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If you beleive that you may have picked up a batch of dirty fuel, then your fuel-filter would have caught the crud and may be plugged up. It is not unusuall to need to replace fuelFilter due to a batch of bad fuel.
I assume that you are adding diesel-fuel additive at every fillup... this will keep your injectors, pumpe-duse pumps and other critical parts clean.
If you are NOT putting in additive at every fillup - consider it. The benifets FARRRR outweigh any percived drawbacks. It is easy to get additive at any Wallmart.
The benifets are;
*)lubrication for your fuelpump.
*)quieter engine.
*)increased MPG.
Do not confuse this with snake-oil GASOLINE additives. The diesel fuel in North America is too-low in cetane. Increasing the cetane to what VW recommends is a good thing. (Even VW recommends diesel-fuel additive!)
If, after reading the above you still insist on cleaning your injectors. Many folks have reported good results using "Lubro Moly Diesel Purge". This is NOT a "pour in the tank" product. It must be fed directly into a running engine IN PLACE of diesel fuel.
51MPG with nearly 200HP and is CLEANER than a stinkin 'hybrid' for the envrinment. This is why knowledgable folks chose a TDI over one of those 'hybrid' tin-cans.
My TDI can run all day long at 70MPG with the AC on and still give me 56 MPG!
If it maintains the same ratio (90 hp/155# ft of torque): 200 hp/ (would yield) 344#ft of torque!!!
This would be pretty close to the diesel MB 320!! WOO HOO !
From what I've read the 2.0 TDI coming in '08/'09 models is rated around 140hp and 235 lb-ft. Here's the latest review with an actual test drive of the new 2.0 tdi:
http://www.carpages.ca/go/roadtest/2009_volkswagen_jetta_tdi_prototype_road_test- .aspx
The sad part is the Tiguan isn't confirmed to get the 2.0 TDI yet, although there's rumors of two TDI's being offered eventually...one the 2.0 at 140hp and possibly a tuned 2.0L rated at 170hp. Or maybe the 3.0L that the Touareg is getting. Either way it looks like I'm stuck in a civic for awhile.......
Other gassers are 1.4 TSI at 168/177 and the 2.0T FSI at 197/207 or 227/231 and which appears in the Golf GTi Edition 30. Getting hard to keep up.
When it reaches this rpm the black smoke rolls out of it (mosquito killer).
Anyone have any suggestions for this car, it only has 248,000 mi.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Hickey
VW Jetta TDI delayed until summer of ‘08
Post a commentPosted on: November 9th, 2007
Filed under: Hybrids & Green News, Volkswagen
If you were eagerly awaiting the arrival of the Volkswagen Jetta TDI, you may have to wait a little longer. In a memo sent to dealers this week, executive vice president Adrian Hallmark told dealerships that the Jetta TDI sedan and wagon would not be introduced in April.
The 50-state diesel by Volkswagen has been delayed from spring to late summer of 2008. Reason for the delay? Hallmark said that the delay is due to “a technical issue that was found during the later stages of durability testing.”
The Volkswagen Jetta Clean Diesel TDI will be powered by a 2.0 liter 4-cylinder diesel engine that produces 140 horsepower with 235 lb-ft of torque. Volkswagen is saying that the new engine’s fuel economy and NVH will be significantly improved over the former 1.9-liter diesel engine.
http://www.egmcartech.com/2007/11/09/vw-jetta-tdi-delayed-until-summer-of-08/
We've had the 2.0 TDi 140bhp motor here since late 2004, so it's hardly new. There are still folk who prefer the 1.9TDi 130bhp unit, though................but there again, everyone loves something.
When it reaches this rpm the black smoke rolls out of it (mosquito killer).
Anyone have any suggestions for this car, it only has 248,000 mi.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Hickey
147 kW (200hp) @ 4400 rpm, 400 Nm @ 2500 to 3000
The "applications" for that engine is "VW Golf, VW Touran, VW Jetta"
With that kind of torque, it would be a challange to just start off in 1st gear without spinning the tires. Wooo Hoooo!!! Bring it on!
Here is the ref. for the specs. ==> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Volkswagen_engines#140-200hp_2.0_TDI
Check for;
*)clogged intake manifold.
*)N75 valve
*)turbocaharger vanes sticking. [VNT (Variable Nozzle Turbocharger) vanes]
In short, it is a good listing but should not be taken as definitive.
Currently after some 30 years or more, the diesel passenger vehicle fleet is less than 3% (7.062 M vehicles)
To contrast that with gassers, BMW M3 needs a 400 hp gasser V8 motor to produce 300 # ft of torque!!! Owners of course need to be SUPER careful as if driven per design, one takes the chance of (an almost exotic engine) grenading!! Care to swag what the mpg is with that motor?
