Mazda3 Maintenance & Repair

grenoblekl · April 2008

Funny... I'm on here now researching this EXACT same problem for my brother. He has a 2008 Mazda 3 that the engine just blew up on him (he only has 9k on the car) and it was all he could to get it onto the shoulder of the road. When he got out to see what the hell had happened he found out that all the oil was gone. But get this: The MAZDA dealership has always done his oil changes and the last one was done 1200 miles ago. This must be a serious problem with the Mazda 3. We'll see what happens. He's at the dealership what Mazda is going to do to correct the problem.

JBaumgart · April 2008

"But get this: The MAZDA dealership has always done his oil changes and the last one was done 1200 miles ago."

One reason why I have used dealers for routine maintenance, including oil changes. If something goes terribly wrong, they can't try to pin the blame on someone else.

autonomous · April 2008

He has a 2008 Mazda 3 that the engine just blew up on him (he only has 9k on the car) ... he found out that all the oil was gone. But get this: The MAZDA dealership has always done his oil changes and the last one was done 1200 miles ago.

Sounds like a brand new car. How many oil changes has the car had?

ramon1 · April 2008

I'm considering the purchase of an MS3. Are all of you MS3 owners, especially those who have owned the car for a longer period of time, happy with your cars? Any serious mechanical/electrical problems? Is the car a good value? Will it hold up over time? What don't you like about the car? Anything else I should know?

roadburner · May 2008

I'm considering the purchase of an MS3. Are all of you MS3 owners, especially those who have owned the car for a longer period of time, happy with your cars? Any serious mechanical/electrical problems? Is the car a good value? Will it hold up over time? What don't you like about the car? Anything else I should know?

I've owned my MS3 since July 2007. It's been totally reliable over the 16,000 miles I've driven it. Just one problem... It took several months, but the car has reinforced my preference for RWD cars. I'm going to take it to a couple of HPDEs to see how it performs, but I'll probably sell it this summer and find a nice E36 or E46 M3 to serve as my track rat.

ramon1 · May 2008

Yes, for a track car you have to have RWD

roadburner · May 2008

Don't get me wrong, the MS3 is a very nice car, but it looks like it may not be the right car for me.

2ndmazda3 · May 2008

I have an 04 mazda 3s sedan with 129,000 miles. The engine started making a ticking noise at around 1600rpms about a week ago. I first thought it might have to do with the cv joint, but they were fine. So I checked the oil- even though we had just had the car serviced at the dealership 3 weeks prior. No oil on the dipstick. Oil light never came on- neither did check engine light. Put just over 4 qts in. Clicking sound still there, a little more pronounced. Drove the car about 4 miles the next day, and lost every bit of the oil. Left a trail from my driveway to my parking space at work. Called the dealership; they first told me to have the car towed to them at my expense. Went to the dealership in person, told them we got underneath the car, removed the shroud, and the oil filter cap was where the oil leaked from. Service mgr gave me a replacement cap and the tool to remove/install cap. Put new cap on, filled with oil again, and no leaking. Unfortunately, old cap had metal shavings in it. Took car to dealership (60 miles from home), they checked the old cap and found a crack by the metal drain plug in the center of the cap. They put the old cap back on, started the engine, and oil poured out. Now the service mgr says they never touch that drain plug, so the crack isn't their fault. He called mazda rep, who will come to look at car in the next few days. Service mgr gave me the impression that I'm going to have to pay for a new engine- if damage is severe enough. I have all my service records on this car since I bought it from this dealership in Nov 04. Nobody else has touched this engine but them. From what I've read on this forum, this plastic filter cap is prone to breaking. What recourse do I have? I'm trying to stay calm until I hear from the dealership or the mazda rep, but it sounds like they know this is a problem. If the plastic cap fails, and the oil light never comes on, isn't that the manufacturer's fault? What is the point of an oil light if it doesn't come on to warn the driver? I know my car is out of warranty, but considering I have all the service records, a filter cap with a crack, and I've been a loyal customer- this is my 2nd car purchase from this dealership and I've spent about $3000 there on servicing- why should I have to pay for either repairing or replacing the engine? HELP!!

