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2006 Chevrolet Impala

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Comments

  • dispencer1dispencer1 Member Posts: 489
    I can guarantee you that there is a VAST difference in routine maintenance costs between an Avalon and an Impala (or any American car for that matter from a Cobalt to a Lincoln). If you want "sticker shock" drop by your friendly Toyota or Honda or Lexus place and look at the prices for the 7500 mile, 15,000 mile and so on "check ups". Of course you can pretend that you have a Chevy and just change the oil every 3,000 miles but when the car breaks down during the warranty period it will be interesting to see if the "checkups" are merely suggested or required. CU never comments on the maintenance costs of their beloved Japanese cars. Of course on most of these cars you also need to change the timing belt. On some of them the engine is ruined if the belt breaks.
  • micwebmicweb Member Posts: 1,617
    I've run into both import and domestic dealers who try to "pack" routine service bills with services not required by the owner's manual. I do agree that this habit is more prevalent with import dealers.

    The real "bargain" at all dealers are the $29.95 (or so) oil changes which throw in a multipoint inspect (19 point upt to 30 point, depends on dealer and make! but basically a fanbelt and underbody look-see). So far as I can tell, the "free" multipoint inspections are pretty much what they want to charge $150 to do at "intermediate" oil changes.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    I usually get slammed when I point out my coworkers' experiences through the years with dealers import Vs domestic packing their costs. Add to that the premium paid for being allowed to buy a Honda or Toyoto plus the Toyota premium for the district franchise holder and you eat up those high tradein value people usually want to point to as the reason to buy foreign instead of domestic.

    IT does cost more at those dealers.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • micwebmicweb Member Posts: 1,617
    I agree!
  • bretonybretony Member Posts: 1
    My 4 month old impala ss is in the shop. Apparently the Power Steering Return Line "Burst". Anyone else had such problems....the guy at the shop told me he already had a few...interestingly, I am told that it will take 7 to 10 days to get the part...I am in Canada....part has to come from the US...any comments out there?
  • dispencer1dispencer1 Member Posts: 489
    This is what the service writer at the Honda dealership said. We have a 2005 Odyssey. He used to work at a GM dealership and said to me privately that the "recommended" check-ups at 7500, 15,000 etc. are all routinely taken care of during normal oil changes.
  • venus537venus537 Member Posts: 1,443
    You've avoided the question by talking about other things.

    "Do you have data about the subscribers' cars?"

    A "yes" or "no" will be nice....


    My intention wasn't to answer your specific question.

    But my answer is no, I don't have such data. I think YOU should be the one to furnish the data to back your supposition.
  • venus537venus537 Member Posts: 1,443
    The fact that this gentleman wishes to buy a domestic product (one of the last mass consumer USA products) then we should all stand behind him and respect his choice.

    Good enough and I do respect his choice. I was taken back by the gentleman's comments about those who don't share his opinion on car buying should "LEAVE" the country.
  • venus537venus537 Member Posts: 1,443
    Correct me if I'm wrong, but does the majority of a dealership's profits come from the service department?

    I would say these maintenance packages came about because Hondas and Toyotas broke down less than the domestics and these dealerships needed the revenue.

    Now the playing field is more level in terms of reliability, but this doesn't mean these practices will go away. It just means the other dealerships will do the same thing.

    With any car I own, I just follow the manufacture's maintenance schedule and not what the dealership recommends (you think Honda is bad you should see what their dealerships want to add onto it). It's funny how when the manufacture's is footing the bill for maintenance (like Audi for the first four years) the intervals are fewer and farther apart.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    >But my answer is no, I don't have such data

    So that's a "No." You don't have anything to support their data. Please provide some real support rather than they must have something. No support is no support. If you can't support what CR does, just say so instead of trying to put it off onto someone to prove they don't. :) Have a nice day.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • venus537venus537 Member Posts: 1,443
    More like YOU don't have the data to support YOUR point.

