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Saab Maintenance and Repair

124

Comments

  • vahunter70vahunter70 Member Posts: 6
    Lo and behold -- Saab is REPLACING my 2006 9-3 Aero due to an undiagnosable iginition sequence and fuel pressure problem. Basically, they have no idea what in the world is wrong with my car.

    So, now they are giving me another 2006 9-3 Aero, albeit in a different color, to replace the lemon that they built and the GM dealer sold to me.

    Buyer beware is all I can say at this point. I take delivery of the replacement Saab in two days and will be driving it straight to a Ford dealership to trade in on a 2007 Mustang GT Convertible. :P
  • poorcruzerpoorcruzer Member Posts: 141
    Doesn't Saab use synthetic oil in their turbo motors? If so I'am surprised at the sludge issue. Any how, I digress.

    I am considering buying my wife a 1995 900SE convertible with the V-6 Automatic with 107,000 kms (65,000 miles). The dealer is asking for $8,000.00 CAN. Other than the usual, making sure all the switches and top works, what unusual things should I be on the look out for? Would this sludge issue apply to the V-6 and how reliable is the automatic tranny? Is the overall reliability stronger with this generation than with the newer Saabs?

    Is the price too high or is it too low? :)

    Please, all opinions would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
  • flyndrive1flyndrive1 Member Posts: 6
    Go to carfax.com and look up the 900SE. It looks like you will be good with the 900, but in light of Saab's huge failure with the 9-3 sludge issue expect your resale value to plummet. My $30K 2002 9-3 only has a trade in value of $7K. It's a fun car, but only invest in one if you can afford total loss of your investment. :sick: :(
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    You should try Edmunds "True Market Value" software to find a suggested retail value for this car:

    http://www.edmunds.com/tmv/used/index.html

    As for reliability, my two cents is that the newer the Saab the more reliable the Saab. That seems to be the car's history.
  • poorcruzerpoorcruzer Member Posts: 141
    Does the 2.5l V-6 engine have the oil sludge problems that plaque newer turbo models? Also after some investigation it has come to my attention that these engines were also suseptible to the front camshaft sprockets failing. Are the aftermarket timing belt kits, which include all bolts, guides, tensioners and the front camshaft sprockets as good as OEM? They are significantly cheaper thats for sure. Has anyone had this work done and how much was the labour?

    I have found a different 95 900SE V-6 with only 102,000kms, same money and only one owner, private sale. He stated that they have driven this car in the winter. Is the 900 suseptible to rust, if so where? I live in Canada with lots of road salt.

    Thanks in advance of your responses :shades:
  • reg78reg78 Member Posts: 1
    Can anyone tell me information about the parts relative to the IDM/IGBT in a 2001 Saab 95 V6? I believe it would be be prior to the QP3? If so, what was the version named prior to the QP3? What was/is the part # if I wanted to order one from a Parts&Service Dept?
    What version of the IDM was prior to Jan 2003? What version was used after? Is the QP3 also the IDM?
    May e mail direct at littlequeen78@hotmail.com
  • gabbana2000gabbana2000 Member Posts: 2
    Has anyone replaced the air dam on their 9-3? I have hit parking curbs several times and it is pretty messed up. Wondering how much it would cost to replace this?
  • joeymacjoeymac Member Posts: 1
    This morning I went to the store, car started and ran fine. An hour later my wife went, it started and made it there, but when she got back in to come home it wouldn't start. Everything works (lights,radio) and it sounds just like it's going to start but can't quite make it. A man said it's either not getting spark or fuel. Any ideas as to what I can do to get it started at least temporary so I don't have to have it towed.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    There a possibility you have a bad fuel pump relay which could be by-passed with an electrical jumper wire but it's kind of risky giving that advice over the Internet. I think a tow is really in order for modern cars. There's not much you can do to tinker with them curbside.
  • punkeyepunkeye Member Posts: 30
    My Saab was involved in a minor front-end collision. The first mechanic claimed there was no frame damage and the rails were still good. But it had some sway; i.e., wide gap between the right fender and hood. Took it to another mechanic who said because of the sway, it did sustain frame damage-no comment was made about the rails. It was put on the frame machine to remove the sway. I was told that if the frame were pulled too far out, nothing would fit right when I attempted to install the headlamps and turnsignals as well as the new radiator and aftercooler. Is this true? What am I really up against here-besides the proverbial wall?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I'm not sure what they are trying to say...it sounds like they are saying "If we do it wrong, nothing will fit".

