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If you want to read the distance (in decimal), you can use the trip odometer A or B. Just press the bottom to change to trip A or B then press and hold for few second to reset.
I hope that will help you.
I personally own an FEH, but I've always thought that it would be much better to put an I4 in the HH.
Supposition only ... the new 2.5L ( 2AR ) engine will debut next month in the RAV, then migrate to the Camry early in 2009. This will eventually replace the current 2.4L 2AZ across the entire lineup. It's this 2.5L that I think will be linked to the NextGen HSD in the Camry and Venza hybrids when they are actually introduced.
Also, when should you use Econ mode vs. EV mode?
Thanks!
Janine
As for EV: I get the sense it is for parking ramps and places where one wants to avoid exhaust and/or noise. It is not clear that EV mode is the most efficient, though it certainly seems like it at the time. But EV never lasts very long: a couple of 100 yards only in that once one passes 20 mph it quits.
I do not think that cause by leaving cap open and drive a few blocks. Just my 2 cents.
I have been trying to find information on the upcoming 2010 Highlander hybrid. One blog claimed that it would have the 4-cylinder engine, but other blogs were saying the V6 would stay.
Does anyone have links to recent 2010 spec information and an expected release date?
Thanks.
While the EPA numbers for the HH are not sexy as other hybrids like the Prius and new Fusion hybrid they are very very significant!!! :surprise: Consider.
Moving from an ICE 4c Camry which averages 25 mpg ( EPA ) to the TCH which averages 34 mpg ( EPA ) saves our nation 11.6 gal per 1000 mi driven.
Moving from an ICE V6 Highlander 4WD which averages 19 mpg ( EPA ) to the HH which averages 26 mpg ( EPA ) saves our nation 14.1 gal per 1000 mi driven!!
For the national benefit, security and economy, it's much better to have drivers move out of their ICE-only Highlanders into HH's. This doesn't address value at all because value is something very subjective to discuss.
So what kind / brand of 4wd SUV are you comparing it to that does impress you? I find 25+ mpg pretty impressive for a large comfortable SUV with towing abilities. Don't know what else can really compete with it. Maybe I'm easier to impress. Maybe I'm comparing it to the 14.5 mpg my Expedition gets
Well, except for towing, the Ford Escape Hybrid is pretty good. I get about 30 in town and on the road, and the AWD is mechanical, not electric.
I like the mechanical AWD in the Escape but I needed to tow 3500 lbs. Also the second row seating in the Escape is terrible in comparison to the HH.
Your dealer can tell you for certain.
---quote---
--Towing Prep Package - Includes trailer prewiring and transmission oil cooler.
--Standard on: Highlander Hybrid AND Highlander Hybrid Limited. (Then it refers to note #5)
Note #5: Towing Prep Package - Includes upgraded radiator, transmission oil cooler, 130-amp alternator and trailer prewiring; 4-cylinder models add: 3000-lb. towing capacity, (my note: of course, the 06 Hybrid only had a V6 engine so 4-cyl remark does not apply.) engine oil cooler, power-steering oil cooler and 120-watt fan coupling; V6 models add 3500-lb. towing capacity and 160-watt fan coupling.
---unquote---
Page 319 of Owner's Manual for all 2006 Highlanders:
---quote---
Towing capacity:
Without towing package: 2000 lb.
With towing package: 3500 lb.
(My note: not sure how you handle the "add 3500-lb towing capacity" from the "brochure"???
Final note: As you probably know, the actual towing bar and attachment were not supplied with the new car as standard equipment.
Hope this helps.
Thanks!
Thanks!
Nancy
Probably - I think you can tell from the VIN number sequence. You should remember that the Highlander is basically a passenger car dressed up as an SUV and the HH is has much less capabilities because the AWDi (read - IDIOT) transmission has no real mechanical connection between the pistons and the wheels and will just turn off when slightly taxed.
I have a 2006 HH with towing package and a 3,200 boat/trailer and I would not tow it any further than the local boat ramp (6 miles). Beside the brakes on the H are only passenger car brakes and the OEM tire are really poor.
I do some times tow a smaller, lightweight fishing boat with some problems. It will hardly make it up long grades and gets stuck on steep boat ramps. On one ramp, after we put the boat in the water, I could not pull the empty trailer out of the water, so we we unhitched the trailer, pulled the car up, and then my buddy and I pulled the trailer up by hand!. We had to drive the boat 15 miles down to a flatter ramp so we could pull the boat out of the water. (My friend was so pissed that we lost over an hour of fishing time, so he now always drives his Explorer, which has no problems.)
Anyway, I bought the HH is to tow, so tow I am going to do. I will be towing a pontoon boat/trailer with a wet weight of about 3,000 lbs. I plan on leaving the boat on the trailer at the marina so will only be towing to/from home (about 10 miles one-way) a few times a year. Hopefully it will be able to pull the boat out of the water without too much trouble.
Yes, and that's what allows it to be a quite unique FULL-TIME F/awd system. Both front and rear drives can be "on" full time since there is no issue of drive line windup.
Only 75HP at the rear is the "real" limitation.
I drove 377 miles and the consumption display indicated I had 12 miles left. The fuel light was on.
Mpg since refuel on the small display said 25.2.
All I could coax into the tank was 15.2 gallons of gas.