    YOU (or someone else) are the one that stated that CR subscribers are more likely to be bias towards Japanese cars.
  • dispencer1dispencer1 Member Posts: 489
    I don't have any data for CU subscribers but I've been one for years. Not that I always bear any resemblance to the majority of CU subscribers but I would assume that the majority are:

    -"With it" types of people who keep up with what products are out there. They probably have an interest in HDTV, and DVD Recorders. They probably don't drive their 15 year old cars to the junkyard.
    -Probably are in the top third of wage earners
    -Most likely concerned with the environment, good health, fitness etc.
    -Probably like Japanese cars because of the reliability record and because it is more fashionable to buy a Lexus than it is a Cadillac.

    Joe Six Pack is probably not a CU subscriber.
  • 06fasst06fasst Member Posts: 48
    went to g ville and back reported 23.5 mpg in the ss at 80 mph pretty good plus played a little tag on the interstate, i think DOD should work just a tad better though at higher rates of speed
  • susesuse Member Posts: 4
    I had the dealer "reprogram the electronic brake control module". campaign 5122. per the letter sent by the recall center. It is supposed to reduce the minimum stopping distance on dry pavement.
    my car (5934 miles) was involved in a low-speed ($3000-) collision.The computer did not record the accident.
    My son slammed on the brakes to avoid the suddenly stopped car in front ...
    We did not lurch toward the windshield at all.
    The brakes responded better before the reprogram. I plan to have the dealer undo the reprogram!.

    Has anyone else had a similar problem.
  • susesuse Member Posts: 4
    were you going downhill All the way!! My SS has never averaged more than 15 with cruise control set at 80 on a flat hwy!!!
  • quietproquietpro Member Posts: 702
    I had my brakes reprogrammed a couple weeks ago. I noticed less dive in the front of the car which you may be referring to as the lurch toward the windshield. Don't be too quick to judge. Sometimes your perceptions can trick you. As I understand it, the reprogram corrected the bias between the front and back brakes. A better balance is what I credit with my car's reduced "dive". More evenly distributed braking may feel less intense but may actually be much improved. Give your body a chance to adjust before you make a final decision. :)
  • quietproquietpro Member Posts: 702
    My best mileage so far has been just under 24mpg using the cruise as much as possible and between 75 and 80. In SC, folks don't differentiate between the left and right lanes so cruise control is difficult to use at any speed. :mad: I achieved that number with less than 500 miles on mine. I'm hoping it will improve with break-in. But, I haven't taken a rode trip since.
  • dispencer1dispencer1 Member Posts: 489
    I'm getting around 18 in my small city (no bumper to bumper traffic) with my 2LT with the 3.5 V-6.
  • susesuse Member Posts: 4
    I'll admit that I'm skittish because of the accident. I absolutely love the car. It's a blue SS with a sunroof. pretty fancy after driving my 90 suburban for 16 years!
    I no longer white-knuckle it driving in the winds in the desert. It hugs the road and is a sweeeet ride.
    It did go further than we anticipated, thus, tapping a bumper in front of us resulting in damage. I get it out of the shop on Thurs and will take it somewhere to test the braking distance... before I trade it in or have them undue the reprogramming....
    It had no emergency brakes when I bought it, therefore the brakes have been worked on twice. I'm a driver, not a mechanic...
  • 06fasst06fasst Member Posts: 48
    Florida is a flat state you know and that was even with a headwind going up and a tailwind on the return.
  • mfletou1mfletou1 Member Posts: 508
    I've own 3 GM cars. Never bought anything but. My Intrigue at 39k is already starting to wig out on me (big time--how would you like a stall at 40 mph--once before it was 'fixed' the second time after?

    But anyway, I like the new Impala a lot, but frankly, after nothing but trouble with my 3 previous cars (plus my then-fiance's Alero), I'm thinking about throwing in the towel and going with something else. I'm not planning to buy right now (unless my car can't be fixed, its on its third trip the dealer), but when the 5/60 warranty is up I'm worried, with good reason.

    Which brings me to my point--right now, at least, there is zero price advantage to Impala over Accord, Camry, etc. An Accord EX V6 with leather, sunroof, heated seats, dual climate, stability control, traction control, 6 disc cd changer, etc is running $24.5 in the real world market. Impala inventories are low, but getting one up to that level right now is over $25k, whether its LT3 or LTZ level. And frankly, the Accord V6 is far superior to the Impala 3.5, so I'd want the LTZ to get the 3.9.

