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2013 and Earlier - Mazda3 Prices Paid and Buying Experience

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Comments

  • z71billz71bill Member Posts: 1,986
    The holdback on this car is about $340 (Mazda uses 2% of BASE MSRP) This means the dealership is selling it for about $550 BELOW their true cost. I have bought a few cars for less than dealer cost (invoice - holdback) so it is possible. Sometimes dealerships need the cash - like to make payroll or pay their taxes. If this is a real deal take it - you can't do much better (although it never hurts to try)

    My best guess is when you get in there the deal will fall apart. They will offer you nothing for your trade - & or they will have some made up fees that total $900+ or they have added a bunch of dealer installed stuff on the car - paint & fabric protection that costs them $25 is listed for $1,200 - or I had one dealership (Landmark Chevy in Houston) just put something called "ADM" for $2,500 at the bottom of the sticker. ADM stands for additional dealer mark-up. It made their offer of $3,000 off every car on the lot advertising seem like of lame.

    Let us know what you find out.
  • rdyrdy Member Posts: 36
    I had called up prior to posting. I very specifically confirmed with the Manager, that I could buy the car for $15650 out the door?...he said yes, that is correct. I told him if I came to the store, and the deal was not as he stated, I would leave.
    He assured me I would have no need. So I called back and spoke to another rep who confirmed independently that they have at least 4 cars at that price....so I will go and see and report back. There are no free lunches, so the dealer is being protected by factory money. How much is anyones guess.
    rdy
  • z71billz71bill Member Posts: 1,986
    Edmunds (look under incentives) lists factory to dealer money if available. The Mazda3 shows no money available.

    BTW - just because you call the dealership and ask them if this is a real deal - and they say - yes - means nothing. What do you expect them to tell you over the phone - we are a bunch of dishonest jerks - now come buy a car from us.

    They could be demo vehicles -
    Maybe they had hail / storm damage

    OR it could be a real good deal. You will never know until you go in and see with your own eyes.

    Good luck.
  • npaladin2000npaladin2000 Member Posts: 593
    $20 says that they'll have been sold about a half hour before you arrive. Whenever that is. ;) Remember, most ads are designed just to get you in the door to "work" on you, not to actually sell the car that they advertised.
  • minkyminky Member Posts: 2
    We've started shopping around for the Mazda 3GT - fully loaded w/ Leather and all. We've gotten a quote based on x-plan pricing and are concerned that this may not be any deal. Here's the quote:

    $24,984.56 (x-plan price)
    $455 (MAP)
    $590 (Armour Shield)
    =$26,029.56 + GST

    Is this reasonable?

    Your comments or suggestions are appreciated. Thanks!
  • moxymoxy Member Posts: 2
    Ended up getting the SP23 4dr at an Autobarn Mazda in IL.

    MSRP: $20,225.00
    I got if for: $19,725.00
    automatic transmission, w/o moonroof or security system
    plus wheel locks and cargo mat

    plus additional:
    doc fee: $55.39
    7% tax: $1,419.63
    flat fee tax: $15.00
    Plates: $143.00
    Grand total: $21,358.02 .. geez.

    but got free cargo net, all weather mats, 4 free oil changes, and 4 Mazda t-shirts. yahoo.
  • buster71buster71 Member Posts: 2
    A local dealer has the following;

    2004 Mazda3 5-door
    Black Mica
    Manual

    Options:
    Moonroof/6-cd
    ABS,Side airbags
    Xenon & TPMS
    Leather Seats
    Wheel Locks

    Sticker is $20115
    Invoice calculates to $18574

    I'm in no hurry to buy, just testing the waters so to speak. If the right deal comes along, though, I'm definitely prepared to buy immediately, which is what I told the salesperson. His first offer was a "President's Day Sale" price of $21225 (!!!). As soon as I started to object, he says "we gotta try, right?". Quoting over sticker for a 2004 - I almost punched him...

    Anyway, after a few rounds of negotiating, he couldn't get me to budge from my offer of $17000 + TTL for a grand total of $18658. Again, I was just sort of feeling out how badly they wanted to ditch a leftover '04, and the salesperson didn't seem completely unreceptive to my offer. Finally, the "sales manager" came out to do his "you wanna get me fired" routine, then he takes my scrap paper that I had written my offer on, crumples it up and throws it in the garbage. I collected my jacket and walked out.

