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i apologize if this is a newbie question, but i'm a newbie :-)
can someone please explain the (sometimes significant) discrepancy between the various prices found online? for instance, i'm planning on buying an i touring (4dr auto no options), and i just found the following invoice/msrp figures online:
edmunds: 17,586/18,775
autobuyguide: 17,190/18,350
i have the option to buy using s-plan, so i'm trying to figure out what 'invoice price' i would pay, and thus whether i can do better on my own.
also, is destination charge negotiable, or is it legitimately standard?
thanks so much, and sorry again if this is information previously discussed
Unfortunately, there will always be discrepancy's. If you plan to buy using the S-Plan price, Mazda dealers have to use that price, which is the invoice price. They are not allowed to change that price. Just ask to see the dealer invoice and you will see "splan" written on the bottom of the invoice, with the price next to it.
The destination charge is not negotiable. The destination is billed to the car, and the car is always negotiable.
As a current owner of 3 Mazdas (208/2008/2010) let me tell you how its done. You can find the dealer's cost on this site or www.KBB.com. This will be your starting point.
You take the dealer's cost and subtract at least $1,500 from that. That is your target price before destination. Then you can allow them to add the destination charge. No window etching though as its a SCAM!!! You can get that done for free at your local police station!!!
So if the sticker is $20,000 and the dealer cost is $18,000 then you shoot for $16,500. Then add the destination fee.
I have been buying cars for years at or around $1,500 below the dealer cost. You have to work them over and over again. I bought a 2008 Honda Accord for $1,200 below.
Get your best internet price from any dealer that you actually dont want to buy from then give that price to the dealer nearest you that you do want to buy from. I negotiate my prices via email all the time and never do it in person.
Go get em!!!!!!!!!!!
I'm considering buying a 3S but I don't want the low profile tires. I tend to hit curbs a lot when parking which is not good for low profile tires plus the 16" wheels absorb bumps better and are better in snow. I care more about a smooth ride than better handling. A couple of dealers told me that I would have to pay for the wheels. As part of a new car purchase can't the dealer simply replace the 17" wheels and tires with 16s for no charge? They can sell the 17s as they will never have been used. The reason I want an S is that the I model with AT really strains to pass on the highway with the A/C on and two people in the car. .
Also, can the head restraints be moved forward. My back hurts in the 3's seats. If I use aback support it is fine but since back supports are 4.5 inches thick my head is too far from the head restraints.
Thanks.
Cheers
You will be hard pressed to find a dealer to do that. To buy the rims directly from Mazda is very expensive and unless the dealer already has a buyer for the even more expensive 17" rims, then the dealer will stand to lose a lot of money on the transaction. I know I would not buy rims and tires at no charge.
Also, can the head restraints be moved forward
They do not move forward. They are active head restraints, so they will not move.
thanks
Purchasing a new set of rims and tires can be pricey ($1000 to $2000). An alternative may be just to replace the tires and keep the rims; this would be less than half the cost mentioned above. Of course, the cheapest alternative is to keep both until you need to replace the tires (approximately 2 to 3 years).
p.s. It may also be worth checking to see if the tire pressure is set correctly to 32 psi. Some drivers bump up the pressure substantially (example to 35 - 40 psi). Hopefully, the car you test drove had its tire pressure set properly.
The car price is below edmunds tmv and kbb. Considering S plan usage as well do the numbers make sense or should they be better?
Thanks for any input.
With the model year waning, it should be possible to do better, but color choices and option packages are also dwindling. Good luck to everyone on the buying end!
Your price of $19,277 is a pretty good deal, but there's still a few hundred dollars to be saved...if you're willing to haggle for it. It would be worth it to me, personally...but I'm a cheap SOB!
Note- the price you listed ($19,277) would be very close to bottom dollar if you choose the Crystal White Pearl exterior color...the CWP option adds $200 to the MSRP and $172 to invoice. (Personally, I'd much rather have the Gunmetal Blue Mica or Graphite Mica at no additional charge!)
Looking at touring model with auto and so far getting $18200 plus TTT as best price with no other options, but trying to do better
sorry to dig up an old post, but i'm negotiating with ramsey for the same car right now (you have very good taste). were there any special incentives going on when you bought the car, other than the 0% financing? trying to figure out if i should aim for the same price.
thanks
Dealer Invoice was $24,378 (including destination). That's $1,394 off invoice which I though was pretty good. Of course the doc fees were $399 which I thought was about $200 too high but overall I thought it was a good enough deal to pull the trigger on, especially with 60 month 0%.
Side, note, dublin, is that Ramsey in NJ? I think there are other Mazda dealers in the area that you'll get a better price from.
