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2013 and Earlier - Mazda3 Prices Paid and Buying Experience

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Comments

  • salina02ussalina02us Member Posts: 6
    Thank your for your reply, but I still have some questions. Is the retail price the same as the invoice price; what is the manufacture suggest price? The dealer always include the destination charge around a few hundred dollars more after, does the charge include the invoice price? Can the destination charge be negotiated?
  • waygrabowwaygrabow Member Posts: 214
    Forget retail price; forget MSRP; that is just what the dealer would like to get in his fondest dream. Invoice price is the best basis for negotiation. It has some relationship to true costs. Using a well-deserved plug for our host, I have used Edmunds for over 20 years; let them educate you on holdbacks, rebates, and the other details of car prices. Look and read their on-site articles. When you visit a dealership, bring printouts of the numbers and model information. Let the dealer know that you have done your homework; it will limit the BS. Also find your own financing before you start shopping.

     

    May I also suggest that you use the internet to contact the internet managers from several dealerships? That way you can cut out the greasy, desperate, ignorant salesman and immediately communicate with someone who has the authority to give you real numbers. With little effort you can solicit multiple price quotes. I had a firm price before I ever visited the chosen dealer on my Mazda3, and I had already eliminated my local dealer as a shifty slime ball.
  • salina02ussalina02us Member Posts: 6
    Thanks for your information. I will try your suggestion. How about the Regional Adjestment $139 & the Destination Charge $545, can be negotiation or not?
  • JingleJillJingleJill Member Posts: 120
    I am in the process of negotiating on an '05 4drS 5spd.. MSRP is $20,630 (spt, abs, moonroof/cd, xenon, and leather)...Currently we are around $19,663 plus a FREE window tint. How does that sound? (The dealers do not want to budge on the '05s. Heck, they are still stingy on their '04s, but hubby insists on leather.)

     

    Thanks,

     

    Stacy
  • waygrabowwaygrabow Member Posts: 214
    It is my understanding that the destination charge and regional adjustment are not negotiable. If you click on "Tips & Advice" and then "Buying" from Edmunds home site you will find a long list of articles that may interest you.
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Administrator Posts: 11,146
    The basic rule is that if the charge on the window sticker, it's not negotiable. If additional destination and/or regional fees are added on to the paperwork in the F&I room, then you are certainly able to negotiate them off the contract.

     

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  • SylviaSylvia Member Posts: 1,636
    Make sure the window sticker is the factory sticker and not the dealer's sticker.
  • buchtabuchta Member Posts: 5
    Has anyone found a Mazda3 dealership in the DC-Baltimore-Northern Virginia area that makes a better than usual deal on a Mazda3? We live near DC and are in the market for a 3i, manual with safety, air and power options.
  • lighttxlighttx Member Posts: 1
    I am currently in the market for a new or slightly used car. I wasn't even considering a 3 until I came across a local Mazda ad advertising "thousands off on 2004 3's". So I went to the dealership this evening to take my first look and test drive of the 3. I was impressed enough to discuss price and exactly how much of a discount they were giving. They only had 3 left and one of them was the exact match I would want in that model.

     

    The car in question is this one:

     

    2004 MAZDA3 s 4-Door $17,135

    160-hp 2.3L DOHC 16-valve I4-cylinder Standard

    4-Spd Auto $900

    MOONROOF & 6-CD PACKAGE $890

    SPORT PACKAGE $490

    CARGO NET $40

    COMPASS/AUTODIM MIRROR WITH HOMELINK $300

    REAR WING SPOILER $350

     

    Total MSRP: $20,105*

     

    So I asked the salesman what the discount was that was mentioned in the add. He asked to run my credit etc... and I said No, I'm wanting to know the discounted price of the car before I even begin to consider negotiations. So he went away for about 15 mins and come back with an "invoice" and said they would do $100 over invoice ($18,200) PLUS an additional $1000 off. So he said $17,200 if I buy tonight. Of course I didnt buy, and I said I would think about it...(he acted suprised) Sticker price $20,105

     

    I thought this was a good deal, but didnt want to jump on anything as I am not in any hurry. What do you guys think? I have no idea what these 2004's should go for in early 2005 and I really liked the ride and reviews.

