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Lease Termination Fees and other costs

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  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 235,188
    I'd be very wary of signing a lease with Ally..

    Currently, on new leases... there is a $2500 purchase option on top of the residual, if you want to buy out the car..

    Yes... that's exactly what I meant to write.... they want to charge you extra to buy the car at lease end..

    Most leasing banks will beg you to buy the car, rather than turn it back in... Make sense of that one!

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  • dwynnedwynne Member Posts: 4,018
    that hurls, and is not what you want at lease end. Most folks would run to another car brand / lease bank for their next vehicle - which should NOT be what they want you to do either.

    Honda is best I have ever used, with the pre-inspection report and forgiveness for a lot of stuff. They certainly make you want to lease from them again (and we have).
  • ddeliseddelise Member Posts: 353
    I cannot figure out how this makes sense for them. I would love to see the accounting/business case against that one!
  • ddeliseddelise Member Posts: 353
    I did get a call from the Finance Manager yesterday. He said he sent the fax on Saturday (2 days after turn-in), and resent yesterday. I need to call again today to verify. Too much work for the consumer.

    And I ended up buying a used 2010 Mazda6s Grand Touring...
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 235,188
    It looks like they just started that about a year ago..... I guess the chickens will come home to roost in a couple years, when those first 36 month leases mature...

    I don't see how that's going to work, either.... but, maybe they have a plan....lol

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  • ddeliseddelise Member Posts: 353
    Perhaps they are trying to drive more sales through the dealers? How about this scenario: Dealer says - "Hey you can buy the car for $16,000 + $2,500 = $18,500 directly from Ally. Or, I can work a deal with Ally and sell the car to you for only $17,500, including a CPO?"

    So, a dubious "win/win" - the dealer gets a sale, and the consumer "saves" $1000!
  • dwynnedwynne Member Posts: 4,018
    Everyone knows it costs a lot more to attract a customer than it does to retain a good one. Ally missed that lesson and wonders why repeat lease business is so bad...

    Folks who finance or own their cars may or may not decide to trade cars. Folks at the lease end can either turn it in or buy it - and most turn it in. So those are 100% for sure in the market for a car. So let us hack these for sure buyers off at the turn in to be sure they don't lease with us again? Not smart, but it appears the "strategy" is working!
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 235,188
    Maybe they got tired of everyone trying to negotiate their lease buyout amount.... Now, when they call, they'll say, "Sure, if you want, we can knock $2500 off your buyout!". LOL

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  • british_roverbritish_rover Member Posts: 8,502
    Volvo was doing something similar with XC90s for most of last year and the start of this year. They just don't want you to lease the car they want you to buy it.
  • lch77lch77 Member Posts: 53
    Thanks to all who responded to my post (#1113). As it turns out two dealers offered me $400 over my buy-out price plus the $600 taillight replacement to trade my CX-9 in on the car I was interested in buying from them. A third dealer said that while the car is worth a little more than the buyout, Mazda dings non-Mazda dealers $3,000 to do this. Another dealer agreed and I called Mazda (Ford) credit who confirmed this.

    Basically, I can buy the car for buyout plus Mazda dealer fees or trade it in on a new Mazda or drop it off and pay for the taillight. I can't even buy the car and then sell it to a dealer because I'd have to pay the sales tax or generate a bunch of paperwork making it not worthwhile.

    Bottom line, I cannot take advantage of the $1,000 (new tires and 8,000 miles under allowable) equity unless I trade it in on another Mazda.
  • ddeliseddelise Member Posts: 353
    So, 3 weeks later and the inspection has still not been performed.

    The initial delay was due to the dealer not faxing in the paperwork.

    The next delay was that after the inspection was scheduled, the car was moved to a different dealership so the inspector did not have access. This occurred on March 23.

    After speaking with CS, I was assured the inspection was reset for Friday the 25th. I waited over a week to call back, and nothing has happened. Because I called, CS is now going to look into what is going on. If I did not call, would this inspection just be waiting for eternity???

