Mazda3 Maintenance & Repair

autonomous · November 2005

MY FIRST HAND experience with Mazda- which is based on 667 days of ownership (Mazda3) has been a house of pain!
We share your pain. Really.

p.s. it's been 1268 days of pain-free ownership of my Mazda

x5918 · November 2005

Previously I complained about the cupholder in Mazda3 HB, with stick shift. The other pevee is the parking brake. Sure, there is a light in the dashboard - but many cars have a beeper, to warn you of driving with parking brake on. The rear disc brakes are monsters. Driving 5 minutes on highway, before discovering the handbrake, is major mistake. The discs already turned blue'ish because of the heat, and smelled burned. :sick: Discs and brake pads ruined?

The seatbelt warning beep can be fooled with various buckle, unbuckle tricks, but it is turned on again when the car is driven (picks up speed), and belts are unfastened. Somesort of double checking, by the car computer? I whish the car computer would warn about the parking brake, as well, while it's at it.

The brake light is useless, because the Mazda3 dashboard is ambient by definition. The brake warning light is not really a warning light, when it blends that well in, with the rest of the indicators. Same amber color for everything - the fancy indicator panel looks cool, but at the same time the warning function is lessened. Is there any after market gadget? to emit a beep for the parking brake when shift stick is out of neutral position? (1st,2nd,3rd gear etc)

z71bill · November 2005

Shift shock - after reading that several people had their cars re flashed I did a search - found a site that listed this as the repair code - "F0010XFX Powertrain control module re flashing". Not 100% sure this is correct - you never know about stuff posted on the net - but I plan to take this info in with me to the dealership on Monday.

I had the stalling problem - car would start then die - it always started again - never left me walking - replaced the fuel pump and my problem was solved.

Mazda has a new TSB out on the hard start condition it replaced the prior TSB - the new one is:

01-013/05 2004-2005 MAZDA3 - ENGINE HARD START

Some vehicles may experience an engine with hard starting (cranks but takes 10 seconds or longer to start). The condition is more likely after vehicle sits overnight or for an extended time. Rough idle may occur just after the engine is started.

This may be caused by fouled spark plugs if the vehicle is frequently driven in stop-and-go conditions, such as in heavy traffic.

IMO your ruff idle is being caused by fouled spark plugs.

mrblonde49 - I would agree with your statement except it is not just me that is having problems with the AC, brakes, suspension, tranny, engine stalling (plus more) - many other owners are also having problems. But before you say - but its a small % and all car companies bla bla bla - let me add that EVEN MAZDA ADMITS that the Mazda3 has all of these problems. They (Mazda) have issued a TSB on every one. How many problem cars (what %) do you think is required before Mazda issues a TSB?

autonomous - glad to hear about the GOOD LUCK you are having with Mazda. I am not saying every Mazda ever built is bad - I am saying that Mazda has not done enough to solve the problems on the cars that have defects.

I have been waiting more than 20 months to get my grinding brakes and harsh shifting tranny fixed. I think 20 months is too long (just like this post is too long!) How long do YOU think it should take a GOOD company to come up with a fix for these obvious defects?

oskwi · November 2005

Which CR are you referring to? I just bought the "Fall 2005 Auto Pricing and Ratings Guide" and they gave the M3 a solid red circle for reliability...one of few solid red circles in the entire book.

I was recently contemplating purchasing a new M3 BUT decided to perform some necessary work on my 2001 Protege (timing belt, horn replacement)and keep it for one more Buffalo winter. After this winter, who knows? The Protege will be departing but for what, I don't know.

I've driven so many cars over the past few months that I can honestly say I am truly at a loss. Cars that were once virtually indestructible are becoming major headaches...boy do I wish they just facelifted the Protege instead of dumping it altogether.

Take care.

mazda6s · November 2005

You drove 5 minutes on the highway with the parking brake on and you want to blame the car?

z71bill · November 2005

Has anyone ever tried to stop their Mazda3 using the parking brake?

Just before giving my 16 year old her first driving lesson I wanted to see how fast the car would stop if I pulled up on the parking brake lever - seemed like a good thing to know at the time since it was about the only thing I could do to stop the car with her behind the wheel. I pulled hard on the lever - it did almost nothing to slow the car down - the last time I did this (with another car) it locked up the rear wheels. Is their something wrong with my parking brake - or is this normal on the Mazda3? It seems to hold the car fine when on a hill (with car in "N")

mrblonde49 · November 2005

"I didn't see that Consumer Reports currently "recommended" the 2005 Mazda3. I also looked at MSN's car site and they have CR info. For the 2005, they indicate that "no reliability data" is available. "

Well, maybe you should go to the direct source. But I suppose you're not a subscriber. Pull up the Mazda3 page on the CR wbsite, and it say RECOMMENDED.

