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Mazda3 Maintenance & Repair

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Comments

  • sandman46sandman46 Member Posts: 1,798
    Still very happy with our Sunlight Silver S auto sedan. Had the brake TSB done and the tranny checked and all is well. We got just what we were looking for, a fun, reliable car that's not at every corner.
    Zoom Zoom y'all!

    The Sandman :)
  • chacobleuchacobleu Member Posts: 228
    I have a habit of keeping all my clocks 4 to 6 minutes (avg. 5 min)ahead of standard time. So, when day light savings time ended in October, I changed the clock in my 3 for the very first time since ownership.

    I put it 5 minutes ahead only to find it about 10 minutes ahead a couple days later. I thought my mistake, so I adjusted it again. Next day, it was about 10 min ahead once again.

    I remembered reading something about possessed clocks in Mazda 3. So, the 3rd time around I set the clock to read exact time. Day later, it was 4 minutes ahead. PERFECT! And it has stayed that way since.

    Morale of the my experience is: IF U CAN'T BEAT'M, JOIN'M!
  • pinstripedbasspinstripedbass Member Posts: 3
    I bought a 2006 Mazda 3i Touring with the 2.0 engine. I have 2700 miles on it to date. I have generally noticed that the engine tends to throttle down while holding the gas pedal steady while driving 50-60 mph. It will drop from 2500rpm to 1750 rpm. I also do mostly city driving and generally get 22-24 mpg. Does any one else notice this with their cars?
  • lifestarlifestar Member Posts: 44
    Hey guys, just recently got a FM transmitter for my iPod that plugs into the outlet in my hatchback. I'm planning on taking my iPod with me when I get out of the car, but can I leave the transmitter in the plug without it draining the car battery? I heard Ford cars had this design issue where if you had anything plugged into the outlet, that your device will drain the car's battery, even when you turn off the engine. Anyone elese knows whether this is true or not with the new Mazdas (since Ford owns Mazda)?
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    That's a good thing, right? It means the car is shifting to a higher gear and you are using less gas.

    If you experiment a bit you will be able to find how to work the accelerator so that it upshifts as much as possible while cruising, to get better fuel economy. I've done that with my automatic sedan and found I can nudge it into 4th driving as slow as 35 mph, and get appreciably better fuel economy.
  • z71billz71bill Member Posts: 1,986
    My Mazda3 S sedan (4 sped auto) shifts into 4th gear at 21 MPH.

    I drive a few school zones every day - at 20 MPH I am in 3rd gear - anything over 20 it shifts to 4th.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    My car turns at about 1400 rpm at 35 mph in 4th gear. I'll bet the gearing on your Mazda is different, otherwise you'd be lugging your engine.
  • pinstripedbasspinstripedbass Member Posts: 3
    I didn't think I would have to finagle the gas pedal to keep it from downshifting on its own. With the amount of city driving I do it can be a problem. I was spoiled with my last car ('94 Accord 132K when I sold it) and it did better on gas mileage in these condidtions, about 26mpg. Maybe I'm expecting too much but 22-24mpg in the city is below the 26mpg/city the window sticker advertised. That was a selling point for me.
  • socalgirl01socalgirl01 Member Posts: 13
    >>Did you get a 4- or 5-door? I've had my 5-door a few days and have noticed road noise to be a slight annoyance. But I just turn up the radio!

    I have a 4 door. The engine is rather quiet..sometimes I forget my car is even on..but the road noise is very obivious..@.@~

    I have been turning my music up as well..thats the only thing i can do before anyone tell me some genius solutions.