    This is now beyond frustrating and I have a feeling this is not going to end well.
  • jonnyrebjonnyreb Member Posts: 1
    Ok, here is one to figure out!
    Anyone have lease insurance? Through IA Pacific?
    I put in a claim in Dec/2010 but was told to have an extra payment in bank in case investigation took longer than a month. In April, they started paying.
    I asked about Januarys payment that came out of my account and was told to talk to GMAC to get it back.
    GMAC says that because the insurance company is paying my lease monthly (in arrears) that I am not due any money back.
    Now I am stuck between two large corporations that say it is the others responsibility to pay.
    I have no income now and the $325 would help out a lot.
    If you have lease insurance you should find out how it works before it's too late.
  • had_enoughhad_enough Member Posts: 1
    As briefly as possible, the story is this: I leased a new Subaru Outback 3 years ago, and had every intention of buying the car at the end of the lease because I could not afford to buy at that point. I made a large down payment to keep my monthly payments manageable. I intended to but the car at that point, and purchased extra mileage and the extended maintenance plan. I took the car in for all required service, oil changes, etc., and this was no easy feat- the dealership had many units being sold and ONE Subaru-qualified tech to work on the cars. I was a good customer, always paid my bills on time, always paid the full amount. Over time, I became very disgusted with the poor service at the dealership, and had an opportunity to buy another car, so when the lease was up, I turned it in. I had my suspicions about being ripped off because of the previous reviews about Chase Auto loans & leases, so I had the car professionally detailed, called my insurance co. to get an estimate on the "normal wear & tear", and took many photos of the car. All I received from the dealership was a mileage slip, and was told that they-Chase- would pick it up and take it to auction to sell. This took two months !! NOW they have the nerve to tell me that because THEY didn't sell the car for two months, I owe more personal property tax ! They originally sent me an outraegeous bill for the end of lease disposition fee, excess wear & tear, etc. I called them and flatly refused to pay the excessive amount, and the agent retabulated the numbers, and gave me only the disposition fee, and the tax. I was very suspicious when they kept urging me to pay it over the phone, and I refused, stating that I needed a statement reflecting the exact charges listed and defined. They sent the statement, and I sent them a check. I also sent them a check which was sent to me by the Virginia DMV for my license plate transfer refund that I paid, but the DMV said Chase had to cash it as it was made out to them (which I thought was stupid) and send me the refund. Now, I am receiving letters that I still owe more money, even though I received and paid the previous "final bill". I called them to clear this up, and even spoke to the agent who had sent me the last bill. She then told me that more money had been attributed to my account, and it needed to be paid. I replied that that was unacceptable and became upset. She transferred me to her supervisor- an absolute jerk- who said that if I didn't like it, we could go back to the original amount that they were trying to shaft me with in the first place ! The MATH on the original statement didn't even add up correctly, and this guy is basically trying to get me to pay any other monies he can coerce me into ! He even stated that the DMV refund check would have been destroyed because the clerks at the billing office wouldn't know what to do with it !!? I am so furious with this whole situation- I will NEVER lease a car again, and will never do business with Chase- they are RUINING the Subaru product name, and the people who work for Chase are THIEVES !!
  • lch77lch77 Member Posts: 53
    had enough,

    Sorry to hear about your unpleasant dealings. I have had pretty good experiences with all of my leases, but I see two major issues:

    1. BEFORE your lease is up and you turn the car in, the finance company will usually send someone to inspect the car. That is the time that they can point out any damage that they consider excessive. Often, they will send you a guide to show you how much damage they will accept at no charge. I think Honda accepts $1,500. Mazda (through Ford) gives you a card with dimensions plus a list of allowable dings. I remember it being something like one half-dollar sized ding per panel. The main point here is you agree to the excess wear and tear and the price before you return the car. The only charge after that could be for extra miles.

    2. If there is a disposition fee, it should be clearly listed in your original lease contract. Don't pay a penny more.

    There can be times that a manufacturer will use an unrealistically high residual value. This would have the effect of reducing the monthly payments in order to "sell" more cars. This doesn't cause any pain until you turn the car in and it isn't worth as much as the residual. If that's what happened, they are just trying to get you to pay a portion of this amount.