2ndmazda3 · May 2008

please read my post #4281

dride · May 2008

I've had an M3 S (manual) since June 2005. It's been a a decent car:
Pros: It's fun to drive and shift, it's roomy enough for a child seat and two dogs, my fuel mileage averages 28-34, it feels like a well built and solid car, everyone always asks, "what kind of car is that",and the warranty has helped on a few occassions.
Cons: I live in MN and had to buy a set of snow tires b/c w/o them it handled very poorly in the winter, I had spark plugs replaced at 200 miles, then they learned it was the fuel pump, which I had replaced at 500 miles. My latest problem was a faulty PCV? valve which was not getting enough gas to the engine (it was running too lean I was told) so the car just started idiling roughly, and dying at intersections (twice). It was a way sub zero week, and I had a 9 month old at the time, so I let the service manager have a piece of my mind on that one (it was at about 30k miles). In all cases the repairs were covered under warranty, and I was given a free loaner for the repair days. The real reliability test comes after the car leaves warranty period - shortly.

My thoughts are these kinds of problems (except the poor stock tires - and my neighbor swears Goodyear Eagles are the best tire ever made) are pretty typical with most cars, but everyone has a story. I have learned that on boards like this one, most people post when things go wrong with their cars, so the opinions are usually biased. Mazda sells 1,000's of these cars in the US, and although they never lead anything in reliability, they are never towards the bottom either. I paid $16k for mine new in 2005, and that seems like a fair price for the experience I have had so far.

mariod · May 2008

I have a 2005 mazda3 S with 54K on it and i have had ONLY ONE small problem... The engine mount went bad at 45K.

Anything review you read on Mazda3 is always positive... I have NEVER read a bad one. This car is rock solid, in my opinion. Unless you're some young punk beating on it, then maybe you'll have issues.

This Mazda board is getting old, just a bunch of cry babies looking for a place to complain.

Zoom

Mr_Shiftright · May 2008

I don't see this as Mazda's problem but rather the dealer's problem under his "errors and omissions" insurance policy. If you have a receipt from the dealer for an oil change from only 3 weeks ago, and lost all your oil right after that, and if the dealer will not help you, I suggest you seek legal counsel. I think going to the Mazda factory is a dead end; however, there is no harm in pursuing every course of action--you never know---and if you pursue every avenue, that would look better for your case when you present your complaint to the dealership itself.

Of course, should there be road damage under the car, or if the oil wasn't changed by the dealer, this changes your case entirely and tilts it toward the dealer's favor. I don't know the facts of course.

It's very odd, by the way, that your oil warning light didn't go on. You might also check to see if the sending unit is even connected.

Visiting Host

malak · May 2008

I've had mine a little over a year now. For the price it is a great car. Fun to drive. The only complaint that I have is that is scratches easily - I don't think there is a rubber strip to protect against people opening their doors into you in parking lots - or if there is one, it is insufficient.

dride · May 2008

How did you know the engine mount was bad? What were the symptoms? I'm just curious.

JBaumgart · May 2008

Our 2007 now has about 22,000 miles on it. No problems so far - it's been perfect.

2ndmazda3 · May 2008

Thanks for the info. The oil was always changed by the dealership, every 5k- I never had anybody else touch the engine. The service mgr says that the special tool they use to remove the filter cap wouldn't have cracked it. But it clearly says on the cap not to overtighten it. If you overtighten, won't it crack either as you have the tool on or later when there's pressure on the cap? And why did it take 3 weeks for the car to lose all the oil? The dealership called today to tell me mazda won't pay for anything. Service mgr said he's found a salvaged engine for $4500. By the way, a year ago they broke one of the lugs doing a tire rotation and that cost me $200 even though they admitted they did it. They said it was just one of those things...

I have loved this car until now- I've even bought another just like it. Now I'm worried about the new one. I still think it's the nicest car for the price by far.