     

    Let me hear from ya! And thanks in advance...
  • orpheusorpheus Member Posts: 4
    Not until I stumbled upon Edmunds, did I ever even consider the M3. Now that I have done alot of research, I see that is far and away more car than the Honda Civic I was originally considering. So, today I went to test drive a AT, M3s w/these pkgs:

    xenon and TPMS, Sport Pkg, Moonroof and CD stacker, ABS/SAB/SAC Pkg, Leather. The sticker price was 25,079. I told him that was too expensive so I was going to go look elsewhere. He then told me not to worry about that price but "the other" sticker price that said 21,700. He then told me that they were offerring 1500.00 off rebate on 2004's. So this now made the price roughly 20,000. I called another dealer who said he'd beat that and offerred me the same car @ 19k. I called the other dealer back and he said he'd beat that and add a spoiler. So with the spoiler and all the other pkgs does 19k before taxes sound like a good deal?
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Administrator Posts: 11,146
    Hate to be the one to tell you, but you should've "bought tonight." :) If you think about it, $17,200 is like you're getting all of the options for free. Go back. Claim unexpected illness. If this is the car you want, you're getting a fair deal.

     

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  • z71billz71bill Member Posts: 1,986
    If it was true it would be fair - actually be a good deal.

     

    But I would bet that is not the deal you will get - first of all the dealership is obviously a bunch of dishonest crooks. First they show you a sticker price of $25K - then pull out another (more realistic) sticker.

     

    I bet they have all kinds of additional charges that they will add (or at least try to add in) before the deal is done. Maybe make the deal - but you need to use their financing.

     

    Good luck.
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 235,188
    I think orpheus might be talking in CAN$.. no flag next to his name..

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  • real decoyreal decoy Member Posts: 1
    Hi,

     

    Just got back from the dealer here in Wayne, New Jersey. Here's what I paid:

     

    Mazda3s/ABS Package/Moon Roof Package/Moon Roof Deflector

    18700.00

     

    Vehicle Etch - 159.00

     

    Tax - 1131.54

     

    Motor Vehicle Tire Fee - 7.50

     

    Registration/Title Fee (4 years) - 239.00

     

    Doc Fee - 199.00

     

    TOTAL - 20,436.04 Out the door

     

    Did I do OK?

     

    Thanks.
  • orpheusorpheus Member Posts: 4
    Sorry all, I am a rookie at this. I am in the US.
  • orpheusorpheus Member Posts: 4
    z71bill- I think you might be right about these guys being shady. They are a huge Mazda dealership around here. The fact that they seem a little shady makes it easier for me to be more assertive with exactly what I will pay etc. It's funny you said that about using their financing. They were sweating me about that to no end before I left.
  • z71billz71bill Member Posts: 1,986
    Many years ago I had a chance to get a great deal on a new car - the only catch - the dealership would only give me the deal if I used their financing. The interest rate 24% - this was back in the June of 1980 - and back then prime was about 12% (with Jimmy Carter's economic policy - prime hit an all time high of 21.5% that year). I took the deal - but before I signed got my bank to approved a loan - Think I got a rate around 14% - it chopped $50 a month off of my payment - I did end up with a 24% loan - but only for a few days.
  • audia8qaudia8q Member Posts: 3,138
    Many car makers, including mazda, have incentives that are tied directly to financing with the automakers finance arm....

     

    example....right now, there is no consumer rebate on the 2004 mazda3...but if you finance thru mazda credit at standard rates, mazda credit offers a $1000 MAC cash consumer rebate. if you opt to finance from another source you don't get the $1000 rebate.
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 235,188
    Question... How long do you have to keep the loan, and still get to keep the rebate?

     

    If the rebate was coming from MazdaUSA, then I would guess you could re-finance it right away. But, with the rebate coming from MAC, I would guess they have some sort of minumum time requirement?

