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Chevy C/K Series Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • tburrtburr Member Posts: 1
    I currently own a 1995 Z71. I have found that I have antifreeze mixed in with the oil. I think the head gasket is bad. The engine is a 5.7L V-8 with 220,000 miles on it. My question is, Can I replace this engine with a rebuilt Diesel engine? Has anyone ever done this before?
  • ryderryder Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1997 Chev p/u 1500 4x4. The anti lock brake activates at low speeds (sometimes without applying the brake). It makes a loud whining noise. It seems to be in the front left wheel only. Is the computer the cause of this or a part that can be repaired/replaced ?
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    Are you sure that is the ABS? Typically the antilock system makes a rapid pulsing, "chuka chuka" thumping noise when it engages...
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • ryderryder Member Posts: 2
    It seems to be the ABS. I pulled the fuse to check it, the noise (whining/buzzing sound) stopped. Put the fuse back in and the noise started again. Also, sometimes the brake seems hard when the noise starts. This happens in all driving conditions.
  • cwheelercwheeler Member Posts: 4
    Here goes.. Hi everyone, I am a new member but an old fart who is having trouble with his 1984 Chevrolet G30 truck.. Actually a cut away van with a motor home on its back. The unit has the Hydro breaking system. Bought it used, never had real good brakes, but since replacing front discs, calipers, power steering pump, I still don't have good brakes. When I step on the brake peddle, the peddle wants to kick back to my foot, like there is air in the system some place. It also has a hard peddle. Is there a secret to bleeding this hydro system that I don't know. Or do I have a bad hydro? Welcome any and all comments. Carl
  • cwheelercwheeler Member Posts: 4
    Coming from an old (retarded) mechanic. Your problem indicates a Regulator problem. I am not sure if you have the alternator with the built in voltage regulator, or the older system with an external voltage regulator. Either way, that is what I would check. If that checks out then look for some other draw on the battery, such as was mentioned in another post. Your dome light/ignition swithc or the fuse box. In older cars, water intrusion near the fuse box caused many problems. Hope this helps, Carl
  • tkbeartkbear Member Posts: 2
    Hello, I'm at my wits end trying to figure out why my engine won't fire , I've replaced every thing in the distributor,did a compression check.that was satisfactory, my truck was built in Canada and it never takes the parts that a305 manual or computer calls for. Any one else out there with the same problem? Help
  • cwheelercwheeler Member Posts: 4
    If the engine is an 86, and if you have the HEI distributor.. Please understand I do not mean to talk down to you but not being there with you to see what you have, it is hard to diagnose. My first question is.. Do you have a Haines or other manual? Since I am new to this forum, I am not sure how to get or send personal messages. If I did, I would go through the test procedures that way. The first thing you need to do is make sure the engine is in time, NO 1 piston to TDC and the distributor rotor pointing where it should, to NO1 piston. Also make sure the mark on the flywheel is where it should be with the NO1 at TDC. On a 305 the NO1 piston is the first one on your right front as you are looking from the front of the engine. The reason I note this is. On my first Chevrolet engine, I was trying to time it like the old 302 Ford..Go figure. Next. If you have a 12Volt test light. Ground the alligator end to the engine. Stick the probe into the square receptical where the harness plugs into the dist. Stick it in on the "Pink"wire.Turn on the ignition switch and make sure the distributor is getting power. If the light does not light up, that has to be fixed before you can go on. That is also for another post. If the light comes on with the first test. Pull the cap and turn the engine over..If the distributor turns, it means the gear and roll pin are Ok. If not,you need to pull the distributor and replace either the gear or the roll pin. Next, make sure the small rubber washer is under the coil. That is what protects the coil from grounding in the wrong place. Also make sure you have a good ground on the coil.i.e. ground wire. Again, mistakes I made on my first 305. If it is not there, you are grounding the coil and probably have shorted it out. There will be no fire. Also make sure the spring on the graraphite is straight and not bent all to heck. Also that it is was put in right. The little [non-permissible content removed] needs to make contact with the dist cap. Another of my first mistakes. If all this is good. And I might note, you have a battery that has a good charge on it. And the engine still does not fire.. We need to go into the book and do more tests. Sorry to all that this post is so long, hope it helps, Carl
  • cwheelercwheeler Member Posts: 4
    Did it do it before you changed the U-joints? if it did, I would take the truck and have a dial indicator put on the driveshaft. I.e, just maybe the drive shaft is out of round and needs a weight. In the 50's we had this problem. As for the tranny causing the problem. I don't know.Anything is possible when it comes to man made vehicles. Carl
  • tkbeartkbear Member Posts: 2
    Well I finally got the ole truck to fire, and she started with a bang, but now I can't keep her running. I can't get the idle to set up or down, and I know it's out of time. Any ideas on how to set up the idle so I can at least keep it running? Ted
  • wtruckwtruck Member Posts: 1
    I have a 95 chev pickup with a sticking passenger door. You can pull on the handle on the inside and then give yourself bruises on your shoulder to open it. Any suggestions on how to adjust the door or is it something inside the panel itself?
  • jimmyvhjimmyvh Member Posts: 1
    Hello,
    I have a 93 Chevy K pu with a 350. The truck is great until summer when I drive it at highway speeds going up hills. As the engine warms (mid range) the engine starts to knock. It gets louder and louder until the engine power starts to fade. Some times it is so bad I have to pull over and wait for it to cool. Once cooled off the knock is gone. I have changed, plugs, cap, rotor, wire, cat.converter, exhaust, knock sensor, thermostat. It is definately heat related. it never happens in the winter. I think the knock sensor is the part but i changed it already. I don't know if there is more than the one screwed into the side of the block. The truck runs great every day except for hills when it is hot outside. I have owned since new, truck is in great shape 83k miles. Any help would be appreciated.
  • kenny782kenny782 Member Posts: 1
    It happened last friday.

