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Mazda3 Maintenance & Repair

1888991939498

Comments

  • mazdazedmazdazed Member Posts: 34
    Does anyone know if the factory gear oil used in the 2009 Five Speed Manual Transmissions is Synthetic or Conventional?
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Don't know for sure, but my bet is probably not.
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,312
    I agree with Shipo. The Mazda service manual specifies a 75W-90 GL-5 oil for the five-speed tranny. Any good synthetic such as Mobil 1 will work fine. Note that the six-speed found in the MS3 takes a 75W-90 GL-4 oil, and for that application I recommend Ford Full Synthetic Manual Transmission Fluid.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • sandman46sandman46 Member Posts: 1,798
    Had the oil changed and the tires rotated early this morning and mechanic said everything is fine with the car...boy was I shocked! Usually try to sell some service that isn't called for in the manual. Since I had a free oil change due me, cost me "$0" so I'm a happy camper. I've stretched out the changes to between 5k and 6k which I think is perfectly fine and he also concurred with this schedule.

    The Sandman :)
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,312
    I've stretched out the changes to between 5k and 6k which I think is perfectly fine and he also concurred with this schedule.


    Sounds good to me as well.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    I just did my first oil change on my 2009 Mazda3 at 7,504 miles. Don't see any reason to change it more often then that.

    Best regards,
    Shipo
  • dclurkerdclurker Member Posts: 57
    Does Mazda still call for oil changes at 7500 mile intervals? If so, I wonder if they would void your warranty because you were 4 miles over. ;-)
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Yup, they still call for 7,500 mile oil changes. ;)

    Best regards,
    Shipo
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    Yup, they still call for 7,500 mile oil changes.

    I assume that is still only in the case where one meets the vague qualifications for "schedule 1"?
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    I'm not at all sure what's vague about it; my manual says:

    Follow Schedule 1 if the vehicle is operated mainly where none of the following conditions apply.
    - Repeated short-distance driving
    - Driving in dusty conditions
    - Driving with extended use of brakes
    - Driving in areas where salt or other corrosive materials are used
    - Driving on rough or muddy roads
    - Extended periods of idling or low-speed operation
    - Driving for long periods in cold temperatures or extremely humid climates
    - Driving in extremely hot conditions
    - Driving in mountainous conditions continually

    The only two that might even remotely apply to how I operate my car are the ones regarding cold temperatures and salt. In my case, yes, there is some salt used in our area, however, sand is the preferred substance dropped on icy roads. As for the cold temperatures, I interpret that to mean moderate trip lengths in cold weather. Given that my typical trip (currently done between 10 and 14 times per week) is 40 miles in length (and almost always on Cruise Control with virtually zero stop and go), the oil has more than enough of a chance to get up to operating temperature, even when the OAT is well below zero Fahrenheit.

    So, I am of the opinion that Schedule 1 firmly applies to how I operate my Mazda3. That said, just to be on the safe side, I've kept a sample of the oil and as soon as I find the Blackstone Labs sample bottles I have stashed somewhere in our house, I'll send it in for analysis.

    FWIW, I am a synthetic oil bigot, and when the factory oil came out, Mobil 1 0W-30 went in, and that should mean that regardless of the driving conditions, 7,500 mile OCIs are very conservative. Used oil analysis will ultimately prove that out as well. ;)

    Best regards,
    Shipo
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,312

    FWIW, I am a synthetic oil bigot, and when the factory oil came out, Mobil 1 0W-30 went in, and that should mean that regardless of the driving conditions, 7,500 mile OCIs are very conservative. Used oil analysis will ultimately prove that out as well.


    Blackstone thinks I could easily run a 7,500 mile OCI in my MS3, but since my dealer offers free 5,000 mile oil changes(I do have to supply the M1 :( ) I go ahead and run a 5,000 mile OCI.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Thanks my friend, that's good to know. ;)

    Best regards,
    Shipo
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    You actually think that is clear...wow! Almost nothing is clear there.

    What is "short distance", "cold", "hot", humid"?

    "Salt" is clear, but what is not clear is why that would mean one should change oil more frequently :confuse: .

    According to your profile are in NH, that = cold in my book, which means schedule 2 definitely applies, IMO. So it must not be clear, since I come to the opposite conclusion from the same set of facts.

