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  • lmacmillmacmil Member Posts: 1,758
    "... try loosening the lug nuts (just a bit), then drive foward slowly, brake, drive backward slowly, brake."

    This worked! I loosened the nuts to finger tight then backed off 1 turn. Drove backwards maybe 20 feet, braked, then forwards and I heard the wheels break free on the forward stop. I put synthetic grease on the rotor face before putting the wheels back on.

    Thanks for the tip.
  • ramblingbubbaramblingbubba Member Posts: 3
    What is the recommended interval for changing the hoses on my engine?
    The mechanic says that they are fine & it would be a waste of money to change them. It has been some years since it was last done.I do not want to get stuck.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    If you trust your mechanic to closely examine them, then it's his call. Wear to hoses is both mileage and age related. If you see any cracks, or if the hose is getting very soft in the middle, replace them. Sometimes the wear in the hoses is internal and you can't see the deterioration. Certainly at around 80,000 I'd open up a few hoses, take them off and examine them during a coolant flush (every 2-3 years for coolant flushes). Heater hoses are just as important to inspect as radiator hoses.
  • canwcanw Member Posts: 3
    I own a 2008 Chevy Silverado 1500 LTZ with the 6 Liter Vortec Max engine. It has automatic trans (4sp) and has about 3500 miles on it. When the truck is in gear and stopped, the engine idle speed is very erratic, the tachometer bouncing around several hundred rpm either way. When underway, the engine runs fine. I've had the truck in for service and have spoken with GM. The service & technical folks all say the same thing--the engine runs according to the computer specs and was designed to run that way. "Just the nature of the beast" they say. Anyone else own this model Silverado and experience the same problem?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Wrong! I'd guess vacuum leak or maybe running a bit too rich at idle.

    This may be helpful to you:

    http://www.asashop.org/autoinc/may/TECH2TEC.HTM
  • stickguystickguy Member Posts: 50,489
    any chance you have the AC on (maybe with auto CC)? When the compressor cycles on and off it can drag down the RPMs.

    2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.

  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    A 6 liter Votec dragged down by an air conditioner.

    I don't think so.
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    Doesn't the Vortex Max engine idle a little rough due to the valve timing anyway?
  • billronbillron Member Posts: 3
    2001 Mercury Villager
    3.3 liter 6 cylinder with 12 valves
    transmission: auto
    Mileage 125k
    Problem: Engine service light is on. I took it to autozone to be check for the error code and it came back with no error code. Do I need to just reset the light and if so how do I?
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    The device that they use to read the error codes, also has the ability to reset the codes. However, I'm not sure how you could have a check engine light, with no error codes set, so I'm wondering if they read the codes correctly. There are some error cods that even after reset will continue to show, and they require a certain number of miles to be put on the vehicle (or number of car starts) without errors before they turn the error off. That's to prevent someone with an error code, from resetting the error, getting the car quickly inspected, and then the error code comes back on.

    You can buy those readers relatively cheaply now (30-100 bucks, depending on the model), so I'd suggest either picking up one yourself, or taking it to a different parts store to have them try reading the code for you and then resetting it. If you really don't have an error code, then I'm guessing the first guy some how reset it without reading it, and your error will clear in a couple of weeks (assuming don't have any additional errors). If there is no underlying error, and your light stays on two weeks, then go get it read again to find the error that came back.
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    If it's working fine with no apparent problems check to see if the gas cap is sealing good. A leak in the vapor recovery system is a common cause of SES (service eng soon) or CES (check eng. soon) indication. Otherwise, you already got good advice from kiawah.
  • gazzajcgazzajc Member Posts: 1
    i have a 2000yr toyota echo. 1.3 liter, 4 cylinder, automatic and have lost the ignition key. i had a replacement key cut from the door lock barrel but the engine only turns over. it will not start.I am told there is a "chip" in the origonal key that is recognised by the computor board and without that the whole system will have to be replaced. (security system apparently)The cost is more than the value of the car. Can the system be bypassed so a "non chip" key can start the engine
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Take your owners card w/Vin number to a Toyota dealer, and have them cut a blank chip key which will fit your ignition correctly. They'll then program the computer to accept that chip key, and you'll be good to go.

