Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Mazda3 Maintenance & Repair

1…8081838586…98

Comments

  • pmckaypmckay Member Posts: 6
    I did a first oil change on my Mazda3 5 door.
    What is the trick to getting the 5-7 plastic screws/bolts out for the plastic pan? I ended up undoing the screws around the front bumper and bending the plastic down to access the drain and filter. What a pain! Can you help me?
    Thanks
    Pete
  • herrkaleuherrkaleu Member Posts: 62
    I have a 2005 Mazda 3 5-door with MT. Driving is semi city in and around Madison/WI. 25,000 miles so far.
    I put winter wheels on and saw that the pad still has some 3-4 mm over that metal-part (not sure about the name). should I think of a pad replacement soon? My driving involves engine braking, that should keep pad wear down. Are there any indicators that squeel when the pads are down? Is it safe to wait for the squeeling? What are typical mileages for pad replacement? I don't want to pay the shop to determine that (after all, they might be biased :-), but I don't want to save on the wrong end.
  • mazdazoommazdazoom Member Posts: 43
    I have a 2004 5 door with MT, the front brakes should have a "tattle-tale" and it will squeal when it is time to replace them, it is there by design and should be ok to wait. HOWEVER, I have noticed that on a lot of mazdas the rear brakes wear out first which is just wierd as most of your stopping power is up front. The rear brakes do not have a tattle-tale, so keep an eye on those. The mileage just depends on the car and the driver/driving style.

    If you go to the dealer for an oil change or other service they should give you a walk around inspection where they also check the pad linings. They will indicate how bad they are which can help you if you trust them. Now it depends on the car but a good rule of thumb is if you are at 1/4" then change your pads, if you are less than that you could be on your way to damaging a rotor. Pads are pretty cheap and really easy to do yourself if you have a guide and some basic tools. So I say safety first and if they get close 1/4" or start to squeal, change them out, or take it to a shop to do it for you. Good Luck
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    If you go to the dealer for an oil change or other service they should give you a walk around inspection where they also check the pad linings. They will indicate how bad they are which can help you if you trust them.

    Agreed. I have asked my dealer for this a couple of times and recorded it to keep track of the rate of brake wear. They do this visually which means it's a rough estimate; ideally it should be done with a tool like a micrometre to measure the pad and rotor thickness. You can also run your fingers against the rotor to see how much "lip" has been created by the brake wear.

    I'm over 93,600 Km (about 60,000 miles) on the original brakes of my Protege5 and still wheeling along!
  • roger341roger341 Member Posts: 59
    04 160hp engine-

    Sounds strange, but ever since car was new, sometimes it won't re-start when turned off for a short time (i.e. under 15 mins or so).

    No crank, nothing. I have to remove the key from the ring and then re-insert it. Car then starts immediately.

    Any ideas? Anyone else notice this?

    Also, with 20,000 miles, the tires need replacing. Any recommendations for tire brand?
  • crosacrosa Member Posts: 1
    Several weeks ago I was able to access your suggested icestormdesign.com site and thought it to be a good resource. Didn't want to download all the pages, however. Now I am not able to get to this site. Any other suggestions for the care and maintenance manual? I'll even just start with oil changes-how-to.
  • eoghan1eoghan1 Member Posts: 58
    I'll take two guesses. 1. You have a key with a bad or polluted chip. Take both keys back to the dealer for re programing or you may have to buy a new key. Do both keys fail in the same way? 2. You have a bad connection in the ignition switch.
  • mkuchytmkuchyt Member Posts: 6
    Are there other people out there that have a problem with the passenger side wiper chattering? This was occurring with the OEM wipers and I just replaced them with BOSCH wipers that are supposed to be chatter resistant and they may even be worse. If people had this problem with the OEM and got new wipers and the problem when away, what kind did you buy?

    Thanks.
  • simsy9simsy9 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 Mazda 3, 2.3L, with manual transmission. The approximate mileage is 80,000.