    What is clear, to me, is that there is almost no where that it is clear that Mazda's schedule 1 applies.

    Ford, which uses the same engines, is much clearer. The normal schedule applies unless you are operating in one of the following conditions:

    Towing a trailer or using a camper or car-top carrier
    Extensive idling and/or low-speed driving for long distances as in heavy commercial use such as delivery, taxi, patrol car or livery
    Operating in dusty conditions such as unpaved or dusty roads
    Off-road operation
    Use of E85 50% of the time or greater (flex fuel vehicles only)
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    New Hampshire, cold? Where? ;-)

    The only time "cold" really affects anything is when you're starting and stopping an engine without ever really warming it up. As evidence of this, I turn to a study regarding oil temperatures of light aircraft that routinely flew on a year-round basis with the same oil. It was found that there was only about a ten degree temperature swing from the oil when a plane was flying in warm weather to the oil in that same engine when the plane was at 10,000 feet while flying over Minnesota on a sub-zero day in January.

    What all of this says to me is that the only thing "cold weather" really means is that in the winter months, you need to drive your car further each time you drive it to make sure the oil gets hot enough to make sure the oil boils off any water that has condensed into it.

    Best regards,
    Shipo
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    Right I understand that, but that is not what Mazda lists as the criterion, they simply say "cold = sch 2"

    Just like we know that salt on the road has no imact on oil in the engine, yet Mazda says "salt = Sch 2".
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    They can list anything they want; there's no way they can refuse any engine related work (and make it stick) unless they can at the same time prove that it was an oil exhaustion related failure. In my case, all I need to do is to walk in with my UOA results showing that the oil was good to go for my driving habits and all of their arguments go out the window.

    FWIW, I don't do UOAs for that reason; however, it's nice to know that they can be used in case of a disagreement. :)

    Best regards,
    Shipo
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,312
    Note that the 7/10/08 sample included three track days.

    image

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    In my case (with my mazda6), were there no warranty issue, I'd like to change oil (conventional) every 6 months or 5000 miles...which is (or was) Ford's normal schedule. To avoid any potential issues I have gone with Mazda's 4 month interval...which ends up being 3-4K miles for me.

    I figured $25-30 for one extra oil change per year was not a big deal. Plus I got my first 3 changes for free and I am now expecting to get another free one in exchange for my kid test driving a mazda3. Also every oil change gets me a free car wash, as long as it is not too cold at the time.

    BTW, when my car was new I had emailed Mazda about this issue, I sent them these questions:
    Can you please clarify some of the terms and conditions that are used to describe conditions under which maintenace schedule 2 applies?
    What is considered short-distance driving?
    Why does driving in areas where salt or other corrosive materials are being used mean that a shorter oil change interval is required?
    What specific temperature range qualifies as "cold"?

    Their answer was:
    Since our office is not technically trained, I can only stand behind what our owners manual states.

    Short distance driving is many city stops. Cold weather, daily temperatures under 40 degrees has an influence on types of lubricants used.

    If you have any further questions regarding maintinance or terms and conditions, I have listed a Mazda dealership which there service department can help assist you.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    Another email exchange I had went like this:

    Me:
    Can you explain why there is such a big difference in maintenance schedules for the very same 2.3L engine depending on whether it is in the Mazda 6 or the Ford Fusion? According to Ford, my driving would be "normal" this would mean changing oil every 7500 miles. Even the Ford severe schedule is 6 months/5000 miles. Meanwhile with the Mazda6, I am told to follow schedule 2 which means a 4 month interval for oil changes.

    Mazda:
    I apologize for any confusion you have experienced. I cannot advise you on a Ford Schedule Maintenance Guide. However, I can advise that Mazda North American Operations strongly recommends following the guidelines presented to you in the Mazda6 owner's manual. These intervals were presented this way based on testing performed by Mazda engineers.
  • halserhalser Member Posts: 20
    I have a 2006 Mazda 3s. It has 42k with the 2.3 and a manual transmission.
    I use only Mobil 1 synthetic oil. You are quoting the manual for the service intervals. My manual only states using 5w-20. Is there a reason you are using
    5w-30? Will the oil have any trouble with the tight tolerances?