Does the tank really hold 17.2 gallons? If so, does that mean I had two gallons left, and could have driven 50 miles, instead of 12?
When the fuel light comes on, how much is in 'reserve'?
Thank You
When the fuel light comes on, how much is in 'reserve'?"
I believe the answers are: 1.approximately 17.2 gallons. 2. Approximately.
3. Probably not for the following reasons: a.the mpg reading is not very accurate (it can be off, in my experience, by up to 2 mpg); b. Not all of the 2 gal. is available, e.g. if you are on a slope the gas may not reach the pickup for the fuel pump. 4. My experience is that there is 2.5 to 3 gal. in reserve when the light comes on. :confuse:
The AWD is electric only, and when the motors get hot - no more AWD. This is not true of a mechanical AWD system.
WRONG.
Almost all modern day mechanical implementations of F/awd, most certainly those that are "pre-emptive(***)", have some method of detecting drive train overstressing resulting from a sustained, sustaining requirement for rear drive engagement.
Even my '01 F/awd RX300 has an ATF overheat sensor and warning indicator.
The current Ford Escape and Escape hybrid have a temperature sensor/warning indicator in the rear clutch drive engagement system as does the Honda/Acura SH-AWD system.
Since there is no easy way to detect impending wheelspin/slip the engineers have chosen to go the "predictive" route to help alleviate the horrid safety record of FWD systems. The first step, converting to purely reactive (VC, TC.) F/awd systems having now failed to improve the safety factor enough.
So, when would you "predict" that the probability of front torque biased F/awd systems would be most likely to develop wheelspin/slip.
1) Accelerating, low speed acceleration...?
Yes. Some modern day F/awd vehicles (Cadillac SRX, etc.) actually derate the engine via DBW if the driver asks for HARD acceleration in a lower gear range.
2) Turning, turning tightly, resulting in centrifical forces on the front exceeding the tires' traction coefficent.
3) Accelerating into a turn, TIGHT turn.
So these new pre-emptive F/awd systems MUST ignore the long standing edict AGAINST engagement of both front and rear drives on a tractive surface.
So, either something has to "give"(***), or YOU have to pull over and stop and wait for these drive line components to cool back down.
*** In Ford's case the PTO/PTU, for the MDX, the transaxle.
Most vehicles, inclusive of the HL, have a TC "OFF" function switch so full use of the ONE-WHEEL drive system can be made if one is "STUCK".
Toyota now has a more adequate F/awd system. Introduced on the Venza and now propagated to the Sienna and RX350 I had fully expected it to have been made available on the 2011 HL but for some unknown reason it is not.
So, with INDEPENDENT front and rear DRIVE capability the HH very definitely has the POTENTIAL for having a rather STELLAR F/awd system in comparison to the HH or even the new F/awd system in the Venza, Sienna, and RX350.
But....BIG BUT..!!
SAFETY comes first...
Loss of traction on the front wheels of a vehicle must be, IS, considered a very serious matter and therefore must be corrected, addressed, URGENTLY. So while at first glance the most appropriate action once front wheelspin/s/lip is detected would be to switch, apportion, more drive torque to the rear while lessening the drive torque to the front, the matter of safety intervenes.
It is of the utmost importance, OVER-RIDING importance, that traction be quickly returned, regained, at/on the front wheels, otherwise the potential for an injury accident resulting from subsequent loss of directional control is simply TOO great.
So almost all F/awd reactive systems, if not ALL F/awd systems, inclusive of PRE-EMPTIVE F/awd systems, will INSTANTLY, FIRST, dethrottle the engine while simultaneously braking the (front, presumptive) slipping/spinning wheels.
So, would the HH have a fully functional F/awd system..??
Probably NOT, for safeties sake.
Have a look at a few of the R/awd systems, or even a RWD/4WD system if you truly need "awd" wintertime on-road driving capability.
In our case, we had to find these things out the hard way and wound up backing out of a deal because we didn't feel the dealer's salesman was being up front about why it initially appeared that we couldn't get the Shoreline Blue that we wanted.
Apologies in advance if this is posted in the wrong place.
Just purchased a 2009 Highlander Hybrid Limited with 40K at a Toyota dealer. It is a certified pre-owned which comes with the comprehensive 12month/12000 warranty.
I was highly encouraged by the finance salesman to purchase the additional Extra Care (platinum) comprehensive package which extends my comprehensive warranty until 100,000 miles. I ultimately did purchase the additional protection for $1200.00 but now am having second thoughts. Since I have 30 days to cancel, I wanted to get some additional information before I make any decisions.
Question is: with Toyota's reliability, is there any true value in purchasing the additional protection on a certified pre-owned. Your experiences and knowledge is greatly appreciated.
WRONG.
Almost all modern day mechanical implementations of F/awd, most certainly those that are "pre-emptive(***)", have some method of detecting drive train overstressing resulting from a sustained, sustaining requirement for rear drive engagement.
Even my '01 F/awd RX300 has an ATF overheat sensor and warning indicator. "
I suppose I should have said that it won't overheat as quickly as putting an electric motor on the rear wheels. But I don't find any such temperature warnings in my 2008 FEH owner's manual. And note that the hybrid transmission is different from a normal transmission. I should think that if there were an "ATF overheat indicator" in the FEH, it would have been in the manual.
Of course, I actually own an AWD hybrid, rather than attempt to run around various forums and spout information.