    Left the house after about 4 miles the engine just shut off while I was driving down the road. I looked under the hood, everything looked okay, oil, coolant etc. I hadn't hit a gas station in a week or so I don't think it's bad gas.

    Anyway I got where I was going started it back up about 30 minutes later and it did it again. I mention to roll into a parking lot waiting a few minutes. Turned it on again put it into drive and waited a few minutes as soon as I hit the gas engine stopped again.

    I just left it there, a friend of mine gave me a ride. I came back the next morning ready to call a tow truck. It started right up and I drove back home. It hasn't done it since.

    I left it with a mechanic today he he hooked up the diagnostic computer and said everything was fine.

    Any ideas?

    Another thing which I think is unrelated, when I take off I hear a strange noise coming from the engine. My best description is the sound you here when your using a straw and your out of soda. :) Just thought I'd throw that one in there. The mechanic wasn't sure what it was he just mentioned tearing the whole engine apart?
  • rayt2rayt2 Member Posts: 1,208
    Whens the last time you chnaged the fuel filter and checked fuel supply pressure ?? Try that before tearing the engine down. Might be a bad fuel pump or clogged fuel filter.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    Does this cause the engine to shudder at all, like the crank is out of balance? If not, it is probably cam/valves/lifters; I am not sure how the '93 350 is set up (i.e., OHC, etc).

    I have a 302 in my '69 Econoline that knocks when it is hot, but it does not tend to make extra noise on hills.... I even had a valve stem break in relation to it, but the valve stem bent so the valve didn't fall into the cylinder. I just pulled the lift rods and spark plug and ran it on 7 for the last 1000 miles of the trip; power sucked because it was the #1 cylinder but it made it - amazingly, mpg wasn't really affected.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • quadsteerquadsteer Member Posts: 1
    Hey guys! Im new here and looking for some solid answers. Im in the market to wake up my slow off the line 6.0 2500 CREW CAB 4x4 QUAD STEER! Im interested in doing a reprogram with HYPERTECH OR SUPERCHIPS. What is the truth here guys? Are they worth the money or not? Can you feel any off the line hp difference or not? My 6.0 moves once you get it moving but its slow on the take off! I cant even bark the tires on take off as it stands now with 3.73 gears. Not interested in superchargers or major changes but would like to hear some bark when I floor it sometimes. I dont have any shortage of pulling power, just take off! There isn't any! LOL! What about the fresh air intake systems like K&N? Worth the $ or not? Love the truck, its just a bit sleepy! Thanks guys!
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    K&N, Hypertech programming, etc. doesn't return much Hp for the buck. I think the truck is a little heavy for the 6.0. Course the 6.0 isn't tuned the same way its tuned for the vette.
  • tineketineke Member Posts: 2
    Hey whats up,we went wheeling,but not crazy,the truck vibrates/feels like something is grinding under our feet.I think what did it was when we went through a stream,we went to fast and we either hit a boulder on the left tire or we hit a pot hole in the stream.we hit pretty hard,but it seemed okay.this morning,the steering squeeks,but the steering fluid is fine.does anyone know what it could be before I go spend a whole ton of money?
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    Did you perhaps flush some grease out of your bushings? You might consider repacking all of them with a grease gun so they do not get any unnecessary wear & tear...
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • tineketineke Member Posts: 2
    Thanks I'll have to check that today.
  • scottmacscottmac Member Posts: 1
    Hi guys, Maybe someone can help me. I have an 86 with a 305 and HEI. Compression is good, distributer is in time and turning, ignition switch is new, but cannot get fire to coil. Even when I jump it to battery, it won't fire. I am wondering if I am getting power to the pick up coil from the computer. I don't have a wiring diagram for the truck, and frankly can't find one. all fuses are good, and can't find any thing out of the ordinary such as wires unplugged, broken etc. does the ECM control power to the coil? to the pick up? any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
  • plcattleplcattle Member Posts: 6
  • plcattleplcattle Member Posts: 6
    New member..long time Chevy owner....have '01 2500HD, best truck ever owned.

