Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
No big heavy things in storage area of your Maxx are there?
http://www.geocities.com/raj380/malibu_nolf/misc/Headlampaim.pdf
To elaborate:
Your vehicle has 2 different theft deterrent systems on it:
1. A "vehicle" theft deterrent system called Pass-Key III Plus which has to do with your ignition key. It is latest version of GM's system which is supposed to prevent engine starting and fuel injectors from working unless correct ignition key is used. This is a passive system to prevent vehicle from being stolen.
2. A "content" theft deterrent system which by factory settings only is armed when you lock doors of vehicle using your door lock switch on door, remote keyless fob or lock doors with the ignition key in your driver key cylinder. If any door or the trunk is opened without using the key fob or ignition key in the driver door or trunk lock cylinder then you will get the horn honking and turn signals flashing. This is to try to discourage someone from stealing something (content) from your vehicle.
This second system can be set up in a passive arming mode via DIC but then any time you turn your vehicle off and leave it without locking the doors the system will still arm itself (passively) and then the horn honk/light flashing will occur if you simply go over to your vehicle and open a door (since it was never locked). This is why passive mode is NOT the default from factory.
Of course, as ehelper humorously alluded to, "No big heavy things in storage area of your Maxx are there?"
Because you did not have a crank event at all with the ignition key it would not be a fuel issue. That would keep vehicle from starting but not cranking.
I would like to rule out some things so hope you are game to answer a few (LOL) questions:
1. When you mentioned that the remote start worked but then a few minutes later it wouldn't work either could you elaborate on what was done? After you did a remote start did you try to put the ignition key in and get vehicle to transition to "normal running" condition? Or did you do let the vehicle shut off by itself after 10 minutes? How many times did you try to do a remote start and how many times did it work successfully.
2. If you or your husband remembers what happened the first time you tried to start vehicle and it did not work....did you notice if there was anything unusual about operation of the vehicle? Did other stuff (radio, interior lights, heater blower fan, etc.) not work as well?
3. Was it dark when you were trying to start the vehicle. If it was dark out I would be interested in what happened to headlamps when you were trying to crank vehicle (did they go out or stay on).
4. Anything unusual about the instrument cluster gages or indicators? I am especially interested if you saw the Theft (car with a lock) telltale illuminated at any time or if the odometer ever read "ERROR".
That is probably enough questions for now.
I'll tell how I have cleared the no-start situation which has happened about 6 or so times to me.
Remove key from ignition. Open drivers door and close again. Using the key fob lock all doors. Unlock doors with key fob and open and close drivers door. You can do all this from the drivers seat. Insert key and crank again. The car should start.
I'm going to get this looked at on Monday, but my question is this... I was planning on taking a little trip tomorrow, about 1 hour each way... Would this be a problem at all? I figured that the car running too hot would be a safety issue, but too cold?
Any input would be much appreciated!
Not that you want to cause it to occur again but have you noticed any common links on the times when this problem has happened to you?
I'm not sure, but I tend to think that you're probably OK for a one hour trip each direction. My only concern would be that if the temp gauge were disabled you would have to depend totally on the temp warning light for any overheat condition, but as long as that light works properly during your startup you should be OK.
A strange occurence was when my car would not respond to any command from either key fob and then mysteriously started to respond about an hour later. Also, on one occasion my signal lights would not flash and then started to work again on the next startup cycle.
I really think there is a problem with the BCM or some other computer in the car.
1) We pressed the lock button and then held down the start button for a few seconds to get the car to start. Then put the key in the ignition and turned off the car to see if it would start with the key. It wouldn't, so we tried again with the remote, and it wouldn't work that time. We were only able to start the car with the remote once. After that one time, we tried it several (5-6) times, both key and remote start. Once we waited about an hour and tried again, it started each time, both ways (again 5-6 times) and again, started each time at the dealer.
2) My husband said that when he tried to start it, there was no sound of a "clicking", like a dead battery, or an attempt to turn over, but more of just a sort of very faint "humming" sound. He said all the instrument panel lights came on and my daughter specifically remembers seeing the seat belt light blinking. They didn't try the radio, which would have been turned off when I drove the car home anyway.
3) It wasn't dark.
4) They did ask me if we got the "Identity" option when we bought the vehicle, but we did not. My husband doesn't remember seeing any kind of "ERROR" messages anywhere.
Thanks for all the help. My husband was frustrated with the fact that the guy at the dealer seemed unwilling to accept any kind of computer/electrical problem and kept insisting it must be a fuel based problem. Like you, my husband was saying there was no attempt by the engine to turn over, so the fuel thing didn't make sense.
When the vehicle first remote started did you turn the ignition key to RUN and let the car run in "normal running" condition for a while or did you pretty much just cycle the ignition ON and OFF pretty quickly because you wanted to see if you could start the vehicle with the ignition key?
I am passing all of your comments to others for evaluation.
Let me clarify question on radio. I didn't mean any sound - just the display of the radio itself. Watch next time that you start the vehicle and you will see the display will usually blank out briefly when ignition key is turned to Crank and the vehicle is starting.
