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invoice-$18,756.00
retail- $20,030.00
Ive been to a few places already to get quotes
one dealership is does costco auto program does invoice plus $400
the other is willing to match other dealerships even this one
so the price they gave me is $20,999.00 with a $500 rebate knocks that down to $20,499.00 after taxes $157.75 gov, then $2,057.90 makes it
about $22,714.65 then they say they would losing -$202
and im sorry my scenario isn't welly detailed out im just wondering is that a decent price or should i just keep on bargaining with them
Be sure to get the Out the Door price, base price for car can be augmented too many ways to list.
I had gone to another dealer and they made it clear they would match or beat any other offers I had gotten. I took the best OTD quote from the other dealers. That was my starting point in the negotiation with this dealer. It so happened that they made a mistake and gave me a quote in response that was amazing... what I paid in the end. They reversed and said they couldn't do that, I got mad and made noise. Talked to the owner of the dealership and he made it work so that I could pay what they gave me the great quote for.
All in, it took about 2 weeks from start to finish, although I have been at it since early March, you could do it in 2 weeks I suppose.
Also be sure to get the Preferred Buyer's Card, I mentioned it in earlier posts.
Good luck herbench and everyone else. By the way, been driving my car all over and I LOVE it
The dealer was doing a Memorial day $500 customer cash.
$22,100 plus TTL.
Thanks
I got OTD quotes from 2 dealerships here in LV... 1 gave me a really low quote for 2010 GT HB A...lower than the 2009. So i told the other dealership that and he told me that they actually own all Mazda dealerships in LV...and the quote that was given to me was for another car. Not for the car I wanted. He said that sometimes, some salesman would quote you on another model car to get you in the lot. How unfortunate is that?! I'm giving the "honest" guy the benefit of the doubt but I also started asking quotes around SoCal area, so we'll see what happens. We will be going to SD next weekend and one of the cars that I saw is in National City. Hopefully they will be honest with me.
Thanks again for your help!
Hopefully by next week, I'll be Zoom Zooming like you
Thanks.
If you're looking at getting an 09 you really just have to look at inventory now. If there's a few in your area you could probably wait until the 1st to see if there's any new specials. But if inventory is like 1-2 cars you might not have the benefit of time.
You will likely get the best deal from the dealer who has the vehicle. If you involve your local dealer, it only makes sense that they'll want to make a profit for playing 'middle-man'.
I want only 2 options installed... these would be the remote engine start and fog lights....
What do you guys think my chances of getting the car with only these two options are
Also... I am probably going to be buying in mid august.... do you think there will be and incentives such as cash to customer or anything else like that??
What do you think a good price for me to expect would be??
Thanks
I got my deal from Preston Mazda on the Eastern Shore, in Preson MD.
Good luck!
Still zooooming...
BTW, Fizmall claims they can price match, and after I asked their sales, they seems fall into silence. Do you have any experience with them?
I do not like Thomson.
The price for Fog Lights- $350 retail
and Remote Engine Start- $300 retail plus installation....
You can always add these items after you've negotiated the deal on the car, too...
I've been quoted $21,150 (plus TTL) for a 2010 MZ3 5-door Sport with AT and Moonroof/Bose/6CD. That's $518 over invoice and $945 off MSRP. I get a feeling that they'll put some cash (or marketing support) on these in a month or two....thoughts?
Do you have any idea of what i should pay for this car OTD when both remote start and fog lights are installed (I am in northern NJ) Thank you very much
I have no idea what the terms are but do you think that it is worth buying or should i take my chances and pay the fees myself
Thank you for sharing
MSRP- $19,695
Invoice- $18,400
Edmunds TMV (in NJ)- $19,207
I'd offer $18,900 ($500 over invoice) and NOT go over $19,200! That doesn't include sales tax or tag/title/registration fees (which vary by location).
FYI- they are offering low APR financing for qualified buyers- 2.9% for 36-months or 4.9% for 60-months.
The factory warranty covers this car for 3yrs/36k miles (bumpter-to-bumper) and 5yrs/60k miles powertrain (engine/transmission). Defects typically show up early in the life of the car and are repaired long before the warranty expires.
Instead of buying an extended warranty (which often cost as much as $1500-$2000), open a 'car repair' savings account. Deposit $50 per month into it and you'll have $1800 at the end of the 3-year warranty. And $3000 at the end of the 5-year powertrain warranty.
If something goes wrong with the car when it's out of warranty, pay for it out of this savings account. If nothing goes wrong, you'll end up with a few thousand bucks in the bank rather than in a dealer's pocket!
In my case, I got suckered into buying an extended warranty (that went to 100,000 miles) on a car I bought in 1988 (which I happened to drive almost exactly 100,000 miles), and between the cost of the warranty and the $100 cap on a per service visit, the warranty ended up costing me more than twice what it would have if I had paid for the repairs. Since that time my wife and I have purchased eight cars, all of which were offered with an extended warranty (and all of which expired at no more than 100,000 miles), and we took a pass on every one.
Taking the total of the warranty contracts that I didn't purchase (which doesn't count the per service visit charges), I come up with a figure of about $18,000. Against that, those eight cars have required about $4,500 in maintenance making for a savings of at least $13,500. Or does it? Of those repair charges, about $3,800 came when the vehicles had well over 100,000 miles on them which means that the repairs wouldn't have been covered anyway, and that means that over the last fifteen years I've saved over $17,000, enough to buy a new car.
Long story short, an extended warranty may work out to the owner's advantage on any one car, however, I'm betting that over 99% of the driving public would make out better over their driving life if they simply self-insured.