I think we can do a bit better maybe especially last 2 days of month.
Anyone received anything better than that in this area?
Thanks
that's about the best i've gotten so far as well, assuming no loyalty rebate, and i'm in nj. my lowest quote is somewhere very close to that, don't remember the exact number off the top of my head.
and by the way, alexwalex - s-plan is a program for employees of mazda and its supplies to buy at a discounted price without haggling, generally the invoice price, plus dealer fees, minus customer incentives and dealer incentives (i'm not positive though so any corrections are welcome)
Pl forgive my poor english and ignorance on car shopping. Planning to buy mazda 3 i-touring from Minneapolis dealer. ( The reason I am buying this is - it has stability control feature).
I do not want the absolute cheapest bargain but at the same time I do want to a fool too.
Can one of you pl suggest what I should pay or negotiate. No other options are needed on the car.
Thank you
According to the Mazda webpage, 0% financing offer is explained like following.
0.0% APR for up to 60 MONTHS PLUS 0 monthly payments for 90 days
60 MONTHS PARTICIPATING LENDER FINANCING AT $16.67 PER MONTH PER $1,000 FINANCED. 0.0% APR ONLY FOR WELL QUALIFIED BUYERS. NOT ALL BUYERS WILL QUALIFY. AMOUNT OF DOWNPAYMENT AND OTHER FACTORS MAY AFFECT QUALIFICATION.
Does this mean that they charge $16.67 for $1000 financed every month when the period is 60 months? If so, it is actually 1.66% APR for 60 months, not 0% APR, isn't it? If my understanding is right, then do I have to take 0% financing for 48 months instead of 60 months to get 0% APR? Please correct me if I am wrong.
Thanks.
So, if you finance $10,000 you would pay $16.67 per $1,000 borrowed (16.67x10=$166.70 per month for 60 months). If you financed $20,00 (16.67x20=$333.40), etc.
After days of researches and shoppings, I've finally got a new Mazda3 S Sport HB A/T! Though it does not go with any options, I'm pretty happy with it. And I paid $19,500 OTD ($21,230 MSRP) with 7% tax and got 0% 60mth.
Good way to buy a new car would be firstly dealing with dealers via email. Apple to apple comparison should be taken place. If possible, get the stock number (or VIN number). Share the quotes with other dealers. And you'll find that price quotes are going down and down as time goes by. Do not ask the others to match the price quote, but force them to beat it. Do this until they do not move down any further. I know they could go down much further, but I stop there for a while. They would contact you. And price goes down once again...hopefully.
Well, I'm not sure if my price is a good one to get, but I'm so happy with my new Mazda3~~~!
I've test driven a 2010 model twice in the last six months and keep thinking about trading in my '06. I drove the s 5-door in Sport and Grand Touring trim and, for me, the Sport is definitely the one I'll buy (if I can ever let go of my beloved '06 s 5-door). The Bose audio system didn't impress me enough to spring for the Moonroof/6CD/Bose Package and the Tech Package (Compact navigation, SIRIUS sat radio, Alarm, Push-button Start and Advanced Keyless Entry) doesn't interest me in the least. The standard s Sport 5-door is what I'll be getting.....my only dilemma is which color to pick! What color did you get?
As for the deal of $19,500, that's a very fair price according to Edmunds and TrueCar- one shows the best price as $19,512 and the other says $19,480. So your $19,500 sounds like a great deal and with the 0.9% financing, I'd say you got a GREAT DEAL! Congrats again!
The following features are now standard for 2011 on the GT-
Moonroof, Bose 10-spkr audio system and 6-CD changer
And the following features are no longer standard on GT models for 2011-
Pivoting Adaptive Front Lighting System (AFS)
Bi-Xenon HID headlights with auto on/off capability
Auto-leveling low and hi-beam headlights
Clear-lens LED tail lights
Rain-sensing wipers
The 2011 Tech Package adds the following features-
Pivot Adaptive Front Lighting System (AFS)
Bi-Xenon HID Headlights (auto-leveling)
Auto on/off headlights
Clear Lens Rear Combination LED taillights
Automatic Rain Sensing Wipers
So the s Sport can now be optioned with the Bi-Xenon headlights and LED taillights, in addition to rain-sensing wipers and automatic headlight control. The only features unique to the Grand Touring models now are leather interior, automatic climate control and the power driver's seat....and the illuminated visor vanity mirrors, and heated front seats and outside mirrors.
Addendum- the Technology Package can only be ordered on an s Sport with Automatic Transmission- if you want the Tech Pkg and 6MT, the GT is the only choice....
Thought I'd share....
My price was including everything.
I got it at a local dealer who was running a special.
Here I why I think we got it for that price.