Mr_Shiftright · May 2008

I think you need to seek legal counsel if they stonewall you. I'm not saying they are in the wrong, but the co-incidence between their oil change, your mysterious cracked oil cap, and loss of all your oil within a few weeks time is very compelling circumstantial evidence. If you can prove that the oil cap can be cracked by over tightening, the ball is then firmly in the dealer's court to rebut that.

energyzer8 · May 2008

Hey there....

I have the same issues with my 2005 Mazda 3. Wanted to see if I you can recommend a lawyer that help you with your case. I also live in California. Thank you

dride · June 2008

I need to change my air filter. Is the cost of a K&N filter worth it? Is there any noticeable improvement in MPG or performance? It's about 3 times the cost of the stock air filter, and I really do not know much about air filters. The guy at Auto Zone said they were the best. Any assistance is appreciated!

mazdazoom · June 2008

I have run K&N in pretty much every vehicle I have had, the engine can breathe much better in my opinion, and if you keep your car for a while the filter will pay for itself over the cost of 2 or 3 paper filters, and you don't need to re-charge them very often. Some claim 10 HP increase, I am not sure it is quite that much in the mazda 3, but you should gain a tad, even though you may only barely notice it.

ahightower · June 2008

I got the K&N filter in my 2008 3i Touring 5-speed manual. I haven't had any difference in gas mileage. I got at least a consistent +1 mpg in all previous vehicles I've owned. This 2.0 is the smallest engine I've had, so I didn't expect as much improvement as I had in my old Mustang or our current Yukon. But what I have noticed, as in all previous vehicles, is a noticeable improvement in off-the-line power and low rpm throttle response. I'm certainly not getting lower mpg, and the K&N filter lasts for the life of the car and pays for itself in replacement cost, so I'd definitely recommend it to anyone.

dol13 · June 2008

We just bought a new Mazda 3 Sedan. We have had it only 3 weeks. The other morning i went out to the car (parked on the road) and it had a big buckle/warp/dent in the roof. The bit above the drivers head was all bent in. There was a small section at the back of the car too that was bent in - all part of the roof. It is damp overnight so dew etc makes the car wet and if it was someone who had walked on the car you would see a foot/shoe print or something like that. There is no scratch/ marks or pant missing from the roof anywhere. Has anyone ever heard of this problem? The metal does not appear to be very thick because when we went inside the car and pushed up lightly on the roof from the inside it bounced right back out (there is still a little dent that won't come out). Could the change in weather make it do this?

igozoomzoom · June 2008

I'll preface this posting by saying that I still enjoy my '06 Mazda3 5-door. In the first 49k miles, the worst problem I had was the sunvisor clip breaking. Most of my previous Hondas had to go back for at least one or two small warranty repairs. After extensive online research, I am inclined to believe that problems such as mine are isolated exceptions and the vast majority of Mazda3's are reliable vehicles.

I bought my car new in 12/05. I had my first oil change at 3k and subsequent oil changes at about 5k intervals. My mechanic mentioned at the second oil change (around 8k) that it was almost a full quart low on oil when I brought it in. After that, I began checking my oil each time I filled up on gas. I quickly realized that my car consumed about one quart of oil ever 3,000 miles! I called the dealer and was told this was within normal specs and no cause for concern.

At 49,200 miles, a ticking/metallic noise developed and I took to the dealer instantly. They advised me the engine needed to be replaced and asked for my maintenance records. They ordered the new engine and put me in a loaner car for the next two weeks. Thankfully, the '06 warranty covered 50k miles unlike the '07 and later which only cover 36k!

I'm now at 56k miles, out of warranty and recently started hearing a whining noise when decelerating to a stop. My mechanic tells me there is a bad bearing in the manual transmission and it needs to be replaced. I've always driven a manual transmission and NEVER had the first problem with one. I racked up 188,000 miles on one of them ('93 Civic) and it still shifted like new AND had the original clutch!

I'm now trying to "persuade" Mazda to warranty the transmission repair. For leverage, I'm using the engine failure and challenging them to prove that the tranny problem isn't a result of the engine problem. I've been friendly but firm so far and I'm hoping that will work. If not, I can and will escalate my persuasive tactics until I get the desired results.