    Recently, due to mechanic error, I’ve had a lug stud break off. What needs to be done to replace the stud? Can I replace the stud without removing the bearing? If I do remove the bearing, is it pressed on? If so, are there special tools to reinstall it?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    The blade is probably mis-aligned because the arm is twisted a bit. See if you can eyeball how the blade sits on the glass on both sides and see if you notice a difference in the angle. If you do, you can very gently rotate the arm to adjust the angle.
  • blatzblatz Member Posts: 2
    I brought home my 2007 MZ3 hatchback in December 2006. This past June I went out to get in the car in the morning for work and the battery was dead, no warning at all. The dealer replaced the battery with no hassle. Then in late August, the same thing happened. The dealer again replaced the battery. Then earlier this month, it happened again. This time the dealer diagnosed a bad "junction box" and replaced it after 5 days of diagnostics. This past monday, again the battery was dead. The dealer currently has the car and is diagnosing it again. I have contacted "Big Mazda" and have a file number, but can not move farther until the dealer finishes their diagnostics. Every time the battery has died, it starts hesitantly with cables, but it starts. Has anyone else experienced this?
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    Hmm, if I was the suspicious type I'd be wondering if the car escaped the Cougar Ace. cargo-ship-cougar-ace-tips-over
  • siglersigler Member Posts: 3
    I came out of work yesterday to find my car leaking gas in the parking lot. After a trip to the dealership, they said I ruptured the gas tank and that Mazda will not pay for it.

    I did not hit or run over anything on my way to work. The only thing I did do was lock up the brakes to try not to hit a deer.

    Has anyone heard of anything else like this happenning?

    I got the car in July and it only has 7000 miles on it.

    I am very nervous about having the car now. We are going to look at it tomorrow to see exactly where it was punctured, but I might call someone higher up at Mazda and a few other places as well.

    I talked to one mechanic that normally does the work on my cars and he said he has never replaced a plastic gas tank.

    To me it doesn't seem right that a 4 month old car and have a ruptured gas tank.
  • JBaumgartJBaumgart Member Posts: 890
    I seriously doubt that a 5 month old gas tank could "puncture" without getting struck by some kind of object. I think you are right in looking at it yourself and getting a close look at where it is leaking. If there is a sharp hole that looks like it was pierced by something, you may be out of luck. If there is no obvious puncture and it's just leaking somewhere, Mazda should cover it under warranty. But if you end up having to foot the bill and it turns out to be an expensive repair, consider turning it in to your insurance company.
  • mariodmariod Member Posts: 28
    Is your dealer kidding!!! DO NOT accept that B.S!!! Something is wrong with your gas tank... forget about you slamming on the brakes, your gas tank should NEVER leak unless your were HIT HARD....

    Take it to another dealer (don't tell them), or ask the dealer G.M to consider this... If he does not then contact Mazda direct. any car under 12K the dealer will cover anything except a HIT, you were NOT hit........

    this is a safety concern too. don't give up. you will win and enjoy your mazda 3, IT"S A GREAT CAR!!!

    Good luck
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    The dealer would have to show that it was road hazard damage. So a puncture wound basically. If it's a seam opening up, that should be a warranty item.

    This is a "jump ball" until investigated. Be sure you're around when they lift the car so you can see the problem.
  • siglersigler Member Posts: 3
    We are going to ask for it to go up on the lift.

    The dealership said they sent pictures to Mazda and that Mazda said they will not pay for it because it was not on a seam.

    They said an object went in and out the same hole, but I don't see how.

    What do I have to do to request someone higher up at Mazda to be there or someone higher up at the dealership.

    It is really putting a bad taste in my mouth because of the safety issue.

    This is just something I can't image happenning.
  • ahightowerahightower Member Posts: 539
    Try Billy Mays' amazing new Super Putty! Ha ha. Sorry to make light of your situation.

    I'd be furious. As someone else noted, you could make an insurance claim if they refuse. I don't know how much it costs to replace a gas tank, but if your deductible is But I'm thinking there has got to be a defect. If it was that easy to puncture a gas tank, it would be a very common occurence.
  • ircarircar Member Posts: 1
    hi, I have the same problem- what did the dealer say?
  • siglersigler Member Posts: 3
    We went to see the car on Friday evening and the hole is about the size of a pencil tip with no other damage to the car.

    We don't know what to think.

    It just seems insane that this could happen when there is no other damage to the car.

    We have a number to call Mazda now and we will see where that goes.
  • carguy64carguy64 Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2004 Mazda 3 with 48,000 miles. I am the original owner. Oil changes have always been done between 3,000 and 5,000 miles by instant oil change companies. Last change was done 9-22-07. Last Monday, 12-03-07 oil canister cracked and drained all oil from the engine in seconds. Towed car to Mazda dealer. Engine is toast!! Mazda refuses to do anything under warranty because oil was changed at an instant oil change facility. Service manger claims this is the sixth or seventh "3" that has come in with the same causative factor. Dealer wants $7K to install re manufactured 2.3 liter engine. Oil change facility insurance agent is investigating claim? Has anyone out there had any issues with this archaic canister filter blowing canisters? I need help understanding this. Please reply!!
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,349
    I have a 2004 Mazda 3 with 48,000 miles. I am the original owner. Oil changes have always been done between 3,000 and 5,000 miles by instant oil change companies.