    As I was told I should drive nice during the break in period..so I have been driving...super slow..like 35 local, 65 highway. first tank end with 24.5mpg, I am on my third tank now and so far is about 26mpg. I drive to work everyday and 12 out of the 14 miles driving are freeway. I dont think I can do any better than 26 (maybe couple digit better is possible) even if I drive like Jeremy drive Audi A8 on Top Gear (He was driving with super low RPM, almost no break with speed 60 or so....and manage to drive 800 miles with one file of gas (19.8galon) =)
  • dridedride Member Posts: 139
    It will not drain your battery, I leave mine in all the time. I was told it won't drain the battery b/c it is plugged into the cigarette lighter, not an optional outlet. My other vehicle and my wife's do not have "cigarette lighter outlets" instead they have optional outlets, and if I leave my transmitter plugged in on those vehicles when I turn the vehicle off, it does still run and would drain the battery.
  • widow1widow1 Member Posts: 39
    Factory ordered a 2006 Mazda 3s sedan 5 speed. After about 800 miles, the throttle began to stick open under acceleration after I released the gas pedal. Has happened episodically about 5-6 times since - now have 1400 miles on the car. Only recourse is to throw the car into neutral as the car RPMs rev - usually after 5 seconds or so the problem relents. Twice this occurred in urban traffic and the incidents were unsettling to say the least. Took the 3s to the dealer - condition would not duplicate for the Mazda tech. Service Advisor asked if the car was dealer traded as it had a warranty repair record. I said no way - this was a factory order ! Turns out the "throttle body" was replaced on the day the car reached port at Tacoma, WA. Highly displeased with Mazda for not alerting me to this repair as it involved a major safety issue, and I think I should have been given the opportunity to refuse delivery. Mazda Customer Assistance says this was a $19 part. Tried to downplay it. Yet did not offer to replace the original offending throttle body part as the condition would not duplicate at the service department. Said I could leave the 3s at the dealer for 5 days, have service manager drive it, and I get a loaner vehicle. Reluctant to do this for insurance liability reasons. Had a 2004 3i 5 speed so this is my second 3. If I have an accident, there's going to be a lawsuit. Wondering what legal leverage I have against Mazda. Would really like my money back or another car as my wife is too freaked to drive it and I'm gun shy every time I contemplate hard acceleration. Any wisdom out there on how I should proceed with this problem ?
  • daryldaryl Member Posts: 41
    Interesting post. Although my 3 is a 5-spd, I also had a '94 Accord, EX, which I kept until 133,000 miles. Better winter mileage and still a smooth ride. Much as I enjoy my Mazda3, it's not a great cold weather car, and I find myself missing my Accord sometimes.
    Daryl
  • pinstripedbasspinstripedbass Member Posts: 3
    Same here. I do miss my Accord but I am comfortable driving my 3. Just wish the mileage was better.
  • richmlrichml Member Posts: 156
    it's not a great cold weather car

    How come? Other than the OEM tires, what makes the 3 "not a great cold weather car?" I haven't experienced any cold weather-related problems this winter.
  • qddaveqddave Member Posts: 164
    Very frustrating indeed. The dealer will not replace a part unless they experience the issue. They have a responsibility to not just throw money out of the window because a customer comes in and says, "this is broken" or "that is acting up." In now way am I trying to lessen the potential severity of your problem, but understand that they need to properly troubleshoot the issue before they jsut dive under your hood and pick and replace. Ask them if they can hook up a "black box". My parents had one of these installed a while back when their Explorer was acting up. It records all of the computer's actions. You'll have the feeling of a "guinea pig", but it may get to the bottom of the problem. Sometimes it's best for the owner to recreate the problem since a difference in driving style may not achieve the same results. In the mean time, I would consult a lawyer to see what kind of recourse you would have in an accident, say by where you rear ended someone. Typically it's always the fault of the rear ender, but would it be Mazda's fault for not fixing the problem. Or, would it still be your fault because you were aware of the problem with your car and the potential effects.
  • z71billz71bill Member Posts: 1,986
    The guy driving will always be responsible if they ram into someone - it does not matter if the car they are driving has its brakes fail + gas pedal stuck to the floor + the steering goes out - all at the same time.

    In this case can you imagine saying - I told Mazda service 3 times that the gas pedal stuck but they would not fix it!

    Oh - so you knew the car was defective but choose to drive it anyway?

    Not only still your fault - but now you are GROSSLY negligent too boot!

    Mazda may also have some liability - but that does not get the driver off the hook.
  • daryldaryl Member Posts: 41
    It's basically the tires, but I've noticed the fan making some different whining noises. Not a big deal. I park it outside so the tires feel really hard in the cold, naturally. The mileage is way lower in winter, one tank was under 20 mph. I'm usually around 24-25. Maybe saying "not a great winter car" was too generic. It just doesn't seem to like cold weather that much. It feels restricted and not as strong as in summer, but that can be said of a lot of cars.
    On a seperate subject, I take it in tommorow for it's first complaint after 19,000 miles. I feel a pronounced bump coming from the right front. Could be anything from a bearing to an alignment to low air presure but I'm not trying anything until the dealer sees it. Very disturbing. Also dealing with steering while pulling left to the point I'm aware of the effort to keep it straight. Will know more on Tuesay.
    Daryl
  • har1har1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 Mazda 3 with about 21000 miles on it. About 2 months ago, I heard a strange noise and immediately brought it in to Mazda. They first said there was no oil in the car; then said the oil was dirty and the bottom line is that I need a new engine. They will no replace it under warranty and claim that I did not keep up with the regular maintenance. I did but I don't keep receipts. My question to them was why didn't the oil and or engine light come on to warn me something was wrong. They said that's not the issue. To me it is. If the lights came on, I would have had the car in there sooner. Now I'm getting the run around with Mazda saying it's up to the dealer and the dealer saying he needs authorization from Mazda. :mad: In the meantime - no car- paying the car payments and insurance. Has anyone else had a similar problem?

