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Saab Maintenance and Repair
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Comments
So, now they are giving me another 2006 9-3 Aero, albeit in a different color, to replace the lemon that they built and the GM dealer sold to me.
Buyer beware is all I can say at this point. I take delivery of the replacement Saab in two days and will be driving it straight to a Ford dealership to trade in on a 2007 Mustang GT Convertible. :P
I am considering buying my wife a 1995 900SE convertible with the V-6 Automatic with 107,000 kms (65,000 miles). The dealer is asking for $8,000.00 CAN. Other than the usual, making sure all the switches and top works, what unusual things should I be on the look out for? Would this sludge issue apply to the V-6 and how reliable is the automatic tranny? Is the overall reliability stronger with this generation than with the newer Saabs?
Is the price too high or is it too low?
Please, all opinions would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
http://www.edmunds.com/tmv/used/index.html
As for reliability, my two cents is that the newer the Saab the more reliable the Saab. That seems to be the car's history.
I have found a different 95 900SE V-6 with only 102,000kms, same money and only one owner, private sale. He stated that they have driven this car in the winter. Is the 900 suseptible to rust, if so where? I live in Canada with lots of road salt.
Thanks in advance of your responses :shades:
What version of the IDM was prior to Jan 2003? What version was used after? Is the QP3 also the IDM?
May e mail direct at littlequeen78@hotmail.com
Well, true enough.
Today's frame machines should allow for perfect frame alignment; however, if you have bent sheet metal, the frame machine isn't going to straighten that out. So if the shop meant that straightening the frame may distort previously damaged metal even further, that's possible.
But it the metal surrounding the radiator and headlamps wasn't damaged, it should be fine. If these pieces were damaged you're going to have to get a hammer and pliers or whatever and make things fit.
The only way to get things right is to replace all the damaged sheet metal with new parts after you straighten the frame.
pjr3
http://www3.telus.net/chemelec/Projects/Alternator/Alternator.htm
I drive a lot of highway miles (25K to 30K per year). I'm at 60K right now after about two years of owning the vehicle and I'm debating on waiting until around 100K or 120K to get the full service. It still receives regular oil changes and I might need to have the coolant flushed in between.
Best thing is have it towed to an alignment specialist...the kind of shop that does all the alignments for local body shops and dealers...and have the damaged assessed and then weigh this against the retail value of the vehicle.
Expensive? Yeah, probably, sorry to say, but you could get lucky.
What you are looking for here is a TOTAL picture. There's no sense replacing one part only to find out that whatever that bent part was attached to is also bent. I think you catch my drift here.
Your mechanic doesn't really have the tools to asses the whole situation. The alignment shop can tell pretty quickly if they get numbers on their machine that are so out of whack that it suggests more than a parts replacement.
1. low tire pressure on that side (common)
2. Dragging brake caliper (fairly rare)
3. bent tire rim (common)
4. Alignment guy doesn't know what he's doing (common).
But do you have any other complaints about the vehicle? Such as, does it vibrate at high speeds or do you hear any strange noises or notice excessive body sway when cornering? All these are strong clues that help to diagnose the problem and thereby eliminate any guesswork.
I have a temporary tire that came with a jack. On the jack, it says I should consult my user's manual before I attempt to use it. Obviously it's a special Saab jack but haven't figured out it's operation. Need some advice on this one, please.