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Chevrolet Malibu Accessories & Modifications
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Comments
http://www.installer-data.com/item/display_item.php?it=99-3303
It's got a VFD display with three control buttons below the space for an aftermarket radio.
The company that makes it is called Metra. This item is in their PDF catalog on their web site.
http://www.metraonline.com/
For me, the trick will be finding an aftermarket radio that looks nice in there... :shades:
would like to see this bracket installed in a Maxx...and see how it works...would be interesting...
are you currently using one like this?
http://www.myradiostore.us/fmmodulators/fm-direct-sa10112.html
According to the instructions, using the "BAND" button on the radio will allow you to select the auxiliary input--I'm going to use it for my Sony XM receiver.
I installed the rear speakers yesterday, and will be installing the new component front speakers and the adaptor later today.
Will post the results, and if everything works, the adaptor number, etc.
PIE (Precision Interface Electronics--www.pie.net), called, they do not have an adaptor.
I found another adapter-- Peripheral Interface Components #PXGM24-- that is 24 pin and made for GM class 2 RDS factory stereos. It provides 2 sets of RCA inputs. $97 at Sounddomain; will give it a try and post results.
The front speakers were replaced with Blaupunkt TSC 660 components (separate 6.75" bass/mid driver and tweeter. I sealed the crossovers in a plastic bag/bubble plastic and used double sided tape to secure them to the inner door panels. The factory tweeters pop out. Their metal mesh grill is melted into the housing, so I used a soldering gun to heat the plastic and pop them out (the grills on the Blau tweeters are not removable).
The rear door speakers were replaced with Blaupunkt TSx 662's. These are 6.75" two way speakers. You could easily use the Blaupunkt TSC 660's in the rear door panels by mounting the tweeters in "sail" panel of the rear door, just as they are in front.
Everything was purchased at Crutchfield. The Blaupunkt TSC 660 component speakers are on sale for $40 ($70 off reg) and the Blaupunkt TSx 662's are $30 ($20 off). Crutchfield includes wiring adaptors, so you do not have to cut the factory wiring.
Removing the door panels is not difficult. You definitely want to purchase a trim removal tool ($10)--it will save your door panels and retainer clips from damage.
There are three panel clips on the bottom of each door. The front doors also have retainers at spots near the top of the panel, so don't just pop the lower retainers and then attempt to pull the panel up/off like you do on the rear doors.
The factory manual states that you must first remove the front door panels in order to remove the front "sail" panels (where the tweeters are). I found it is was better to use the panel tool to pop the front sail panel, and pull it straight up (but not completely off). By doing so, it would not interfere with pulling the actual door panel up/off.
The front drivers door is the most difficult, because of all its wiring. I think Chevy must build the car upside down, as nearly all the releases for the Molex wiring connecters are on the bottom of the control/switch. Do the other panels first, that way you'll have an idea of what to expect. Having a helper would also make it easier.
As long as I had the panels off, I added insulation inside the door. I used "Gutter Repair Tape" $13 for a 6" x 25' roll at Lowes. This is a rubberized asphalt tape with super sticky adhesive on one side and aluminum foil on the other. It is 1mm thick, and I built it up to 2-4 millimeters in thickness inside the door.
Definitely quieted the car down, and does not stink like using spray-on undercoating. I used a total of three rolls for all four doors, and have some left over. There is enough clearance inside the doors to easily double the thickness if you wanted to.
Bottom line-the speakers are an improvement. No, they do not sound like $200 Infinity Reference speakers, but at $70 for all four, they are worth it. Much more accurate, better bass/midrange/highs than the stock speakers (which, by the way, are paper cones).
As noted by another poster, an amplifier would make them come "alive"--my new speakers sound best at half volume and above. Will add an amplifier later.
It's good to know the Maxx's amp/head unit is decent enough that the better speakers are noticed. I've got an Isuzu Trooper and installed some Polk 2-way speakers in place of the stock speakers, and the quality was barely any better than stock - I think because the head unti must be junk.
Although a 24pin unit, the connectors are "keyed" opposite the factory wiring harness. I considered cutting the wiring on the adaptor, turning it over 180 degrees, and reconnecting the wires.
As there was no guarantee that the adaptor would work, even with the correct connector, so, with $100 on the line, I chickened out and returned the adaptor to CarDomain.com.
Personally, I think with the correct Molex connector, the adaptor probably would work. If there is anyone who has access to Molex connectors, are knows how to disassemble/reassemble the connector, this might be a interesting project.
