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Mazda3 Maintenance & Repair

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Comments

  • ndphdjdndphdjd Member Posts: 4
    I purchased a 3 s 4-door in 10/04. My problems with the car began on the trip home from the dealership. Here's a list of all of the problems and solutions:

     

    1. Rattle in instrument cluster. This occurred at all speeds, but was most noticeable at highway speeds. The dealer removed the cluster, secured some wires and added foam padding.

    2. Rattle behind/around glovebox. The dealer removed the glovebox and added padding.

    3. Noisy brakes on cold mornings, during the first or second applications. The dealer replaced the saddles on one set (I can't remember if they were F or R). I hear that a new TSB is coming out soon. In any event, the squeal is gone.

    4. Stiff, creaking clutch pedal. One dealership tried greasing the spring/assembly. This lasted for only 3 days. My hone dealership (I believe) had to replace the entire clutch pedal assembly. The clutch is much softer now than it was on delivery.

     

    That's about it...it's taken about 8 trips to the dealership to get the car in good condition...I knew that I took a risk when I purchased a car during it's first model year....

     

    In any event, I'm pretty happy. This is my third Mazda; I've previously owned a '95 Protege and a '96 626 V6. When I was on the new car market last fall, I test drove the Civic EX, Corolla, etc. I also test drove the Mazda 6 V6 twice. The 3 blew the Civic and Corolla out of the water. Although the 6 was more luxurious, the 3 was much more fun to drive....
  • harddrivetharddrivet Member Posts: 90
    I have this problem, and if you look at the posts here you will find many others. I took mine to the dealer several months ago and they said they found nothing wrong. Now I just turn the stereo on when the noise bothers me. Good fix huh?
  • z71billz71bill Member Posts: 1,986
    I found an easy fix for the clicking dash -

     

    My noise was coming from the plastic part of the dash that sticks out over the gauges. I tried stuffing foam under it - noise would go away for a week or two - but would always return.

     

    If you pull on this piece of plastic it will - without much effort - come part way off - this will leave about a 3 inch gap and you will see the 3 little notches that are designed to hold this piece in place. I stuck a small (about the size of my little finger) piece of foam directly into the notch so that when the parts snap together it makes for a much better fit.

     

    I have seen plastic toys from the dollar store that had better quality. This thing was designed to rattle.

     

    I was going to glue it in place - but maybe this part needs to come off if you ever need to replace a burned out light bulb. If my rattle comes back I will replace the foam with double sided sticky tape.
  • ele110ele110 Member Posts: 1
    I was hoping i could get a little advice on my Mazda3 since I don't have a lot of knowledge on cars!

     

    I bought my 2004 Mazda3 (with an automatic transmission) back in late June. About a week ago I started noticing a hesitation when I would try to accelerate. Each day the problem got worse and by Wednesday of this week it was almost undrivable. I could only get it up to 50 or so on the highway, unless I was going downhill and could get pick up more momentum. The more I would try to accelerate the more the car would jerk around. The day it broke down the RPM jumped up to around 6, almost in the red and stayed there for probably 10 seconds while I was on the highway. Later that night, the automatic transaxle light came on so I pulled over and had it towed to the dealer. The dealer is telling me it needs a new transmission already and it doesn't even have 9,000 miles yet. Of course they are replacing the transmission at no cost, but my biggest concern is if I caused any permanent damage to the car while I drove it that week under those conditions, especially the strain I put on the engine when it almost redline for that short period of time. I would like to hear anyone's opinion on this and also what would cause a transmission to go bad so quickly. Sorry this was so wordy!
  • sschaffersschaffer Member Posts: 80
    The only thing that could have been damaged is the transaxle and you're getting a new one anyway. Engine is designed to run at or near redline for a lot longer than you ran it without damage.

     

    This sort of failure, while rare, is not unheard of for any make. I work on Toyotas at a dealership and on very rare occasions even this paragon of reliability lets a bad engine or trans through. It's no doubt a manufacturing defect, somehow a bad part got into your transmission during assembly, rather than an inherent design problem as was the case with some of the Ford and Chrysler automatics.

