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2013 and Earlier - Mazda3 Prices Paid and Buying Experience

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Comments

  • jatecjatec Member Posts: 7
    ok, tried my luck today

    3k is pretty much out of the range with financing,

    but 2k should be possible with cash payments for a 09.

    won't hurt to go start off really low. Negotaited for about 2 hours, and was close to a deal with 0% financing. will see if they call me back.
  • whinnfjordwhinnfjord Member Posts: 4
    I just bought an 08 Mazda 3 i Touring Value Edition sedan with manual transmission equipped with the moonroof/in-dash 6cd changer package for ~$3500 under sticker including the $2k incentive (for a total of $14700 including destination/delivery). This seems to be a very good deal based on my research on the dealer cost of this car on edmunds (appears to be ~200-300 below cost before holdback which will probably make it a wash financially for the dealer because the doc fee was a not completely unreasonable $289). I probably could have gotten another $200 or so more off if I had waited another week and let them sweat a little, but this was the color that I really liked (stormy blue mica) with the sunroof that I wanted and I didn't really feel like risking them selling it while I was trying to squeeze a little bit more out. Also, since the $2000 incentive cannot be combined with the 0% financing deal, I arranged financing through Bank of America and got a very good rate. I would highly recommend checking them out if you have good credit, they were the lowest rate that I could locate.

    I also received an offer of $14449 plus tax, tags, etc for a Mazda 3 s Sport with no additional options from Capital Mazda in cary, NC, but I went with the i Touring Value Edition because of the better gas mileage, sunroof, and car color. Speak with Rick Pederson, he was absolutely fantastic and very helpful in getting me a very good price from the sales manager.

    The other solid option that I received was from City Mazda in Greensboro, NC for $14500 (since reduced to $14300 which still wasn't enough for me since the car already had 350 miles on the odometer but by then it was too late and I was already in the process of accepting the offer for the car that I ended up buying. I offered $14k on it, but was told no dice and 2 days later I had found the car that I wanted.)

    Hope this helps everyone out know what exactly is available if you're in the market for an 08 Mazda 3.

    Best of luck to everyone and Merry Christmas!!!
  • protege2000protege2000 Member Posts: 6
    Thanks for all the helpful information. I've been working with a few dealers on purchasing a Mazda3. One dealership said $2,000 under invoice on any 08 and $1,000 under invoice on any 09. Another dealer gave OTD of 18,273 on an 08 touring hatchback, auto. To compare apples to apples, what should I shoot for dealer invoice wise? I'm getting conflicting information on loyalty rebates, some say yes, and others no. What gives? The squeeze in on, with 1/5/09 coming soon. Thanks
  • whinnfjordwhinnfjord Member Posts: 4
    The dealership that I ended up buying from did offer me an additional $500 in loyalty cash for current Mazda owners, but I couldn't take advantage since this is the first Mazda that my family has ever owned! None of the other dealers mentioned this additional $500 loyalty cash, but one dealer did offer to sell me the car for "$1650 below invoice"...I almost replied to his email that I happen to know that there's a $2k incentive on the vehicle and that I'm not an idiot, but decided to take the high road and just not respond.

    As far as "out the door" pricing goes, I find that it's rather hard to compare between users because we very well may live in different states that charge different tax and tag and registration fees (I live in NC where my tax rate is 3%, the dealership doc fee was $289 which was a good bit lower than some others out there but wasn't the absolute lowest I had ever heard of, and tags were some other amount that I don't remember). All of that being said, I was offered $14700 via an internet quote (including destination/delivery) plus tax, tags, and doc fees for an "out the door" price of ~$15609 (not sure of that last digit but it's in that ballpark) for a 2008.5 i Touring Value edition with manual transmission and the moonroof/6cd package. The MSRP was $18355 as listed on the sticker, so I figure I got the car for $3655 under MSRP which seems very good to me (I did other research into dealer cost which also said this was a good deal, but this metric was the easiest to list in the forums).