--MadMaxx--
Can I just replace the 4 door speakers and leave the door tweaters alone? Would replacing the tweaters make a big difference if I had 4 good speakers? Are all 4 door speakers 6.75 round? What size are the tweaters? Do I need any extra parts for the speaker replacement? I have replaced speakers in all my cars before and it was easy but it sounds like the Maxx may be a little harder. Finally, do I get the trim tool at a dealer or at any auto store?
Thanks in advance.
At least Maxx has aluminum suspension arms which already helps.
Forged would reduce unsprung weight, but very few for Maxx right now. As for chrome wheels, in LA CA they'll yell "Yo take me home!" to the Maxx passerbys.
I just wish I had a job so I could buy one.....
~ maxxdbass
All the speakers use the 6.75" size. You do not have to replace the front tweeters if you do not want to, but they would not be sonically matched to your new main speakers, and would receive the full frequency signal from the head unit. Component speaker sets include a crossover, so only the tweeter receives the high frequency signal, and therefore a much improved sound.
I would recommend you replace the front door speakers with component speakers, including replacing the factory tweeters. It takes just a few minutes to remove the factory tweeters, and the improvement is very noticible--the crossovers really help.
If I was to do it again, I would install the same Blaupunkt component speakers in both the front AND the rear doors. It would be a simple matter of just drilling a hole in the rear door "sail" panels to feed the cable through, and then just surface mount the tweeter. The tweeters are the standard 1.5" size.
The installation is pretty easy. Don't know about other retailers, but Crutchfield includes a wiring adaptor with each set of speakers they sell, so you do not have to cut or splice into the factory wiring. No other parts are needed for the installation.
The trim tool is not required, but really makes removing the panel easier, and without damage to it or the fastner. For $10 you'll save yourself a lot of aggravation and possible damage to the door/door panel/fastner. Trim tools are available at auto parts stores, and from Crutchfield. Once you use the proper tool, you'll never use screwdrivers to remove the panels again.
I see on your dash kit pics that your Maxx has a little black clip that can hold a picture of something. Before buying my Maxx, I was excited about this tiny feature because I had an idea of what I wanted to go there. My 05 doesn't have this clip? Did they do away with them in 05? Anyone know?
They do sound better than the stock speakers as the highs are better but there is still room for improvement. A new head unit would really improve things but you have to give up the driver information center and spend a lot of money to make a new unit fit. I need more clean volume as the stock head unit distorts at higher volume. An amp might help but the stock head unit processing may not be as clean as an aftermarket unit and I may just end up just pushing more distorted sound through the speakers. I will drive this for a while and see.
The component tweaters were difficult to install as they were larger than the stock tweaters. I had to use a Dremel to remove the plastic holders for the old tweaters and then hot melt the new ones in. .
??? for the MAXX? Where to get? I imagine it is the same for a malibu sedan? I would even opt for 1 that breaksdown or is temporary since I would only need on those long family vacations. Thanks in advance? D~
BTW- I bought a hitch and will be installing soon after some other mods to it
Anyone know for sure?
The K & N creates a larger sound. You can hear the motor sucking air, much like running the motor with no air cleaner at all. It is kind of sporty sounding.
I no longer use the K & N filters. With the OEM filters (always used AC Delco) my oil would get a bit brown when time for a change. After using the K & N filters for a few months, I noticed that my oil was jet black...and almost sludge like. I realized that the reason the this was happening was the filter. The K & N was less restrictive because it was not filtering as well.
After switching back to AC Delco filters, it took well over a year for each vehicle to clean itself out and stop producing black oil. I can only imagine the damage and unnecessary wear I caused those motors.
I started reading posts at various auto sites, and found that many people have killed their MAF sensors by using these filters. If a dealership finds one on your vehicle, it will void the warranty. These types of filters use a media that is soaked in oil. As air is drawn through it, this oil is collected by the air and sucked into the air intake. Over time, it coats the MAF sensor and ruins it. The oil also carries small particles of the dirt that is supposed to be stopped by the filter. This oily dirt gets into the motor.
I gave up on K & N about 3 years ago. Although 2 of these vehicles were still driveable with over 175,000 miles on each, they were not well running machines. All of my other vehicles have gone MUCH farther without becoming as rough, hard to start, and sluggish as all 3 of these vehicles became. (We still own the Olds 88, and it is nowhere's near what it used to be.