     

    Since there are no widespread reports of trans troubles with the Mazda 3 you can without doubt put this down to a fluke and should have no concern about any ongoing problems.
  • fwdfwd Member Posts: 5
    I was in having my 3 serviced at the dealership and I noticed that they were doing more than a routine oil and filter. They have a wall of glass so that owners can watch the work being done on their cars.

     

    I asked the service manager what was going on and was told that Mazda had found a problem with the 3 and were replacing the parts when they came in for service.

     

    I asked if there had been a recall issued and was told that it wasn't a safety issue and that it was easier for them to do it this way.

     

    I don't know what parts were replaced but I am concerned.

     

    Anyone else know what is going on???
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    The service invoice should indicate which parts were replaced. If not, ask the service manager to tell you. It's your car and you deserve to know which parts were replaced.
  • jaw407jaw407 Member Posts: 6
    I just purchased one of the remaining few 04' S. series today. Can someone tell me where I can find the date the car left the manufacturer or when it was released? I'm kind of nervous about buying the left over, but I couldn't afford the extra $$$ for the 2005. I was going to buy the 05' (i) series but I noticed a big difference in power with the 2.3L so I opted for the 04'.
  • z71billz71bill Member Posts: 1,986
    Open the drivers side door - you should see a label - it gives the month and year manufactures.
  • lisonlison Member Posts: 4
    Hi folks,

    I was in to the dealer yesterday to buy an extra key (that will work in the ignition as well as open the door) that I always keep wired or magnetted to my cars for emergencies and was surprised to find out that the key costs $28, and the programming of it costs $97 and takes over an hour! Does this sound right? Are there aftermarket companies making and programming them?
  • daryldaryl Member Posts: 41
    I think this has been mentioned previously but I just can't find it on previous posts.

    I'm seriously looking into buying KN's air filter and cold air intake system for my '04 Mazda3. The prices quoted are $300+. Sounds high according to a friend who is very familiar with KN products. Has anyone made this switch yet? If so, what did it cost and how easy was the installation.

    Thanks, Daryl
  • jaw407jaw407 Member Posts: 6
    I wanted to buy an extra key for my son and the dealer wanted to charge me $75.00, which I thought was too much. They said there is a computer chip in there that needs to be programmed to the car or else it wouldn't work. I thought that was just a sales pitch so I didn't buy it. I went to the hardware store and was told the same thing (they couldn't make one). So for what there charging you I guess my $75.00 isn't so bad. Unless someone else know of a cheaper way of getting a key made?
  • lisonlison Member Posts: 4
    Does anyone know what companies are making the regular spin-on filters for the 2.0 engine?

    I read on a different forum that Purolator was marketing the wrong filter and causing major damage in some cases. Fram doesn't list them in their catalogs or website at all, even tho the Mazda3 has been out for a year and a half.
  • z71billz71bill Member Posts: 1,986
    I went to Walmart and had a key made for less than $1.00. I keep it in a magnetic key holder behind my bumper - it will not start the car - it will not even open the door - but it opens the trunk and that is where I keep the other set of keys that came with my car.

     

    I have paid through the nose for keys with chips in them before - thinking I needed a spare set and never even used them once.

     

    If you ever loose your keys you can use the key code to have Mazda make a key. This code should have been included with your keys when you purchased your car - it is a small metal thing about 1/3 the size of a wooden match. It has the code stamped on it. If you did not get this you should find out from your dealer what the code is for your car.

     

    I would not waste any $ on a K&N filter - I have known several people who have put them on cars and trucks - they make your engine sound "COOL" (if you like a loud sucking sound coming from your engine) but as far as helping performance they did nothing. They are also (IMO anyway) a major pain in the rear to clean and re-oil - at least compared to a regular air filter.

     

    Why not spend your $ on something that has a better chance of improving the performance of your engine - like one of those big foam cowboy hats - or maybe some fuzzy dice to hang from the rear view mirror!
  • todd7todd7 Member Posts: 16
    I curious to know what mpg people are getting in a 3s manual. I'm replacing my Corolla and am debating between an "i" and a "s" model.
  • billherrmannbillherrmann Member Posts: 108
    What would the performance improvements that will result from the KN upgrades that you are considering?
  • daryldaryl Member Posts: 41
    First of all, I'm not into the aftermarket tuning or anything like that. I'm a 49 year old enthusiast who happens to enjoy my 3. According to the K&N website, and a friend who has a lot of experience with their products, HP would inprove about 10%, up to about 176 in this case. The reason I'm looking into it is for a little more low end power. The power in my 3, 5spd, doesn't really come on until around 3500 rpm.

