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Comments
I feel two things have gone worse with the new steering gear:
1. There is virtually no feedback from the steering wheel if I hold the car at an angle steadily.
2. The OEM tires appear to make much more squeezing noise now.
Also, with the old steering gear, the ABS activates prematurely if I hit the brake pedal while the car is going over a bump. This problem has been alleviated with the new gear.
Any comments?
I wish you would, too!
Just to review...after a number of attempts with "unable to duplicate problem -- performs as designed", they finally replaced the BCM. The cruise now engages reliably and, for the most part, will disengage with the brake pedal without too much drama. Every now and then it will still resist the brake, and I'll feel this surge of power before the disengage occurs.
The tap-declerate function works reliably but it's the resume and tap-accelerate part that is unpredictable. I'm wondering if there is something intermittent in the upper half of the "+/-" switch. If the problem isn't in the BCM, what else could it be?
The other complaint I would first suspect the switch although I have never heard of this complaint. The cruise switches form a "resistive ladder" with the BCM so there is only a single wire going to BCM from the switch. Depending on which cruise switch is pushed the switch presents a different total resistance to the BCM. This varies the voltage read by BCM. The dealer tech also has capability of reading this voltage with service tool as well as the BCM's interpretation of voltage.
Not much help I know but somewhat of an explanation of those 2 sensor inputs to BCM.
I've noticed a small access panel by the door-pull and was wondering if that has anything to do with panel removal.
A window regulator's bolts came loose and I had it repaired under warranty, but the next time I may have to attempt a fix myself.
However, my friend noticed on his drive home last night that the needles on the gauges in the instrument cluster were not lit up. I didn't remove the cluster or mess with any of that wiring. I did vary the dimming levels and likely changed the position of the headlight switch while I was searching for some sort of switched Ignition signal line to use for the carkit (I would up tapping a brown wire off of the HVAC control panel that responded as an ignition line source). All the other wiring work was done with a Y-cable plug-n-play harness and relay at the back of the radio. None of those wires were spliced, etc.
Anyone seen this behavior before? Is this user error (i.e. headlight switch or something else in the wrong position) or is it a sign of some other trouble? Thanks.
If this is only a concern with cluster needles lighting up (and other stuff backlit in vehicle still work) then I would focus more on the power feeds to cluster. I forget if it was the battery feed or ignition feed to cluster that can cause this condition though
If you just turn on the ignition without starting the vehicle does the Check Engine Light illuminate? That I think relies on the ignition feed to cluster being present. That feed comes directly off ignition switch and fuse for ignition switch is in a fuse panel at front passenger floor and fuse called IGN SENSOR
The battery feed to cluster is done with by the CLUSTER/THEFT fuse in same fuse panel.
In both cases I would expect if these fuses were blow he would see other problems but maybe they just haven't showed up yet
You can get all kinds of weird problems if the device you added is trying to communicate on vehicle's serial data but that is likely not case with what you are describing.
Correct, this handsfree system does not mess with the vehicle bus at all. Would you have access to what signals are on the HVAC connector? I would like to know what the actual signal name is for the brown wire that I tapped as Ignition. Thanks, again.
I certainly do know about wires to HVAC - It does vary a little depending on what HVAC system is in vehicle (base or Auto) but if you found a switched 12 volts on a brown wire you likely found an ignition RUN feed fed off a relay in the same fuse center (which is also the BCM). It would only have power when ignition in RUN (and not ACCY).
If anyone knows anyone in Tallahassee FL who could help me out of the kindness of their hear or wait until i can financial compensate them it would be appreciate. i am not here alone my little sister is here as well.
Bought an 05 Malibu LS couple of weeks ago. Noticed the build date was 10/04. Took it into my local Chevy dealer cause the drivers rear window had to have the motor replaced. While there I mentioned to the service writer that a was hearing a thump when turning the wheel. He said it was pretty common and had three cars in for it now. He said a special lube kit would take care of it. About an hour later I walk into the service area and my front wheels are off the car. He told me they thought the steering was too loose so they were changing out the steering gear. The part number was 15858368. Left the dealer and it was nice and tight with no thumps. How long will it last? Only time will tell! But from the things I've been reading, I'm not gonna get my hopes up.
deckdog
There are a couple of things you can check. check the air filter. If it is dirty, change it. Also clean out any dirt that may be in the box. check the mass air flow sensor. It sits jsut downstream of the air filter. It could be dirty and not measuring the air properly. You'll need carbuerator cleaner (in a spray can)to clean it. Get a bottle of fuel injector cleaner (many have suggested the Chevron brand) and put that into your fuel tank.
How many miles do you have on the vehicle? What "overhaul" did you have done?
Good luck
jt
For example, if you are listenning to an AM station and driving near an FM/TV tower which has numerous frequencies. There is good chance that your AM audio will be affected. Car receiver has selectivity that knocks out these intereferers. But there is a limit to the design (and how cheap is the design of the receiver)
In the same token, if you park your car under an AM/FM /Microwave tower, you may not be able to use your keyless entry fob , or sometime your cellphone since
these devices may be overloaded with these strong RF energy. It is not any different than hearing distortion on car radio when a Two-way radio is activated. I have seen a owner of a Nissan vehicle not able to use the keyfob to unlock his car when he visited Mt. Wilson in LA (where they have a farm of AM/FM/TV transmitters serving LA area). He could not even use the key to unlock the car since everytime he did that, the car kept on locking it back.
Sometimes the RF interference may screw up the receiver'computer and block it up. In that situation, you will need to restart the unit by cycling its power (fuse disconnection and reconnection). In some bad cases, the strong RF energy may fry its electronics
jt
You might as well drill a hole in your computer cabinet and run a wire from the mother board to outside and hope no rf interference will get in and screw up your computer.
I can see why a radio link to the key fob was used because of the remote start feature. One would want to start the car from indoors. Using an infrared link such as used in a tv remote control only gives you line of sight control. A radio link however, is not restricted by line of sight and will transmit through normal building walls. An infrared receiver is not readily susceptible to rf interference.
While I found nothing that seemed able to tighten that lever (suggestions ??) , I did notice on the right hand console fuse panel, there was a round shiny hole to the middle right of the large fuse (power steering, I think). Looking through this hole I could see threads behind it.
Is there supposed to be a screw or bolt in this hole?
If that screw or bolt is missing, would it cause any grounding problems with that particular fuse panel or vehicle electronics (I saw two black wires grounded to the frame just to the right of the fuse panel).
Other than the steering, the only other real problem I've had with the Maxx is the front brakes (of course). Three sets of rotors in 38k miles. I have a Honda civic with 80k that is still on its original set so it's not the way I drive or the way I torque the lugs, which I do to spec by the way. Has anyone had any experience with slotted rotors for this car?
The hole you see is for a bolt but you are looking at the backside of it. If you were to look on the other side of the fuse panel you would see that there is a large connector that is secured there with an integral bolt - you just can't see it.
I would look at your oil pressure sensor. This has a set of contacts that open in the event of low oil pressure and cuts the engine off as a safety measure to prevent damage.
You should hear the pump run for about 3 seconds and then cut off before the engine is started. This is normal.
I would check the voltage out at the relay by probing the wire when it should be hot. Then a guess is you're looking for a break in the wiring going to the back to the fuel pump.
Before R&R the pump you should have checked for voltage at the back powering up the pump. No voltage = problem forward inthe schematic of things.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
If your oil pressure switch seems the same, shorting out terminals C and D with ignition on should get the fuel pump running. This test will prove if the pump and wiring is ok and point to the pressure switch being defective.
That's what he just said could be a problem. How do you know your oil pressure switch is faulty?
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Thanks, alfalfa 328
dealer 1: kept car for a day (I had to pay for transportation rental), claimed they could find nothing wrong. Return visit had dealer service rep claiming they would do the bulletin provided the parts had not been previously replaced. 2nd return visit with proof of earlier repairs showing part numbers were different brought denial from the writer who then said the service manager had to clear it and he was only there on weekdays.
When I asked the dealer to do the repair and I would pay for it, they said no dice, as their belief was I could then claim warranty against them after repair was done (huhhhh? If I __ask__ a dealer to do something and __authorize__ them to do it while paying them to do it, I see no way I could claim anything other than parts warranty for work they did).
dealer 2 also could find nothing wrong, but said they would do work if asked and paid. Bill was estimated for $400. I said I would wait and see how this repair actually held up.
dealer 3 is in progress now via a more helpful writer; will hopefully have results to tell by end of week.
I have the same problem again. No heat. I notice that the heater core on this model always has hot water flowing through it. Heat seems to be controlled by the heater door only. There are no water valves.
The problem seems to be that the heater door remains in the closed position cutting off hot air to the cabin. When I remove fuses HVAC CTRL (BATT) and HVC CTRL(IGN) and then replace after 10sec and then switch on ignition, I can hear the door and feel the motor running (flapped down glove box and put hand on motor). The door runs to what I assume is the open position for hot air but then returns to the closed position. Does not matter where the temperature control knob is set.
In running to the open position for heat, the motor runs slower and slower before returning back to the closed position. When returning to the closed position there is a positive stop as if a limit switch has cut in. Thereafter there is no more action from the door unless I pull the fuses again. Turning the heat control knob has no effect.
My feeling is that the limit switch (if there is one) is not working in the open door position and is confusing the BCM. It's such a schlepp to take the car to the dealer. Do you perhaps know what I could do? Could you tell me if there are limit switches and, could I possibly get access to them without tearing everything to pieces? Sorry for the long post.