    Thanks
    har1
  • daryldaryl Member Posts: 41
    I've not had that kind of problem, but if I did, and I have in non-auto areas, I would personally go to the top. Contact the area manager yourself, and once you get his take on it, ask who his boss is and how to contact him. Under no circumstances do you want these pewople to know you're going to go quietly.
    Daryl
  • z71billz71bill Member Posts: 1,986
    First - if you did get the oil changed - at least every 6 months or 7,500 miles that would only be 3 - 4 oil changes - even if you used a different place every time how hard would it be to remember where it was - go in there and beg them to look it up and give you a receipt.

    If you paid by check or a credit card that would make it easy (for the shop) to track back to the correct time - or even if you have a check (or a line on your credit card bill) to Jiffy Lube (or whoever) that you could show to the Mazda rep it would give them something to go on.

    I have a limited amount of sympathy for anyone who drives 21K / 2 years with out getting their oil changed - even less for someone who can't take 60 seconds and open the hood - check the oil - coolant - brake fluid once a month (weekly would be better) If you did these things and did get you oil changed I hope you get Mazda to fix your car - but it is clearly your responsibility to be able to prove you did in fact get the car serviced.

    Even though I have had a 23 month battle with Mazda to get my car fixed - and have very limited respect for the way Mazda handles problems with their cars - I think asking a customer to prove that they had the required maintenance completed on the car is normal business practice for every car company.
  • dridedride Member Posts: 139
    The 3 just doesn't handle great in the snow, not that I expected it to. I wonder if it is due to the longer wheel base? The biggest gripe's I have had concerning winter driving:
    1. I had to buy new snow tires and rims.
    2. The wiper fluid reservoir must only be like a third of a gallon, because I have to fill it daily. I do use a lot of fluid in the road/salt spray.
    3. The stock wipers were terrible
    4. On cold mornings, when I get to a stop light, and release the brake to take off, I always hear a noisy "clunk"
    5. My brakes screech the first two or three stops when cold. the colder the temp, the louder the screech it seems.
    6. I am a little disappointed with the winter gas mileage. 25/26 with 70/30 hwy/city (5sp) was lower than I expected, but I did get 28-30 pretty consistently all summer, so it is not that big of a deal.

    I am sure I would experience similar things no matter what type of car I drove. I am EXTREMELY happy with how well the car heats. I don't ever really need to take it off defrost/circulate. This is one of the better heating cars I have had. I wish I would've waited for the 2006 for heated seats, but then I wouldn't have got my Lava Orange ;)
  • ggoinsggoins Member Posts: 57
    we purchased our 3 6 weeks ago,simply awful mileage city 16. runs fine otherwise..and yes easy on the pedal....what IS up with that?
  • ivan_99ivan_99 Member Posts: 1,681
    That sounds horrible…For city I assume you’re making short trips under 5 miles or so? That mileage, city, also assumes you NEVER have it on the highway?

    The worst combined mileage I’ve had was 26mpg and that was flooring it and 5K+ rpm the entire tank. The best combined I’ve had was 31mpg. Strictly highway I’ve only achieved 31mpg as well, I think because I was going a steady 82mph and it revs really high at that speed.

    I suspect if you take it in they will just brush you off…it’s a new car, it needs to be broken in. If everything is running fine, not shaking or anything, and there is no computer error codes then I don’t think they’ll do much.

    16mpg is worse than I’ve had in my 3.5L, 4200lb minivan for city driving (even when new), and not always light on the gas either, AC running all the time, very short trips, etc.

    So you’ve just past 1100mi or so? Maybe it does need more time to break-in…mine was “good out of the box”
  • qddaveqddave Member Posts: 164
    First of all, how many times have you changed the oil? Bill's right, just go back to where you had your oil changed and get the records.

