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Comments
I was there (LOL). I enjoyed it as well although too darn hot outside for me.
You might have met me although I bet you were probably talking a lot to the Powertrain guys. We had our lead calibration engineer there and he is quite an interesting character .
Why do you want to do it?
Here is it: Do at your own risk -
It does require a bit of disassembly. I wanted to give you an idea of what is involved before you really dig into it. There are lots of those snap-in clips things which are amazingly aggressive in retention and sometimes you might think you are going to break something before it releases.
I have watched numerous radios removed on 2004 Malibu. I have never see the radio disassembled so can't help with that.
The IP is layered and so requires removal of a little more than you would expect. It isn't that hard, just takes a little longer. You will likely be sweating by the time you are done.
I would recommend you have a battery powered drill with 7 mm driver to speed things up. You might need a universal joint or flexible shaft on drill to reach a couple of the screws.
You will need to first remove both lower hush panels which are just snapped in on driver side and passenger side. The driver side might have a clip going into it from the hood release cable. The passenger side may be attached to a wiring harness and will need to be guided back into HVAC duct when reinstalling which is a bit tricky.
I think you might have to remove some small trim panels on each side. One on driver side contains dimmer switch, adjust pedal switch, etc. The one on right side is just a trim panel.
Also remove the trim panel below ignition switch with the little key rest pad on it. There is a screw beneath it that needs removal.
Then pop off the end covers of IP (just snapped in) and remove the screws holding the driver "knee bolster" and glovebox. You will need to remove all of the remaining screws on these 2 things and then unsnap them from the IP. You will likely have to fold down the glovebox to access all the screws - just squeeze box together in back to allow it to flop down.
Then you can pull off the "center stack" trim plate. This is just snapped in. Start at the bottom clips first and work you way up.
Be careful not to yank off the top. The hazard switch wiring connector needs to be removed or just have someone hold this trim plate up while you get at the radio (or you may be able to hold it up using the rear view mirror).
Then take off screws for HVAC control head to drop it down out of the way and FINALLY you can remove screws from radio and pull it out (it will have an antenna connection and 1 or 2 connectors going to it).
Congratulations, you have now disassembled about half of the IP of the vehicle.
Remember when putting radio back in to line up the plastic bullet into IP which helps secure the radio.
I can probably give you more details if required on any particular part but I know once you start you are going to have to finish the job.
Good luck and repost on your experience.
I also had a nice chat with the interior design engineer (he and 4 other people were inside my maxx that day fixing various trim).
The whole experience was the most pleasurable I have ever had with a car, given my background __is__ engineering (electrical, audio and digital, including a stint at GM/Delco). I really wish manufacturers would do more of these.
So, since there aren't any more clinics to go to, I'll ask my local dealer to verify the PCM is properly calibrated. Fingers x'ed they can help.
Predictably, the response regarding the former was "Function test cruise. Operating as designed". Argh! IMHO, if this is the way the thing is designed, then it needs to be redesigned! As I said before, you have to push the brake pedal down half an inch or more and HOLD it to release the cruise. I guess I'll report it to NHTSA. It's a definite safety issue and I'm uncomfortable using the cruise in this car.
The "check engine" light repair went better. Here's what's written on my copy of the RO:
"Code P0442 evap leak detected. Install purge cart found leaking lines at rear main connection. Repair fitting at main rear line connection. Clear code. Retest OK. WG/2W L0160." And the light remains off. Success.
*Unfortunately*, there are two new problems discovered on the drive home. First, the temp gauge is absolutely dead; the needle remains pegged at the bottom of the scale even after a 10 mile drive.
And while stopped at a red light with the radio on, I could hear this incredible racket coming from somewhere under the hood. When I reached my driveway I turned everything off (stereo & AC), and listened with the windows down and it appears that the engine cooling fan now runs full blast, full time. The outside temps were only in the low 70s and I tried driving with the AC off, yet still the fan runs like crazy.
Since my dealer has banker's hours (not open Saturday), I'll have to call and gripe first thing Monday, but in the meantime...any ideas on what's screwed up now? Thanks.
I don't know much about these FM Modulators but does it have to be installed right at the radio? There are a few more coax connections in the vehicle (although maybe the one at radio is the only one that is a match to the modultor you have.)
The headrests travel up on the steel posts that are stationary.
Does anyone know how to remove these headrestes?
I am stumped!