    Like I also said, I was offered a base 08 s Sport for $14449 plus tax, tags, and doc ($397 at this particular dealership) which I felt was a good deal, but I wanted the 2.0L engine for better fuel economy (not that it was that much better in terms of mileage, but it was cheaper and I couldn't really tell a whole lot of a difference in terms of responsiveness and acceleration!). I considered a hatchback, but really didn't like that you had to get the 2.3L engine in the hatch and I didn't really "need" the added versatility that it affords because my wife has a Ford Escape that we can use to carry around bigger items. So all of that pushed me into the i Touring value edition package since they made a lot of options standard and didn't raise the price all that much over the earlier 08 i Touring vehicles.

    Assuming you don't know this already, Mazda has a great feature on their website where you can search all of the cars on their dealer's lots and show you those that are available in your selected model/trim level (link title). When you find a car that you are interested in that has the options that you are interested in, you can then click the "request a quote" button and input your information and the dealer will email you a quote on the car that you want (most of the time!)

    I'm not too familiar with s Touring HB pricing, so I'm afraid I can't say whether the price you were quoted was good or not, but there are enough resources out there that you should be able to calculate the actual dealer cost of the vehicles that you are interested in and even account for dealer holdback in the equation (2% of base MSRP for Mazda from what I have seen on the net). At this rate, you really should not be paying anything more than what the dealer payed for the vehicle (+/- $100-$200 depending on how long you are willing to wait and play a game of chicken).

    Remember to always be willing to walk out if they don't meet your definition of a fair price for the vehicle and always try to get a quote in writing via email so that they will have a lot harder time changing the terms of the quote when you finally do get a deal that will get you to come into the dealership. You earned that money, make sure that you don't give it away any more than you have to!

    I hope this helps you out and good luck with the purchase!
  • protege2000protege2000 Member Posts: 6
    Just received my best quote so far. For an 09 i Touring Value with moonroof, 6-cd package, cargo net, wheel locks, auto trans, the mspr was 18,736, inv 17,564, a $1,000 incentive, $500 loyalty rebate, $500 cash back for using 0% financing for three years, plus 6% sales tax, plus $148.50 for paperwork. Final otd price is 16,646.50. I've requested that information in an email, although I already have it in an email, it is kind of messy, so I requested a more clear cut format. Real nice salesman. When I asked him about any used 3 cars, he said with the incentives, rebates, and financing, the new ones were not much more than the 07 models, which is exactly what I've been seeing.
  • protege2000protege2000 Member Posts: 6
    Too many hours in front of the computer with too many numbers messed with my brain. The figures on the previous post were correct, but it doesn't have the 6-cd/moonroof package, nor cargo net or wheel locks, that was another car I was looking at. Sorry.
  • whinnfjordwhinnfjord Member Posts: 4
    I was looking at those figures and said "holy crap, that's a great price on an 09!"