    Call them for prices, they can tell you over the phone exactly how much the new key will cost, and the programming. I had extra spares made for my Toyo couple months ago.
  • autodrautodr Member Posts: 27
    I think AutoZoo can only read generic fault codes. It is probably on for a fault that is setting a fault code that is proprietary to the manufacturer. Don't let them clear codes or "rest" anything. There is a whole other word of diagnostic information stored in the PCM that reaches beyond that of just "codes". If they clear the PCM's memory, it may effect your ability to have the vehicle properly diagnosed and repaired the first time at a shop. By clearing codes, you are working against the technician.
  • fastfishfastfish Member Posts: 3
    2003 Toyota Matrix boggs down(running fine then suddenly almost stops..then jumps to life again) It has 180.000 miles...I THINK it's the fuel pump trying to fail and have a used one from a car with 60,000 miles. I suspect the tank must be dropped to reach it..but is there anything else I need to be aware of when changing it? Does it sound like the fuel pump.?...or could injectors be the problem? Thanks for any help! ! It has an automatic trans and 1.8 litre engine(4 cyl)
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Fastfish,

    If you are going to go to all the trouble to drop the tank to replace the fuel pump, I would seriously consider putting in a new pump, rather than one from a vehicle with 60K miles on it.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Unless you are doing this yourself (where your time is worth nothing), I sure would not pay someone to installed a used, 60,000 mile fuel pump - buy a new one.
  • ossewaardeossewaarde Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 Infiniti G35 with xenon headlights. The headlight covers have a film on the inside. Does the film need to be cleaned by a professional, or can I do it myself?
  • autodrautodr Member Posts: 27
    You already have a used pump in your car now that you suspect is faulty. If you install another used part and have the same issue... then what?
  • billronbillron Member Posts: 3
    If it is just a yellow film a good rubbing compound will remove it. You can pick it up cheap at Walmart.
  • fastfishfastfish Member Posts: 3
    I'll probably get a new one if I do drop it. Does it sound like the fuel pump though? And what precautions to use when changing. I know to unhook the battery but do I need to depressurize the system or something?
  • autodrautodr Member Posts: 27
    It sounds like a lot of possible things. A fuel pump is among some of the possible suspects that come to mind when you say that it bogs. You really should have the vehicle checked out by a technician while it is doing it. You'll spend a lot more than any shop's diagnostic fees are by trying to guess at it. Guess correctly the first time and you stand a chance of saving... but guess wrong and you're throwing money down a hole.

    You don't need to disconnect the battery, just have the key off. As for de-pressurizing anything... well... its gonna de-pressurize it's self the second you pull a fuel line loose, you just don't want it to de-pressurize the fuel right into your eye ;)

    So, find a fuel line section that you can crack loose in a controlled manner to let it vent. You should put a new fuel filter on with a new pump, so a good place to loosen the line might be at the filter.
  • howdhowd Member Posts: 2
    how do you remove the battery from this car? not much room to get it out without removing the fender
  • euphoniumeuphonium Member Posts: 3,425
    Dear Ted,

    I hope you can help me here. The other day I set off for work, leaving my
    husband in the house watching the TV as usual. I hadn't gone more than a
    mile down the road when my engine conked out and the car shuddered to
    a halt.

    I walked back home to get my husband's help. When I got home I couldn't
    believe my eyes. He was in the bedroom with a neighbor lady making mad
    passionate love to her. I am 63, my husband is 65 and we have been
    married for thirty eight years.

    When I confronted him, he tried to make out that he went into the back
    yard and heard a lady scream, had come to her rescue but found her
    unconscious. He'd carried the woman back to our house, laid her in bed,
    and began CPR.

    When she awoke she immediately began thanking him and kissing him and
    he was attempting to break free when I came back. But when I asked him
    why neither of them had any clothes on, he broke down and admitted that
    he'd been having an affair for the past six months.

