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Chevy C/K Series Maintenance and Repair

1235789

Comments

  • topfitmomtopfitmom Member Posts: 2
    My husband has a 1994 Chevy Silverado. When you start the truck, it makes a knocking noise coming from the blower. It will knock for about a minute and stop. When you turn the truck off, it does it again. Does anyone know what is causing this and how to fix it?
  • reddog5reddog5 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 97'C/K 1500 4x4 with the vortec. 200K miles and the same problem. I wore out the starter trying to start it cold. I have replaced everything you have plus the fuel pump and still the same problem, until I bought a quality cap with the brass pins inside. This takes care of the problem for about 2000 miles. Seems like I am getting moisture inside the cap somehow. Hope this helps.
  • flascot45flascot45 Member Posts: 1
    I know this post is almost a year old, but I have a 72 C-10 and used NADA by going thru their classic cars link. It gave me a low, average and high retail value.
  • johnson12johnson12 Member Posts: 1
    Lost low beams about 4 months ago and took to dealer for them to check out. Was informed that multi-function switch was bad. Still have daytime running lights, but also lost high beams about three weeks ago. Before pulling steering wheel, is there a fuse or link somewhere that should be checked first? Thanks !
  • rene01rene01 Member Posts: 12
    Hello,
    I have a 74' Chevy pickup & I'm going to buy a reman. 350 motor plus tranny for it. My question(s)are: What will I need to do/buy to get the truck to fire right up? I also want it to run quieter, or at least sound quieter & not like a Harley coming down the road. Not that I mind Harleys... just not when it's a pickup. :)
    Any & all suggestions are greatly appreciated.
    Rene' :shades:
  • billyb2billyb2 Member Posts: 1
    My sons 87 chey 305 auto pick up
    Starts fine then when you shut it off and try to restart
    the truck won't start again, cracks,
    but no fuel coming out of the injectors.

    What is going on ?
  • bobbysimonebobbysimone Member Posts: 2
    i had same problem it was a coroaded coil wire. just pull and clean see if it works
  • bobbysimonebobbysimone Member Posts: 2
    i have a 1992 g20 chevy van and all of the dash gages quit working help.
  • paladenpaladen Member Posts: 1
    Sounds like the vent door solenoid that's located between the firewall and the blower motor..My 1993 was doing it also. It's quite a feat to replace it so I just cut the electrical wire that feeds it. I think it only effects the A/C when you set the 'MAX' to recuiculate the air inside the cab. I havn't been able to notice any differ :confuse: ence except the noise is gone.
  • jrpurselljrpursell Member Posts: 1
    I replaced the Wiper Motor in my 1994 C1500 last summer. About 2 months ago (Winter time in Michigan) I started having a problem with my wipers not returning to their "park" position and not stopping. I usually end up putting the truck in Neutral, shutting it off, and starting it back up at traffic lights, which stops the wipers. This only seems to be an issue when it's below 40 degrees F outside.

    I've heard that some relays in the wiper motor have bad solders on the board. Is this my problem? and if so, what do I specifically need to solder?
  • jnealjneal Member Posts: 247
    Rene', you seem to be inexperienced at swapping engines etc so the best thing I can tell you is to enlist some knowledgable help.
    You need someone to assist you that knows how to bring up oil pressure before firing the engine, how to check/set initial timing, how to properly break-in the new cam etc.
    In short, you furnish the grunt power and let them furnish the knowledge to do the job properly.
    Good luck
  • rickorirenerickorirene Member Posts: 3
    For all you with a starting problem, I will relate mine. I have a 1989 1500 Scottsdale with a 5.0 litre engine. Last Saturday, it would not start. After calling for a tow, the driver "wiggled some wires" and it started. This week, it would start or not at various times. Lots of people had lots of advice.
    Anyway, I replaced the fuel pump relay. No dice. I checked the fuse, the temperature sensor. No dice. I checked the plugs, wires and distributor - bad!. These were replaced. The truck started. The next day, 3 starts and it stopped at an intersection. Tow it back and try the fuel filter. It started. Now, I will run it awhile tomorrow and see what happens and keep you posted. You guys with the "it just won't start" know that when you find the problem, hopefully it is fixed. The yes it will, no it won't is very frustrating. Other than that, when it runs,it runs very smooth without any smoke, etc.
  • mblack3mblack3 Member Posts: 10
    could you tell me where the crankshaft sensor is located on 1996 gmc pickup?
  • dispencer1dispencer1 Member Posts: 489
    I have an '86 Silverado 4wd short bed pickup. The AC works great however it works on the vent setting as well as the AC ones. Does anyone have a fix for this? Thanks - Karl Spence
  • topfitmomtopfitmom Member Posts: 2
    THANKS FOR THE INFORMATION. CAN YOU TELL ME WHERE TO FIND THE WIRE THAT FEEDS IT. PLEASE EXPLAIN IN DETAIL. :blush:
  • txeng66txeng66 Member Posts: 1
    I JUST BOUGHT THIS TRUCK 4 WEEKS AGO AND I JUST BLEW THE MOTOR ON IT 2 DAYS AGO I AM GOING TO SWAP IT FROM A 305 TO A 350, EVERY THING ON THE TRUCK IS ORIGINAL IS TEAR ANYTHING MAJOR THAT IS NOT GOING TO BOLT UP
  • nellie27nellie27 Member Posts: 1
    I have an 86 chevy c-30 it has a 5.7 and I am having the same problem. My truck starts when it wants but right now it just wont start. I have replaced the distributer, plugs, wires and I dont know if it has anything to do with it but the key is broken inside the key hole. Is there some kind of security for this vehicle. It turns it just wont start, like it doesnt have spark. Im stumped.
  • jnealjneal Member Posts: 247
    If the ignition key is broken off how are you attempting to start the vehicle??
  • oberusaloberusal Member Posts: 1
    Having a weird problem with my truck. When first started it runs great, plenty of power. After it warms up, the idle gets a little rough (but not too bad). However, the truck seems to strain when accelerating from say 30mph to 60mph. If I try to accelerate up a hill (1/4 mile or so) the engine temp rises from the nominal 160F up to 210F. Get off the pedal and it cools back down. Outside temperature (0F to 95F) does not effect it!

