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Comments
Before you check for fuel pressure why not check if the fuel pump relay is energizing when you turn the ignition on. It typically will run pump for about 2 seconds to prime it when you turn on ignition. You might have to wait about 30 seconds with ignition off to do another "prime". I am not sure of the time. The fuse and relay for fuel pump is located in underhood fuse/relay center. If the fuel pump relay is energizing then the question is if the pump is getting that power and then if pump is actually running (you already said you think that is not the case) and finally if you are getting any fuel pressure.
I know that the current Malibu V6 engine has a Schrader valve on the fuel line underhood with a cap on it that you could test to check if it has pressure. Of course, take precautions if you do this because it is normally under pressure and it is a flammable liquid.
It has been scary to see all of the issues with the Malibu posted on the internet, there certainly seem to be numerous systems with design or parts failures.
Thanks again for the great tip.
Does anyone else have experience with this problem or have any ideas what else it may be?
Thanks.
-Matt
I had commented on Audi A3 forum that the Maxx could be a viable alternative if trim was a little nicer and AWD was available. Oy, did the Audi folks go wild. Keep in mind the A3 will run $5-20K more than any Maxx, and is essentially a VW GOLF with nicer trim.
So if you feel your new Malibu Maxx shimmy from applying brakes, get it into the shop before 12K !!
With a digital vom set to DC volts, put the + meter probe onto terminal A of the sensor. Put the - probe onto terminal B of the sensor. Have someone crank the engine. The meter should indicate a 5 volt reference pulse. If not, the CKP is most probably defective.
Thanks,
Kim
http://www.artsautomotive.com/Mileage.htm
Also do you have any "check engine lights" on ?
I have never seen this light show up during startup. Is it supposed to light up during start?
If not, How can I find out if this light is working?
I am planning my semi-annual dealer visit for oil change and there are couple annoying problems I want to address. One is - there is a ticking noise then engine is cold and it goes away with warm up. Sounds like lifters on my old Mazda (btw I know that there is no lifters in this engine). Any idea?
I can bet my money that there will be "problem cannot be replicated" response...
According to your owners manual that light will turn on briefly when you turn the key to on.
Owner's manual for initial 2004 model was incorrect. It was corrected for 2nd printing of 2004 manual
If you want to force on the indicator to light up one thing you could do (if you want to try this) is pop open hood and take a look for the coolant recovery bottle attached to front of dash. Look for wiring connector to this bottle and disconnect it from the bottle. Now turn on ignition and wait for about 10 seconds. The LOW COOLANT message will show up in Driver Info Center, chime sounds and the "Service Vehicle Soon" should illuminate. Just plug back in and the lamp will go off in a few seconds.
Thanks!
I have this problem after driving in rain or snow, then leaving the car sit for the weekend, or once in a while overnight.
This is for a 1999 3.1 l
Wrt Brake rotors:
Has anyone else found that (thanks to bad wheel torquing, etc) their disk brake rotors become warped and cause braking pulsing, __if__ the wheels are then remounted and retorqued __properly__, after a time (say 500 miles or so) the shuddering will diminish or possibly go away?
I've noticed that on my '04 Maxx. A real pity most dealers haven't a clue on how to properly torque wheels (had to go to a good tire shop for that).
No doubt if the rotor metal is __really__ bent, it can't be unbent by retorquing.
But for milder cases, I'm not so sure - if a bend is caused by one or two bolts being too tight, then possibly the bend can be removed by overtightening of bolts on the __opposite__ side of the wheel. All depends what part of the rotor/flange assembly is being bent.
Turn signal flasher is part of hazard switch assembly. There was a campaign (recall) on the turn signal/flasher which applied to some 1999 Malibu - so you might want to check into that - #04098A
The park brake switch is part of the park brake lever assembly. You don't need to remove the dash even if you were trying to replace the whole assembly. I don't remember how hard it is to see. I know you might have to move the carpet slightly out of the way.
I have seen some cases however where just being confusing didn't explain what was being seen. I am not sure if this is the case with your vehicle however. First of all do you use both key fobs with vehicle or only one? Other thing I wanted to mention is that the system remembers the key fob used to UNLOCK the vehicle - LOCK button on fob doesn't mean anything to personalization feature. You can't erase setting but you could program them to be the same (for at least the radio presets). That wouldn't help with remembering last CD track or Band though.
I will check into this a little further
The tires were rotated again at 11,800 miles. Again about 3,000 mi later the pulsing problem returned. They turned all 4 rotors at 18,000 mi. Again no charge and all was well.
There is a 12 Page Service bulletin for all GM vehicles that explains in detail the Brake Warranty Service and Procedures that should be followed. It specifically says that improper torqing of lug nuts can cause lateral run out and pulsing problems. The bulletin number is 00-05-22-002E, last updated March 2005. There may be a later version F, which adds the 2006 model cars and light duty trucks.
I went out and purchased a torque wrench. Whenever I have my tires rotated, or wheels removed by anyone, as soon as I get home, I retorque the lug nuts to 100 ftlb. I have not had any pulsing problems since, now have 25,000 mi.
Contrary to what dealers may tell you, the service bulletin says that rotors are covered under the 3/36 warranty. The rotors must be refinished (turned), not replaced. However, if they do this multiple times and the rotors go below the minimum thickness, they must replace them under warranty. Unfortunately, they will use the same crappy rotors.
Per Consumers U, Malibus have had a ___long___ history of brake problems. I suspect this rotor issue may be the primary culprit.
Also is it just one screw that hold in the release switch for the park brake in?
Eric
Would you be willing to post back last 6 of your VIN so can get an idea of history?
I don't have enough info about how the switch is attached to assembly. Service info doesn't have specifics about the replacement of the park brake switch and it has been too long since I have seen one personally to remember it.
But very worrysome that service departments often don't read the info GM sends them. Might explain who so many of them ___don't___ know what they are doing?