Now I hear about temp. gauges that do not work but come right later and, fans that run all the time. I am convinced that all these problems are related and are caused by the body control module. I'm sure there is a bug in it.
Are you listening GM?
I put my Maxx up on ramps at end of my driveway and crawled under the car to get the numbers. The 1 digit year and 3 digit julian date are embossed into the top right edge of the tag, like the numbers on a credit card.
My Maxx has build date of 02/04 on the driver door. The julian date on transaxle is 4043, which is 2/12/04. Trans is built in Canada. Car is built in Kansas. So my car must have been build in last half of Feb. If my trans has the howling, I really don't notice it. I would have to drive another Maxx whose tranny date is out of range to compare.
I too would not do anything about this. This is a major repair, requiring removal of trans and many parts within to get at the chain and sprockets. It is not worth risking future problems, even though I have a 6yr/100k x-warranty.
It is a fact now that it is very difficult to upgrade entertainment systems on cars because of the intertwining of computer systems. The aftermarket entertainment system industry has lodged a complaint with motor manufacturers for this very reason. They are now working on a common standard whereby any aftermarket entertainment system can be installed by simply plugging it into an IEEE type of plug. But then of course, that new system must also have a DIC display compatible with all cars. So now we have a new standards war. There are cases where the upgrading of an entertainment system has forced the installer to extend the existing system wiring into the trunk and connect the original system there in order to keep the car running!
Only then can an upmarket system be installed in the car. So, you see, things are not as simple as what they used to be. I am still convinced that there is a bug in whatever/whichever, (take your pick) computer system on the new Malibu.
I'm getting the impression that a lot of things related to the PCM require a number of start/stop cycles in order for the PCM to reset itself.
As for your build date, I found mine (aside from e2helper telling me the date) after I took off my front left tire. It is on a white sticker which will face you: 2004jjjj j=julian date
There is only 1 brake "switch" on the new Malibu. It isn't really a switch anymore it is a sensor similar to type used on engine to detect the throttle position (it is called the "Brake Apply Sensor"). The body computer reads this sensor and tells the rest of vehicle via a couple methods the status.
There is a "zeroing" procedure done at assembly plant which can be redone by dealership using their scan tool. I don't know all the conditions that might require such a "relearn" to typically be done.
The calibration on "dumping" cruise control, turning on brake lights, turning on center high-mounted stop lamp, turning off the brake-transmission shift interlock and unlocking the transmission torque converter clutch all pretty much happen at the same point so you will notice that brake lights and cruise "dump" do occur at the same time.
There is a method that dealer has available also using his scan tool to check the current rest position of your brake pedal vs. the learned "home" position of this sensor.
If the value happens to be negative that means that currently the brake pedal has to travel a little bit to get to the zero point which would increase amount of travel before stuff happened.
I think it would be good to check that value before relearning so that you would actually know if something was going to change or not.
The amount of movement I am talking about is VERY VERY slight but may be enough for you to be noticing.
I will see if some more specific information can be made available for dealers to help them know how to do this
If you want to provide the last 6 of your VIN number it would be of interest. I don't think I have seen yours before
It's no good going to the dealer if the problem has gone. GM must be made aware of the problem and a fix found for it and the dealers told what to do.
I have to disagree with you on the wrench..I used it to remove the two rear wheels when I installed my mud guards...it took some getting use to..but after some refined technique...I found it easy to use...and jacking the car was not problem at all..what didnt you like?
Just now I went out to the garage and tried moving the brake pedal -- and you're right, nothing happens with the brake lights or center stop lamp until the pedal has been pushed down the same distance required to dump the cruise. And it's pretty far! That means that drivers behind me aren't seeing my brake lights until I've really hit the brakes pretty hard.
FWIW, my last six digits are 248816 (build date 6/04). Thanks in advance for any additional info.
By the way your build date is specifically 06/09/04 which means you have one of the newest Malibu of posters on this site. I looked up the original brake sensor zeroed value on your vehcle but I don't know how to interpret the units it is in.
I had to ask someone else for assistance. Will be back in touch when he converts into something I understand
Thanks
In any case there is an updated PCM calibration for your vehicle.
There were a few more of you Malibu owners out there with similar complaint (not with the deer but the engine idle or transmission 3-4 shifting which this calibration was supposed to help on)
Keep us posted maxx4me.
Sorry to say that you cannot program the doors to lock automatically when the security system is set to arm passively.
