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Dodge Ram - III

meredithmeredith Member Posts: 575
edited April 2014 in Dodge
This topic is a continuation of Topic 865....

Dodge Ram - II. Please continue these discussions
here. Thanks!

Front Porch Philosopher
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Comments

  • Blong1Blong1 Member Posts: 17
    Good day all, I posted this question some time ago and I am hoping there is some updated info out there.
    I have a 98 1500Quad 2wheel drive. I am experiencing a vibration/shutter when traveling in OD between 42 and 58 MPH. I was originally told that this was a "feature" of the lockup Torque converter and that if I took it out of OD it would be fine. Well a year has passed and the problem seems to be getting worse. It is now even there with the OD off. Any thoughts?? I went through the whell balance, tire rotation thing but no luck. The dealer insists this is normal and I shouldn't be concerned. I am heading to the dealer soon to have an oil leak (possible rear bearing seal) checked. Of course I wonder if all this shaking has anything to do with it
    Thanks
  • dtlawle1dtlawle1 Member Posts: 3
    That's the 5-star reply, near as I can tell. My brakes squeal (00' 2500 diesel -w- 3k on it), the engine chirps when I shut it down and the front end bottoms out at 15 mph over 25 mph speed bumps, all of which is apparently "normal". I'm gonna get it all taken care of next time I go in.

    As for the vibration, I don't have it, nor have I seen any one else complain about it.
  • wildmanbakerwildmanbaker Member Posts: 65
    Since you have the 2 wd, I assume you have the 2-piece drive line. Check the carrier bearing this may be where the vib is coming from. While you are under the truck, check the yoke coming out of the trans, as sometimes the bushing gets worn, or had too much clearance to begin with. I assume you are sill under warranty, so don't take "its normal" as an answer, unless they can prove it to you satisfaction. You can't sell many vehicles with a vibration at those speeds.

    Good luck
    Wildman
  • davids1davids1 Member Posts: 411
    Your tires. Goodyear replaced 3 of the 4 original Wranglers on my 99 Quad 1500 4x4 for being out of round. The tail end would start bouncing at about 45 mph and wouldn't stop until around 55. Those Goodyear tires really are junk, but I do have to give the dealer credit for standing behind them to some degree. It took two trips.

    I checked this myself the lo-tech way. I put the truck up on jack stands and dropped the trans into neutral. There was enough friction within the limited slip rear to keep the wheels spinning at a good pace. I then took a straight edge and placed it behind the spinning tire on a small step ladder so I could see how much the tires wobbled. The tires were out of round by a good 3/16". It doesn't matter how much you balance an out of round tire, it'll still wobble.

    By the way, if anyone does try this, be careful. This is not the safest operation.
  • KCRamKCRam Member Posts: 3,516
    Dodge uses Delco brakes in the Ram because they simply won the bid.

    When the redesigned Rams begin to appear next winter, look for AAM axles (formerly the GM axle division) in place of Danas, and the Allison 1000 automatic with the Cummins and tghe new V10 ayear later, also a GM product. The new OHC V8s are also expected to see high-torque-capacity Mercedes 5-speed automatics over the Mopar units, but that of course is now an in-house switch..