    Haul lots of cattle trailers, hay trailers, etc......recently had what I assumed was a shock rattling under left side, rattles only when hit bumps. Bought new GM issue shock.....same noise.....thought maybe bad luck was with me on new shock, so took shock from right side to left, new shock to the right side..........still have the rattle.........that makes three different shocks and still have that rattle.

    Annoying as it can be...........anyone have similar experience?...........thanks
  • plcattleplcattle Member Posts: 6
    Failed to mention in previous posting this is REAR left shock. Any thoughts on what else could be making the noise would be appreciated..........
  • harvellharvell Member Posts: 1
    In december of 2001 I brought a 1999 C/K 1500,extra cab, short bed, old body style with 54,000 miles on it. It has a bounce in the back wheels at 35-40 mph. I have 3 sets of wheels, 2 sets of tires, 2 sets of shocks and had the drive shaft balanced. Please help...
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    Have you checked the U-bolts that mount the axle housing to the leaf springs? It could be that one of the nuts is a little loose.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • whatsachevywhatsachevy Member Posts: 136
    I have an '01 2500HD 4x4 EC 6.0 with 4.10 rear end. It has about 45K miles. It is basically stock except for 285/75/16 mudders on American Racing 16x8 aluminum rims. I recently (about 4 months and a couple thousand miles ago) purchased the Hypertech programmer and powertuned for 87 octane fuel. I raised the max speed limiter, changed the automatic tranny shift points and firmness. I did notice a difference in performance, but it was mild. It basically seemed to restore the power loss that I experienced going from the OEM 245/75/16's to the 285's. It just seems to have a little better throttle response. I have also noticed that the tranny doesn't seem to shift as often when pulling. I also noticed about a 1 mpg increase in fuel mileage, (taking into consideration the fact that my speedo was off before reprogramming). To achieve maximum horsepower from the Hypertech, they recommend powertuning for 91 octane (for '01 models, the programmer allows for either 87 or 91 octane - I haven't checked what is available for '04 models) and changing out the stock 195 degree thermostat to a 180 degree thermostat. I did not change from the stock thermostat. It ain't no supercharger, but I am happy with the results I got and don't feel like I wasted $350 (including tax). Hell, at $2.25 per gallon, it should pay for itself in 25K miles. Go to Hypertech.com. They have some very good information on their product, including detailed instructions for reprogramming. It is extremely easy to do and allows for reprogramming back to stock if you need to take your truck into the dealer (this is very important since the dealer can screw up your reprogramming capabilities if they read the on-board diagnostics and download any changes into the computer). The whole process from powertuning to going back to stock takes less than 15 minutes. I don't have any experience with Superchips or any other reprogramming products, but I have heard stories about having to remove your computer to send it in to get reprogrammed. I am currently looking at a Flowmaster dual exhaust system, more for the sound than any additional performance gains. BTW, if you want smoke from the tires when you take off, hold those huge brakes on and gas her. I can turn a cloud of smoke with the 285's until you can't see the back of the truck. I can get a little bark stomping it from a dead stop, but nothing like good ole' powerbraking. Its also nice not having the truck shut down when the speedo hits 97mph (occasionally!). LOL!
  • weaver3weaver3 Member Posts: 1
    Having trouble figuring this out: I have a 92 Chevy 1/2 ton 4x4 pickup with a 350 motor. The problem i am having is the truck runs fine when it is cold after the temp rises to proper operating temp the truck dies after about 10 min at idle. the truck also seems to want to die when the accelerator is applied to aprox. 1200 rpms. but above 1200 rpms seems to do fine. No check engine light is on. it also has a new fuel pump and filter. after the truck dies it acts as if it were flooded out and will not imediately start back up. after about 5min the truck will fire up run for 5-10 mins and die again. still no check engine light which seems weird. I have also checked all connections to fuel pump inside and outside the tank all seem to be fine, and the pump operates fine.
    Please Help
    Severely Stumped
  • plcattleplcattle Member Posts: 6
    Had a '92 3/4 ton 4x4...........similar running issues........mine were air flow related/vacumn issues, check vacumn lines and replace PCV valve....hope it helps
  • duramaxduramax Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 chevy 4x4 Duramax crew cab 2500. I bought it used and love the truck, but I have had to replace the front hub assemblies twice within 30,000 miles. I dont drive it real rough, but I do use it on the farm. I was just curious if anyone had any ideas on this. The assembly is around 300 dollars a wheel. The chevy place just tells me it shouldnt be happening.
  • bobwriterbobwriter Member Posts: 1
    Just rebuilt the Electronic Injectors (the not-quite-fuel injection, not quite a carb) and re-installed. I get no fuel flow despite a new filter and fuel pump. I think I may have accidently disconnected some line that tells the fuel pump to work and now cannot find it. No luck as most Chilton's wiring diagrams suck big time. Engine will fire and run if I pulse starting fluid thru throttle body so problem is definitely no fuel pressure. Could use some help here. Are there any sensors or relays that may be bad on this baby and if so where are they?
    Secondarily, I get a 'system not responding' when I try to read and reset the codes, any ideas on this one?
  • ericsbabyericsbaby Member Posts: 1
    The truck i have has a 350 motor. Recently we just had to replace a fuel pump filter and tank. Now when you turn the key on there is no gas coming out of the injectors. But then when you turn turn the key off gas starts coming out of the injectors. Could there be a wire or relay somewhere that we have'nt checked? P lease help i am about to junk it out . But it is a really good truck. :cry: :confuse:
  • hoosierhandhoosierhand Member Posts: 2
    Hello Folks,