    Truck has been tuned up (plugs, wires, cap, rotor, timing, airfilter), new water pump, new fan clutch, new belt and idler. None of this effected the performance.

    Is this the sign of a catalytic converter problem? I was thinking of changing the O2 sensor, EGR (for the rough idle) and maybe the CAT. Just didn't want to start shotgunning things.

    Truck has 120K miles on it, and everything is original (sensors and stuff).

    Any help or clues greatly appreciated.
  • rickorirenerickorirene Member Posts: 3
    This is a continuing saga of my attempts to get my 89 Chev 1500 running with a 5.0 litre engine. I thought I had it licked with the fuel filter, but it stalled at a traffic light and would not restart. Finally, I found a mechanic that listened! I was at the stage where any more work required equipment I did not have. Anyway, it was the ignition module, a little box under the distributor. It was beginning to fail and this is how it acts up. As it warms up, various parts start to fail. The mechanic had a $6,000 tester for this thing and when it was tested, wow. For me, the part was $114 Canadian. No problems for 3 days now. Good luck with yours.
  • phantasamphantasam Member Posts: 1
    I Lost my only set of keys for my 1983 Chevrolet pickup. I was wondering If there was any way to get a spare set made using my VIN number or any other way. Also If there is no way, I do own another 1983 pickup of the same make and model, would it be easy to remove the steering column or the ignition? Any help would be greatly appreciated
  • tlcluvstruckstlcluvstrucks Member Posts: 1
    My 1994 chevy C/K 3500 series diesel 4X4 truck chevy will run fine for a week to a couple months, then one day it just dies while driving!! Most of the time it will re-start, and sometimes I have to wait 30 mins+ to start it, and sometimes it won't start at all!!! I put alot of cash into this truck and no one can tell me whats the problem, please help!!! I replaced fuel filter, injectors, battery alternator(all bad) and one of the fuel pumps, guys can anybody tell me the secret???? :cry::cry:
  • disco2disco2 Member Posts: 4
    The horn just suddenly stopped working, wouldnt you know that I have to go for an inspection soon, I have checked the fuses and everything else obvious- SOMEONE HELP ME!!!! :confuse: :confuse: :confuse: :confuse: :confuse:
  • disco2disco2 Member Posts: 4
    The horn just suddenly stopped working, wouldnt you know that I have to go for an inspection soon, I have checked the fuses and everything else obvious- SOMEONE HELP ME!!!!
  • spechspech Member Posts: 1
    Hey there, we have a 2001 silverado 2500HD deisel 4x4, has anyone had there rear extension housing crack. We did, the dealer said it was due to a bad u- joint.The bill is $2500.00, so I went looking and found some tsb reports that show the problem. But am told they are of no good to me. I was told they were only for the dealers, so they would know how to fix the problem. Is this true?? I tried to argue when they told me that the tsb was posted back in 2004. Apparently this is only a problem in 4x4's.
  • jnealjneal Member Posts: 247
    Put a vacumn gauge on a good source on the intake manifold, run engine at 1500-2000 rpm after warmed up and observe reading on gauge. If it is the cat you will see a steady drop in the reading as the engine runs and backpressure builds up in the cat.
  • rickorirenerickorirene Member Posts: 3
    After my experiences, have you had the ignition control module tested? If not, start there. Apparently, when they start to fail, they are intermittent and have various engine speeds at which they operate. One speed (rpm) can fail while the others are okay. Good luck!
  • neusepirateneusepirate Member Posts: 2
    I currently have 235/75/15 tires on my Chevy C-10, the speedo. is about 5 mph off. I need new tires so I have decided to buy a larger tire to off-set the speedo. problem and give the truck a "beefier" look. I have looked at 265/75/15 which will solve the speedo. problem, but, all I have been able to find were "all-terrain" tires that really do not suit my needs on a 2 wheel drive truck, price is an issue also, any suggestions?
  • gmjunkiegmjunkie Member Posts: 1
    I can’t get my bi levels to turn off running the heat and air conditioning. What causes this?