I'm probably going to sell the car once I get this issue resolved. I still love driving it, but I don't trust it anymore....

energyzer8 · June 2008

Well if you need a lawyer..let me know. They are currently working on my case. I was refer to them as well. I truly hope my case get taking care of ASAP since I see what happened to yours =(

mizzoumazda · June 2008

Hi, all. I got a Mazda3 a month ago. It was looking a bit dirty today, not at all gleaming like when I first got it, so I took it in for a basic, automatic wash.

This is a basic question, but I am wondering how often one should get the car washed. My last car was 10 years old, so I had pretty much stopped caring about how it looked, but now obviously I am more into it. Apart from aesthetics, how often should I wash? Should I get a basic wax application during the wash? Underside blast in the summer? I live in Chicago and am not in a spot where I can wash it myself, except in a self-service bay. Thanks.

mazdalemon · June 2008

2004 Mazda3 - I have postings on this site re: my issues. All my service is done at the dealer and within time limits. My engine was replaced @56K. The symptoms: loud ticking noise. Replacement is easier/cheaper for Mazda and dealer. But no diagnosis and I never could get the reason for the engine failure. Received a 12k warranty, stayed on scheduled maintenance and just after the warranty expired (Jan '08)....same issue began: loud ticking. This time the dealership kept it for about 2 wks, kept taking engine apart and putting it back together, same noise. Flew tech in from different state. Finally, and it seemed almost by accident, they found the noise coming from the intake manifold: defective butterfly valves. So manifold was replaced. But I don't know if a screw passed thru into the engine or anywhere else.... Now I hear that the dealership has had two other Mazda3's w/ same issue. I believe the Protoge had this as a recall. And would it be a big leap to think that Mazda uses the same manufacturer for the 3's intake manifold? How do recalls or class action suits get started??

autonomous · June 2008

I believe the Protoge had this as a recall
This is the first I have heard of this. Where did you read this?

How do recalls or class action suits get started??
Class action suits are intiated by a representative of the customer (in short, a lawyer). A recall is initiated by the manufacturer.

energyzer8 · June 2008

I actually hired a Lemon Law Lawyer for my car becaues of the Engine light keeps coming on.

ahightower · June 2008

There's a whole separate forum for washing and detailing tips, not Mazda specific. You'll find lots of info and opinions there. But I'll answer briefly.

In my opinion, the spray on wax you get at an automated car wash is useless and not worth paying extra for. It's better to wash by hand. but if you must go through an automated wash, make sure it's brushless. The spinning brush things can scratch your paint if they are not very clean and well maintained. How often to wash is a personal thing. I'm kind of obsessed so I wash it every other weekend, if there's no rain in the forecast. Apply a high quality wax twice a year (by hand). Always wipe off bird droppings with a wet paper towel as soon as you notice them, so they don't sit too long and get a chance to damage your paint. Finally, check the build date on your door jamb sticker and make sure your car is at least six months old before your first wax job. I've been told it takes six months for the paint to cure, and using a buffer before then could damage the clear coat. (Not sure how true that is, but I figure better safe than sorry.)

eoghan1 · June 2008

Hope you are still with the thread and would appreciate an update on your experience with the Kumho tires or whatever else you've tried.

mizzoumazda · July 2008

Thanks. Didn't notice that other, general thread. Very helpful.

negrolo69 · July 2008

I like to know the lawyer deal. I have 2 mazda 3's. My 2004 blew the engine at 32000. Mazda in Hawaii also tried to blame the oil changes. I did the changes at a few locations and kept the records. They still tried to weasel out and blamed a broken ac compressor bracket bouncing against the engine for the failure. My insurance covered the repair but it took them 42 days to do so. Now the engine mounts need to be replaced and the two middle plugs are wet. I am in the process of selling both vehicles. I can't trust the 2007 even if i bought the extended warranty. Please let me know how to contact the lawyer and if everyone that have had their engines malfunction can join in. Thanks!

ag13 · July 2008

I could use that referal. Mine went 5/26/08 and they are denying my claim for low oil. Of course it was not and they drained it and put it into the recycle bind before showing me.