    In your opinion, how much depreciation should be factored into a car that's been sitting in the showroom for about 6 months (and is previous model year), and what do you think would be a fair deal? (I *do* feel that my offer was very low, but I wanted to feel them out). Are dealers willing to let these go at a loss rather than continue to pay further interest and depreciation?

    Looking forward to your opinions.

    Oh, I guess I should add that the dealer's lowest offer was $18300 +TTL.

    P.S. My first post here! Great forum going...!
  • neomonkeyneomonkey Member Posts: 32
    The X-plan may seem like a good deal at first but in reality it is not. I was going to use the X-plan but beat the x-plan by over 200 dollars.
  • minkyminky Member Posts: 2
    The x-plan sounded good. I agree that you may find a better price.

    Is the overall price quoted for the Mazda 3 reasonable for Western Canadians?
  • rdyrdy Member Posts: 36
    I went to the store and indeed they do have 5 units at that price. We made a deal and I am picking up the car tomorrow.
    $15869 out the door.
    I told them, the check is already written so not a cent more. The salesman and I recognized each other from a ugly Ford lease negotiation several years ago which I won, so he was cool and I don't expect any surprises.
    They wanted 3% for AMEX, I offered 1.25% but they wouldn't budge so I abandoned it. After we made the deal, I asked him why they were selling the car for approx 400 under invoice after holdback when there are zero incentives. He said as a new Mazda store, they were getting the cars at reduced cost. Not likely, but the only reason that seems slightly credible is that no other Mazda store would consider a price match. It's the best deal I can currently negotiate, so I'm OK with it.
    Does anyone know if Mazda give free Roadside Assistance with purchase?
  • z71billz71bill Member Posts: 1,986
    Mazda has 24 hour road side (800) 866-1998. I think it only covers towing if the repair ends up being a warranty item - but I am not 100 % sure about that. I have always been a member of an auto club - because I always have at least 1 vehicle that is out of warranty. Preventing my wife or daughter from being stranded on the side of the road - even with a flat tire - is worth the $50 cost per year.
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 235,186
    Figuring a fair price on a year-old model, by figuring depreciation only works on your end.. The dealer most likely won't sell it for much of a loss.. They'll just wait for someone that wants that car, plans on keeping it for a long time, and wants to save $1500 over a new '05...

    My guess.. you might have been able to buy it for $18K + TTL...

    From a re-sale standpoint, not worth it over a comparable '05...

    regards,
    kyfdx

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  • big_catbig_cat Member Posts: 14
    I bought the 04 B2300 5 spd truck last month. ($4000 less rebate.)
    It invoice was $15,700. I got it for $10,900 and $89 for the paperwork fee.
    I thought it was a good deal for a bare bone truck with a 4 year warrant.

    Good luck,
  • acbeaumontacbeaumont Member Posts: 7
    A fair offer is best negotiated with a new salesman. Trust me on this. The old guys are there because they know how to make money.
  • acbeaumontacbeaumont Member Posts: 7
    If anyone wants to buy a car below invoice, ask me and I'll tell you how. It's easier than you think and doesn't require you to beat your head against a wall.
  • big_catbig_cat Member Posts: 14
    so please tel me how, "acbeaumont"?
    Thanks in advance
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Administrator Posts: 11,145
    Go ahead and share your tips! Since we're a message board format, we don't support "e-mail me for more info" messages. We'd love to hear your strategy for negotiating a good deal.

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  • magpie1magpie1 Member Posts: 14
    I haven't been able to independently verify that there is a $1000 incentive to finance through Mazda American Credit. The dealer says there is and that I would only have to make 3 payments before I could pay it off and get a better loan rate through my credit union. Anyone have any information on this?
    He also says that there probably won't be any incentives on the 2005's until mid-year...
    TIA...
  • magpie1magpie1 Member Posts: 14
    Something I forgot: the dealer is asking $17420 (automatic, moonroof/cd pkg) after the $1000 rebate.
    Since it is a 2004, should I try to get it for less- about how much would be a fair difference between the 2004 and 2005?
    I will be keeping the car so I'm not really concerned about re-sale value...
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 235,186
    Depends.. What is the MSRP?

