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Chevrolet Malibu Oil Changes/Service Questions

135

Comments

  • paopao Member Posts: 1,867
    I dont think is has synthetic.....remember it is a closed system...you have no dipstick to check the trans fluid level..owners manual states to use dexron III auto trans fluid...Owners manual also states the fluid doesnt need to be changed until 100K....unless severe use..towing, city use constant about 90 degrees...etc...

    I would doubt there is much residue with todays machining techniques...but again..do what you are comfortable with...
  • redmaxxredmaxx Member Posts: 627
    That doesn't beat what a dealership around here tried to do to my parents. They had an '03 Pontiac Montana with 16k miles and still under warranty (note the Montana has the same deal with its tranny fluid). It was having problems with the transmission. Guess what the dealer wrote up? Transmission flush at my parent's expense! We were furious and called Pontiac and they basically said that there wasn't anything they could do. Even though the dealer was refusing to proceed with diagnosis until they did the flush. :mad:

    So, with the driveability symptoms they are having I figure at their milage and all the dust we get here there is no way that thing's air filter could last that long. So after about 45 mins of work I get the thing out and it is covered in this black, fithly, thick film. Needless to say they chewed the dealer out. :D
  • sonichka4sonichka4 Member Posts: 1
    I just received full ownership of a 2000 chevy malibu, and never fully owning a car before (it was always taken care of by my parents) I need advice on maintanance - it needs to be serviced, but I hate walking into a car repair shop and being a clue-less female. What types of things should I ask them to look at specifically, and conversely, what are "unneccessary" things they may "suggest" I give them permission to do to my car?

    Thanks!
  • paopao Member Posts: 1,867
    how many miles on the car now..when was it serviced last...regular oil changes?....air filter changes....etc....look in the owners manual to see what the major services are and what is done........usually 30 60 90K....some are 25 50 75 100K miles.....
  • mybooomybooo Member Posts: 92
    Hello! I was jsut curious if anyone knows how the 05 Maxx LS likes ethanol gas? My former car - a 03 Grand Prix GTP hated it. I would get about 3mpg loss using ethanol in the pontiac. Does anyone know if the Maxx has any problems with ethanol? THank you in advance!

    Larry :-)
  • e2helpere2helper Member Posts: 1,002
    It depends on what you mean by ethanol. Likely you mean E85 (85% ethanol). That type of fuel is NOT recommended by GM to be used in any vehicle not designated as being E85 compatible. Informational TSB #05-06-04-035. "Can cause driveability issues, service engine soon indicators as well as increased fuel system corrosion"

    All other gasoline engines are designed to run on fuel that contains no more than 10% ethanol.

    There are a few vehicles out there that run on E85. The new Impala has an engine option that is E85 compatible. It does reduce fuel economy pretty drastically as you indicated (less energy in fuel).
  • mybooomybooo Member Posts: 92
    Thanks for the quick reply! I should have clarified, I meant 10% ethanol. In Iowa, it is getting harder to find non ethanol gas. At least most stations still have 87 unleaded 9non ethanol). My GTP required premium, so it was real hard to find non ethanol. The ethanol gas is usually about 5-10 cents per gallon cheaper in the 89 octane over the 87 non ethanol. I was just wondering if I would loose some mpg using the ethanol. I do like being able to get gas at any staion now, and have been averaging 25 mpg for mixed driving (60% city/40% hwy).

    Larry :-)
  • mybooomybooo Member Posts: 92
    Just a quick question. What do you all use to clean the interior (dash/inside door panels, etc)? In my old car, I used Armor All Wipes. Our Maxx LS has alot of plastic on the inside, and I would like the "clean look" over a slippery/shiney look. Any ideas? Thanks!

    Larry :-)
  • csandstecsandste Member Posts: 1,866
    Generally agree about watching out for dealer rip-off's, when I had a Hyundai Elantra I got a 30,000 service at a tire dealer for under $40. The dealer wanted about $300 and dinged me for $700 on the 60,000 full blown service with timing belt change. Like the low maintenance ohv engine, should be a lot simpler to maintain than the Hyundai.