I think the advertised special was a teaser rate, but we wanted what they were teasing...
We wanted a manual and we didn't want any extras past the itouring basics.
It was also the end of the month and I think they needed to move some stock.
The dealer is Bob King in Winston Salem, NC, so if you are close enough, you might want to keep an eye on their site and see the specials they run. They did try to work us upward on the price a bit, but my wife and I were firm in our dealings.
We love the car so far.
Hope you can get what you want.
And sorry for the late reply, I just have not checked the boards lately.
All the best to you.
I bought mazda 3 i-touring Auto . For 18000 + 1534 (TTL) = 19534. In twincities. No other options except the standard ones.
16994.00 (Includes freight and -1000 for available rebates)
99.00 processing fee
546.98 Tax
60.75 Tags
------------
17700.73 - OTD
2010 Mazda 3 iTouring 4dr Manual Transmission
No options
Sale price + dest fee: 17,043 [no incentives applied to me]
NYS Inspection: 20
NYS Tire: 12.50
NYS Doc: 97.50
Tax: 1,460
DMV: 200
I am estimating tag because I am switching from a commercial truck tag to a regular tag for this car. I don't know what cost will be yet.
So, my out the door price appears to be $18,833. With 0% for 60 months I plan to put nothing down and walk away with a payment of $314.
I keep trying to find the error here because this is lower than truecar for my area. I imagine the advertising fee built into the true car price may be part of this. I have a competing offer from another dealer another city for $17,283; so I'm thinking there is nothing missing here.
Can anyone see any problems here? I mean, this sounds like an incredible deal. So the pessimist in me is working overtime - where's the catch?
Also test drove a C Class MB for her yesterday afternoon and it was awesome! Plenty of power and superb creature comforts even in the base model...she already tried the 3 series and liked it but I think she'd prefer the C better. Not sure how much she wants to spend either.
The Sandman :sick: :shades:
2023 Hyundai Kona Limited AWD (wife) / 2015 Golf TSI (me) / 2019 Chevrolet Cruze Premier RS (daughter #1) / 2020 Hyundai Accent SE (daughter #2) / 2023 Subaru Impreza Base (son)
The Sandman :sick: :shades:
2023 Hyundai Kona Limited AWD (wife) / 2015 Golf TSI (me) / 2019 Chevrolet Cruze Premier RS (daughter #1) / 2020 Hyundai Accent SE (daughter #2) / 2023 Subaru Impreza Base (son)
Seems to me the biggest additions are an upgraged stereo, the navigation and push-button start. I like the first and third things, but have a portable GPS, so don't really need the second. The difference in price is about $1500 and I'm wondering if it's worth it. For me, it's either 21,600 for the Red one without it or around 23,000 for a gray one (not here by the way) with it.
Has anyone got the upgraded stereo and been happy with it? I wish I could just get the push-button start but I understand everything is packaged.
It is up to the dealer to choose how they advertise the price. If they disclose that the $500 owner loyalty is included in their advertised price, there is nothing wrong with that. Remember, advertisements are meant to drive traffic. Mazda the manufacturer has nothing to do with the price advertised by that dealer. All Mazda advertises is available incentives and starting MSRP's.
I believe your issue is with that specific dealer, rather then the manufacturer. Personally, I don't think dealers should advertise with owner loyalty included. Unfortunately, many dealers of many different brands do this. Mazda is not the only company with owner loyalty incentives.
Come to think of it, Chrysler advertises lease specials for "returning lessee's". If you are not a returning lessee, you don't get the deal they advertise nationally. I think that's worse then what the Mazda dealer is doing.
I seem to remember last year they had a $1500 incentive somewhere around this time, and I'm holding off until September because I think that might be the case. They only have a $500 dealer cash offer right now, so it's not that big a deal if that goes away.
Right now it looks like they are quoting:
22,630 MRSP
-1,250 Dealer Cash (or 0% 60 months)
-500 mazda loyalty reward
Most dealers in my area (Texas) are roughly in the ball park of the above figure, is there anything else im missing or can negotiate down on this price based on anyones prior experience?
In my area the invoice is $19,187 so the math is $19.187 - $2,000 = $17.187. Then add their dest fee of + or - $750........
You should be able to walk into a dealer and say "I will buy any care on your lot for $2000 below your invoice and I still want the 0% financnig" "if you say not then FU I am leaving"
Its a game and if you will be destroyed if you do not learn how to play the game. How to control it.
Go get 'em!!!!!!!!!!!!!
But, please do not say "FU" to the dealer/salesperson. I also advise against stating "$2k below your invoice," because dealers have been known to produce inaccurate invoices.
You need to know your number ahead of time and offer that dollar amount exactly.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S