    With all due respect to z71's post, this is something I'm just looking into, and wouldn't do until spring when it's warm enough to do it outside (Illinois) and I have a friend to help.

    Daryl
  • daryldaryl Member Posts: 41
    My 5spd 5door S model gets 30 on the highway, cruise control on, around 70-75 mph. In the city, when the revs are mostly over 3000, the mileage drops a lot. My driving commute is about 50/50 and I avg 23-27, depending on weather, and if I drive real easily to go for a high mileage tank.

    But, when filling up, I've found that I really don't care as much about mileage because the cost difference at fillups isn't big enough to get worried about. If I went for high mileage everytime I drove the car, it wouldn't be as much fun. Actually, it wouldn't be the same car.

    Daryl
  • 68mpolo68mpolo Member Posts: 21
    How's it going everybody?

     

    I bought a production date 01/04 Mazda 3Hatch on April/04. I love the car but I've lately had to bring it in for a few things.

     

    1. A creaking noise cming from the front wheels when I go over speed bumps at 5 mph--Ive brought it in to get it checked out and it took them 3 days to repair the control arm on the right side(that's what the repair guy told me)....drove it over some speed bumps in the auto mall and the noise was still there so I had to bring it back a few days later...NOW its going to take them 5 days to get the parts and repair some "bushings."

    I'm thinking I need to slow down more when I go over speed bumps.

    2. There is a clicking/tapping noice coming from the shifter console when I depress the brake while the car is idling in park- dealer told me that is a "characteristic" of most 3's and the noise is just a little louder in mine.

     

    Has anyone had the same problems. Thanks.
  • bluem6ibluem6i Member Posts: 77
    "According to the K&N website, and a friend who has a lot of experience with their products, HP would inprove about 10%, up to about 176 in this case."

     

    That's a nice claim, but it's not true! You "might" get a small boost in HP, but nowhere near 10%. They couldn't make enough of them if that were true. You would be lucky to get 10% from a cold air intake and a high performance exhaust at a cost of several hundred dollars.

     

    I put a K&N panel filter in my 2002 Protege and it does sound a little better and maybe gave me a 1% HP boost.
  • daryldaryl Member Posts: 41
    I stand corrected. I forgot to mention that the air filter would be part of the whole cold air intake system to boost it up about 10%. If I do this I would do the complete intake and filter.

    Daryl
  • eoghan1eoghan1 Member Posts: 58
    I also have a 5spd hatch. Chipping my 2 cents re mileage I average 26-27 in 75% suburban driving and the rest highway. Driving carefully and keeping the revs down does not seem to make for much improvement. Shifting smoothly around 3-3.5K rpm is my happy compromise. Only once did I get 30 mpg on the highway holding about 70mph.
  • jsnschmasnjsnschmasn Member Posts: 10
    Hey, I've got an '04 3i and I'm only getting 24-26mpg. I asked the service advisor about it when it was in for a few things and she said it was totally normal, especially if you're speedy? Is that a bunch of phooey? I also had the only changed at 1k. I asked the dealership for full synthetic and they said they put it in only to find out it was 10-30 and not the recommended weight. Would that affect mileage still after 2 other changes and about 7,000 additional miles?
  • qddaveqddave Member Posts: 164
    That clicking sound is the brake interlock solenoid energizing. Try shifting out of Park without stepping on the brake pedal. Can't do it huh? Stepping on the brake energizes a solenoid which unlocks the shift lever, allowing you to shift out of Park. Your dealer is correct, that sound exists in every Mazda3. In fact, it's in every vehicle, just a little louder in yours.
  • el_bagadorel_bagador Member Posts: 28
    i'm getting crappy mileage on an '04 standard tranny hatch, but:

     