    Well, true enough.

    Today's frame machines should allow for perfect frame alignment; however, if you have bent sheet metal, the frame machine isn't going to straighten that out. So if the shop meant that straightening the frame may distort previously damaged metal even further, that's possible.

    But it the metal surrounding the radiator and headlamps wasn't damaged, it should be fine. If these pieces were damaged you're going to have to get a hammer and pliers or whatever and make things fit.

    The only way to get things right is to replace all the damaged sheet metal with new parts after you straighten the frame.
  • punkeyepunkeye Member Posts: 30
    Well, now I am believing that there was sheet metal damage because initially I was told that the radiator couldn't be removed because some portion of the front end was pushed in against it. Plus the second mechanic commented about replacing the possibly damaged sheet metal. He also said it was a major repair job. I suppose that's the reason he didn't want the assignment. Thanks Mr. Shift, it's nice to know us folks with little auto knowledge can rely on your expertise.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Certainly it's all fixable...it's just a question of how much time and money one wishes to invest vs. the value and condition of the car. You may be right that you need to go to someone who has more confidence in their ability. Sounds like maybe the car was smacked harder than you first thought?
  • pjr3pjr3 Member Posts: 1
    I was interested to read about joeymacs problem since I also have a 1999 9.3, regularly serviced, one careful owner etc, which recently started to do the same thing. Turns over but won't start. I had the AA out, they got it going without any problem - but then the indicators and radio cut out while driving, also the hazards wouldn't work(though everything else was fine). got it home, but had the same problem next day - turned over but wouldn't start. Another AA man got it going. I took it straight to Saab who took nearly 2 weeks to decide that it might need something beginning with a D (Dio- something?). There is nothing wrong with the engine, it is just electrical.

    pjr3
  • punkeyepunkeye Member Posts: 30
    But now something else happened just today. I was putting the car in reverse and heard a loud clunking sound. I was able to back up and tried 1st gear that also worked. My question is whether the clunking sound could have been caused by not having the clutch depressed far enough before moving the gear shift or is the transmission on its way out?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    No I don't think clutch travel would cause a clunking...more like maybe a binding CV joint.
  • punkeyepunkeye Member Posts: 30
    What could cause the C/V joint to bind? Would it be that the drive shaft was bent in the collision? Now we are into drive train problem area and this stuff sounds like it's getting expensivo! Yeah, I know I should have a mechanic check it out, pronto.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    no, CV joints just wear out over time. It's like an arthritic wrist joint!!
  • michanniganmichannigan Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 95 aero with the same problem. It has been to the dealer once where they kept it for a week. When they returned it they told me they had found a bad electrical connection that was causing the problem. It's been fine for about nine months but has just started happening again. Did you ever get a resolution to your problem or is it still on-going?
  • punkeyepunkeye Member Posts: 30
    That's right. I got a light that won't go out after you lock up the vehicle. I think it has drained the battery; something has certainly drained it. The engine no longer turns over nor do the power locks work. Ok, my question. Can a short in the circuitry cause this little light to stay on and therefore eat up the battery?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Not uncommon for this to happen. Probably the ground switch for the dome light is grounding the light all the time, rather than doing it only when the door is open. Check your door switches that control the dome light or the manual dome light switch. Either one could be on permanent ground. It would take probably an overnight for the dome light to drain the battery though--it's not a huge drain like headlights.
  • punkeyepunkeye Member Posts: 30
    I replaced the battery because the other one wouldn't take a slow charge. Ceiling light is no longer a problem. But I am wondering about the alternator not functioning properly. Is there a test to determine whether it's defective-preventing the battery from recharging?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Here's a simple set of tests for you. It requires a volt meter but these are very cheap to buy and come in handy for a variety of home and auto uses:

    http://www3.telus.net/chemelec/Projects/Alternator/Alternator.htm
  • punkeyepunkeye Member Posts: 30
    Much obliged for the info. I recommend this site to all my auto repair beleaguered friends. You help to make it the superlative place it is for auto advice. Thanks again!
  • sarbmansarbman Member Posts: 2
    Hi to all. New to this site but not new to SAAB. I'm on my 6th. The one I have now is a 2002 9-3 Anniversary 5 speed (last of the hatchbacks) Just Lost the low beam. Checked the interior fuse panel = o.k. checked the relay box under the hood = o.k checked the actual bulbs and they look o.k. ANY CLUES anyone. "Just a quick point on reading that some Saab owners would never buy again. my last 900s was 11 years old and well maintained as any vehicle should be and it had covered over 500k. The only reason for not having it now is that it got side swiped and the Insurance Company wrote it off otherwise I would still be running it."
  • sarbmansarbman Member Posts: 2
    I'm sure this has been asked several times before but I am new to this site so please humour me! My 2002 9-3 5 speed covered 102K I read about problems on SLUDGE ... will I have this sludge problem on this model and if so what should I do? thanks.
  • 2004saab932004saab93 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2004 9-3 and have had low beam issues in the past. I had both low beam lights replaced under warranty and the last issue happened about 800 miles ago. Low beam went out and while attempting to replace it the bulb came back on. Probably just came loose. Hasn't been a problem since.
  • 2004saab932004saab93 Member Posts: 3
    Is this service really worth the $600 - $700 dollars the dealership charges? Just thought I'd see what the opinion is out there.

    I drive a lot of highway miles (25K to 30K per year). I'm at 60K right now after about two years of owning the vehicle and I'm debating on waiting until around 100K or 120K to get the full service. It still receives regular oil changes and I might need to have the coolant flushed in between.
  • punkeyepunkeye Member Posts: 30
    My front drive ten year-old Saab was side-swiped as it was parked on the curb. The left front fender was totaled but now it's wheel doesn't follow the right wheel when I turn the steering wheel. Plus the wheel sets on the ground at an angle-not verticle like the right one does. Something got broken but I don't know what. Can someone help me on this? And is it costly to repair? Stupid question, right?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Sounds like a suspension failure but hard to know what exactly...upper control arm most likely and possibly strut assembly.

    Best thing is have it towed to an alignment specialist...the kind of shop that does all the alignments for local body shops and dealers...and have the damaged assessed and then weigh this against the retail value of the vehicle.

    Expensive? Yeah, probably, sorry to say, but you could get lucky.
  • punkeyepunkeye Member Posts: 30
    Well, thank you for the feedback. The mechanic said it could be due to a bent strut, spindle or control arm. He suggested I replace the damaged part-which I will do. He also said the sub-frame could've been pushed over. If it's the sub-frame then it will never align. I don't want to think about that it's a sub-frame problem. Anyway, the odds are 3-1 in my favor. I am overdue for some Good Luck but I still have my fingers crossed.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Really depends on how hard you got smacked. A direct hit at 90 degrees to a front wheel can cause a lot of damage but a more glancing blow might not disturb the frame itself. Seems to be the damage should be fairly obvious on visual inspection but of course when you replace parts you still must do an alignment. This is why I suggest having the parts replaced at the alignment shop itself or very close by. There may be more than one thing that needs attention.
  • punkeyepunkeye Member Posts: 30
    Alright Mr. Shift. I am taking your advice as gospel. I will have it towed to a frame and alignment shop at the earliest possible convenience. I'll let you know how things turn out. Alas, the blow was in fact delivered at precisely the angle you describe. $$$$$!!!!!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well get an ESTIMATE from them with details and let us know.

