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Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
The Sandman
Sounds good to me as well.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
Best regards,
Shipo
Best regards,
Shipo
I assume that is still only in the case where one meets the vague qualifications for "schedule 1"?
Follow Schedule 1 if the vehicle is operated mainly where none of the following conditions apply.
- Repeated short-distance driving
- Driving in dusty conditions
- Driving with extended use of brakes
- Driving in areas where salt or other corrosive materials are used
- Driving on rough or muddy roads
- Extended periods of idling or low-speed operation
- Driving for long periods in cold temperatures or extremely humid climates
- Driving in extremely hot conditions
- Driving in mountainous conditions continually
The only two that might even remotely apply to how I operate my car are the ones regarding cold temperatures and salt. In my case, yes, there is some salt used in our area, however, sand is the preferred substance dropped on icy roads. As for the cold temperatures, I interpret that to mean moderate trip lengths in cold weather. Given that my typical trip (currently done between 10 and 14 times per week) is 40 miles in length (and almost always on Cruise Control with virtually zero stop and go), the oil has more than enough of a chance to get up to operating temperature, even when the OAT is well below zero Fahrenheit.
So, I am of the opinion that Schedule 1 firmly applies to how I operate my Mazda3. That said, just to be on the safe side, I've kept a sample of the oil and as soon as I find the Blackstone Labs sample bottles I have stashed somewhere in our house, I'll send it in for analysis.
FWIW, I am a synthetic oil bigot, and when the factory oil came out, Mobil 1 0W-30 went in, and that should mean that regardless of the driving conditions, 7,500 mile OCIs are very conservative. Used oil analysis will ultimately prove that out as well.
Best regards,
Shipo
FWIW, I am a synthetic oil bigot, and when the factory oil came out, Mobil 1 0W-30 went in, and that should mean that regardless of the driving conditions, 7,500 mile OCIs are very conservative. Used oil analysis will ultimately prove that out as well.
Blackstone thinks I could easily run a 7,500 mile OCI in my MS3, but since my dealer offers free 5,000 mile oil changes(I do have to supply the M1 ) I go ahead and run a 5,000 mile OCI.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
Best regards,
Shipo
What is "short distance", "cold", "hot", humid"?
"Salt" is clear, but what is not clear is why that would mean one should change oil more frequently :confuse: .
According to your profile are in NH, that = cold in my book, which means schedule 2 definitely applies, IMO. So it must not be clear, since I come to the opposite conclusion from the same set of facts.
What is clear, to me, is that there is almost no where that it is clear that Mazda's schedule 1 applies.
Ford, which uses the same engines, is much clearer. The normal schedule applies unless you are operating in one of the following conditions:
Towing a trailer or using a camper or car-top carrier
Extensive idling and/or low-speed driving for long distances as in heavy commercial use such as delivery, taxi, patrol car or livery
Operating in dusty conditions such as unpaved or dusty roads
Off-road operation
Use of E85 50% of the time or greater (flex fuel vehicles only)
The only time "cold" really affects anything is when you're starting and stopping an engine without ever really warming it up. As evidence of this, I turn to a study regarding oil temperatures of light aircraft that routinely flew on a year-round basis with the same oil. It was found that there was only about a ten degree temperature swing from the oil when a plane was flying in warm weather to the oil in that same engine when the plane was at 10,000 feet while flying over Minnesota on a sub-zero day in January.
What all of this says to me is that the only thing "cold weather" really means is that in the winter months, you need to drive your car further each time you drive it to make sure the oil gets hot enough to make sure the oil boils off any water that has condensed into it.
Best regards,
Shipo
Just like we know that salt on the road has no imact on oil in the engine, yet Mazda says "salt = Sch 2".
FWIW, I don't do UOAs for that reason; however, it's nice to know that they can be used in case of a disagreement.
Best regards,
Shipo
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
I figured $25-30 for one extra oil change per year was not a big deal. Plus I got my first 3 changes for free and I am now expecting to get another free one in exchange for my kid test driving a mazda3. Also every oil change gets me a free car wash, as long as it is not too cold at the time.
BTW, when my car was new I had emailed Mazda about this issue, I sent them these questions:
Can you please clarify some of the terms and conditions that are used to describe conditions under which maintenace schedule 2 applies?
What is considered short-distance driving?
Why does driving in areas where salt or other corrosive materials are being used mean that a shorter oil change interval is required?
What specific temperature range qualifies as "cold"?
Their answer was:
Since our office is not technically trained, I can only stand behind what our owners manual states.
Short distance driving is many city stops. Cold weather, daily temperatures under 40 degrees has an influence on types of lubricants used.
If you have any further questions regarding maintinance or terms and conditions, I have listed a Mazda dealership which there service department can help assist you.
Me:
Can you explain why there is such a big difference in maintenance schedules for the very same 2.3L engine depending on whether it is in the Mazda 6 or the Ford Fusion? According to Ford, my driving would be "normal" this would mean changing oil every 7500 miles. Even the Ford severe schedule is 6 months/5000 miles. Meanwhile with the Mazda6, I am told to follow schedule 2 which means a 4 month interval for oil changes.
Mazda:
I apologize for any confusion you have experienced. I cannot advise you on a Ford Schedule Maintenance Guide. However, I can advise that Mazda North American Operations strongly recommends following the guidelines presented to you in the Mazda6 owner's manual. These intervals were presented this way based on testing performed by Mazda engineers.
I use only Mobil 1 synthetic oil. You are quoting the manual for the service intervals. My manual only states using 5w-20. Is there a reason you are using
5w-30? Will the oil have any trouble with the tight tolerances?
Thanks, Halser
In my case I'm running 0W-30 in my 2009 Mazda3 i Touring (with the 2.0 liter engine) 5-Speed, and like your 2.3, the physical engine block, crank, pistons, heads and valve assemblies are identical to the ones sold in European Mazdas, and those engines call for 5W-30. For the U.S. market, the reason 5W-20 is recommended has nothing what-so-ever to do with tight tolerances and everything to do with getting the best fuel economy numbers.
Best regards,
Shipo
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
Power steering unit decided to function intermittently last year. Now it is completely dead. The dealer wants an arm and a leg and my first born child to replace it. Has anyone else been through the diagnosis and replacement of this unit? Any tips? Do you have to reset the computer after replacement? THANKS!
Have you checked the power steering fluid? Have you ever had it replaced? Do you see any leaks under the engine? Did the dealer quote a new unit or a replacement unit?
I had to have mine replaced last year after I ran over a speed bump the wrong way and created a crack in the unit which slowly dripped out all the fluid. I had a replacement unit installed upon the dealer's recommendation at roughly 1/3 the cost of a new unit. Good luck!
No leaks, Good levels, Not replaced since I bought the vehicle a year and a half ago. The dealer didn't think replacement fluid would have any effect. They quoted me on a new unit and indicated that was the only option. I will have to recheck that. Was yours a rebuilt?
Anyone out there replaced the unit themselves?
Thanks!
Yes. If memory serves, the factory unit was approximately C$2000 and the rebuilt was C$800 (Canadian $ is currently worth about U$.80). In addtion to the unit, you will need to have new power steering fluid and a wheel alignment.
Thanks.
In Maine at camp it gets 20 to 30 below so that the inside hinges on you're camp door frost up.In CO the the Rockies block out alot of bad weather and you have ten straight days of sun and the trees give off heat.
The only thing I know is the Mazda dealer told me to always use semi syn oil 5w 20. The air is thin here and I feel that my Mazda 3 I touring is lagging due to thin air, and the Dunlop tires I put on for the snow.Now, I use 5W 30 in the snow blower.
Maybe ,I should be driving a car such as Roadburner has. A natural aspirated car struggles here. The base lodge is 8000 feet above sea level. Alot of people have GTI's, WRX's and Subie Turbo's
and a million 4x4 pick up trucks .I haven't seen A Mazda Speed here. :confuse:
Best regards,
Shipo
I like the car and after my wifes debacle I drove the car in the proper gear and it drove nicely. The salesperson wanted us to take the car home for the night. We agreed but when we got back out to the lot the battery was low and the car would not start. She was going to jump it again. We left, but agreed to come back tomorrow.