    --i just bought it, and don't have 600 break-in miles on it yet

    --it's been cold and snowy with lots of crap on the road

    --i've had to use the defog a lot because of the wet weather

     

    i expect it will improve dramatically once i get over 1k miles and have an oil change.
  • eoghan1eoghan1 Member Posts: 58
    I bought a nice used set of Dunlop Graspic 215/55 R16's on Alloy wheels off a Maxima. The bolt circle is the same but the offset is such that the tires extend slightly outside the wheel wells and I am getting more spray on the side of the car. I thought the 10 mm greater width(205 vs. 215) would not have much effect but it is apparent Everything clears and traction is much better. I am thinking about getting some splash guards. Am I risking any suspension damage with the variance? Also, where should I place a floor jack to lift the front or back wheels simultaneously?
  • z71billz71bill Member Posts: 1,986
    I use a floor jack on the side and lift the front and rear at the same time. I put a scrap piece of 2x4 - maybe 6 inches long - on the floor jack (to protect the underside of the car) - there is a little lip that runs under the doors - a 2x4 fits in this lip.

     

    I tried to find a place to put jack stands under the Mazda3 but did not have much luck.
  • poquitapoquita Member Posts: 1
    I recently bought a Hatchback model with the standard radio. I think the sound quality is absolutely terrible, especially on vocals. The sound seems to be tinny, or raspy, or distored, but vocals do not sound clear and sharp. I don't know if the radio itself is that poor, if the speakers are poor, or if it's both a poor radio and speakers. At any rate, I'm curious to know if other people find the same thing, or if something is wrong with the stereo system in my car. I had the service manager listen to the radio, and all he told me was that it's "normal". Actually, it sounds so bad that I'm considering replacing it. But I don't know if just replacing the speakers will make it sound better or not. Any help would be appreciated. i love the car otherwise, but this is very disappointing.

    .
  • waygrabowwaygrabow Member Posts: 214
    I have a Mazda3S sedan MT with almost 16,000 miles. On its first tank of gasoline, the car achieved 30 mpg. Every refill since then has shown even better mileage. I just refilled yesterday, and the computed mileage was 33 mpg. My car trips generally are 10-25 miles long at an average speed of 40-50 mph. On highway trips, the car gets 35+ mpg.
  • 68mpolo68mpolo Member Posts: 21
    qddave,

    Thanks for the reply. This is my first new car and I appreciate all the info I can learn about it in this forum. I'd just never heard that clicking sound before (and if it was there it wasnt that loud). The 04 Neon loaner that I got doesn't seem to have it. Anyway,I am hopefully going to be able to pick up my Mazda3 today after 6 days in the shop.

    You can truly appreciate driving a Mazda3...as they say "absence makes the heart grow fonder."

     

    Thanks.

    68mpolo
  • 68mpolo68mpolo Member Posts: 21
    I have a Mazda3 Hatch with automatic and I've only been averaging about 26 mpg recently. I drive 90% highway, 72 miles rountrip from home to work going about 70-80 mph. Once I get my car back I'll drive between 60-70 mph and see if that makes a hugh difference.
  • jrct9454jrct9454 Member Posts: 2,363
    Under the circumstances you describe, burning winter-blend fuel, with an automatic hatch, it sounds to be that 26 mpg is well within the envelope of reasonable expectations.

     

    The combination of relatively short gearing, 75 mph average, and lower-energy winter fuel means less than optimal mileage. Same conditions in the summer would bring you up maybe 1-2 mpg, which again, would be well within my expectations for this car at these speeds.
  • switchmanswitchman Member Posts: 1
    I am currently shopping for a new car and was looking at the Mazda3. I am trying to find out if they have fixed the brake and AC problems in the 05 model? While I can find posts stating the 04 Mazada and Focus has thes problems, I have been unable to find any where that say's they have been fixed.

     

    The only info I have been able to find is on the 05 Focus, and it appears it has not been fixed in that platform.
  • howdycuzhowdycuz Member Posts: 12
    I also live in Houston. Any feedback on the later '04 and 2005 Mazda3s? I'm considering a 5-door Manual model. Thanks!
  • lsmiles13lsmiles13 Member Posts: 5
    Well, i'm glad it's not just me that is kind of nervous driving with the stock tires... I was beginning to feel real like a real wuss there for a while. I've only had 1 experience in the snow with my Mazda and I seriously saw my life flash before my eyes several times.