2freespirits · July 2008

I'm being told I have a unique problem. I bought a brandy dandy new mazda 3s 2.3 4 door in April '08. Car ran like a dream. Fun to drive. Finally found a car whose drivers seat fits me and doesn't make me feel like I've logged a 1000 miles just to get to work. Mileage could be better, but oh well.

This June, we had an actually heat wave here in VT. We usually get our week of summer in July. At 4,700 miles, my car started having this long crank slow to start issue. It only did it when it was warm and the car had sat for longer than 1 hr. After it got running and the rough idle smoothed out, it would run fine. Leave it sit again in temps over 65+F, it would happen again.

I brought it down to my dealer. Luckily they were able to replicate the problem. Unluckily, they had no idea what was going on. The car does not code for anything, no lights, nothing. 'It' thinks everything is fine. They thought it might be the throttle body. Ordered the part, replaced it, same problem later that very same day. I bring it back to the dealer after the weekend, June 26th. They still have it. They have been referring with the engineers at the regional office. They have taken a bunch of parts off of my car and swapped them out on another 3 to see if they could get that car to do it to. They were even told to remove my cars computer and put it in the fridge for a while and then install it and try again.

They have no idea. They have been through all of the electronics in the car. I was told Tuesday when I called, July 8th, that they have now been ordered to replace the motor. The service mgr said they are just guessing and mentioned that maybe I would want to look into the lemmon law. This car has only 5000 miles on it.

I am uncomfortable with owning a brand new car that has been repeatedly torn apart and now will have a (hopefully) new motor. I talked with the dealer manager and told him, I want a new car. He's talking with his regional rep.

Has anybody else had this issue with the 2008 mazda 3s? I like the car, but I'm just not sure I want this one back.

mazdazoom · July 2008

That is very odd, I have never heard of a car having a starting issue like that in warm weather. It sounds like the dealer has really torn into it and found nothing, I would say pursue the lemon law and get you another car. I have two mazda 3's and other than a few minor/standard problems they have been great. Good luck and keep us posted, curious to see how it turns out...

idol767 · July 2008

I haven't had this problem with my Mazda3, but had the exact same problem on my 1991 Acura Integra. It turned out to be a faulty main fuel relay (a small plastic electronic box mounted under the dash). When the weather got hot, the solder joints would expand and not make the correct contact on the part. The car would crank over an over, and not start until it cooled off. I replaced the part myself and never had the problem again. The Acura had 90K miles on it when it happened. I'm not sure if the Mazda 3 has this type of part or not, and if it does, it shouldnt happen with only 5K miles on it. It could be a similar component. If Mazda doesn't get you a new car, see if they will give you an extended warranty. Good luck.

2freespirits · July 2008

We'll see. They are putting in the new motor today. On Monday, the tech who has been working on my car is going to see if he can duplicate the problem with the new motor. I'm hoping they do. It seems absurd that a motor would cause this sort of problem. I'm willing to give a new car another try. I really love how it fits me. It's the first time I've ever had a car fit. I'm fairly short and most cars are made for taller people.

gpmover · July 2008

I bough a 2007 Mazda3 4dr about 15 months ago. Im not having any engine problems as of yet. I currently have 40,000 mile on my car. With the first set of tires I was having pressure problems, but not on my second set.

I only got 30,000 mile on my original Toyo tires. Unfortunately I am on my second set of tires. My concern is that after about 6-8,000 miles I was getting tire noise. I proceeded to get the alignment checked by different places and also rotating tires every 5,000 mile. I currently have BF Goodrich tires on my Mazda3 and after 5,000 miles I am getting the same noise. Originally I thought it might be the Toyo tires. Obviously it is not the tires but some other issue I dont know about.

Is there anyone that is having the same problem?