    Makes a little more sense if that price doesn't include the moonroof/6-cd package or the cargo net and wheel locks, but still not a bad price if you're set on an 09. The 08's seem to be about 500-1k below the price of the 09's. Personally, I don't care what year the car is since there's little to no difference between the late 08's and the 09's as long as the car is new and doesn't have many miles (one that I looked at had 350+ miles on it already and it was "new"!!!). There do seem to be some 08's still available and they have a $2k incentive on them, but no 0% financing is available (I crunched the numbers and determined that the difference between the $500 with the promo 0% rate and the $2000 with the 4.9% interest rate I could get with BofA worked out such that the latter ($2k) scenario was about $750 cheaper over the life of the loan (36mo)).
  • protege2000protege2000 Member Posts: 6
    Thanks Whinnfjord for your input. I've never bought a new car before, so my question is, with the Mazda special offer ending 1/5/09, a Monday, any ideas as to the timing of when to pull the trigger and go for it? I'm very flexible with colors and models, so I'm not afraid of not having a car I like available. Do you attempt to make the move on Saturday, so that you still have time to go elsewhere, and the dealer knows that, or just go on Monday early enough that the dealer know he has the final leverage? The guy who gave me the best price has been real quick and straight with his answers, and his dealership has 100% rating on Ebay from selling cars, plus top awards from Mazda, so I'm thinking of trying to get a little bit more from him and call it a deal. Any thoughts?
  • whinnfjordwhinnfjord Member Posts: 4
    This was actually my first time buying a new car (actually any car) as well, so this might be a little bit of a case of "the blind leading the blind", but my recommendation would be to calculate the dealer cost (invoice) on the vehicles that you are interested in including any incentives and figure out how much profit you are willing to let the dealer make (in my case, I was willing to let the dealer make $200-300 on my transaction). As far as timing goes, it probably won't make more than a couple of hundred dollars in the final price, but I'd probably want to go in sometime around 12/31 so that you will still have time to negotiate with others in case the dealers pull some scheister moves (as they sometimes have been known to do).

    Good luck on the deal, I know it gets confusing and hard to keep straight, but when I found the right car, it was pretty easy for me to pull the trigger even if there might have been a way for me to lower the price a little bit more, but I was ready to call it quits... If you don't mind, post what you get and the price so everyone else can see what's available.
  • 28firefighter28firefighter Member Posts: 9,392
    My friend ended up putting a deposit down on the car I mentioned above..just to refresh...

    2009 Mazda 3s Grand Touring Sedan
    Stormy Blue Mica
    Automatic
    Bose/Sunroof Package
    Sirius Satellite

    MSRP: $24,200

    She did some more negotiating on her own (I told her to push it just to see how much further they'd go) and this is what they agreed on-

    Sale Price: $19800
    Final OTD Price: $22,600

    The car is not in stock and they are doing a dealer locate on it...but seems to be a great deal for a great car.

    Thanks for all the help!
    2022 Tesla Model Y Performance, 2018 BMW M240i Convertible, 2015 Audi Q5 TDI
  • salem66salem66 Member Posts: 10
    Hello all -

    I haven't purchased a new car since 2001, so I'm a bit rusty.

    We're looking at a 5 spd Galaxy Gray '09 Grand Touring w/ Bose/Moonroof.

    With 6.75% in taxes, we're looking at $21,929 OTD w/ the 0% financing.

    $21,429 for outside financing.

    Sound reasonable?
  • ylzylz Member Posts: 45
    Hello everyone. I have been in the market for a new car for quite some time now and I have narrowed it down to two: the 2009 Hyundai Sonata V6 Limited or the the 2009 Mazda 3 hatchback. Now I realize that these cars are in two totally different classes. But I'm 30, single and don't really "need" all the space in the Sonata but it is nice. Ok so let's get down to it. Love the Sonata's interior although the Mazda 3 interior is functional and looks good as well. I love the Mazda 3 exterior although the Sonata has a nice classy look about it. They both drive nice although different. The Sonata is more smooth and floaty while the Mazda has a much more sporty (but FUN) ride to it. I do spend most of my time on highways so in that way, the Sonata would be better but the Mazda just puts a smile on my face. Can someone with a Mazda 3 hatch convince me to buy this? Is it reliable? Can it keep up on the highway when merging with incoming traffic? When I buy a car, I usually have it for at least 7 years so I wanna make sure I'm buying something durable. What do you guys think? Any insight at all would help. Thank You.
  • nightsgtnightsgt Member Posts: 2
    I'm out in Southern Cali and I just purchased a crystal white pearl 2008 S Touring for 19,000 OTD. The car came with a spoiler (supposedly a 795 dollar non-removable option) and a nice tint job (listed as a 240 dollar accessory). All in all I feel like I got a great deal, I essentially paid 17,000 before tax and license.
  • Ken_DFAKen_DFA Member Posts: 2
    This is an update to a previous post:

    Haven't bought a '09 5dr S sport Auto, though I've tried. I've gotten TERRIBLE results from using the internet/email approach to buying. It seems like the dealerships in central Illinois put the dumbest person in their company on email detail. I'd write to a dealer and request three or four pieces of info on a car and would receive a one-sentence reply that addressed none of my questions. I get the general gist that the dealers didn't even bother to read email inquiries and were only trying to fulfill the basest requirements so that they could remain a certified Mazda "Internet Dealer".

