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Toyota Tundra New Owner Reports

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  • tundraowner4tundraowner4 Member Posts: 3
    Update:

    I want to thank you all for trying to help with my frustration. To answer some of the questions you have posted. The 2nd dealership I went to did check the transmission fluid and said everything seemed fine. As far as the ball mount, when we purchased the trailer the truck and camper was put on a level ground to measure correctly. Everything was measured properly and the camper is level with everything.

    Another update on the letter and e-mail I sent to the Toyotal Corporation. They basically told me that there was nothing they can do. They said I need to work with my dealership to find the issue. This is just crazy, I have been working with 2 different dealerships and nobody wants to help out. They also told me that my truck which is said in my manual to two 10800 lbs can only tow 8100lbs????? Seems a bit fishy to me. Also, they said that make sure I have the right ball mount, sway control... bars..etc. (Which I do) because that can mess with towing capacity. They wanted my vin number and all my information which I feel they don't need. They said they filed the report with what ever they do. I honestly just don't know what to do anymore. I just test drove a tundra with everything mine has, and guess what no shutter, rev'ing around corners, banging... etc. Of course I don't know about towing since it was a test drive, but it was totally different. I guess my only option now is to pay off what I can and purchase another truck. I can only hope that I can get some money back from that 5 year warranty I bought... not sure about that, but I am just stuck.....
  • 1972ck1972ck Member Posts: 56
    Toyota asked for your VIN so they can fill out a "product report" on your Tundra. They can investigate what shift your truck was built on and access the engine and transmission number from the truck. They will contact one of the dealerships you visited or perhaps both.
    The difference in tow rating is if your Tundra came with the factory tow pkg. or if the hitch was added by the originating dealership or at a 3rd party camper dealership. The factory tow package increases the tow rating of the Tundra. If your truck is a Double Cab 4x4 5.7 liter it maximum tow rating is 10,300lb.s with the factory tow pkg., the reg. cab 5.7 liter 4x2 has the 10,800 lb. tow rating when equipped with the factory two package.
    If the truck was equipped with a receiver hitch and wiring after production at the factory then the tow rating is less. I hope that your Tundra will decide to act up when it's brought to a dealership so they "verify" your complaint. Once a dealer has verified that what your telling them is truthful they can then act with full cooperation from Toyota. Good luck. :shades:
  • sloooseslooose Member Posts: 16
    Paying off your truck and all that stuff you mentioned is stupid. I'm not saying you are stupid but what you suggested is not the answer. I still stick by my original suggestion------put the trailer on the truck and take it to the dealer and have them go for a ride with you with the trailer on-----if that doesn't work find the Toyota rep and make him do the same thing. If neither one of these work find an attorney (yes I hate to admit it and it might cost you a few bucks for him/her to write a letter) and you'll be surprised at how fast the dealers and the reps start listening to you. (I had to do this once with another car I had a long time ago). There is absolutely no reason for you to be holding the bag on this. If the damn truck doesn't work make them fix it and fix it right. DON"T GIVE UP ----
  • tluketluke Member Posts: 52
    I got my 2008 SR5 5.7 last month and it seems that it's slow to heat up. I live in NW PA where it gets plenty cold. It seems that I have to wait quite a while to get heat in the truck. The temp gauge rises but it takes too long to get heat. Eventually it heats up and stays warm. Maybe I'm just used to my prior vehicle, a Jeep Wrangler with a 6. It heated fairly quick. When it was recently single digit temps I got home before the truck warmed up. That is a 5 mile drive. Do other Tundras warm slowly or am I expecting too much?
  • mrtoad3mrtoad3 Member Posts: 68
    You are not alone. My 2008 5.7 takes 5-10 mins to warm in the driveway before I leave for work. Winter temps anywhere from 0 to 30 F. It barely gets warm by the time I get to work too if I leave right away. It is such a big engine that it apparently takes a while to warm up. Don't even think about getting good defrost before 10 mins.
  • tluketluke Member Posts: 52
    Thanks for the input mrtoad3. I guess it's one of those things I'll just have to live with. No big deal.
  • farmerrubefarmerrube Member Posts: 33
    So it seems these ones lack haul and are breakin quicker? How is them pumpkins lastin? They rustin yet? That is the way of em, thats for sure! Lookin for one to work that farm, but it seems these ones not lastin long enough for that farm now. Good luck on this one now!
  • mrtoad3mrtoad3 Member Posts: 68
    I have been thinking about adding XM radio to my truck and remembered that for the first few months after buying my '08 with NAV/Bluetooth that it had 2 satellite stations accessible by pushing SAT button on the radio. After a year, those stations are gone and my SAT button is not operational. Is there a built-in satellite tuner in the radio/NAV system? Does anyone know what to do to get it to reactivate so I can get the code to begin XM connection? The dealer had no clue how to proceed.. Thanks to anyone who can help.
