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Comments
There isn't any limit switch.
By pulling the HVAC CTRL (BATT) fuse you force the system to lose its memory of motor position so when you reinstall fuse the system goes thru a relearn cycle.
There are 3 motors in system. There are 2 on right side of vehicle around glovebox for recirc door and mode control. The temperature door actuator is on left side by the pedals.
I don't have suggestions at this point. Sounds like dealer is going to have to look at it and I would suspect they end up replacing the temp door actutor or HVAC control head.
http://www.delphi.com/manufacturers/other/micro/cmos/qpcd/
You are correct. Delphi makes all the components for system
You might try more frequent oil changes and a cleaning additive into the oil that allegedly cleans "sticky lifters".
Classics Forum
MrShiftright
Host
I have a new problem - 2005 malibu max - yesterday check enging light comes on - car starts blowing smoke and smelling like gas. tow truck is called. service giving me the run around - says I have a blown engine due to my oil change one month ago from my competent mechanic. This is a lot of bull to me. Car is still under warranty "bumper to bumper" They say my engine might have seized because my mechanic never put oil in during the oil change. I traveled 1000 miles after that oil change never had a problem. no lights ever warned about low oil. car was fine until check engine light came on. only 11,000 miles on the car.
I cannot see that the new Malibu has not got the same setup. I think something else has gone wrong with your Maxx.
Thanks again for your input.
The dealer should check if there is a constant voltage with ignition on at the injector terminals before installing a new injector. With ignition on and engine not running there should be 0volts. If there is voltage then the problem is in the computer. Injectors are pretty reliable these days. You would not want to flood your engine with fuel again so tell the dealer to take care.
Flooding engine. Oh I have seen that - hydrolock.
Even though it is working again I will be taking it in to have the actuator replaced. I just hope the diagnosis is correct and it is the motor. I hate these problems that come and go. There will still be a question mark about it when I get the car back with the new motor. The dealer has been very good so far and I was happy with the steering column replacement and setup. I didn't even buy the car from him.
Majorguard classifies repairs into green, yellow, and red-flagged groups. Any repair in the red flagged group will __not__ be repaired by the participating dealer until they have been visited by a "majorguard adjuster".
This majorguard adjuster is __not__ immediately available. The dealer has to wait 24 to 48 hours before they show up at all, and the adjusters do __not__ tell the dealer when they will actually be there. You also have to leave your car at the dealer for the adjuster to review.
What I am trying to say is if your MAJORGUARD covered car breaks down and the warrented repair is on the long "red list", you could be stranded for __several days__.
Buyer Beware !!!
Rubber grommet idea sounds good. Although I don't have jiggling light issue, may add those as well later this year.
Checked the grommets again and found that I needed to go oversize from the dimensions as first posted. Bought #881256 (13/16OD 1/2ID) for the main two and #881254 for the single side pin. And pulled up on the tabs again-is someone resting their bodies on the headlights.
I think I better just keep driving and reading here until I have something that really needs to be shared. Thanks.
..without telling me.
I got a call at 4:30 telling me the car was now driveable and I had better think of getting a rental. They of course did not offer one. Fortunately my boss was considerate in my having to leave on short notice to snag a rental car before the places I could get to closed. I got the rental..a Dodge Neon. It's transportation..and dat's all.
If this is Chevy's idea of superior service, they are doing an excellent job... of selling me a Toyota.
The writer told me that in URBAN areas, the adjusters are much more picky as there are many more cars to deal with. And the justifications are wierd...an entire engine overhaul can be greenlit without an adjuster, while a valve job may require an adjuster.
Apparently in RURAL areas, GM is more generous. People have had hotel bills paid if they break down far from home.
For rental car reimbursement I send the paperwork to GM MAJORGUARD and as repair was overnight, should get reimbursed. We'll see.... :confuse:
I expect some rattles to return in 1 - 3 K miles, but hopefully this car will otherwise behave itself until trade-in time next year.
My engine developed a sputtering problem, and has poor acceleration and cuts out. It feels like it's ignition related the way it cuts in and out. Sometimes it stalls and sometimes it clears up. Today it was fine then the idle began racing, shut it off then re started then ran like garbage. When I got home I removed my batt cables and cleaned. Seems OK but still sputters. Just last weekend it died while parking and I got an ERROR on my radio display, shut it off and came out 15 minutes later and was fine.
Seems to be getting more frequent and worse.
I'm no stranger to cars and car repair but what the heck, I'm not too proud to ask for help.
REPAIR HISTORY: Original owner, replaced fuel pump and sender and filter, intake gasket job, turn signal/hazard switch, 100,000 mile full tune-up.
Occasionally the engine light comes on.
I know somebody out there has had this same problem, GM made millions of the cars.
Please help !!!
I just wanted to check here for any ideas.
Hopefully this steering fix will be the last.
Despite its problems, the Maxx is one of the better cars I have owned, and given I like hatches, there isn't all that much else available outside of the German offerings whose bad reliability scares me away.
Only other worry is what happens when Maxx is discontinued next year (unless Chevy decides to keep older E1 Maxx chassis in production while sedan moves to E2 design). How long are auto makers required to make spare parts for these cars?
Without any worning I parked my car at the supermarket and when I came out it wouldn't start. I actualy killed the battery trying to start it because it sounded like it was going to start but just wouldn't come to life.
I had it towed to the Chev dealership thinking it was serious but all it was, was a clogged in-line fuel filter.
Ussualy a clogged fuel filter will give you some signs like falling on it's face under heavy accelleration or die out going up a hill. But nope, no warning at all.
Maybe yours is clogged.
I'll never buy GM junk again.
My malibu ran out of gas 3 times! when the gauge said it had gas.
I had to drop the tank and put in a new pump and sender.
Cost me $ 300.00 to do it myself.
I've had more major probs with this car than any other car I've ever owned.
YOU MADE THE RIGHT CHOICE BY TRADING IT IN.
I'm close to sending this car over a cliff.
I'm no fan of malibu's.
Had lots of bad experiences with this car.
Fuel lines clog from poor gas, either substance itself or station cleanliness. Sounds like the clogged filter is fault of station choice. You shouldn't blame the car. It sounds like you've had gas problems before since you say usually a clogged filter gives signs.
I've driven hundreds of thousands of miles and never had a clogged filter problem in GM cars. Currently at 140K on LeSabre.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
anyone else know??
Is it because the idle rev is too low? Mine is just above 500 rpm at idle without A/C fan running.
Then again, if the car __wasn't__ slipping on the same slope earlier on, with same engine RPM, there might be a problem.
Chevrolet Malibu
I have a 2001 Chevy Malibu with 79,000 miles on it. Lately I've been getting headaches when I drive the car, I think it might be carbon monoxide because there is no odor. I had the gasket in the EGR valve replaced to no avail. Two mechanics looked at it and can't find the problem and there is no check engine light on. The car also has a problem with the gas tank, it stops about fifty times before it fills. Could this be related?
I have a 2014 Malibu LT. The top of the passenger front door rubs on the top of the rear door when opening the front door (mostly the rubber sealings are rubbing). Its gotten to the point where it is difficult to open the front door from inside. Has anybody else that has owned a 2013-2015 Malibu been experiencing this??? Any solutions??