Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Options
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
I recently updated the situation here: http://toyotanation.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1144399&postcount=99
This a good opportunity to get one of these kits if you are interested.
If you are, add yourself to the list: http://toyotanation.com/forum/t122904-7.html
1- 4x4 is not to be used on paved roads unless you are towing, ( the dealership said if their wet or icy is the exception) why is this. i know the turning radius is less. but is it going to damage the transfer case? or the limited slip? or the diff? my last vehicle was a 4x4 AWD grand cherokee orvis. needless to say its a completely different 4x4 system but it can go on and off road. what damage will occur if the tacoma is in 4x4 on the street. the dealership told me it would happen while turning?
2- pop your hood and follow your manifold, right after the manifold is your cats, one on each side. now right after that there are two ??? silencers maybe. not sure. the exhaust tubing flares out kind of like a large collector, then tapers back down to standard size and then dumps out to the muffler. anyone have an idea of what these are. and if their silencers, why 2, why not one later on in the cat back? take note of the exhaust tube under the driver side, lovely job of bottle necking the tube. why? who knows, just trying to figure out what i am looking at. regardless the tubing from the manifold back is sorta.. ghetto. ide throw a cat back on just to get some mandrel bent tubing. i just cant justify 3-600 for cosmetic value.
thanks in advance
aaron
this is just a noisy motor,
i hear clicks
i hear odd engine noise, in comparison to other vehicles im use to.
ever think, hey maybe im just a bit paranoid, and maybe its just a noisy motor.
most of what i hear sounds like valve train noise, rockers, valves etc.
another thing to consider, pop the lid cover on the motor. and take note of the M A S S I V E air box, and all the silencer crap they put on there. ive heard that the people putting in k&n FIPK kits on our trucks claim that it makes it substantially noiser. is it possible that the clicking noises are really just muffeled engine noise in the air box?
im holding off on the FIPK in hopes of a supercharger
the motor sounds bitchin at WOT, sounds like a lil race car.
but when your just pussyfooting it around town. it makes engine noise.
regardless im glad i got the 100k warranty. and i wouldnt worry about small engine noises too much, worst case senario. their gonna fix it on their tab.
all and all. i love my new truk. even tho it makes some noise.
I don't think that is the noise you are hearing. I have an intake on my truck and it doesn't have that click at all.
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t122579.html
Explain this though: I called my insurance company and I was quoted $27 lower for this truck than my '05 was.
For your truck, you should use 4wd on a surface with some slip. Gravel, dirt, snow, ice, whatever. I really wouldnt use it just cause its raining. Straight roads wont hurt it, even on dry, but sharp corners can cause bind. Some owners have reported this happening.
Still there are times like in snow squalls where road goes back and forth; snow covered, dry, back to snow again. I don't constantly shift in and out. Just leave it unless you gonna make a tight dry corner.
I've used 4wd for approx 700-800 mi of the trucks 14.5K life. Never had it bind, just use common sense. Surprising, seen in no appreciable loss in mpg either.
I'd consider other brands if there are no drilling and cutting involved in the installation so if any of you has had any experience -- good or bad -- with their tonneau covers then please let me know.
Also, anyone bought a locking gas cap for their Tacoma? Where and what was the cost? Thanks!
I have noticed this when backing out of my driveway on showy/icy mornings. My driveway is a 10% grade up to the street, so sometimes I need the 4wd to back out of the driveway. But I have noticed that it is very difficult to turn the wheel as I get onto the plowed and sanded road.
How much damage am I doing by doing this?
I have noticed this when backing out of my driveway on showy/icy mornings. My driveway is a 10% grade up to the street, so sometimes I need the 4wd to back out of the driveway. But I have noticed that it is very difficult to turn the wheel as I get onto the plowed and sanded road.
How much damage am I doing by doing this?
If you are on a surface requiring 4WD, you will not hurt the system because you can get some slip. Once you get to traction surface, you should kick out the 4WD.
Thanks again!