    I told him to stop or I would leave him. He retired from his job eleven
    months ago and he says he has been feeling increasingly depressed and
    worthless.

    I love him very much, but ever since I gave him the ultimatum he has
    become increasingly distant. I don't feel I can get through to him
    anymore.

    Can you please help?

    Sincerely, Linda

    -----------------------------------------------------------------

    Dear Linda,

    A car stalling after being driven a short distance can be caused by a
    variety of faults. Start by checking that there is no debris in the fuel line.
    If it is clear, check the clips holding the vacuum lines onto the intake manifold
    for vacuum leaks. If none of these approaches solves the problem, it could be that the
    fuel pump itself is faulty, causing low delivery pressure to the fuel injectors.

    I hope this helps & Merry Christmas,

    Ted
  • sicklesickle Member Posts: 1
    2000 Grand Caravan SE Sport
    V6 & 3.3L
    Auto
    95,000
    Problem: The front fan won't work most of the time. Also, the headlights warning "ding" won't work most of the time. Also, the intermintent wiper control doesn't work all of the time. I think it's a relay, but not for certain. I've had the alternator replace since this problem started. Anyone think it is a relay? Also, is there anyway to determine which relay without taking it to a dealer and paying (overpaying) to hook up the diagnostic computer? Thanks for any help?
  • eagles3eagles3 Member Posts: 4
  • eagles3eagles3 Member Posts: 4
    Hi,
    I have a 2000 Altima, 4 cylinder, with 65K miles. Local mechanic says I need a new Oxygen sensor. How long can I go without making this repair.

    Thanks,
    -- Brian
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    The Oxygen sensor detects how well the fuel mixture is burning (by monitoring the exhaust gases), and it feeds that information back to the computer to adjust the fuel mixture on the intake. If the sensor is bad, then the computer doesn't know how to adjust the mixture. You will then use more gas than you need to, as well as potentially cause damage. An anology would be a house furnace thermostat. You set the thermostat to the temperature you want, and there is a little temperature sensor that detects when it is too cold, and if so it turns the furnace on for you using gas/oil/electricity to heat the room back up the the optimum temperature setting. When the sensor detects it gets too hot, it shuts the furnance off. Without the temperature sensor, who knows whether your furnace will have the temperature too hot, or too cold.

    If the mixture is running too lean, then the engine cylinder valves will burn. If the mixture is too rich, the catalytic converter will clog. Both of those jobs are multiple hundreds of dollars to repair.

    How long? unknown what the mixture ends up as, as well as how many miles you put on your vehicle under what operating conditions.
  • eagles3eagles3 Member Posts: 4
    Thanks so much for the help and the explanation.
    -- Brian
  • samknightsrsamknightsr Member Posts: 2
    Are impact wrench sockets and regular ratchet drive sockets interchangeable? My son has an impact wrench and I don't. Will his impact wrench sockets fit on my ratchet drives?
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Yes
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Maybe....

    Each socket wall would be thicker and stronger, to withstand the impact action. They typically would be 1/2" drive (the size of the square at the end, the size of the ratchet handle, and the size of the extensions).

    A normal non-impact socket set would be typically 3/8" drive, smaller sets would be 1/4" drive, and larger heavy duty sockets would be 1/2" drive.

    If you have a 3/8" socket set and he brings over his 1/2" sockets, you are out of luck.
  • samknightsrsamknightsr Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the answers. We both have 3/8 and 1/2" ratchet drives, but he also has a 1/2" impact wrench. I'm thinking of buying him a set of specialty sockets (larger than the standard 1-1/8" sockets) but would like top be able to borrow them from time to time and use them with my 1/2" drive ratchet.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Look into a set of 3/4" drive sockets (w/rachet, breaker bar, and extension). The set I have goes up to a 2" socket.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    You can use his impact wrench sockets but he SHOULD NOT use your regular sockets on his air wrench. No, no, no no. They'll definitely break, I'll guarantee it, and if he's holding one as it spins, it's going to get ugly very quickly.