For 2005, there is a FULL RED DOT for reliability.

Nuff on the subject

mrblonde49 · November 2005

Previously I complained about the cupholder in Mazda3 HB, with stick shift. The other pevee is the parking brake. Sure, there is a light in the dashboard - but many cars have a beeper, to warn you of driving with parking brake on. The rear disc brakes are monsters. Driving 5 minutes on highway, before discovering the handbrake, is major mistake. The discs already turned blue'ish because of the heat, and smelled burned. Discs and brake pads ruined?

The seatbelt warning beep can be fooled with various buckle, unbuckle tricks, but it is turned on again when the car is driven (picks up speed), and belts are unfastened. Somesort of double checking, by the car computer? I whish the car computer would warn about the parking brake, as well, while it's at it.

The brake light is useless, because the Mazda3 dashboard is ambient by definition. The brake warning light is not really a warning light, when it blends that well in, with the rest of the indicators. Same amber color for everything - the fancy indicator panel looks cool, but at the same time the warning function is lessened. Is there any after market gadget? to emit a beep for the parking brake when shift stick is out of neutral position? (1st,2nd,3rd gear etc) "

How do you drive with the e brake on and not know it - regardless of any light? Maybe you were busy tricking the seatbelt light? :confuse:

prdm · November 2005

I'm curious to know what car was able to lock up rear wheels using the parking brake?

z71bill · November 2005

My 1999 Silverado Z-71 will lock up the rear wheels if I put the E-brake on - so will my 2001 Tahoe 2WD.

The anti-lock brake system does work if you hit the E-brake.

I sold my 1981 Pontiac Turbo TA about a year ago - it would lock the rear wheel if I slammed on the E-brake.

mazda6s · November 2005

Actually it's a Parking brake not an Emergency brake, isn't it?

prdm · November 2005

Thanks. On every car I've had I run an emergency exercise assuming lost hydraulics and grab for the parking brake trying to make it an automatic response. Been driving for an awfully long time and the BEST result for me has been a rather anemic slow down.

sadiee · November 2005

Thanks for the info.
So far the Dealer replaced my fuel pump (no start)...then I took it back because the check engine light came on, they replaced the valve, and did the reflash for "shift shock", (it did make the car run better)...but as i was pulling out the car hesitated...I brought the tech outside , he said nothign was wrong...then I tried to start the car to leave...I would not start!!! The tech said i needed a starter? So they replaced that...I went back to pick it up, a few miles down the road shaking ans stalling..So now they replaced the Mass Airflow sensor. But they did not say anything about spark pulgs. So when i pick it up...we will see...I am afraid that It will break down again, I really feel that maybe there is something wrong with the car that the techs aren't fixing because there is no TSB for it!! Well I guess I will see tomorrow, and I will post what happens.

Thanks

x5918 · November 2005

I was busy to get home during the lunch break. I think I stopped the car inbetween, to check some papers or something, and then drove away without releasing the parking break. Not sure if it was pulled tight all the way, or just halfway. I sensed somesort of stuffiness. Had to merge to highway. Maybe 2 minutes later checked the parking brake - and stopped to check the damage.

oldmazownr · November 2005

I have a 06 Mazda 3HB. There is that wing thing that shades the rear. I am a little concerned about the AC since I like it freezin' cold year round in my car. It doesn't seem to really freeze like my 98 Chevy S10, or my prior '85 VW Jetta Turbo Diesel, or even my currently owned 1992 Protege. It also makes a bad hum/whiz sound when the compressor is engaged. That worries me a little.

oldmazownr · November 2005

oldmazownr · November 2005

Hate to admit it, but after lecturing wife who drives M3HB daily about hitting the rims on curbs and the low profile tires, I hit a pothole so hard it bent the frt passenger rim.