     

    My husband works for Bridgestone/Firestone and gets a discount so as soon as I can get to their store i'm getting something new.

     

    One question though, would it be better to just get 4 new all-season tires or just find 4 rims and get actual snow tires? We dont have a garage so I dont really know where I would store them. (I had 4 All-seasons on both of my previous cars and they were fine.)
  • mazdafunmazdafun Member Posts: 2,329
    FWIW, I only played with the stereo when checking out Mazda3 models a while ago, but I thought the stock stereo and speakers sounded pretty good, though I had to adjust the equalizer settings to get the sound I like. If you want to boost vocals, increase the mid-range boost. Of course, better speakers would greatly improve the sound.
  • runinrunin Member Posts: 30
    I bought some universal mudflaps at Autozone and put them on the front of my car myself. Didn't seem like the rear needed it. They cost me about $10 and a few extra dollars for the screws but much cheaper than the $50 or more you will pay for them through mazda. Go that way if you want them.
  • z71billz71bill Member Posts: 1,986
    I don't really have any input on the 2005 model -

    I have 3 S sedan with the dreaded 10/2003 build date. So I have had more than my share of problems. The big problems that are still not resolved - grinding rear brakes, hard shifting (1st-2nd gear) automatic tranny and the biggest pain - a defective AC system.

     

    I had thought about taking a test drive in a 2005 model on a 95+ degree day - take my thermometer along and see if I get any colder air out of a 2005. Then see if I can get Mazda to also recognize the problem (if my air temp is like 10 degrees warmer) and fix my AC system. The second option would be to trade my lemon 2004 off on a 2005 Mazda3- but that just does not seem like a very bright solution. I have looked at almost every car on the market (under $30K anyway) and really don't see any that I would rather drive - but since Mazda has treated me so poorly it would be hard to jump into another Mazda. Kind of like - cheat me once shame on you - cheat me twice shame on ME. I now know for a fact that - once Mazda gets your money you are on your own - they could not care less if you have a good ownership experience.

     

    Since the temps are kind of cool - I will just have to wait.
  • taylor3taylor3 Member Posts: 16
    Well I was finally able to get rid of this disaster of a car. After only 10 1/2 months and 12,000 miles here is what i went through....

     

    14 different interior rattles affecting the dashboard, passenger seat, rear seat,clutch arm, sunroof glass, sunroof sunshade, headliner, rear hatch, rear cargo management system, door panels and all 4 windows...

     

    It went in (many times) mechanically to have....

     

    all rear brakes replaced, front brake calipers replaced, entire hydraulic system replaced on the clutch (and it was still messed up), replaced clutch switch,all rear shocks and springs replaced, rear hatch struts replaced, replacement of drive shaft bolts-they just "fell" off for no apparent reason according to the dealer, front suspension work, front left hub work, a/c work and more....

     

    When i sold it a few days ago(at a "loss" of course...I did not care, just wanted to get away from this piece of junk), the transmission was screwing up, the clutch was still nuts, and the power steering was acting erratic like it was "not" power steering and more groans and creaks and rattles out of the front end.....

     

    I dealt with two different Mazda dealers and they either would not or could not fix it and the Mazda 1-800 Customer Service Number Reps were absolutely "rude and nasty" to me....It is true about Mazda Reps,,,they dont care...They kept telling me..."you need to take it up with the dealer sir"....What a joke. What good is a warranty if they will not or cannot fix it? And what good is a 1-800 Customer Service number if all they do is rudely tell you to take it up with the dealer?

     

    I will "NEVER , EVER" buy a Mazda product again.

     

    Good riddance and anyone considering Mazda Products???....Run for your lives and do not even give them one penny for anything they sell. I obviously have gone with another manufacturer for my automotive needs.

     

    And also, when you look at this website and other owner websites, I am "not" the only one with issues on Mazdas.

     

    Good Luck''
  • mdaffronmdaffron Member Posts: 4,421
    Sorry you got a lemon.