    I've a 90 C/K Pickup - standard cab, long bed. My taillamps were not functioning properly. Replaced all 6 bulbs. Some work, some don't. Decided to do some research. Discovered that the taillamp holder assembly corrodes and is a common problem among these pickups of certain years. Replaced BOTH right and left taillamp holder assemblies. Now they both work just fine. Still have one problem!!! The right taillamp - all 3 lights come on with no problem. The center bulb (the one that acts as a taillight, brake light and turn signal in one) - works fine except it won't light up when using brakes. Won't flash the bulb when using turn signal. BUT it will come on as a taillight. What to do?? The left taillamp works perfectly... brake light comes on, turn signal works fine. I figure it could not be the brake light switch since it works on the left. Could it be turn signal switch? Relay?

    Please help.

    Thanks,
    Jason
  • KCRamKCRam Member Posts: 3,516
    Starting in 1988, the full size Chevy and GMC pickups (while still maintaing their C/K body codes) were named Silverado and Sierra respectively. If you're referring to a 1988-2005 truck, you should be checking the Chevy Silverado: Problems & Solutions and GMC Sierra: Problems & Solutions discussions for more pertinent information. This specific forum is intended for 1987 and earlier C/K trucks.

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    I thought when pf created this topic it was due to the fact that GM changed the body style and motors in the '99 and up trucks. Creating this topic allowed owners of the "old" body style an area to post their problems. So while the name designation may have changed in "88, essentially everything else remained the same till the introduction of the redesigned truck in '99.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    Wait, the 10-year body style of the 90's is now the "old" body? Dang it. The years just pass too quickly..... :cry:
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • KCRamKCRam Member Posts: 3,516
    I know it's a tad strange (and GM didn't help any by maintaining the body codes regardless of the design), but all the folks who own Silvs and Sierras are posting in theose discussions, so my message was just to get some organization. Would hate to have someone post here about a 2001 where no one will pay much attention to it when the answer could be had in the other discussion.