    If I'm not mistaken, the oil "dummy" light will only come on when there is a pressure drop in the oil sending unit. So it should pick up a loss of oil, but I think they usually don't turn on until there's under a quart of oil. And lengthy driving under this condition will toast what little oil you have into molasses. It's not an oil quality sensor. Also, the engine light will not sense anything related to oil. So I'm afraid given the evidence in your post, I'd have to side with the dealer.
  • lifestarlifestar Member Posts: 44
    Out of curiousity where did you get the oil changes? Was it done at the dealership or at a third-party like jiffy lube? There's been an awful amount of talk of how jiffy lube has messed up Mazda 3 owners b/c they don't have the right tools to properly change the oil filters on the 3. The end result usually is leakage and eventually the engine gets damaged b/c all the oil eventually leaks out of the car. I remember reading one guy's story here who basically had jiffy lube pay for the replacement engine b/c they royally messed up. They broke the oil filter sealed and all the oil leaked out while the guy was on the road.
  • waygrabowwaygrabow Member Posts: 214
    Where I work the saying is that if it is not documented, it didn't happen. You had a responsibility to keep good receipts for the oil changes. Did you ever pull the dipstick? It would tell you whether the oil was dirty or low. The oil should have been changed about 20K miles; thus it should not have been dirty. If the oil was gone, how did it escape? Was there a oil stain where you parked the car? Did the tail pipe emit a could of smoke? Turn things around; if you were a dealer would you honor every verbal assertion without verification? I have had clients come to me claiming that they had a sudden problem. Upon investigation, we documented that the problem had been present for months, if not years, and that they had been aware of it but did not get the required maintenance in an attempt to save a few bucks. The check engine light is just one factor in this story. You need a more complete story with better documentation or you will be out of luck.
  • ggoinsggoins Member Posts: 57
    yes, I think so too. we have the vibration at 2100 RPM sent in with comments posted and dealer says that vibe is normal with harmonics (appears to be consistent with the posts). We will probably take it in and have it checked again...currently 1K miles runs like a top otherwise...we are west coast (gas quality?)
  • audia8qaudia8q Member Posts: 3,138
    The 3 just doesn't handle great in the snow, not that I expected it to. I wonder if it is due to the longer wheel base?

    It's the tires.
  • richmlrichml Member Posts: 156
    I think you're right.

    After a bad experience driving with the OEM tires through snow/sleet/freezing rain, I bought winter tires. Over three weeks later, and I haven't seen another snowflake. We're having a (relative) heatwave this week - can't wait for a good storm to try them out!
  • dridedride Member Posts: 139
    What type of winter tires did you get? Did you go existing 17" or buy 16"?
  • lifestarlifestar Member Posts: 44
    Go 16, cheaper and works just as good.
  • bbrich58bbrich58 Member Posts: 1
    Try shifting into a higher gear... say, third?
    I own a 2004 5 Dr, hatchback 5-speed.
    My wife and I recently made a trip from Texas to northeast Pennsylvania and got an average of 32.5 MPG, and that was loaded.
    On the way back, we were dragging a 5'X 8' U-Haul trailer full of stuff, and not very aerodynamic I might add, and got 15.5 MPG overall.
    On the average week I drive 33 miles a day to and from work, in Austin city traffic, and depending on whether or not the A/C is running I can easily get between (and no less than) 25-30 MPG.
    What are you doing to this poor car????
    :confuse:
  • daryldaryl Member Posts: 41
    You must live around Chicago. I realize that had I purchased snow tires, They'd be useless for 90% of this winter.
    Daryl
  • ggoinsggoins Member Posts: 57
    Thanks eh? no real load issues and glad to hear that you guys are getting good mileage...other than that the car runs great....3rd gear,,,that was funny....but really what could cauze that mileage????come ON think!! and thanks!
  • richmlrichml Member Posts: 156
    I live in New Jersey, and bought 17" tires.

    I didn't buy 16" with another set of rims, the store will do free changeovers for the life of the tires.

    I feel like a skier with a new set of skis and no snow.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    do you drive with the heat controls in the defrost position very often? That turns on the AC on most new cars and that will gobble up gas very nicely.
  • ivan_99ivan_99 Member Posts: 1,681
    In summer I had my AC on all the time and had no where near 16mpg.

    My feeling is that there is something wrong, be it mechanical or electronic/computer, with a Mazda3 if it is getting 16mpg.

    Just for comparison, the 2007 Chevy Tahoe city mpg is rated at 15mpg – 5600lbs, 320hp V8.

