Got a Quick, Technical Question?

gatesay · April 2004

Ok, Stupid me, I figured out why the noisy valvetrain. My feeler gauge was ASE not mm. Now that I have set them to the proper mm it is much quiter.

I still can't figure out the distribture thing. Only two of the three mounts are slotted, with the center drive hold fitting tight with a o-ring seal, how the heck would you be able to turn the thing.
I tried anyway, but of course could only bump it a fraction either way. ????

nybill38 · April 2004

Hi

I have a 1990 Mitsubishi Sigma 3.0 V6. I just got it and have recently changed fluids, anti freeze, oil and transmission fluid. I'm noticing a leak that appears to be coming from the back side of the engine towards the top on the left side just above the tranny...it appears to be oil based on color...I recently had the brake fluid changed also but don't think this is what it is. Any idea's of where this could be coming from and how to correct it.

Thanks
Bill

Mr_Shiftright · April 2004

You could check the back of the valve cover, clean it up and then see after running the engine. Or there could be a sensor back there, not sure. Brake fluid has a distinct smell and will dry up your skin if you touch it.

ttdang123 · April 2004

Hi

I have a 1999 ML430. My eng check light came on. I read the obd2 code as P0170 and P0173. I know what these are BUT not how to fix them. Anyone with ideas of what are the things that I should be checking for would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance

driftracer · April 2004

0patience · April 2004

ttdang123,
P0170 (right bank)& P0173 (left bank) are fuel trim codes.
Check for vacuum leaks, air intake leaks (air cleaner tube), incorrect fuel pressure, bad fuel pressure regulator or faulty injectors.

Since both banks are affected, I would be inclined to think you have an intake leak.

ttdang123 · April 2004

Hi

Thanks - I will check them out. It sounded expensive

uaf · April 2004

A few days ago the horn on my 2001 Nissan Sentra just went dead (no other problems with electronics).....would anyone happen to know how I can fix this (or at least take a look at things) without taking my car to the dealership and being bled through the nose??

0patience · April 2004

Pretty likely you are goind to have to go to the dealer.
It may be a problem with the clockspring, which is part of the airbag system and something that should be done by a reputable shop.
But, it may also be the horn relay. The horn relay is in the Relay box, mounted in the engine compartment on the passenger side.
If you are standing on the passenger side, the horn relay will be the second one from the left. It should be marked E49.

jlflemmons · April 2004

find a used horn, plug it in and see if it works. Some designs will let water splash into the horn bell and ruin the horn. My '00 GMC Sierra went through three horns in three years. Each time the horn was full of water and shorted out. The bell of the horn should face down and in a location that water from the front wheels cannot routinely splash into it.

swschrad · April 2004

you should be able to hook a light socket with bulb to ground and the horn's push-on connector, and see if it lights from inside when you push the button. lights, then replace the horn. doesn't light, check the fuse and the relay. still doesn't work, you are in for a clockspring wiring harness repair under the steering wheel.

azrider · April 2004

I recently developed a slight engine miss on my 96 (SFI 350) Tahoe. At first it only occured when under heavy load (ac cycling, accelerating while in OD etc.) Lately it has been happening more frequently under less strenuous loads and at idle (though only slight when idling). I'm not getting a service engine light. I tried replacing the PCV and fuel filter, that didn't help. I did notice ther was no pressure in the line when I changed out the filter. My next steps I think are to rpessure check the line to eliminate the pum as the problem, then open the distributor and take a peek in there. Anyone dealt with this before and could maybe save me the hassle of process of elimination?

Thanks

jlflemmons · April 2004

Could be a bad plug wire.

swschrad · April 2004

if you don't know when you have replaced your fuel filter, it's a good idea, they should be done every 30 to 50,000 miles now. but a little miss that starts growing screams "plugs" to me. check both the plugs and the wires, replace any that are in need.

azrider · May 2004

145k. Checked the rotor/distributor and took it in for a diagnostic today. They came back with nothing. It's still missing. I just filled up my tank with Costco gas so I'm wondering now if that's the problem. Added some dry gas and octane booster to see if that helps. The diagnostic showed there were no misses on any of the cylinders. Fuel pump pressure checked out okay. I don't know what else to look at, unless I have a bad injector or something.

Mr_Shiftright · May 2004

Often the plug or wire will only misfire under an actual load. Hooking it up to a static machine might not tell you anything.

Possibly you could have a look at the engine running in the dead of night to see if you can spot a spark jumping.

isn't there a spray that might temporarily seal the wires, for test purposes?

swschrad · May 2004

it's called water. mist the HV ignition stuff with a plant sprayer bottle, and you should see blue coronas in the dark when you find HV leakage. BE VERY CAREFUL out there, you don't see the fan and the belts and pulleys moving in the dark. they will see you, and take your arm or fingers if you get in their way.

WD40 is also used to push out water, under distributors for instance, if you kill the engine in a car wash or crossing a creek. it can leave carbon tracking (aka shorts) if HV arcs across it, however, which is why I sorta prefer the plant sprayer of water.

stever · May 2004

My buddy has the engine and transmission completely out of his '86 Nissan 4x4 pickup but can only separate them by about an inch. He's afraid to whale too hard on the aluminum transmission case because he won't be able to get it rebuilt if it cracks.

Is there a trick? Maybe stick the tranny in neutral? He has the Chiltons and a Nissan service manual and is stumped.

Steve, Host

0patience · May 2004

Steve,
Is it an automatic or manual?
I am assuming it is a manual trans.
Did he disconnect the clutch slave cylinder?
Usually the only time they hang up is when the splines of the input shaft have worn.
If he can support the transmission, put it into gear and work the output yoke back and forth while puttin g a little tension on the bellhousing, it may pop loose.

stever · May 2004

Man, you guys are fast in here.

It's a manual and he doesn't think he disconnected the clutch slave cylinder (he'll have to look at the service manual again to figure that out, lol).

Thanks for the help!

Steve, Host

stever · May 2004

The clutch slave wasn't connected to anything. After some sleep engineering he wiggled and jiggled it this morning and worked it loose.

Thanks,

Steve, Host

Mr_Shiftright · May 2004

Sometimes the input shaft gets stuck in the pilot bushing or the clutch plate splines.

Nooooo...you don't want to wail on or pry aluminum castings too much...in desperation, I'd rather see someone come-a-long it out from the tail shaft. Of course, a welding torch and a new bell housing is the ultimate last-ditch effort.

stever · May 2004

I edited twice last night...

wail
whale

Whale on still doesn't look right to me either.

Steve, Host

swschrad · May 2004

as in to load a small boat or two full of rum-soaked sailors who throw explosive-tip harpoons into a whale, then let it pull the ship around a while until it gasps, exhausted and wounded, to the surface.

aka throwing everything you have at a project, related or not, sane or not, wildly chucking stuff at it until you either overwhelm the thing or die trying with a curse on your lips.

that's the origin of "whaling on" something, probably Ahab-inspired. many a project under my shade tree has gone in that direction...

Mr_Shiftright · May 2004

right you are! Whale I'll be....!

Actually, "wail" might also fit obtusely, as in:

"to cry loudly, expressing sorrow"

But that would be more like "wail upon"

Thanks, I've been using it wrong(ly) for years!

stever · May 2004

Me too. I still don't think whale looks right.

Steve, Host

yangtao72 · May 2004

I have a 2003 Honda Accord v6 EX , last week I found there's no display on the dash light(the dash light is below the emergercy button, usually show the clock, audio, air cond information...). Local Honda dealer ordered the parts for me and I need to made appointment to install the part, the name of the part is 'Power base' with part number '713 718-5'. I'm wondering if it's in manufacturer warranty , if it's not, how much will it cost normally?

Mr_Shiftright · May 2004

I looked it up. The evidence is incontrovertible. We had best surrender.

swschrad · May 2004

and if it's under bumper-to-bumper warranty protection yet, it should be covered. "safety" is stuff like you can't see because the wipers don't work, or the speedo is blacked out. non-safety is the radio or a/c display, and that's only covered under the bumper-to-bumper portion of the warranty.

cost of these little computer modules varies widely, part of the cost is whether the car or people would be destroyed if the item fails, and part of the cost is what the market will bear plus five bucks. an interior lighting module will be cheaper than the engine computer because it doesn't really matter, and doesn't have to be designed to work from -60 to +100 Centigrade, and doesn't have to be tested for three months with all conceiveable malfunctions to insure safety.

having said that, the GEM module for ford explorers runs something just over $250, and the backup sensor module runs about $125. if this is ONLY lighting, and honda is being generous, it's probably under $150, but could be higher just because of the "H" on the label.

I'd just call your service guy and ask him if this is a warranty service, and ask for an estimate if it isn't.

imidazol97 · May 2004

I asked about the torque converter clutch lockup control valve and was told about the Sonnax replacement recently. The 4T65E trans in 98 LeSabre has had uneven lockup for 2.5 years and 35K miles. Now has 105K. Car has had an easy life and trans has had 3 fluid changes since 65K.

Now it will slip and grab on initial takeoff. I rarely do a quick takeoff, but my wife had commented about tires slipping last summer. After engine speed is up slightly you can floor it and there is no slip. Only from dead stop and idle and tipping in quickly does it let go and grab.

I had a trans shop drive it last eve. They indicate the slip could be a sprague (spelling) or the clutches. Fluid is red and normal. Is the trans shop making it more serious than the TCC apply control and a pressure controller there that can give trouble and would be replaced when working on the valve body? OR is it time for a full rebuild.

alcan · May 2004

The TCC engagement problem due to a worn regulator bore will not usually cause a launch concern. This is typically caused by an internal friction element slip; clutch, band, or mechanical one way (sprag or roller) clutch. I use the following diagnostic routine:

- Verify fluid level and condition. Note: some aftermarket filters have a slightly smaller neck diameter than original. Use of an aftermarket filter with the original filter seal can cause a pump suction leak, resulting in lower line pressure and friction element slip.
- Retrieve any stored diagnostic trouble codes and service as required.
- Road test with the selector in Manual Low position. If the symptoms are reduced or eliminated, a friction element slip is indicated.
- Verify line pressure. Requires a pressure gauge and scan tool. If below spec, correct as required. If within spec, the transaxle requires disassembly and overhaul.

jjpcat · May 2004

I just bought a 92 5th Ave. The coolant is really dirty and needs to be flushed. However, I can't find the draincock. Chilton's repair manual says it shall be at the bottom of the radiator. But I can't find it since there doesn't seem to have anything over there. Any info? Thanks.

bolivar · May 2004

Just pull off the lower radiator hose. It, and upper hose, and heater hoses also, probably need to be replaced anyway. Cut them off with a single edge razor blade or sharp knife if you are going to replace them. This is the easy and very fast way to do it.

swschrad · May 2004

some radiators don't have a draincock valve, and some have a plug where a drain belongs.

in your case, since you've got a crusty gawdawful mess anyway, you should do a pressurized backflush of the cooling system to get all the gunk out, and for that a hose (typically the heater supply hose) is generally cut and a hose T is installed for water supply. drain is usually through the radiator neck. when you're done and the car is cool, you can get rid of additional crud by taking the lower radiator hose off and draining the water and rust flakes out of there.

probably worthwhile to use a chemical flush compound in the coolant before starting this procedure.

then you replace all evil-looking, soft, cracking, brittle, or deformed hoses... probably replacing the thermostat is a good idea as well... and pour in a good new 50/50 mix of coolant. burp out the air however your maintenance manual says to do it with your particular engine, and you're good to go.

ucanski · May 2004

Our 2000 GMC Jimmy went a puddle 2 feet deep and died. It won't turn over. It clicks and the fan moves about 5 degrees. Battery charged, car is in neutral. Thought starter shorted so I used wrench to try to turn engine - it won't turn. Took out spark plug - it was dry. Took out 5 more and the engine cranks further. Am having trouble thinking about getting Spark Plug # 3 out. Do I have to lift the engine, or take off the steering column?

camryman · May 2004

I have heard that for a new car it is good to change the transmission-fluid at an earlier schedule than the 30,000 miles specified in the Owner's Manual because breaking the car in leaves more residue in the transmission-fluid than normal operation. Is this true? I have asked the Toyota-Dealer this question and depending upon the mechanic you speak to, some recommend 30,000 miles and some recommend 15,000 miles. Does anyone know the mileage that we should do that first transmission-fluid change?

bolivar · May 2004

Two feet is a lot of water. Especially if the vehicle was going at any speed at all.

It's my understanding it doesn't take much water in a cylinder to 'hydrolock' a motor. I would work on getting all the plugs out of the motor and then seeing if it will crank.

Take all drive belts off, then try to crank it. Small chance, but the water might have caused an air conditioner, alternator, power steering, etc to seize up. Try to turn all these by hand.

Other wild guesses - some electronic module, connection, or sensor is soaked. You've already broken the crank, cam, valve, etc from water getting into a cylinder. The timing chain 'jumped' and is jammed.

????????????

Mr_Shiftright · May 2004

Is this car an automatic or manual? If manual, you could try a gentle push start or at least rocking it back and forth with engine off and car in 4th gear.

Definitely hydrolock is a possibility. A very good possibility.

bolivar · May 2004

I would think a newer Toyota could easily go 30,000 before the first transmission oil change.

Anything sooner would just be extra money in the shop's pocket.

Unless you are using the vehicle as a taxi....

Mr_Shiftright · May 2004

I would trust the toyota engineers on this one.

johnfromnc · May 2004

We are a car donation program in Raleigh, NC. We place cars with people in need. We recently received a donation of a nice '95 Mazda MPV with 73,000 miles. It looks like it could be a great placement for a family with kids. The car generally starts and runs fine; very pleasant to drive. BUT . . . it will sometimes go through this cycle where first the radio cuts out, then the headlights dim, then the engine starts to stumble . . . and then it dies. A "jump" gets the car started in half a second. But once this starts, the car will go three blocks and the radio, light and other electrical failures will reappear. Last night, it took me about 15 jumps to go one mile.

Here's the kicker: the alternator was just replaced, right before we got the car.

Any advice you can give will be greatly appreciated!

John
at www.wheels4hope.org

driftracer · May 2004

alternator - I've seen brand new or remanufactured parts fail right out of the box - don't assume that just because it's new, it's good.

Your best bet is to remove the alternator and take it to Chief, Pep Boys, Autozone, etc and get it tested - they'll bolt it up for free and run a load test on it.

Removing teh alternator and taking it there would be easier than the 43 jump-starts it would require to get the whole van there!

Good luck. One more thing - before you remove the alternator, take off the battery cables and clean them well, and look for corrosion (green powdery junk) - that stuff will shut down electrical current in a heartbeat. Check the terminals for tightness, check teh termination point of the cables, as well - make sure they're tight.

camryman · May 2004

The Owner's manual specifies 30,000 miles for the regular interval Transmission Fluid change, but doesn't breaking in the new car leave more residue in the transmission-fluid than normal? Similar to the debate of changing your motor oil at the first 1000 miles due to high residue, shouldn't the initial transmission oil be changed at a significant earlier schedule also?

Mr_Shiftright · May 2004

I think you have a bad battery.

Mr_Shiftright · May 2004

I would go by what the book says. There's going to be more residue at 30K than at 15K anyway.

The automatic transmission has two major enemies. Dirt and heat, with heat being the most dangerous. As for dirt, there's no reason there should be any in a near new transmission.

burdawg · May 2004

All your doing is putting some energy from the battery your jumping from into the battery in the van, going a little until it's used, then repeating the process. Sounds like the charging system isn't working, which could be due to a faulty alternator or regulator, loose belt, improper or bad connection, etc. As someone else posted, a "new" alternator isn't necessarily good, especially with todays poor quality rebuilts.

Mr_Shiftright · May 2004

If your battery voltage drops even just a bit, the car is not going to run right. The ECU doesn't like voltage drops.

driftracer · May 2004

and, at my pride, chose the physics of turbocharging as his topic. He needs a link or chart that helps him calculate and explain the actual elements of boost, how it's calculated, the factors/equations used to determine a given level of boost.

He has to explain the workings from front to back (easy enough to find at howthingswork.com), but he has to explain the actual factors and calculations to his class and teacher.

Any ideas?

camryman · May 2004

Does this mean that the extra residue found during break-in of the new transmission should not cause any additional significant wear? I have read in books, such as "Drive your car forever", to change the Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) at a significant earlier schedule (for the first ATF-change) to prolong the transmission-life. They never mentioned the mileage to do this first ATF-change. They did mention to change the Engine Oil at the first 1000 miles (although the owner's manual specifies to change at 7500 miles) and then every 3000 miles to prolong the Engine-life. I guess Transmission-Fluid changes are not as significant as Engine-Oil changes during break-in of new cars?

boogga · May 2004

While I'm driving there is a whistling sound. It's not the windows and it seems to becoming from the front. This happens when I reach speeds over 30MPH. Is there a hole I should plug?
2004 Denali....HELP it's driving me nuts!

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