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Chevy C/K Series Maintenance and Repair
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Comments
What could possibly possess you to put a spacer in?
What did you think it was gonna gain you?
Today's vehicles get really irritated when you go mucking around with them. So much that the computer starts to have fits.
The throttle cable has nothing to do with the idle. That is controlled by the computer. You have messed with the air intake and changed what the computer is reading.
There is a clutch cyl, and I cannot determine exactly what kind of linkage goes from pedal to clutch cyl. Can this be adjusted? There is still proper amt of fluid in reservoir.
Previously, and intermittently, there has been a failure to start which MAY have been related (i.e. the engine won't turn over if the clutch is not fully depressed; sometimes, even if the clutch IS fully depressed, it won't start, but the "fix" seems to be to open the hood and slam it shut again, suggesting that SOMETHING, SOMEWHERE is loose, or just on the verge of not being quite right.)
Suggestions as to cause of problem? Is this something I can repair myself, or does it require special tools, lots of strength, or lots of time?
Thanks!
:sick:
Appreciate any thoughts/suggestions re: diagnosing and fixing this!
:confuse:
Even with those low miles, have you kept the joints (tie rods, control arm bushings, etc) lubed regularly?
As for the no-start, check your battery cables, solenoid, and cable to the starter to make sure none are corroded or have slightly loose connections. This can easily result in a periodic and "random" no start.
I have to say there wasn't a lot of shifting going on during the drive- mostly freeway/highway, although that may be neither here nor there. The truck does have about 270K miles on it, and while the engine has been rebuilt, I do not know about the tranny in its former life. Clutch has always felt solid, though- no hint of problem. Your assessment may be right on- the clutch feels as if there is a little less resistance than formerly, but nothing like blocked hydraulics, which would feel hard.
I guess I'm pretty much trying to decide whether to have it towed somewhere to get fixed, or if there is anything else I can do to deduce the true nature of the problem. I like to be pretty sure of the issue before presenting to the mechanic- forewarned is forearmed, as they say!
Is it possible that whacking on the tranny case with a hammer might release the throwout bearing, now that it has cooled down? that would be by way of diagnosis, of course, not the permanent solution!
Cheers!
J
The only time I had experience with this is when I helped a friend install a Chevy 305 in a '55 Willy's wagon. The truck still had the original transmission, and we used an adapter to mate the tranny to the engine. The company that machined the adapter was off just a tiny bit on the specs. As a result, the alignment was a bit off on the transmission shaft, even though it was close enough for government work. Well, just like gov't work, the bearing took extra heat due to the misalignment and eventually the aluminum bearing transferred material to the tranny shaft and froze up. Not good for his truck. It was not a happy evening when we tore it apart again and then put it together a second time. Happily, the adapter manufacturer provided the replacement part free of charge. They did not pay for our wasted hours, though, or for my ears after listening to my friend vent his frustration every 5-10 minutes.
As for taking it to a mechanic, if you have a place close by, you should be able to get the truck started in 1st gear (I know my '69 Chevy will start in 1st or 2nd, no clutch needed!). You can lurch it out of the driveway in reverse just by using the starter, then limp your way to the shop. I suppose AAA would come in handy as well.
Hopefully someone else will chime in with a suggestion as to the nature of your problem. Folks do respond here, but it tends to be sporadic as this particular topic is only sparsely visited. You can try other topics within the Chevy Pickups forum, though. Oddly, this is the only topic I frequent as almost none of the topics come close to my antique truck.
At least I feel I have a starting off point. I'm also thinking I'll head down to the local repository of auto manuals and see if I can get a visual on the clutch linkage so that I understand better where the other possibilities you mentioned lie.
This truck has been so good that it WILL be fixed! Thanks again!!!
J
robertsonje@comcast.net
Thanks
When using the 4wd, lock both hubs, shift to Neutral with the transmission gear select and shift to 4 hi or 4 low.
Then engage the transmission.
When shifting out of 4wd, shift the transmission to neutral, then shift the 4wd lever to 2 hi and then unlock the hubs. Back the vehicle up shortly to make sure the hubs disengage and then drive normally.
Anyone know what is causing the high oil pressure and excessive blow by gases?
Check the vehicle out pretty well. Pay special attention for leaks on the engine, color of the oils, the condition of the radiator, see what the coolant looks like and make sure that the differential yoke has no up and down movement.
I have a 93 Silverado and have 270,000 miles on the original engine.
I've had to replace the radiator, rear end, heater core and water pump.
If the cooling system was taken care of, you may not have any problems with it.
As for repairs on that truck, with exception of the automatic transmission, most repairs can be relatively inexpensive, compared to some newer vehicles.
thanks,
Califasramsfan. :shades:
Thanks
Jim_h_m_m@yahoo.com
Thanks
Jim