    What you are looking for here is a TOTAL picture. There's no sense replacing one part only to find out that whatever that bent part was attached to is also bent. I think you catch my drift here.

    Your mechanic doesn't really have the tools to asses the whole situation. The alignment shop can tell pretty quickly if they get numbers on their machine that are so out of whack that it suggests more than a parts replacement.
  • saabcarsaabcar Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2000 Saab 9-3 SE with ~ 74k miles. I am on my second set of brand new front tires after changing the first set due to the car pulling to the left. The first set I put on the car was BF Goodrich T/A tires. The second set is a pair of Goodyear Eagles. I had the alignment checked and the machine indicated the car was aligned to Saab specs. If it is not the tires and the car is technically in alignment, why is my car still pulling to the left? Thanks for any assistance.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Some ideas:

    1. low tire pressure on that side (common)

    2. Dragging brake caliper (fairly rare)

    3. bent tire rim (common)

    4. Alignment guy doesn't know what he's doing (common).
  • punkeyepunkeye Member Posts: 30
    If it's not the alignment, other possibilities are: a worn or broken spring; something worn out in the suspension system(i.e. strut assembly).
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Oh good point! I'd check the control arm bushings, etc.
  • punkeyepunkeye Member Posts: 30
    Another candidate that nobody should've missed is the steering linkage. Could be a problem there too.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I was thinking that, but that would (might) cause wandering in either direction...but sure, why not?
  • saabcarsaabcar Member Posts: 3
    I will have a mechanic check out your suggestions. I overinflated the tires on the left side of the car and it still pulled to the left. So, I don't think it is that. I have alloy rims, do they bend?
  • punkeyepunkeye Member Posts: 30
    As long as it doesn't wander and pulls to the left only, the steering would not be suspect. My verdict is with Mr. Shift; probably something as simple as a defective control arm bushing.
    But do you have any other complaints about the vehicle? Such as, does it vibrate at high speeds or do you hear any strange noises or notice excessive body sway when cornering? All these are strong clues that help to diagnose the problem and thereby eliminate any guesswork. ;)
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I'm thinking it is something that will pull while the vehicle is under stress and may not show up in a static alignment.
  • saabcarsaabcar Member Posts: 3
    The car does not vibrate at high speeds, nor does it sway excessively when cornering. I do hear a groaning sound when I go thru one intersection in particular with a slightly elevated cross road. Could be from the struts. The car does not bounce up and down. It is pretty solid on the road.
  • punkeyepunkeye Member Posts: 30
    Well, I am told that struts and shocks should be changed every 50K miles, so at 74K it looks like you are long overdue. :blush:
  • punkeyepunkeye Member Posts: 30
    Anyone know where I can get one of these at reasonable cost? I entered a query into an auto service manual site and they came back with a price of $69.00 plus tax and shipping. I think they are 'giving me the gears'.
    I have a temporary tire that came with a jack. On the jack, it says I should consult my user's manual before I attempt to use it. Obviously it's a special Saab jack but haven't figured out it's operation. Need some advice on this one, please.
  • punkeyepunkeye Member Posts: 30
    Found a website in NY called classicgarage.com that has parts and literature for Saabs. Have a look! I've ordered the Saab repair manual printed in UK. Perhaps it will contain a hint of how to use the jack when you want to put on the spare.
  • punkeyepunkeye Member Posts: 30
    I don't drive the car but idle it periodically for about 5 minutes. Recently it has been throwing battery acid everywhere. Someone suggested it is being overcharged by the alternator or the voltage regulator is faulty. But would not it have to be driven for long distances for this to be valid?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    It could be you are trying to charge a defective battery...but sure, if your alternator is running wild, it'll cook up a battery mighty quick.
  • punkeyepunkeye Member Posts: 30
    Well, the battery took a 3 hour charge and got back up to 12.5 volts so looks like the culprit is the alternator. My question is if I wanted to replace the stock 90 amp alternator with a 120 amp, is there going to be a technical problem?
This discussion has been closed.