Best regards,
Shipo
Others have paid in the $800 range for these on the avg sedan $17000+ purchase price, or perhaps $1200 for a complex 4wd vehicle, loaded with nav, auto sliding doors, etc. At these prices they are worthwhile. All with no deductable. Some seem to have generous pro-rating and refund terms.
Honda sells theirs online thru several dealers, and others may be able to canvas dealers finance offices last week of the month to see if it can be done, if not at time of purchase.
Of course avoid non manufactruer 3rd party warranties like the plague.
Good luck
--jjf
1. the sound system, (standard), is not as clear as my old Honda, seems Base is pretty loud, even I set it at 0;
2. The ride on rain day, and so so city street is kind of bumpy, specially for long drive, but i did not feel it during my test drive, maybe I need adjust myself to use to it;
3. Lack of storage, I mean around driver, it is small thing, sure, it is a compact car;
Overall, I like my hatchback, fun to drive.
If you keep a car at least till 5yr/50k then i'd suggest getting an extended for that extra 2 years. I'd never buy the overpriced offering from the dealership, but i'd gladly buy it from my credit union in a heart beat.
I have seen some intriguing posts about $180 cost $100 deductable insurance from Geico and such but I don't know much about the terms.
In general I would want to pay about $800 or so for a 7yr/100kmi or more factory extended warranty on an average sedan or just nix it. Definitely not anywhere near $2k.
--jjf
May I ask why you suggest avoiding 3rd party extended warranties? I bought mine through my credit union years ago. It's long expired but I used it 3 times w/out hassle on my civic, at the Honda dealership.
If you keep a car at least till 5yr/50k then i'd suggest getting an extended for that extra 2 years. I'd never buy the overpriced offering from the dealership, but i'd gladly buy it from my credit union in a heart beat.
2009 Mazdaspeed3 GT white, only option: wheel locks. MRSP: $25375 price paid $21888 before tax, title and license. Quite cheaper than what they were selling for before. But then again: the 2010 speed3 is just around the corner.
Awesome car for the money.
I had trouble finding what I wanted in the greater LA area. Bought it at Capital Mazda in San Jose, CA.
One more quick question
do you think that by August Mazda might be offering any cash to customer rebates on this car??
$14,895 - $22,045
With the 14 K price being the base 4 dr Sedan GX and the 22K price being for the 4dr Sedan Auto GT.
I don't have the Mazdaspeed3 listed unfortunatly.
I love the Mazda3. I'll buy one once I'm out of school haha such a value.
I also found the Mazdaspeed3 MSRP and i'll post it in American dollars. It's 26,579.06 USD.
There you go, hope it was helpful.
can you tell me the true msrp for spicificly a 2010 i touring (i will be getting it with a remote engine start and fog lights)
thanks alot
Assuming It's in good, clean condition.
What trim did you get for $20600 OTD?
It's either better fuel economy with the i Touring... or...
more fun plus more room with the HB.
Has anyone used the www.zag.com group purchasing program?
after first 1000miles, it is really fun to drive.
I would think that the car would be at its best brand new
It seems as if people are saying that it takes time to get more fuel efficiency and more fun to drive
i dont understand why this is the situation
Nothing wrong with brand NEW, just for all parts sit for their best among each other.
MazdaCustomerAssistance@mazdausa.com
to me
Thanks for contacting Mazda.
We appreciate you taking the time out to e-mail us with your inquiry. Unfortunately Mazda North American Operations is no longer disbursing the Preferred Buyer’s Card as we are completely out of stock. In addition, we cannot speculate if such a promotion will be available again in the near future. We do apologize for the inconvenience.
Again, thank you for contacting Mazda.
Regards,
Erik A.
Customer Assistance Specialist, E-Business
2010 Mazda 3 s Hatchback with Bose/Moonroof option. It's about $350 below invoice plus TTL.
$19,536
1758 Tax
342 Title and License and doc fee
$21,636 Total Out the Door
Good quote right?
I was just starting my new car search, and the Mazda3 was at the top of my list. So, I sent out some email quote requests for a 3i Touring, manual transmission. The first quotes I received were around invoice to a couple hundred dollars less ($16994+TTL to $17292+TTL). Then, the dealer at 16994 dropped his price to 16300, plus $500 in free gas. I was just starting my search, and haven't even looked at any other cars (was going to at least try to drive a Civic), but this seems too good to pass up. I'm ready to go make the deal without looking at anything else. Does anyone think I could possibly do better than this deal on a Mazda3 or any other make that is comparable? BTW, my last two cars have been Mazdas (1991 MX-6, 2001 Protege), so I have been a Mazda fan for a while, which also makes this easier for me. Thanks.
Would like to get your thoughts on the following quote:
2009 Mazda 3- iTouring Value
-Blue
-Auto
-Cargo net
-Wheel locks
-CD/Moonroof (didn't ask for this, but "its all they have")
$20,645 retail price
$18,072 dealer "sale price"
($2,000) rebate (national, I believe)
$16,072 car "sale price"
$1,103.52 VA tax/tags/fees
-----------------------------------
$17,175.52 "out the door"
That's a fantastic price. It's much lower than I have found so far. I don't think you'll find it for any less. I'd take it. I'm assuming it's the 3i Touring Manual with no additional options. What city, state is this deal from?
I totally agree. I've had my 2003 Mazda Protege since I bought it brand new... and it still drives trouble free.... 142,000 miles and still going strong. I'm looking to pass it along to my daughter so that I can get the new 2010. I'm leaning towards the Hatchback this time... but the i Touring will get you better gas mileage.
Good luck... keep us posted.
I considered the hatchback this time, too, but the rest of the family likes the looks of the sedan better. And, the i Touring is cheaper with better gas mileage.