    Not sure what the solution would be other than going to the dealer.
  • dridedride Member Posts: 139
    I have had my defrost on all the time this winter. It runs constantly. Defrost uses the AC? Perhaps that would explain my poorer than usual winter mileage.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Yep. Try to use defrost as little as possible/necessary and see what happens to your fuel mileage.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    You're going to normally get worse mileage in winter than summer anyway, so if you have defrost on all the time you will get the worst of the worst.
  • moontommoontom Member Posts: 28
    I've read the back posts on this, and I'm still in the dark: does anybody know for sure if Mazda changed/improved the AC system for the '06 3s? (has to be something more than the pollen filter, doesn't it?)

    also the sluggish first-gear problems w/ cold engine (auto trans)?

    thanks in advance for any/all insight....
  • ggoinsggoins Member Posts: 57
    I agree...no the defrost (thanks) I think the valves need to "seat" and until then....we had an incident where a car wash jockey spun the car out but the rev limiter we hope did it's job. took it to the dealer after that,...i do not know if they did a compression tests. they stated the rev limiter is absolute protection.....appreciate the posts.
  • ggoinsggoins Member Posts: 57
    appreciate your thoughts.please see my post 2902 I think.....
  • widow1widow1 Member Posts: 39
    Dealer's Service Department did further research on my throttle issue. Now says that Mazda knew they had a throttle problem on thousands of 2006 Mazda 3s. The throttle's were replaced as mine was when the cars reached port in the States. Something about not enough clearance to accomodate carbon build ups which resulted in the throttle sticking open at a certain RPM level. However, the throttle replacement did not solve the trick and now Mazda has a new fix with a further refined throttle replacement. I'm waiting for the part to arrive and hope it solves the trick. Thanks for the suggestions.
  • mdaffronmdaffron Member Posts: 4,421
    Something about not enough clearance to accomodate carbon build ups which resulted in the throttle sticking open at a certain RPM level.

    ... But I thought carbon build-up was something that happened after thousands and thousands of miles, using poor gasoline? Surely carbon can't build up in a throttle body enough to cause problems on a car's first tank of gas?

    Meade
  • jmillsjmills Member Posts: 77
    Why would you get poorer gas mileage in the winter?
  • z71billz71bill Member Posts: 1,986
    I don't think anyone can answer your question - because no one knows the answer except Mazda.

    But Mazda will not even admit that there is a defect in SOME of the 2004 & 2005 models - I do not see them making some kind of anouncement - LOOK WE FIXED THE AC SO NOW IT COOLS THE CAR!!

    There is no way to know until we get a large number of 2006 Mazda3's on the road AND we also have some nice hot 90+ degree days. That is when the complaints will show up - if the problem has not been fixed.

    Just be aware - since Mazda has decided to not fix any vehicles with the weak - defective AC systems if you do get a bad one then you are stuck. If a good AC is important I sure would not buy one until I could let it sit in the sun for an hour or so on a nice hot humid 90 degree day and test it out for myself.

    Or I guess you could ask a sales person - I bet they will be happy to tell you something like - never heard of that problem - I am sure IF there was an issue it has been fixed - and if a problem ever does come up you have a 4 year 50K mile warranty.
  • mrblonde49mrblonde49 Member Posts: 626
    we had an incident where a car wash jockey spun the car out but the rev limiter we hope did it's job"

    I hope you smacked him in the face... :)
  • ggoinsggoins Member Posts: 57
    well smacking done dawg.
  • widow1widow1 Member Posts: 39
    Problem with throttle sticking open didn't develop on the first tank of gas, but around 1000 miles on the car and about 5 times since episodically after I reached that mileage mark. Will see if dealer's service department knows what they're talking about ( If I explained the problem and fix correctly on this forum thread) when the new "revamped " throttle is installed. Thanks, Meade, for your thoughts on the issue.
    I welcome any thoughts on another issue with a 2004 Mazda 3s sedan I talked my mother into buying and am now on the hot seat over. We put 17" Bridgestone Potenza RE 750's on the car right after purchase and sold the OE Goodyears on eBay. The car vibrated at 55mph from the get go. The Mazda dealer has balanced the tires 4 times free of charge and rotated them once over the last year - she has only 6100 miles on the tires. 8/32 tread depth left. Still the vibration persists. Service manager says the wheels are fine - nothing bent. Finally, we put new tires on the car and had them Hunter road force mounted/balanced to ensure no tires were out of round as we suspected might be the case on the Bridgestones. None were. We went from an ultra high performance summer tire to a Grand touring All Season tire, the Continental ProContact purchased from the Tirerack. Can only conclude problem is with the car. Suspecting the brake rotors as Mazda 3s have had issues with them. Beyond that possibly suspension tightness, wheels bearings ? Any ideas out there ? Mother is about ready to buy a Jetta or Civic as her frustration mounts. Going to call Mazda Customer Assistance and open a case file on the car and see if that lights any fires. Maybe arbitration as dealer has had many opportunities to fix the problem and cannot correct the vibration.
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