    I suppose the breaking point was when I wrote back to the guy who had just made me an offer I was willing to accept with the message: "Sounds good, put me in touch with your finance guy so we can hash out the financing." and never got a response. All he had to do was give me his finance guy's phone number and he would have made the sale. After two days of waiting, I decided that I'd rather not hand over half a year's pay to someone this negligent. (This was from Sierra Mazda in Ottowa, Illinois.)

    I may try to buy again in a month or two, but part of me wants to just screw the Mazda 3 altogether and buy a Nissan 370z when they come out.

    -Ken
  • j70j70 Member Posts: 6
    FWIW, roughly 4 weeks ago, walked into a Mazda dealership in North Cali and got offered 17.5 before TTL. Just got a call yesterday that they need to clear inventory and offered 14.9 before TTL for 2009 Hatchback Sport model but that was a one day thing and I was out of town.

    2010 model here we come.
  • cenbitcenbit Member Posts: 2
    Are you sure you really got '09 model Hatch by this price? That's incredible!
  • waikwaik Member Posts: 1
    Hei i got a deal of 16,776 OTD for mazda3 Hatchback 2008 Automatic Sport. Is this good?
  • protege2000protege2000 Member Posts: 6
    Happy New years Day to all. My search for a Mazda3 came to an end today, but not as planned. Fully prepared today to go to the dealer and buy the car I test drove on 12/30, I checked Autotrader one last time last night. To my surprise, I found an 07 Grandtouring auto with every feature possible, I think, even nav, for $12,800 with 22,000 miles. Nada, Edmunds, and Kelly had the price at 17-18 private party in good condition. I thought there must be a catch. I called the owner this morning, specifically asking about the price, and he said it was correct. I was there about 45 minutes later. Wow, what a beautiful black, and it hadn't been detailed yet. The owner was friendly and answered all my questions. I took it for a test drive by myself for 20 minutes. It was the best car I had ever driven! I made up my mind I was going to buy it, although I usually don;t do things of this magnitude on the spur of the moment. When I returned and said I was interested in the car, the owner said the price was a mistake, that someone had put the low wholesale price on the add, but since I had asked about it and had come there under that impression, he would honor that price. Since it came from Virginia on a BNW trade, and I'm in PA, he didn't have the title, plus it needs PA inspection, which I agreed to pay for. The add said it was a 9.5 out of 10, and it was not an exaggeration. I put down a deposit and now am just waiting, maybe a week, to pick it up. When I test drove that car, I had to watch myself, as it was so easy to go over the speed limit. Thanks to all who recently posted, and to those of you who bought an 09, congratulations. To buy a car like this now would cost around $24,000, so I'm thrilled with what I got.
  • jym626jym626 Member Posts: 21
    I am a little confused by your post. Is this a private seller, a dealership or a used car lot? Did you mean a "BMW" trade? (I am unfamiliar with a "BNW trade"). Do NOT buy ANY car if you have not done an autofax title check on it. It could be a salvage car rebuilt, or had some other serious damage (ie bent frame, etc) or funky title issue. If the price sounds too good to be true (even if they aer honoring it) and you dont' have the title to ck, be careful. If I were you I'd get the VIN number and run the title check ASAP.
  • protege2000protege2000 Member Posts: 6
    Sorry. Yes , a BMW trade. Car fax is clean.This is a dealership that wholesales/retails high-end cars, which I saw there, like BMW, Mercedes,Porche, Audi, Volvo, all very new and clean. He didn't have the title because there was a payoff and they just got the car in.
  • moormoor Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I bought Mazda 3 itouring 2008 Auto with 2000 miles on it at the end of December for $14,000. I thought it was a good price to pay but now reading you guys it does not look that good. What do u think? It was my first car to buy and I got 5.5% financing with 0 down. o_O :blush:
    I'm in LA.
  • salem66salem66 Member Posts: 10
    Just did the deal on an '09 manual hatchback S Touring w/ Moonroof/6CD and another $400 in sundry options (cargo stuff, mirror, etc).