    kcram
    Co-Host - Smart Shopper & FWI Conferences
    edmunds.com Town Hall
  • markcordmarkcord Member Posts: 113
    I'm no diesel expert but isn't that engine chirp on shut down just your belt squealing to a stop. Something to do with the ?high compression? of the diesel bringing it to an immediate stop but the belt not being able to stop that fast?
  • dtlawle1dtlawle1 Member Posts: 3
    Yeah, that's what I've heard, but I don't hear it on other diesels, which makes me think if the belt has the correct tension, it wont do it.
  • lariat1lariat1 Member Posts: 461
    and your belt squeak. I have a 98 4x4 automatic with the cummins and I have run into the same problems the brakes squeal when I am running unloaded but when I am towing my boat (7000#) it stops. To fix this I went to midas and had them replaced @ 50,000 miles. The belt chirp I have found only happens when the engine compartment is warm and I cant find a fix for it but then again it doesnt bother me to much. The way I see it this is still the best truck I have ever owned which includes 4 fords and 1 chevy. I guess you can see how I feel about GM.
  • dtlawle1dtlawle1 Member Posts: 3
    Glad to hear your brakes lasted 50k LARIAT1. makes me cautiously optimistic. Feel the same way about the GM's. We just got rid of an Astro van that had loads of little things going wrong at 45k. I did like the extra legroom in the back seats of the GM trucks though. Have you found that your engine is to heavy for your front springs..??. Mine seems to bottom out over speedbumps.
  • lariat1lariat1 Member Posts: 461
    that no matter what kind of truck you buy there will be little irritating things about it, after all if they made the perfect truck we would buy it and never buy another truck. Anyway my truck has the same "bump" in it I know someone who has a 1/2 ton and it does the same thing. The only fix I know of is new shocks. I have noticed that I do not get the bump when I am towing I figure it is because of some of the weight being taken off the front wheels. With your brakes keep an eye on your rotors if they appear to be getting worn have your brakes done.
  • trambitistrambitis Member Posts: 21
    Hey Kcram or any other Ram devotees -
    I recently bought a 2001 Ram 2500 Cummins 6-speed and now intend to purchase a compression brake for it. Question is: which one to go with? I like the Jacobs reputation but the BD is about half their price. What say you?
    Thanks
  • nittanylion93nittanylion93 Member Posts: 11
    Are there any web sites that have pictures of the 2002 RAM? Is the new RAM going to have a SuperCab version like the Ford?
  • rlkruegerrlkrueger Member Posts: 98
    Hi,
    I need to verify some rear-end/final drive ratio
    information. My understanding is that when Dodge
    increased the tire size on the 3/4 ton's for the
    2000 model year, that they also changed the actual
    tire diameter. The last information that I had was that a 4:10 rear end in this truck with the new tires would give you an effective final drive ratio of 3:77 to 1. Is this true?

    Thanks,
    rk
  • bmckenziebmckenzie Member Posts: 118
    Dodge has offered P265's for years, that is the largest except for the new Off-Roadster which has 32 inch tires on 17 inch rims. On trannies and RPM it depends on which one you have 5, 6, or auto, my RPM's are different with my Cummins and a 5 speed than an auto.
  • RichinKsRichinKs Member Posts: 412
    I believe the P265 is 1/2 ton only. The LT265 is 3/4 ton and maybe one ton (not sure). But previously only the LT245 has been on the 3/4. Your right on the tranny's. My calculations are for the auto and I did not specify that.
  • rlkruegerrlkrueger Member Posts: 98
    I should have been more specific, sorry.
    I am referring to the Cummins powered 3/4 ton with the Auto ( 47 RE ) transmission. I believe kcram has the specs for this. I'd be interested to know the RPM of the cummins with the auto trans and 265 tires, if anyone has this information. Reason is that I may order a new one, and I currently have a 3500 with Cummins/Auto 3:54 rear end. If I order a 3/4 ton with the same stuff except for the 265 tires, then this will drop the rpm of the cummins down even further, which IMO is too low. If the effective ratio is now 3:77 to 1, or somewhere in the neighborhood, I would opt for the 4:10 instead.
    Thanks,
    rk
  • firemandavefiremandave Member Posts: 58
    I have an '01 2500 SLT; 4x4; QC; LB; Cummins; Auto; 3.54 LS with 265 tires. The 265s come with the SLT and SLT+ packages.
    At 70mph I'm turning around 1800 rpms. I don't have any complaints so far. My rationale for going with the 3.54 over the 4.10 was that I thought it would be the best overall choice for me. I consider the auto trans. to be the weak link in the drive train. When I pull a heavy trailer, I figure I'll be out of overdrive at least some of the time if not most of the time. At highway speeds, the 4.10 would be revving too high for the diesel, in my opinion. Even with the 3.54, it screams pretty good out of OD at 60mph.
    The down side is I lose some kick off the start (but it's not a dragster anyway), and I have a lower towing weight rating. If I were towing a lot in the mountains or if it were a work truck that towed all the time, the 4.10 (with a stick)may have been more appropriate. For me the 3.54 works well since I run empty most of the time.
    By the way, recently while towing my little 2000# trailer (in OD), I had to pass a car on a 2 lane state highway. I simply popped the OD off and I had all the power I'd ever want to blow right past the car, then I put the OD back on to keep the revs down and for maximum fuel economy.
    Good luck.
  • nascar6nascar6 Member Posts: 113
    I agree with firemandave. I think my choosing the 3.54 was a good one. My Cummins doesn't sound like it's lugging unless it's around 1200rpm and accelerating. I have the six speed manual, which took a 1/2 day to get used to. I would shift from 3rd to 5th missing the 4th gear gate, and then I found out what lugging a diesel was all about. Unless you plan on towing 10,000lbs often and through Colorado, the 3.54's should be fine. It rained today and anytime I started from a red light, I could get the back tires to break loose. I would hate to have a 4.10 in the rain.