  • riserriser Member Posts: 10
    I read that a K&N intake would increase gas mileage. I just bought a new 2009 and although 16-17 is OK, if I can increase it a few mpg, so much the better. Has anyone used this and did it work?
  • diesel35diesel35 Member Posts: 2
    I am a contractor in phoenix AZ. I have owned a lot of trucks 150's, super duty, Dodge 2500 diesel, 3500 diesel. Still have the Dodge 3500 4x4 dually. My 07 Tundra 5.7 standard cab long bed 2wd is by far the best all around truck. I tow a covered work trailer every day. the trucks performance, handling, braking, is the best. Reading the complaints on here, i don't think they know the difference between piston slap and a very minor timing chain noise. This truck is flawless. I drive it very hard. 5 and 6000 RPM is very common, while towing.
  • riserriser Member Posts: 10
    Thanks, man. I drove 3 F-150's back in the late 70's. Over 150-180K each, a lot on pipeline ROWs, and never had any problems. But since then, I've heard about a lot of issues. This time, I drove a new F-150 Platinum home to show it off to my wife, and when I pulled up the back seat to show how much room was there, the handle for the seat broke and wouldn't release the seat. She just started laughing and said I'd be an idiot if I didn't just test drive a Toyota. SO I now own the Tundra Luchese 4WD TRD package. It's not as soft riding, but solid and doesn't get as good mileage (17.5 the 1st tank), but everything works!! The back seat isn't as roomy for my dog box, but it is just as comfortable and tricked out. I think I'm going to enjoy passing every Ford I see!!
  • bwaynobwayno Member Posts: 1
    I own a '08 dc trd. From the get go there has been a rattle in the dash somewhere behind the glove box. Really notice it at low speeds on concrete streets. Also a suspension shudder at low speeds over not even big bumps. The rattle seems to coincide with the suspension shudder. Dealer changed out a clip that they said would fix the problem. They said there was a TSB on it. Still have the rattle. I'm ready to go in the dash myself but need a little help disassembling the dash. Any help out there.
  • yota4trukyota4truk Member Posts: 34
    during cooler temps noticed rattle "in dash", turned out if I open the door, it goes away?? some stuff too close together I guess... :confuse:
  • mrtoad3mrtoad3 Member Posts: 68
    I am considering an install of the TRD swaybar and was wondering if it would really help with cornering roll control etc. Would it be much stiffer. I have the TRD pkg but not the aftermarket swaybar. Am looking to improve the roll in corners at higher speeds without lowering the truck. Any suggestions or past experiences? Thanks.
  • nwalker1nwalker1 Member Posts: 17
    How long are the brakes lasting on the Tundra's? My 2000 Chevrolet Silverado extended cab with the 5.3L lasted over 140,000 miles of hard use. I really do like the Tundra's and I hope the brakes are lasting over 100,000 before any service is needed!
  • cruemax08cruemax08 Member Posts: 2
    Yes the TRD bar really helps with the cornering roll and greatly improves the transient responses of the truck in corners. 45 minute install at most. Well worth it. If you stick with the OEM 18" off road tires, those will be your biggest issue with cornering after this upgrade.
  • 1972ck1972ck Member Posts: 56
    I had a K&N intake on my last Tundra and it reacted the exact opposite way. It decreased my fuel economy. If the engine is sucking in more air then the air/fuel ratio sensor adjusts the fuel accordingly. My mileage went down not up, I wasn't impressed to say the least. :mad:
  • mrtoad3mrtoad3 Member Posts: 68
    I would like to know what size tires I can upgrade to after a leveling suspension kit is installed. I got 2 " front lift so now the '08 Tundra dblcab rides level. I have the 18" TRD rims and stock 275/65/18's. Can I go with a bigger tire or just stay with stock size without changing rolling rates too much? Thanks.
  • dt4dt4 Member Posts: 4
    I am approaching 40,000 miles on the 5.7 liter engine. At start up it sounds like a diesel and has always done this. However, at full operating temprature it makes sounds like the valves are knocking or like low octane gas. I have run 93 octane gas and this does not help. Going up hills seem to make it a lot more noticeable or when the engine has a load on it. Took to the dealer and the service manager and I drove the truck around and he says it is the exhaust resonator at the back of the engine doing this. However at first they told me it was the variable valve timeing doing this on a previous visit. Has anyone out there heard this BS from any Toyota dealers? Everyone at Toyota seems to think this is normal.
  • vc17vc17 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2009 Tundra 5.7L with 5000 miles on the engine. The truck has been to the dealer 4 times for the engine KNOCKING noise, the noise I have is not piston slap, I've owned 3 GM trucks prior to buying the Tundra and I know what piston slap sound like. My issue is different from the issues most of you are reporting. The engine KNOCKING noise in my engine occurres after warm up and at operating temp, the noise comes and goes and is not constant. At 4800 miles the dealer (at the direction of the factory rep) replaced all the hydraulic lifters in Bank 1, after driving the truck for 20 miles, the KNOCKING noise was still present.