$350 later we're right as rain. Since we were going on a trip for this holiday I had the break-in oil changed out and that rim fixed. The dealer shop forgot the valve stem cap and the oil check was not oriented correctly to fully seat. Am I too picky? It makes me wonder if they really checked the alignment. It doesn't pull so I think it make be okay. When getting the rim replaced was told tires were $180 each, that normal too?

dride · November 2005

I am now officially in the "Unhappy With Mazda" Club. My brakes started squeaking this week. So loud it was embarrassing. Then the next day, no squeaking at all. I only have 5k on the car. Do I need to wait until they squeak all the time before I take it in? What is the fix for this, grinding down the pads? I didn't have a problem until it got cold here. My gas mileage has also tanked, but that is another discussion.

z71bill · November 2005

Mazda has a TSB for this defect - 04-001/05 2004-2005 MAZDA3 - FRONT BRAKE SQUEAK WHEN COLD - you can read all the TSB info at http://web2.iadfw.net/theman/protegefaq/tsb/tsbmenu.html

Print out a copy of the TSB and take it with you - in my experience it really helps to have it in black and white.

oldmazownr - My theory is the AC problem shows up more in the sedan - even though the HB and sedan have the same AC system - the AC is so marginal (weak) that the extra heat load - from the sun - coming through the rear glass on the sedan is enough to over load the system. IMO it is a combination of several "issues" - the main problem is that the evaperator is too small - this causes the compressor to cycle on and off - so you get cold - cool - warm - cold - cool - warm air about every 15-20 seconds - sure the compressor is designed to cycle on and off - but most cars don't start this quick cycle until the inside of the car is almost cooled off - I can get in my car after it has been in the sun on a 95 degree day - and the AC starts to cycle right away.

I have seen a few posts that claim the evaperator in the 2006 Mazda3 is larger (than the 2004 & 2005) I just dropped my Mazda3 off at the dealership - I plan to stop by the parts department when I pick the car up and ask them to look up the part number for a 2004 & 2006 evaperator - see if they are the same part number-

If you have taken a test drive and don't think the AC is good enough to satisfy you then DO NOT BUY THIS CAR - test drive a few more and see if you can find one with a good AC - because according to some people their cars AC works good. One thing I can say for sure - as in I am 100% positive that this is a FACT - if you get a Mazda3 with a weak AC system Mazda will not fix it - if it is blowing cool air they consider it within spec. This is true even if the inside of the car is sweaty hot. Trust me on this because I have had this problem for almost 2 years.

hsrbikes · November 2005

I was told that, overnight, rust builds up on disc brakes. Once you get going - brake a couple of times - the rust should 'break off'/rub off and no more squeaking. I took my car in 3 times for the same issue. This was the answer I kept getting. And for the most part -- after I brake a couple of times in the morning, mine no longer squeak.

mcap · November 2005

I don't think you should worry to much. I have an 04 civic and sure enough, each morning, there is rust on the brakes. I don't notice squeeling really but I am not listening for it.

dride · November 2005

Yeah, they are so loud when I brake in front of my house in the morning, the kids waiting for the bus cup their ears. I do only notice this in the cold mornings, and cold evenings if I am at work late. This seems like a silly thing to go back to the dealer with, but since there is a TSB...

The brand has been taking a beating in my family...hard starting back in August, now squeaky brakes at Thanksgiving. I can't wait to hear from the old folks, "They sure don't build 'em like they used to!" when I squeak up in the morning.

At least Mazda's customer service has been pretty good (I'd say excellent, but I don't want to jinx myself).

dride · November 2005

I have been tempted to spin some "doughnuts" on some streets with fresh snow. After reading about the E-Brake not locking the rear wheels, this will not be possible in the M3, which will really damper my winter fun. This sure won't be a fun winter car!

dride · November 2005

I jinxed myself. My service advisor (after admitting they were really backed up today)told me if I left it overnight chances are they would not make any changes or adjustments. He is aware of the TSB, but if the squeak only happens on the FIRST brake on a cold morning, they will not fix. Apparently, his Mazda does it too, and it is "just part of the Mazda experience". It's little things like this that annoy me...

z71bill · November 2005

I would PUSH back on the squeaky brake issue and try and get them to fix the noise.

I have owned several vehicles - that on the first few stops in the morning would have a small squeak or more often a slight grind - like SSSHHHH - this is normal - a very loud - long squeak is not.

If squeaky brakes are normal ask the service manager to show you a new Mazda3 with squeaky brakes - if it really is normal then they all should do it RIGHT?

qddave · November 2005

I wouldn't worry about not being able to pull a donut in the snow. The friction of fresh snow is a little less than asphalt.

If you're keeping the stock Goodyears on through the winter, than I really wouldn't worry.

z71bill · November 2005

I picked up my Mazda3 tonight - stopped in to the parts department and ask them to look up the part numbers for a 2004 and a 2006 AC evaperator for a Mazda3 - both numbers are the same - based on this it looks like Mazda has not upgraded the evaperator. So I predict next summer you will see posts from people who purchased a 2006 asking "Is anyone having trouble with their AC not cooling off the car?"

oldmazownr · November 2005

Thanks, yeah, that may be it, although the whizzing sound is a pain. It clears as time goes on. The brakes squeak. I couldn't care about the brakes though. Every disc car from 1983 LeCar to brand new M3HB.

I will mention this, I had a 2001 Volvo S40, it had the same "problem" with the rear brakes wearing first.

Lastly, I will get satisfaction over the AC though. My dealer's first car they sold me was wrecked before they sold it to me. No mention of that, just something I found during a wash and wax thenext day. Took it back... but we'll see about the other... :mad:

lifestar · November 2005

Is it me, or does this forum need to be renamed "Mazda 3's suckie AC bugs me out" forum? I mean, seriously, there seems to be an agreement that the AC on the Maz3 isn't the greatest, but do most of these posts need to be about the AC?

Also, no offense guys, but I always thought the E-brake shouldn't be used while driving. This past week I made my first mistake with my Maz3 when I forgot to put the e-brake handle down, but that was when I was trying to get the car out of a parking space and I was wondering why did it seem sluggish. Unless, you're planning on doing "Italian Job" car moves and don't mind taking the car to dealership to get the e-brake pads replaced afterwards, I personally think using the e-brake for moving situations isn't that smart. Then again, I'm using an auto for my car and really, what do I know? :P

dride · November 2005

Yes, the Goodyear's are sub par, but is it worth shelling out $500.00 for snow tires? I read some good reviews on the Vikings. My deal is that here in MN, the only bad time to drive is right after it snows. They usually have the roads plowed and salted within 4 hours. I can count on one hand the # of times in five years were I was spinning and cursing on an unplowed road. That being said, I always drove on Continental Extreme Contact tires, and they were rated very well for snow, the Goodyears are about the worst tire in the world for snow I have read. So, is there that big of a difference on mostly plowed roads? I am also told with the 17's winter driving will be tough? Is driving on the stock Goodyears in winter a problem, and what snow tire's have people purchased for a solution?

mdaffron · November 2005

Well, here I am for my weekly visit, and I must say we are a whiny bunch this week! I'd like to change the tide somewhat and ask a question of my own ...

Am I the only owner reading this discussion who has had a flawless Mazda3? My 2005 5-speed hatch has 12,500 trouble-free miles on the odometer. Am I odd? Or do I just treat my car properly?

Meade

outingsinc · November 2005

I don't understand how you jinxed yourself in the 28 minutes from your first post....I don't know how many dealers are going to get your car back to you that day when you take it in at 4:17pm..even if you had an appointment I don't see how they could have gotten you in and out that day..Do you have a laptop in your car to be able to write these messages between 3:48 and 4:17?

Outings Inc

outingsinc · November 2005

Nope..your not the only one with a problem free car so far...I just went over 10,000 miles on mine and the brakes don't squeek, the air conditioning is fine for the hot humid chicagoland temps, I don't have a rattle and I'm getting between 27-31 mpg combined on my '05 3s...Been nothing but happy with it

Outings Inc

lifestar · November 2005

Pretty flawless for me too! Car is at the low 12,000's, brakes work superbly (Will stop on a freaking dime!), got new winter performance tires for the coming snow in a few months, getting about 25-27 miles/gallon, and the AC and heater work just fine. The only "problem might be the rattle, but doesn't bug me that much since I usually am listening to the radio or CD most of the time while driving. Plus, the rattle only occurs when I'm going over some rough terrain, like pothole land on MA highways. :P

eoghan1 · November 2005

Just turned 12K on my 2004 5sp HB and my only problem has been the purge valve replacement done under warranty. A/C is marginal. Gas mileage is 27-32. Snow tires required.

lifestar · November 2005

This is kinda sick...but I am looking forward to the Thanksgiving snow that MA will get this Thursday. Want to see how well these Dunlop SP M3 winter tires work. Hopefully I'll be around Friday to write about them!

dride · November 2005

Outings Inc,

It's called a Sidekick man, catch up with the technology, and I do carry a wireless laptop, it is 2005 you know. It helps that I am close to the dealer, and they take appointments until 6pm. I didn't need it back that day, they would keep it over night to check the brakes when cold, but if it only squeaked once, they would not repair. This IS the "problems and solutions" section, most posts here are because we are not happy with a new problem on our M3's. I am glad others have problem free M3's, but this area is for the rest of us WITH problems. Please respect that. We are usually a friendly bunch, I applaud your keen observation skills!