As for the car not responding to commands from the key fobs and then about an hour later responding again, I have no idea as to what was going on there. The car was parked all the time and not running. At one moment no response to both key fobs and then out of the blue it starts to respond. This and the signal lights not flashing has only happend once so far. Beats the hell outa me.
Taking it to the dealer while everthing it working again is a waste of time.
However, based on your experience today I would say it is a good possibility. Did you happen to notice when you put your husband's key in ignition that the security telltale (car with lock on it) was staying on?
Learn procedure (might be more complicated for Canadian vehicles) is simple. Insert a key that works into the ignition switch (your key) and turn to RUN. After the "bulb test", the telltale I keep mentioning should go out. Then turn off ignition remove key and within 10 seconds insert the new key in ignition and turn to run. The telltale should bulb test again and go out.
If it doesn't (and the lamp stays on) there might be something wrong with the new key. It should have a "+" symbol on its shank. If it says "PK3" instead that is the wrong type of key.
Once a key is "learned" to a vehicle it is a tied to it forever. The vehicle can learn a bunch of keys (10 or 11).
Please post back with your results when you get a chance
Be careful when giving all this information to the dealer - they might try to hire you
Hope everything works out. But this doesn't explain the problems that <3745> is experiencing.
In the end it will turn out to be a computer glitch. Something latches up or something of like that. Maybe if one were to remove and replace the appropriate fuse and cause the computer to reset everything will restore to normal. Why not put a reset button on the dash.....a nice big round red one labeled, "Push here to clear any funny event". But hey, I love my stupid Malibu!
They must be using a Windows operating system and the effects we are getting are the same as the blue screen of death.
Do folks have additional warranties/service agreements that are providing this benefit, or what?
As someone who may be purchasing a Malibu Maxx soon, I'm just curious.
Just trying to get an idea of how early/late in the model year some of my candidate Maxx vehicles were produced.
Someone else asked this recently, but I don't recall hearing an answer... regarding the replacement steering columns that are being installed in Malibus with troublesome steering-- are these steering columns actually an improved design that is not likely / less likely to fail than the OEM ones installed in early 2004 Maxxes?
This may be a repeat, but what approximate build date was the switchover from 'bad' to 'not as bad' steering columns/components?
If you want details go to NHTSA site and download this document
http://152.122.48.12/prepos/files/Artemis/Public/Pursuits/2004/PE- /INRL-PE04031-18086P.pdf
Service parts installed with improved design are being used. Approximate build date is in this document but to save you trouble it was early Feb 2004.
I have had some problems with the car;
A) Not starting
- but I feel as though it is because I a) left the interior lights on or b) didn't close the trunk tight enough (both I have done in numerous cars)
- It was fixed by jumping the car all three times.
Check engine light coming on
- Restarted the car, and hasn't happened since.
C) I get a "Check DAB" message w/ XM Radio
- It fixes itself after a few minutes, or a restart
These problems never really bothered me because they fixed themselves, and haven't popped up again.
Now, yesterday I am driving down the road and I abruptly loose power steering. I did what everone else did, and calmly pulled over and restarted the car. It was fine, and I didn't think anything of it because of the other problems fixing themselves after a restart, but it did it again. And again. And again. I looked in the manual about that "wrench icon" and "power steering" message and it said to take it to the dealership immediately. Which I have done. It is now sitting there.
This morning at 7AM, I come here and start surfing to see if any other owners have had the same problems, and low and behold.... they have.
Now I am **V E R Y** concerned here because....
I live in New Jersey and am leaving to DRIVE down to Florida TOMORROW!!!!!!!
This couldn't happen at a worse time, well it probably could but this is bad enough for me.
Now, my questions are this:
A) For those that had the steering column replaced (which is what the service center is more than likely going to tell me that that needs to be done) how long did it take them to do it. Can it be done in a day??!?!
and secondly:
Did that repair solve the problem, or has it happened to people since the repair?
**IF** they can fix it in one day and have the car ready for me to leave tomorrow, I am concerned that it will happen again either on the highway at a fast speed or in the parking lot of a Disney park where I won't be able to get out.
****IS THE CAR SAFE TO DRIVE*****?!?!?
I look forward to responses, or you can just email me at:
Johnnyecks@yahoo.com
Thank you very much!
repair time..depends on the availability of parts..I think most had to order the parts..as the dealers dont stock the column as part of normal inventory....good luck....
I also thought that the Malibu had battery rundown prevention and would switch off any lights that were left on after a period of time.
By comparison, my former Saturn ION appeared to use tin connectors on the engine computer electrical connectors and elsewhere in the wiring harnesses.
I also noted the electrical connectors for the gas tank (under the car near the right rear wheelwell ) seemed to have very little shielding from the elements.
Does one need to seal or coat these connectors with antioxidation spray if the vehicle is subjected to a lot of salt spray?
The car has the Bridgestone tires which also make noise. Is there another tire that is less noisy?