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  • big_catbig_cat Member Posts: 14
    I bought the B2300 3 weeks ago finance with Mazda,
    I just paid it off last week no penality.
    I will do my title at the DMV this week.
  • magpie1magpie1 Member Posts: 14
    MSRP is $18935 excluding destination charge.
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 235,186
    Well.... one point.. always include destination charge.. It is part of the MSRP..

    And what you pay should always include it, as well...

    So, even after you deduct the rebate, your price is $17400? Is that an out the door price? Taxes and everything else included?

    Because if you still have to pay tax on top of that, then that isn't much of a deal..

    If we assume that the total MSRP w/destination is about $19,400, then your price is only about $18,400 before the rebate.. That isn't much of a discount on a year old model...

    regards,
    kyfdx

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  • magpie1magpie1 Member Posts: 14
    Yeah, MSRP including destination charge is $19455 and the asking price is $18420 before rebate...no sales tax...
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 235,186
    Seems at least $500 too high..

    No matter how long I was keeping it... I'd want at least $2500 less than I could buy a new '05..

    So, I think I'd be asking for another $1000 lower..

    regards,
    kyfdx

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  • rmjokersrmjokers Member Posts: 1
    I went to a dealer asking for a 3s with automatic, moon roof, leather, ABS package in the titanium color. I was prepared to make a deal this evening, but I was told that there are no cars available in the region. There are more than 10 dealers with orders on this car and only 2 en route to dealers through shipping. The dealer offered to sell me a strato blue 3 without leather, but they said they would add after market leather for free. If I can talk them down a bit on price, is this a good deal? I am not familiar with after market leather. Also, I was curious if the car I want is really that hard to come by or if they were just trying to get me to buy a car off their lot. Anyway, I told them I would think about it so I still have time to make up my mind. I am between DC and Baltimore by the way.
  • magpie1magpie1 Member Posts: 14
    Went to a southern Oregon dealer today and found this: automatic, abs, moon roof & 6cd-pkg, rear step bumper and wheel locks. Invoice=$18,885 Retail= $20340 New Car Blue Book=$19640. I offered $19,000 and they came back with $19,362. This is just about the only one with this configuration in my area but there are quite a few up in the Portland area. If I went to another dealer (that I like better) that doesn't have it in stock but if they brought it down from Portland, how much would that add to the price? Oh! and is $19,362 a fair price?
  • acbeaumontacbeaumont Member Posts: 7
    Dealers love to sell cars at two times: Sundays and the last week of the month. They have quotas that they commit to the manufacturers for and will do whatever they can to meet that quota, especially if it means beating another dealer in the area. So step one is to relegate your new car purchase to the end of the month. Next, contrary to public opinion, don't let the salesman know that you know what the invoice is, it makes things too difficult. Instead, do your homework and find out what the actual invoice of the car that you want is. Then use the loan calculator on this site and figure out what your payments will be including your down payment. Now, here's the thing. Whatever the payment is at the invoice price for however long you want to finance it at whatever rate you figured, subtract 20 dollars a month from that number. Now when you are in the dealership and negotiating, stick to that number. They will move way back on the price and shop for a much better interest rate than what they were originally quoting you ( which they make money on ) just to make a car deal. WARNING: DO NOT act like you know everything and DO NOT be rude. Be polite, but insistent. If they are anything but polite, leave. There is always another dealership, another sales manager, or another salesperson willing to work for you.
  • acbeaumontacbeaumont Member Posts: 7
    There are a lot of Titanium 3s on the West coast, but likely your East side dealer won't dealer trade unless you made it worth their while.
  • z71billz71bill Member Posts: 1,986
    You can check dealers inventory on line.

    Go to mazdausa.com, click on shopping tools, then click search inventory - it will bring up all the cars in the area that meet your requirements -

    It is not perfect - sometimes dealers list cars that have already been sold or are ordered but not delivered yet - but it will give you a good idea what is available.