The retail on the Lorado is over $400 plus shipping. We got it for $325 shipped!
Check this link if anybody is interested in getting a nice Tonneau. Read the whole thread.
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t118926.html
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t123139.html
I couldn't be more pleased about quality, appearance and function. For a good picture of this, go online to www.FOLD-A-COVER.COM
I went folding/ridgid because of preference for load bearing properties (rated for 800 pounds) not that heavy snows in my area will ever max out that load bearing.
You get what you pay for. Mine was slightly over $600. freight included. Assembly instructions are excellent.
I have already been shopping at my local Leer dealer. Since the 100R, which is fairly basic costs between $1,100 and $1,500 depending on options, I am going to get that one after recovering from the sting of paying sales tax. I didn't even ask how much the XL and XQ cost.
To brake in the shortest distance, brake as hard as you can WITHOUT invoking the ABS. Once the ABS kicks in on snow, the tire 'skips' across the top of the surface rather than digging down with all the forward weight shift.
I wish I could easily shut off ABS on snow, But with snow tires, it takes a near panic stop to get the ABS going. Stock tires it doesnt take much, practice in a safe area. You may thank youself later...
Doubt all the blasphemy you hear about the supercharger not coming out!
Last i heard from Toyota and TRD and Eaton was an ETA of spring of 06. till then were in the dark. how much its gonna cost... who knows. how much toyota is gonna charge to install.. too much.
other things to consider. even tho i would love to S/C my tacoma and make it beastly.
10:1 compression and supercharger = low boost.
Unless you plan on replacing your pistons and possibly your rods. then who cares. but all of that is $$$$.$$
just my 2 cents
aaron
Good luck with your's. I'm not holding my breath, although they've been pretty good so far...
This splined component's job is to allow the driveline to shorten or lengthen as required by the wheelbase as the vehicle takes off or is stopping. All rear wheel drive vehicles have a splined slip joint either at their transmission or somewhere down the drive line after a carrier bearing. If this power transmitting spline does not move freely it will hang up. Usually, it with be felt on take away immediately from a stop sign or at the 1-2 shiftpoint.
As on the Tacoma, these external splined slip-joints joints are sealed by a lip seal or as in the newer Tacoma, with a rubber boot. Older Tacomas had a grease fitting on this spline shaft to keep it moving freely. The new Tacomas appear to be sealed for life.
After a few discussions with my local dealer it was time to take some affirmative action. I informed them that this problem was gradually getting worse and I strongly suspected the drive line slip-joint. I told them that unless they replaced the whole complete driveline, I would not be happy. I reminded them that this was a much cheaper solution than replacing the transmission, transfer case, and or the whole truck! They agreed. I inspected this slip joint before its removal and found that there was excessive clearance on the spline fit. I could move both male and female components 1/16" independently. This is not a good machining practice on driveline components. The resilient rubber mounting did not seem to be firm enough either. The two driveshafts, universals, carrier bearing, and splined slip-yoke are all one assembly and are replaced as a balance unit with a flange mount on either end!
Two days ago the whole driveline was replaced. I'm happy to report that the shifting and whole operation of the driveline/transmission are as smooth as silk! The spline fit has no excessive clearance and the rubber in the carrier bearing mount is stiffer (This keeps driveline vibration inline at take away under high torque load situations.).
I hope this information helps to solve your problem.
Good Luck.
http://www.kwmuth.com/products/kits/220-0243.htm
However, the real reason for not overfilling the tank is because it can cause liquid fuel to run into the vent lines, and into the charcoal canister and vapor valve. This can damage this fuel vapor recovery system and result in $$$ leaking out, not just fuel.
It doesn't pay to risk damage just for the convenience of delaying your next fillup by 50 miles.
Thanks,
James
Seems like it should be able to fix itself, but I await your answer.
Now, if you've been "stuffing" your tank, that's another story. One or two "stuffings", particularly if not frequent, may not cause irreversible damage, but continuing to do it is likely to.
You may get driveability problems and/or a MIL indication (trouble code). While it's not uncommon to have a whoosh of air from the tank if you've been in cold weather and the temps have increased greatly during the day, you may notice a great deal of fuel smell when you open the tank if the vapor recovery system has been compromised.
We're not talking about thousands of dollars here, maybe a hundred or two. The system is basically a vent system that vents the fuel vapors from your tank into a carbon cannister, instead of allowing them to escape to the atmosphere. When the engine is running, a valve directs the fumes from the cannister into the engine intake system, driven primarily by engine vaccuum. If the cannister gets saturated with liquid fuel, it's useless.
In any event, I don't think that the small convenience of delaying my fillup by a couple gallons is worth the risk to the system.
I haven't dug around to see where the cannister is in the engine compartment, but if you're really curious, you could locate it, dismount it, and see how heavy it feels. It should be filled with activated charcoal -not very heavy. If it feels like a container that weighs as much as one filled with fuel, it's probably contaminated. (Can also happen to some if they are submerged in water. -Use to be the case with GM units years ago.)
Bottom line- the manual tells you not to overfill for a reason.
While on the subject there's a good deal of info available at
http://api-ec.api.org/frontpage.cfm
and on fueling safety in particular:
http://api-ec.api.org/about/index.cfm?objectid=3CBF133A-DD3D-4A2E-945550BEEC34CE- 3F&method=display_body&er=1&bitmask=001002001000000000
I wanted only one vehicle to commute to work and haul music equipment. It had to be of high quality, above 25mpg highway fuel rating, and have adequate storage space (I assumed the ride would be reasonably quiet as are competitors models). My average fuel mpg range has been a disappointing 18-22; and this mpg rating with a 4-speed and manual transmission. I could live with that as the purchase price was very and would compensate for the extra expense. But the straw that broke the camels back has been the annoying wind noise. It is odd that I’ve not read about a consistent wind noise in the hundreds of internet forum postings and reviews. I contacted the dealer about the wind noise and he told me to bring it in which I did. They replaced the rear access door weather stripping. After this was done I noticed the noise persisted. They told me they would spend a couple of days with it and get to the bottom of it. They kindly gave me a loaner vehicle to drive. The timing for the inspection could not be better. The wind was gusting to 30 mph. The service manager said that they wanted to compare it with the access cab models they had in the lot. Without even driving those new models, the service manager noticed the wind noise. He called me and told me that they would not do anything about it because apparently it was a condition with all of the new trucks. He then said that the new access cab models on the lot were actually worse than mine! They said that there is a “vortex” between the cab and the box that produced this noise. On windy days it is so annoying that I cannot hear my kids from the back seat without them yelling at me. This is a problem that Toyota should address; an obvious design flaw in their access cab models; not in line with their great reputation. I recently rode in an extended cab Ford F150: a very quiet cab (although fuel mileage was unacceptable).
I sold a 1990 Ford Ranger with 277,000 miles on it for $500 before I purchased the Tacoma. I can honestly say that it was a much quieter ride than my new Tacoma, albeit a rougher, uncomfortable ride.
There are many good things about the Tacoma and I hate to part with it for those reasons: 1) handles excellently, 2) mechanically very high quality, 3) turning radius is unbelievably tight, 4) cargo area is perfect for my equipment, 5) drivers seat is very comfortable, 6) stereo is great sounding (on days without wind), and 7) great style in the Prerunner model.
A few other points of dissatisfaction: 1) clutch-pedal depression length is too long, 2) steering wheel tilt span is too short (should go higher for easier exit), 3) factory running boards are nearly non-functional, and 4) rear seats in access model are comfortable for dogs but not for kids (an inch more of space and padding would have gone very far in improving it).
Theft Information alert: My dealer says the tailgates on these trucks are getting stolen left and right. You can get a tailgate lock for about $40-50. The shell (no hardware, paint, emblems, ect) from Toyota is about $800. Maybe worth the little investment?
Thanks again.
a