     

    My experience:

     

    1992 Protege LX: 28,000 miles, no problems

    (Until it was totaled, that is, LOL)

    1992 Protege LX: 83,000 miles, no problems

    2000 Protege ES: 87,700 miles, no problems

    2002 Protege5: 42,000 miles, no problems

     

    I did own a 1994 B2300 pickup which was plagued by engine pinging, BUT: (a) Mazda extended the bumper-to-bumper warranty for the life of the truck after not being able to diagnose the cause, and (b) I drove the truck 114,000 miles and it never had any problems other than a constantly pinging engine, which I later found out was a trait of the poorly designed 2.3-liter, 2-spark-plug-per-cylinder, SOHC piece-a-you-know-what Ford engine that was in it. (Same engine that was in the 1980s-1990s Tempos -- go do some research and you'll see!) Live and learn, but it never left me stranded in more than five years and 100K miles of driving.

     

    But as for the Japanese-built Mazdas I've owned, I've had zero problems with any of them in a combined quarter-million miles. Yep, I gave them another chance after the pickup, and I've had almost 130,000 miles of impeccable quality as a result.

     

    I'm sure everyone could tell you a "never again" story about one bad apple ruining the whole barrel. But there are lemons, and you kind of got what you asked for ... you purchased nearly the first off-the-line of a totally new vehicle with a totally new engine. I hate to say this, but go back and look at my postings from a year ago. OK, you ready? Here goes.

     

    I TOLD YOU SO.

     

    Meade

     

    P.S. BTW, what do you have now?
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 236,588
    a re-badge of a Ford Ranger? I don't think there was a Mazda part in the whole truck... let alone, just the engine...

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  • mdaffronmdaffron Member Posts: 4,421
    I wanted to be completely and impartially fair with my list of Mazdas I've owned, so I included the B2300.

     

    But yes, the B2300 was a rebadged Ranger, right down to the 4x6-inch Blue Oval Ford logo embossed in the metal front suspension to the Ford part numbers on all the engine parts, to the MOTORCRAFT parts, hoses, wiring harnesses, battery, spark plugs, shocks, and nearly everything else in, on and under the vehicle! Heck, I even had to replace the oil filler cap once ... and I had to go to a Ford dealership to get it because Mazda wanted a couple of days to get one ... I guess an oil-filler cap ain't exactly a common replacement, but, er, well, when ya need one, ya really can't drive without one, ya know?

     

    :)

     

    Yep, for me, I guess it's "never another Ford product." But I will say that Mazda North America not only accommodated me; they sent a rep out to my dealership TWICE to meet me and talk with me about the problem, and once my warranty expired at 50K miles, they kept on meeting with me every few months to try yet another "fix" -- at one point keeping the truck for two weeks and spending more than $2,000 on a remachined head, all new sensors, new catalytic converter, etc. (I still have the receipt) -- all at no cost to me. (This was at about 65,000 miles.) And of course, every time they kept my truck, I got to test-drive another Mazda product as a loaner!

     

    Why did they not just give me a new truck? Well, for one thing, the symptom (pinging) was never enough to cause a driveability problem, and I was more satisfied with a "warranty for life" than with taking a chance on the same problem all over again. Besides, by the time I really got upset about it, I was already looking at a zoom-zoomy, Hiroshima-built, Japanese-all-the-way Protege ... and I didn't want to be in a Ford product for another five years!!!

     

    Would you?

     

    :)
  • eoghan1eoghan1 Member Posts: 58
    I bought some used tires to replace the original Goodyears because of my poor experience with them

