Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
thnx!
This "LOCKED" when it occurs during a remote start happens because the BCM wakes up the radio during a remote start but doesn't send it the security information the radio needs to UNLOCK. This information is just sent out when you put key in the ignition and turn it on.
I know that later BCM software made a change to correct this. I am not sure if that was done by NOT waking up the radio during a remote start or by sending out security information during a remote start.
There, now you probably have more information about this than the dealer
What worried me is the inconsistencey of the display. Sometimes I get the Locked message, as well as outdoor temperature indications. Sometimes not.
My dealer (who revamped their service department) is taking a crack at that, as well as the dim DIC display (sunlight washes it right out). But I am doubtful they can do much.
My worries are triggered by the rock bottom electrical reliability record that the Malibu gets from CU. Hopefully the changes for '04 squeltched a lot of those (CU rates the Maxx "average" which is better than the standard 'Bu).
Meanwhile, for those that wonder, that '04 transmission issue was for vehicles built after 1/18/04. As mine was built before that date, I guess there is no reason to worry.
As long as this wierdness has no effect on the engine control functions, I'll leave sleeping BCM's lie.
From the PCM update is what I was referring to. Two things went "inadvertently" wrong. Half the time when I shift into drive the car slams into drive and when I slow to a stop from highway speeds the car lurches around 50-60 mph. So, my point was that even though the update didn't say anything about an effect like that, it caused unintentional problems. For example, the chance may be one in ten thousand but a BCM update could, say, screw up the locking function of your doors.
Most likely my Maxx will be retired next year anyway (would like AWD , and by that time those newcommers like Dodge Caliber should have the bugs worked out of them).
Also, I've got what looks like oil leaking onto some parts of the engine and transmission. My dealer says there is nothing wrong, but I'm not sure I agree. I'll post pictures later if anyone can look. I plan to take the pictures, clean the engine bay and see how it does over the next several weeks, taking pictures along the way.
Oh yeah, forgot this one. I had a remote start failure right before taking it into the dealer so I mentioned it to them and how they can scan for codes indicating the failure. It came back no codes found. Why would this be?
e2, thanks for all your help!
There are several conditions that intentionally will prevent remote start from working. Many of them don't set a fault code - because they aren't really faults. The BCM contains a "remote start disable history" which helps somewhat when diagnosing because it records the reason the BCM last didn't allow or disabled a remote start. I still don't think many technicians use this information. I might send a query out on another site with that question
I still see many cases with customers and technicians who just don't understand how remote start works - I know this isn't your situation but I am still surprised after system in the field over 2 years. Main thing is not realizing that you can ONLY do 2 remote starts before having to cycle key in ignition and not doing the button press sequence correctly (press and release LOCK and then immediately press and hold REMOTE START).
Please report back a little more detail on your experience with the remote start failure.
I can't seem to upload the pictures right now of the oil, but if you can imagine the PCV valve line that goes back to the air intake, the point where it meets the air intake is (was, until I cleaned it) oily. Does this mean my PCV valve needs replacing?
why is the columm being replaced so often? There are issues with proper setup (the service shop has to know what it's doing as there are various calibration procedures required).
Sticking windows (if it's just when the windows open from being totally closed) should be minimized by cleaning the upper seals and lightly coating them with a dry film lubricant.
I believe the remote start disable history "flag" in BCM lasts for only about 50 ignition key cycles before being cleared (however that is only from MY memory - I didn't look it up). If I get a chance tomorrow I will and post back if anything significantly different.
I think there are 11 or 12 different reasons several are pretty obvious things (like leaving key in ignition)
The only items of the ones you mention I have suggestion on is #1 driving lights and #5 fuel tank.
For #1 I just have a question - what is it that you are calling the driving lights indicator? Just reference something in the owner manual by page number and I will look it up.
For #5 most often the issue WAS with fuel tank itself. I know you indicate it was replaced but it is still possible the new tank had same condition. I believe there is a new PCM calibration which made gauge less sensitive to tank issues but I don't know if that was introduced as a way to not have to change tank or an additional improvement.
If you get a chance post back build date or, if you are willing, the last 6 of your VIN
I'm stilling trying to figure out about the turn signal clicking noise. I replaced the hazard/turn signal flasher but it still clicks every so often. Anyone have any ideas?
Also does anyone know where to get the plastic PVC 90 degree angle? Mine is cracking and I don't want to pay $34 CAD for one.
Eric
This is NOT normal. Mine is doing it but my dealer forgot about it last time it went in. I can actually wiggle the drivers headlamp around quite a bit. It looks like one of the bolts holding it on is coming loose.
Thanks I'll ask them about it when it goes in.
As for the windows, they stick overnight and it only happens on the passenger side.
Now, about this howling transmission, does it have to be changed?
>>>>>>
Re the noise you mention, this TSB from GM might cover it:
ASI Resolution - Growl or Howl Type Noise From Transmission/Engine Compartment During Light to Moderate Acceleration from a Stop (Replace Drive Link, Drive Sprocket and Driven Sprocket) #04-07-30-021A - (Jul 2, 2004)
2004 Chevrolet Malibu, Malibu Maxx
2004 Oldsmobile Alero
2004 Pontiac Grand Am
Built After January 16, 2004
with 4T45E Automatic Transaxles (RPO MN5) Built Between Julian Date 4016 and 4126 and
3.4L or 3.5L V6 Engine (VINs E, 8 - RPOs LA1, LX9)
This bulletin is being revised to include a repair procedure and parts availability information.
Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 04-07-30-021 (Section 07-Transmission/Transaxle).
Condition
Some customers may comment on a growl or howl type noise during light to moderate acceleration from a stop. This noise is load and engine RPM sensitive and will occur between 1500 RPM to approximately 2300 RPM. The noise is most noticeable in first and second gear. The noise may dissipate prior to the 1-2 shift, but will be noticed again in second gear depending on the load and engine RPM. The pitch of the noise will change during the 1-2 shift.
Cause
The noise is due to the new 5/8 inch drive link assembly being at a resonant frequency during certain driving conditions.
Correction
Important
Only RPO MN5 transaxles built between Julian date 4016 and 4126 have 5/8 inch drive link assemblies. Refer to Transmission ID and VIN Derivative Location, SI Document ID #760312 for Julian date location information.
Follow the service procedure below to replace the 5/8 inch drive link and sprockets with a 7/8 inch drive link and sprockets
The indicator is the on button for the driving lights (the red light indicating it was on went out but the lights worked.
Because the fuel was still off they wanted me to (get this) run the tank as close to empty and fill it again to get a more "accurate" reading and then bring it in. (Maybe I should just run it to empty and let them come and get it and fill it themselves, they do own me at some gas from taking the tank out 3 times.
Redmaxx, thank you, I thought I was the only one out there with the bouncing headlight. Trouble is they have told me twice that everything is tight and it's normal (even though 6+ cars in their own lot do not do it).
After avoiding them for 2 years, 3 months ago I discovered dealers' management had fired their entire service department. The new crew actually seems to know what they are doing, and have done a decent job the three times I have been in for various warranty work.
Point? Chevy Dealer service is extremely variable, and if you have a bad one, it makes sense to try elsewhere.
(FYI, the dealer management also fired most of their sales people. But their sale side of things remains a persian bazaar).
I can explain more if you confirm that.
I believe the test they do with fuel tank doesn't involve filling it up with fuel so it works better for them to be as low as reasonable.
When sensing outside air temperature there is always a concern that heat from the engine compartment might make the sensor provide inaccurate readings and so when the vehicle is stationary the temperature display might not be allowed to increase (or it is filtered heavily).
This isn't completely applicable to your situation but thought I would mention it.
What is more applicable is that when the vehicle is parked a timer runs that keeps track of how long the vehicle was shut off before restarting - again due to concern about engine compartment "soak" heat. I believe it waits about 3 hours or so and after that point no matter what the temperature is when you start up vehicle it updates to it.
If you get into vehicle in hours then there is some sliding scale which requires the vehicle to be driven for a certain amount of time before the display will increase from original value when shut off. How long this takes depends on how long vehicle off and how fast you are driving. Once it hits the threshold the display will change pretty steadily. Lower temperatures have no such filtering.
But WAIT! you say.....I was at work all day. The vehicle was sitting for much more than 3 hours!
That is where a remote start comes in. Because of consideration for remote start causing underhood temperatures to climb I believe they threw out the 3 hour time limit and your vehicle always start off displaying the temperature it was shut off at. Under some circumstances you wouldn't notice but certain times of the year, like now, it starts to become more evident. So this operation is by design
As I like to say, now you likely know as much about this as dealer - they have had communications describing most of the information above.
Wrt remote starts, or even regular starts, sometimes I get temperature readings before starting (key is on on position but car not cranked yet), sometimes not.
One thing I did not take into consideration was the length of times between starting.
I'll keep a closer eye on the appearing/not appearing readings and see if this behavour falls into the timer ranges e2helper has pointed out.
I talked to a friend of mine who happens to be a GM engineer. He says the sensor is poorly made and is often replaced. Or there could be some leaves, dirt, mud on the sensor that needs cleaning. Seems plausible that some ice is on the sensor causing a low or static reading... car heats up, ice goes away, reading adjusts.
I don't know. They ought to go back to 3 guages....