    Depending on the trim and mileage, the residual on a Subaru Outback is running around 52%. To learn more about leasing, check the ridewithg site.
  • rx2manrx2man Member Posts: 14
    Last night I leased a wrangler, I was told my residual would be 14419, seemed fair enough to me. Went to finance and noticed the 14419 was 16919 in the Purchase option section at the bottom. Finance guy did not know why and mentioned again that their new computer system was causing everyone problems still and also that they did not do many leases. So he fix's and it comes back at 14919, I said thats' still not right and he this time writes over the top of the stack in pen and makes the change, all copies reflect the 14419 and I initialled the change. I plan to buy the jeep at the end and the residual was sticking point the entire process so I am glad I caught this butt........from reading the forums this $2500 is something that Ally finacial does. I'm good to go correct, if someone has to eat the $2500 it will not be me correct? The deal is still good? I drove away in it LOL and just now figured all this out.
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 235,188
    My guess:

    Ally will kick that contract back.... and, you'll have to sign a new contract or give the car back..

    Dealers can't change residuals on their own...

    Good luck,
    kyfdx

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  • rx2manrx2man Member Posts: 14
    At this point its used vehicle correct so resign the contract with the 14419 as the correct buy back price, residual would change at that point and be lower?? I mean if its used they cant sell it new anymore so at this point jsut fix it and be done?
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 235,188
    edited July 2011
    No.. that isn't what I meant..

    As you noted, Ally charges $2500 more than the residual to buy out their leases... It's been that way for over a year (from anecdotal evidence in these forums)..

    You'll have to sign a contract with what Ally determines is the correct purchase option amount ($2500 more).. Otherwise, you'll have to give the car back.

    I hope I'm wrong..

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  • delta737hdelta737h Member Posts: 626
    edited July 2011
    I concur with kyfdx...

    However, I'm convinced it's not a mistake. I believe the sales person knew damn well that Ally has a $2,500 purchase option fee yet made the change just to pacify and entice you to lease the vehicle. If he/she didn't know, that doesn't relieve them of their responsibility to know and understand their financial products. How could so many of us know this, yet, those in the leasing business that do this stuff daily, and for a living, not know??? Doesn't seem credible to me.

    John
    The AutoLeaseGeek
  • rx2manrx2man Member Posts: 14
    delta, I am surprised that not only my salesperson, the finance guy, the guy crunching the numbers and the GM of the dealership did not know. The finance guy said the did not do a lot of leases and also said they had a new computers system giving people problems, but that could just have been their story. I have never leased before and was trying to see if I got a good deal when I found out about this whole $2500 part. I fail to see how this whole thing benefits the dealership though. I have a contract, if it goes south it seems to be on them.
  • delta737hdelta737h Member Posts: 626
    edited July 2011
    rx2man,

    The "blame it on the computer" is typical. Software vendors generally provide outstanding training and support on new software. As such, that story is real tough to swallow. And so, I think they all new exactly what they were doing. Independent of software and, regardless of the computer software used, they had to know that Ally charges a $2,500 purchase fee. My God, that's common knowledge among all dealers having agency agreements with Ally Bank. So, their computer explanation is pure BS.

    If they hadn't reduced the buyout to a residual buyout, would you still have leased the vehicle? If not, there's your answer. They were able to make a sale because they changed the buyout price to a residual buyout, even though it's bogus.

    As for Ally Bank kicking back the faulty paper work, they'll cross that bridge when they get to it. By that time, the hope is that you will have fallen in love with the vehicle. And, the more time that passes, the easier it will be for them to convince you to keep the vehicle. Don't be surprised if they offer you some sort of split on the $2,500 purchase option fee particularly if they already have enough profit in the deal. So, time is their ally (no pun intended). Frankly, they should eat the $2,500. My dad told me long ago that if you make a mistake in business, you eat your mistake... no exceptions!

    John
    The AutoLeaseGeek
  • rx2manrx2man Member Posts: 14
    Wow, NO I would not have bought at the higher amount. Its was supposed to be 13800 and the sales person said there was some confusion on their end and the 13800 was for a base, mine was 15800 once we showed up at the dealership. At that point we were walking and they split the diff to 14787 but in the end it was 14419. The 16919 was a no deal.
    They have my trade in as well so if they sell it are'nt they in a bit of a jam, also is this now technically a used car. All I have to do is say original deal or give me my car back and they are somewhat stuck with having to honor it?? Sorry to keep asking questions but trying to get an idea as to how this is going to play out. And thank you delta for taking the time to reply
  • delta737hdelta737h Member Posts: 626
    edited July 2011
    In your original post, you said...