    I used it and found it a big help.
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 235,186
    If you have a decent deal (and it looks like you do), any savings you would get by going to another dealer that doesn't have the car, will be eaten up in their costs of trading for the car..

    Once you buy the car, you can take it anywhere you want for service..

    Finding the car you want, and getting it with little hassle, is worth a couple of hundred dollars....IMO

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  • magpie1magpie1 Member Posts: 14
    Okay, I'm confused: I pull up a loan calculator and plug these numbers in: Invoice Less Holdback Plus 3% Profit gives $19,033, Less My Down Payment of $3000 at 60 months at 4.75% gives me $16,033. Now, what do I do with the $20?
    Thanks!
  • satchmosatchmo Member Posts: 34
    I too was interested in having leather installed on a Mazda3 post-sale & asked for advice online. The message I got was that installing aftermarket leather COULD jeopardize the finely tuned & computerized side-curtain setup: as a result I decided against this option as being too risky.
  • magpie1magpie1 Member Posts: 14
    Okay, so what would be a reasonable discount off a 2004, not including the $1000 MAC money?
  • acbeaumontacbeaumont Member Posts: 7
    Whatever your monthly payment at 16,033 financed at 4.75% for 60 months is, subtract 20 from that monthly payment and tell the salesperson that that number is what your payments absolutely have to be.
  • z71billz71bill Member Posts: 1,986
    $16,033 at 4.75% for 60 months = a payment of $300.75. A payment of $280 (lets round it off) for 60 months at 4.75% would be worth $14,928 - or an additional $1,105 off.

    This is one of the silliest (is that even a word?) negotiating tactics I have ever heard of.

    First of all the - don't look like you know anything ploy - lets play dumb - is in fact dumb.

    Second - do you really think that the people who work in the finance department don't understand how to work a calculator? They know exactly what a payment of $280 for 60 months at 4.75% is worth.

    Guess what will most likely happen - the sales person will come out and say - we got you a payment of $280 - but when you get to the finance department the loan will be for 72 months at 6.0% - which is BTW a loan of $16,895.

    Then what do you say - gee I said I can only pay $280 a month - but I can only make 60 payments or less (why I can only make 60 payments I don't know because after all I am dumb!).

    Then a good salesperson will say great - we can switch you over to a lease - it would be easy to get a payment down to $280 on a lease - say 48 months with an option to buy at the end for $6,000 (which BTW comes back to a "sales price" of about $17,182)

    Why do car sales people like to ask - what payment do you want? Because they can work all kinds of magic around $XXX per month.

    The best way to buy a car is not by playing dumb - or by using some trick. I mean really - the dealership & sales people do this for a job hundreds of times every year - do you really think they don't understand some silly trick.

    One last point about this - I can only pay $280 a month ploy - it takes the dealership about 2 minutes to run your credit report - this will tell them how much you earn - how much your house payment (or rent)is how much credit card debt you have bla bla bla - so they will know (maybe even better than you) how much you can really pay per month.
  • magpie1magpie1 Member Posts: 14
    Taking the $20 off the monthly payment reduces the purchase price by $1105. Will a dealership really come down that much? I'm having a hard time to get them to budge $300!
    Oh, and what would be a reasonable discount off a 2004? They're asking $19900 including $1000 rebate (which I still haven't been able to verify). The 2005 invoice price is $20,446 which is about the same for the 2004 model...
  • z71billz71bill Member Posts: 1,986
    Lets start over.

    What car are you trying to buy (2004 Mazda3 S, sedan)?

    What options does it have? What is the MSRP - including destination charge?
  • magpie1magpie1 Member Posts: 14
    Sorry for the confusion. Scenario 1, local dealer:
    2005 automatic with ABS, MoonRoof & 6-CD Pkg, Rear Bumper Step Plate and Wheel Locks. Asking price $19,362 excluding Title & Registration fees. Invoice $18,885 and MSRP $20,340.
    Scenario 2:
    dealer 90 miles north, who would bring vehicle down from Portland area (I could just go up to Portland I guess), mostly email contact: 2004 automatic with ABS, MoonRoof & 6-CD Pkg, Xenon & TPMS Pkg, Appearance Package 1 and Leather seats.
    Asking price $19,900 including $1000 MAC rebate (unverified) and excluding Title & Registration fees. Invoice $20,400 and MSRP $22,165.
    Thanks for your time and help!
  • cticti Member Posts: 131
    I posted last week about my first car-buying experience at a dealership. I got lucky in that they proposed $300 (+$250 doc fee) over invoice right up front because I am in the military. The price was good all things considered and price negotiations took 30 seconds.