    Considering a 6.75% tax rate, we're out the door for $20,300 and the 0% financing.

    Not an awesome deal, but good enough, I think. I thought I'd post my experience for the forum!

    We were torn between this and a GT, but didn't want to spring for the extra $1700 or so.

    In our hunting, we found the 2.3 manual hatchbacks to be a bit harder to find.
  • SamiiSamii Member Posts: 1
    Hi, guys:

    Is it a good deal?

    2009 Mazda3 Hatchback S-Touring

    Automatic, Wheel lock , All weather mats and bumper guard
    9.03 % tax rate(WA), I got out the door for $19,038 and the 0% financing.
  • ZYseanZYsean Member Posts: 3
    I am interested in a 2009 Mazda3 with auto trans and a/c. The dealer offer 14000+ttl in Austin area, Texas. Is this price good enough? Thanks.
  • milespromilespro Member Posts: 1
    That sounds good to me, I was looking at the Touring Value and I'm at 16,586+ttl. I'm not sure what the differences are except the power package for windows, doorlocks, between the two. Anyone else have any idea?

    this is at Roger Beasley Mazda. I may be interested in the deal you are getting, what dealership are you at and does that model have power anything or is it one of the fairly basic ones?
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    I bought a new Mazda3 i Touring about two months ago and if I recall correctly, the "Touring" has the following additional goodies compared to the "Sport":

    - 17" Alloy wheels (as opposed to 15" steelies and hubcaps)
    - Low profile performance all-season tires
    - Power windows, locks and mirrors
    - Power sunroof (optional)
    - Fog lights
    - 6-Speaker Audio System (as opposed to a 4-Speaker system)
    - Cruise control with steering wheel mounted controls.

    I hope this helps. ;)

    Best regards,
    Shipo
  • SWCaliSWCali Member Posts: 1
    Hello Nightsgt,

    I'm in the market for a crystal white pearl grand touring hatch in socal, LA area. Would love to know where you felt you had a good experience.

    Regards
  • luckyforever1luckyforever1 Member Posts: 9
    someone on the board mentioned there is 1000 rebate to dealer before Jan 05. Does anyone know if this is still true after Jan 05.
  • ZYseanZYsean Member Posts: 3
    To milespro,

    The price was offered by Mazda South. And I think you can get 100 or 200 bucks lower if you have enough time and patience. Since I got this offer without much effort. The only problem was that they couldn't get me 3.9 apr for 60 months.
  • ZYseanZYsean Member Posts: 3
    And according to edmunds.com, there is a $2400 difference between "i Touring" and "i Sport" in msrp.
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    "And according to edmunds.com, there is a $2400 difference between "i Touring" and "i Sport" in msrp."

    That is fairly consistent the Mazda USA web site which says $2,405 between the two. From my perspective, the price bump is cheap given all the extra goodies the "i Touring" has over the "i Sport".

    Best regards,
    Shipo
  • salem66salem66 Member Posts: 10
    Just purchased an '09 Mica Black S Touring HB 5spd w/ Moonroof/6 CD, auto-dimming mirror and about $300-odd in other small options.

    The price was $18,848 OTD, which included 6.75% tax and $250 doc fee.