    "I said thats' still not right and he this time writes over the top of the stack in pen and makes the change, all copies reflect the 14419 and I initialled the change."

    I have no idea what "writes over the top of the stack" means. The bottom line is this...

    Was this penned change written on the lease agreement or was it written on some dealer internal document? If it was some internal document, then Ally will never see the penned change. So, you go merrily along until lease end when, to your surprise, you discover that the buyout is $16,919 and nothing was ever changed. The paper you're holding with the penned change could be meaningless and unenforceable in a court of law.

    I can't believe a dealer would amend a contract by using a pen to cross out a number and, then, inking a different number. If I were the fund provider (Ally), I would send it right back to the dealer. They should know better which leads me to think that they inked the change on some meaningless document.

    If they made the change on the lease contract, then, in all probabilty, they'll have to eat the $2,500. I don't know how much trade credit they gave you, if any, but they may have enough profit in the deal to eat the entire $2,500. DO NOT let them negotiate the $2,500 by agreeing to some split. That's out of the question and, as far as I'm concerned, it's non-negotiable as it's a done deal. If they made a mistake, it's on them.

    I don't blame people for being stupid, but I do ask them to pay for their stupidity (mistakes). I'm not about to be victimized because of their stupidity.

    John
    The AutoLeaseGeek
  • rx2manrx2man Member Posts: 14
    I have no idea what "writes over the top of the stack" means. The bottom line is this

    sorry yes the lease contract, about 4-5 pages, you write on the top one it goes through all copies. they made a change on the contract. It sounds crazy but thats what happened. I have no idea if they made much on the trade. A 08 Sonata base 4 cyl auto in good shape no issue with 81k. So a lot of miles. We owed $7700 on it paperwork shows $9150 trade in which is high KBB trade in. But $9150 is just a number if the cost of the vehicle is higher as well. So I dont know what their margin is but I really dont think its $2500, they were trying to make this go through. Thanks again for your time.
  • dwynnedwynne Member Posts: 4,018
    Keep in mind, you said:

    "Last night I leased a wrangler, I was told my residual would be 14419, seemed fair enough to me. Went to finance and noticed the 14419 was 16919 in the Purchase option section at the bottom."

    So your lease payment is correctly based on the residual you think is fair. The only problem is that the lease bank charges this silly-high buyout fee on top of the residual. Check your lease contract and see what the turn in fee is, it could be a rip of as well. The bank will not fund the lease if the numbers are not correct and the dealer can't change the residual or buy out fee or price. So unless they didn't change the copy they sent to the bank it is coming back. At hat point you should just unwind the deal - if you plan on buying the vehicle at lease end - and leasing from another bank or dealership. You can also check online at leasecompare.com to see what rates / payments they have.

    Most every dealer will make you sign a form that says if the financing does not go through you have to bring it back. This lets them do business nights and weekends when they can't get approval for every deal before handing over he keys. Some have a per day and / or per mile charge on this form. If you signed one of these, then you have to pay them to take back the car -the amount based on days and miles you kept it,

    Lease then purchase CAN make sense and I have done it before myself, but only when I had a super low factory backed lease rate. This lease deal is probably not at a promo rate so probably does not make any sense to lease then buy if you want to own the vehicle just get a loan and buy it now. You can run the numbers and see how much money you are tossing away on the lease / purchase but I would guess it is a large amount.
  • rx2manrx2man Member Posts: 14
    I ran the numbers both ways and its a wash in the end within a few hundred IF I did the numbers right and I think I did. IT got me a payment my wife is happy with now so thats what counts at this time. I talked with a dealer on a jeep forum, he does not think it was intentional and they have a new computer system at dealers that is causing problems. I dont know why they say they were not familiar with the Ally leasing program. The other dealer said it should all work out in the end and to just wait for them to contact me.
  • rx2manrx2man Member Posts: 14
    For anyone who is curous as to how this turned out. The dealer called last Tues, the GM said all their Ally leases were messed up and I would have new paperwork to sign. Today I got the new paperwork. This time with Bank of America. Same numbers as before and BOA does not have $2500 buy out at the end. So I am happy it all worked out.
  • pwong8pwong8 Member Posts: 4
    I am halfway through my lease right now for a 2010 Audi A3 and I need tires pretty soon. Does anybody know if Audi will charge me if I return the car with tires of a different brand? I find the stock tires too noisy and planning to opt for a "quieter" set.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,889
    Look on your contract and see what the requirements are. The only car I ever had to worry about tires on was our Chrysler and the terms merely said the tires had to have at least 4/10" tread depth. No mention of brand.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Administrator Posts: 11,145
    edited August 2011
    Agree w/qbrozen on checking the contract, though I can't imagine why they'd be upset at you returning the vehicle with nicer, newer tires on it, as long as they were the right size.