     

    regards,

    kyfdx

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  • z71billz71bill Member Posts: 1,986
    It was 25 years ago! No rebate - just a shaddy car dealer trying to rip off a kid & it was not a Mazda - 1980 Pontiac Turbo T/A - which is today one of the all time biggest lemons ever produced - Last time I saw the list it was number 9 (still behind the Pacer and Gremlin). The sad part is I totaled it out - to add insult to injury - my insurance company bought me a new one - 1981 Turbo T/A - could not find a 1980 with the Turbo - and I only had to pay the $100 deductible. Then they charged me $2,000 a year for car insurance until I was 30. I will give Pontiac some credit - after going off the road at more than 100 MPH -trying to miss a cow that was on the highway - hit a culvert - and went end over end over end - my T/A looked like a VW bug - but I still walked away. No air bags back then - just lucky.

     

    All I can say is read the fine print - I have never seen a CAR loan that you could not pay off early - but you never know - maybe today they would make you pay back the rebate.
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 235,188
    I wasn't suggesting that you couldn't pay off the loan early... but, if the finance company is giving you $1000 to borrow the money from them, I'm sure they could specify a minimum amount of time the loan would have to be in force... and, if not met... they wouldn't have to "make" you pay it back.. They could just hike your payoff amount by $1000.

     

    Ford and Chrysler credit have these same rebates... and, I see others ask the question all the time.. So far, no dealer has had a definitive answer.

     

    regards,

    kyfdx

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  • 68mpolo68mpolo Member Posts: 21
    Hello,

    I bought a '04 Mazda3 hatch auto, ABS/SAB, Moonroof/6CD in April '04, currently with 13,000 miles, garage kept/washed and waxed frequently(basically excellent condition).

    My current financial situations being what they may, I am seriously entertaining trading the car in for cheaper car to bring the montly payments down.

    How much would my car have depreciated by now?

    Is this even a good idea?

    This is my first new car and I'm unsure on what to do.

    Any suggestions/comments would greatly be appreciated.

    Thanks.
  • audia8qaudia8q Member Posts: 3,138
    90 days

     

    lot's of folks say they will pay it off or re-fin early....but the stats show very few people do.
  • daryldaryl Member Posts: 41
    I think that's a pretty good deal with the leather and xenons. Personally, I would pass on the window tinting and have them throw in something else, like wheel locks. It's a good price.
  • daryldaryl Member Posts: 41
    Go back and buy it!
  • angelabangelab Member Posts: 2
    has anyone here had an a orz plan price on a RX8
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 235,188
    Thanks, Rich....

     

    I agree... I doubt many people would..

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  • accountantaccountant Member Posts: 3
    the $1000 off is Mazda incentive on 2004's. Also look into $500 for college grads (within 1 year of graduating)

     

    Most dealers are looking to move 04's, so the deals can be pretty good.

     

    They can throw in the nets, mats, and other dealer installed options at low cost to nickel and dime the cost down those last few dollars.

     

    PS see if they will throw in free oil changes for 1 year. That is a nice dealer giveaway that can sweeeten the pot.

     

    Hope this helps.
  • grant4grant4 Member Posts: 1
    2005 Mazda3s hatchback

    Automatic

    Xenon/TPMS pkg

    Moonroof/CD pkg

    ABS pkg

    Leather

     

    $21,700 out the door ie including 6% DC sales tax, title/tags the lot.
  • cticti Member Posts: 131
    grant4,

     

    Have you test-driven this car yet? You are looking at a Mazda3 with the same options I am looking for.

     

    Anyway, it looks like the MSRP of your set up is 21,545 including destination charge. Adding 6% sales tax gives a price of $22,838 (assuming destnation charge gets sales tax added to it). So your car is $1100 below this AND you get all the other fees included.

     

    Invoice + 6% is $21,122. Six hundred over invoice OTD sounds like a good price. I hope I can get a deal like that when I go to the dealership tomorrow.

     

    I'd take the deal.

