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Chevrolet Malibu: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • tom83tom83 Member Posts: 10
    Thanks for the info on the guards. I'll check it out.
    Tom
  • mdennishmdennish Member Posts: 16
    has anyone added a 6 disc fm modulated cd changer to their maxx? if so, what brand and where did you mount it?,i have looked but unable to find one that will fit in the console or the glovebox. ithe dealer wants $800.00 for a 6 disc changer plus installation and programming fees=$1,000 [too much] thanks for your input!
  • jose_mx18jose_mx18 Member Posts: 4
    Sorry forgot to mention all that. I have a chevy malibu 1998. And the exterior parking lights work. The only thing that is not functioning are the interior lights that are suppose to turn on at night time. Example the instrumental panel lights up so you could see how fast your going, how much fuel you got etc. All those buttons that are suppose to light up at night in the inside, are not. I have checked the both the side panel fuses and all seem to be working. And also the fuse rely box underneath the hood are all working too. If you need anymore information just let me know and I'll be sure to get it to you.
  • e2helpere2helper Member Posts: 1,002
    NP - So 1998 Malibu, Exterior Park Lamps OK but the weird thing is not all the stuff that is supposed to be backlit work. We probably need to go thru each separately - just see if ANY of these seem to have backlighting functional.

    Instrument Cluster (gauges) - You already said yes to that one
    Hazard Switch?
    AC Control Head (below radio)
    Ashtray Lamp (if there is one)
    Trunk Release Switch
    Gear Display indicator on shifter
    Radio (buttons - not the display)
    Fog Lamp switch (if you have fog lamps)
    Panel Dimmer Switch (with thumbwheel)

    Then on the doors:
    Driver Mirror Switch
    Driver Window Switch
    Driver Door Lock Switch
    Passenger Door Lock Switch
    Passenger Window Switch
    Sunroof Switch

    If only the Instrument Cluster lights up does the intensity change with operation of the "panel dimmer switch"??

    That's it for now - The fuse most involved with this stuff is on right hand side of instrument panel (called INST LAMPS on "label"). There is a separate transistor module that created the dimmer output voltage depending on the position of the panel dimmer switch.
  • 04bu04bu Member Posts: 16
    According to my dealer, the left front turn signal was burned out. This despite no soot in the bulb, filament looked intact and an electronics meter indicated continuity on the filament. Well, at least the directional works again. No charge for the new bulb :) .

    Plus, I got my new headrests installed today. The angle of the old ones didn't bother me much although I was aware of them at my head. With the new ones installed, I believe I was driving with my head slightly tilted forward. Anyone who has an '04 really should get the new headrests for your car. There was no charge for the headrests :) .

    Cheers, and hopefully this is the last time I need to post on this board.
  • 04bu04bu Member Posts: 16
    I've seen one like this on a late model Camry. Unfortunatley I couldn't get a good look or check its strength. A co-worker who bicycles talked up this type where the bicycle rests on the tires.

    http://www.prolineracks.com/sportrack-a30901-2ez-bike-racks.html

    I don't think I've ever seen any type of trailer hitch on a new ('04 and later) Malibu.

    Does anyone have a receiver hitch on their malibu?
  • maxx4memaxx4me Member Posts: 1,340
    I do, and I have the exact bike rack you showed. As long as the bike is on the outer hoop, the hatch lifts clear of the bike rack. If you have a bike also on the inner hoop (closest to the car), you will have to remove it before opening the hatch. I love it.
  • newbunewbu Member Posts: 2
    I just picked up my 05 maxx this monday. Later that afternoon i starting to hear a rattling over by the passenger side of the car. I haven't put anything in side pockets or glove compartment, the rattling seems to only be when driving local and rougher streets....anyone had this before?
  • willscarywillscary Member Posts: 21
    check to see if it is the key vibrating on the dash. There is a rubber bumper to help this, but when I had a lot of keys on my keychain, the thing rattled relentlessly.
  • jose_mx18jose_mx18 Member Posts: 4
    The Instrumental Cluster (gauges) does function but the "night light" or "backlighting" is NOT working.
    The Hazard Switch does function but has the same problem as (gauge) night light isn't working.
    AC Control Head does function but night light is not working.
    Trunk Release does function but night light not working
    Gear Display indicator on shifter , the night light is also not working.
    Radio Well I have a Custom Cd Player but all the lights on that are working.
    Panel Dimmer Switch (with thumbwheel) is not working at all.

    Driver Mirror Switch Does function but night light not working
    Driver Window Switch Does function but night light not working
    Driver Door Lock Switch does function but night light not working
    Passenger Door Lock Switch Does not have night light at least I dont believe so and if it does, I"m sure it doesn't have night light also
    Passenger Window Switch does function but night light not working

    Well I checked the fuse with a light tester and it lit up so I suppose the fuse is still working. I managed to look at the wires that are connected to the gauge and its a gray wire, and its the same wire thats found in the AC Control Head, Hazard Switch, and all the other buttons that have "night light" or "back lighting" funtion. I hope this will help you or give you in idea so you could determine the problem. Because even though I can drive my car in the daytime, I can't drive in the night time because all interiors lights are completely off.
  • 79377937 Member Posts: 390
    I'm sure your problem lies with the dimmer control. That is the common denominator to all the interior lights. As I recall, there have been problems with it. It's a module that can be replaced.
  • 79377937 Member Posts: 390
    I've just checked a typical GM circuit diagram. I do not have a circuit diagram for your model car. I would assume that GM would tend to keep their color coding the same. However, the gray wire comes from the lamp dimmer module and goes to all the instrument lights. I'm pretty sure you have a problem with the lamp dimmer module.
  • e2helpere2helper Member Posts: 1,002
    Well that makes a lot more sense that the cluster backlighting isn't working along with everything else. I wouldn't have detailed all that stuff in last post knowing that :)

    Regarding how you checked the INST LAMPS fuse, you likely just checked continuity of fuse and not whether it had voltage on it, right? If you used a test light what did you connect other end to (battery or ground)?

    I agree with other poster that other than a wiring problem the component most likely to be not working correctly is the lamp dimmer module. It is the device that actually feeds power to the INST LAMP fuse so you might want to take another look at that fuse and check if you have voltage on it with exterior park lights on. If not then next step (if you want to dig into this further) would be to locate the lamp dimmer module and check voltages at it. It only has 3 wires going to it (Park Lamp feed:Brown wire; Panel Switch Control circuit: Dark Green; and its output to INST fuse:Brown/White wire).

    This thing is basically a power transistor which is controlled by the dimmer switch signal. I don't know how much further you want to take this yourself but I know a lamp dimmer module isn't too expensive if that is what is needed.
  • sblfromnssblfromns Member Posts: 14
    Thanks again for the info. I did find the TSB and the PCM calibration info. The dealer ordered the tranny parts and they came in.

    While booking my apt. to have the tranny fixed, I mentioned the TSB and calibration info. The service mgr. claimed that they routinely flash the pcm to the latest version per GM's recommendation anytime the car is serviced. That's quite a different story than what he gave me when I was there a couple of weeks ago.

    I said I had the latest calibration and wanted to verify that my car is up-to-date. I have my apt. tomorrow, so I'll go over it with him then.

    Anything I need to mention or be aware of when dropping my car off for this service? I hope that they don't mess up anything!
  • maxx4memaxx4me Member Posts: 1,340
    yep, they should indeed check for TSBs and any computer software reflashes each time you bring in your car. Nothing comes to mind regarding your car's operation, so I have no sage advice.
    How about this one: I took my Maxx in for the front rotor noise, and FOR THE SECOND TIME, they turned my rotors. My Service Manager, who is top notch, told me that GM won't allow them to put in new rotors if there is still enough meat on the rotor to "turn" them. However, my SM knows that I will be back before the 36k warranty runs out since I've now had them turned at 10k and 17k. There is no way that these will last until 36k. The SM said that it was a paperwork nightmare to get new ones put on, especially knowing that GM had my rotor thickness calibrations on file from the first time I brought it in. No matter; there is no doubt that new one's will be forthcoming before too long. I did ask about having aftermarket ones put on the next time; they gave me the usual liability story, but did not close the door on doing so. I'll press the issue again when my OEM rotors reach point of failure.
  • poj2001malibupoj2001malibu Member Posts: 3
    My husband and I have a 2001 Malibu that we bought 6 months ago, thinking we were getting a "reliable" car. We read some reviews that said Malibus ranked with Toyota Camry. Needless to say, we have found otherwise. Our car has been in the shop 6 times in the past 2 months, and the problem STILL isn't fixed.

    The starter will turn over fine, but the ignition doesn't fire half of the time. The doors will automatically lock and unlock at odd times, which keeps the car from starting. Sometimes they will unlock while we're driving down the road, which causes the engine to shut off, which makes it hard to steer and put on brakes. The AC shuts on and off at will. The whole brake system had to be replaced; mechanic said that has happened with a lot of Malibus. The windshield lining came loose, which caused water to leak into the floorboard and destroy the airbag sensor. Also, we had to reset the theft system over and over.

    The first time the car was in the shop for not starting, the mechanic said that it was the airbag sensor that needed replacing, so we had him to unplug the airbags- $90. The second time the car was in the shop for not starting, the mechanic said it was the ignition module- $300.

    We decided that Chevrolet should know best what was wrong with it, so we took it to them. They said the reason why it wasn't starting was because of the starter- $300. After picking up the car, guess what..... it did the same thing again! Chevrolet says this time, "It's the Passlock Security System sensor". $300!

    I get the car back, and on the way home from Chevrolet, it shuts off! So, this time they graciously offer to "take me wherever I need to go" while they check it out. The car was in the shop for 4 days this last time, and Chevrolet finally admits that they don't know WHAT is wrong with the car. ...thanks for the info after we've maxed out our credit cards! Now that we searched on the internet, I see that everyone else is having the same problems with Malibus, and Chevrolet can't figure it out.

    Has anyone else experienced the same thing, and if so, did you EVER GET IT FIXED?

    PS. If anyone out there has trouble with their theft system causing the doors to unlock and lock, do NOT worry about getting your car worked on! Sell it! It will only get worse! Search the internet and see for youself!
  • newbunewbu Member Posts: 2
    thanks for the suggestion, i only use the one key. i made an appt. with the dealer i guess i will see what happens.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Please e-mail the host. Your e-mail address is not responding. Thank you,

    MrShiftright
  • jose_mx18jose_mx18 Member Posts: 4
    I'd just like to say THANK YOU VERY MUCH. It was the INST LAMPS fuse that was acutally burnt up and didn't work anymore. Even though I tested it with a light tester and it lit up. I dont really understand why but I pulled that fuse you told me to pull out and there it was the fuse was burnt and so I replaced it and kaboom all the lights go on. Like I said I just want to thank you very much for helping me out. You saved me lots of money from me taking it somewhere to fix a simple problem that a mechanic would of made it big and charged me to much for something as simple as pulling out the right fuse. once again THANKS
  • e2helpere2helper Member Posts: 1,002
    NP and thanks for letting us know you were successful :D
  • 79377937 Member Posts: 390
    I'm glad you found the fault.
  • 79377937 Member Posts: 390
    Problem - the horn on my 2004 Malibu works intermittently. I seem to recall that I had problems with it from new but didn't bother too much about it. As the car is still under warranty, what do you suggest? Have you heard of this problem before?
  • maxx4memaxx4me Member Posts: 1,340
    hmmm, I think I may have that problem too. I thought I was going crazy. Perhaps you and I need to aim more for the center chevy logo and reduce the smashing of our palms around the perimeter of the horn area :D
  • 79377937 Member Posts: 390
    I've tried the center as well. Doesn't work at all then.
  • e2helpere2helper Member Posts: 1,002
    I am not familiar with any known issue with horn being intermittently inop. I would think more likely it would be completely inoperative (something disconnected) or you would have a complaint that it sounds when you don't want it to.

    When you get it in situation where the horn doesn't seem to honk can you sit there and push on it and get nothing to happen? If so a few things of interest could be observed (although I realize you might not be in a situation to be able to do them if driving). #1 - If the cruise control ON/OFF switch is ON is the telltale in switch illuminated? #2 - If you are stopped somewhere when this is noticed and can turn the ignition OFF, when you activate the LOCK button on keyless entry fob mulitiple times does the horn "chirp" - this only works when ignition off.

    The first test does a crude check of a portion of the electrical circuitry in the steering wheel wiring, the second check makes sure that the horn and relay themselves work when this happens and your issue is more related to something with the steering wheel.

    That is about all you can do on your own. The dealer would likely need to remove the horn pad to check electrical connections - this requires special precautions due to airbag system.
  • 79377937 Member Posts: 390
    Thanks for the reply. Cruise control works fine. Horn always chirps when using remote eg., when locking and then pressing lock again. Have also changed horn relay with same type. Horn will sound sometimes while driving. Same with cruise control on or off. Both left and right side of steering wheel have same intermittent response. While parked and idling horn will have intermittent response.

    I am aware of airbag issues so I do not want to investigate further but somehow it appears to me that there are bad horn contacts. Unless of course the BCM (heaven forbid) has something to do with it. Has the BCM maybe got an input from the horn contacts seeing as the remote can also chirp the horn ?
  • e2helpere2helper Member Posts: 1,002
    Here is how it works. The fuse/relay underhood are used for both activating the horn with the horn switch or by BCM when you use the key fob. So because the horn always worked with the key fob you really didn't have to replace relay.

    The horn switch is wired to the relay directly and so the BCM doesn't have to take any "real" action to have horn operate. I put that in quotes because the wiring from the horn switch does go TO the BCM but it really just passes through it to be "combined" with the BCM's output used when you activate horn with key fob, theft system etc. There is no logic involved for horn switch operation.

    So there is a slight chance that the problem might be a poor wiring contact going into the BCM for this horn switch contact but it is more likely it would be the wiring connection to the horn switch itself found under the horn pad in the steering wheel. There is a separate connection for that.

    When I asked about the cruise control I really was trying to give you a check to see whether a good "ground" was available to the steering wheel. the cruise control function itself doesn't require a ground, the ground is only used for the ON/OFF indicator in the switch. On second thought probably a better check would be when it is dark out if the steering wheel switch illumination works. All of those functions (as well as the horn switch) rely on the steering wheel being grounded which is done by a wire to steering wheel.

    Having said that make sure you horn switch doesn't do something weird like only work when it is daytime out but not work at nighttime. Not sure if you might follow where I am going.......

    When you say horn sounds sometimes when driving does that mean without you requesting it?

    Final question. To you knowledge has any work been done on vehicle which required removal of steering wheel? Such as a steering column replacement.
  • poj2001malibupoj2001malibu Member Posts: 3
    I had my address set on "private".
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    that's not the problem. It bounces back. Is it a good address? I'll test it.
  • e2helpere2helper Member Posts: 1,002
    One additional comment, it is good that you found problem but blown fuses have a way of happening again unless you can come up with a reason on why it happened in the first place. The normal load in vehicle on that particular fuse won't result in a blown fuse but things like chafed wires or someone doing modifications to vehicle and shorting something out. Aftermarket equipment can also be suspected.

    So again good it is fixed but if it happens again let us know. :)
  • poj2001malibupoj2001malibu Member Posts: 3
    Has anyone else had this problem with the Chevrolet Malibu? If so, did you ever get it fixed???

    We've had this done so far:

    * Ignition module replaced
    * Electronic ignition switch replaced
    * Pass-lock theft system sensor replaced
    * Airbags unplugged

    :confuse:
  • redmaxxredmaxx Member Posts: 627
    It doesn't work in the center no matter how hard you press? You have an '04 Malibu, not Classic, right? If so, try this when honking the horn. Look at the bottom spokes of the steering wheel, where the center cover meets the rest of the wheel. Press the horn and you can see that the cover pivots down. Try pressing on the lower spokes and see if it honks any better. I notice that I can make it pivot some without getting a honk.
  • 79377937 Member Posts: 390
    Thanks for the response. I swapped relays with a similar one from the engine compartment fuse block before I realized that all horn functions worked from the key fob. So as you say, that would eliminate the horn wiring.

    Yes, I did have the steering colunm changed but I was having problems before that with the horn - I should have mentioned it to the mechanic but at that time I did not think of it. All switch illuminations work on the steering wheel. So, it would seem as if the grounding is good.

    No, the horn works at times in the daytime - I haven't tried it at night yet - don't know where you're going with that one ! By working "intermittently" I mean it only works at certain times when I press the horn. It does not sound on its own.

    Thank goodness there isn't any logic involved in the horn circuit from the steering wheel !
  • 79377937 Member Posts: 390
    I have an 04 base model Malibu 2.2L engine. No, no matter how hard I press in the center the horn does not sound. I've tried pressing the lower spokes too and I will get intermittent operation only. It works on occasion when I press in the area of the horn symbols. I think I need a trip to the dealer on this one. It's the airbag issue that persuades me not to investigate further.
  • e2helpere2helper Member Posts: 1,002
    OK,

    At this point I have no further suggestions, I only hope the problem is repeatible enough that the dealer will be able to duplicate it so they can quickly root cause issue.

    Good luck :)
  • redmaxxredmaxx Member Posts: 627
    I wouldn't worry too much about the airbag. I recently had the Chevy emblem on the weel drop into the steering wheel (exposing the airbag) and they replaced the airbag and steering wheel cover.
  • e2helpere2helper Member Posts: 1,002
    It just needs to be treated with proper respect ;)
  • 79377937 Member Posts: 390
    I'm not sure what you mean by that. All my service manuals warn that the airbag must be disarmed in the proper manner when working on the steering wheel. Expensive damage could be done and personal injury could result if not done correctly. I do not have a service manual for the new Malibu so am not sure of the procedure. Seeing as I now suspect bad horn contacts, the only way to check on that is to remove the airbag.

    I have followed e2helper's advice and have checked the steering wheel illuminations which are all working correctly. That confirms that the horn ground is working so it can only be the contacts now. As a matter of interest e2helper, how many contacts are there and what form do they take?
  • redmaxxredmaxx Member Posts: 627
    My car goes in tomorrow (rear seat handle snapped off and dome lamp inop) and I was wondering if GM finally developed a fix for the hatch relatching when one shuts the driver's door. Its driving me crazy and I would like to know if its fixed.

    Thanks!
  • e2helpere2helper Member Posts: 1,002
    I haven't looked at one for a while but from what I can remember there are 4 round protrusions off the structure of steering wheel beneath the horn pad/airbag assembly. When you press the horn pad its "backplate" makes contact with one or more of those protrusions which completes the circuit grounding the wire going to the relay coil in underhood electrical center which energizes the relay.

    There are springs somewhere which suspends the horn pad off of these protrusions normally.

    Hope that was good enough explanation.
  • e2helpere2helper Member Posts: 1,002
    As you can see I retype title because I don't like to see my name there ;)

    I am not aware of any changes made in that area but you could ask dealer if you hadn't already done so. You are aware of the liftgate release switch on underside of rear applique, correct? This can be used to unlatch the liftgate as long as passenger doors not locked.
  • redmaxxredmaxx Member Posts: 627
    Sorry, I didn't realize that, I just wanted to get your attention. :D

    Yes, I'm aware of that button. It gets frustrating if I press the door lock button, shut my door, hatch relatches, I stop for X seconds and then the doors lock. When that happens, I can't use that button and then have to fumble around for the remote fob. If I recall there was a TSB or PI for the tailgate where it would partially relatch when any door is shut. It said that GM Engineering was working on a fix and owners would be notified when one was developed. I think that was 8-12 months ago. A little long to be working on a fix don't you think? ;)
  • 79377937 Member Posts: 390
    Thanks. I now suspect that there is a wire trapped under the horn pad that prevents the pad from being fully depressed. The right side of the pad goes down easily but the left side hardly moves downwards. Do you think this could be possible?
  • e2helpere2helper Member Posts: 1,002
    Oh yes, very much so even though I would still suspect it might have occurred when column was replaced. There is a bit of wire that needs to be routed underneath the horn pad to the airbag and they might not have tucked it out of the way enough.

    If it is that obvious regarding motion of horn pad then by all means point it out to dealer on next visit. It is pretty easy for them to reposition.

    I knew I should have inquired more about how well it operated from different sides as other poster alluded to ;)
  • e2helpere2helper Member Posts: 1,002
    You are correct about an old PI, I know about it as well and looked it up to see if there was an update - there wasn't. This doesn't necessarily mean that something wasn't done. I will do a little research but am not promising anything ;)
  • 79377937 Member Posts: 390
    Well, I've repaired my horn problem. I searched on the internet and came up with this manual with information on how to disable and enable the airbag on the new Malibu. Zone 3, page 2-159.

    http://www.gmgoodwrench.com/gmgoodwrenchjsp/gmspo/Chevrolet/Malibu/2004-2005/00_Complete_M- - anual.pdf

    The thing is that I cannot afford to have the car tied up for how long at the dealer. After following the disabling procedure I removed the upper and lower steering colunm covers and then the back cover of the steering wheel - 2 Torx screws - and I saw the problem without removing the airbag.

    The 3 wires from on/off button for the cruise control (left side of wheel) were snagged under the top left hand corner of the horn pad. There is a plastic stop where the horn pad bottoms against and the wires were under that.

    The routing of those wires is rather tight and I predict that more problems will arise with other new Malibus. They have to pass pretty close to the top left hand bottom stop of the horn pad. I think this needs looking into.

    Anyway, my horn now operates from any angle on the horn pad. My neighbors are also happy that I've solved the problem.
  • hammy233hammy233 Member Posts: 24
    Hello.......Sorry I do not own a Malibu, maybe a should though,...a question? I own/lease a 2005 Saturn Relay(uplander SV6 Terraza), from my research and reading I see that our vehicles share the same engine,alternators and I believe tranny.....3.5l LX9...my issue is Flickering headlights and dash lights, I am on alternator #4 and still no resolve..do any of you fine Malibu owners have similar problems or is this something unique to the CSV`s. Your reply1s and help is greatly appreciated. :lemon:
  • e2helpere2helper Member Posts: 1,002
    Hi,
    I don't recall any similar posts from Malibu owners but a question for you. Is this a fast flickering or something more gradual? I know that your vehicle has a slightly different charging system which has the ability to vary the vehicle system voltage under certain conditions, if it was something that changed gradually I would wonder about that.
  • 79377937 Member Posts: 390
    I would look for a bad ground connection. That would cause flickering lights and also cause the alternator to blow when the alternator has no load. There are many grounding points to check. Also check your battery connections.
  • hammy233hammy233 Member Posts: 24
    Thanks.....where would the most common groundings points be?....this flickering is in the dash lights too....I would love to find the fault in this and make the dealership eat crow....would the computer controlled alternator have anything to do with this?
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