    That was your first mistake; at those places you almost always save a few dollars in exchange for incompetent service. A good friend used to be a service manager at a BMW/Porsche dealership. Cars would come in with the drain plug replaced by a rubber stopper. The pit monkeys at Jiffy Boob had stripped out the oil pan and replaced the OEM metal plug with the stopper. Without telling the customer of course. Then there was the joint that pulled the wrong drain plug on a SAAB and drained the transaxle. Of course, they then over filled the engine by five quarts.

    Last Monday, 12-03-07 oil canister cracked and drained all oil from the engine in seconds. Towed car to Mazda dealer. Engine is toast!! Mazda refuses to do anything under warranty because oil was changed at an instant oil change facility.

    I don't blame them; it's not Mazda's fault. The Kwicky Lube guys almost certainly caused the damage

    Service manger claims this is the sixth or seventh "3" that has come in with the same causative factor.

    The plastic oil canister cover and its drain plug are sealed by o-rings and only need to be snugged down to avoid any leaks. The torque values for the plug and cover are clearly stamped on the plastic cover. The borderline sentient employees at your instant oil change joint lacked sufficient brain cells to figure that out and proceeded to over tighten one or both items- hence the cracked cover.

    Dealer wants $7K to install re manufactured 2.3 liter engine.

    Sounds about right.

    Oil change facility insurance agent is investigating claim?

    If you are very lucky they might pay out. Don't hold your breath, however...

    Has anyone out there had any issues with this archaic canister filter blowing canisters?

    There is nothing "archaic" about Mazda's canister filter. More and more manufacturers are adopting similar systems because paper elements are easier to dispose of or recycle. BMW has used a similar set-up since 1995- plastic cover and all. In fact, I have a 1995 318ti with 112,000 miles on the clock and that "archaic" canister is holding up just fine. That said, the only people who have serviced the car have been the dealer, a qualified independent tech, and myself. My MS3 receives similar care.

    I need help understanding this. Please reply!!

    I'm sure this isn't what you wanted to hear, but facts are facts. Those canisters fail due to over tightening. The instant oil change shop should step up to the plate and make things right, but Mazda didn't cause the damage.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • ahightowerahightower Member Posts: 539
    Get all documentation from the Mazda dealer. Ask for written statements/explanations of what caused the damage. You have a valid claim against the quicky lube and should pursue it aggressively. If you have been going to the same place every time, that will help. Ask for copies of their invoices and service records on your car if you don't have your receipts. I'm in the insurance industry, and while I'm not too familiar with garage liability, I do think you have a legitimate claim. Document everything, and don't take no for an answer. Even if the shop claims they didn't do anything wrong and alleges it was a defective part, they are still liable as a seller of that product. They have probably put themselves on the hook with hold harmless agreements with their suppliers. If they want to try and subrogate against the part manufacturer, that's fine, but they are responsible to you. Personally, I wouldn't get an attorney right now, not unless/until they've denied your claim, as that will only cost you money. Insurance companies are used to seeing these types of claims from garages, hopefully they'll treat you right. Keep us posted!
  • carguy64carguy64 Member Posts: 4
    I agree that the people that work at"Jiffy Boob" are not the sharpest arrows in the quiver. You misunderstand my use of their services. It was not to save a couple of dollars. I live in a rural area of South Central OhioIt and the closest Mazda dealer to my home is 60 miles away, they do not have Saturday service hours and I work 60 hours per week.So you see the reason I use quick oil change facilities is a logistical issue not a financial one.
  • retailroyretailroy Member Posts: 8
    Just because you have your car serviced at a Mazda authorized dealer does not ensure great service. I took my mother's mazda which has always been serviced by the local dealer here in Idaho and they stripped out and broke the oil pan and then claimed it was a common problem and wanted to charge for it. After doing a little research with another dealer found out it was a bogus claim and when I confronted them they admitted they screwed up and would pay. The dealerships do like everyone else and usually put their flunkies on oil pit duty, I don' think that the service is any better but might be a little easier to resolve with Mazda who I have found to be a lot less receptive than the old company before Ford. That is why I sold my 3 with 20k and bought a Camry, loved the basic car hated dealing with Mazda factory people who seemed to try to sleaze out of any problems.
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    hated dealing with Mazda factory people

    I think you mean dealing with staff at Mazda dealerships (unless you travelled to Japan for service :surprise: ).

    Service can be problematic if the manufacturer does not provide service information beyond the dealership. In Canada, the independent service garages are mounting a campaign to have manufacturers forced to disclose their service information more widely.