    Thanks, Halser
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Keep in mind that RoadBurner is running a MazdaSpeed3, and the Owner's Manual for that car recommends 5W-30.

    In my case I'm running 0W-30 in my 2009 Mazda3 i Touring (with the 2.0 liter engine) 5-Speed, and like your 2.3, the physical engine block, crank, pistons, heads and valve assemblies are identical to the ones sold in European Mazdas, and those engines call for 5W-30. For the U.S. market, the reason 5W-20 is recommended has nothing what-so-ever to do with tight tolerances and everything to do with getting the best fuel economy numbers.

    Best regards,
    Shipo
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,312
    The Aussie MPS(Mazdaspeed) say that their owners manuals list 5W-40 and higher viscosities as approved oils. Isn't CAFE wonderful? :sick:

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • drprdrpr Member Posts: 3
    2004 with 53K miles
    Power steering unit decided to function intermittently last year. Now it is completely dead. The dealer wants an arm and a leg and my first born child to replace it. Has anyone else been through the diagnosis and replacement of this unit? Any tips? Do you have to reset the computer after replacement? THANKS!
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    Power steering unit decided to function intermittently last year. Now it is completely dead. The dealer wants an arm and a leg and my first born child to replace it.

    Have you checked the power steering fluid? Have you ever had it replaced? Do you see any leaks under the engine? Did the dealer quote a new unit or a replacement unit?

    I had to have mine replaced last year after I ran over a speed bump the wrong way and created a crack in the unit which slowly dripped out all the fluid. I had a replacement unit installed upon the dealer's recommendation at roughly 1/3 the cost of a new unit. Good luck!
  • drprdrpr Member Posts: 3
    Good questions all!

    No leaks, Good levels, Not replaced since I bought the vehicle a year and a half ago. The dealer didn't think replacement fluid would have any effect. They quoted me on a new unit and indicated that was the only option. I will have to recheck that. Was yours a rebuilt?

    Anyone out there replaced the unit themselves?

    Thanks!
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    Was yours a rebuilt?
    Yes. If memory serves, the factory unit was approximately C$2000 and the rebuilt was C$800 (Canadian $ is currently worth about U$.80). In addtion to the unit, you will need to have new power steering fluid and a wheel alignment.
  • drprdrpr Member Posts: 3
    The one that went out is factory original. I will be putting in a rebuilt. I figured on the fluid. Has anyone done the work themselves? I am looking for any tips along the way.
    Thanks.
  • sonnyrockersonnyrocker Member Posts: 127
    You might have a transmission problem there.
  • joem5joem5 Member Posts: 201
    Well, I'll be driving back from Vail Co to Maine and Colorado winters are easier on you than back east.
    In Maine at camp it gets 20 to 30 below so that the inside hinges on you're camp door frost up.In CO the the Rockies block out alot of bad weather and you have ten straight days of sun and the trees give off heat.
    The only thing I know is the Mazda dealer told me to always use semi syn oil 5w 20. The air is thin here and I feel that my Mazda 3 I touring is lagging due to thin air, and the Dunlop tires I put on for the snow.Now, I use 5W 30 in the snow blower.
    Maybe ,I should be driving a car such as Roadburner has. A natural aspirated car struggles here. The base lodge is 8000 feet above sea level. Alot of people have GTI's, WRX's and Subie Turbo's
    and a million 4x4 pick up trucks .I haven't seen A Mazda Speed here. :confuse:
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Semi-Synthetic oil is simply oil that has a mixture of conventional Group II oil and synthetic (sort of) Group III oil. The Ford/Motorcraft 5W-20 is a good example of this kind of oil. Personally, I prefer fully synthetic oils as well as oils that flow better in the winter when cold, and yet are a bit thicker when hot, hence the fact that I use 0W-30 in my Mazda3 i Touring.

