2006 Chevrolet Impala

ajt1124 · March 2008

This is not true. 2006 Impala LT has outside temperature gauge, therefore when you remote start the car, it will sense what the temperature is and then adjust accordingly.

ladyz · March 2008

Oh. I'm just going by what my owner's manual says and so far it seems to be doing just that. Maybe it's a little of both.

ladyz · March 2008

So are the headlights different from the DRLs? I keep my lights on Auto. But, I have been trying to pay very close attention to when all this dimming and brightness are going. It does appear to be at its brightest when the sun is high. Which is odd...should be bright during daylight hours regardless of how high the sun is. Guess I can't have everything...darn! Thanks for your input everyone.

priggly · March 2008

Isn't the '06 Impala SS a really great car?!! I am surely impressed with mine!

gocasskings · March 2008

Mine is not an SS but an LTZ and with the recent monitor system telling me that I needed to service traction control this was noticeable. I am not sure if that is the problem yet or if it is the engine code that came up when ON STAR ran their diagnostic. The car is at the dealership and will hopefully be ready tomorrow. Maybe I will know more.

Did the person with the whining in the steering column get that resolved. I had been trying to ignore that until I had reason to go in. My car isn't hard to turn, but there is definitely something there. That issue is on the list of things for them to look at while they have it YET AGAIN.

I had the original power steering line replaced a year ago. It SUDDENLY lost all fluid as I turned. I don't think there was any gradual loss. That is the one (of the many) repairs that I am still angry at GM over. When mine happened it was beginning to be an issue in our colder climates. I am sorry, but with the way my situation was this should not even be a TSB. This should be a RECALL. I will forever be grateful that I was pulling into a parking spot because had I been driving down the highway changing lanes or something, I can only imagine the problems this could cause.

jcooley · March 2008

At 35750 the key fob receiver failed. Replaced under warranty. Never had any issue with distance of key fob. It totally locked up. At 25000 had tires replaced was not at all happy with goodyear integrity tires. Average 20-21 mpg in mostly city driving. Black paint seems to scratch easily. Very large trunk. Had the whine noise, I added power steering fluid and brake fluid and hasn't repeated in 4 months. Overall very happy.

ckas78 · March 2008

My car is a 2006 LTZ and just last month noticed a whining when turning the wheel. Because my dad taught me a lot about cars years ago, I immediately took it to the dealership. The power steering hose had a leak in it and they repaired it.

Recently I've read several articles about the 2006 Impala's - that they are not very reliable afterall. This disappointed me because it was rated so high. The article stated there were problems with the brakes, power train and suspension.

Has anyone experienced problems with the feeling while you're driving that the front is on rubber balls and the car is bouncing around?

quietpro · March 2008

I don't have problems with my power steering but I don't live in a cold climate. I am a bit concerned that mine will fail eventually, just not while it's still under warranty.

I DO have issues with the suspension in my '06 SS. Other than that, the only other issues are whining from the A/C and slow heater. I haven't been able to get a dealership to acknowledge the front suspension problem but I think that is just their reluctance to pay for a repair. I have 2 other '06, one '07, Impalas in my family and none of them have this problem. However, I'm the only one with an SS and had attributed it to the extra weight of the larger engine/stronger transaxle.

Hearing that you have a problem with the suspension on an LTZ is, at least, a bit redeeming. That would possibly indicate that it IS a suspension issue and not a design flaw that I have reluctantly started to believe. I had already planned to make one more attempt at getting it resolved before my warranty expired. I thank you for the input.

Any other non-SS owners having the "bouncy" front suspension problem? In my case, it's nearly impossible to identify unless you're actually driving the car. In other words, you can do the standard suspension bounce test and see how many rebounds it takes to stabilize the car but this will appear normal because a person can't push hard enough to get the suspension into the zone where the problem exists. However, when driving, it is EXTREMELY erratic. I can best isolate it going over speed "humps" (the longer, softer speed bumps that you can drive over comfortably up to about 10 mph). When driving over these, the suspension bounces 3-4 times before leveling. Also, it is extremely noticeable when at higher speeds, 40 mph +, uneven/rolling bumps (not potholes or sharp bumps, just not perfectly flat) while turning. These are minor road imperfections that would easily be absorbed by a modern suspension (and are by my sisters' Impalas) but mine seems to buck (rebound) hard off of them. It's not the absorption...or the initial bump that's bad, it's the suspension's reaction to them that's problematic. It definitely does not inspire confidence.