    My experience with my Mazda dealership has been on the whole very positive. I'd recommend getting to know the service advisors, picking one you trust and dealing with him/her on a regular basis. I have had the fortune of finding a straight-talking, knowledgeable and informative one with whom I feel confident doing business.
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,349
    My experience with my Mazda dealership has been on the whole very positive. I'd recommend getting to know the service advisors, picking one you trust and dealing with him/her on a regular basis. I have had the fortune of finding a straight-talking, knowledgeable and informative one with whom I feel confident doing business.

    Ditto.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • retailroyretailroy Member Posts: 8
    Actually I did mean the factory people. It was their lack of concern and deception in regard to the air conditioning, brakes, spontaneous stalling, poor seat cushions that led to me to rid myself of this car. For the most part the local people at another Mazda dealership tried their best but you can not cure an engineering screw up with the ac at the dealership level. I am not a nubie to Mazda, we have owned 11 of them but will probably not buy another for a long time. I am happy that you have been pleased with your service and hope that you do not have an issue that requires the factory, god help you. On two occassions on csi reports after work on the car I addressed specific issues to the factory, zero response, rest assured if I had made negative comments about the dealership, they would have been called on the carpet and I would have received immediate attention from the local dealer, kind of ironic, shortly after the above mentioned problems that I had with the car and many others at this site experienced, my local dealer gave up the franchise.
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    air conditioning, brakes, spontaneous stalling, poor seat cushions that led to me to rid myself of this car

    With what model year of Mazda3 were you having problems?
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,349
    air conditioning, brakes, spontaneous stalling, poor seat cushions that led to me to rid myself of this car

    I've had no problems with any of those items on my 2007; perhaps the parts in question have been upgraded.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • m3fan3m3fan3 Member Posts: 27
    i have a 2006 mazda 3 with a sunroof. just today my sunroof didn't open, it tilted but not opened. after playing around with it i figured out that the rubber around the glass is what's stopping it from opening. i'm assuming that i need to put some kind lubricate or something on it. does any one know what lubricant to use???
  • johnrhortonjohnrhorton Member Posts: 3
    Twice I have had the following problem with my 2005 Mazda3. Drive for awhile, turn the car off and it then fails to start, the engine cranks but will not fire, All warning lights seem to be normal. Come back several hours later and the car starts as normal, again to check engine lights etc. Dealer cannot find the problem. Anyone have a similar problem. Thanks
  • mariodmariod Member Posts: 28
    Do you l live in a cold area? could your roof be frozen?
  • retailroyretailroy Member Posts: 8
    It was a 2004. Never had such a run around on a new car in my life. Replaced it with a 2007 v6 camry se, nice car, but the three was more fun to drive. The factory was absolutely useless, very disappointed. If you have screwed up, try to fix it, not the mantra of the new Mazda I am afraid.
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,349
    does any one know what lubricant to use???

    I would try Wurth Rubber Care.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    It was a 2004

    That was the first model year of the Mazda3. Several owners have posted problems with the AC for that year. Eventually, it got reworked but that's not a solution for the owners of that year's model. That's where good customer relations is critical; manufacturers should recognize these design flaws as early as possible and not shift the blame to customers.

    On the other hand, we customers should be mindful of the possibility of design issues in certain situations (e.g. new model years). Consumer Reports has noted that even the top car manufacturers have problems in their initial releases of a new model. For example, the current Toyota Camry V6 has been experiencing an inordinate number of complaints about the transmission. My brother owns one and so far has had no problems with his.
  • mazdazoommazdazoom Member Posts: 43
    How many miles do you have on the car? Is it due for a tune up? You are certain the engine is getting spark, was that tested?
  • blatzblatz Member Posts: 2
    Update. I have had the car back for a week. The dealer was unable to duplicate the issue of not starter/draining the battery. The "regional technical people" were called in by Mazda to assess the issue. According to the regional tech, whenever he sees this, it's either the alternator, the radio display or the trunk latch. Because none of those 3 were stand out issues with my car, the dealer replaced all three and declared the issue would be taken care of. So far so good. But the dead battery issue usually resurfaces after about 6 weeks to 2 months. Both the service advisor and I are in "wait and see" mode at this point. Hopefully it was one of the 3 items they replaced. :confuse:
  • johnrhortonjohnrhorton Member Posts: 3
    The car has about 35,000, all maintenance is up todate. The engine would turn over fine, it would try to start initially, run for a fraction of a second and then die. It feels more like a fuel issue to me.
  • m3fan3m3fan3 Member Posts: 27
    no i do not. i live in south florida.
  • m3fan3m3fan3 Member Posts: 27
    For my first oil change I did not feel like going to the dealer, so I went to "Jiffy Boob." they however refused to work on the car because they said they have been breaking something on the mazda 3's too many times. I can not remember what that something was(he did tell me what it was, I just don't remember). He said this was not just this location, and that all the other JIffy locations were not doing oil changes for the 3. This is in florida. I can't entirely remember if it was all locations in the state or country. After that I always go to the dealer. I just don't trust any other place. and yes the dealer may make a mistake or two however it is easier to resolve the mistake than at like "Jiffy Boob". (at least at my dealer)
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,349
    After that I always go to the dealer. I just don't trust any other place. and yes the dealer may make a mistake or two however it is easier to resolve the mistake than at like "Jiffy Boob". (at least at my dealer)

    My Mazda dealer has a first-rate service department, and they give me free oil changes every 5000 miles as long as I own the car. I bring my own Mobil 1 5W-30, but it's still a good deal.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • m3fan3m3fan3 Member Posts: 27
    Well, the next day the player magically unjammed itself, so I didn't bother going to the dealer since I wouldn't be able to show them the problem. After that event nothing ever happened to the cd player. But if it is still like that I think you should go to the dealer especially if you're still under the warranty and there shouldn't be any problems replacing it or fixing under the warranty. I had mine replaced for the player freezing up, like a computer would: just freeze. If I would try and change the track or the disc, it wouldn't do anything and the track time would have been frozed up and you can't even hear the player trying to change the discs. But I had the player replaced for that, not for it jamming up the discs. Sorry if I took too long to reply.
  • ahightowerahightower Member Posts: 539
    It doesn't seem logical that the engine swap devalues your car by $1,000. It's not like you had a collision with extensive body and frame damage. If there had been a defective engine part and Mazda had replaced it under warranty, would that devalue the car? I don't know. But if you trust these dealers, then it is what it is. Bummer. I know there is such thing as a diminished value claim, but I'm not very familiar with how those work. The lawyer may cost you a good portion of the $1,000 you're going after, but it's worth getting his advice if the consultation is free. Keep us posted.
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    The lawyer may cost you a good portion of the $1,000 you're going after
    Agreed.
  • retailroyretailroy Member Posts: 8
    I doubt you have a legal case, I am not an attorney but I would think it would follow the same as if you wrecked the vehicle, The insurance company is responsible to make the vehicle driveable if they accept the claim but just as in the case of major body damage the value of the vehicle will be diminished and that is not the fault of the insurance company. I think they are being very fair in paying for an engine repair that seems to be caused by service screw up that normally is not considered a coverable loss, you might open up a can of worms if you threaten them with an attorney. If you are going to hire an attorney I would direct it at the lube shop not your insurance company.
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,349
    If you are going to hire an attorney I would direct it at the lube shop not your insurance company.

    I thought that he was dealing with Kwicky Boob's insurance carrier. If that is the case, he should pursue a diminished value claim- assuming that the reduction in value can be proven.
    FWIW, I used to be an attorney- until I decided to make an honest living... ;)

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • carguy64carguy64 Member Posts: 4
    Two separate dealers have told me that the replacement engine if it shows up on car fax will diminish the value of the car $1000. Maybe I should sue the quicky lube establishment in small claims court for the $1,000. By the way the insurance company for the quick oil change culprit says that in Ohio there is no legal precedence for "diminished value" however if you search the web for cases they do exist and have been won in the past. I have also researched that this is a state by state basis. In Kentucky for example this case would be a slam dunk no doubt winner for the owner ( me). But, I still love Ohio, I was born and raised here. Go Bucks!!
  • toguytoguy Member Posts: 20
    I currently own a 2002 Corolla, which has given me a good service and a very low cost of ownership, both in terms of fuel and maintenance cost. I'm currently looking to buy a Mazda3 (2.0 liter engine and auto), though it's not a final decision yet, and I'm wondering how you find the maintenance cost (I know I'll pay more for fuel and I'm ok with that). I'd be particularly interested to hear from anyone who did the same switch from Corolla to Mazda3.

    Any feedback would be much appreciated.

    Cheers.
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,349
    Any feedback would be much appreciated.

    I have a Mazdaspeed3, which isn't directly comparable. That said, I've found the running costs to be very reasonable. The 5K mile service runs around $50, the 15K is $100, while the 30K costs @$200. Of course, some dealers trie to pad the bill with services Mazda doesn't require. My Dealer doesn't. Note also that you could probably dddo a 7.5K service instead of a 5K. Since my car is turbocharged and I drive it in a rather sporting fashion I use a 5K service interval. The 3 is a great car- in any flavor!

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

Sign In or Register to comment.

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles