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I just got this car last Wed. evening, today it is back to the dealer with this problem. The service writer did not seem to take my description seriously.
What is your experience with only one or both rear window(s) open (front and roof window closed)? As I described in my initial post, the vibration is so violent that the roof vibrates and the air pulses hurt my ears. My wife has the same complaint about her ears also, so I am certain that my ears are not overly sensitive.
Hey other Maxx owners, please share your experience with this discussion too. Thanks in advance.
The last six digits of my Vin are 183919. I went to the website that you suggested and I have no idea how to tell if my car has the latest calibrations or not. My husband called our dealer and the guy that answered the phone had no idea what he was talking about!! GO FIGURE!!! Appreciate any help you can give me and what I should tell the dealer to look for..LOL!!! Thanks again!
After bringing it in a couple of times and replacing the radio they apparently messed something else up because then the radio started powering all the way down and wouldn't come on when I would start the car. I would have to manually push the power button to get the radio or CD player to work.
So we brought it in again and they fixed the powering down problem by reprogramming the body control module (after replacing it another time). But we were still having problems with the CD player not coming back on when that was the last thing used.
So after 6 times in the shop (calling GM techs and Malibu liasons), they finally figured out that the key fobs were keeping a memory(apparently a feature that not many techs were aware of). So if I was listening to the CD player and locked the car, then my husband came out with his key fob and unlocked the car the car wouldn't remember what he was last listening to and just started with the radio playing.
BUT, then the car was also switching randomly when I was the one to lock it with the CD last playing. When I would come out the next time and unlock it with my fob the radio would sometimes be playing. The dealership answered that question by saying that the body control module goes into sleep mode sometimes and then forgets what I had last playing and defaults to the radio anyway! ugh!! Very frustrating!
I don't really understand why you would build a car with that "feature" of having the body control module fall asleep and not be able to keep it's memory of what it was playing (it remembers the stations programmed just not the source of teh music). Does that make any sense?!?!? HAve you experienced this at all? Please tell me I'm not the only one. It has been a frustrating experience to say the least.
Wrt power steering, I have noted some jitter when making right hand turns (this is a new problem - was smooth earlier). Also the steering sometimes pulses when the car is at dead stop and the wheel is slightly turned to the right.
Gees, I need to find myself a job like that! Fall asleep when I want and remember what I want when I wake back up
It just seems like a weird thing to put in a car.
My service man said they may be able to re-program it when the '05 come out because that feature was changed in the 'o5 models. Have you heard anything about that?
How do I find out if the service manager was feeding be line of crap or not?
It has been just a mess trying to get this figured out. I got the run around so many times and ended up calling the general manager personally regarding all my problems and he finally put me in touch with the head honcho service guy who told me about the "falling asleep" business.
Any suggestions?!?! I thought it sounded like a fishy answer too!
The 2004 Malibu has a personalization feature associated with which key fob is used. This feature works based on which key fob last UNLOCKED the vehicle - it is only based on UNLOCK. The remote keyless receiver "tells" the body computer which key fob was used and the body computer broadcasts this information to the vehicle saying "DRIVER 1" or "DRIVER 2", etc. The radio and XM module use that information to decide which stored presets they will use, what audio source was last used, radio volume, radio On/Off etc. etc.
The feature was briefly mentioned in 2nd printing of the owner manual and is covered several ways for dealer technicians in their online information on the vehicle.
For the 2005 Malibu, this feature was disabled due to the number of customers and service technicians that were confused by it. It is not something a dealer can reenable.
The keyless entry receiver is capable of being programed for up to 4 different key fobs (only 2 ship with vehicle).
The vehicle antitheft system is capable of begin programmed for up to 10 ignition keys (which has nothing to do with this subject - just thought I would let you know).
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If one of those posts indicated a condition where the radio turned on by itself after operating the remote keyless system to unlock vehicle (with ignition OFF) then that is a different situation.
I see you have a Malibu Sedan model which has a build date in early March 2004.
Powertrain calibration was 12589175. From web site you can see that is has been updated twice since then.
I am unsure from your earlier posts if you know if the dealer had ever updated the calibration in your vehicle. There is no way you can tell what calibration is in vehicle, only the dealer can tell you. They can easily read what is in it with their service tool. However I don't want to send you back to dealer for just that
Anyways I feel very bad about your experience so far. There so many nice features about your vehicle, I hope overall you like the vehicle.
Please keep us informed with how things are going when you have an update.
regards
I still am impressed with my Maxx LT, 9500 miles on it, 8 months old and a 02/04 build and going strong....except for those durn rear window shades.....cheers all
I am happy with my Malibu. (ALL EXCEPT THE ROUGH IDLE). I have heard alot of good things about the Malibus...and reading these posts alot of negative things!! But everyone is entitled to thie opinions right. I will definately keep you posted on any updates with my vehicle.
Also, has anyone had any problems with WHEEL VIBRATIONS at HIGHWAY SPEEDS....I read something about that on another website...but I cant find it again. I was just curious. Thanks. KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK WITH THIS FORUM. I LOVE IT.
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I mentioned that my wife is the primary driver of this vehicle and is refusing to drive it in this state. I also pointed out that low speed maneuvers without the power assist take an extreme amount of effort. While this doesn't sound so bad, since you can just turn the car off and back on to "reset" the problem (for how long?), the real safety issue is that if the assist fails during a low speed (30 mph or less) turn, either just before needing to turn, or while making the turn, there is a much higher chance of having an accident. If you weren't able to crank the wheel quickly enough in the first situation, you might find yourself in oncoming traffic or off the other side of the road, and if you weren't able to straighten the wheel quickly enough in the latter, you might still find yourself in a similar situation. And believe me, these cars don't steer easily at low speeds with no assist. (They're much like the previous Malibus in that regard, from personal experience. :P ).
Needless to say, the service manager took it upon himself to cover the rental. I'm hoping to have my car back by Friday evening or early Saturday at the latest (I'm living in western NC right now, and Ivan is predicted to be bringing us a strong possibility of more flooding rains, and I'd really like to have the car in the garage before he comes a'knockin).
And I do agree 100% that the EPS systems on these cars is one of the only real complaint items, and that some bugs should be expected with it. My only issue is with the handling of the situation by Chevrolet / GM. And even that isn't as bad as it could be. (Imagine complete denial of the issue once reported, unless it's actually demonstrated to the mechanics while the car is at the shop..)
Thanks to all Town Hall member replies.
I too consider this an annoyance caused most likely by the shape of the car. Nothing Chevy would or can do anything about now.
When I drive with windows open, I usually open all side windows an equal amount. So this is not an issue for me.
A few days later I did several ABS stops, as someone suggested, just to experience the ABS system.
Also having brake noise issue. Hopefully they will be able to solve both of these problems. Other than these two issues, I love this car.
Does anyone else's car require you to stomp on the brake pedal in order to get the cruise control to disengage? I'm amazed at how much force and pedal travel is required to get the cruise to quit! Other cars I've driven (Fords, Oldsmobiles, Hondas) needed only a gentle tap on the pedal. In my Thunderbirds in particular, just brushing against the brake pedal would do it.
I'm wondering if this is something that can be adjusted easily or if it will require major diagnosis. I can't believe the car is designed this way and it's very disconcerting to push the brake pedal a couple of inches before it starts to slow down. Maybe I'll report it to NHTSA if the dealer can't do anything to correct it...
Forgive me for saying this, but it looks like this is a vehicle characteristic that you are senstive to and the calibration chosen for this vehicle might require a little more aggressive activation than you like. I just say this because I haven't driven your vehicle and in case the dealer performs the procedure I mention and you perceive no difference.
Please post back on what happens. Thank you for the informative post. If you are willing to post last 6 digits of your VIN I would appreciate the information (an unoffical request, of course)
thanks E2 for the input....as always good info!!
agree the steering system seems to be the truely sticking point for this car...will be interesting to follow the NHTSA engineering analysis investigation on this one complaint..and what the outcome is.....anyone betting on a recall yet?
So now I'm looking for answers and have come up with a theory. So those who know more than me please tell me what you think?
On page 2-22 of my user manual the PASS-Key® 111+ system is described. It is a wireless link between the keyfob and vehicle and complies with Part15 of the FCC rules.
However, something very interesting is mentioned and the manual goes on to say that 1, this device may not cause harmful interference, and 2, this device must accept any interference received, INCLUDING interference that may cause undesired operation of the device.
So.... it is just possible that radio interference as from 2way radios, cops etc. is the source of these random events. I also happen to live near a fire station. Seeing as the keyfob can only be transmitting a signal of a few microwatts in strength, the receiver in the car must be very sensitive in order the receive this signal. So, a strong radio signal near the vehicle could easily swamp the receiver and cause a malfunction.
I don't think a BCM replace (it was BCM and not SDM, right?) would correct intermittent Airbag light but you will certainly find out.
The Check Gas cap message doesn't really have much to do with BCM either. I took a quick look back thru the discussion thread and forgot if you had noticed if your fuel gage didn't go to "F" when you fill the tank with fuel. This CAN be related to Check Gas cap message.
Yes the Check Gas Cap definitely caused by same issue as your fuel gage. I might have explained reason why that happens somewhere else do don't want to repeat myself.
The endcap on each side of the dashboard is the location of a "safing" connection for frontal airbag system. Service procedures often instruct technician to disconnect these when doing troubleshooting on airbag system for their protection. I know that these end panels have a very aggressive spring clip attachment.
It is not necessary to remove it if you were going to access the BCM. The BCM is actually located on the front of center console on passenger side. There is a panel that is more easily removed there with a fuse symbol on it (because in this vehicle the BCM is also a fuse/relay center).
You have a situation where when you fill the tank the gage doesn't go to FULL. It reads a little below full even though you know the tank is actually full.
Fuel system diagnostics are designed to run only when fuel tank level is between a certain percentage range (let's say 15%-85%). It doesn't run when tank is almost empty or when it is full. There are reasons they don't try to run these tests when tank is empty or full (the test likely won't pass).
For a short amount of time your vehicle will be in a situation where the fuel in your your tank actually exceeds 85% but the fuel level (because it is reading lower than actual) will indicate less than 85%
One of the tests that runs can result in Check Gas Cap Message if it doesn't pass.
These tests have other criteria before they will run. Many require the vehicle to have been sitting for several hours first. Because of this you might not see this situation on every tankful of gas.
You will always see the fuel gage not going to full but only occassionally getting the Check Gas Cap message. The frequency of this depends on your driving patterns.
Once you get a Check Gas Cap message it might continue to be displayed on each subsequent ignition cycle until next time the test is run and passes (you might have noticed something like that occuring).
But I am not aware this would cause any long term problem. However under CERTAIN circumstances (depending on driving patterns) this might also result in an intermittent Service Engine Soon telltale.
So, if it was my vehicle, I would want to get it fixed at some point.
You are on early edge of dealership familiarity with this vehicle, in general (example your dashboard "endcap"). On this particular complaint you now actually know more about what is causing it that the dealership because they haven't been given enough info to connect these two items yet. That information will likely get to them in a week or so.
Also, the no-start situation which I've had on several occasions and which I've cleared by locking and unlocking the car with the keyfob, is still ongoing but no hassle at this time because I know what to do.
Now a thought comes to mind. Seeing as the remote start which I do not have, is controlled from the keyfob, it would appear as if the remote receiver and body control module play a part in the starting circuit. I think somewhere, somehow, there is a software glitch. Although I do not have remote start, manufacturers tend to use the same chipsets in all of their lines and switch features on and off with software.
I would like your opinion about this.
Sorry to hear this. The BCM could cause an airbag telltale under some circumstances but it is not the typical culprit.
Please keep us informed on what happens. Dealer technicians has a Technical Assistance Center available (a type of call-in help center) if they are having difficulty troubleshooting a vehicle. I can see they haven't used that resource yet in regards to your vehicle
Page 2-22 or page 2-20? I see the text you are talking about on 2-20 in the manuals I have. I can't make sense of the FCC stuff - it is in legalese (LOL)
I can clarify a few things.
Your vehicle likely has 2 types of Theft-Deterrent Systems as noted in Owner's manual. Content Theft-Deterrent and Vehicle Theft Deterrent (aka PASS-Key® III+).
Both of these systems make use of the theft-deterrent alarm telltale in your instrument cluster and so you have to know a little about its operation to understand which function might be controlling it. The owner manual does a pretty good job at explaining it (especially 2nd printing of the manual - see page ii in front to figure out what version you have is there an "A" or "B" after the part number). Both say first edition.
Anyways.....
Key fob is used for remote keyless and it does arm and disarm the Content Theft System but doesn't have anything to do with PASS-Key® III+.
The PASS-Key® III+ system uses a special "transponder" chip embedded in the ignition key itself (reason for the "+" symbol on key) which communicates with a module in the vehicle when the key is inserted in the ignition switch and ignition is turned on. It is wireless communication and very short range.
If you ever note this problem again with this theft deterrent telltale staying on when you are driving check and see if anything else unusual is happening with any functions in the instrument cluster (like the odometer, tachometer, speedometer).
In the no-start condition only locking the doors with the keyfob and then unlocking them again allows me to start the engine. So there must be some connection between whatever and the starting system. I've used both keyfobs and keys with the same results.
The trouble is that the dealer is quite a distance from me and I don't want to take the car in and just have them poke around without GM coming up with a positive fix for the problem. For now the car works and I know what to do in the event of a no-start condition.
It's like the bugs in my video editing program. I know what to do when the computer freezes. Seems like wretched autos are becoming more and more like computers by the day. But, despite everything, I love my Malibu warts and all.
Sorry about this line of questioning but I'm trying to get a handle on this problem. You see, we are not dealing with a simple starter circuit here. Somewhere there is a processor that's not doing its job every time.
7937 this post described more items than your last one. It is going to take a few iterations for me to understand your issue but I check forum often:
I would like to first focus on the door lock stuff.
The Driver Info Center Auto Unlock selection doesn't have anything to do with key fob operation. It allows you to select WHAT and HOW you want doors to Unlock as part of the customization of the Auto Door Lock function.
WHAT choices are: NONE, DRIVER DOOR ONLY, or ALL DOORS
HOW choices are: Shift to Park or Turn Ignition OFF
When you operate the Key Fob UNLOCK button it is designed so that on the first press of the button you UNLOCK only the driver door. If you press the button again within 5 seconds then ALL doors unlock. You cannot modify the ways this operates (your dealer can but I don't know why anyone would want to change the way that it works).
You mentioned a NO START condition. Can you describe a little more about when that is occuring?
You certainly have your thinking cap on 7937!!
You are correct. When the vehicle allows a remote start to occur the PASS-Key III+ system has not yet verified a valid key. Remote Start is a very specific operation mode which has limited vehicle functionality. It will shut off under a variety of conditions. Transitioning the vehicle from a remote start mode into a normal engine running state requires the PASS-Key III+ system to verify a validated ignition key. This is one of the benefits of this OEM Remote Start System. It works seemlessly with the vehicle's Theft Deterrent Systems.
However it sounds like you are experiencing a problem so please post back with details when you get a chance.