I would love to hear from others, especially if you found a way to convince a dealer that this problem existed and got a repair.

Thanks, ckas78!

quietpro · March 2008

Direct quote from the owners manual:

If your vehicle has an outside temperature display, during remote start this feature allows the climate control system to default to a heating mode during colder outside temperatures and a cooling mode during warmer outside temperatures. If your vehicle does not have an outside temperature display, during remote start the climate control system will turn on at the setting the vehicle was set to when the vehicle was last turned off.

Your vehicle may have a remote starting feature. This feature allows you to start the engine from outside of the vehicle. It may also start up the vehicles heating or air conditioning systems and rear window defogger. When the remote start system is active the vehicle will automatically regulate the inside temperature. Normal operation of the system will return after the key is turned to the RUN position.

quietpro · March 2008

ladyz,
Yes, daytime running lights (DRL) are different from headlights (in the sense of when/why they are engaged and what other items/features correspond) although from the front of the vehicle, they appear the same.
It makes perfect sense that your dash lights are at their brightest when the sun is at its highest in the sky. This is because that feature (automatic headlamps) is controlled by ambient lighting. As the sun goes down at sunset (or reversed for dawn), the angle in which light enters the sensor changes. This allows for your headlights to come on even while it's still fairly bright outside. This is obviously safer than waiting for it to be totally dark before the headlamps/tail lamps engage.
As they posted above, make sure that you have nothing blocking the light to the sensor on your dash (and that is is clean). It looks like a caramel colored bubble. Also, I have seen the cover (the bubble) get knocked loose to cause similar problems. It's also possible you have something else blocking the ambient light, such as a dash cover (would very likely cause a problem) or items hanging from the rear-view mirror (less likely).
It seems like the system is functioning but just "confused." Double-check the tail lights when the display is dim. This will indicate that the car is in night mode (headlamps/tail lamps/dimmed radio/dash lighting) vs. daytime running lamp (DRL) mode (headlamps/no tail lamps/bright radio/dash lighting). If the tail lamps being on corresponds to the dim display, you'll know the system is working but not reading the ambient lighting accurately. You will have done the majority of the service department's troubleshooting for them.

Good luck and be sure to post back with updates.

Ron

tturboarnp · April 2008

I'm in the process of purchasing an 06 Impala LTZ and I noticed the blinkers are extremely loud - can this be remedied? The car has 36k on it and appears quite clean - anything else I should be looking for? Thanks in advance

cdnone · April 2008

My problem I think is a very isolated case....fortunate for you /unfortunate for me LOL. My blinker noise, when working normally, is actually very faint....to the point I often find it gets left on at times and the car then chimes at you to remind you. When I bought the car I initially asked if it was possible to make the noise a bit louder. but they said they had no control over the volume. Wow and 3 months later the full volume blinker became one of my issues.
If I didn't have this isolated problem I would highly recommend the Impala....it is a great car to drive both in the city and is great on the highway....perfect size too if you are looking for the extra room that some imports don't have...the trunk space has amazed many people....4 sets of golf clubs are not an issue.

tturboarnp · April 2008

My question is how do I decrease the volume of the turn signal?

nosirrahg · April 2008

I had a 2000 Impala, and as I recall you could press down on the #6 radio preset with the radio off (and the key on), and it would cycle the turn signal level between normal and loud (I think it also adjusted the sound of all the alert tones too). Can't guarantee that's the same way to do it on a 2006+, but at least there's hope. As I recall I found that info digging through the owners manual at one point, so if you have a copy there might be info there. Also, FWIW it was pretty common in the 2000-2005 models for the flasher button on the dash to go out (you'd know when your turn signals quit blinking, but could be "jump started" by pressing the hazard button. Anyway, typically replacing the faulty switch resulted in a muted blinker sound...might be another option.