    My cruise control doesn’t respond as I engage it. Don’t know if it’s vacuum or electrical. I like to trouble shoot it and find out why it takes so long to engage or sometime doesn’t want to respond at all, this problem is intermediate.

    Can I change from TBI to Fuel Injection by just changing the manifold or do I have to do other changes to it. I have 188899 mile on it and soon looking to rebuild it.

    Thanks
  • clark15clark15 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1995, 2500, automatic transmission 4x4...with a 454 engine 105,000 miles and it is stuck in park.
    Yesterday, I was able to get the floor gear into nuetral, and then it went into drive, but today eveything is locked up. Any ideas?
  • joeexeterjoeexeter Member Posts: 1
    The fuel pump on my '98 chevy c/k 1500 died a couple weeks ago. 115,000 miles on truck. Pump was loud from the day I purchased truck new. For those of you who also have a loud fuel pump, a day or two before it died I noticed the tone of the pump changed. Also, the engine wasn't cranking over on first rev. (I usually put ignition key to on for a few seconds to pressurize gas system before turning key to start - engine alway starts after 1 rev). Anyways, I had to replace the whole fuel pump assembly. A couple days after replacing it the gas tank level indicator/gauge started to continuously fluctuate rapidly about +/- 1/32". There's no fluctuation when the tank is full. Also, when the truck is first started the indicator needle goes hard to the right then back to level. Anyone ever see these problems with the gas gauge or sending unit? Fixes? I'd hate to drop the gas tank again if it's not necessary. Thanks.
  • dchase1dchase1 Member Posts: 15
    GOT CODE PO340 PO341 REPLACED CAMSHAFT SENSOR.REPLACED ROTOR.CLEARED CODE.DROVE FOR 10 MILES RAN GOOD.SHUT OFF RESTARTED NO CODE.STARTED NEXT MORNING PO340 PO341 APPEARED AGAIN.OH YEAH BOTH TIMES PO340 HAS TWO ENTRYS.CHECKED WIRING.ITS OK.RAN GOOD FOR 3 DAYS WITH LIGHT ON.NOW WORSE THAN BEFORE REPLACEMENT.RUNS ROUGH.IDLES BAD IN DRIVE.GOOD IN PARK.RUNS GOOD WHEN YOU PUNCH IT.AROUND 60 DOES SOMETHING.NOT SURE IF MISFIRE OR WHAT.I WANT MY KICKASS VORTEC 350 BACK.ANY CLUES?
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,756
    If the voltage to the camshaft sensor is good, then perhaps a knock sensor or the crankshaft position sensor? It certainly sounds like a timing issue, though a vacuum problem could also be the culprit.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • dchase1dchase1 Member Posts: 15
    the camshaft position sensor controls the timing in combination with the crankshaft sensor.the only codes im getting are for the camshaft sensor.po340 twice and po 341 .i'm thinking maybe i got a defective camshaft sensor.im gonna take it out tommorrow and try another one.
  • quantum1quantum1 Member Posts: 6
    It sounds like the brake switch is not working correctly. That will keep it from up shifting correctly and kick the A.B.S light on
  • quantum1quantum1 Member Posts: 6
    check the ignition switch they are known to do that
  • quantum1quantum1 Member Posts: 6
    you have one injector that is shorted out. If one shorts they will all shut down.
  • quantum1quantum1 Member Posts: 6
    try blocking off the return line maybe you have a fuel pressure regulator sticking.
  • quantum1quantum1 Member Posts: 6
    do a stall test on the converter. The stall is maximum rpm will let the engine go. It sound like you have a bad torque converter
  • quantum1quantum1 Member Posts: 6
    The hood is not sealing up by the cab and water is getting on and in the dist cap. Replace cap and hood seal.
  • myxjsmyxjs Member Posts: 3
    you mentioned the fuel pressure regulator, i have a 1985 jaguar xjs, and i am told i have bad fuel pressure regulators, i was wondering if you could tell me how to test these. zanecrockett@hotmail.com
  • dchase1dchase1 Member Posts: 15
    still cant figure it out.it is a cng bi fuel vehicle which makes it more confusing.bi fuel does not work .connections look good.brown wire going to alternative fuel box is broken where the two connectors go into box.hooked it up between the two connectors ran great for 20 miles but bi fuel doesnt work.shut it off .on the way home.ran real bad.took sensor back.installed another one.replaced distributor cap.could my distribitor be bad.is there suppossed to be play vertically where the rotor mounts?bi fuel was not working before problem.wire has not been hooked up since i had the truck.recently replaced driveplate.ran good afterwards.replaced starter.recent alternator.new ignition relay.oil change,fuel filter.still get code po 340 po340 po341.what is involved in the camshaft sensor circut?could a bad fuel pump relay cause this.is my computer fried?could just spark plugs cause this?vehicle sat unstarted for 3 months befoe driveplate was replaced.fuel pump?DIRTY TANK?fuel INJECTORS?CMon gotta be something stupid its a chevy not a ford.always ran good before.only has 60000 on it.idles fine,drives bad.lacking power.sucks on hills.i know its some electronic crap.gotta be.after you disconnect battery or clear code runs great for 10 miles.hit about 50 or 60 on slight incline i here a thump/backfire/miss not sure light goes on no matter what after 10 miles.driving me nuts.any one have similar exp. or know what is going on?helppppp.why does the camshaft sensor get no signal.i cant sleep my chevy is driving me nuts
  • dchase1dchase1 Member Posts: 15
    try horn relay in fuse box under hood.
  • dchase1dchase1 Member Posts: 15
    try brake relay in underhood fuse box
  • dchase1dchase1 Member Posts: 15
    u have to have it reprogrammed by the dealer
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,756
    There has to be a sensor (separate from cam sensor) on that thing that detects the knock and tells the engine to retard the timing for pulling hills, acceleration, etc. I am still betting on it as being the culprit. Maybe I am way off base here - I have never fiddled with anything so new as a '97. :mad:
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • c130efec130efe Member Posts: 2
    Quick question...I have a 94 K1500 with a 305. The engine is shot and I was thinking of replacing it with a 350. Can anyone think of any issues or complications to doing this? Thanks
  • dchase1dchase1 Member Posts: 15
    wouldnt i get a code when i scanned it telling me it was the knock sensor.the sensors arent cheap.it does make sense,but the truck runs fine right after the idle is relearned for about ten miles.then all the bs starts.lack of power,vibration while at idle.could this be a dexcool issue?i dont know.something electronic i think,hard to figure out.all wiring seems ok.wierd ver wierd.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,756
    Well, I have had to replace the knock sensor twice in my '96 Subaru, and not once did it pull a code for it. It always came up with the crank & cam sensor codes - and always in tandem.