    If it's a problem per the contract, you can always keep the old tires and have them put back on right before the lease ends.

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  • dwynnedwynne Member Posts: 4,018
    Only an option if the OEM set has 4/32" or more tread left.

    I would check the lease contract, I am sure there is something about the tread depth and they have to match. If the car has a full size spare all 5 may have to match. The speed and load ratings have to meet or exceed the OEM tires as well. They could limit you to just OEM tires (there could be several) as well. To CPO a car they have to have lots of tread and be OEM tires, so dealers do not like to see turn ins with non-standard tires.
  • im_brentwoodim_brentwood Member Posts: 4,883
    As long as they match and are the right size and speed rating you should be fine.

    Just make sure they're name brand... get some Chinese no names and you might get hit.
  • lch77lch77 Member Posts: 53
    Agree with Brentwood, with emphasis placed on the rating. If the car came with "V" rated tires, don't replace them with "H" rated tires.
  • im_brentwoodim_brentwood Member Posts: 4,883
    Exactly.

    Jaguar would allow one speed rating downgrade, from a Z to a V, but if the car came in with non-performance tires, you'd get charged for a set of OE rubber ($900+)
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Administrator Posts: 11,145
    Well yeah... I'm assuming that the vehicle is fairly new to the lessee, and thus would currently have barely-worn tires. I can't imagine bothering to replace the tires for better ride quality near the END of a lease!

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  • dwynnedwynne Member Posts: 4,018
    They said "I am halfway through my lease right now for a 2010 Audi A3 and I need tires pretty soon" so I assumed they would be too worn out to turn in.

    Another reason to love Honda Finance lease "Excess Wear and Use Waiver" of $500 per incident up to a total of $1,500. I turned in my 2005 S2000 (before getting the 2008) with 2 low tread tires on it. No charge since they were under the limit.
  • ronnycronnyc Member Posts: 33
    Hi. I have a CRV lease. BUT, unfortunately, due to the economy, etc., I've been out of work for 2 years. Still looking! I can't afford the car any more. It's a 2009 CRV with less than 6000 miles, so it's totally cherry. What should I do (besides move to Brazil).

    RON
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 235,188
    Do you have a CarMax nearby?

    They'll make you an offer to buy your car, and check with Honda Finance for the payoff amount..

    Most leased cars are worth less than the payoff, but since yours has low miles and CR-Vs hold their value, you may find that they will pay you enough to walk away from it.

    regards,
    kyfdx

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  • ronnycronnyc Member Posts: 33
    THANKS!!! I'll try that.
  • dhyun3dhyun3 Member Posts: 13
    Anyone has experiences? I will need to return my 3 series in a month and would like to know whether I should take my car to an auto shop to look at it before I meet with an inspector from BMW. I've heard that once they find some issues, the car must be fixed by a licensed BMW shop which tends to be more expensive...
    I also lost one of my car keys - do you guys know how much they will charge?

    Leasing at the beginning and driving until these days are wonderful...but not look forward to paying some fees...
  • dwynnedwynne Member Posts: 4,018
    It is always cheaper to fix stuff yourself rather than paying the dealer via lease end fees. I would get whatever fixed you know needs doing prior to inspection - like the key. I have not heard or a requirement to have issues fixed by a dealer only, I can't see how they could make you do that.

    Also consider selling your car to a dealer like Carmax or via the autotrader "trade in market place". Also, any BMW dealer or other dealer may like to buy it for their lot. As long as it is not a "turn in" then you don't have to worry about the inspection. The missing key should be replaced soon as every dealer will knock off for that. Compare the current buy out price (without tax) vs the offers you get for your 3. Anything over the buy out goes into your pocket, accept under and it comes out of your pocket. Even then you might be better of to sell at a loss than to pay high lease end fees, if you owe them.
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 235,188
    I've returned two vehicles to BMWFS, and never had an issue... I've always found them to be very lenient...

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  • gastrowgastrow Member Posts: 1
    My lease on my BMW is up next month and I called the dealer to see about buying the car. They told me I had to speak to BMW finance since "they own the car and we have nothing to do with you buying the car" . Is that correct?? And can you negotiate the residual?
  • lch77lch77 Member Posts: 53
    It varies between manufacturers.
    I had a Mazda with equity but couldn't sell it to any dealer. The rules came from Ford who owns all or part of Mazda. I understand that Audi also restricts selling of its leased cars.
    However, I just turned in a Subaru and instead of paying a $350 turn in fee plus the cost of a few repairs that were in excess of their allowance, I found a dealer who paid me $650.
    So, first the manufacturer must allow a dealer sale (you can always buy it yourself and then sell it but then you have to pay the sales tax) and the car needs to retail for well over the buyout price.
  • dwynnedwynne Member Posts: 4,018
    The dealer is correct. If you want to buy at something other than the current buyout price you have to talk to the lease bank. To buy or sell at the buyout price you can use any licensed dealer.

    The way it used to work with BMW - if you turned your car in then BMW would offer it to that dealer before rolling it through the auction. BMW lesees would use this to buy their cars CPO off lease. Turn it in, have it certified, buy it back (paying buyout price, CPO fee, and dealer markup). Normally you would work with the dealership's used car manager on such a deal. Shop around BMW dealers since the amount of markup could vary.

    Other lease banks require the car be auctioned so the turn in dealer doesn't get first dibs on the cars.

    Most lease banks carry residual insurance to cover their turn ins, so there is no incentive to negotiate a lower price with you.
  • jeffmetannajeffmetanna Member Posts: 3
    Hi, I will be returning my 2010 Rogue AWD this week to the dealership. I'd like to know how much it will cost me to return the car. I know there will be a disposition fee of $400 (I think?) + any charges for excessive wear and use.

    I think my Rogue is relatively in a good condition. The mileage is under 20k and there hasn't been any accidents or repairs. There are some minor scratches on the side, on the bumpers and on the side mirrors. Tires are in a very good condition.

    I was thinking of giving it a good wash and taking it to a shop to recondition it before heading to the dealership for the inspection.

    Any advices for me? And please share your experiences with me regarding this.

    Also, during the last 3 years of lease, I only had 3 oil changes and nothing else. Would that be a problem?

    Thanks!
  • abelangerabelanger Member Posts: 4
    I have leased a car for the first time. Because I could not afford the payments on new.
    The first 100 miles, the ride was very rough. Took it back and they took air out of the tires. But it was still rough ride. I was told it was the tires. So I had to pay a tire dealer, Bridgestone were put on, Still rough but not as bad. It was suggested I put on Michelin, The Michelin felt like there was more rubber on the road. But the ride was still very rough. had the original tires put back Hankook. After going to several dealers. I am told the car was made to ride that way. Hyundai Customer Service said the car is made to ride stiff. I know cars , I restore antiques. Something is wrong with the suspension. Hyundai will do nothing. I am stuck with it until the end of the lease.
    Very uncomfortable car to drive. It now has 6,000 miles.
  • gabby10gabby10 Member Posts: 32
    i had a friend that had a issue with his car not a Hyundai
    but if it is the type of tire that are self sealant to help prevent flat tire
    they give you harder ride , he went through several types and finally got Michelin man , when you did test drive did you notice that type of ride
    good luck
  • gabby10gabby10 Member Posts: 32
    also i have heard that the tires that are able to run FLAT will give you harder or stiffer ride ,
  • lepialepia Member Posts: 45
    Hello all,

    I have a 2012 lease. The lease is 15 months old. I only have 9200 miles and the car has no scratches.

    I would like to take advantage of the sign and drive event vw is offering.

    Is it possible to turn in my lease and get into a new one without any penalties, and making the same monthly payments as my current lease?

    Are there any incentives to VW owners and if yes, do these incentives apply to me?

    Let me know what to expect from the dealer and how to negotiate the deal,

    Thanks,
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