    Best regards,
    Shipo
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    Has anyone found an adaptor to convert 2008 (I am sure other years as well) to take spin on kinf of filter instead of the cartridge?
  • moozmoozmoozmooz Member Posts: 3
    Mazda3 auto won't start in park because it doesn't know it is in park ie P light not on. Of course it is in park. I have to put it in neutral to start it. Can sometimes start in park if I wiggle the stick around enough to find the park "sweet spot". Is there an adjustment for this. I took apart the console and couldn't see anything obvious. Anybodt else with this type of problem. 2004 mazda3 auto
  • crowheartcrowheart Member Posts: 36
    My wife and I were test driving a 2009 Mazda 3s Touring tonight. This is how my experience went. The salesperson wanted us to do a test drive. The lot were they kept their inventory was about 2 miles from the dealership, the lot was secured. When we got there the salesperson brought with her a little battery jumper. When she got to the car we were supposed to drive she had to jump it, She said the cars sit to long and need to be jumped many times. Then we had to drive to a gas station with the car on empty so she could put in 10 bucks worth of gas. My wife who was driving the car was driving with the autostick in M instead of D (the selectors are so close together) I thought she had it in drive as well.The trans/engine was whinny all the way back to the dealership by the time we got there we could smell burning. The salesperson told us the burning smell was normal that it was from an oil coating on the engine from the manufacturer. I didn't believe this for a minute.

    I like the car and after my wifes debacle I drove the car in the proper gear and it drove nicely. The salesperson wanted us to take the car home for the night. We agreed but when we got back out to the lot the battery was low and the car would not start. She was going to jump it again. We left, but agreed to come back tomorrow.

    What a bad first experience with Mazda!
    Did my wife screw up the trans? If we actually bought the car would the trans later act up.
    What about the battery situation has anyone heard or experienced anything like that at a dealership?

    Am I crazy for still wanting to buy this car? Any and all advice would be appreciated...Thanks
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    It is not uncommon for lead acid batteries to discharge over time.

    Look on the door jamb for the manufacture date. It will tell you approximately how long the car has been sitting.

    If the battery is completly discharged, it will take a few long highway drives to charge it up completly, or the dealer should put it on a charger to fully charge.

    A typical lead acid car battery that has been discharged beyond the safety threshold will not charge ever again, since the PbSO4 pellets fall out of the Pb mesh. It will need to be replaced. Luckily, it will be covered by the warranty and will probably be done before delivery.

    As to trans, didn't the high revs alert anyone in the car that it was in the wrong gear?
  • halserhalser Member Posts: 20
    I have a 2006 Mazda 3s, with the 2.3 and a 5 spd. Its a great car! I think the whole thing sounds fishy, You are looking for a new car. You would expect problems with used ones. When I was looking there were a lot of dealers here in NJ. I would look for a new dealer with a quality car!
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    The part about the "oil coating" is probably true. Cars shipped from overseas typically have a protective coating to fight corrosion during the sea voyage. It does take awhile to wear off, and it can be smelled during that time, especially if any has been sprayed on the exhaust system. It usually wears off in a week or two of daily driving.
  • igozoomzoomigozoomzoom Member Posts: 801
    The hot/oily smell is probably legit. I've test driven new cars and noticed a smell similar to how it smells after you have an oil change and the mechanic spills some oil on the outer parts of the engine and it has to burn off. Driving a brand new car at a constant, higher rpm (in Manual mode) could exacerbate the smell.

    So, while the situation was less than ideal, the car was probably not faulty....That said, you should NEVER buy a car if you don't feel confident and secure in the purchase! Go drive another Mazda3 at a different dealership. Actually, you could drive the 2009 and 2010 models back-to-back. Hopefully, you'll have a much better experience.

    The only potential harm done to your test vehicle is driving the car at a constant speed/rpm for a prolonged period of time. During the first 250-500 miles (the "break-in" period), you should not drive at a constant speed and/or rpm for any extended period of time. I had a 200 mile trip back home when I purchased my '06 Mazda3 back in 12/05. It was all highway and I alternated driving speeed limit, 10mph above and 20mph above speed limit in 10 minute increments....probably overkill.

    For your peace of mind, DON'T buy the specific car that you test drove. Tell them you want a different one or go to a different dealer.
    2015.5 Volvo S60 T6 Drive-E Platinum, 2012 Mazda CX-9 GT
  • nsbio1nsbio1 Member Posts: 75
    My Mazda developed shaking during braking at 18K miles. Brought it to the dealer - charged me $150 for resurfacing the front rotors. I used to have a 96 Protege and over the life of that car I had pads and rotors replaced more than once, but never did that car have its rotors warped to the point of shaking...

    Also, at 18.5K miles, while creeping in construction traffic on I-95 I suddenly heard a scratching/scraping sound and a lamp on the panel went off. Scared crepes out of me at first, but after a couple of seconds I realized it was power steering light. Power steering indeed stopped working. Pulled the owners manual and it suggested trying to restart the car. Thankfully, the traffic had come to a full stop so I did not even have to pull over. After restarting, the light went away and power steering was restored. The car has been good for the last week or so, but this was not the most encouraging experience of owning a car that is barely over a year old...
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    heard a scratching/scraping sound and a lamp on the panel went off ... I realized it was power steering light ...After restarting, the light went away and power steering was restored.
    Check under the car for any sign of damage. Once I ran over a speed bump a little too quickly and that bump damaged the underside of the car which became evident by a slow leak of the power steering fluid. You could also mention it the next time you bring the car in for service.
  • nsbio1nsbio1 Member Posts: 75
    Thanks, autonomous. I will definitely bring that up the next time I am at the dealer.

    I did check the PS fluid and it has stayed at MAX all the time, so I do not think there is a leak. In my amateur opinion, this must have been an electrical and perhaps not unusual glitch in the system, since troubleshooting of this exact situation is even mentioned in the owner's manual... Hopefully, this will be a one-time occurrence.
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    Hopefully, this will be a one-time occurrence.
    Agreed. Happy trails! :)
  • mazdazedmazdazed Member Posts: 34
    Does anyone know the model number and manufacturer of the 5 speed manual used in the 2009 Mazda 3?
  • stacylimstacylim Member Posts: 1
    I have been chasing a creaking noise for weeks - it sounds like it is coming from the area where the seat belt attaches to the car - I still can not exactly ensure where it is from.

    I have lubed everything. Unfortunately, it still doesn't work, it always comes back.
    I do not know how to fix this problem....does anyone know how to resolve it?
  • jandrjandr Member Posts: 4
    My red 08's stock tires/wheels appear to be scraping the paint off of the inner part of the rocker-panel trim pieces. I travel on a couple miles of bumpy dirt road every day but not at breakneck speed. Anyone else experience this problem?
  • nifty56nifty56 Member Posts: 279
    Get the adaptor from your Mazda dealer, its the filter housing used on the 2.0 it bolts right on. no mod necessary
  • nsbio1nsbio1 Member Posts: 75
    It is a known thing with a number of Mazda3s, for which there is a Technical Service Bulletin. Bring it to your dealer and they will fix it for you.

    I have the same noise residing in my seat buckle, but since the creaking noise only happens intermittently and mostly at around 40F, I usually forget about it by the time my car is at a dealer for an oil change.
  • sonnyrockersonnyrocker Member Posts: 127
    My driver seat is having some abnormal wear and tear. The lower area where it supports my back - on the left side soft plush black area - the fabric surface is getting a lot of fuzz and linen pop up.
    Anyone experiences that? I only have the car for about 2 months. I am thinking taking it back and get them to replace the seat.
  • roger341roger341 Member Posts: 59
    Started to notice a short squeaking noise when clutch is released while changing gears.

    Not coming from pedal itself.

    Clutch fluid ok.

    04 with less than 30,000 miles. Just wondering if this could be serious. No slippage of any kind or any other abnormality while shifting, just this odd noise.
  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Member Posts: 9,372
    It's probably just a squeak coming from the pedal assembly itself rather than anything wrong with the clutch. I've occasionally had a similar squeak on almost every one of my cars since 1980 and it always seems to happen when the weather is changing from colder to hotter or drier to wetter, something like that. And it's always on the release of the clutch pedal. The good news is that it has ALWAYS gone away after a short time, although it does drive you crazy wondering what's going on when it first starts up.

    It IS hard to pinpoint the sound, but having checked more than once to try and track it down and finding nothing wrong, the only conclusion left is that some part of the assembly is rubbing just right, under the right conditions to create the squeak.

    I've averaged about 175,000 miles on each of my cars with a couple going over 230,000 and have had no clutch issues at all on any of them. If the squeak was "something", I certainly gave it a chance to turn into a problem and it never has.
  • abchin486abchin486 Member Posts: 78
    I have the same problem....

    but my warrenty is over:( Sad thing is, it started at about 26K and i never had time to bring it in. I am at 47K now....you think they will still fix it?
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