P.S. The car before the Mazda was a 2004 Toyota Corolla. On my Toyota I was able to get 55-60,000 miles out of each set of tires. That car right now has 145,000 miles and still is running great with the 3rd set of tires put on about 20,000 mile ago. The Toyota is a great car just not sporty enough for me.

m3fan3 · July 2008

I have an '06 mazda 3 with auto transmission. Does anyone know if it is ok to put non mazda transmission fluid in it??? someone told me it'll screw up the tranny if i put non mazda tranny fluid.

thanks

zuly · July 2008

I just bought a manual Mazda 3 2008 brand new and am having the same issue. When I get in the car in the mornings I push in the clutch and give the car gas and it just cranks. I give it a break and try again for around three minutes until the car finally starts. If I have this issue now after only 800 miles. I can only imagine how bad it'll get after a year. I dont know if my 3 year warranty covers it but Im taking it in to get looked at today. Did you have to pay for labor costs if it is under warranty?
Please give me some advice as I am nervous about this issue.

Mr_Shiftright · July 2008

Sure this would be covered under warranty. I'd have them check the pressure in the fuel rail on a cold start. It could be that the pressure is just bleeding down overnight, so that your fuel pump has to work extra harder to re-pressurize the fuel rail so that the car will start.

2freespirits · July 2008

zuly,

Are you stepping on the gas pedal when starting your car? That would cause it to flood. My problem only happens when the temps start going up. To date, I have not heard anything about effective (or not) the new engine is. I will qualify for the lemon law on Sunday.

zuly · July 2008

Just bought a M3 two weeks ago and having the same problem when i start in the morning. In the afternoon it doesnt happen only first thing in the am. What did you do?
Im taking to dealer today!

roadburner · July 2008

Why are you asking about a BMW on a Mazda board?
:P

ylz · July 2008

Hello everyone. I decided I'm buying a 2008 Mazda 3 GT Hatchback. I have two important questions and would love to hear feedback on it so anything would help. First, how is the Navigation in this car? Someone who has the Nav, please comment on this. I mean, honestly I really want it cause it looks good and I'm always travelling and a Nav system would come so in handy. And the second question I have is what color do you guys prefer. I was all set on black until I went to the dealership today and saw metropolitan gray. What a gorgeous color! Its like dark grey but with a touch of blue. Actually, it looks bluish-grayish. I know these two things seem unimportant but it will really affect my decision on this car. Ok, thanks a lot.

mazdazoom · July 2008

Pumping the accelerator should not make it flood, that happens on older cars with a carb, most modern cars are fuel injected and thus pumping the pedal won't flood out an engine. The prior comment on the fuel rail is a great idea, I have seen fuel pumps seemingly work fine but the pressure is slightly below where it is needed to get the proper air/fuel mixture to start. Also, you might have them check your clutch pedal, I have heard of a problem with a switch that tells the computer when the pedal is depressed thus not allowing the car to start, it would be like trying to start it without pressing in the clutch if that "switch" is faulty. Good luck, keep us updated...

scwmcan · July 2008

I do know that having the accelerator pushed seemed to make it so my car would not start (a cut out of some kind), I did this by accident once, had stalled it and was trying to start the car with my foot pressing the accelerator slightly, it would not start, but did start normally when I lifted off the pedal, so I do not think this is the problem the others are experiencing. The car also cranked normally. I think there is something going on with their fuel systems as well.
Scott

joem5 · July 2008

Just bought a M3 and it didn't come with a left foot rest. Iam using a piece of taped card board.
I would apprciate it, if some has a clue how to get one. Just plain old black rubber will do.
Also, it doesn't have to be from a Mazda as long as it fits..
Thanks.

scwmcan · July 2008

I have floor mats from michelin (from costco) that cover the area in my 3. Know it's not exactly what you want but it does cover the area and stop the carpet from wearing out.
Scott

2freespirits · July 2008

Well. They've put the new motor in. Car starts well when it's cool, but still has starting problems when it's hot and humid. It now has 30 calendar days at the dealer which qualifies for the lemon law here in VT. Tried to talk with the dealer manager yesterday afternoon, but he had just left. Called this morning and he was at an auction.

I left a detailed message with his secretary. The service manager told me that the regional rep couldn't come up and check out the car at this time because he's the only rep in the NJ area at the moment. I'm starting to get cranky now. :lemon: :lemon: :lemon:

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