The VW I-4, 200hp develops (430 nm) 317# ft of torque!! I am also sure that if you do not get into it, still does at least 45 mpg!!! It also weights app 500#'s less!! It is also infinitely MORE suited to USA/Canada/Mexico highway systems.
Do not forget that the power of the Wikipedia lies in the fact that anyone with the "answer" can put the details they know into it....thus making the Wikipedia a living document which tends to stay current and accurate.
At the same time, you must understand that somone put a lot of effort into making up that Wikipedia entry about VW engine options and the webpage covers engines available WORLDwide. I do not beleive that anyone suggested that the 200hp TDI would be available in North America anytime soon.
I would bet that the cost of having 2 turbochargers alone would add over $2000 to the cost of the vehicle.
HOWEVER: I know for a fact that International (Truck) has been adding 2 turbochargers to its engines for several years. This is to get the power and still meet emmissions. I know some folks that plow snow with these engines..... Plowing snow is easilly the most damanding task any truck can be asked to perform. Do not forget that not only is there a plow on the FRONT of the truck, there is also the WING plow that sticks out the side at the same time which catches the snow from the main plow and shoves it past the guardrails. Imagine plowing a foot of snow along 100s of miles of interstate highway with a dump full of salt!! (A very heavy and corrosive payload)
Does this mean that I want to plow snow with my VW TDI? - NO!.... but if subdivision of Ford (International) is putting 2 turbochargers on their diesel engines, then why not VW too?
Thanks
Glenda
I though I may need a block heater for the car
Advice please
I see that you have already received some responses to your inquiry. Since I often start my TDI below -10F, I may be able to offer some suggestions also...
Keep in mind that the VW TDI engine STARTS just fine in very cold ambient temartures (below -15F)
Contrary to what you may have heard,... incorrect fuel may cause it to stall after awhile... but DOES NOT tend to affect STARTing. A fuel problem tends to plug up the fuelFilter after you have driven for several miles.
Here are my suggestions;
*) REPLACE YOUR FUELFILTER. It is cheep and easy to do with just a screwdriver and pair of pliers.
*) CHECK YOUR GLOWPLUGS. It is very easy to do with an ohmmeter. (This Link will help with glowplugs.)
*) CHECK YOUR INJECTION TIMING! The #1 reason for hard starting is the injection timing being off a bit. Setting the timing as far advanced as possible and still within spec is the very best for ease of starting and best MPG. (Mine is set there and I get up to 56MPG!)
One thing you can try that is even easier than the above items is to "double glow" the engine before starting. Wait for the GP light to go out - SHUT OFF ignition and then glow again and start the engine. HOWEVER: this should only be needed when ambient temp is well below zero Farinheit.
I use one of the famous "TDI Heater" products so I can tell you about using this too....
*) It consumes copious amounts of electricity - if you do not use a timer, it will cost you a mint to run it.
*) You get heat from the engine significantly quicker.
*) It is only really needed below 0 Farenheit ambient temparture.
If your sensor is not GREEN in color, consider replacing it because it WILL fail. (it is a $14 part) It is pretty easy to change it too.
For clarificaiton - A "recall" is an official term which is often related to the Federal government forcing an automaker to 'fix' a problem which is deemed SAFETY related. A hard-starting engine is not a safety issue, thus it would not be subject to a "recall".
HOWEVER: A TSB (Technical Service Bulliten) is wider-encompassing and may talk about hard-starting problems.... Automakers are NOT required to even tell you about the existance of a TSB. It is up to the individual service departments to take the time to look for and find a TSB. (In my experience, many DO NOT do this)
I usually search for the recalls and TSBs against my vechicles on my own using this website. You can also use the Government website to search for recalls and TSBs.
HINT: Look for TSB# 2407-09 MAY 07 in relation to the engine temp sensor
Well I think the highly profitable truck market can absorb the cost a little easier. That's a $6,900 option on the sticker for the Ford trucks......just a few years ago the diesels were adding about $4,000. You can chuck $2,900 onto a $45,000 vehicle a little easier than a $25,000 one.
Jaguar use a twin-turbo diesel, (the 2.7 ltr), in their outgoing S-type. It's rated at 206bhp/320lbft and Jag is a Ford company - well, for now at least. Not sure what's going into the replacement C-XF but the first cars rolled off the line today. The 2.7 diesel is regarded as amongst the very best here in Europe. Not sure if you get this in USA............but suspect not. Same engine also features heavily, (very popular), in the XJ series. :shades:
My TDi days are over, for now. Moved upscale a little with a Volvo S60 with the 2.4 ltr 185bhp/295lbft D5 I5 diesel and it's a gem. I know you don't get this across the pond and that's another shame.