    I think the GM oil life indicator is very sophisticated. People who insist on changing oil at 3K are doing themselves no favor as extending service intervals results in more wear as per this study:

    http://www.swri.edu/3pubs/IRD1999/03912699.htm

    "Testing with partially stressed oil, which contained some wear debris, produced less wear than testing with clean oil. This finding was unexpected and initially confusing (further inquiry suggested that the result was not so surprising, as many oil chemistries require time and temperature to enhance their effectiveness). Although based on limited data, the finding could be significant, and verification should be pursued. If the finding is verified, the mechanisms should be determined, and ramifications with respect to oil change intervals, filter involvement, and additive packages should be considered. A similar finding for diesel engines could have even greater significance, since the topics of extended oil drain and, in some cases heavy exhaust gas recirculation are of major interest. Although the conditioning run altered the oil, it did not stress or render it unusable (as noted, there is indication that it was tribologically improved). As such, the impact of testing with significantly stressed oil was not measured and remains a future objective."
  • csandstecsandste Member Posts: 1,866
    More wear? I meant "less wear".... :blush:
  • rhkalogerhkaloge Member Posts: 1
    So I've changed oil on some older cars before, nothing really to it - but it's always been obvious where the drain plug is. On my 2003 Malibu, it's not. There is a bolt right under the engine that is a good candidate, but it's not connected to anything that looks like an oil pan. I'm afraid it's the transmission. There is also a bolt next to the oil filter, but if I pull that one oil will pour all over the frame. The only description I could find said "behind the passenger side" but there isn't anything obvious there either. Plus, the book store was out of repair manuals and the mechanic I asked told me "if you can't find the plug, maybe you shouldn't change your oil". Thanks. Can anyone direct me to a picture of what the oil pan or drain plug is supposed to look like?
  • e2helpere2helper Member Posts: 1,002
    I don't have any first-hand knowledge but from info I could find (drawing from service manual) I can say it ISN'T any bolt near the oil filter.

    In fact it looks to be on the other side of engine (and low) but I can't be any more specific than that without having changed oil on one myself.
  • simonesimone Member Posts: 18
    Good Morning, I have a 2004 malibu LT getting close to 50,000 mile service, the manual calls for a transmission service at this time, and I am wondering if any of the newer malibu owners have gone thru this and what I can expect from the dealerships in the way of cost???? have any of you tried any other service centers such as aamco. I asked my local garage where i do all regular maintance,and was informed that they could not do the service since the transmission was a sealed unit...
    I am also considering changing my oil to synthetic and wonder if there will be any issues with my mileage being so high??? thanks for your all your quick responses... :):)
  • maxx4memaxx4me Member Posts: 1,340
    if it is your engine oil you are refering to, I cannot see a problem switching to synthetic (exept for the high price you will pay to have it done.
    I also can't see why an Aamco or Jiffy Lube would not be able to exchange the fluid with their machines. Just make sure they carry the exact tranny fluid type stated in the manual.
  • paopao Member Posts: 1,867
    I have over 52K on my Maxx LT....the manual states certain driving conditions that need to be met for the 50K transmission service..regular towing....lots of city stop and go traffic, dusty areas....doing from memory so dont remember all of them.....I dont think the average driver will meet most of these conditions...so the first true major service on the Maxx.isnt due till 100K.....

    would agree with Maxx4me.....use the recommended trans fluid....and have competent repair facility due the work...or a dealer you can trust....I think I saw a while back...quotes for another forum user that stated..a 50K service...anywhere in the 200 to 400 dollar range..but could be wrong.......I would simply call around to dealer service departments and ask about it...but again..check your owners manual and mygmlink.com...for recommended services

    Ive been running synthetic oil in my maxx since 30K..and change it every 6500 to 7000 miles...anything sooner is a waste IMHO.....that averages out to two of the 3K dino oil changes...so the cost averages out.....dont think you will have a problem switching at this point.....
  • simonesimone Member Posts: 18
    Thanks to you and maxx4me for your replies, checked out not only the dealer, who stated that "they will only flush out the transmission fluid" and refill but will not replace the filter which the owners guide call's for...all that for $135.00 bu also people at amco who will refill and replace the filter as called for $129.00...Jiffylube people reccommed a transmission shop in town, as they were not familiar with this transmiision???
    Reason why i am going to service the car at 500000 miles and not the 100000 point is because So. california driving is a bit harsher than eastern driving conditions due to higher temp average, I am in an area (desert) that 4 to 6 months out of the year 100 plus degrees are not uncommon...
    Once again thanks to both of you for your quick responses, other than normal maintance, i am very pleased with this car,and will probally drive another it two or three years before i am ready to get another one....
  • mybooomybooo Member Posts: 92
    Hello! Anyone experience any problems running 10% ethanol in their MAXX? Here in Iowa, it is getting harder to find non ethanol gas. Our old car (03 GTP) did not like ethaniol and got worse mileage with it. Ethanol blends are about 5-10 cents per gallon cheapier than the non ethanol, and like I said it is getting real hard to find non ethanol. Any comments pro or con? Thanks in advance!
  • paopao Member Posts: 1,867
    find it odd that a dealer wouldnt follow recommended maintenance guidelines.....replacing the filter.....interesting note.....and would agree with your So Ca driving conditions..so probably a good precautionary action....
  • meandmymaxxmeandmymaxx Member Posts: 134
    I have used nothing but 10% ethanol since getting my 05 Maxx. Last February, runs great gas mileage is about 34mpg imperial 60 / 40 city / hwy. Have never put anything else in so cant say if mileage would be any better.
  • mybooomybooo Member Posts: 92
    Thanks for the reply! I have decided to use the 10% ethanol for awhile and see if I can even tell a difference in anything. Thanks again!

    Larry :-)
  • meandmymaxxmeandmymaxx Member Posts: 134
    Good Idea, and I will try non ethanol to see if there is any difference.
  • mybooomybooo Member Posts: 92
    Just curious, does anyone know where the cabin air filter is on the 05 MAXX? And, is it hard to replace? Thanks in advance!
  • mybooomybooo Member Posts: 92
    OK, I have been running 89.5 Unleaded with 10% ethanol for the last few weeks. I do not see any difference in mileage or performance. Sure beats my 03 Grand Prix GTP that did not like ethanol :-)
  • prdmprdm Member Posts: 145
    Don't believe they came with filters in place though they seemed to have designed a structure to house them.
  • redmaxxredmaxx Member Posts: 627
    They did not come with a filter. But if you go to a Saturn dealer and ask for an Ion filter (costs ~12 here) you can just slip it in.

    Open the glove box and remove everything. Press in very hard on the sides of the glove box and wiggle it back and forth while trying to pull it away from the dash. Its best to work on getting only one side of the glove box free before working on the other. Once you have disengaged both sides, the glove box will drop down. Now you are looking for a door that is about 2-3 inches tall and about as wide as the filter. Be careful when opening it. I snapped the latches of by trying to undo them the wrong way. Slide the filter in. Pay attention to the markings on which way the air goes on the filter. Inside the car, the air travels downward within that compartment. Close the door and then snap the glove box back in place. You're done!

    If you should snap off the latches for that door, then you can a couple of pieces of strong tape (I use strapping take) to hold it in place.
  • mybooomybooo Member Posts: 92
    Thanks for the info! Sounds kinda hard :-) My luck I would break something :-(
  • maxx4memaxx4me Member Posts: 1,340
    the glove box is very hard to remove. I have to squeeze one side in about as hard as I can to remove one peg; then I do the other side. I would recommend cutting paper furnace filters instead of wasting money on GM filters. I don't believe you will break the plastic glove box; I have been very rough with mine attempting to get it off. It is well worth the effort since I have seen first hand the dirt and mold I am capturing.
  • handsbobhandsbob Member Posts: 4
    I have a problem with the idle. Sometimes it runs so slow it stalls, to keep it running you have to keep your foot on the gas. Other times it runs at 2500 RPMs and if you touch the gas it goes faster. Each time you start it up, that is the idle you have. Most of the time it runs right. If you have a problem you just shut it off and try again, it takes several times or over night The car has 172000 miles and it is cold outside 10to 30 degrees F. If anyone has had this problem I could use the fix. Or is there some other web site I should go to? Thanks
  • kurtamaxxguykurtamaxxguy Member Posts: 677
    you press one side inward at a time.