    They are Dunlop Graspic's and the improvement is noticeable. I was surprised when I took off the Goodyears and noticed there is a M&S designation.(mud and Snow) on them. I think that means they consider them all season tires. So based on this and various other comments I think the way to go is with genuine snows like Blizzaks. Good luck finding rims. Tire Rack is sold out for the season and won't get any until next winter.
  • eoghan1eoghan1 Member Posts: 58
    Did you put them on a Hatchback? If so, how much did you have to modify them. The ones available from mazdastuff.com specifically say they will not fit on a hatchback, just the sedan. I did not find any recommended for the hatchback.
  • bjones1bjones1 Member Posts: 2
    I test drove a 3S hatch in the summer of 04' and I took a thermometer along to check the A/C and it didn't cool down but to 44degrees F which may sound ok but is not sufficent when driving in 90 plus degree weather. My old Accord has the old R12 system in it and it cools to 36-40 degrees and keeps me very comfortable in extremely hot weather. I also noted that the rotors were groved noticably on this brand new 3. Rust had built up on all the rotors of the 3's available that day. Previous to the 3 test drive I test drove a 6 and noticed hestation in it and it didn't impress me. I had the mechanic put the 6 on the rack so I could see where the oil filter waslocated and I noticed and showed the mech. the cv boot on the right side was oped and had expelled its grease all over the tire and wheel. THis was a brand new 6 with the v-6 engine so this was enough to tell me Mazda and Sad to say all the other major manufact. ARE NOT BUILDING QUALITY AND SAFE CARS!!!! i'VE SEARCHED FOR 3 YEARS FOR QUALITY IN AUTO. AND ITS NOT THERE ANYMORE!!! The newer cars are more powerful but they are not build with quality as the number 1 priority. Large number of customers complain of airbags that don't deploy as well as major eng. trans. ignition. etc. Dealers can't fix these problems because they only have defective parts to replace them with. They DONT CARE ABOUT THE PROBLEMS BECAUSE THEY ARE TOLD TO SAY " I cant replicate your complaint and That's normal. they know the cars are defective but there is no one to call their hand so they keep saying these things in hopes that yo9u will trade or get off their backs. The factory won't take the time from production to fix a prob. it means lost $$$$. and they only want to sell and could care less about righting their wrongs!!!!
  • bjones1bjones1 Member Posts: 2
    Please let us know about your a/c when hot weather gets here. Mazda is losing big $$$ because of brake and A/C issues they apparently haven't fixed.
  • z71billz71bill Member Posts: 1,986
    About 3 months ago I had to replace the refrigerator in my home - I noticed that it used R-134A refrigerant - So BTW does my new refrigerator. This is the same refrigerant used in the Mazda3.

     

    I know that there are major differences between a refrigerator and an auto AC system - but the basics are the same. My new refrigerator keeps my freezer at 5 degrees - and it is not even at the lowest setting. Many times last summer when the temps in Houston were close to 100 degrees + very high humidity - the AC in my Mazda3 would be blowing 58 degree air - sure it felt cool - but no way are you going to cool a car - on a 100 degree day with 58 degree air.

     

    mdaffron

    You are completely missing the point - again. Seems like we had the same conversation last summer. So you have had 4 Mazda car that gave you no problems - so back in 1994 Mazda tried many times to fix your lemon PU. This is 2005 and Mazda will not fix MY car. I don't care what they did 10 years ago and really no one buying a new car today should care much about what they did 10 years ago. What people should care about is what is Mazda doing to help its customers TODAY.

     

    Ford purchased a larger stake in Mazda back in 1996 - at the time I think Mazda was bleeding so much red ink that they almost did not survive - do you think that maybe they (Ford) changed a few things - like maybe trying to cut back on the expense of caring about your customers.

     

    One more thing - your comment about not buying a new first year model - in some strange way it sounds like even you accept the fact that Mazda will not stand behind the warranty on their cars - like - better wait until they get all the bugs worked out because once you buy it Mazda will not be giving you any support.
  • billherrmannbillherrmann Member Posts: 108
    It's common knowledge that a first year model from ANY car maker is likely to have problems[bugs] that need to be corrected. It has nothing to do with whether the manufacturer will, or will not, stand behind the warrenty.
  • taylor3taylor3 Member Posts: 16
    Bill, I agree with you. Mdaffrons point about "first year models" and his "I told you so" does not hold any wax to the candle. I have bought first year models before and have had no problem. Guess he sticks up for Mazda and makes it like they are "allowed" to have first year problems. I even suspect he works for Mazda and is a "plant" on this website. "Oh", mine was not the "exact first" off the line (almost 6 months later off the first line) and do your homework mdaffron, the 2.3 had already been out over a year in the Mazda6....exact same engine as the Mazda3.