    I took the truck back to the dealer on 112809, got a call back from my service department, there were 3 factory reps at the dealer with my truck, at the direction of the 3 factory reps, they told the dealer to pull the motor out of the truck and tear the motor apart. The factory reps will return to the dealer on 120409 to look at the torn down motor to see what the problem is.

    I contacted TMC and filed a case when this issue started a few months ago. I'm not here to bash toyota because I love this truck, but Toyota has the WORST customer service I have ever experienced! To all that have this engine noise, I recommend you stay on Toyota and file a case with TMC and be PERSISTANT.
  • farmerrubefarmerrube Member Posts: 33
    Look for that sludge in that motor now... it is the way of them ones. Good luck on this one now!
  • waitingtundrawaitingtundra Member Posts: 3
    I've had my tundra a year and a half and in my 30+ years of owning trucks, cars I've never owned a vehicle with as silky smooth power train as this tundra. Sometimes I believe it must be a high end Lexus and not this big huge truck I'm driving in. No wonder Toyota's resale value is so high.
  • dt4dt4 Member Posts: 4
    Did you not read what I wrote? Just what I wrote.............THAT IS WHAT THE HELL I AM TALKING ABOUT! AND I DON'T WORK FOR FORD OR CHEVROLET OR DODGE EITHER! I ACTUALLY OWN ONE AND IT KNOCKS AND PINGS AND I AM PISSED OFF TOO!

    Also I own a 2007 Tacoma and it is "SILKY SMOOTH" as you say so I may just trade it (TUNDRA) for another Tacoma or a 4-Runner. I don't hate Toyota! Just telling you what my truck is doing...........
  • wyorebwyoreb Member Posts: 45
    have picked up the same dash rattle you described, passenger side, in the dash, is the most noticable in cold weather. was wondering if your issue was resolved (your post from a few months ago) or if others have had it and any luck diagnosing...
  • dt4dt4 Member Posts: 4
    No! I traded the truck for a 2009 Toyota 4 Runner and I am very happy with it! Also, my truck did not have a "DASH RATTLE" as you say yours has. It was something in the engine on mine. Well, I am done with that problem! I recommend anyone buying a new Tundra to get any engine but the 5.7 liter! They need to do some more research on that engine! Or, just make it a diesel because mine sounded like one anyway!
  • yota4trukyota4truk Member Posts: 34
    my "rattle" more like a squeek, try having someone open the door and see if it stops.... :confuse:
  • webgoodwebgood Member Posts: 95
    Wyoreb...Just this past week I noticed an occasional "rattle" coming from the RF corner of the dash/windshield area. It started after we started getting really frigid temps, and doesn't do it every morning, and then only for less than a minute as I'm driving over uneven pavement areas. What I visually noticed as new was the plastic panel that runs across the width of the dash and butts-up to the windshield, the right front corner has dropped about 1/4 inch, and down from what I can see is a thin raised rib at the bottom of the right A post plastic trim cover.
    I'm not sure what's going on here, but I'll be calling my service writer at the local dealership in the next week or so to see if he knows anything about, if there's a TSB as seems to be mentioned in a previous post, and what they can do about it. I'll post the result, Regards, BGood
  • wyorebwyoreb Member Posts: 45
    BGood, what you describe about the dash panel and the fit to the right front corner is exactly the same as on mine. Certainly didn't notice it at purchase, but it doesn't look correct (or poor fit/finish), and if it is missing some spacers or cushioning, it could certainly be causing this click-like rattle. Mine has rattled for several weeks, started out intermittant, but now is regular, especially at slow speeds and driving over uneven surfaces. I am going to get it checked out as well; we'll compare notes.
  • roystoy2010roystoy2010 Member Posts: 1
    I was just wondering if anybody has the same truck...and experiencing a quick 1-2 shift on turns only. When I come to a full stop it does not happen...I know the 6 spd tranny is NEW but I think they may have reprogramming issue ? I now have 2,500 mile on it and would like to stay on top of new engineering at its best.
  • theracingmindtheracingmind Member Posts: 7
    The 6-speed drives like the first 3 gears are equivalent to "Low" in a 4-speed. It tends to shift at low speeds, as when turning a corner or in slow freeway traffic jams. The electronic throttle is touchy, which makes it difficult to modulate at very slow speeds. I have 44,000 km on my 2007 5.7L Tundra and it runs well, but it has taken me some time to get used to its quirks. The truck demands gentle inputs. So far, my truck has been quite reliable, a good hauler, an effortless highway cruiser and very fast.
  • toy4xtoy4x Member Posts: 3
    My new 2010 Tundra CrewMax Ltd. 4x4 has started this dash rattle too (500 mi.). Seems to occur when articulating (twisting, in a turn or entering a driveway, etc.) rather than on up-down bumps (washboards). Sent a note to sales/service rep. I am sure it can be somehow fixed when located (have used Chapstick as a lube between squeaky plastic parts before!). Still in honeymoon mode over the Toy though, so it's not really bugging me yet.
  • wyorebwyoreb Member Posts: 45
    toy4x - there seems to be a pattern of owners experiencing the same rattle issue - please post what you find from your service advisor. no need to exit the honeymoon period yet - the truck is great!
  • webgoodwebgood Member Posts: 95
    wyoreb, toy4x, bwayno and any others with a dash "rattle", "chirping" or squeaking...I stopped at my Toyota service today to make a service appt. for the wife's Highlander and asked the service writer ("Josh") if he could step outside and look at the dash. As I was describing the noise and how the RF forward-most panel of the dash that butts the windshield had appeared to drop, he just stopped, said he already knew what it was, we turned around and walked back inside, said he'd order the "clip" that needs to be installed back behind the glove box and he'd call me in a week or so when it came in. All covered under warranty (bought mine in April '09). I didn't think to ask if there was a TSB on it, but from checking the on-line site that lists them by vehicle, I didn't see one. It appears to be something that Toyota, or at least most service centers, are aware of. Regards, BGood
  • wyorebwyoreb Member Posts: 45
    BGood, thanks for the note, I will take my truck in this week to have them check it out. Glad they knew what to zero in on.
  • Karen_SKaren_S Member Posts: 5,092
    If you are a Toyota owner and interested in sharing your reaction to the recall with reporters, send an email stating the vehicle you own, your telephone number, and the best time you can be reached.

    Send to: karen@edmunds.com
  • mrtoad3mrtoad3 Member Posts: 68
    I am concerned about all the talk in other Tundra forums and here about the limited expected longevity of these engines from excessive internal wear due to a design flaw. In the wake of the recent recalls, I am wondering if Toyota is going to mention this. The noises that come from the engine when it is cold are disheartening. The dealer says it is normal. Don't they really mean common? The transmission is also jerky and it surges occassionally. Also common? I think I'll sell the truck and get a Ford. They seem to have their act together lately.
  • toy4xtoy4x Member Posts: 3
    wyoreb, webgood, others - Finally figured out my DASH RATTLE. After some internet blog research, there seems to be about 5 different "dash rattle" types:
    1. Sagging Dash - the RF corner of the dash droops about 1/4", due to an inadequate support clip below the dash near the windshield. Toyota issued a TSB on this, and their fix is a NEW beefy clip and some insulation/padding ("Toyota Sound Dampening Material") between dash and windshield (T-SB-0080-08) covered by warranty.
    2. AC/Heater vents/ducts - some folks hear loose ducts rattling around - they pull both glove boxes out and pack insulation around the duct work/vent tubes.
    3. Rattle noise around speaker area - this was the noise I was hearing. It is NOT REALLY coming from the speaker/CD/Nav area, it only sounds like it is. IT IS COMING FROM THE MIRROR, where the mirror support/wires go. There is a PLASTIC COVER over the wires that "squeaks", "ticks", "rattles" intermittently or all the time. Push it down with you fingers and see if the sound stops. I can move it side-to-side and get it to squeak. You can squeeze it with thumb/index finger and un-clip it and it opens. I lubed it with some chapstick (!) and it stopped (may have to repeat application). AT LEAST I NOW KNOW WHAT/WHERE THE ANNOYING NOISE IS COMING FROM and I am not pulling my hair out anymore. Nice, quiet drives even w/o the radio on!
    4. Same as above but look to the OVERHEAD CONSOLE. Some have found a loose wiring harness inside the console (passenger side) bouncing about. Tape/insulate, etc.
    5. Same as above but loose wire harness BEHIND THE CLOCK. Pull clock and stuff insulation around.
    6. Misc. - rear seat-belt metal clips. these rattle around and hit the plastic on the sides of the seats. I cut-out some self-sticking rubber type padding (2"X3"X1/8") and stuck that to the seat side where the clip was hitting. Done. Also, middle seat-belt clip "ticks" against the plastic button/rivet on the belt itself. Used round rubber pad (like used on bottom of calculators, etc.- get at Staples) on button. Done.

