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Mazda3 Maintenance & Repair

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  • nifty56nifty56 Member Posts: 279
    lol take it to the dealer and have them test it, maybe they can tell what the hum is. Just a guess, maybe just wind noise.
  • myzoomzoommyzoomzoom Member Posts: 4
    Ya, I may take you up on that. thanks .
  • chacobleuchacobleu Member Posts: 228
    05 hatch: humming noise existed since new

    5th gear only (either it doesn't occur in fourth or the engine noise is louder than the humm)

    No noise when coasting

    Barely noticeable when accelerating

    No doubt about it when cruising

    Though mine starts coming on right after 120 and begins to dissipate right after 140 (think music: crescendo/descendo)

    Turning my head, the humming noise seems to be coming from the driver’s side; can’t tell though if it’s coming through the foot well (indicating the tranny) or the engine bay (indicating, what else, the engine)

    And no, I haven't aprised Mazda of the fact for a couple of reasons: a) too embarrassed b) how are they to test for the humm at illegal speeds?
  • tanchyk2000tanchyk2000 Member Posts: 7
    I know a couple of people who owned different models of Mazda with AT. All of them had problems with transmission - after 60K there is 90% chance that is your AT would fail. Mazda makes good cars but not automatic transmissions that is why I owned one with 5sp manual. You can research more about it but my advise is get rid of the car while it is not too late.
  • mrblonde49mrblonde49 Member Posts: 626
    I know a couple of people who owned different models of Mazda with AT. All of them had problems with transmission - after 60K there is 90% chance that is your AT would fail. Mazda makes good cars but not automatic transmissions that is why I owned one with 5sp manual. You can research more about it but my advise is get rid of the car while it is not too late. "

    Are you referring to the problems with the 626? Different cars, different transmissions...
  • tanchyk2000tanchyk2000 Member Posts: 7
    626 is the worst one. Even Mazda3 is not perfect. The guy changed 2 ATs before 50K - got lucky warranty covered all costs. May be it was a lemon but I still can not trust Mazda with AT.
  • dc_driverdc_driver Member Posts: 712
    What car in the 14-20K price range would you recommend? Every car has its share of issues, but I have not seen many problem posts for the Mazda 3 due to transmission problems (and I am quite sure there are plenty of 50K+ 3's on the road by now).
  • ggeinecggeinec Member Posts: 1
    Check your automatic transmission fluid to make sure it is at an acceptable level . . .

    George
  • dridedride Member Posts: 139
    Can anyone tell me how to adj my headlights, the right low beam shines further out than the left low beam. I didn't think I saw anything in the manual. Typically it's just a matter of turning some screws, but how do you get to them?
  • wendriawendria Member Posts: 1
    i had the same prob. eventually it also was hard to start if i filled the tank all the way. i was afraid to take it to the dealer but luckily it was still covered by waranty. they "fixed" it by changing the fuel pump and spark plugs. i still cant let my tank drop below 1/4 or i have a hard start. not sure what to do now cuz i have over 65,000 mi on my car and not much cash. :cry:
  • qddaveqddave Member Posts: 164
    I'd say it does this by design. Picture driving down a dark two lane country road; 1) the left headlight doesn't shine as far left so that you don't blind oncoming traffic; 2) the extended coverage of the right headlight offers the driver the ability ot see any animals or people on the shoulder.

    Dave
  • tanchyk2000tanchyk2000 Member Posts: 7
    "I noticed the maxda 3i actually gets worse gas milage than better. its automatic and gets stuck in 2nd gear all the time. I have to use more gas just to make it get up and go. My mazda 3s has 10 more horse power. It makes a big difference. Is this a big problem for the mazda 3i?"

    I don't know why some people keep complaining about gas milage. I bought my M3i with MT 2 weeks ago and after second refill (it was almost 800m on speedometer) the MPG I got was 34.6 mixed driving with constant AC on. Notice, who has a new car, I would not recommend to go more than 65m/h in the first 3000m.
  • ex_tdierex_tdier Member Posts: 277
    I don't know why some people keep complaining about gas milage

    Cuz they have lousy gas mileage. :P
  • dc_driverdc_driver Member Posts: 712
    I would agree with you on that, and there are reasons why. This issue (people not getting the EPA numbers) is posted about in nearly every single model forum on Edmunds. In short the EPA tests are broken and it is very likely that many vehicle owners will never achieve the EPA figures. How is the EPA test broken? Here are some highlights:

    Acceleration - The maximum acceleration rate in the EPA test cycles is 3.3 mph per second, about the same as going from zero to 60 mph in about 18 seconds. Don't know too many Mazda3 owners that accelerate from 0-60 in 18 seconds.... I don't...

    Congestion - The EPA tests assume that we only spend 55% of our time in urban driving conditions. The truth is in 1982, congestion added about 7 hours per year to the average person’s annual travel, by 2001, congestion effects had nearly quadrupled to 26 hours per year. The EPA does not account for increased congestion in their testing. Sitting in your car and idling between stop and go traffic burns fuel, plain and simple.

    Overestimating trip lengths—The EPA city test cycle is 7.5 miles long. EPA’s own data, however, indicate that average trip lengths may be only 5 miles long, with typical trips as short as 2.5 miles. I know that I occasionaly make quick trips in my car (5 miles and under).

    Underestimating highway speeds—The EPA highway cycle assumes an average speed of 48 mph and a top speed of 60 mph. Many state highway speed limits are set at or above 65 mph. Government data indicates that fuel economy can drop by 17% for modern vehicles that drive at 70 mph instead of 55 mph. Even at 65 mph, fuel economy can drop by nearly 10% compared to driving at 55 mph. How many people honestly drive 55mph open the interstate? I typically drive anywhere between 70-80mph on the Interstate (with the flow of traffic) and I am not even close to being the leader of the pack.

    Failing to reflect the use of air conditioning—Fuel economy tests are run with the air conditioning off. A/C can account for as much as a 30% drop on MPG figures, especially in very hot climates. In addition the EPA testing is conducted between 68 and 86 degrees (F). Obviously this is not a realistic test for the majority of owners in many hot climates run the A/C constantly. Heck, even our friends in Canada get some hot, humid weather from time to time and have to crank the A/C ;)

    In a study of 303 cars and trucks, model-years 2000 to 2006, Consumer Reports found that shortfalls in miles per gallon (mpg) occurred in 90 percent of the vehicles tested. The largest discrepancies involved city driving, with some models falling short of claimed mpg by 35 to 50 percent.

    So, if you drive your vehicle with the A/C on, accelerate normally (or even worse do very quick starts), drive over 55-60mph on the highway, sit in stop and go traffic routinely, and frequently make trips under 7 miles, you should not expect to get the EPA numbers. Anyone who drives in these types of conditions should expect to get anywhere from 10-40% off the EPA numbers. Plain and simple.
  • heel2toeheel2toe Member Posts: 149
    If you browse CU's testing, fueleconomy.gov, or anecdotal stuff on other forums, the 3i is almost always a very very good mpg performer.

    The 3s, and particularly the 04-05 4AT version, is a bit more mpg challenged.
  • nifty56nifty56 Member Posts: 279
    What size engine does the M3i have? not familar with that model. Different countries different model numbers.
    I think most complaints come from owners with the 2.3 with the auto trans.
  • nifty56nifty56 Member Posts: 279
    WOW dc_driver where do you get all this info from?
    You are just a walking book of info for the Mazda and other issues. Interesting reading though. Thanks
  • tanchyk2000tanchyk2000 Member Posts: 7
    "I don't know why some people keep complaining about gas milage"

    "Cuz they have lousy gas mileage"

    Fresh update on gas milege: Today filled the tank to the top (even spilled a bit over). After driving 348 miles (almost 200m on hwy with speed 65 m/h and the rest in the city) it took 8.6 gallons which comes up 40.46 MPG. Note, the car has only 1200 miles with manual transmission, 2.0L.
    How is that for EPA numbers? :shades:
  • nifty56nifty56 Member Posts: 279
    Great gas mileage. I have the 2.3 with auto. With 100% highway I can get about 40MPG. imperial, not U.S gallons by doing a steady 60 to 62 MPH cruise on, A/C on.
  • grockpilotgrockpilot Member Posts: 4
    Hi, I'm an owner of a 2006 Mazda3 S sedan. I bought the car in October and have 18500 miles on it. Yesterday my check engine light came on. Any ideas as to what it might be? I'm gonna take it to the dealer on Monday and hopefully it'll be under warranty.

    Also, in the mornings, I have really bad starts where my engine idles roughly, shutters, and almost quits. I had a fuel cleaning service done today. When I started the car up from the repair shop, my engine shuddered again. Is it okay since its still cleaning up the fuel system? Should I be more worried that it's something worse?
  • nifty56nifty56 Member Posts: 279
    You really probably didn't need a fuel system cleaning with only 18,500 miles but it won't hurt. Take it to the dealer they will scan it and will be under a warranty fix. You are not the first with this problem. Let us know what the dealer finds. When a CEL comes on take it to the dealer right away and try not to fix it yourself by doing something what you think might fix it. The car is still on warranty so why spend your own money on a fix?
    Good luck...
  • dc_driverdc_driver Member Posts: 712
    Agree with nifty56, let the dealer check it out since it is under warranty. That said, my VW Jetta through the CEL several times because the gas cap was not tight. After I would tighten it, the CEL would turn off in about 2-3 days.

    The fact that your car is starring rough may be an indication of a larger problem. Perhaps the dealer can keep it overnight and start it in the morning for you.
  • nifty56nifty56 Member Posts: 279
    Forgot to add, I use 5W30 syn oil, Mobil 1
    I also shift with the manual mode on the Automatic. I usual start in 2nd gear and shift to 3 than 4th and not go over 2000RPMs. I think this will help with gas mileage in slow moving traffic. But I do push it a little at times.
  • clarissaclarissa Member Posts: 10
    The same thing happened to me, in idle. But it has stalled 3 times, too. I have an automatic. Anyone else have this problem? It's at the dealer right now... since Wednesday and they can't find anything wrong. I'm soooo pissed about it. Someone help.
  • jmnappjmnapp Member Posts: 13
    Mine stalls too. Supposedly there is supposed to be a "flash" the beginning of this month to reprogram the engine computer. I'm hoping to trade my car soon, so I haven't followed up on it. No more Mazdas for me. VW, here I come! If you're going to keep the car, your service manager should check with Mazda to see if the flash is ready.
  • clarissaclarissa Member Posts: 10
    Really? How old is your car? Mine's a 2006. I'm sooo mad they can't find anything wrong with it. This is the second time at the dealer. GRRRRR!
  • brodie2brodie2 Member Posts: 32
    I too had this problem - my 2004 automatic mazda 3 stalled on me at least 8 times. It also suffered from a power surge problem -where the car would just take off without pushing on the gas peddle. Scary and very dangerous. My dealership could duplicate the problem but could never fix it. They also had 6 other cars in their dealership with the same problem. Mazda Canada wasn't supportive at all. They didn't care about my safety at all. Anyway, sold it back to the dealership. They said that they would chase after Mazda Canada to buy back the car since they couldn't fix it after a year and a half of suffering. My best advise to you - log everything, keep complaining, call the owner of the dealership, phone the ministry of transportation, don't give up. Mazda does know this problem exists and its a HUGH safety issue. I too will never buy a Mazda again. Their customer service stinks. :lemon:
  • clarissaclarissa Member Posts: 10
    Wow... thanks for the info Brodie. They say they can't duplicate the problem. I'm so frustrated about it. And it seems like no one is doing anything. Thank you for your insight.
  • obtubeobtube Member Posts: 5
    Faulty Purge valves are also causing a lot of CELs right now with the Mazda3 - it could be that
  • nifty56nifty56 Member Posts: 279
    I don't know why dealers don't invest in a portable scanner. Hook it up to the car and you drive. When the stall or hesitation occurs it will be recorded and is proof it happens. I have heard this story so many times with intermittent problems that the service department can't reproduce leaving the owner frustrated. Maybe a independent garage that does nothing but electrical work would be a place to go.
  • brodie2brodie2 Member Posts: 32
    I've read on different sites that many people both in the US and Canada are experiencing this problem. My dealership was honest with me by telling me that Mazda is aware of the problem but they have no clue how to solve it. Telling customers that they can't duplicate this problem is a way out for them. Keep complaining..... eventually Mazda is going to have to solve it hopefully before someone is really hurt. They replaced so many things on my car hoping to find the solution but never did. Write letters both to the dealership and to Mazda - demand that they fix your car and threaten further action. After a year and a half it finally worked for me. :lemon:
  • retailroyretailroy Member Posts: 8
    On this problem and another I sent complaints with csi reports to the factory. I never heard a peep from the factory, it is as if they don't care.
  • lowprolowpro Member Posts: 1
    Greetings All, I can confirm this as i just yesterday had this problem repaired 7/18/2006 the code which the Check engine light generated in the computer was P2187 which according to the Mazda tech necessitated the replacment of the "Purge Valve"
    but all in all since I've had my 2005 SP23 the small quarky problems that I've expirenced has moved my Grade of the car from an A+ to a B+

    Just my 2¢

    Thanks,

    Lowpro
  • z71billz71bill Member Posts: 1,986
    I had the same problem with my 2004 2.3L - CEL kept coming on - replace purge valve.

    Before they replaced the valve I was getting 22+ MPG mostly city - after my MPG dropped all the way down to 15-17 MPG - for many tank of gas. I didn't ever figure out why - and thought it would be a waste of time to even ask the service department. Hope you don't have the same result.
  • clarissaclarissa Member Posts: 10
    It's been a week and a day and the dealer still has my car. One of the guys even drove the car home to see if it would act up on him in the morning. No one has called me since Tuesday evening. I want them to just give me a new car. I'm soooo tired of this. P.S. I told the service manager about this website and how other websites had people with similar issues. He couldn't respond. GRRRR!!!!! :lemon:
  • brodie2brodie2 Member Posts: 32
    Are you located in Canada or the US. Have you tried calling the Ministry of Transportation to report the safety problem. Call them for an update.
  • clarissaclarissa Member Posts: 10
    I'm in the US. What's the ministry of transportation?
  • dairyshickdairyshick Member Posts: 129
    I'm finally getting the Mazda-specific Sirius tuner kit for my MZ3 Gt this weekend, but my big dilemma is to install it myself and risk dinging up the trim or damaging the radio; or do I just pay the extra $120 and have the dealer install it? I'm also concerned that if anything happens with the radio, even if it's not related to the sirius being installed by me, they'll try to say I caused the problem with the self-install.....I do have a 10% parts coupon that would bring the total parts and installation to about $480 as opposed to the $340 I would pay doing it myself.
    ...besides plugging the tuner into the back of the radio and hooking up the antenna to the tuner, is there an additional power supply running from the tuner to the battery or the stereo??

    Any insight or experiences with this would be much appreciated!
  • mscafmscaf Member Posts: 5
    clarissa, i think that would be the us dept of trans. (DOT) but i think the dept you would want to contact would be your state's dept of consumer affairs...not sure though. bummer about your car, my dad had a similar problem with his lincoln and he had to have it lemon lawed after having the same prob. 3 times, he just did it through the dealer, after getting a lawyer. good luck
  • clarissaclarissa Member Posts: 10
    Thanks mscaf. By the way, I'm using all these posts in my argument against the dealer. He said that there were no problems that he'd heard of. I'm glad you all are helping me! It's not easy being a girl when going to these dealers. They love to take advantage of us. Little do they know I'm doing my research! mwahahahahaha! I just want my car back! :mad:
  • brodie2brodie2 Member Posts: 32
    Use the search button on this site to seach "stalling" I'm sure that will give you enough research to provide to your dealership. Perhaps they haven't given your car back because they can duplicate the problem but don't know how to fix it. That's what happened to my car. They had it over nearly a month at one point.
  • dc_driverdc_driver Member Posts: 712
    "That's what happened to my car. They had it over nearly a month at one point."

    In VA, if the car is at the dealership for service for a total of 30 calendar days or more the first year you own it, it is considered a :lemon:

    Clarissa, check your states lemon laws. At some point, you may have a case. The fact that the car is stalling makes it even more serious...
  • jaesee75edmundjaesee75edmund Member Posts: 39
    anybody getting rust on their wheels? i have an 05 2.3L with 17 inch wheels. i only drive it half the week. after leaving it for a few days outside, i would always see a rust-like substance on the rotors. when i apply the brakes after moving, there would be a grinding noise for a few seconds. car only has 9000 miles. and, the wheels are definitely rusted already. i thought it was brake dust at first, but can't wash it off and it feels sandy to the touch.
  • prdmprdm Member Posts: 145
    Relax, happens to everybody. Rotors are cast iron and rust readily. Pay attention next time you wash the car. Hose the brakes and come back 10 minutes later. You will see rust forming on the rotors. Looks awful but is not a problem.
  • lowd0wnlowd0wn Member Posts: 3
    HI,
    I just recently purchased a Mazda 3 as well and love it!! It is about 6 months old and I have recently found that when I turn right ( right only) I get a squeeking or a rubbing noise coming from what seems to be the left front area of the car. It happened mostly after I have driven for awhile. I slow for the corner by braking and then take my foot off the brake and turn right and the sqeeking or rubbing happens. Not everytime but quite often. I have taken it into Mazda and they have replaced the brake pads and scuffed the rotors(I think they said) but when I got the car back it is still doing it.
    I would appreciate help from anyone on this!!
    Thanks
    Rudy
  • mscafmscaf Member Posts: 5
    hey, i'm not really worried about this, but does anyone else experience a thud from the tranny when shifting out of 1st? I have a 2006 2.3 w/man trans and it sounds like (not all the time) a rock is hitting underneath my car when i shift from 1st to 2nd only sometimes, and usually under harder accel (between 3-4k rpm). Just wondering if anyone had this too.
  • jaesee75edmundjaesee75edmund Member Posts: 39
    hmm, never noticed it on any of my other cars. ok, what about the rusting of the wheels? all 4 of them have some sort of deposit on them. i definitely don't have that on my other car, nor any of the cars i've had before.
  • nifty56nifty56 Member Posts: 279
    Are you talking about rust on the rims? at the center hub?
  • lowd0wnlowd0wn Member Posts: 3
    No, they checked for that. It only happens after the car has warmed up for awhile. And only on a right hand turn. I have had it twice into Mazda and they can't find anything??
    Thanks
  • brodie2brodie2 Member Posts: 32
    In Canada - there is a bulletin on this problem. My car had it - tell your dealership - it's an easy fix.
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