What a bad first experience with Mazda!
Did my wife screw up the trans? If we actually bought the car would the trans later act up.
What about the battery situation has anyone heard or experienced anything like that at a dealership?
Am I crazy for still wanting to buy this car? Any and all advice would be appreciated...Thanks
Look on the door jamb for the manufacture date. It will tell you approximately how long the car has been sitting.
If the battery is completly discharged, it will take a few long highway drives to charge it up completly, or the dealer should put it on a charger to fully charge.
A typical lead acid car battery that has been discharged beyond the safety threshold will not charge ever again, since the PbSO4 pellets fall out of the Pb mesh. It will need to be replaced. Luckily, it will be covered by the warranty and will probably be done before delivery.
As to trans, didn't the high revs alert anyone in the car that it was in the wrong gear?
So, while the situation was less than ideal, the car was probably not faulty....That said, you should NEVER buy a car if you don't feel confident and secure in the purchase! Go drive another Mazda3 at a different dealership. Actually, you could drive the 2009 and 2010 models back-to-back. Hopefully, you'll have a much better experience.
The only potential harm done to your test vehicle is driving the car at a constant speed/rpm for a prolonged period of time. During the first 250-500 miles (the "break-in" period), you should not drive at a constant speed and/or rpm for any extended period of time. I had a 200 mile trip back home when I purchased my '06 Mazda3 back in 12/05. It was all highway and I alternated driving speeed limit, 10mph above and 20mph above speed limit in 10 minute increments....probably overkill.
For your peace of mind, DON'T buy the specific car that you test drove. Tell them you want a different one or go to a different dealer.
Also, at 18.5K miles, while creeping in construction traffic on I-95 I suddenly heard a scratching/scraping sound and a lamp on the panel went off. Scared crepes out of me at first, but after a couple of seconds I realized it was power steering light. Power steering indeed stopped working. Pulled the owners manual and it suggested trying to restart the car. Thankfully, the traffic had come to a full stop so I did not even have to pull over. After restarting, the light went away and power steering was restored. The car has been good for the last week or so, but this was not the most encouraging experience of owning a car that is barely over a year old...
Check under the car for any sign of damage. Once I ran over a speed bump a little too quickly and that bump damaged the underside of the car which became evident by a slow leak of the power steering fluid. You could also mention it the next time you bring the car in for service.
I did check the PS fluid and it has stayed at MAX all the time, so I do not think there is a leak. In my amateur opinion, this must have been an electrical and perhaps not unusual glitch in the system, since troubleshooting of this exact situation is even mentioned in the owner's manual... Hopefully, this will be a one-time occurrence.
Agreed. Happy trails!
I have lubed everything. Unfortunately, it still doesn't work, it always comes back.
I do not know how to fix this problem....does anyone know how to resolve it?
I have the same noise residing in my seat buckle, but since the creaking noise only happens intermittently and mostly at around 40F, I usually forget about it by the time my car is at a dealer for an oil change.
Anyone experiences that? I only have the car for about 2 months. I am thinking taking it back and get them to replace the seat.
Not coming from pedal itself.
Clutch fluid ok.
04 with less than 30,000 miles. Just wondering if this could be serious. No slippage of any kind or any other abnormality while shifting, just this odd noise.
It IS hard to pinpoint the sound, but having checked more than once to try and track it down and finding nothing wrong, the only conclusion left is that some part of the assembly is rubbing just right, under the right conditions to create the squeak.
I've averaged about 175,000 miles on each of my cars with a couple going over 230,000 and have had no clutch issues at all on any of them. If the squeak was "something", I certainly gave it a chance to turn into a problem and it never has.
but my warrenty is over:( Sad thing is, it started at about 26K and i never had time to bring it in. I am at 47K now....you think they will still fix it?