    Been there, done that.
  • amb82amb82 Member Posts: 3
    My mercedes has been dying on me while I'm driving, I pull over and start it back up and it will run fine. There has not been any warning or weird sounds before it happens and the check engine light has not come on once. Does anyone know what might be causing this?
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Unless you both work mainly on American autos, and older ones at that, you should consider metric sockets for any future purchases. Even older American cars carry a lot of metric bolts. Anything newer than 10 years will have lots and lots of metric.
  • tonylombardotonylombardo Member Posts: 1
    the clutch on the compressor failed and i am trying to by pass this with a smaller serpentine belt. is this possible and what size belt should i use.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,146
    When shopping belts for a 3800 motor, I came across this site on Goodyear for their cheaper, standard serpentine belt. It lists by lengths. Probably regular auto parts stores have the same listing. Having the right belt in stock might not happen, but it could be ordered to get the right length.

    Goodyear belts by length

    Have you looked to see if the path works to just leave out the compressor? No interference? You might check a book to see if the no compressor option was available for your year and motor; there might be a belt length listed already at the parts stores. Otherwise try using a cord around the pulleys and moving the tensioner to its proper place in its travel to measure.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • billronbillron Member Posts: 3
    I have done this a couple of times. The best thing to do is to get a semstress's tape for measuring your waist and wrapping it around the pulley's after you take off the compressor. Adjust the alternator or idol pulley to it's smallest point measure it and add a half inch. This will be the length of the belt you need. Then go to the site suggested and get your part number for the belt. Good luck with it.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Camshaft Positioning Sensor comes to mind, given your symptoms, although that should throw an error code. Given the complexity of the car, it's hard to guess. It could be so many things. A diagnostic scan would be helpful.
  • amb82amb82 Member Posts: 3
    I was told that a diagnostic scan wouldn't show any codes unless the engine light was coming on. Would the scan show any codes without the engine light being on?
  • richardsonrichardson Member Posts: 92
    I've been using sockets from a craftsman tool set I bought at Sears in 1962 on an impact wrench and have never had a problem. Do you think they made sockets heavier back then? Jim Richardson
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    You need a bigger impact wrench and a tighter nut. Then you can break one.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Oh yeah, in 1962 sockets were much heavier. Now you get very good looking, slim-line junk unless you buy the very best sockets. But I've busted some very good quality sockets in an air wrench. I would never EVER use a regular socket in an air wrench.

    Just line them up side by side and you'll see what I mean.

    I suppose on low power you could get away with it but sooner or later you're going to bust one sure as _____.
  • richardsonrichardson Member Posts: 92
    I've been using an electric impact wrench. Maybe it doesn't develop as much torque as an air wrench. Jim Richardson
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Yes that might explain why you haven't broken any.
  • watt476watt476 Member Posts: 9
    I was driving home one night and it stalled. I let it sit for a few minutes, and it restarted and ran for a few more minutes. I thought it might be electrical since the headlights were dimming and I didn't have turn signals. I let it sit for a couple of days since I didn't have the time to work with it, and when I got back to it I had to recharge the battery (with a booster). I also disconnected the cables to clean some corrosion off the terminals. When I got it started I noticed fuel bubbling from a valve on a fuel line, and the motor was idling rough then stalled. The valve looks like a valve stem on a tire, and the fuel line sits on top of the motor and appears to run from one bank of injectors to the other. Why would I have electrical problems and a fuel leak?
  • watt476watt476 Member Posts: 9
    Sorry, I forgot to mention it's a 3.3L V6 with 98K and we're having cold wet weather.
  • fastfishfastfish Member Posts: 3
    I got sooooo lucky with the fuel pump on the Matrix. From underneath it looked like you had to drop the tank . But ,like my 240sx...you can access the pump from the interior!! Just take off four bolts holding down the rear seats and flip them up. The pump is right there under a metal plate that is just held on with windshield type sealer. Undo three connections and 8 7 mm bolts and you're in! the pump DID solve the problem......
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