    This was without Mazda financing.
  • mcwongmcwong Member Posts: 3
    09 Pearl White HB 5 speed w/ Moonroof/6 CD, auto-dimming mirror for $17080 OTD
  • fxshenatefxshenate Member Posts: 5
    Look at their prices...they have models starting at 15100.
  • doctordrewdoctordrew Member Posts: 1
    Closed the deal for $12,995 + tax, tag, title.

    Clearwater, FL :)
  • scruffysscruffys Member Posts: 4
    What state are you in?
    I am have been looking for either a 2008 or 2009 hatchback in Indiana.
  • ylzylz Member Posts: 45
    Hello everyone. I'm buying a 2009 Mazda 3 GT 5 Door and am really excited about it. I'm selling my Honda CRV and am hoping to get $5000 for it. Now I want to use that to put a down payment on the Mazda. Is this a normal amount? I mean I have not bought a car in over 8 years. I don't know if I'm not putting enough down or if I'm putting too much? I would like to finance the car for 36 months (0% financing). Do they still have this deal? Any suggestions on where I should go, or what I should be paying would help. I'm in Long Island, NY by the way. Thanks.
  • ylzylz Member Posts: 45
    I have also thought about trading in my Honda CRV to the Mazda dealer in exchange for my new 3. Is this a good idea? Or should I just sell my Honda privately? My Honda is falling apart pretty fast. Didnt start the other day (need a new battery and cold weather doesn't help), one of the head lights is out, and the radio says "Code" and it's also out. Rather than get these things fixed, I was thinking just to trade it in to dealer for a new car. Is this a bad move?
  • salem66salem66 Member Posts: 10
    If you don't mind a bit of a hassle, sell it yourself. You should do far better.

    The only other reason to trade it in is that, depending on the state, the price of the trade-in can drastically lower the sales tax on the new vehicle. You'll have to run the numbers yourself to see if it is worth your time selling it on your own.

    Also, if you are taking their 0% financing, the car will cost more than if you pay for it through other means (cash, another loan, etc). There is at least another $500 off if you use other options.

    When we considered the 0% financing, we did so by assuming 0% down. It's the only way to get the maximum benefit of the offer. The big question here is whether or not you can stomach the larger monthly payments.

    I ran all the spreadsheets, comparing the choices, and, in the end, decided to pay for the car outright.

    If you are comparing against any outside financing over 3-4% for 3 years, the additional original $500 or so savings on the car is quickly gone.
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 237,123
    The dealer will likely give you a couple thousand less than a private party buyer..

    But, those seem like minor issues.. enough to turn off a potential buyer, but not that expensive to fix.. Get a new battery, reprogram the radio (lost power, that's why it says code), and fix the headlamp..

    How old is your CR-V, and how many miles? It may be worth more than you think...

    $5000 down on a new car and a loan for 36 months seems like a pretty good idea..

    regards,
    kyfdx

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  • orca3orca3 Member Posts: 11
    Viz - The reason your stereo says"code" is because when you disconnect the battery in alot of Hondas with theft proof stereos it puts them in "nontheft mode".
    If you have the serial # to stereo you can contact Honda through dealer and get
    the "push button" code to reset stereo. Just going through same with my CRV
    which just had new battery put in - wish Sears would have told me this before,
    now I have to pull stereo out to see the serial#. Love my CRV and my
    Mazdaspeed3 both!
  • ylzylz Member Posts: 45
    Where do I find the serial number to my stereo? Do I also have to take out my stereo to see this? Or can I just call my dealer and they will have it?
  • gamberjgamberj Member Posts: 3
    Today bought an '09 Copper Red S Touring HB, manual + $240 in options. OTD for $18,441. (Taxes are 6% in PA.) We're pleased. Ray Price in Stroudsburg, PA. Also shopped at VW-Mazda in Lehigh Valley. Didn't like their negotiating strategies. Not straight-forward. Scott Mazda in Allentown also offered price comparable to Ray Price.
  • kle1kle1 Member Posts: 8
    Here's a list of where you should look in order:

    1. Check glove compartment for a sticker, if there is one with 6 digits on it, that's it! Just enter that in.
    2. Check your paperwork from when you got the car, it might be in there, look for a white sticker with numbers on it.
    3. Call up the dealership you got the car from and provide them with the VIN to your car, although they might make you come down to verify that you're the owner.
    4. Get the serial from behind the radio, this requires taking stuff apart.