     

    Jason
  • z71billz71bill Member Posts: 1,986
    Is this the first price the sales person gave you? OR - Have you been negotiating for days before ending up with this price?

     

    Why does this matter?

     

    If this is the first price then chances are you can (without much effort) get a lower price. Most dealerships will follow the same formula -

     

    The first price is (almost) never their best price - during negotiations they slowly lower it down - hoping to get the customer to agree to buy before they get down to the lowest price that is acceptable.
  • neomonkeyneomonkey Member Posts: 32
    Ok, I need the boards input and help. I am going to purchase my car on Saturday Feb 19, 2005. Not to brag, but I have more than enough money to buy the car with a cheque. Now the dilemna I am facing is whether to go with the 0% Financing over 2 yrs OAC or to take the 750 cashback incentive. I've received arguments for both sides. Are there any tricks to the 0% financing? I am leaning more towards the financing but to me, there is no such thing as free money. So there has to be a catch. Can anyone give me a little more info and some more direction.

     

    My argument for financing is so I can keep more $ in the bank and let it earn interest or find other investment opportunites. All about opportuniy cost. Most ppl tell me that the interest is actually rolled up into the price of the car or they will try to get me to buy the ext warranty. Or I could be simly denied, but my credit is good. No late payments on any of my accounts. Ever.

     

    I would appreciate any feedback that you guys have. Thanks.
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 235,188
    When in doubt.. take the money..

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  • z71billz71bill Member Posts: 1,986
    To answer this question I would need to know the amount you would finance at 0%. Then it is easy to calculate the interest rate that you are paying - I think you understand you are paying $750 in interest over the 24 months. If the rate of interest is less than the rate you could earn by investing your money - then take the loan. If the rate of interest is more than you can get investing then take the $750 and pay cash.

     

    A few other things -

    The rate should be adjusted for any income tax impact - I know 0 about Canadian tax system - but I assume you would pay income tax on the earnings - if your tax rate is 20% then take the % return you think you can get by investing and multiply it by (100-20) = 80% because that is what you get to keep. I assume you can't deduct imputed interest on the loan.

     

    Lets assume you are financing $24,000 - then the rate on the loan is really 3.07%

     

    If you finance $20,000 then it is 3.69%

     

    $18,000 - 4.12% ; $28,000 - 2.62%

     

    One more thing - maybe obvious - but if you ever pay the loan off early you lose the benefit. So if you trade cars after a year - or total the car you will lose.
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    When in doubt.. take the money...

     

    I would second that!
  • neomonkeyneomonkey Member Posts: 32
    Well here is the deal. The interest rate for 2yrs previous to February was 5.9%. They have now dropped it to 0%. My OTR price will be about 25,000-25,500. So that is the amount in question. I can leave my money in savings and earn about 2.4% interest. I've already done calculations and taking the loan at 0% WITH NO STRINGS ATTACHED, NO TRICKS involved. That would be the best deal. I just need some more input on the loan. Are they going to try to screw around with you? etc etc

     

    When in doubt, take the money. Short and simple by kinda makes sense!
  • modockmodock Member Posts: 55
    This is a simple accounting thing called present value. If you want to mess around with the numbers here is the excel formula that would calculate the present value of your situation. =PV(0.024/12,24,25500/24)

    The 0.024 is the interest you make in savings per year which is why it is divided by 12. The 24 is the number of payments and then the 25500/24 is your payment amount.

    Now if I was looking for an investment and wanted to buy your loan and make the 2.4% interest I would pay 24,873 for it. So it would be paying me 627 dollars interest over the two years.

    So unless you are going to make more than the 2.4% interest I would take the money.

    Corey they accountant
  • neomonkeyneomonkey Member Posts: 32
    Thanks for you input Corey, much appreciated. Keep it ocming though, I deal on saturday. Thanks guys.
  • neomonkeyneomonkey Member Posts: 32
    My dilemna is that I have close to 50 grand in the bank which gives a return rate of 2.4%. So if you look at 2.4% of 50,000 it is about 1200 a year in interest. You multiply that by 2 years and its close to 2400. From my standpoint, it'd be more beneficial for me to take the financing. But overall, I hear more arguments to take the cash.
  • z71billz71bill Member Posts: 1,986
    You should take the rebate and pay cash - If you "finance" $25,500 over 24 months at 0 % rather than take the $750 rebate - then you are - in reality financing $24,750 ($25,500-$750) over 24 months and your payment will be $1,062.50 per month. ($25,500/24)

     

    This loan has an imputed interest rate of 2.88%. Since this is a higher rate than you are earning -even before income tax- you will be borrowing money at 2.88% to invest it at 2.4%.

     

    Just to make the example easy to understand - if you put $24,873.40 in a savings account earning 2.4% and drew the money out of this account to make your payments the amount of interest you would earn would be $626.60 (24,873.40 + 626.6 = 25,500). So after you make your last payment the account would be down to zero.

     

    So your choice is to set aside $24,873.40 in savings or just pay cash for the car today in the amount of $24,750.00 -

     

    You will be $123.40 ahead if you pay cash!

     

    If you pay income tax on the $626.60 of interest you will come out even worse.

     

    Take the cash.
  • neomonkeyneomonkey Member Posts: 32
    Thanks for the input. I appreciate how most of you wiser and more knowledgeable ppl are helping me out. This is my first car and its a new car as well. So I appreciate all the input. Alot of people have pointed towards taking the cash as well. Thanks again..
  • moxymoxy Member Posts: 2
    This is my first time buying a car and I would appreciate some feedback. I have been negotiating with several dealerships via email & phone for a Mazda 3s 4dr with the following options:

     

    Automatic

    ABS Pckage

    Sport Pckage

    Moonroof/CD pckage

     

    After some negotiating the lowest I have gotten it to is a price of $19,700 Out The Door. this price includes 7% tax, $55.39 doc fee, $143 for plates, etc.

     

    I also received $500 off as part of an auto show incentive. They are also going to throw in a free cargo mat per my request.

     

    I value your input/thoughts on this price. I have learned a lot from your past comments and opinions.

     

    P.S. The salesman is telling me that I am getting it for below invoice. Originally he wouldn't bring it down to the price I wanted and so after thanking him for his time I hung up. But lo and behold he called back 10 minutes later... $19,700 out the door.. I thought it was good at first but now I'm not so sure..what do you think?
  • ikeedumikeedum Member Posts: 10
    I paid about $600 more but got leather. So about right, it pays to shop around.
  • cticti Member Posts: 131
    Well, I did go to the dealership and, lo and behold, I bought a Mazda3 hatchback. My very first car bought all by myself! I'm a big boy now. :)

     

    Options:

    Just like yours, grant4 -

    Automatic

    Xenon

    Moonroof/6 CD

    ABS etc.

    Leather

    Sunlight Silver

     

    Price:

    invoice +

    $300 +

    $249 doc fee +

    $30 in other fees +

    7% sales tax

     

    I live in Augusta, GA and am stationed here at Fort Gordon. I searched the Mazda website and it just so happened that the car I wanted was at the closest dealership.

     

    I have been looking to replace my 2000 Kia Sephia bought used in 2002 since last April. The Kia was only a stopgag measure for my wife (then girlfriend) and me. She went to Hawaii and bought a New Beetle which she adores. I got the junky (but CHEAP) Kia.

     

    Thanks to this website and the many forum contributors I was much more knowledgable and confident than when my wife and I went to get her Beetle.

     

    Called the dealership up on Friday. Asked if the car I was looking at was still there. He said it was and that I could come by tomorow and look at it (don't they always...). He was cheerful in a creepy way - like a dog that is too eager to please. I said I would.

     

    Heeding the repeated advice, I called my credit union and secured a loan for 17,500 at 2.9% interest BEFORE I went to the dealership.

     

    After reading the horror stories from isellhondas and others about people making appointments and not showing up, I actually WENT on Saturday eventhough we didn't set a time. Test drove the car and tested the car out making note of the plusses and minuses that all of you have noted.

     

    My sales droid looked into getting financing through Mazda while he let me take the car for a solo spin. He played the "What kind of payments are you looking for?" game but stopped after my reply. He forthrightly told me that it was unlikely that he could do better. He couldn't as the best he could do was 7.9%.

     

    Walked into the GM's office and this is where things turned strange (in a good way). I could see, upside down, a buy order on his desk. He said that he used to work up in Norfolk, VA and dealt with lots of Navy people and he had just come down to Augusta recently. Augusta has an Army base (but I'm in the Navy...) and he had introduced a price plan for military people - $300 over invoice. Thanks to Edmund's I could see that was indeed the price on the sheet. I confirmed that the $249 I saw on the sheet was the doc fee. It took me less than 5 seconds to say yss.

     

    Stunningly painless.

     

    I mentioned to the GM what I had told the sales droid at the outset. I had secured the loan but I didn't actually have the check yet. Plus, while I had enough for the remainder, I didn't actually have it readily available. They didn't care. They said I could write two checks. One for 17,500 and one for $4400. They would swap checks when I brought in the loan check and they would deposit the other check when I had the money. They acted so much like eager to please puppies it was creepy.

     

    Jason

     

    I love the car, by the way. It is exactly like the reviews and all the owners here have described it.
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Administrator Posts: 11,146
    Maybe instead of "creepy" they are just nice, forthright salespeople. They do exist, you know!

     

    Congratulations on a great buying experience, and I hope you love your new car.

     

    kirstie_h

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  • amg1040amg1040 Member Posts: 3
    Has anybody had any luck with any deals on the SP23 models???
  • cticti Member Posts: 131
    Nope. I DID talk to a very nice gentleman at Mazda who looked up on his computer and was able to look up SP23s that were in the pipeline.

     

    Most of them appeared to be arriving in April/May.

    Jason
  • massimomorinmassimomorin Member Posts: 6
    I did manage to get a SP3. I still have to give 1/2 of the payment and sign the paper but still... it has my name on it :)

    Here in Boston it was pretty HARD to find one. Saying I got a deal... well it is hardly the case but, the car looks just great. Anyhow here you go:
    Mazda 3Sp 3 hatchback
    leather burgundy interior
    moonroof
    security package
    MSRP $21,545 got it for $20,995
    on top of this I had to add:
    1. Sale tax $1049.75
    2. DMV place exchange $65
    3. Paper handling fee $140

    This for a grand total of $22,249.75 (ouch!)
    I got a trade in so I had to discount that but this is a pretty accurate figure.

    Hope this help. Good luck!

    :-D

    Max
  • dave27dave27 Member Posts: 4
    Interesting how so many prices get knocked around....I bought my 3 last Feb, for $1000. under MSRP (not invoice, which is a different thing) Since the 3 was then and still is a hot car, dealers weren't getting any of the manufacturer kickbacks so common with the American cars. So if they get invoiced $20k they can't sell it to you for $19.5k without going broke.

    I built my car on the website, then did a dealer search with the max radius. Then I chose a different ZIP & built it again. Did this four times from Clevelan to Minneapolis, and found 4 cars that worked for me. Called the dealerships directly, asked "is this car...vin# xxx still for sale on your lot" One was actually still on the boat from Japan, but listed as inventory with a Chicago dealer!! No middleman dealerships...just sell me the car you've got for the cheapest price. Guy in Minne offered at $1000 below MSRP, and another in Milwaukee matched it. Minneapolis was ready to sell it to me with a credit card deposit over the phone! If not for the extra distance, I would have gone there.

    Just thought I'd pass this along
  • rdyrdy Member Posts: 36
    Mazda3 2005 Hatchback.
    A local dealer is offering 2k off msrp.
    MSRP 17650.00 inc dest.
    Invoice 16539.00
    That puts it around $900 under invoice. So there is factory - dealer cash obviously as there doesn't appear to be customer cash anywhere I can find.....
    Am I missing something here? Where are they getting the money from and is there any more I can negotiate with?
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