The vehicle comes from factory in the "RKE" mode which requires you to lock the doors in order to arm the content security system.
You have the ability to change the setting to arm passively (via Driver Information Center) which only means you don't have to take any action for the system to arm itself. However some people might find that setting annoying which is why default is the other way.
No problem with name ssmaxx. Next model year there will actually BE a Malibu Maxx SS (though nothing to compare with your previous ride in the HP area)
All but one of these settings is modified by owner using the Driver Information Center buttons on radio.
1. If the vehicle is typically just driven by the driver (with no passenger) you might want to change to setting for Automatic Door Unlock from ALL to Driver Only. This would be a pain if you have passengers or want to get into the liftgate area much though since those "doors" wouldn't be unlocked to easily open them.
2. You can turn off the last door lock feature so that the doors automatically lock as soon as you activate the lock button, even if you have a door open.
3. From a content theft system standpoint you can change vehicle to Passive Mode instead of RKE. However this means every time you turn the car off the content theft system will arm itself, even if you didn't lock the doors.
4. Dealer (but not customer) has the capability of turning off the the antilockout feature. This would allow you to more easily lock doors when the keys are left in the ignition.
===========
All of these things are basically disabling features that were added to the vehicle to make it more user-friendly but I understand you have a lot of added content in the vehicle you are trying to protect by keeping doors locked as much as possible.
Content theft system is triggered when any door or Maxx liftgate is opened without first disarming and will cause vehicle horn to honk and exterior lights to flash for 30 seconds.
You arm the content theft system in vehicle by either: pressing the remote keyless fob LOCK button, press the power door lock switch or turn the driver door key lock cylinder. The system doesn't arm immediately it typically waits 30 seconds unless you press the LOCK button a second time.
You can tell the status of the content theft system by looking at the LOCK telltalte in cluster to see if it is on solid or flashing.
If you don't lock your vehicle doors then the content theft system is not armed - unless you have DIC changed to Passive Arming
Did that help (maybe you already knew all this)?
e2helper, could you please drop me an email when you get the chance? My address is in my profile.
Thanks!
Peter-
If you drive interstates a lot, you know that turning your lights off and then on can signal to a truck that the lane is clear for a changeover. On earlier versions of DRLs the beams could not be turned off, which left only left you with the option to flash high beams - which is not as appreciated. Now, you can use the override feature - click down once to turn them off, and again to turn them back on.
Altogether, the the auto lights feature has been a surprisingly pleasant convenience on the car, IMHO.
You can turn DRL function off by a momentary rotation of the headlamp ON/OFF switch just like you can do with the automatic light control at night - just remember when you do this in case and it starts to get dark out the automatic light control will not turn on either. Just do another momentary turn to turn them back on. Watch the Driver Information Center which tells you what mode you just switched it to.
This only works for U.S. spec vehicles. In Canada that Headlamp On/Off switch only works when vehicle is in Park - because DRLs ARE a requirement in Canada.
For Mexican owners (don't know if any on this board) DRLs are shut off from the factory. This export mode is not something you can change your vehicle to. In fact I came across a Mexican owner of a Malibu in another forum that WANTED DRLs activated on his vehicle (LOL).
Thanks,
Peter-
The light sensor on top of instrument panel tells the body control module when to switch between
modes.
From inside the car, the only way to tell which mode is activated is by observing the instrument panel. In nighttime mode, the instrument panel lights turn on, the pointers on the gages, speedometer and tachometer turn red and the DIC (driver information center or radio display) slightly dims. The brightness of IP lights and DIC can be changed by turning the knob to left of steering wheel. And you can switch between high and low beams using the left stalk. You will see the high beam light on the IP display.
During day, if you want to quickly check mode, turn on the high beams by pushing left stalk away from you. If high beam indicator on IP does not go on, it is in daytime mode. If you want to flash your headlights in this mode, you first have to manually turn on the headlights by rotating the left stalk up 2 clicks.
You will find that car goes into nighttime mode during dawn and twilight hours. The sun has to be pretty high up before daytime mode begins. The system also goes into nighttime mode 30 seconds after the wipers are started. It may also change to nighttime mode if you drive on streets that are completely shaded by trees.
One thing that annoys some people is that the instrument panel lights do not go on when you manually turn on the parking lights or headlights.
Best of luck with your car. You will find that most owners posting to this forum are extremely pleased with their Malibu.