    May get dealer to fix some of these under warranty.

    Hope this helps. Cheers, TOY4X.
  • dt4dt4 Member Posts: 4
    I traded my 2007 Tundra for a 4 Runner. I really did not need a truck. Best move i ever made. The 4 Runner is awesome!
  • wyorebwyoreb Member Posts: 45
    toy4x:

    thank you for putting this summary together.

    hopefully can get the dealer to fix the rattle - only thing preventing total satisfaction with the new truck!
  • wyorebwyoreb Member Posts: 45
    has anyone had any particularly good or back luck with a spray-in bedliners - would be interested in comments on brands, applications, care. thanks!
  • toy4xtoy4x Member Posts: 3
    wyoreb - good luck and rest assured that there is a solution! Tundra's kick-A!
  • pissedoff8pissedoff8 Member Posts: 3
    edited March 2010
    I purchased a 2007 5.7 4x4 sr-5 from toyota of orlando(Fl.)it had 5 miles on it.I noticed the engine knock the first week took it to dealer 4 times they said they could not hear.when I took back for first oil change (2000)miles they checked again, same results.after changing oil they said they heard noise and needed to rebuild motor I asked why rebuild why not replace motor?being a brand new truck?they said everything would be fine and it would not affect my resell value they gave me a loaner and said my truck would take about a week to fix.after 30 days they called and said truck was ready(they supposedly test drove) I picked it up and drove 3 miles I barely made it back to dealer it was chugging so bad the service manager (Glen Brewer)said they probably crossed some wires and it should take 1/2 hour to fix.2days later they called and once again said truck was ready I picked it up.about a mile up the road I saw a friend crossing the street and tried to beep my horn but it didn't work i pulled to see why .mechanic never reinstalled I pulled back into dealer blocking both lanes of service locked truck and demanded to speak with owner of dealership(who was too much of a wimp and pawned me back off to service mgr.who said they must have been stolen I asked where was your security guard? and he said he likes to sleep in office (some kind of excuse right?)I finally picked up vehicle and drove to work trip in chey.Wyo.I noticed unusual wear and noise in right front wheel upon return to FL.I took back to dealer who could"nt find problem my 4 wheel drive will not disengage and they say I need to drive in reverse to relieve tensionI try to no avale I tried mediation but was working out of town and had to fax my paperwork and lost of course (they don;t tell you the panel is made up of toyota employees I was contacted by lemon law lawyers but once again was out of state working now i have too many miles to persue which is exactly what toyota planned I have owned 9 toyota vehicles over the years with 0 problems until now!!but i will never again. anyway the # is (407)298-4500 but I would not recommend my worst enemy to that place (toyota of orlando)P.S. I am new to computers and do not sit around playing on them all day .these are my real experiences and I'm taking time out of my day to help or prevent this from happening to anyone else
  • pissedoff8pissedoff8 Member Posts: 3
  • pissedoff8pissedoff8 Member Posts: 3
    I purchased a 2007 5.7L 4x4 from Toyota of Orlando with 5 miles. the first week I noticed a rod knock sound, I took back to dealer 5 times before they finally heard and said they needed to rebuild(short block) I asked why not just replace motor ?they said Toyota's policy is to rebuild. I unwillingly accepted.They told me it would take 5-7 days to repair. After 30 days,and my call to factory rep.I received a call that my truck was ready. I picked it up and drove approx.3mileswhen it started chugging and barely made it back to dealer.The service mgr. said they probably crossed some wires and it should take about 1/2 hour to fix .6 hours later the mech. called me back to show what he thought was wrong and was prying on cam shaft chain saying he thinks it may be off by a link.I went through hell trying to get another loaner until they could make right.2 days later i received a call that it was ready.I picked it up and saw an old friend crossing the road,I beeped my horn and it would not work.I pulled over and looked under hood and saw they never put the horns back on.The sevice mgr.(Glenn Brewer)said they must have been stolen.I asked about their security and he said the guard likes to nap in office(some answer eh?)I just wonder if Toyota even knows what kind of incompetent employees these dealerships are hiring to represent their company? they used to be a reliable company before they became americanized!!! I've owned 9 toyotas before this one,but I'm 100% certain this is the last until I see some major changes in the way they do business, and how they perceive the publics intelligence! I hope my story prevents anyone else from making the same mistake I did,If I can be conned into ever buying another toyota.I can guarantee it will not be from Toyota of Orlando
  • mrfixit4mrfixit4 Member Posts: 4
    I purchased a 2009 Tundra with 5.7L, and have had it back to the dealer three times regarding engine knocking. They say it is normal. Having built engines, I disagree, and think there is a serious problem here, which they are not acknowledging. I am about to invoke the "Lemon Law" if they don't step up and take care of this. I also have been experiencing transmission slip, especially after a tight right turn. Took it back again, they added 1/2 qt. of fluid, which they said was all they could find wrong. This morning it slipped for about 50', engine rev'd no engagement. Having owned six Toyota vehicles before this, I can tell you this isn't the company I remember, and not one I think I want to experience in the future.
  • kl67kl67 Member Posts: 15
    Have you called Toyota Customer Care? This is your next step...they will then contact the customer relations manager at your dealer. He will contact you and start the process of fixing your vehicle.

    I had to do this to get my entire engine changed...ended up being the #5 rod bearing was causing the knock.

    This is what I recommend doing...good luck
  • mrfixit4mrfixit4 Member Posts: 4
    Yes. Dealership is contacting regional Toyota rep and also their new quality team to investigate. Hope something can be done with both problems. I just can't buy that this is the way it is suppose to be. No one makes an engine that rattles this bad at start up, and expects people to buy into this. Also the tranny slip is unbelievable, and from other posts, people are accepting it. A friend of mine owns a tranny repair shop and he can't believe they are asking me to accept their position that nothing is wrong.
  • notlikintundranotlikintundra Member Posts: 3
    I have been the proud owner of 4 Toyotas prior to purchasing my 2007 Tundra Crew Max in August of 2007. This is my last Toyota. Quality is just not there anymore, nor are there any honest dealers to repair them. Here is my list of issues.
    --truck runs like crap after recall to adjust computer . Dealer says "Normal"
    --Gutless towing my 2700 pound Tent Trailer. Advertised to tow 10,000 with ease (my Tacoma does a better job)
    --Poor paint quality. Paint comes off truck with every little bump. Nothing you can rub out or touch up. Repaint the truck or live with the white undercoating showing through
    --Radio volume does not work and stations drift off of where set
    --Dash vents will not stay in adjusted position, you have a choice of full up or full down. Dealer reluctant to fix due to need to pull the dash. Says Dash will start to rattle when they fix it. Dash already rattles. So Add;
    --Excessive dash rattle
    --Loud engine noise similar to valve tapping. Dealer Says "normal" even though I have never heard it before, sounds like a diesel from inside the cab
    --Tranny shifts hard when cold, You guessed it, the dealer says "normal" Did not happen in the first year of driving the truck
    One more thing I should mention, the truck has a whopping 17,000 miles on it. Oh joy, I wonder what happens when I reach 20,000.
  • mrfixit4mrfixit4 Member Posts: 4
    This is my sixth new Toyota, previously 2 - 4Runners, 2 - Camrys, 1 - Tercel. I can't believe how the quality has deteriorated. I still have engine rattling on my 2009 Tundra with the 5.7, sounds like a diesel when cold. Pulled my boat this last week, and rattle was quite noticeable when a load was applied. I tried numerous times to get the dealership to address, and even requested a Toyota representative through their help line. This was worthless. I agree, no more Toyota vehicles in my future if this is what they are building and how they are taking care of the customer.
  • kl67kl67 Member Posts: 15
    Folks stop beating your head against the wall going back to the dealer! Give Toyota customer care a call and let them know your concerns. I have had a number of problems with my 07 Tundra, the straw that broke the camels back was the so-called fix for the gas pedal...BS! I raised a little stir with TCC and in turn I have a new gas pedal and a Platinum Warranty 8yr/100K! Give it a try... :D
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