    Your headlight is an easy fix, should be able to just change the bulb, probably 8-12 bucks at walmart.

    Get a new battery and sell the car on your own.

    And like the person above said, if you're going for 0%, don't put any money down, stick the 5k into an interest yielding savings account and take money out of there each month to make up the difference.
  • salem66salem66 Member Posts: 10
    Regarding putting 0% down. I am by no means a financial expert, but look at this:

    Let's assume an OTD price of $19,500 and the 0% financing for 36 months:

    0% down - $541.67/mo
    5K down - $402.78/mo

    A difference of approx $139/mo.

    If you took that $5000 and put it in an account making 1.5% and withdrew the extra $139/mo for the higher payment, you would have roughly $120 left over at the end of the loan. Certainly not much over 3 years, but it shows that there really is no sense putting anything down if you can hold to a budget and NOT touch that account except for the car payment.
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 237,123
    As long as you are doing the math...

    You'll have to pay taxes on the 1.5% you are earning... That will knock the return down to around 1%..

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  • kle1kle1 Member Posts: 8
    Color: Black Mica/Black
    Optional Equipment: Rear Bumper Guard, Wheel Locks and Carpet Floor Mats
    MSRP: 19,095
    Offer: 17.5k + TTL

    This is in southern california, is this a fair price?

    I was hoping for 18k OTD with 0 down 0% 36 months = 500 a month payment. Or is my demand unreasonable?
  • salem66salem66 Member Posts: 10
    From what I have seen for Mazda's post- Jan 5th rebate program, taking their financing pulls about $1000 off the rebate table. Someone please correct me if I am wrong.

    You don't give a tax rate, so I'll assume mine (6.75). I just bought a 5-spd Touring HB and, if we compare what we each "saved" off our respective MSRPs, I saved about $997 more than you - again, I had to estimate a few things (title work, etc), but it shouldn't be that far off. That's right in line with expected additional $1000 in rebates when you refuse their financing.

    So, if I got a good deal ( I am pleased with it), then your sport at 18K OTD with Mazda financing is good deal and your demand is not out of line.

    In order to really figure it out, you'd have to give your tax rate .. and the invoice wouldn't hurt.
  • jfritschjfritsch Member Posts: 958
    It doesn't make any sense to put substantial money down with 0%. If you pay 19000 for the car and put 16000 down for example, and skip a 1000 rebate for 0% you've got almost no dealer incentive. (you're financing 3000 at 0)

    This goes double if you have poor/mediocre credit and they are still offering 0%.

    good luck
    --jjf

    Regarding putting 0% down. I am by no means a financial expert, but look at this:

    Let's assume an OTD price of $19,500 and the 0% financing for 36 months:

    0% down - $541.67/mo
    5K down - $402.78/mo

    A difference of approx $139/mo.

    If you took that $5000 and put it in an account making 1.5% and withdrew the extra $139/mo for the higher payment, you would have roughly $120 left over at the end of the loan. Certainly not much over 3 years, but it shows that there really is no sense putting anything down if you can hold to a budget and NOT touch that account except for the car payment.
  • gamberjgamberj Member Posts: 3
    We are buying a 2009 Mazda 3 HB Touring, 5spd manual, with all-weather floor mats, cargo tray, and door guards MSRP $20,023 for $17,071 + Taxes, Tags and Title (Conventiona financing). We are in Pennsylvania. Mazda now has a $1500 incentive with conventional financing.
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