     

    Well "mdaffron", you really should know something; "first year model" or not, does not work if the company will "not" help you with "any" year they make and are robot-like in always saying "we cannot duplicate the problem" or it "is normal" or "take it up with your dealer sir". Also, when I traded my car in, there was a couple there trading their "second year production 05' Mazda3". They told me they have owned it only two months and it has been in the shop 9 times. They got the same treatment. They have "had it" with their "sub-par" product and they have "had it" with Mazda Customer Service. Luckily, they were in a financial position where they could afford the loss of value to get rid of it,,but what about all those other poor souls? So quit taking up for Mazda or people on here are really going to suspect that you "are a employee of Mazda".

     

    Regardless of "year made", Customer Service is Customer Service, and if you treat people rudely, you have to "pay the cost". "Thank-you" internet. Before, the car companies got away with it,,,not now thanks to websites where future owners can see the "real picture" and the car companies still have not realized it. They better because......

     

    I personally work for a major university on the East coast. I have sent out a massive group email about my problems with Mazda to staff, faculty and students. It worked! I have received dozens and dozens of e-mails back "thanking" me for the information and now I (last time I counted) have stopped two-dozen Mazda sales and have prevented many of them from even considering Mazda now. And the number of sales I have stopped continues to climb. Mazda owes me an apology, and until they give me one, I will continue to tell my story and stop future sales.

     

    I am glad you like your Mazda, I liked one I owned a few years back as well(and it "was" a first year model). But they have changed and we can all probably thank big money and greed for that.
  • mdaffronmdaffron Member Posts: 4,421
    Why is it that you are allowed to bash Mazda because of your problems with one vehicle, but when someone (me) comes in to defend Mazda because they've had four really good ones, that person gets beaten up verbally?

     

    Isn't the Town Hall allowed to present both sides, or are we only allowed to present the negative?

     

    All I'm saying is, it's hard to believe that Mazda is slamming the door on one owner when they opened it wide to help another with his problems.

     

    No, my friends, I don't work for Mazda. (I wish I did.) I'm just a lowly management-level employee at a business in Central Virginia. I happened to fall in love with the Protege back when I left college and needed a small "econobox," and was about to settle for a Civic when I happened to pass by a Mazda dealership. I'd driven everything else and couldn't believe the features and performance the Protege had for the price. It's still a leader in those categories, and I'm sorry some of you have had problems with the 3. I don't forgive Mazda for its first-year woes, but I have seen Mazda make things right and I do believe they are capable.

     

    Just don't think the grass is greener everywhere else. We had a 1995 Chevrolet Cavalier with a known, published head gasket problem that was acknowledged by GM with a recall. Little did we know it wasn't the head gasket that was the problem, but a poorly designed head that didn't seat correctly on the block. Yes, GM replaced the first head gasket (a $600 job), but when the car started leaking coolant like a sieve another 8,000 miles later, GM Customer Service flat out told me, "The warranty was good for ONE head gasket replacement." We paid for the next one. Another 5,000 miles went by and the car blew its THIRD head gasket in less than 50,000 miles. We decided to trade the car for the Protege5 at that point.

     

    If anyone else is having these kinds of unresolved problems with their Mazda3s, I wouldn't give up so easily. I would've taken Mazda to court with a Lemon Law case back in 1995 had the troubles with my old pickup started within my state's lemon law time criteria. They didn't, and so the lemon law was no option for me. (In Virginia you have to have had the same problem at least three times in the first 18 months of ownership -- mine's problems didn't surface until it had 8,000 miles on it, and its third visit for the same problem didn't happen until it was almost two years old.) If your 3 has had the same problems repeatedly since Day One, you've got a textbook Lemon Law case in any state.

      

    I would highly recommend visiting:

     

    http://www.nationallemonlawcenter.com/

     

     

    Taylor, it sounds like you may have had a lemon-law case that you should have pursued. I actually talked to a lemon law attorney way back in 1995 about my Mazda, at length -- to the point that we explored taking Mazda to court on a Magnuson-Moss Breach of Warranty Act case. (Still sound like I work for Mazda, btw?) But unlike a lemon-law case, that kind of case would've cost me more than I had in the truck and the outcome was uncertain. So I decided to take Mazda up on their "Till Kingdom Come Warranty" offer.

     

    Did you talk to a lawywer before you gave up? You might have wound up with a problem-free 2005 model and a refund of the payments on your 2004 up to this point.

     

    Ooops! Guess I sound like I work for a law firm now.
           

    Meade
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