dride · November 2005

I do come here to vent when I have a problem with my car. I don't want to complain to co-workers or family. It is nice to come here to this section because some people understand my frustration since they have had similar problems, and knowing that makes me feel like I am not alone with my car problems. Am I not using this forum correctly? If I did have a problem free vehicle, I certainly would not post about it on a problems and solutions board. Most of us are on this specific board to complain about our M3 problems and support each other by sharing experiences and giving each other advice. When I have a good story, I will post it in the appropriate section. I would like to thank everyone for their input here. It is nice to know I am not alone with my M3 problems!

kagedude · November 2005

My 05 Mazda 3i has almost 19K miles and no problems aside from the glove compartment rattle and the very intermittent 1-2 hard shift. I get about 32mpg hway. Not including the "weak" A/C as its normal spec for Mazda anyway.

mazda6s · November 2005

You could be a little odd.

mdaffron · November 2005

Isn't that why we all chose Mazda3's over Civics in the first place?

chacobleu · November 2005

The e-brake or parking brake is really useful for those with MT, especially when starting from a stop on an incline. It frees up the right foot to allow for use of gas pedal and stops the vehicle from rolling back when forward progress is warranted.

I dont have the owners manual with me, but I recall reading something about avoid using the e-brake/parking brake in cold/frigid temps. This may be possibly due to in-boards literally freezing/seizing up in a locked position. Im not saying this is acceptable or normal, but it may explain some

My compressor sounds like it kicks on automatically when air is being directed ONLY to the FLOOR outlets. Ive never had a vehicle do that before. Is this correct or do I need to take it in for adjustments? Most cars will have the compressor kick on automatically in FLOOR/WINDSHIELD or WINDSHIELD ONLY modes.

Meade
Problems: only problem so far was a check engine light at 8k which turned out to be an evap issue with the gas tank due to the gas cap being loose.
Fix: I insist on filling my own tank regardless of what the half backwards law states in NJ

zz5 · November 2005

I bought a 2005 Mazda3 5door this past July. Today was the first snow and the car did not handle well. I live in snow country and was assured that the car would handle the weather. I guess I will need to buy snow tires. How are the Dunlop SP M3? I know nothing about tires and would appreciate any suggestions. I have never owned a car that scared me like this one did today in the snow. :surprise:

listob95 · November 2005

I'm so glad I found this forum. I am in the same boat as you. I just purchased my 05 M3 3 months ago (traded my Jeep Wrangler 'cause I was tired of the gas guzzling). I thought I'd be ok because I'd always owned Honda's and had good luck with them in the winter. My M3 gave me a good scare today. I was told by dealership that the tires should be ok this winter since they were new. But I've decided to put on winter tires anyway. It was bad enough even finding any because I have 17 inch wheels but now I'm being told it's very rare to find a tire that can be studded. The ones I've ordered are the Goodyear Eagle Ultra Grip GW3's. Does anyone use this tire and can you tell me what luck you've had with them? Is there another tire you would recommend instead?

kyfdx · November 2005

You've stumbled on to a great winter tire..

I've had them for two winters on my BMW 3-series (this would be the third, but I sold the car today).. they have about 12K miles on them, and my tire dealer says they look to be good for about 24K miles...

BMWs are notorious for poor winter traction, but with the Goodyears, it goes like a tank.. I would recommend them without reservation... My size is 225/45-VR17, which is the standard sport package size, and no problems whatsoever... I'm amazed at the traction, turning, and stopping power of them..

regards,
kyfdx
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autonomous · November 2005

In their November 2005 issue Consumer Reports features a timely article about winter tires. Their top choice is the Michelin X Ice which is rated as excellent. The Goodyear Eagle Ultra Grip Ice is third in the list and rated as very good. I have driven on BFGoodrich Winter Slalom for the past three winters and have found them to be an excellent value.

kyfdx · November 2005

The Ultra Grip GW-3 is a different tire... Other tires in this class are the Michelin Pilot Alpin PA2, Bridgestone Blizzak LM-25, and the Continental ContiWinterContact..

The tires that CR tested are all Q-rated tires... Basically, geared to snow traction at the expense of all other attributes (sort of)....

When you get into the 17" sizes, most of the tires are H-rated and V-rated.. different tires for more performance oriented cars.... they don't have the snow traction of the mass-market Q-rated tires, but they have superior dry-road handling, along with pretty good snow traction, considering the sizes..

If I were getting Q-rated tires, I'd have no problem going with CR's recommendations..

My recommendation is from my personal experience, of course...

You could also check here:
Snow/Ice winter tires

regards,
kyfdx
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z71bill · November 2005

Q rating means the tire can handle speeds of up to 99 MPH -

mazda6s · November 2005

Pleeeze ... it's not an Emergency Brake, it's a Parking Brake.

sandman46 · November 2005

The Sandman

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