Chevy C/K Series Maintenance and Repair

prieve · August 2005

Clean the throttle body intake, it is most likely dirty and is causing the throttle body to stick or surge. Otherwise have your fuel injectors cleaned, check for replacement.

prieve · August 2005

I have a 1995 1500 Z71. I am experiencing a very soft brake pedal. I have bled the breaks, all mechanical brake parts are in good working order and the pads and drums are in good shape. I have tried everything including talking to and having a mechanic look at it. I am considering replacing the rubber brake lines due to wear and possible stretching. Has anyone ever tried this???????

sbrown5 · August 2005

I just got my truck, and the brake lights stay on. Does anyone know how to rewire the truck so my brake lights work. I had to take the bulbs out because it kept blowing the fuse. Who ever had it before me used a camper on it and i think did all of the wiring himself. So now it is no good. Everything else works great totally new engine and tranny. HELP!!!

darr47 · August 2005

I just bought a 1986 Chevy Custom Deluxe with a 350, 5.7 liter. Its in excellant condition. Rubber moulding looks new along with paint,interior etc.. Runs so smooth you cant hear the engine running. Its got Tow package,almost new tires, nice rims, and with only 70,000 orginal miles.It was stored in gargae all these years and I got it for 3,800 . I thought it was a great deal, is it ?
I know blue book shows the price to be around 2440 but this seems to low considering the trucks condition. The engine does show some rust but nothing is wrong with the engine. So did I get a good deal or did I pay to much ?

Darr47

robertu4 · August 2005

Hi George,

I had the same problem with my 1982 S10 Blazer. Turned out to be a pinched brake line. You can't tell looking at it because those lines are two in one. In other words there is a metal tube/line inside the outer brake line. You should maybe try swapping the line out. those lines/hoses are not expensive.

Best of Luck.

Oh and you should go ahead and replace the brake shoes since they were put under so much stress......

Robert

teba · August 2005

I replaced the master cylinder because i was getting a soft pedal, pedal going to floor and a hissing noise. The pedal is hard now and solid but the hissing noise is still there, what did I miss?

dbartz · August 2005

Need help in tightening up a loose tilt steering column on a 1988 Chevy pickup. No matter what position it's in, the upper steering column has tons of play in it. Any instructions or pictures in regards to taking it apart.

plcattle · September 2005

Anybody know the sequence to turn OFF the automatic door locks for '05 2500HD?

Owners manual gives sequence for alternate settings (certain speed on manual shift and locks when placed in gear for auto trans) but does not instruct on how to turn those things off and of course Chevy dealership service dep't has no clue but would be real happy for me to bring it in and waste half my life in their waiting area.

Thanks in advance for sharing the info!

ririder · September 2005

My 94 Chevy CK Pickup 6 cly 4.3 suddenly will not start. Both injectors will not spray. Gas is pumping. Spark is fine. A noid light will not light up on the injectors. The 'Check Engine' light will not come on so we cannot get a code. We pulled the 'Check Engine' bulb and it is good. Checked all fuses, all were good. Replaced the Injector control module with no result. When gas is poured into the carb engine will run. Not sure where to go from here. Thanks for any help.

mp376 · September 2005

We have a 1992 Chevrolet C1500 pickup (bought used) and it doesn't appear that anyone has ever changed the fuel filter because it is rusted in place. Any tips on how to get the rust cleared to replace the filter?

gntar · September 2005

I am having the exact same problem on a 1988 5.7L 1/2 Ton. Fuel to the TB but none to the injectors. Will not start. I'll keep looking for a solution. If I find out, I'll post it. Let me know if you make any progress. Good Luck!

gntar · September 2005

Ok, I posted earlier that I was having the same problem. Well I just figured it out. Biased by a recent fuel problem I was blaming the fuel system. My problem may be a little different than yours however. I check for spark and had none. I replaced the Ignition Control Module (flat black device with three connectors that sits on top of the distributor and under the rotor). Apparently, if this device fails, you won't get any spark or any signal for the injectors to spit. I had no engine codes to tell me this was bad.

I also checked the fuses, there is one for the ignition and one for the injectors. Good Luck.

ririder · September 2005

Thanks. We have found that the gas pump does not come on when the ignition is turned to the 'on' position and when I crank it it only gets 15psi. I will be pulling out the pump that I put in 1 1/2 years ago as well as change the fuel filter.

ririder · September 2005

Mine is the same way. I am figuring that I may have to replace the line also. I shot it up with liquid wrench and am working it. Buy one of those special wrenches that are made to fit over the gas line. You will get a much better grasp on the nut.

chas17 · September 2005

I could have written this first thread myself... same year, same truck, same engine, same problem! :sick: I had the TBI rebuilt and injectors cleaned and flowed. I re-installed it and the engine started well with hi-idle (normal I guess as the ECU must re-learn the changed TPS). Anyway, after 15 minutes of run time I shut it down. When I tried to restart the injectors would not fire. My fuel pressure is 10 psi pre-filter (within spec), and the filter is brand new. I can add fuel manually in the TBI and the engine will fire, so the spark is fine. I have added a new MAP sensor but have not considered the ignition control module. Would that be a good next choice based on the other reply's in this thread?

captainshapely · September 2005

Hello,
I have a problem with my 97 chevy 4X4( 4.3 l V6). Sometimes (about 1out of 4) when i hit my turn signal or touch my brake my radio will shut off for about 4 seconds and then come back on. It does not lose memory, so the power must not be completly lost, right? just looking for suggestions. Thanks for you help.

captainshapely

ririder · September 2005

Is the fuel pressure really within spec? 10 psi sounds low. I'll have to look at my book. Check the pressure at the carb with key to 'on' position, then also when turning it over. What are your readings?

snailtrack · September 2005

have to hold peddle down to start then came to a stop sign and it died, held peddle down it started, put in gear and it died, will start, runs rough will not drive when put in gear.
whats going on?

ga81280 · September 2005

My 94 CK 4.3 will die while going down the road. I have to use starting fluid to get it started again (sometimes it's very hard to get it re-started and takes several tries). I've changed the fuel filter, changed the fuel pump, and have had the Ingnition Control module checked and it checked out OK. After replacing the pump and filter, it has still died while running. It seems like a fuel problem, could it be a flakey Ign Cntrl Mod??? Any other ideas???

prong2002 · September 2005

I have an 1988 chevy silverado 350 4x4 and I have the same problem...the injectors won't spit. I'm getting the same symptom that I got the last time. I don't have a check engine light. According to other research on the web this means either the computer is not getting power or it is fryed. I'm going to try to reset the computer tomorrow by unplugging the power for 10 minutes. But, I think I'll be replacing the computer again. I don't know what is frying it if it is going bad. I just got the thing started for the first time in like a year. I've basically given up on it. If I wouldv'e simply cleaned the TBI in the first place I wouldn't have this problem. I started screwing with changing things. I changed the timing chain, part of the tbi, egr, temp control on the manifold, starter (which was bad), alternator (which was bad), battery cables, serpentine belt, spark control module. All to fix the problem with the black smoke. Of course, the black smoke is not there anymore. I just have to diagnose this no gas problem. It is getting too frustrating. Luckily, it is not my primary vehicle.

chas17 · October 2005

Thanks for the note back and sorry for the delay in responding. The Chiltons book I have spec's the fuel pressure at 9-13 with a deadhead at 15 psi. Remember this is a TBI engine. I decided to replace the fuel pump and sock anyway, and after a 1/2 days work found no difference in pressure with the new pump. Measured at the throttle body I get 10 psi. I also recently replaced the ignition control module as it was recommended to me as a possible cause of the problem. Now it seems like I am just throwing new parts at this no-start problem! I can still start the engine by spilling a bit of fuel in the throttle body. The noid light test continues to be good at the injectors, so they are pulsing. I don't have an oscilloscope and cannot measure the pulse width or amplitude. Any last ideas? I hate to call for the hook! :mad:

gggman · October 2005

I have a 1987 C-10 with a 350 c.i. TBI California mode with 135,000 miles.It was running perfect until I stopped at a light.The engine died and would not restart for 15 minute,.It would turn over tho.Later it would start, but not run under load and you have to feather the throttle. Would not idle or run more than half throttle.I put a rebuild kit in the TBI but it did not include a fuel regulator. I cannot find one either.I also replaced the fuel filter under the cab.Fuel pump was replaced 3,000 miles ago.Distributor cap and plug wires look good also.No visible vacuum leaks.Fuel pressure to the TBI is good and there seems to be good spray from the injectors but I really don't know how it is supposed to look.Any advice or even a good guess would be greatly appreciated, Thanx to anyone who takes time to read this. gggman

jcr2 · October 2005

Is there a procedure or a kit to use for greasing this shaft. I would like some help on how its done..Appreciate any feedback

xwesx · October 2005

Might be a bad radiator cap. If the cap is not maintaining the proper pressure in the system, it could be tripping the sensor. Other options... a faulty sensor or wiring.

bdox · October 2005

About that fuel filter.......... New means new. New doesn't necessarily mean good.

saintc · October 2005

Old school is no good. I read this a bit ago about bleeding brakes, and it makes a lot of sense. Old school is having someone pump and hold the brake pedal while you release some fluid into a container. Here is the problem...the brake pedal pushes a shaft or plunger...and this item travels a pretty regular distance everytime you use the brakes. When you pedal pump bleed, the pedal will be pushes further..sometimes all the way to the floor. That means this shaft will travel further into the seals. Make sense? Often what happens is that the exposed portion of this shaft will get pits on it..or stuck on debris of some sort...and when this "dirty" area of the shaft gets forned into the seal...you can get seal damage. Anyway...makes sense to me...and there are much better ways to bleed.

1.) Pressure...you buy a device that fits securely onto your master cylinder reservoir. It puts fluid under pressure, forcing it down the brakes lines. Put a hose and container to the brake screw...crack it open..and here comes the fluid. The great thing about this method is that the container keeps supplying brake fluid so the reservoir does not run out. The down side....You need to buy special adapters for your specific reservoir. You need to "collect" into another container on the other end.

2.) Vacuum...you buy a device that creates a vacuum at the brake fitting...which "sucks" brake fluid through the lines. MightyVac is a good example of this. The good...one container to catch the fluid...vacuum can be used for other things...the hose stays attached to the fitting better under vacuum then it does under pressure. The bad...you have to keep a CLOSE eye on the reservoir and keep it filled.

Both methods are so good...you dont 'bleed" your brakes...you replace all the fluid with fresh, clean, new, brake fluid.

wagz · October 2005

86 cd 10 runs great / then stalls and will not restart.
will turn over and run for a few seconds but then dies again.
great shape with 77000 miles.
any ideas?
Thanks,
Jeff

sick95troop · October 2005

I am purchasing an 82 Silverado that I was told stopped running when it was run out of gas once. A couple buddies tell me that it's very possible that it just lost the prime on the fuel lines, and that it is tricky to fix this problem and get it going again. Does anyone have any thoughts on diagnosing and/or correcting this problem? Could the tank be pressurized w/ air to get the fuel moving up to the pump? Any help is greatly appreciated--THANKS!! Matt

lq1 · November 2005

I have a 93 1 ton Chevy dually 4sp O.D. auto trans that doesn't shift properly.
1. it has all 4 gears and reverse
2. all shift points are near red line on tach
3. no unusuall noises
4. Engine is 6.5 Turbo diesle (runs great)
5. trans model is 4L80E
6. no slipping of any gear
7. ATF & filter change recent

With these symptoms what should I look at as a possible fix? The shift points are in high RPM's, but thal gears work, even the 4th O.D.

Thanks for any hints you can give.

Louis

mamas2 · November 2005

we have just spent a week changing the fuel tank, fuel filter, fuel pump, and all three gas lines and now it won't start. it won't fire. what do we need to do next.

xwesx · November 2005

I am not sure if this year is electronically or vacuum controlled, but if vacuum, I'd check for a leak in the hosing.

xwesx · November 2005

start by verifying you are getting fuel... is this carb'ed or FI?

85chevysb · November 2005

hey, this sounds like it might possibly be a a problem with your ignition coil. it quite typical of a coil to fail once it gets hot but when it cools back down will work again till it heats back up.

bowler · November 2005

I have two chevy trucks a 93 1500 4x4 and a 95 2500 2x2.......both are having similar problems.....and there are two common factors that appear in both...

the transmission will not shift out of 2nd to 3 or 4th...
but when this happens both vehicles have the ANTI-BRAKE light indicator lite on the dash but when the light goes out they both start shifting again.

willcg · December 2005

Wondering if anyone can help...

Got a problem with the tail lights on a 1990 Chevy K1500 that started about 1.5 weeks ago. Brake lights and turn signals are also affected. Here are the symptoms:

Headlight switch on: tail lights/brake lights not working, turn signals (front or rear) not working. Turn signals blink one time and then quit.

Headlight switch off: brake lights and turn signals work if not used at same time. When the tranny is in reverse, the tail lights come on. Back-up lights do not work.

Using turn signals with brake pedal depressed causes alternating blinking of tail lights.

I replaced the headlight switch on Sunday thinking that may be contributing to the problem -- no good (also did this because about a month ago, I noticed a small wisp of smoke coming from the headlight switch. Only saw it once, and no problems occurred until the current issue.).

One other thing to mention: Several months ago I had to remove the bed. A trailer light wiring harness had been spliced into the rear light wiring harness. All wires were pulled apart accidentally. I re-connected the rear wiring using standard splicing connectors and everything worked fine until last week. Not sure if this is contributing to the issue. I did not reconnect trailer wiring harness.

Would like to try and fix this myself. Thanks for any advice.

WC

xwesx · December 2005

It sounds to me like you definitely have some wires crossed. What is causing it? Most likely something related to the bed removal that is just now beginning to manifest. Perhaps rubbing that has now worked though some of the wire sheathing? Maybe a problem related to the area you spliced earlier like corrosion or moisture causing intermittent arching. If you are able, try tracing the wiring from the tail lamps back to the distribution point to look for damage.

cattybillu · December 2005

Will the front end suspension parts off a 1978,79 Camaro, fit on 1980 c10 to lower the front end and help handling? Any ideas.

liu1 · December 2005

hello eveybody I have a 1993 chevy van rebuilt transmission 4L80E automatic 1 year ago. Now trans slips from 1 to 2nd , brake indictor light goes on and off. (antilock light) and slips from 15-30 miles an hour when I step on the gas. I had the garage replace the fuel pump and strainer in the gas tank, they had to drop the gas tank to get to it. sounds like similar problem can you explain how to solve problem? Email me at my268inc@hotmail.com Thanks, Liu

trickster · December 2005

Have you put any thought into the fuel pressure regulator, if you have one? How about a new gas cap, or the ruel pump relay? Just a thought.

I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.

trickster · December 2005

Diesel engines usually have a bleed valve somewhere close to the injectors, or before it splits off to the injectors. Like bleeding brakes, you need 2 people to do this. While attempting to start the engine, open the bleed valve, and then close it before the engine stops cranking or you will suck even more air into the system. Repeat untill the engine starts. If it does not, then you may have to bleed each individual injector.

blancodavis · December 2005

I am having the same problem on my 93 2500 truck if you get any solutions please let me know. My truck has been in the shop for 6 months and i need to get it out. The transmission is sliping when the brake indicator light goes on. When it is off it works fine. Please E-mail sdcreto@hotmail.com

KCRam · December 2005

As mentioned in the post box and the Rules of the Road (link in left margin) we specifically request that you not post your email address in posts. It benefits others when answers are shared here in the discussion, and it prevents malicious use of your email address.

kcram - Pickups Host

cattybillu · December 2005

Hello, I put a message on Dec.12(7:40am).The message nr. is 187.Nobody answer me back.Is no answer? Please just tell me if you know what I am talking about or not.

2rublu · January 2006

Did you get this issue resolved? I just replaced my engine and clutch, and the slave cylinder. I'm not able to "bleed" it. What's the trick?

Thank you.

mkjj123 · January 2006

I hope this is the right forum for this question. My appologies if it is not.

We have a 2004 3500 with dual gas tanks. It seems that noone (dealer, mechanics) can tell us how the tanks actually feed the engine. Do they feed equally, in that if both are filled they should empty at about the same rate? Will it cause a problem if one is filled and the other is let run dry? Does the fuel system require that each tank have fuel?
We typically fill each tank equally; 10 gallons in each, or fill both at the same time. This is probably the best thing to do but it would be nice if we knew what was actually going on in there.

Any insight on this would be greatly appreciated.

Regards

my7007 · January 2006

Hi to all, just wondering if anyone ever heard of a humming noise when braking with my chevy 3500 dump. Could it be ABS? I have not experianced anything like it before. The truck is a 99' 4x4 d.r.w. 46k miles. Thanks

hotrod80z · January 2006

Hi everybody i am new to the site. I was wondering If anyone has encountered the same problem. My truck is a 1996 2500 HD, Vortec 350. The truck sometimes will not start after a rainy day. I am sure It is an ignition related problem, If I ad fuel manually or even "quick start" it has no effect. It has recent plugs and wires, and will try to start but just won't catch. If I leave it for a day or so It will fire up first try like nothing happened.

cms07 · January 2006

Hi, I drive a 1984 K10. About 4-5 months ago I put new rear brakes on my truck. In the past 2 months there has been a high pitched squealing when I step on the brakes, but the problem seems to go away after a while of driving. I took the tires of and checked the front and rear brakes, and they seemed fine so I turned the rear drums, yet when I put them back on it didn't help. Does anyone have an idea on what I should do, Thanks.

kevtech · January 2006

Remove steering wheel (will need a puller), tighten torx screws behind turn signal cancel cam may want to apply thread locker to screws one at a time. (three screws if memory serves) get access to 2 of the three screws by moving turnsignal lever like you are turning on blinker.

lyter · January 2006

Chevy Diesel 2500HD..I had a heater core failure while using the unit. As a result the entire climate control system is contaminated with a horrific anti-freeze smell. AF also leaked on the carpet. The core has been replaced as well as the core doors and surrounding components, delivery ducts and carpet sanitizedall for no good. The AF smell is still there although not as bad. Ive used every odor eliminator on the market that I know ofeven the new one clean airall to no avail. Anyone have any ideas on smell removal?

Chevy C/K Series Maintenance and Repair

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