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • bobbo1963bobbo1963 Member Posts: 2
    Replaced the clutch, throw out bearing and flywheel, slave cylinder and master cylinder on my 95 c/k 1500 350 5.7. When Truck is on Jacks I can start it in 1st gear but clutch will not engage. System has been bled. Pulled the plug from the casing and you can see the slave cylinder pushing the release fork. Anyone ever come across this before I take the effort to remove everything again and inspect it.

    Thanks
  • higgyhiggy Member Posts: 1
    I have the same problem on a 1998 C/K one ton. I have replaced the brake stop switch that mounts under the dash and is actuated by the brake pedal. That did not help. I learned that removing the courtesy lamp fuse will remove the power to the brake lights. It is inntermittent, sometimes it works okay and sometimes not. I have a brake assist mounted under the dash for the 5th wheel I pull some times. The light on it comes on the same time as the brake lights in the rear so I can tell when the lights are on when I drive. Some times it flickers when I hit bumps. I am still looking for the fix though. Maybe this will help.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    Is it possible this is a matter of degree? Perhaps the system needs readjustment; pushing the clutch to the floor is not translating to a full disengagement of the shaft.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • dpsinnhdpsinnh Member Posts: 1
    Check the 02 sensor. I Had that problem on a chevy. Also, you might need a software update.
  • bobm7bobm7 Member Posts: 1
    I have a DTC reading that says crank position not learned I replaced the crank sensor and still have the same DTC reading.
  • mars1mars1 Member Posts: 2
    This is a long shot but I had a "clank" noise from the rear on my Sierra 2500HD when hitting bumps. It turned out to be that there are plastic pads that cushion sections of the leaf springs. The pads are
    about 3 inches in diameter and have a tab that snaps into a hole in the leaves. Two of my pads were missing. I made homemade replacements from some plastic material I have in my shop and voila, cured. Since that time I have been checking out other people's 2500s and many if not most have one or more pads missing. Seems to be a design flaw. Easy to replace.

    Steve
  • rusnakrusnak Member Posts: 1
    Rob:

    Any luck on the check engine light/erg code issure? I am having the same problem with my '93 Z71 with a 350 engine. Was it the erg valve or something else? Thanks

    Chris
  • miva03miva03 Member Posts: 2
    Hello I am a new member of the Chevy truck family and I have a 1985 Silverado that I am having issues with the idle and dieseling. I have already replaced some items: Air filter,PCV Valve, Cleaned the Carburator with Gumout, Idle Stop Solenoid, and checked vacuum lines(some). Does anyone have any advice of what I can check next. I think it may be a timing problem but I am unsure. PLEASE HELP it is driving me nuts. THANKS, BILL
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    I agree it is probably timing and/or fuel/air mixture. My truck ('69 C20) is very sensitive to this as well. In fact, if any one has ideas for my "issue" that I will mention below, perhaps they can chime in.

    If I set the timing as suggested, it has no power. I mean, this thing will ping at the lightest hint of acceleration under load. However, if I set the timing as suggested, then turn the fuel air mix off and 1/2 turn, and finally adjust just until the idle runs smooth, I can retard the timing about 5 degrees and it runs like a champ with no "dieseling." The idle is not quite as smooth with the timing retarded, but overall the truck runs better. After a tank at 55 mph, I pull of about 13 mpg (307), normal driving nets me 11. If I set the timing as suggested I can get up to 14 at 55 mph, but it takes me forever to get to speed and pings on every hill unless I back waaaaay off.

    There is not a whole lot of vacuum on this truck (no EPA stuff in '69), but what is there is working fine.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • miva03miva03 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the input and I will work on that next. I know it can be very frustrating and it seems like you can never get it just right. THANKS AGAIN
  • volts10volts10 Member Posts: 1
    Can someone explain to me :mad: how to change the ignition switch in a 1990 Chevy van with automatic transmission? Thanks!
  • KCRamKCRam Member Posts: 3,516
    Since this is the pickups discussion, you'll probably get better info at one of these two discussions:

    Got a Quick, Technical Question?

    Full Sized Vans

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • drew6drew6 Member Posts: 3
    I own a 1985 c20 w/ a 4 speed and it whisles and hines like crazy when it is in motion, not all of the time, and usually around 60mph it will kick in for sure. if I push the clutch pedal down or put it in neutral it still goes, but only gets louder if it is in gear and acclelerating or if I down shift and raise rpms. I am stumped has anyone else heard of this?
    I also have a problem with dieseling how do I adjust the feul air mix?
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