    nascar6
  • firemandavefiremandave Member Posts: 58
    Hey Mike:
    How's it going? I sent you an e-mail last Thursday. Did you ever get it? How's the big dog running? 1600 miles on mine as of today (5 weeks old). Washing it is a real job - up and down the 6' ladder! I put mud flaps on it on Sunday. That should slow down the stone chips.
    Dave
  • tundraturdtundraturd Member Posts: 1
    I am weighing 2 options and would like some advice. For the same price ($29,950), would you purchase a new 2000 slt 2500 QC 4x4, 5.9l gas, 4.10 axle or a 1999 SLT 2500 QC 4x4 5.9 Cummins with 11,750 miles 3.55 axle (includes leather, bed liner and nice canopy) Use will be primarily short commuting with occasional 25 mile trips hauling a 21' cabin cruiser?
  • davids1davids1 Member Posts: 411
    Consistent short commutes will not be good for the diesel.
  • KCRamKCRam Member Posts: 3,516
    rlk,

    Give me a minute or two to dredge the comparative numbers. I had posted them in a previous chapter way back when, and just need to find them.


    davids1,

    Short commutes will not hurt the Cummins at all. I'm just 6 miles from work, and I have almost 60,000 on my 96 3500. The engine has been bulletproof after 4 years, even when I miss an oil change schedule.


    Wow - just 12 more payments, then I can stash some bucks for a 2003... moles from inside DC's Jeep/Truck Engineering say the new HD Ram (2500HD, 3500, and yes, 4500) will have crew cabs, higher GVWR, and mega-duty 5-speed automatics - the Allison for the Cummins, and a heavy duty Benz unit for the gasoline engines.

    kcram
    Co-Host - Smart Shopper & FWI Conferences
    edmunds.com Town Hall
  • cgarnercgarner Member Posts: 1
    Does anyone have the codes for the different axel ratio and limited slip or not? I am looking to buy a used 2500 qc cummins. Also, I read that someone mentioned the 2000's are down on power. Is this true?
  • lariat1lariat1 Member Posts: 461
    about the axel codes but I do know that Dodge puts all of that information on the underside of the hood, the sticker is all the way in the front and in the middle.
  • rlkruegerrlkrueger Member Posts: 98
    Hi guy,
    Don't forget about me now..:-) I think I'm going to list my truck on the AutoTrader site and buy a 2001 3/4 ton Cummins. The truck has been beautiful, no problems, 16.5K miles and rides like a dream. Problem is, it's just a little too big for us. The wife won't drive it 'cause having to watch the fenders, the additional length, and general narrow lane driving makes it a constant chore for her. So we're going to get something with 4 wheels and standard length frame.
    I'm going to miss it though, it's a beautiful running machine, no doubt about it.

    Thanks,
    rlk
  • KCRamKCRam Member Posts: 3,516
    rlk, click Dodge Ram II/Post 46

    kcram
    Co-Host - Smart Shopper & FWI Conferences
    edmunds.com Town Hall
  • johnc12johnc12 Member Posts: 8
    Kcram
    Ihave a 1998.5 ram QC 2500 4x4 diesel with auto trans. and 4.10 gears.Ihave had it to my local 5 star dealer in AZ 3 times for tranny surges over 40 mph.I have had it flashed ? twice and cable and or connector tightened STILL DOES IT .Any help or recourse before I trade for a Chevy Duramax ?
    Johnc12 Thanks in advance .
  • KCRamKCRam Member Posts: 3,516
    Withiout any further details, I would say your torque conveter may be dying. Over 40 mph, in 3rd and 4th gear, the TC is supposed to lock up and provide a direct mechanical connection. Surging at these speeds means the TC is failing to lock up, or failing to stay locked when it should. A test to check this would be, induce the surging as you normally would, then lock out OD, and try it again. If you also get the same surge in 3rd (at a slightly lower speed), it's the converter, and it will need to be replaced.

    kcram
    Co-Host - Smart Shopper & FWI Conferences
    edmunds.com Town Hall
  • johnc12johnc12 Member Posts: 8
    Kcram
    Once again Thank you for your quick response.
    I'am not sure what more details would help ,but here goes some.
    Over the last holiday I pulled my 5W up in the mountains in AZ.Most of the time o/d off. However,
    on one occasion pulling a hill and speed dropped off I turned off the o/d and the truck or tranny
    seemed to shutter for a couple of seconds then caught . I told this to my 5 star heroes.
    Now today I went out as soon as I got your response. And yes I got it to act up around 40MPH.
    Then turned off the o/d and it did it around 25 - 30 MPH . I have also had it do it a 75 MPH on the interstate with or without cruise.Does any of this help ? And how do I get a dealer to help fix it?
    Thanks johnc12
  • cattle1cattle1 Member Posts: 1
    I've located a '92 3/4 ton, club cab, LB, 4x4 cummins truck. It has the automatic tranny with overdrive. The truck has 99,500 miles on it. I'm considering purchasing this truck at a cost of $10,500. Are there any problems that I should be aware of with this year and model? What about the steering connector above the gear box? I've heard of some problems with it--is it an easy fix?? How much power will this older truck have? The engine seems to be in good shape. I'd like to pull a 24 foot steel, 4-horse trailer.

    Is this a good deal on this truck or should I stay with my '94 Chevy Z-71, 1/2 ton???

    Thanks for your unbiased input....
  • KCRamKCRam Member Posts: 3,516
    johnc12,

    You may want to ask a tech to come on a test drive with you, and duplicate the conditions for them. You may even wish to do this at a different dealer or transmission shop for a second opinion. From what you have described, it definitely sounds like a TC issue.


    cattle1,

    Sounds like you found a good truck for your purpose. The only two suspect areas are the steering and transmission. Have them thoroughly inpected for corrosion, excess wear, and leaks. If you and a trustworthy service center are satisfied, the body, chassis, axles, and engine will hang in there for another 100K miles without too much attention other than regular maintenance.

    kcram
    Co-Host - Smart Shopper & FWI Conferences
    edmunds.com Town Hall
  • redbirdredbird Member Posts: 2
    To Blong1,

    I too have a bounce at around 48mph. I didn't have it at first with my factory tires. But it came on strong with my winter tires I put on. I posted a message about this around December, and I got no responses on it. I went through 12 different tires, all with a certain amount of bounce. All configurations had been balanced and rechecked (my tire guys spent a lot of extra effort on this). The only thing my dealer has said is that they will check a few things out when I bring it in (like wheel balance), but they are being clueless beyond that. I have put the summer tires back on and now I have a slight bounce with those too. I am slightly perturbed by this. When you spend over 30k for a vehicle, you definetly want a better response to a problem like this. I bought a 2500 SB SLT+ with the 5.9 engine and 3.54 rear end LT265 tires.

    My own feelings on this are....It is not totally the tires. It is not the transmission. I have a feeling it has a lot to do with the cheap shocks they put in these rigs. I asked them about the shocks (as mine are seeping from the top already) and they said they will "look at them". I believe since they are seeping I will make them put on new ones and see how that works out.

    Does anyone know if I can get MOPAR gas shocks at the dealer?
  • KCRamKCRam Member Posts: 3,516
    redbird,

    I would strongly recommend Monroe Gas-Magnums (full-time on road use) or Rancho RS9000 (even limited off-road) over the factory shocks.

    kcram
    Co-Host - Smart Shopper & FWI Conferences
    edmunds.com Town Hall
  • jnvtrovatojnvtrovato Member Posts: 1
    I had the EXACT same problem with my 99 Dodge Ram Cummins. I took it into my local Dodge dealer and took the mechanic for a ride. He thought that it was the sensor in the torque converter so they "fixed" it. Well it didn't take long to figure out that it wasn't fixed. While it was in I also had the fuel filter changed

    A few days later I decided to change the oil and the front brake pads. While I was doing that I realized that I had an air filter that a friend of mine had given me, so I figured that I would change it. The metering device on the air cleaner did not indicate that the filter was used up, but the foam was quite black and dirty. The problem with the bouncing went away. It has been almost two weeks and I haven't had a problem.

    On the same day I also had my tires switched back to the original set that I took off last fall, but as I recall the problem still existed on the way home from the tire shop.

    Try changing the filter and see what happens. Let me know if the problem is fixed.
  • markcordmarkcord Member Posts: 113
    Another good choice for shocks would be the Edelbrock IAS. These adjust automatically unlike the RS9000s. Two things you just can't seem to get from the factory are good tires and good shocks.
  • davids1davids1 Member Posts: 411
    I'm sure you can get them at your dealer. Should cost only a few bucks.
  • warfishwarfish Member Posts: 117
    I've been asking this question on several different posts, so if it sounds like I'm repeating myself, that's why.
    I have a '01 2500 diesel Quad Cab SLT SB with auto and 3.54 gear. My friends with Cummins Dodges tell me I should be able to tow my 30 ft 5th wheel in OD with no problems, but I find I can't do it without constant shifting in and out of OD. Running at 65 with OD off is a noisy pain, and the mileage sucks at 9.5 mpg. Am I being led down the garden path by these people who say they can do it or do I have a problem with my truck?
    Also, has anyone had any experiences with air deflectors when towing 5th wheels? I'm considering going that route to make the tow easier and increase my fuel mileage.
  • RichinKsRichinKs Member Posts: 412
    Just got back from my first outing pulling my 8000 lb fifth wheel. I have 2001 V10 auto and 4.10. Since we both have auto and have the same problem I thought I'd post. Many told me I could pull in OD, thats why I got the 4.10. A friend with the 4.10 diesel auto 99 pulls in OD on the flat and slight grades. Only goes to 3rd when steep. Mine will not stay in 4th. In fact after cresting the top of a hill going down hill it still will not shift to OD. I must let up on the throttle completely. This cann't be right. I'm calling the dealer in the morning. And the 8 - 8.5 many get towing with the v10 is only a dream for me. But I do get mileage I expected solo.
  • johnc12johnc12 Member Posts: 8
    Kcram
    Just a note to say I think my tranny woes are over. Took your advice and went to a different dealer and road test. It acted up with them on the road test . They dropped the pan and found metal in it. Funny the other dealer who supposedly did a service 6 months prior didnt see it ? Any way 10 days later and a basicly rebuilt tranny and it works better than new!Now to decide whether to take Cummins up on the free offer to remove E-brake or not?I pull a 5W. Or, maybe up grade to a 3 pedal ? Well,again thanks for your help !!
    johnc12
  • KCRamKCRam Member Posts: 3,516
    johnc12,

    Glad I helped some. As far as the E-brake, I have no experience with it, but before you yank it, talk to the Cummins techs about the way you drive, what you tow, and how you use the E-brake. They may be able to give you some tips on how to make it work better for you if you really want it.

    kcram
    Co-Host - Smart Shopper & FWI Conferences
    edmunds.com Town Hall
  • johnc12johnc12 Member Posts: 8
    Kcram
    Do you know whether or not the Ram QC 2500 4x4 is going to get 4 wheel disc soon ? And,were can I get towing specs. with the HO diesel ?
    Thanks !
  • KCRamKCRam Member Posts: 3,516
    The 2500 and 3500 will both get 4 wheel discs and 4 wheel ABS standard this fall (as "2001 1/2" models).

    As for towing, the GCWR with the Cummins is now 20,000 on all 2500s and 3500s, regardless of transmission or axle ratio. This results in trailer weights ranging from 14,150 on a 2500 regular cab 4x2 to 13,000 for a 3500 Quad 4x4.

    kcram
    Co-Host - Smart Shopper & FWI Conferences
    edmunds.com Town Hall
  • KCRamKCRam Member Posts: 3,516
    by the way, the Camper Package is required to get the 20,000 GCWR.

    kcram
    Co-Host - Smart Shopper & FWI Conferences
    edmunds.com Town Hall
  • warfishwarfish Member Posts: 117
    I could get my '01 2500 Cummins auto with 3.54 to tow my 8500 lb fifth wheel at 65 on level ground and stop hunting in and out of OD. DC says it's working right but I know lots of people with the same setup as mine who tow heavier trailers with no problems. I talked to a guy today who specializes in Dodge Cummins trucks. He gave me several reasons why it may be doing this but warned me that if he can't make it fail the dealer will make me pay even though it's under warrenty (1400 miles).
    He also said the 2001 Cummins has more pollution controls that may limit it's performance.
  • dodgedavedodgedave Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a used 1999 Dodge Ram 2500 with the Cummins engine and an automatic transmission. It was new as of 10/98 and has 39,000 miles on it. It was used to pull a goose neck trailer. I plan to use it to pull my 28' fifth wheeler.

    A 4 year, 40,000 mile extended warranty would cost $1,000 ($50 Deduct). This is a Daimler Chrysler warranty and I don't expect to exceed the 48,000 miles at all. Is there a better price for this elsewhere??

    Is this a problematic tranny? I understand it costs 1500 to $2000 to rebuild this tranny. The warranty sounds like a bargin if the tranny is going to go out.

    Your comments were most welcomed as I need to decide in the next few days whether to purchase it or not.

    Dave in Pierre, SD
  • KCRamKCRam Member Posts: 3,516
    dodgedave,

    You probably should invest in the extended warranty for the transmission, especially since the vehicle has towed in the past. As for price, you can shop around to any Dodge/Chrysler/Jeep dealer - all are authorized to sell you the factory plan, and some go out of their way to NOT sell the plan at list price.

    kcram
    Co-Host - Smart Shopper & FWI Conferences
    edmunds.com Town Hall
  • biknmikebiknmike Member Posts: 27
    A friend of mine ordered a 1500 4x4 Off Road package and just found out that it was on restriction for the bright metallic silver paint and the leather seats.
    kcram,
    Can you offer any details about this and any possible time frame for a release of the restriction?
  • KCRamKCRam Member Posts: 3,516
    biknmike,

    Only restriction I can find is for the paint, and that was scheduled to be lifted this past Monday (7/24). It is indeed possible that the leather seats or one or more of the components of the Off Road package could be delayed by the suppliers involved.

    kcram
    Co-Host - Smart Shopper & FWI Conferences
    edmunds.com Town Hall
  • ginsu1ginsu1 Member Posts: 5
    I just bought a '01 1500QC 5.9 and I'm not so happy with the performance. I've seen some owner using K&N filters, Flowmaster mufflers and Mopar Ignition.
    Do those things really improve the performance?
    What's the exact specifications of those parts?
    And what about prices?

    Thanks for your help, guys!

    PS- Like every Ram owner I also have problems with rough idle. And my truck has less than 100 miles!
  • rockymtnrockymtn Member Posts: 2
    2 weeks ago I bought a 2001 Quad 2500 with auto. 6 miles on it when I drove it home from the dealers. Took the check from the bank back to the dealers the following day. Noticed it was pulling to the right on the steering. Had to keep the steering wheel at about 10:00 position to keep the truck going straight. So I talked with the sales manager, thinking that it just needed a front end alignment. An appointment was a made a few days later. After they worked on the Truck for a few hours they said the front end alignment was right on from the factory, but when they drove it they too had right pull. So they offered me a ride home and said that they would continue to trouble shoot it. I told them that I would wait. 3-4 hr later they told me that they found the right caliphers on the front brake to be out of spec. That they were bad from the factory. They had ordered parts, but it would take about 3 working days to get them in. The 2001 had different parts and the local parts houses did not have any in stock, new parts were coming directly from the factory. (this was odd, thought the 2000 and 2001 were identical??) So about week later they schedule me for another appointment, a week later still... ahhh! Worring about driving this way, they tell me not to worry...So today after they have had my truck in for a day and 1/2 they tell me that replacment of the caliphers did not fix the problem. They are continuing to trouble shoot it, but have no idea yet. They talked with factory, they said no steering problems with the 2001,everything from previous models have been fixed. They left the dealership with the thought that the problem did not exist? But the mechanic working on the truck was concerned and agreed something is diffently wrong. So...I have heard that Dodge Ram has had front steering problems, especially pulling to the right. Can anyone give me information or ideas. Stongly considering asking the dealer to take the truck back and move on......thanks for all responses in advance
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