    But if I had to negotiate, I certainly would not play monthly payment games with the dealer. My salesman tried that and didn't get very far after I told him I was comfortable with ~$500 per month at 36 months at 2.9% interest.

    Do all the finance math in the comfort of your home. Tack on the appropriate fees/taxes and see what you are comfortable with. I used numbers from my credit union (2.9%-36 months or 4.9% for 48/60 months) and determined that I could handle 36 months. It also showed me that 36 months vs. 48 months saved me $1000 in interest.

    Why play games games and say that you "can't afford" $290 but you can afford $280? If that 10$ REALLY matters you are spending too much on the car anyway. Just tell the salesman "I don't want to pay that".

    Playing payment buy games just obscures things, like others have said. Unless you have a financial calculator handy, you are at a decided disadvantage. And, if you are comfortable with a financial calculator, you don't really need one.

    If you can't use a financial calculator/Excel and go to a dealership and talk payments, I don't feel sorry for you if you get screwed.

    Low price + low interest rate = low payments. That's all that should really matter. Talking solely about payments obscures whether you are getting a low price/low payment.

    Jason
  • z71billz71bill Member Posts: 1,986
    OK - that helps me understand the deals better.

    IMO - Both of these deals are OK - not super bargains - but you are not being grossly overcharged.

    Buying a 2005 with these options for $19,362 ($477 over invoice) is not bad - Same for the 2004 - @ $500 under invoice.

    With that said - you can always try and get a better deal (lower price).

    But I think you need to decide what options you really want.

    The 2004 has leather (invoice price of $507), appearance PKG (front spoiler & rear areo flares invoice price of $520) and also the xenon headlights and TPM system (invoice price of $602)

    The 2005 has the rear step (invoice of $36) and the wheel locks ($32) which can be added to the 2004 if you want them.

    I don't see any $1,000 off financing rebate - the only incentive I see on a 2004 hatch is:
    Customer Incentive, 4.9% Financing (Expires 2-28-05) and a college grad rebate.

    This $1,000 rebate sounds a little fishy - but it could be a local incentive.

    If I use the Edmunds USED car value calculator with the options you listed on a 2004 I get a trade in value of $16,175, Private party sale price of $17,639 and a dealer retail sales price of $20,400.

    Sounds like you really just want some advise on what to say to get them to lower the price. Is that right?
  • z71billz71bill Member Posts: 1,986
    I agree with you 100% - why play payment games.
  • magpie1magpie1 Member Posts: 14
    Yes, I am a pushover & I need advice on how to get them down to their lowest price or close to it. On the 2005 I offered $19,000 - they countered with $19,364 and I told them I would consider and left it at that. They called twice yesterday saying that we were only $275 away from a deal. I hate it when they start saying that I'm asking them to take a loss on the deal because there is no way for me to know if that's true or not. I'm not looking for them to lose money - but I don't want to pay more than they would secretly be happy with! LOL
    As far as the 2004 is concerned, I called Mazda North American Operations this morning and there isn't any incentive on it at all - it might be something the dealer up north is doing locally but I'm disappointed that he keeps saying "if you finance through MAC you get the $1000 rebate." I'm not exactly sure how to deal with him now...
    While I don't need the extra options on the 2004, if I could get it for less than the 2005 I would consider it, especially since I keep cars a long time.
    I would like to buy a car now since it's the end of the month but I can wait until the end of March I guess. Of course by then the cars I'm looking at might be gone!
  • z71billz71bill Member Posts: 1,986
    First of all I never lie - I just don't feel right about it and I don't think it is necessary. But I don't have a problem not telling them everything - it is not the same as being dishonest (some people may not agree but do you think they tell you everything?)

    I would handle the 2005 like this:

    You offered them $19,000 - that is a good price ($115 over invoice) - they have called you twice - which is a good sign - they want the business. Tell them that you can get a much larger discount on a Mazda3 Hatch from the dealer that is 90 miles away - give them the dealers name - you can tell them it has the appearance package -something that is nice but you really don't need - and you are not crazy about driving 90 miles to pick it up - but for this good of a deal you would be willing to make the trip on Saturday. Truth is they are giving you a $2,265 discount ($1,287 more than the $978 they are offering) - it does have the appearance package - they are 90 miles away - (I assume you don't want to drive an extra 90 miles). Now I would not tell them it is a 2004 model - no need to even tell them what the price actually is / or how big the discount is. I always just say - I don't think it is right telling one dealer the price quoted from another - I also always add - I will not be giving your price to them either.

    Then tell them you would rather buy from them - because you want to get the car serviced at the same place you buy it - and you (again) don't want to drive 90 miles for an oil change. Tell them you would be willing to pick the car up on Saturday - but your best offer is $19,000 plus tax - but no other fees (document or advertising) - stick to your offer - $19K is a fair price. You could also say - you are not in that big if a hurry to buy - and think that in a month or two Mazda may be offering a rebate or special interest rates - and you would feel bad if you bought now and missed out on a rebate.

    Now for the 2004.

    I wonder why they still have a 2004 model on the lot - ask them why - is it a demo? How many miles does it have? If it has any miles on it I would tell them you would rather have a car that does not have a bunch of test drive miles on it.

    Tell them you are close to making a deal with the dealer right by your house on a 2005 hatch - that you have offered them $19K (I did not say I would not tell one dealer what I offered to pay another) - tell them that this car does not have the appearance package - or leather - but that these are not all that important - tell them you will buy the 2004 for $19K. You think that a 2004 with leather and appearance package is worth the same as a 2005 without these options.
  • magpie1magpie1 Member Posts: 14
    I spoke to the manager: $19,280 including fees (title and 4 years registration) or $19,138 if I take care of the title and registration...told him I'd think about it. He said that the dealer up north wouldn't do it for $19,000 because he'd be losing money on the deal. ugh...
  • z71billz71bill Member Posts: 1,986
    $253 over invoice on a 2005 is a pretty good deal. Many people pay much more.

    At some point the extra time / bother is not worth the $75 you may save.

    Good luck.
  • magpie1magpie1 Member Posts: 14
    The 2005 won! Breakdown: Price $19,062, Processing Fee $50 and Title & Reg which I had to pay anyway, $168 (4 years), Total $19,280. I'm happy. Thanks for all your patience and advice!
  • z71billz71bill Member Posts: 1,986
    The way I look at it you paid $19,112 - or $227 over invoice. The $168 is like tax. You ended up with a very good deal.
  • redmazda3redmazda3 Member Posts: 28
    When I purchased my 2004 3 hatchback three months ago, I did get a $500 rebate when I financed through Mazda American Credit. The rebate was only available through them and not through Mazda itself. I would imagine that the rebate is up to $1,000 now on the 2004 model. My dealer has always been upfront with all price quotes to me. I have purchased 4 Mazdas through them and have always received a fair price ($300 to $500)over their invoice amount. Usually, but not always, they throw something in free.

    When you are financing a vehicle, the difference in payment amount will not be affected much even with a price difference of up to $500. At 6% interest, 60 month payment, the payment on financing $20,000 is 386.66. The payment on $19,500 is 376.99. This is a difference of $9.67 a month. The difference for these figures at 8% is $10.14. Unless your budget is very tight, this amount should not make a big difference. If you like the car you are looking at, and the dealer is being decent, keep in mind that a few hundred dollars off from your price won't make a huge difference in your payment.
  • z71billz71bill Member Posts: 1,986
    You obviously understand that a "small" difference in monthly payment will cover a fairly large increase in price. But I think you are looking at this situation backwards.

    The reason many car salesmen want to negotiate a monthly payment is because it is much easier to get someone to agree to an additional $10 a month than it is to get them to agree to pay $500 dollars more for the car. But as you have pointed out IT IS THE SAME THING.

    The next time you want to throw $500 away give me a call I will gladly take it off your hands - even if you want to send it to me $10 at a time.
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