    So anyway, I'm sort of neutral at this point, but I did want to point out that there is really not a price advantage (a discount as you say) with the Impala right now.
  • raym0016raym0016 Member Posts: 7
    "So anyway, I'm sort of neutral at this point, but I did want to point out that there is really not a price advantage (a discount as you say) with the Impala right now."
    I think that is a good sign. As long as the practice holds, that means higher trade in values for us that have these cars. What kills our trade in values on gm cars for the most part is you could get a new one for thousands off msrp due to rebates and such.
    And, if you are on the fence still, at least you are an educated consumer.
    I have the LTZ and it is a very solid vehicle. A little luxury and good power. I am averaging 21mpg in mine mostly city and a little highway. Much better than the 15mpg I got from my 2003 trailblazer that I traded for this. I liked the trailblazer too but I had no luck with it. I got in two accidents totalling 12k in repairs including repairs to the frame and at 39k miles, out of warranty and some rattles due to the accidents, I decided it was best to move on! Previously to the trailblazer I had an 2002 impala that I was very board with. I traded that quickly because I got such a good deal on the trailblazer 8k off msrp! When I sat in the Impala at the auto show, I loved it and had to take a test ride. I was sold.
  • mfletou1mfletou1 Member Posts: 508
    Yeah, I like the look and interior too. I probably won't be buying at all (hopefully my Intrigue will survive and prosper), and the lack of price advantage might be a good thing for GM itself IF the company can deliver on long term quality. That's the problem for me.

    My wife drives a 2004 Malibu Maxx. Its on its THIRD set of rotors at 18k miles and these are squealing like a scared cat. The service advisor tried to tell me that the problem was that she drove the car into Washington every day, and the stop and go traffic was too rough on them. I asked him what it wasn't too rough on the Accord in front of her in that stop and go traffic. He said that the Malibu's rotors were metallic, and that made the difference. We should drive it more gently. (Maybe quit work I guess?) Oh yeah, the circuit breakers that regulate the direction lights are causing the taillights to short, so that had to be replaced.

    Uhh, ok. That epitomizes it in a nutshell. How about the rotors are low quality? Her previous car, an Alero, dropped its entire steering system at 21k miles--just out of warranty because it was over 3 years old. Cost us $3 grand to fix, GM chipped in like $400.

    And now my Intrigue--two steering shafts, this stall problem. They ran the codes--and in the midst of trying to fix the stall, discovered a leak in the infold manitake, busted Co2 sensor, and blown ignition switch. And the check engine light is right back on! Oh yeah, 2 months ago my power windows stopped working--switch had to be replaced ($600 if it hadn't been warranty).

    In all those cases, I LIKED the cars. I think my Intrigue is well engineered, stylish, fast, great features, etc. But can I trust it as time goes on?

    That's my concern with the Impala.
  • raym0016raym0016 Member Posts: 7
    Maybe if YOU buy the Impala, it won't be very reliable. You seem to have some bad luck with cars. Not being a smart [non-permissible content removed].. Just joking. I have had good experiences with my cars. I have owned 4 new gm cars since 2000 and other than things I did myself and the ocassional bug, I have had excellent luck. I am probably as fortunate as you are unlucky... Who knows? I had a 2000 Grand am GT that I leased then I got the impala. I traded the impala because I thought I wanted a truck but I never had any problems with it. I hit too many things in my trailblazer which was otherwise a good truck with no problems. There was some rear turn signal switch recall. I just hope my good luck with GM continues. I know I am not the only one that has had a good history with GM cars and you are not the only one that has a bad history with GM cars. I would be willing to bet that if we looked at ANY other brand, we would see the same thing. Good Luck with your intrigue and if you do end up continuing to drive GM cars, good luck on your next one.
  • mfletou1mfletou1 Member Posts: 508
    Yes, you're right. There is a certain element of luck. But at some point, you do have to look at trends and patterns, and clearly, they do exist.

    On my Intrigue, both major problems are common. If you went over to the Intrigue forum, you'd see it over and over again. My service advisor says the same thing. So if virtually every Intrigue has chronic steering shaft problems, well, that's a quality issue that shouldn't be acceptable, especially considering a bought I car in its last model year.

    I hear you...good luck with your Impala. From everything that's known so far, its a great car.
  • zjimzjim Member Posts: 51
    Your comment: " My wife drives a 2004 Malibu Maxx. Its on its THIRD set of rotors at 18k miles and these are squealing like a scared cat. The service advisor tried to tell me that the problem was that she drove the car into Washington every day, and the stop and go traffic was too rough on them. I asked him what it wasn't too rough on the Accord in front of her in that stop and go traffic. He said that the Malibu's rotors were metallic, and that made the difference. We should drive it more gently. "

    The rotors on all cars are "metallic". They're all made from cast iron. What your service advisor is trying to explain to you is that the brake pads are metallic pads. There are several reasons for brake squeal. The most likely cause is that the pads are glazed from all that stop and go traffic. If your wife is one of those who left foot brake, resting her foot on the brake pedal in heavy traffic, she could be part of the problem. "Riding" the brake pedal causes drag on the rotors and pads, which in turn creates heat. This heat can warp the rotors and glaze the pads. Either, or both conditions can cause horrendous brake squeal. By the way, the squealing caused by metallic brake pads is relatively common since most cars use them. If you truly needed 3 sets of rotors in just 18K, driving style could be part of the problem.
  • quietproquietpro Member Posts: 702
    I second the opinion on driving style. This isn't meant as an insult but hopefully some insight. Aside from possibly riding the brake with the left foot, braking style can also increase wear and heat. Long, gentle braking is often thought to be more gentle on the brakes but will cause them to overheat very quickly. As an example, my sister and I owned nearly identical cars. Mine was an '02 Monte Carlo, hers, an '02 Grand Prix. Her husband does a lot of the driving and he is a left foot braker. Having ridden with him and followed while he drives, he does ride the brake a lot. Her car needed new rotors and pads at 35K. I decided to change my pads at 55K because I KNEW they had to be worn out. As it turned out, I had at least another 25K of wear but continued with the work since I already had the job half done. If she is a left foot braker, she may want to consider "re-learning" that skill. It will likely improve fuel mileage was well.
  • mfletou1mfletou1 Member Posts: 508
    Good points, but neither of us are left foot brakers. In fact my wife is a rather tame driver, I'm far more aggressive. I do drive her car quite a bit myself, but I don't ride the brake and I drive it more on weekends (w/o the same traffic).

    My Intrigue hasn't had the problems the Maxx has. I did have new front rotors and pads put on at around 31k and just had new rear rotors and pads at 38k. I consider that within the normal range for the type of driving I do, which is about as heavy as you can get. My wife's Alero was a disaster on wheels but didn't have brake problems, so its not her driving style.

    I should haveshared a little more information if we're going to discuss brakes---#1, the problem is not really squeaking, that's cosmetic, the problem was/is braking performance. Heavy vibration, decreased stopping distance, etc. I should have also said that the service advisor's comments were before they got the car in.

    The time he made the driving style comments, I got a phone call a few hours afterwards saying that his mechanics believed that the rotors were so pitted they couldn't even be resurfaced, and they would be replaced under warranty since it was their determination that they were not due to normal wear but rather equipment failure. Those particular rotors had been resurfaced less than 5k ago and themselves were new not long before that. I restrained myself from saying "I told you so."

    On the Maxx, I've never paid a dime for any of the brake work, its all been under warranty. It has been my experience that dealers aren't eager to pass brake problems onto the manufacturer if it can be avoided, so I think that speaks to the quality of the product.

    Again, btw, with the Maxx--we like the car. Its a shame its going to have a short model span because its an incredible useful, unique vehicle. I went ahead and bought a GMPP 7 year/72k warranty on it, which I felt was neccessary. I got such a good deal on it (it was an '04 LS1SB and we paid well under $17k) that I didn't mind paying for the extra warranty. But my experience with it so far still has me questioning the long term quality. In addition to the brakes, as I said we've had a new circuit breaker put in the back since the tailights kept on burning out--literally every month (driving style too right? ha), and we've had some parts of the interior fall off---mirror, panels, center console stack got loose, etc. Just not the sort of thing that inspires confidence.
  • white6white6 Member Posts: 588
    Most brake rotor "warping" problems are due to improper lug nut torquing. I say "warping" because 99% of the time, the rotor isn't actually warped, but worn unevenly, so that as it rotates through the brake pads, the thickness changes. That's the pulse you feel in the pedal. Do you have your tires rotated? If so, whoever is doing this job is probably not following proper procedure to retorque your lug nuts. I agree that most rotors are of substandard quality; all the more reason to use proper lug nut torqueing procedures. People have their tires rotated and then about 4-6,000 miles later mysteriously develop "warped" rotors....
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    Agreed.

    When I have any work done on the car, I come home and jack each wheel they touched up and loosen and retorque with my own wrench. It takes 10 minutes for one and 3-4 for each after. Worth it.

    Another cause of warp is right after a stop heats the rotors drive through a puddle of water splashing a lot onto the hot rotors before you've driven far enough to cool the rotor some.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • mfletou1mfletou1 Member Posts: 508
    Good advise on retorquing. I lived in a condo with no driveway or anything so it wasn't really possible before, but we just moved...

    But actually, tires were only rotated once, problems have developed a bunch of times since then.
  • charts2charts2 Member Posts: 618
    Last week the Insurance institute for highway safety said car makers now supply their own crash data for frontal offset crashes at 40 mph. For 2006 The Hyundai Azera and the Toyota Camry rated GOOD.....The 2006 Impala rated ACCEPTABLE......This information allows insurance companies to adjust their insurance premiums on vehicles tested.
  • deminindeminin Member Posts: 214
    We've had our LTZ for 6 months now, and (knock wood) its doing great! Zero problems, and decent mileage. We had the brake reprogramming done, and so far that is the only trip back to the dealer. The worst fuel mileage I have recorded is 20.3MPG running around the city all day, and the best was 28.3MPG holding a steady 68 MPH on the highway. Average for us....mostly open road...is in the 27.5 range. We have not noticed the heated seat or radio problems others have reported. I have come to appreciate the firmer ride and suspension on this model. We travel a lot of winding two lane rural roads, and this car is a hoot to drive through the curves with good control at well over the recommended speeds. The closest thing I have in the way of a complaint might be the smaller outside mirrors, but I have gotten used to that, and it poses no problems. I'm still a bit PO'd about the speed being limited to 113MPH, but thats probably for the better....as fast as this thing climbs to its top speed, I would probably lose it if I were able top max it out.
    Bottom line....we really like this car, and would recommend it to anyone considering one.
  • dispencer1dispencer1 Member Posts: 489
    Simplest thing to do is when you buy any domestic car purchase the manufacturers bumper to bumper warranty. Sometime before the 3/36 are past I'll get the 6 year GM Protection Plan 100k warranty for my Impala 2LT. I have this on my Cadillac and it beats worrying about unexpected cost of repair. So it costs $2,000 or so - it is better than paying $600 on an intake manifold gasket or $1200 or more on a head gasket or $300 for a replacement radio.
  • mfletou1mfletou1 Member Posts: 508
    If you want the cheaper "new" car warranty, you have to do it within the first 12 months and 12k miles. Its to your advantage to wait until the last month since the warranty kicks in from the day you purchase it, not the day you purchase the car.

    I got a 7 year, 72k mile extended warranty on my Maxx, $200 deductible, for about $1000. By the time the warranty expires, my car will be 8 years old and have 81k. Not too bad. And they are fully transferable, and you can cancel at any time and get your pro-rated money back, less $50 or something like that.

    Its a good deal, I didn't mind doing it when we paid what we did for the Maxx, but on a $25k Impala I might resent it when $24k would get me something else that didn't need the extended warranty.
  • ivanadrivealotivanadrivealot Member Posts: 35
    Has anyone experienced this: When driving, after pressing the rear window defogger button, it always stays on for a long time. For example this week, I pressed it and it stayed on for over 30 minutes. I either have to manually turn it off or shut off the engine.

    I checked the manual, and it doesn't list any times for a timer. All it says is that while driving, it may stay on longer. (A possibly accurate but equally useless answer!)

    Most cars usually have a 10-20 minute timer. Not sure if there's any difference between the three main trims, but would appreciate feedback from 3LT and LTZ owners anyway. Trying to determine if I need to bring it into the dealer, thanks.
  • quietproquietpro Member Posts: 702
    I'll take a crack at this since you referenced the manual. It sounds like it may have a thermostat built into the system rather than a timer. If so, it would remain on long enough to get the rear glass to a pre-determined temperature. If you're driving in a cold climate, it would take longer to reach that temperature or maybe never reach if the weather is cold enough. When I lived in NH, my defroster would shut off with the timer and I would have to continually re-engage it. I'm guessing this is an improvement over a simple timer. ;) I'll experiment with mine and follow-up.
  • dispencer1dispencer1 Member Posts: 489
    I agree -the time to buy the warranty is before 12 months or 12k miles. I usually get the 0 deductible 7 year 100k mile one. The Impala cost $22,800, not $25k and I don't contemplate a lot of repairs. It is my understanding that the Protection Plan starts when the car is first put into service regardless of when you purchase the Plan. My "Certified" Cadillac was purchased in January of 2004 but the warranty started in October, 2002 when the car was first put into service. It will expire in October, 2008, not January,2010.
  • 06fasst06fasst Member Posts: 48
    i was wondering the same thing mine never shuts off either but i read this in the manual The rear window defogger will turn off automatically after it has been activated. The duration the rear window defogger is on will be longer if the vehicle is being driven. The defogger can also be turned off by
    pressing the button again or by turning off the engine.
    whatever that means all i know is that is stays on forever and ever from what i can tell
  • mfletou1mfletou1 Member Posts: 508
    Well maybe YOUR Impala cost $22800, but the one I would get does not. I want an LTZ or an LT3 with the 3.9--leather, sunroof, heated seats, dual climate, etc. The 3.5 doesn't work for me. As I've been saying, right now I could get an Accord with the same features for significantly less than an Impala, which is not even factoring the extended warranty which I would need with the Impala.

    Interesting about the warranty--I would suspect there are different terms considering the certified Cadillac warranty. I have my GMPP in writing, and the expiration date was 7 years from the date of purchase of the warranty.

    Incidentally, I just spoke to my service advisor about my Intrigue. They think they've cleared the service engine soon light once and for all, but my steering shaft is gone. Again. This one lasted all of 10k miles. Replacing under warranty.
  • That's the downside of buying American (or German): you really have to seriously consider the extended warranty. With the Japanese frontrunners, you can take a chance (and win) that you don't need one. I've had several of their cars that went high mileage with nothing more than oil changes and other routine maintenance. Nothing at all broke, and no adjustments needed when brand new.

    I wish GM would get to that place. The Oldsmobile I had in the 90's was the worst of all. It didn't matter that the dealer covered all the defects and repairs. Having to take a car in, wait for it, and sometimes have the repair re-done is a rotten experience even when it doesn't come out of your pocketbook.

    I know some Buicks have a good reliability reputation now. Good enough that you can skip the extended warranty--which is just a dealer money maker on Toyotas and Hondas?
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Member Posts: 872
    If I'd bought the extended warranty on my 2000 Impala, I'd have lost money in the long run. The problems I've had were covered under warranty, and the few things I've encountered since the warranty expired wouldn't have amounted to what I'd have spent on the warranty. Not saying I'd do that with any/all GM/domestic vehicles, but I felt pretty confident in the 3800 engine, and it's proven to be a safe bet.
  • charts2charts2 Member Posts: 618
    Auto makers wouldn't offer extended warranties if they weren't making money off them. Following regular maintenance schedules is enough peace of mind for me. If something breaks then so be it. This $100 deductable everytime the car goes in for repairs during the extended warranty is a ripoff.

    I believe time will come soon when the big three bump up their basic warranties. If Korean companies can offer 5 years with unlimited mileage now, then it won't be long that the big three get into the game to compete. But even if basic warranties are extended, the cost is built into the car somewhere.
  • poncho167poncho167 Member Posts: 1,178
    I totally disagree. Why would I consider an extended warranty on any new car, especially American. That is like throwing money away. It's just a way for Toyota to make extra money? That is crazy.

    I have never had an issue with a new American car other than a rebadged import that continually had ignition problems.
  • mfletou1mfletou1 Member Posts: 508
    Well, frankly your very lucky then. After the 3/36 expired in my Oldsmobile, thus far I've racked up $2,200 in repairs. All covered under warranty. All would have been out of pocket otherwise.

    My fiance's Alero had just 21,000 miles but we as 3.5 years old and thus out of warranty. The entire rack and pinion steering system collapsed. She was driving in a parking garage, you should have seen the power steering fluid oozing out. Cost over $2,000 to repair. I tried to get GM to pick up the cost, arguing that a component like that should not fail in modern car with 21k miles. Their response: "that's why we recommend an extended warranty." They chipped in $400.

    I learned my lesson. GMPP for me.
  • charts2charts2 Member Posts: 618
    With that many repairs, maybe thats why Oldsmobile is no longer with us, and now only remembered in the history books.
  • dispencer1dispencer1 Member Posts: 489
    You could also purchase a certified DTS Cadillac at the end of the year for what you are blowing on an Impala and I can guarantee that the Cadillac will blow away your 3.9 litre V6. The Luxury II package will cover the things you must have. Actually I've found that the Accord rides like a truck and maintenance costs a fortune. By the way - why did you buy an Intrigue when you knew that Olds was going away? The 60k warranty was nice but resale is going to really hurt you. If I was going to spend more than 27k on a car I'd get an Avalon rather than an Impala. My choice for a second car (actually it is my 3th serious car -one is a Mustang) was the Impala vs a Malibu. For a thousand dollars the Impala beat the Malibu hands down for looks and interior comfort.
  • charts2charts2 Member Posts: 618
    Basic warranties are probably mandated that they have to be universal to that vehicle line, no opting out. I know before the Cavalier was discontinued its basic warranty was 5 years 60000 miles on the powertrain. I do believe that in the next couple years the big three will be hiking their basic warranties to stay competitive.

    Up until the mid 60s basic car warranties in the US were 12 months or 12000 miles. Oil changes were 2,000 to 3,000 miles and bias belted tires lasted 10,000 -15000 miles. Most people rode the tires until they were bald, or had a blow out back then. The 2006 Impalas have come a long way since then and more improvements more often will come as we move ahead.
  • mfletou1mfletou1 Member Posts: 508
    1. I don't want a Deville DTS. Its too big for my needs, gas mileage is at least marginally worse, and I prefer new cars.

    2. I haven't driven an Accord so I can't comment. As to maintainence, what really needs to be done other than the standard fluids, etc. An oil change is an oil change. My point was only that for the price point where the Impala LT3/LTZ is, you could have a loaded Accord and still have money left over, and I personally don't think that's a winning proposition for GM at this point.

    3. Because I thought--and continue to---that the Intrigue was an excellent car. I knew resale was going to hurt me, but I got such a deal on it that I considered it at least an even trade. The MSRP was just about 28,000, I paid $19 and the dealer gave me $10k for my '01 Alero that also was full of problems. KBB was $7k. I also had some GM Card money to burn and got a college grad rebate, so the out of pocket for me to go from my clunker of an Alero to a loaded Intrigue was worth the money.

    In terms of the problem, you can't differentiate Oldsmobile from the rest of GM here. Most of the components are the same. The only part NOT shared was the Shortstar V6 which was a better engine than the 3800 anyway and has been problem free. Also, my Intrigue has PCS, a stability control system that wasn't offered on Impala, etc. But is the same platform and many of the mechanicals are shared. So the "oldsmobile" nameplate doesn't really mean much other than sheetmetal (which for my money was easily the best of the GM W bodies).

    A $27k Impala will have literally everything on it, whereas the $27k Avalon will be the base model. These days, a comparable Avalon is going to run you $33k or so.
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