    Be sure there is a good solid support under the filter to prevent it getting sucked into the fan just below it.

    One furnace filter that has a plastic grille is WEB. You can cut this to fit the Malibu filter compartment and then put the media filter over the grille.
  • mybooomybooo Member Posts: 92
    Can anyone tell me where the PCV is located on the MAXX? It is about time to change it, and I am not sure where it is. I must be overlooking it! THanks in advance!
  • sgr5516sgr5516 Member Posts: 163
    It plugs into the front value cover to the right of oil fill cap.
  • mybooomybooo Member Posts: 92
    THANKS! Will change it this weekend!
  • dpeters04dpeters04 Member Posts: 3
    We bought a 2005 2.2 Malibu in may 2005 the all round Best Car we have ever owned.
    However early Sept. it began shuttering at idle in drive
    this went on till 5000 miles in December then the check engine lite came on
    took to Chevy dealer they stated the coil(ign.mod.) was gone and cleaned 2 spark plugs one week and 170 miles later the shutting and check lite came back again this time another coil(ing.mod.) :surprise: , 1 injector and 4 new plugs we are driving a fine runing car. But we are wondering when it will pop back up again,as the chevy dealer has no clue why 2 coils(ing mod) and injector have failed. Fingers Crossed.as of 01/07 06
  • tunabobtunabob Member Posts: 3
    Just got my Maxx(used 2005) and the only thing this car come with was an owners manual. dealer has ordered one, but setting up the auto garage door opener is driving me NUTS! Please, someone tell me how to set it. What the dealer showed me didn't work. Tia, tuna
  • kmaurerkmaurer Member Posts: 48
    Have you subscribed to MyGMLink.com? You can get an electronic copy of your owner's manual there.
  • tunabobtunabob Member Posts: 3
    Cool! Did it, got it, done.

    Thanks so much.
    tuna
  • john134john134 Member Posts: 1
    I had a remarkably similar experience with my 2001 Malibu LS: Had the fuel pump replaced after a non-start episode in 3/2004, and then had the ignition module replaced when the problem recurred a month later. This solved the problem until recently. The "theft" light now goes on for no apparent reason intermittently. No non-start episodes yet. Wondered if you had recurrent problems or if Chevy has addressed this systematic annoying problem?
  • qx56qx56 Member Posts: 69
    bought a set of michilin x at sams car never handeled so good corners like a sports car and the gas mileage is up
  • mybooomybooo Member Posts: 92
    OK, now thanks to your help here, I found the PCV. Now, how the heck does it come out? On our MAXX where the valve goes in, there is like a retaining type holder that looks to be riveted into the engine, thus the pcv does not pull out. I am stumped! I cannot pull the PCV out. Can anyone tell me what I am doing wrong? THANKS! Larry :-)
  • n0rsemann0rseman Member Posts: 8
    The PCV on the 3.5 in the Maxx is the fixed orifice type. These usually don't need to be changed.
  • mybooomybooo Member Posts: 92
    THANKS! I could not figure out how to get the old one out! I wonder why they even list it if it is not user serviceable? I bet it would be costly to replace it. Thanks again for the info!

    Larry :-)
  • hgallardohgallardo Member Posts: 3
    I cannot find the oil filter on my 2006 Chevy Malibu LS 2.2L engine?
    can any one help???.

    thanks
  • robbles1robbles1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a mother who is 85, in good health, and stil drives. She recently had a bunch of stuff done. Is she getting ripped off?

    The COOLANT JOB (Red light coming on; the diagnosis was she needed to have her manifold gasket replaced):
    Replaced manifold gasket 6.5 hours $585.00
    Replaced worn serpentine belt 45 .00
    Lube, oil, and filter completed $12.45
    Gasket KI 68.78
    Gasket 22.74
    Seal 2.16
    Coolant 24.32
    Sealant 17.00
    Bolt (4) 22.66
    Bolt (4) 26.32
    Belt 59.66
    Oil filter 7.00
    5W30 (6) 7.50
    PARTS 250.44
    gAS, OIL, grease 7.50
    Misc. supplies used 16.95
    TOTAL CHARGE-- $917.34

    Brake Job (not sure which brakes, I'll have to check)
    The brake job at the Shell Station was $469.73

    SUSPENSION Job:
    Replaced front strut tops, 4 wheel alignment 331.50
    Mount--213.96
    Nut 20.72
    Hub cap35.02
    Nisc. 16.95
    Lab mechanical 331.50
    TOTAL: 618.15
    Sales Tax 37.09
    Total-- 659.15
    so it adds up to 659.19---suspension
    976.33---coolant
    469.73---brakes
    ------------
    $2085.25 since 4/21/06
  • Karen_SKaren_S Member Posts: 5,092
    Check those figures with Edmund's Maintenance Guide.
  • mjohns7861mjohns7861 Member Posts: 41
    My 'bu has about 55K miles. A couple things:

    1. I still have not changed the transmission fluid. Supposed to be good for 100K miles. Should I change at this point? Same sparkplugs as well.

    2. Also, the AC unit is on the blink. This seems to be common problem with the Malibu's. AC light blinks on and off with the cold air. What's the fix for this?

    Thanks, Magnus
  • wxman4wxman4 Member Posts: 53
    My guess is the AC problem is the control head in the dash. I have gone through two of these with the symptoms you describe. It was about a $250 fix.

    Wxman
  • maxxolivermaxxoliver Member Posts: 78
    I am at the end of the year of free oil changes from the dealer and am now considering changing to synthetic oil my next oil change. I was wondering what experience others have had. Thanks
  • maxx4memaxx4me Member Posts: 1,340
    I kept my dinosaur oil in for only 6,000 miles. I switched to Mobil 1 then, and change it every 6,000 miles thereafter. It's a great way to maintain your engine. It is also very expensive if you have someone else do the work. I change my own oil, as well as some other minor functions.
  • starpop1starpop1 Member Posts: 10
    I plan to begin doing my own oil and filter changes on my 2005 MAXX. My ramps won't work so I'll have to use a jack and jackstands. I've never worked with jackstands before. Where is the best place to set the jackstands under the car? I like the car and don't want to damage it. Thanks, Peter.
  • maxxindmaxxind Member Posts: 22
    Starpop1, you might just want to investigate getting some less-steep ramps. I have a jack and jackstands, but I just use ramps when all I need to do is change the oil, because it's a lot quicker to just drive it up on the ramps. There are some black plastic ones I've seen which are a more gradual incline than the typical steel ones. The ones I use are solid wood ones that were made from railroad ties.

    I use Mobil 1 synthetic in my '05 Maxx. I put it in when it had about 7,000 miles on it. Fuel economy and performance is not noticeably different from what I had with regular oil. The engine uses a very small amount of oil (as it did with regular oil). If I didn't top it up by dribbling in a few ounces here and there, it might go down 1/3 of a quart in 6,000 miles or so, which is obviously not a problem.

    For the change interval, I follow the oil life monitor system. I start thinking of changing it when it gets down to 20 percent or so, and I don't think I've run it below about 14 or 15 percent, which means the oil is staying in about 7,500 miles in warm weather and 6,000 in cold weather. It could go another 1,000 or 1,500 if I took it down to zero percent, but zero could come at a time when it was not convenient to do an oil change, so I just prefer to do it a little early so I can pick the time when I do it.

    I really like the oil life monitor because it takes into consideration the type of use the engine is seeing. I think it's far preferable to follow that than stick to a certain mileage figure for changes. The synthetic oil does make me feel better about those long change intervals it calls for, though.
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