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Comments
You are right, it does literally come down to financial in this case. Financial in the sense of having yet another person to pay off (the lawyer) and if the car is bought back having to re-establish yet ANOTHER loan and start on car payments all over again. Sorry, can't say that option sounds SO appealing that I just want to jump right into it. Most of the information I stated in my last post WAS after talking with a Lemon Law lawyer. That's the 'averages' he was giving me. There is no guarentee of having it bought back. No guarentee of having the type of end solution I'd love to see. End solution I'd love to see? New car, back to square one again. No loss of $$ that I originally put down. That's what I'd like. But no Lemon Law was created to totally give back a consumer what they bought even if it was a lemon. It just gives them a 'taste' of some restitution.
It's sad to think that my fustrations with my car are "...interesting to read..." from your perspective. Maybe you'd find yourself thinking differently if you were in my shoes w/ the experiences I've had w/ this car.
So all you Maxx owners out there please let me know what the vibration at hwy speeds in your Maxx's is like.
The car has no other problems. I am not sure if this would satisfy a lemon law claim in Massachusetts. I am so tired of tingling feet after a long commute. This will probably be the first and last GM vehicle I ever buy. Sorry for the long post but I just had to vent. Thanks and I look forward to any and all responses.
I do not find your frustrations with the car "interesting". Sorry I don't find pleasure in other people's pain. It is your reaction on this issue that I find interesting. You are obviously not happy with the issues with the car (see your original post, you used the words "livid" and "steamed"). I ask why not file Lemon Law and you respond with nothing but talk about what a great price you got on teh car, how you saved your money to buy this car, starting a new loan, cost me money to file... blah, blah blah. Hardly the answer I expected.
Yes I would be thinking differently than you if I were having these problems. I would either want out of the car as fast as I could or I would be on the phone with the dealership and regional manager working to get my car fixed. You have a defect in your car that the dealership has not been able to fix after 4 visits (or was it 7 visits). GM owes it to you to fix the problem in your car. This is why you have the 3yr/36k miles bumper to bumper warranty.
If you don't want to file Lemon Law, try another dealership to fix the problem. If they can't fix it, then talk to the Regional Manager. Maybe you can get the resolution you are looking for this way. And please keep all your receipts and documentation.
Another option is re-post your problem. This time include the details of when it happens, sounds you hear, and include what the dealer has done to try to fix it. There are a couple of very knowledgeable people on this board that may be able to help you.
Good luck.
experience is "normal" for the Maxx.
But ever since that day last week, I have had no problems, no warning messages, NOTHING..
I took it to the dealers repair dept and they said the same thing, I need a new steering column ($615 installed), but did not mention anything about the motor itself. I am worried that since the "Power Steering" warning message hasnt come on for them, that they are only fixing part of the problem and that one day, again I'll have no power steering.. I am really frustrated by this, sin :sick: :sick: :sick: :sick: ce I love my car..
Either cowl is defective/deformed, or the windshield curve in that area is out of spec. One or the other should be replaced.
I also have a broken right shade on rear fixed sky window. The retractor is messed up. I also have a bad rattle in back of car. Can't determine if it's coming from headliner, hatch opening or under car, like brake line hitting floor pan. Other that these 2 things I have not found any other problems.
it, I do not trust my local chevy dealer very
much since they overfilled my crankcase by one
full quart during a LOF. The less they work on
it the better...
Thanks for any help!
It's like with the old carburetor cars with choke plates. When they flooded, you pushed and held the pedal to the floor and that held the choke open to avoid adding gas by choking the air intake.
If that solves the problem, it means you have leaking fuel getting into the intake. Maybe leaking fuel injectors while sitting?
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
12/12/2005
On a seperate note, if I keep the car still and turn the steering wheel left and right. I can hear a not so lound clunk like gear backlash. Anybody has this same issue? At parking lot menuver, when the steering wheel is turned left all the way, you can hear some dull tapping noise. Is this the sign of troubles to come? What is the TSB about the steering column?
Thanks!
D3 from Tirerack and had them mounted on my rims by a nearby shop. I got
vibrations at the 70-75mph range. I thought it just might wear in but several
hundred miles later, it was still there and since I was acutey aware of the
vibration, it seemed to get worse (prob subjective). So I looked up an installer
using the same Hunter GSP 9700 equipment that Tire Rack uses and had him remount my
tires using the Hunter GSP9700. Its a system designed to match mount tires.
http://www.gsp9700.com/
As the owner of the place operated the mounting machine, he told me what he was
doing and why. Pretty interesting. This occurred 2 years ago and I'm writing this from memory, so its general what occurs.... The rim is checked for round, then the tire is mounted and a roller exerts pressure on the tire to measure resistance. It finds "high" and "low" spots. The operator then attempts to match up the irregularities in the rim with offsetting irregularities in the rubber. My guy had to swap around tires on the rims to get an optimal fit. Wheel weights were added to balance out the fitment. 95% of the vibration was eliminated.
I did the same to my other car and during the road force measurements, he found 2 of my brand new Goodyears were out of spec. Tire Rack replaced them without a fuss and 2 days later, I went back to finish the tire mounting job.
So it could be your tires that are causing the vibrations. Even brand new tires can be out of round enough to vibrate at higher speeds but appear to be ok with conventional balancing.
S Chang
Brunswick, OH
Afternoon/morning shift is somewhat a arbitrary thing because from start to finish a vehicle might have operators from both shifts working on it. Don't ask me how long it takes from body shop until vehicles rolls off the line - I don't know :confuse:
Date when completed was 10/08/2004
This past weekend, I began to notice a "clunking" noise when I turn left. The sound doesn't happen with right turns, just left. I have read some threads about some steering column problems associated with the Maxx. Could some please advise, if this is what I'm experiencing and is there a service bulletin, about it?? - Many thanks, for any info.
I hope somebody can explain what is going on and what can be done to fix it. This is actually a safety issue, don't you think?
What would happen, while I am braking, if the BCM decides to turn off the brake lights while I am __still__ braking?
Do you know what frequency the key fob operates on e2?
What to do: Live with it...or keep bugging them? I have 9000 miles and 11 months left under warranty.
I know you have posted on this before and my memory isn't that good to remember all the things I already suggested be looked at.
I would love to troubleshoot it myself
But yes, computer systems, if not properly shielded, can be vunerable to RF noise or strong radio signals.
What's worrysome is how long the systems can remain disabled and that currently there is no way for the user to know what has happened (there was no DIC warning or anything for the light failute).
Any suggestions?
It would be interesting to disable the remote receiver for the key fob to see what the effect would be. Problem is a person would have to wait a long time to come to a conclusion due to the randomness of the problem.
The antenna provides a direct path into the heart of the computer system for radio frequencies. I don't know how selective the receiver is. But strong rf signals of any frequency nearby will surely swamp the receiver anyway. So shielding might not work here. A better link from keyfob to receiver would have been an infrared link. But that defeats the purpose of remote start where a line of sight would be needed for starting. In the winter you would want to start your car from indoors.