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Saab Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • 4thsaab4thsaab Member Posts: 2
    Where can someone get a copy of the 5/17/05 referenced letter?
  • 4thsaab4thsaab Member Posts: 2
    :confuse: When I start my car (2001 95 wagon 4 cyl 47k miles) I get a brief puff of blue smoke from the exhaust. Dealer service tells me it is just some oil from the turbo burning off. Valid explanation or problem? As you can see on 3k miles left on warranty.

    Thanks for any feedback.
  • richjrichj Member Posts: 1
    Has anyone had a problem with the 02 9-5 steering column. Mine had to be replaced once, and I am having a problem again with a giggle feel in turns.
  • chevycavgirl94chevycavgirl94 Member Posts: 2
    does anyone know how much is a radiator for a 94 SLAAB automatic 900? sorry come from a family of SLAABS WE ALL HAVE ONE LOL Just can't get away from them! :cry:
  • sashsash Member Posts: 2
    I had the same problem w/ my Saab 9-3 2003. I went to a Mr. Good Year and had them replaced w/ non saab parts (the parts were ordered through saab) however, if you don't pay for the extra expensive German Saab Brakes, they squeal like crazy. However, it turned out my brakes went bad so quickly b/c I had faulty calipers. Saab ended up replacing the defective calipers, but would not pay for the second brake job I had to have done b/c the bad calipers ruined my first pair and second pair. It might pay to have a non-saab place take a quick look for you.

    Stephanie
  • sashsash Member Posts: 2
    Please help me w/ any advice. I have a Saab 9-3 2003 Linear. (62,133 miles)Since taking delivery 2 1/2 years ago, it has been in for service for more than 60 days. It does not qualify for lemon status....Too bad!!!

    Anyway, a couple of weeks ago, the car started losing powering upon acceleration, and was slamming into gear when I would downshift. I was in front of a transmission shop when I noticed it and pulled in. They said it was too complicated of a computer system and it really needed to go to Saab. I went to Saab and they told me it needed a softward update. ( This car ALWAYS needs a softward update of some kind) They updated it charged me over $100.00 and said it didn't have transmission problems and would be fine. Today, I got a message that the Gearbox had malfunctioned and it had Limited performance available. They put it on the computer and told me it needed a new $400 sensor. They then told me if that didn't fix it, it would need a new transmission at $4,000.

    ARE THEY SERIOUS?????? Can this really be???? I drive this car like a grandma. It may have high miles, but I drive from Detroit to Chicago most weekends. I have never had a car need a new trans and I have driven many cars until they had well over 150,000 miles on them.

    If you have any advice on how to get some where w/ Saab, or deal w/ my service Dept. I would be so appreciative.

    Sincerely,

    Stephanie - sashley11@yahoo.com
  • 530ir1150r530ir1150r Member Posts: 263
    Someone in Detroit or Chicago either has a rebuilt or will rebuild your transmission. It has to be cheaper either way.

    Did Saab check the fluid level? Was the fluid ever replaced? Hard shifting in my experience has usually been low fluid levels.
  • d_d_everett_azd_d_everett_az Member Posts: 1
    I ran across your message and had to respond, because I recently had the same problem fixed with my 1999 Saab Convertible with 106,000 miles.

    The "Tighten Fuel Filler Cap" message would frequently appear on the (Saab Information Display) above the radio. A related symptom is that the yellow "Service Engine" light would come on. Using the code reader borrowed from the local auto parts store, I identified the message as P0442--a vacuum leak. I tried both tightening the cap, and replacing the cap but to no avail.

    The dealer determined that the fuel filler pipe had bulged out enough so that the tire had rubbed a hole in it. When this pipe was replaced, the problem went away.
  • jacke3jacke3 Member Posts: 1
    Bougnt two weeks ago. On driving home, I got 10 miles, exited the beltway (freeway), and on exit ramp, executed a turn, with brakes on, at about 15 miles per hour or less. Heard a rapid series of crunching sounds under the front end. Went right back to the dealer, but their tech could not reproduce the noise.

    Over the next two days this happens intermittently, but often enough to return to dealer. They could not reproduce the noise until I returned for a second time. Then the tech rode with me, took it to his service bay, but found no 'fault' message on computer. We drove together again and I couldn't reproduce the sound. This evening the dealer is working on it, and my driving experience is the loaner car (Corolla).

    The sound reminds me of a scraping of two rough brick surfaces together, rapid, short scrapes that stop when the car stops or I release the brakes. My '89 BMW's ABS system sounds somewhat like it, but applies only on super hard braking.

    Anybody got a similar experience?
  • skysaabskysaab Member Posts: 32
    SORRY TO HEAR YOUR SAD STORY.
    Mine also has the similar problem likes gearbox malfunction... but my dealer in westmont(chicago area) had ithem taken care of for all free. they are all covered by warranty. for my 2003 9-3 linear i have it replaced steering wheel column, gearbox fixed, key changed (yes, steering wheel lock malfunction so they turn out to gave me one pair of new key), some light bulb out. for now except the break and rotor, others all free service from here.
  • saabsarahsaabsarah Member Posts: 2
    I'm desparate. I've spent over $1500 on this problem, and I have NO MORE MONEY!!!
    I have a 1995 900 SE Turbo. I just got it about 5 months ago.
    When I first got it, it had trouble getting into reverse. The gear shift slides fine to the right, but it gets caught on something as I pull back and doesn't get into gear. Sometimes it shifts fine, sometimes it takes 10-15 tries.
    So I took it in and the dealership replaced the gear box. When I got it back, nothing had changed. Sometimes it shifted into reverse, sometimes it didn't.
    I took it back in, and they said some pins were missing....so they replaced those.
    I got it back again...and NO CHANGE! I figured I was an idiot, so I dealt with it for a couple of months.
    Then it started having problems finding 5th on the highway. (Great fun on the turnpike!)
    So....back again to the dealership. This time they said the engine mount was broken in half, which caused the shift linkage to wear down, which was causing the problems. (Keep in mind....I never felt anything break or change when I was driving it. It was always the same problem.)
    I just repaired those for $800. Got it back.....GUESS WHAT!?!! No change.
    It still doesn't shift into reverse every time!!

    I've tried letting out the clutch to reset the gears, I've tried putting it in first and moving a bit, I've tried going through all the gears....but the reverse catches as I try to pull back on the shifter.
    Someone, anyone, please help! I don't know what to do!
  • mlabellemlabelle Member Posts: 2
    Hi,

    I am in the same situation that you are. I took my 2004 Saab 9-3 to my local dealer today because for the third time, the engine has completely failed mid-drive. The steering wheel locks and the car stalls without any warning whatsoever. The service manager was extremely condescending, warning me that it is unlikely that they'll be able to reproduce the problem, and therefore unlikely that they'll be able to rectify it. I'm stunned that he seemed to be under the impression that I would just "take my chances" with this car on the road if they indeed can't find anything. I have never been involved in any sort of legal action, but I absolutely will be if they cannot figure this problem out and fix it.

    I'm wondering if you've had any resolution to your problem, or whether you have any information that could help me on the legal front.

    Thank you so much.
  • missvickieannmissvickieann Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1999 Saab 95. Today, when I turned the car off, it continued to make a humming noise. I opened the hood, & the noise is coming from a black cylinder in front of the battery... about 5 or 6 inches long, perhaps 2 inches in diameter, positioned on its side.

    The garage doesn't open until Monday morning, & I don't know what to do! Does anyone know what could be wrong?

    Thank you so much!

    Vickie
  • saabsarahsaabsarah Member Posts: 2
    Vickie,
    I don't think you should be worried about this. Often when it's really hot out (like summer), the radiator fan will continue to stay on after you turn the engine off too cool it down. This happens usually when you have been driving in stop-and-go traffic and there wasn't much wind able to be taken into the engine (like when you are on the highway). Depending on the car, some radiators are louder than others, but they all make a humming noise. It shouldn't stay on for more than a few minutes. I hope this helps!
  • garym1garym1 Member Posts: 1
    Hi,
    Just saw your post. have I got a story for you. Go get a beer and some chips. I own a 1999 9-5 and have replaced the following....DI cartridge, throttle body, sump, locking system, water pump, oil pump, battery, SID display screen, and I haven't even started yet.

    I live in Scotland, and in the summer of last year, I was driving to London, when my oil pressure light came on. I stopped, switched off the engine and waited 10 minutes then checked the oil level. All ok. I called my local repair guy whom I know real well, and he told me not to drive it 2 feet, and not to switch the engine on. He told me it was the "oil sludge" problem, and that the oil crystallises in the sump strainer at the bottom of the engine, thereby starving the top of the engine of oil. Apparently, the first thing to happen is your turbo will blow. Then your engine fails completely and needs replaced. I had to get it towed to a saab dealer where the sump was removed and the strainer cleaned, Sump replaced. All ok. 15,000 miles later, same thing. Towed again. Sump cleaned again. All ok. 4,000 miles later, same thing AGAIN! Towed again. Not so lucky this time. I lost my engine. It will cost me about £3-4,000 ($6-8,000?) to get a replacement engine,(used with low mileage) and that is NOT through a saab dealer, where in this country, it will cost twice as much to get a brand new engine. My car has now been off the road since the 4th Oct LAST YEAR. (partly because I had to raise the damn money) I eventually got my replacement engine, and I get my car back in about 3 weeks. So, whoever else may be reading this, this problem apparently goes back to 1998, and saab say that it was rectified after 2001. The situation as i understand it now, is that if your car has FULL SERVICE HISTORY and is less than 8 years old, Saab are repairing them for free. So I hear. The mechanic I use has been great to me for 12 years ( I have had 4 saabs in that time) and he has personally repaired, in the last 2 years alone, 14, yes14 9-5s and mine will number 15.....and 4 9-3s. ALL with the same oil sludge problem. Unlike you, I have not even tried the saab dealer, as my car's warranty had expired when I got it, but I've been told that until VERY recently, saab were just not interested in even acknowledging this problem. I find this staggeringly arrogant, and if had were in your shoes with a live warranty (is it still live?) and the means to do it, I would sue their asses off. I myself am a lawyer, but only in the criminal area. Hey...that might be relevant!!! Good luck, feel free to e mail me and keep me posted!!
  • jim75jim75 Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a Saab 9-5 wagon with 80K miles on it. Had the spontaneous loss-of-power problem, which seems to have been resolved by replacing the crankshaft sensor. I had the work done at the local Saab dealership. Upon getting the car back, I noticed an oil leak which wasn't there when I brought the car in. So I'm wondering if this is a coincidence, or if there's some way in which replacing the crankshaft sensor would compromise a seal or some such thing - would in effect cause the leak.

    I'm not certain that I completely trust the dealer to be forthright, so I'm hoping to get some answers here.

    Any info would be GREATLY appreciated!

    -jim
  • mace3mace3 Member Posts: 1
    When breaking there is a pulsation and serious bucking at high speeds. I initially thought it might be due to a warped rotor. However, upon checking both front rotors appear to have even wear as do the brake pads. I wonder if it may be a faulty caliper? Any recommendations?

    Regards,
    John
  • kenleskenles Member Posts: 2
    Hi Jim,

    I am afraid I cannot offer you any advice on your oil leak, but it doesn't seem like it could be related to a sensor replacement. My reason for contacting you is that I too own a Saab 9-5 wagon and it is having spontaneous loss-of-power. This problem seems to occur only when the car is hot and running at low speeds. Also we are experiencing intermittent loss-of-braking power at low speeds. You step on the peddle and it is much harder to push down than normal. Any ideas? Thank you.

    Ken
  • kenleskenles Member Posts: 2
    Here's another Saab story,

    I have a 2001 Saab 9-5 wagon and it is having spontaneous loss-of-power. This problem seems to occur only when the car is hot and running at low speeds. Also we are experiencing intermittent loss-of-braking power at low speeds. You step on the peddle and it is much harder to push down than normal. 2 trips to the dealer have yielded nothing because they cannot reproduce the problem. It occurs after running the car for about 30-40 minutes.Any ideas? Thank you.

    Ken
  • gezzagezza Member Posts: 1
    Mine is 1999 SAAB 95 the wipers have been like this for a while it does not stop it from passing the MOT test because the problem only shows in the Intermittent Mode (UP) I think the electric motor box has to be replaced.
  • saabv6saabv6 Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2001 Saab SE sedan with 69,900 miles on it, and guess what!?! It needs a new transmission.

    The estimated cost according to my local Saab dealer is...gulp... $4,600! And that's NOT INCLUDING LABOR!

    I have been in touch with Saab USA in Norcross, GA and the most they are willing to contribute to the cause is 1/3 of the transmission replacement. Saab only offered 4 year/50k warranty. Transmission goes, you lose.

    Additionally, I was willing to purchase a new Saab but was offered a scant $5,500 as a trade for my four year old vehicle. Insult to injury.

    I purchased a Saab with the intent of owning it well beyond the 60 month loan, but it's apparent that Trollhattan has simply become another Detroit. I knew the SE was the GM Opel-shared V6, but a new transmission at 69K? Are you kidding me?

    Are there any other Saab 9-5 SE owners out there who have had similar issues?

    No wonder Debra-Kelly Ennis and Peter Augusson abandoned this sinking ship. So will I. I've driven my last Saab.
  • erayeray Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I have the exact same problem...
    I just found out that my 2002 Saab 9-3 w/ 62K miles needs to have the transmission replaced, and I'm definately not happy about it.
    I will never buy another Saab (I've already had a lot of work done to it)...
    I'm trying to decide if I should just get rid of it and cut my losses.
    What have you decided to do?
  • mdaffronmdaffron Member Posts: 4,421
    Saabs have been notorious for transmission problems for decades. I bought a 1980 900 GLi in 1986 with 70,000 miles on the odometer, and its transmission was being overhauled two days before I took delivery of it. I took that as a nice gesture of making sure my Saab, even used, would be reliable for years. Well, guess what? One year and 20,000 miles later, I had to spend $2,800 to rebuild the transmission again after a bearing went and turned several of my gears into twisted hunks of modern art.

    Meade
  • pholliephollie Member Posts: 45
    I have suffered from the Saab oil sludge issue. I had to trade in my vehicle as a result. It died on the highway (my wife was driving) and we had it towed in. I was told that the engine had sludge and that it had to be replaced.

    Since it was a lease, I chose not to spend $6k for a car that was going to be turned in soon anyway.

    I gave them receipts but Saab said it wasn't enough (even though its the receipts they asked for). Also, there was a leaking head gasket issue that was a warrenty repair. My coolant was leaking into the engine. Long run, they didn't pay so I rolled a ton of neg. equity into a new car (a Saab with big incentives). I love my new car, but boy, it burns me to know that I'm ultimately still paying for Saab's sludge issue. Anyone have any success with fighting them on the sludge issue?
  • hunter13hunter13 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1993 Saab 900 turbo 3 door with over 196,000 miles on it . This is the older Swedish designed model, not the Saab/Opel/GM item. The Car has always been kept outside and until recently I had no problem with leaks, etc. Now, however, I have water in one or both foot wells after a heavy rain. I've done the usual checks on the sunroof drains, left and right, front and back and also the front hood intake for the vent system. Everything is clear and drains well. Checked the door and window seals too but found no problem I can see. BUT, STILL THE WATER COMES IN. Anybody out there have any experience with this. My dealer (a good one) has looked, but can't seem to locate the source of my problem.
  • pearson244pearson244 Member Posts: 16
    Had same problem but only in winter. But, only on cold (overnight) start-up.

    Dealer advised turn key to "on" position but not to "start". Wait for chime to ring 3 times. Then turn to start. Seems to work, I have 2001 SE V-6. :D
  • 8aa2ym8aa2ym Member Posts: 16
    Changing brakes is based on actual pad wear, not mileage. I did the job myself with about 80K miles on my car. I had about 2mm left on the back, and 3mm on the front... still not enough wear to cause the metal tab on the pads to rub the rotors.
  • 8aa2ym8aa2ym Member Posts: 16
    For what it's worth, 9-5 owners don't experience many tranny probs other than having to get software updates and configurations.
  • 8aa2ym8aa2ym Member Posts: 16
    Manual or Auto? What were the symptoms? Sounds like a rip-off dealership.
  • 8aa2ym8aa2ym Member Posts: 16
    Did you get it fixed? Go to Saabnet.com and do a search. Have you had our DIC (or IDM) replaced? Have you asked about the crank position sensor?
  • 8aa2ym8aa2ym Member Posts: 16
    Do you have one of those shifters that requires you to pull or push to get it into reverse? Does it need to be in reverse to park it and remove the key? I had a 97 900 SE Turbo that just needed (believe it or not) a clutch! You may not notice a bad clutch in 1-5 gears as much as R.
  • 8aa2ym8aa2ym Member Posts: 16
    Just curious... Do you use synthetic oil in your Saabs? This seems to be an unusually large number of sludge problems for Scotland alone! If I were you, I'd tow mine back to Sweden and document it. You could make a fortune on the story and offset your costs!
  • 8aa2ym8aa2ym Member Posts: 16
    You won't be able to see warped rotors with the naked eye. Get them inspected somewhere.
  • 8aa2ym8aa2ym Member Posts: 16
    Well... you've replaced the CPS. So you could try a higher octane/quality fuel. This has worked for a few people on Saabnet.com with your symptoms.
  • blckislandguyblckislandguy Member Posts: 1,150
    Interesting post, although a couple of things did catch my eye. I find it curious (and hard to believe) that an oil sludge problem resulted in you having to buy a new oil pan (the "sump").
  • anto123anto123 Member Posts: 3
    I find it hard to believe that the rotors (disks) are gone after 30K. Even if you wanted to keep them as close to perfect as possible you should still get at least 60K out of them Get a seccond opinion off an independant reputable motor mechanic. I have 165000K in an original set ( 4th or 5th set of pads)
  • anto123anto123 Member Posts: 3
    I would like to buy a year 2001 Saab 95 and drive it for 5 years. I do not want to risk spending 12K+ Euro on a car with a potentialy sludged up engine. I have read a lot of horror stories about saab sludge problems and replacement engines costing 6-10K. Currently I have a 1996 900 with 165000K miles, and it feels like it will go on for ever.
    Advice appreciated
    A.Saab Driver.
  • conv93conv93 Member Posts: 1
    I was having my car detailed when I got a call from the people doing the work. (I have had my car washed several times before.) There was a message on the information panel in the car that stated that my car had a steering column lock malfunction and I was to contact the closest saab dealer service center. I needed to have my car towed to the dealer since the lock is electronic and must be repaired by the dealer onsite. A new electronic locking mechanism had to be installed. I hope this is an isolated incident and not an eventual recall.
  • gedeyegedeye Member Posts: 2
    I've heard of similar problems caused by the fuel vapourising somewhere in the fuel lines.
    As the car cools the fuel condenses and the problem disappears.
    I had this problem on a Vauxhall Cavalier SRi about 15 years ago. It was OK most of the time but often took up to an hour to restart if it had been left for about ten minutes.
  • gedeyegedeye Member Posts: 2
    I'm thinking of buying a 2002 Saab 9-3 2.2 TiD hatchback. Turbo diesel engine with manual transmission. It's done 73,000 miles.
    Have any of you experienced problems with this model?
  • imblsd1imblsd1 Member Posts: 1
    I have no idea that Saab was producing diesel cars, I will be one to have one. I had a Saab ,89 9000 CD Turbo. Apart from the normal wear and tear, had no major problem. I drove it until I wreck it with 265,000 miles. It still did start and drove but many things were damaged
  • mingychoumingychou Member Posts: 1
    I am experiencing the same problem with my 2005 Saab 9-3 convertible. I would really appreciate it if you would offer some insight into your experience (i.e. has it occurred again? was the problem difficult to resolve?). My car was sitting in the driveway when the problem occurred. It had just been driven a short while before without any problems. When I tried to restart it, the car wouldn't start and the steering-column-lock-malfunction message appeared on the info panel. Have you since heard if this is a common problem with this particular model?
  • blondeblueblondeblue Member Posts: 6
    My 97 900SE Turbo with only 68,000 mi, is in for a head gasket! I am shocked. Car always maintained and as you can see does not have alot of miles. can't believe it, this is my 2nd Saab, could be my last. But, I have to say, I have always loved it. Handles like a dream, speed when you need it. Good on gas. Looks sharp. Sigh. Will see what the outcome is and then will figure out what to do. Any one ever heard of gaskets gone this early???
  • realamybrealamyb Member Posts: 1
    Gahh! I'm having the EXACT SAME PROBLEM with my '98 900SE turbo!!! It has been in the shop a few times as this has been going on for about 2 months and my repairmen are stumped. I had the idle control valve replaced to the tune of about $500 and it didn't fix the problem. Have you fixed the problem yet???
  • e85fane85fan Member Posts: 9
    I have a 2000 SAAB 9-5 6 cyl.

    I was driving along, minding my own business and both of my headlights suddenly went out. Both went out at the same time and there was no message on the SID screen at all. The fog lights still work, so we were able to see our way home.

    We checked all of the fuses and they are all fine. My boyfriend opened up the main fuse box under the hood and checked all of the wires. Nothing was loose or appeared damaged.

    We don't have a tech manual. Are there any fusable links or other secrets that we might be missing. Our dealer can't get us in for over a week and we need to get this fixed a.s.a.p. Last week our other car blew up so we are down to one car and only during daylight hours. HELP!
  • jetengmech31jetengmech31 Member Posts: 1
    I had a similar occurence in my wifes 2001 9-5 the front driverside headlight went out, the CID displayed that I had a front headlamp failure. Once I got home I popped the hood and removed the lamp cover from the back of the headlight assy.(the black circular cap, its pretty easy to get to.) Once this was removed I simply wiggled the connector and made sure it was plugged in all the way. The headlight came on. Have or did, you drive in heavy rain or moisture? You may need to clean the connectors which plug into your lights also you may want to consider applying some di-electric grease to the contacts.
  • bobveebobvee Member Posts: 17
    I have a 2000 9-3 SE with 67k miles. Car 90% of time runs great. Recently both the Check Engine Light and Transmission Limp mode indicator lights came on after routine driving. Sometimes (not always) the transmission would actually shift to the high gearing limp mode, but most of the time it seemed to perform normally with me being able to shift into the transmission "sport" mode.
    Have disconnected the battery and indicator lights are reset - car runs normal. Any ideas/suggestions as to the cause of this intermittent problem. Thanks.
  • anto123anto123 Member Posts: 3
    My most favourite car I ever had blew its head Gaskit. It was never the same again, and I have never enjoyed any car since then.

    I think you know what to do, you've already summed it up in one word ... 'Sigh' Its time to move on. Fix it for the next owner, and try a ... ???? Hyundai (Coupe )perhaps ?

    good luck
  • sskangsskang Member Posts: 1
    Hatchback runs good, but sometimes get variable "rear light failure" or "add coolant" display warnings. Ever since I got the car smogged in TX, the "time for service" message appears upon startup. Should I be worried ? How do I get the service light to stop,(did the mechanic trip some sensor during testing?) I just got this car; are there any defects or any important info. or advice that I need to know. Any info. will be appreciated.
  • gator50gator50 Member Posts: 1
    Did you ever remedy your problem? I bought a 1999 9-3 convertible on ebay and now it's doing the shimmy thing in the front. I have been told, a) broken motor mount, b) struts, c) shock absorbers - all by 3 different mechanics.
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