tturboarnp · April 2008

Thanks - there is no owners manual with this vehicle so I'll have to track one down

ryster · April 2008

The turn signal volume in '06+ Impalas is controlled through the Driver's Information Center (DIC). It is one of the settings. I believe the choices are Low and High. Press the 3rd button down (the button with the two checkboxes on it) until the Tone Volume settting comes up. Then press the 4th button down to change it from low to high or vice versa.

tturboarnp · April 2008

thanks I'll give it a shot -

nosirrahg · April 2008

Also basing this on my 2000 ownership, but I think if you go to www.mygmlink.com you can register your vehicle there, and having done so you can click on the "glovebox" link and can download a pdf of your model's owners manual. Even though I had a manual with mine I downloaded one too, so if I had a question about something but didn't want to trudge outside and get the book, I could just pull up the pdf.

Registering at the site is also a good way to get any recall info and such too, since you can enter your VIN so they'll know exactly which vehicle you have.

jhines82 · April 2008

I am interested in putting some aftermarket rims on my 2006 Impala LT. I am wondering how that will affect the Tire Monitor System. Is there a way to disable the system, or can sensors be installed on the aftermarket rims so the system will still function properly. Can someone help me out

loyalss · April 2008

I have been following this message board since purchasing my 06 SS in Nov. of 05. I've seen numerous post about problems experienced by owners and they seem to be split between the SS and LTZ models pretty evenly. I have not had one issue with my SS since purchasing it and have only had one recall and that was to reprogram the braking system. Has anyone had other recalls other that the one I've listed?
I haven't seen many positive post but just wanted to say I have not experienced any of the issues that I have seen listed. Of course, I live in the sunny South and don't have to contend with the severe winters that others do. Don't know if that has anything to do with the fact my dash doesn't squesk, my key fob works well, the remote start works across a large parking lot and I haven't had a loss of steering fluid as of this post. So, just thought I would sign up and post a positive note to say that there are a few good Impalas out there and I feel like mine is one of them.
I might add I have owned Toyota's, Honda's, VW's, Nissan's, Ford's, Chrysler's and other GM products and I feel this car is as good as any of those and better than most. Just my 2 cents worth - Thanks.

quietpro · April 2008

As I understand it, the tire pressure monitors are strapped to the inside of the rim and can be removed and placed on other rims. However, i don't know if there is a size limit for the replacement rims so you'd probably want to check with a professional.

wesleyg · April 2008

wesleyg · April 2008

sorry for double post, hit wrong button.

long time lurker here but it seems I've read about this problem here. I have an 06SS with 17K and no problems really since new. yesterday driving in heavy traffic while leaving a stop light the transmission really slammed with the 1-2 upshift.

No problems before or since and the downshifts are fine. I drive the car pretty hard but never any abuse. Does this seem worthy of trip to the dealer or just wait and see? I might add about 4 months ago I checked my trans dipstick and found the level to be 1 full quart low from the factory, never any leaks, I realize I should have checked it long before that, learned a valuable lesson, never take this for granted that it's right when new. This fact is causing me to worry about yesterdays problem, that running the car for 12K or so at a quart low might have caused some now appearing damage.

awry · April 2008

Has anyone actually resolved this issue? My dealer tells me that the technical service center of GM has informed them that they are working on new calibration software to fix this problem. Software problem does not appear at 60K miles. They have replaced my thermostat which is a joke because the problem is the temperature reading and not engine overheating. I think they need to replace the sensor, but they can't do that now because they are told by GM not to replace any part until new software is available. I know most of you have been dealing with this year ago. Did anyone get this resolved?

quietpro · April 2008

Wesley,
There are a lot of factors involved in that slam you refer to. I have had an occasional hard shift but mine seem to be attributable to just the right amount of throttle and particular timing to get it to happen. I've either learned how to avoid it subconsciously or it was a temporary thing that may have been fixed by the car's computer. I'm not really sure.
Before you take in, there is one thing I'm sure of. If you can't replicate the problem, the service department won't be able to help you. So, I would suggest trying to duplicate the problem. If you can repeatedly cause it to happen, then you should take it in. If not, you're wasting your time (not a dig at you or the service department).
I would assume it's possible the the lower level of fluid may have caused the problem that one time. Now that you've topped it off, it may elminate the needed variable that allowed it to happen. As for any long term damage, I don't believe you'll have any problems. Lower fluid levels are anticipated and the various components aren't THAT sensitive to "minor" issues like that. I believe (but may be wrong) that if your fluids were at a low enough level to cause any real problems, you would've noticed transmission slipping. Rest assured, you'll have that thought in the back of your mind, though, and you'll notice any new peculiar behavior. Rest easy but also continue to pay attention to your baby.

I'm sure she'll be fine.

Ron

quietpro · April 2008

Another bonus of the electronic owners manual is that you can do a word search to find things. It's helped me find things I knew I had seen before but couldn't find.

impalasuck1 · April 2008

I have a 2007 Impala LS that is 12 months old and experiencing the same problem!! My dealer said they will only look at it if it is making the loud turn signal at the time I bring it in! It always seems to happen when I am far from the dealer or when they are closed. It only comes out full volume of what seems like the passenger front speaker. Have you found anything out yet? How did you contact GM, I would like them to become aware of the issue as well.

jnt · May 2008

If you ever have this problem again, do not turn off ignition and then drive directly to the dealer to show that to them. The reason is this is being intermittent problem and it may clear itself after ignition cycle (radio goes to sleep and restarts in every ignition cycle)

The chime and blinker sounds should be heard on the Left front speaker

jt

cdnone · May 2008

Thanks jnt...unfortunately the dealer has seen it on 3 different occassions...but that hasn't gotten me anywhere either...it's pretty amazing that you would know it's the left front speaker...that seems to amaze them....when it is happening I actually have realized that the radio is working...very very faintly thru the Left front speaker only...very faintly. Also the last time it happened I tried calling the cars OnStar...the phone doesn't ring...but if you connect you can again very faintly hear on the left front speaker. dealer is aware of all this, but........

eland · May 2008

ladyz,
I have somewhat the same problem,my radio just dim all the time. The dealership replace the radio 2 times. The radio display is still dim.
If you have found a answer? Let me know

ladyz · May 2008

eland, never found anything concrete. It does appear to be brighter when the sun is high in the sky. However, it's odd that it's very dim during my commute in the mornings to work and is very bright on my commute home from work when I work later than usual and the sun isn't as high in the sky as it is during the early afternoon hours. I basically just the heck with it. Something I'll have to live with because I'm not keep wasting my time haveing mechanic check it out. they've already checked once and as usual "can't duplicate the problem" to fix the problem.

awry · May 2008

Hope this is definitive resolve to the ENGINE HOT A/C OFF problem.

To define the problem,

Driver information center shows ENGINE HOT A/C OFF and shuts off the AC. It also kicks in Radiator fan full time. The temperature gage is reading Zero. The car is not overheating.

This is what I found out. What is happening is that the temperature sensor is not reporting the information correctly, which cause the computer to assume that the sensor is not working and go into default safe mode. In order to prevent overheating, since the computer is blind to the engine condition due to faulty sensor reading, it shuts off the AC and turn on the radiator fan full speed.

I had thermostat replaced which did nothing for the above reason. I don't even know why the dealership even tried to do that since when the temperature reading is zero, it is not the thermostat. Thermostat replacement should only be needed if the car is actually overheating. When I took it in next time, dealership was instructed by the GM tech center not do anything until the new computer calibration becomes available. What they explained to me is that when the sensor gets old, the data signal gets weaker. The new calibration is to be able to read the sensor, even if it starts to send weaker signals. After about a month, it became available. That was last week, the week of April 27th, 2008. There is, or will be a new service bulletin for this.

For those that got the sensor replaced, it was the right thing to do so that the sensor was sending full strength. However, the new sensor might fail faster than expected as well.

I got new calibration yesterday. I will be observing it for a while. I drive about 3K per month so I should have a fast longterm info. You should be able to get this done free of charge by the dealer.

I hope this actually solved the problem. Unfortunately, my problem was intermittent so it is hard to tell if this worked. I hope this will help many people.

painter76 · May 2008

One of the tie rods (do not recall whether inner or outer) in my 2006 3LT Impala (with just over 40,000 miles) is loose. My own mechanic says that the replacement parts are much better quality than what the Impala had. I bought the car with 23,600 miles. It had been a rental car. I drive mostly interstate highways and was told that the mileage is low for this to happen already. Has anyone had this problem?

ssrhino · May 2008

Same with my 2006 SS with 34,000 miles. Ruined the tires too. Tie rods covered under warranty, luckily.

jhines82 · May 2008

Yes, mostly likely it is the outer tie rods. I had to get both of mines replaced on my 2006 LT 3.9 at about 50,000 miles. It felt like my wheels were going to fall off sometimes while I was driving. I was also informed that the replacement parts were of much better quality. They were fairly inexpensive to get replaced bout 100 per wheel. You want to get them replaced as soon as you can to avoid other problems

wesleyg · May 2008

sorry for the delayed response, just got back from vacation. I agree with you, I can't get it to do it at all right now, so no taking it in, they'll blow me off. Just keep my eye on it, I'm still furious that the level was a quart low from the factory and at myself for not catching it for 12 months. thanks again.

gocasskings · May 2008

As I read this I have to wonder...... What would I be looking for if this is the problem. Something is going on with my car. This is the first time that I am honestly lost in terms of what could be the issue. I haven't been able to get to the dealership, but hate to go in and have them thinking they can convince me that it is something besides what it really is. I have played that game with them too many times. The thought at this point is that my tires were recently rotated.....NOT.

quietpro · May 2008

Someone correct me if I'm wrong but I believe you can check for loose tie rod ends by jacking the car (or putting it on a lift if you have access) and trying to twist/turn the wheel as it would turn if you turned the steering wheel. If it moves at all, there is a problem and depending on what is actually allowing it to move, it will either be the tie rod ends or (much less likely) the wheel bearings.

I'm not a mechanic but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night!

Kidding but I believe I'm correct about this. I'm not 100% sure about FWD cars, though, so I don't want to waste your time if I'm wrong.

I'm going to test mine now that it has been noticed as a recurring problem and I have 35,800 on mine. I have already had my ISS replaced and have been feeling some clunking lately...also have to turn my wheel about 5 degrees to the right to go straight.

painter76 · May 2008

I believe my mechanic noticed that a tie rod was loose when the car was on the lift for the oil change. He said that the Factory tie rod was poor quality in comparison to what he was ordering to replace it, and it did NOT have a grease fitting (which I gathered caused the problem). I did not have the other one replaced at the same time. He said he would check it with the next servicing. I might just get it replaced prior to that. Of course, now I need to go back to the Dealership to get the Tire Pressure Sensor re-set, although my mechanic did do the re-setting process. He thought that there might be a problem with one of the sensors. I have had it re-set at the dealership twice already (a good way to get people to come in). Thanks for your input.

painter76 · May 2008

Reply to quietpro #3283: Please explain the issue with turning the wheel 5 degrees to the right to go straight and the Holiday Inn express joke? So far the only mechanical problem I have had is the tie rod at 40k miles, but I am getting depressed by all the other problems I am reading about. Thank you!

painter76 · May 2008

My mechanic replaced the tie rod that was loose (left front outer one) and said when I had the next servicing, he would check the other. The replacement rod had grease fittings, that the factory one did NOT have and was about $90. If I start to notice what you mentioned about feeling like the wheels are going to fall off, I will be sure to get it off the road asap. I do not want to regret buying my Impala over a Toyota Camry. I was set to buy the Camry, but minutes after driving the Camry, headed to the Chevy dealer and took the Impala for the 3rd ride and it made me feel like it was the 70's again. Thanks for the reply!

gocasskings · May 2008

You may not be a mechanic, but I seem to recall many postings that you seemed to understand just a little about your car.

Sooo.......... since this non-mechanical female is not going to be jacking up this car and looking at anything can you tell me if there are any signs I might notice if this was the problem. Whatever is going on is probably the last problem that I will have with this car. I really think that it is being traded in the next month or two since my warranty is about up. This car has had way too many warranty issues to even think about keeping it. Yet, I would like to feel that it is a comfortable ride until it does get traded in.

quietpro · May 2008

I'll reply to all the questions about my previous postings here:

I was stating I had to turn my wheel to the right to go straight as a personal issue with my car. In other words, if I hold the steering wheel centered...to what would presumably be straight ahead, my car will slowly drift to the left. In some mild left turns, I can hold the wheel in the straight ahead, 12 o'clock position, and still make the turn. It's not bad but it isn't right, either.

The Holiday Inn Express comment is a reference to Holiday Inn's ad campaign. If you haven't seen one of their commercials, I'm sorry. It would take too long to explain.

As for the indications of a bad tie rod, I'm not sure you would definitely know what was wrong without actually checking it out but you could notice some "clunky" feelings through the steering wheel and possibly some issues with the car seeming to be tracking straight (with the wheel at a certain position) but then notice is doesn't track straight a moment later. This may be more of a problem on uneven roads or roads with grooves cut in them. Grooves will make any car pull in different directions, though, so please don't get antsy after driving on a grooved road.

Bottom line on tie rod ends is that they will allow the wheel to turn slightly even while holding the steering wheel steady. Basically, the affected wheel is a bit loose in the sense that it doesn't follow the input from the steering wheel 100%. It is a minor issue in most cases, but will affect the car's overall handling and tire wear. Many people would never realize there was a problem other than having to hold their wheel in a position other than straight to GO straight. That is why I've started wondering if this could be causing my problem. Now, I just have to figure out if i'm too lazy to jack my car up to check it.

imidazol97 · May 2008

>This may be more of a problem on uneven roads or roads with grooves cut in them.

Roads with gooves will really cause a car with out-of-alignment rear wheels to fight. If it drives nice on flat, newly paved roads and seems to wander erratically when on older unevenly worn roads, a 4-wheel alignment would be the place to start.

ladyz · May 2008

Hmmmm...maybe I have a tie rod problem. Noticed a few mos ago I have to turn steering wheel to left to go str8. During oil change had mechanic check alignment. He said no alignment needed and gave explanation about uneven rds. Hmmm....lot of uneven roads here in Mid GA! I think at next oil change I'll have tie rods checked.

quietpro · May 2008

Uneven roads will also cause the car to "pull" to one side or the other. The way I test to rule that out is by testing the car on many different roads. Most roads are "crowned" at the center to allow for water to run off during a rain. Curves are banked to help with cornering. All of these purposefully un-level roads will cause your car to pull in their respective directions.
Note: In the past (not sure about present day) some mechanics would intentionally set the alignment of a car to pull slightly to the left to counter the crown at the center of most roads.

If you are a person who notices these variations in the roads that you drive on, you will likely know that some roads seem to lean in one direction (usually to the right) and other roads may seem relatively flat. If your car doesn't track straight on the "flat" roads, it's worth looking into.

Hopefully this doesn't make this more confusing. It's not always easy to explain things that are dependent upon the "feel" of driving.

Good luck,
Ron

wbowl99 · May 2008

Should the fuel pump be making a loud whine noise? I was hearing a different noise so flipped the back seats down. I've done this before to carry things, but this time I'm hearing a rather loud whining. Could it be the fuel pump and should it be loud?

There is also a low roar that I'm not sure if it is a wheel bearing, rear end, or maybe a tire. Or, could it be exhaust? I noticed a rattling of the exhaust pipe and an uneven exhaust noise from the pipe from the outside.

The original noise I was listening for is a metallic sound sort of like a cheep that seems to be coming from a back wheel. I can hear it driving past a forested area or a center barricade on the roads with the window down. It seems to echo back.

Any ideas on any of these noises?

quietpro · May 2008

The fuel pump is noticeable but I'm not sure i would describe it as loud. It is definitely more noticeable (electrical motor sound) with the seats down as are any suspension noises (mine creaks when it's cold outside). Is this louder than you noticed before or are you just now noticing it since you put the seats down? Mine surprised me a little the first time I heard it (with seats down).

Any continuous road noise that sound like a grinding sound could be an indication of a bad bearing although that is rare. If your mileage is in the 30K - 40K range, you might be hearing more road noise than when the car was new. Tires get increasingly louder as they lose their tread. There really is no "rear-end" per se with a FWD car. I'm no fan of Good Year and your tires could be the culprit. My sister said her car was getting really bad (upper 30Ks) and after she got her new tires, it sounded like a new car again.

Since you're also hearing a rattling in the exhaust, you may want to look for any obvious damage. It's possible something has happened that you hadn't noticed that is now showing itself.

I know you've had a lot of "fun" with your car. Hopefully this will turn out to be nothing.

Good luck,
Ron

wbowl99 · May 2008

The noise I assume is the fuel pump is louder. I've had the seats down before and barely noticed it. It has been since the last service that it seems to have gotten louder. I think they changed the filter. For a while I heard the purge valve with it's loud 3-4 taps, but don't hear that anymore, although the mechanic said I should hear it all the time shortly after it is started. He didn't believe me that it had just begun after the servicing. Now it's gone again.

As far as the roar noise, I have just over 36K and it is the second set of tires. The OEM Goodyear's were worn out after about 20K when the belts started showing on the inside. Alignment (that the mechanic said I didn't need) and bad balancing got them. I also feel some slight vibration even at upper speeds that the mechanic says will always be there because tires are never completely round.

What damage should I look for with the exhaust?

Your right, numerous problems and new parts. I changed to a different dealership for further maintenance after the BBB hearing, but it didn't take them long to decide (or get told) that I'm the problem and not the car, even though they have heard and worked on a couple of the problems that the first dealership just couldn't replicate. I'm still fighting with GM over the car. I'm getting ready to make myself a big window sign that says General Motors LEMON and see if I can advertise for them.

quietpro · May 2008

Sorry to hear the saga has continued. I consider myself "fortunate" to have had only "annoyances" with my car. FWIW, I drove a Chevy Malibu as a rental last week. It seemed really solid and had a really nice ride. The only things I found that I didn't like were that the instrument panel was dependent on back lighting to display the writing for the various gages. This became a problem in low light because when the car still thought it was night time. The needles still moved but I had no way of knowing what my speed really was. If I owned the car, I'm sure I would've memorized the locations of the numbers but with a "new" car, it was a bit disconcerting. I must say that if I buy another GM, I will definitely be scrutinizing it closely during the test drives. No more suckering me...I hope.

Regarding the exhaust, my suggestion was just a shot in the dark. If you're comfortable looking underneath, perhaps even crawling under, you could look for dents (like something a big rock might make) and see if the exhaust is loose. It should only move a little...I'm fairly certain it is hung by rubber bushings/spacers. You may stumble upon something...perhaps even something left behind by the folks who changed your filter.

I know what it can be like not to be taken seriously by a service department. I have had two different ones tell me my suspension is fine but I KNOW it doesn't ride like it's supposed to. Unfortunately, it's not bad enough to be obvious and even the suspension "expert" can't feel the "wobbling" I feel. My car drives worse than any other Impala I've ridden in and I've driven at least 5 others.

I've learned something new with each car purchase. This one has taught me not to assume anything. Bose premium sound, better handling, etc. doesn't mean anything if it doesn't actually work.

Next time I'll be going over the car with a fine toothed comb before I buy it.

2006 Chevrolet Impala

Comments

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles