Got a Quick, Technical Question?

catam · March 2004

I have a 96 Chev 1 ton 4x4 dually with 7.4L/454 cid engine and an auto tranny. The truck came with the tow pkg, with aux oil and tranny cooler.
Last summer while towing my rather light boat (4500#) around the mountains of Utah both the engine and tranny would heat up to the 215-225 range on long uphill climbs. I changed the thermostat thinking that it may not be opening completely, this did not fix the prob.
The truck now has a small coolant leak, I don't know where, but I will find and fix.
I need some ideas about how to improve overall cooling of engine afterwards to avoid future probs.
My current line of thinking is to put a lower temp thermostat in, and change to a dual electric fan setup on the back of the radiator and eliminate the stock pulley driven fan.
Is this going to help or make no difference?
Thanks for any advice. Chris.

Mr_Shiftright · March 2004

That temperature isn't really a grave concern, since your cooling system is under pressure and hence the boiling point is raised. It isn't 212 anymore, more like 240 or even higher. Also your engine is working harder at altitude.

An electric cooling fan might help if your truck is bogging down a bit on speed as it goes uphill, that's possible, because of reduced air flow across the radiator. I'm not sure though on your truck if you can disconnect the drive pulley for the fan belt without disconnecting other functions as well.

You might consider a bigger and better trans cooler, also check your tire pressure carefully!

Last of all, it could be time to flush out or replace that radiator. Eight years can accumulate a lot of crud. In fact, that's the first thing I'd do, have the radiator flow-tested.

catam · March 2004

What exactly is involved in a flow test. How much should I expect to pay??
My thinking on the electric fans is the same as yours. There are some mountain passes that I travel that are very steep with multiple switchbacks, vehicle speed going up or down is limited to 30 mph or less, thus less air going across the radiator.
As far as the pulley driven fan, I should be able to disconnect the fan from the pulley, the pulley must remain driven as it also drives the water pump, and its a serp. belt system anyway.
If my radiator is bad, from the flow test, I think I might upgrade it. When doing some research I saw some aftermarket radiators that promise 20 degree lower temps. Anyone know if these really work better or not? I only want to buy something that is really going do work, especially at the prices they were asking, >$600.00 for a radiator.

burdawg · March 2004

Those temps don't sound out of line for the type of use your describing. My 5.7L Suburban performs in about the same way under those conditions, and I upgraded the radiator to a heavy duty 4 row already. Plus a dually is a heavier vehicle to start with, and the 7.4L runs hotter also.
I agree with shifty that a good course of action is to get the radiator checked. I'm not sure but in 96 was the radiator an aluminum core with plastic tanks? If so, consider replacing it with a good aftermarket all metal radiator. If the tanks seals aren't already leaking then their on borrowed time.
Replacing the clutch driven fan with electric fans is a viable change, and kits already exist to do it, but the I think the difference may be negligible for your situation.

swschrad · March 2004

the 3M website seems to be promoting tape solutions these days (automotive attachment).

here's surface prep matrix for better adhesion

http://cms.3m.com/cms/US/en/2-167/cluRlFW/view.jhtml

and weatherstrip attachment tapes matrix

http://cms.3m.com/cms/US/en/2-167/cluReFX/view.jhtml

in 3M marine products, they do have a line of citrus-based adhesive removers

http://products3.3m.com/catalog/us/en001/auto_marine_aero/marine/- node_BZFJVSQS17be/root_GST1T4S9TCgv/vroot_GS4JK4Y166ge/gvel_QH8HT- 14PGTgl/theme_us_marine_3_0/command_AbcPageHandler/output_html

and some tube adhesives that are probably the same stuff that I used to see for automotive products

http://products3.3m.com/catalog/us/en001/auto_marine_aero/marine/- node_GS64SJM58Dbe/root_GST1T4S9TCgv/vroot_GS4JK4Y166ge/gvel_QH8HT- 14PGTgl/theme_us_marine_3_0/command_AbcPageHandler/output_html

not as easy to navigate this site as it was two years ago, but the products are still basically there. your better body shops should have or can get in what you're needing, or order off their web site.

yes, there are other companies in the business. these guys are local and I keep up with 'em.

Mr_Shiftright · March 2004

thanks! That's a good suggestion about a body shop, I'm going to drop in today and see what they say. I'm sure this is something they deal with all the time. I'd hate to screw it up.

tjdepere2004 · March 2004

How does one determine the low pressure side [suction]on the air conditioning unit? Is there marking on the caps? Is one of the pipes larger than the other? Products are Ford and Toyota units. thanks

alcan · March 2004

Low side is smaller diameter. If the caps are color coded, high side is red and low side is blue to match the hoses on recovery equipment.

candlemaker2 · March 2004

We have a 2003 Caravan that we bought new Nov. 29/03. In January I noticed red fluid leaking and had the van towed to the nearest dealership. They repaired a ruptured transmission cooling line and found a loose connection where it goes into the radiator. I asked the service dept. if this could cause damage to my transmission and was told NO WAY.
A few times since then, when we start the van, all of the gear shift indicators light up. The van went in for a leak in the power steering lines in February and I asked them to check this too. They said there were no codes.
Yesterday I was driving and the road was blocked so I had to back up. Well the thing would not go into reverse. I am wondering if there was damage caused by low fluid. Any info would be greatly appreciated. There are less than 4000 km on the van and we are ready to park it and refuse to make payments. Thanks

bolivar · March 2004

Im inclined to think there could have been damage due to the first leak.

What does the owners manual say about 'all the gear shift indicators light up'. This could be an error condition being reported.

In any case, the vehicle is 4 months old and 4,000km milage.

Let them rebuild the transmission under warranty. I would request a loaner to drive. Discuss this with management at the dealership.

driftracer · March 2004

Yes, there could be damage, and yes, the models are known for leaking cooler lines. Any time you have a significant fluid loss, you can do some damage.

Do what bolivar said - go talk with the service manager - make sure they check transmission pressure, do a thorough road test - not just drive it around the parking lot and hook up the diag tool.

So many technicians today check for trouble codes, and if there are none, they assume there's nothing wrong. There are many things that can be wrong with a transmission (or engine) that a few sensors won't tattle on.

candlemaker2 · March 2004

Thanks for the post. First off, they are saying there is nothing wrong. I told them about the indicators lighting up and was told it was the computer doing it's check. They also insist there was NO damage due to the fluid leak. We have been told that until they can duplicate a problem , they can't fix it. Of course now it drives fine. It will be when I am away from home again and get stranded.

0patience · March 2004

Did they document it in writing?
If not, make sure they do. That way, when it happens, you have proof of an existing problem.

Mr_Shiftright · March 2004

When you say "wouldn't go into reverse" do you mean the lever couldn't go into the reverse position or that you got it into reverse but it wouldn't back up?

abilene · March 2004

I have a 1995 Chevy Lumina APV and I've been having problems with the windshield wipers for well over a year now. Sometimes when you turn on the wipers in either one of the intermittent modes or on the low setting, the wipers won't work, or they will stop after a while (no obvious patter as to how long), or they will cut in and out. I've seen the term "wiper control board" but I can't find anything about it related to this vehicle. How can I fix this problem? It gets a little scary driving down the road with no wipers if they decide to quit on me. Thanks for your help!

driftracer · March 2004

wiper circuit board - these go bad in many GM vehicles.

swschrad · March 2004

there is a recall on those parts for some years, and you may be covered. basically, they had some pins on the boards that came off the solder, and when that happens, you can't power the thing. so it won't work. being wipers, it's a safety issue, and thus the recall came about. GM shrugged shoulders for several years before the recall.

check on line here at edmunds and see if you're in the money, then print a copy and head on over to your dealer.

lmacmil · March 2004

Recently had my cooling system (2000 Olds Intrigue) flushed and refilled at the dealer. Several times since, the low coolant indicator has come on. Sometimes it goes off after driving 3-4 miles. Today it stayed on during my entire trip to work (8 miles). Doesn't come on every time, maybe once in 4 or 5 starts. The coolant level cold is just slightly below the min level in the overflow tank. Could that cause the low coolant light to activate?

Mr_Shiftright · March 2004

Maybe air in the system. Some cooling systems absolutely require a bleeding procedure as you add coolant; otherwise, it could just be a freaky sensor.

I'm not sure about the minimum coolant level because I can't recall where the sensor is on your car. If it's plugged into your reserve tank, that might be your answer.

Anyway, I always tell people to diagnose "from the simple to the complex". Pick the easiest thing first (sensor is tripped due to level in coolant tank), to more complex (bad sensor) to more complex (system not bled properly).

tropicalmonte · March 2004

97 Cavalier LS Convertible 2.4L 115k
Low-beam headlamps will not turn on / Daytime running lights stay on til hi-beams are turned on ... replaced low-beam lamps (they were'nt burned out though) checked fuses they're okay too ... seems that when I turn on hi-beams, low-beams WILL illuminate "in-between clicks" but when I let go of control arm, they go off ? They sometimes come on briefly when I use left turn signal too. Daytime running lights work fine when hi-beams are off and when headlamps are turned to the off position ... I have an aftermarket (Bulldog brand)alarm that was installed prior to my ownership that has never been operable and may be the root of previous electrical "gremlins" i.e. parking lights staying on after car is turned off, hazards blinking for no apparent reason even when car is parked with no keys in it. Could this low-beam failure be a short in the turn signal arm or a hidden fuse that is blown?

3745 · March 2004

Did your side terminal battery ever leak? If so, check under the battery tray for acid damaged wires.

swschrad · March 2004

if it's failed, that also would be the cause of your issues. it could also be the culprit behind the parking lights.

internal wiring around the botched alarm install could also do it. IMHO outside alarm systems that aren't plug compatible with the OEM wiring are the devil's spawn, and often lead to all sort, manner, and kind of electrical nonsense. it IS possible for Scotch-Taps to cut the wire they are bridging to a one-ended wire if the wrong one is chosen, or installed crooked.

glenn43 · March 2004

Hello all. I own an 87 Nissan 200SX 4cyl. It's got around 135K miles logged on it. Mostly highy driving. Lately, I've been noticing a gasoline odor coming from the engine compartment. I've seached high and low and found no signs of fuel leakage anywhere. So far, I've changed my fuel filter, added a can of BG44K fuel additive and replaced the small fiber filter inside of my carbon cannister, but still no luck. Haven't found any leaking or diconnected hoses anywhere. My EGR valve and carbon cannister are original (never been replaced). Any suggestions would greatly appreciated. Thanks.

swschrad · March 2004

OK, I have four sensors in my 2000 exploder's "parking aid" system. the system has been stuck outta luck for several weeks now, comes up with the disabled light as soon as the tranny hits reverse, and can't get it out. occasionally get a very sick squeak out of the machine.

the likeliest issue should be the four IR transmit-receive sensors that twist-lock into ports on the back bumper. pulled one to eyeball it... the connector is clean and dry, there are no hits on the sensor itself. these things are almost certainly one or more IR LED light emitters and a PIN photodiode as a sensor, and almost certainly work on a doppler effect similar to sonar with the LEDs pulsed, and delay measured from the photodiodes (I built an ultrasonic system similar but analog in junior high back in the germanium transistor days.)

the wiring diagrams are not real instructive on which lead does what coming out of the parking aid computer in the rear inside fender panel. I'm not likely to suspect the computer, especially at a reported $200 or so, because it stays tight, dry, and is not subject to wide and fast temperature swings.

anybody have any good ideas on troubleshooting the pig, other than taking all the sensors out and using one new one to qualify wires and then using that to qualify the four sensors? or is the module going to go into barf mode again if any of the four sensors is not receiving pulses? I should be able to use a Radio Shack "TV remote tester" card to see if there is light from the IR LEDs, it's the detector section I'm a little curious about.

I did win an eBay bid for a sensor, so I should have one with the scratch shield still on its face coming in a few days, at half the dealer cost of about $80. I strongly suspect the seller had their issues chasing a similar bug

the "parking aid" system is probably better known as backup alert, lets you know if you're about to run into anything.

swschrad · March 2004

the EGR shouldn't have anything to do with a gasoline odor, there's a whole engine between the systems

I have got to believe it's a fuel leak that needs to be chased, but not familiar with nissan engine compartments. places I'd be chasing with a penlight and an angled mirror to look for drips or sprays before they hit the engine and vaporize are all connections in the fuel system, the hoses next to them, any pressure regulators that may be at the fuel rail, the Schrader valve pressure test port, or the piece of hose going to the EVAP canister.

there might be an injector-to-rail seal issue that would be hard to find... gently flowing water across the fuel rail from a hose that kills the odor might be a good way to find that. and that is an urgent (and potentially costly) repair. mopar had some o-ring seal issues on the fuel rail on caravans a few years back that was recalled, which is what tickled my memory.

at any rate, a fuel-odor issue needs to be chased quickly. good luck with it.

bolivar · March 2004

Wild guess - the 'carbon cannistor', most especially some of it's vacumn control valves. These could be built into the top of the canistor, or somewhere upstream of it on a vacumn line. A bad valve could be letting the canistor get over-saturated with gasoline (it never goes into the mode where the gasoline is pulled out of the canister) and this is back leaking into the intake and then out where you can smell it.

jhetfieldmetal · March 2004

last year around this time i inherited a 93 villager from my parents (it had about 90,000 miles at the time), the car is in mint condition, it had a oil change every 3,000 miles, new tires, new timeing belt, new brakes, tune up around 80,000. as time went on my gas mileage dramticly decreased, im now getting around 12-13 miles a gallon city wise. I've tried gas cleaners, putting premium into the car, cleaning the air filter frequently but nothing has worked. i think it could be the injectors but im not sure. has anyone had this problem and can anyone provide helpful tips on improving my gas mileage?

swschrad · March 2004

90 thousand miles in which the plug gap is probably, based on the way my GF's plugs came out, 2-1/2 times the recommended gap? lousy mileage, won't start when it's cold, occasionally maybe even seems to idle rough?

nah, I got no clue here. can't see a pattern

if plugs were changed at 80,000, then test the wires and start looking for things like a munged fuel filter, low rail pressure, etc.

pull one of the plugs and check its gap, check for the platinum buttons. if no buttons and the gap is over .060, they weren't done. replace 'em.

-0-

you can't successfully clean a paper air filter, they need to be replaced.

other possibilities include the EGR valve is charcoalled up and needs cleaning or replacement, the MAF airflow sensor is dirty or goofy, low or intermittent fuel pressure (when was the filter changed last? they're only good for 45,000 or so miles.), nutty 02 sensors (don't always set a code in the computer), etc.

I would concentrate, of course, on the cheapest and most likely parts to fail first (hot, exhaust, etc) and go from there. because there isn't much computer on the 93s to indicate where to look, pressure test the fuel manifold, do a DVM check on DC volts across the 02 sensors when warmed up, insure all vacuum hoses are clean, tight, and not leaking or cracked, etc. I would expect voltage across any of the 02 sensors to swing through a half volt nominal voltage and have ends around 0.2 and 0.8 volts, someplace like that. if the voltage on the sensor wires (not the heater wires) is stuck at one end or the other, suspect idenfitied. if the sensor is tracking properly, you might not see anything other than a bouncing voltage something close to a half volt. depends on the refresh timing on the DVM. engine-side sensor might be expected to cross the half-volt mark multiple times a second, while a cat-side sensor will be a LOT slower.

had an 02 go lazy on my 90 ranger and it wouldn't run after the engine started warming up from the 20 below air temperature.

a coolant sensor that is stuck cold can also push the computer into limp mode and cause horrid mileage and stumble issues, too.

Mr_Shiftright · March 2004

First thing, check your tire pressure and inflate to recommended maximum. Let us know what you find.

protegextwo · April 2004

Question #1-
A decient comprehensive Automatic Transmission Service includes?
1.) Drain Fluid and Discard
2.) Remove Pan
3.) Clean and Inspect Filter
4.) Refill Fluid with Fresh Fluid

-yes, ???

Question #2-
The Owners Manual on my wife's 2004 Pontiac Vibe states, "Check the automatic transaxle fluid every 15,000 miles. Change automatic transaxle fluid every 60,000 miles...."

-Does this sound reasonable and prudent?

Question #3-
My new Car Dealer's Service Department recommends the " Automatic transmission flush with BG Quick Clean and Conditioner" at the 15,000 mile service and the "Automatic transmission filter service with BG trans conditioner" at the 30,000 mile service. What do you folks think? This is a Pontiac-GM Dealer in Lancaster, PA.

-Will this extra service increase the life of the tranny?

Respectfully,
Larry Kline

driftracer · April 2004

reasonable and prudent, and accurate.

Question #3 - totally useless, profit generating BS. Definitely NOT recommended by the manufacturer.

If it's not in your manual, don't do it - same with engine oil "flushes" - they cause more problems than they help.

protegextwo · April 2004

Thanks Jim, I was pretty sure of the answer. I appreciate your feedback! However, I just thought 30,000 mile automatic transmission service was kind of a industry norm. Extending the auto tranny service till 60,000 miles is new to me. Plus, the service team at Jones Pontiac in Lancaster, PA. seemed straightforward enough, nevertheless; I have never heard of a 2 part automatic transmission service (Automatic Transmission Flush with "BG Quick Clean and Conditioner" at the 15,000 mile service and the Automatic Transmission "Filter service with BG trans conditioner" at the 30,000 mile service)????

Repectfuly,
Larry

driftracer · April 2004

flush, has been around for a few years and is a great profit center for dealerships and private shops.

The problem is that new cars (under 80k miles) don't need them, and older cars can have major problems after one of these operations. The engine flush, for instance, can break loose all kinds of gunk that gets trapped in the oil pomp screen and has been known to cause engine failure.

So much for the preventive maintenance nature of that operation....

The "conditioners" are simply a profit add-on - if they were really necessary, the manufacturer would recommend or mandate them in your manual. There's a lot of fluff in the typical dealership service department's major service menu. If it's on the manufacturer's list (not the dealers), then you should have it done.

The frequency of transmission servive varies by manufacturer and by severity of service. My PT GT, for instance, does not require a transmission maintenance at all if you drive it lightly. The turbo version, on one in more sever service, requires a service every 48k miles.

Typically, once every two years keeps me sleeping at night, knowing I'm not neglecting my ride.

imidazol97 · April 2004

I now believe that trans service, an oil change, should be done at 36 K or 3 years. I did not change my LeSabre until 65K. My service manager said I should have changed it sooner to keep the additives fresh; they deteriorate with age as well as with mileage and temperature of unit while in use. He felt it had 'sludge' a little before I changed it.

The trans had developed a TCC lockup control valve wear problem that's in some TH65 transmissions by 75K.

If you can drop the pan and refill it yourself at 36K that's ideal. I don't think I would change the filter until 72K unless there is a lot of particle goop in the bottom of the pan. The gasket on GM TH65 is rubber and reuseable, so there's no need to purchase a gasket even to do an oil change.

I have an 03 LeSabre. IT will be changed at 36K, but no filter.

A do-it-yourself change of engine or transmission fluids is a cheap insurance rather than running more miles than running longer up to manufacturer's maximums potentially with dirty/weak fluids.

driftracer · April 2004

car, and most fluids are also cheap. It kills me when somone tries to consistently get an extra couple thousand miles out of a $19.95 oil change. The financial mistake made by doing this is hundreds of times more costly than the few dollars extra you put out by changing your oil on time.

I disagree on the transmission filter issue, though. The filter can trap particles that can become dislodge from the filter and recirculate through your transmission. To me, that's as bad, and as financially foolish, as changing your oil but not springing for a $3 filter. Transmission kits are usually less than $20 and since it's only done once every two years or so, spend the money and sleep better.

imidazol97 · April 2004

I understand your point. I didn't realize particles could go through the filter. I thought it has a paper element for my TH65E. I didn't cut one of the old ones in half to see.

It's a 20$ filter and gasket set for my car. I don't think the filter is available separately. Maybe you can tell me that it is. NAPA?

Since the rubber gasket is reuseable, I changed my fluid every 5K after the alleged gunking at 75K. Two more fluid changes without filter. That freshened up the additives in all the fluid (only 60% at most gets replaced on a drain and fill).
Now I'm about due for another at 105K. If I can buy a filter, I'd do that.

driftracer · April 2004

it seems they thrown in a gasket - many of the transmission filters are cork and require replacement every time - consider yourself lucky with the rubber gasket.

It's not a matter of the particles going through the filter, it's a matter of the filter trapping junk, then letting it go again - easy enough to do with new fluid and the swishing around that the fluid does.

I just want to eliminate all possibility of metal fragments cruising around in the fluid, looking for a bearing surface to mess up.

pdias · April 2004

I have changed th oil for the gearbox due to oil leak through the gasket. Since then the gear are not shifting, just running in the drive mode, what is the problem what can be done, How can i check the oil level.SLK 230 covertible 1999 model

imidazol97 · April 2004

At 65K and 3.5 years, the fluid still looked new red and smelled like fresh Dextron but with an aged smell not burned. I just didn't see the need to change earlier, but I didn't want to go to the recommended 100K change time.

But my service manager sounded like shellacing could occur after additives are used up. He liked my theory of using new fluid to redissolve some shellac or gunk (if any occurred), but draining old which has dissolved some and adding new a couple of times. It did improve the shift quality, but the TCC lockup is still leaking past the sliding piston. I'm going to check into getting it repaired cheaply if I can. I want to keep the car.

driftracer · April 2004

change fluids rapidly a few times makes sense.

I've done that on the older used cars I've bought, especially the two that we autocross.

jlflemmons · April 2004

I figure that for the hassle of draining the fluid, cleaning the pan, cleaning up the spilled oil, burning my arm on the exhaust pipe, yada yada, changing the filter is not that much trouble. These 30K recommended changes are a joke unless you are pulling heavy horsepower,or trailer, or both. I have seen a GM dealership that recommended servicing EVERY 15K. Talk about overkill. People need to know that with the transmission, unlike engine oil, you are not dealing with combustion by-products. Want to help your tranny in hot climates? Install an external fluid cooler. Gives you more protection than that 30k service will.

driftracer · April 2004

services are a joke.

alcan · April 2004

It's a 4T65-E transaxle, there is no TH65. Here's the fix for a worn TCC regulator valve bore:

http://www.transmissionspecialty.com/parts/parts/84754-34k.htm

P.S. There's no "t" in Dexron.

0patience · April 2004

protegextwo,
Question 1: Yes
Question 2: Yes
Question 3: NO!

crankshaft · April 2004

i cannot find the ignition module on my 91 mercury cougar V6.it is not on the distributor.i looked on the fender wells but no luck.

protegextwo · April 2004

Thank you Mr. Murray for responding to my questions pertaining to transmission service on our new 2004 Pontiac Vibe. I respect your opinion and appreciate your response.

-Larry

0patience · April 2004

protegextwo,
Your welcome, but I was just echoing the responses before me.
Seroiusly though, the flushes have their place, but realistically, if your transmission needs the flush, then the damage has already been done and flushing it is only going to make things worse.
Regular servicing is the way to extend the life of your transmission.

lordvader2000 · April 2004

Does anyone have an answer?

I have a 2000 Bonneville SLE. Each and every time it rains or snows, the car takes a good 3 seconds to begin stopping. (Very scary in an emergency stop). However, after they "warm" up (or dry out), they have no issues stopping. If I drive for about 10 minutes, they again take a good 3 seconds to begin stopping. Though when it is dry out, there are no problems.

The problem seemed to be getting worse so I took the car into the shop and had the brakes completely redone -- all pads and rotors completely replaced. The dealer said they had a lot of glazing, but otherwise they couldn't see anything. Well, the problem is better, but it is still there.

When it rains or snows, it now takes only a good full second to begin stopping. There has been a previous posting on this #546 with the same problem description. The answer to that posting stated that it was probably just due to very heavy rain. However in the exact same weather, this does not happen in my other car. In fact, it doesn't have to be raining very hard at all for this problem to occur. This seems to be an issue with this car only.

Does anyone know of a solution?

tuna · April 2004

I bought a civic EX 5 speed on 1/01. 33,000 miles later, i've recently encountered this puzzling problem. I will hear a click - click noise coming from the somewhere in the glove compartment area. The warning lights on the dash come on with the noise and the car loses power while driving almost stalling the engine. It happens at least 5 times a day everyday. I have taken it back to the dealership. They said they drove it and it hasn't acted up so they can't find the problem. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.

gatesay · April 2004

Hello, I'm looking for some advice on correcting the valvetrain noise on my 2.2L Accord. I just replaced the head with a rebuild one, adjusted all the tapets accourding to spec, set the timing gears to the proper spots. The car starts fine but makes a lot of valve noise and has very little power when test drove.
Any ideas?

I was wondering about setting the timing from the distrubiture but can't seem for figure out how that can be done since only two of the mounts are sloted and the center hole in the head where the cam drives the dist is tight with the o-ring seal (two fixed points, the fixed hole mount and the dist drive)?

Thank you,
Gatesay

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