    I am not saying it IS the knock sensor, it is just that the electronic timing controls do require constant input about retarding/advancing to meet current conditions and the knock sensor is one of the primary controls of that operation. I think they also depend on the temperature sensors, the mass airflow sensor, and the 02 sensor(s). The 02 sensors, if failing, always pulled codes on my Subaru and the one time I had a problem with the MAS it caused stalling (w/ no code) - not idle issues (in other words, it ran perfectly until it stalled at a stoplight, etc).

    I am not familiar with "dexcool." If the truck does run fine for a while after a reset, then perhaps something is causing the timing to artificially advance. It is apparent to me that the problem does not lie with the cam sensor itself... it is either not receiving a regular signal from the position marker on the cam or it is receiving bogus input from another sensor. Unfortunately OBDII does not always isolate the problem correctly and these electronic machines are really a nightmare to ferret out by traditional means. :mad:
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • dchase1dchase1 Member Posts: 15
    i think im gonna try the knock sensor zwesx.its 40 bucks.but its cheaper than someone else throwing parts in my truck.from everything i have learned of knock sensors,it seems it is the most likely to go,cause it could have got damaged towing or on a lift.i believe the knock sensor is somewhat fragile.what i want to know is could a bad knock sensor cause the camshaft position sensor to malfunction.at least if it doesnt work i will know its not that rt.sound like a good theory.the other sensors have something to do with timing also,but i do like the knock sensor theory.it seems the most likely.do you think the knock sensor will solve the camshaft position sensor issue.basically the codes say that the camshaft position sensor is malfuntioning and that it is out of range which is 4 - 5 volts.no codes for high or low imput.po340 po340 po341.sinceit says camshaft position sensor circuit,i guess my question is the knock sensor involved in that circut.
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