..."The 2.7 diesel is regarded as amongst the very best here in Europe"...
I think if you ask most vehicle consumers (even about gassers) what they consider the best engine/s in their segment, I would swag most would be quizzical at best.
I think in the USA anyway we will know that diesel has arrived when more folks start to talk as in your quote.
Right now for example we talk in terms of the best V8 being Chevrolet Corvette (LS series) , Lexus, etc.
So let us know about your new I5 turbo diesel!! All the best in your new set of wheels!
Timing belt was changed at 85k new Head My mileage was 48-53mpg before and Now its in the low 40s. dealer states timing is correct. How does one check timing on a TDI. I can do it on A gaser but TDI ? also whats the setting.
I asked dealer if they De-carbed Intake while head was off he said NO never have to de-carb.
Also why should I put H rated tires on a wagon that I drive at 55-70 MPH interstate
when I can put Low rolling resistance tires that are rated Traction A temp B rated for 90 thousand miles.
Anyway thanks in advance for any info
jon
We've had our VW Jetta Turbo Diesel for like 4 years now. It is a 2003 Wagon. I just had a few questions.
The check engine light came on two weeks ago and it was hard to start. Around that time it was around 7C (from Canada so we go by C not F) it didn't want to start very well so I brought it to the dealer where we got it and it had two bad glow plugs. Great like 200$ later on the way home. So two days after that the light comes on again. I make an appointment and I took it back today. It was the glow plug bar that connects all the glow plugs together. Or however it works. Anyways. The service guy says that they are harder to start from +7 to -2C than they would be if it was warmer or colder. Something due to the short time the plugs are on at that temperature. My question is, is that true? Or am I being fed lies? The car in the whole 4 years we've had it has never had any of the glow plugs replaced, has always been in for regular services and recalls. I think maybe there is 70,000Km's on that car.
Next is should we add something to our diesel when it gets cold out? If so what does anyone reccomend or should I just buy from the dealer?
Hoping to hear something :confuse:
Timing a TDI requires software and manual adjustments. And talent. Find a diesel mechanic that knows TDI's and he'll be able to do it with his eyes closed.
You don't have to run H-rated tires. They tend to handle better, but if you're a conservative driver, go for a T or S rated tire and you'll get much better tire mileage and all-weather performance (typically).
The power seems okay, I bought it with 75k on it so I have nothing to compare it to
I have read that Carbed up intake could decrease the power. I also hear that winter mix fuel and ULSD also can decrease power. I have cleaned Mass air sensor with the correct cleaner, I have ran Injector Cleaner SEAFOAM in a Half tank and Air filter is clean. The tires all have 44 psi around Using Nitrogen ( for what that is worth )
I into the area where the boost pipe clamps on seems to be about 3/4 inch of carbon in there. Seems that would need to be cleaned esp when Head was off !!!
I have to say When the HONDA accord Diesel hit here I am going for one !!
Why in the Heck would not the dealer De-carb the intake when they were there and able to do it is Beyond Me !!! :mad:
Jon
Since VWs are designed to run all day long at 85+ MPH on the autobahn... most tire sellers will only install H-rated or above lest they may get sued if a question arises about the suitability of the tires for that vehicle.
For example, Costco tires will not even consider selling you tires that are speed-rated below what their computer tells them about your vehicle.
The bigger question about tires is WHY THE HECK WOULD ANYONE WANT >15inch TIRES? They ride tougher, protect the rims less and are farrrrr more expensive to replace that standard-sized tires.
BTW: On my 2003 Jetta, I run Nokian WR tires.... In fact I run Nokian tires on all vehicles in the family.
http://www.nokiantires.com/en/DEFAULT.ASPX
1. Do you notice any mpg advantage, penalty or is it neutral over oem tires? I currently have GY LS-H's
2. What kind of mileage are you getting from a set? 50,000, 60,000 on up?
3. What is the UTOQ rating for the WR? ( GY LS-H is 360)
4. Would these tires be good running in more normal higher speed desert conditions?
Observation
I looked at the specification page and the WR tires that I would use (195/65/15/ 91H )have 12.5/32nds over the usual 10/32nds.
So for example all things being equal 2.5/32nds more can be a significant advantage.
I noticed no change in mpg going to the Nokians over the stock Continentals. I don't have logs in front of me, but I think I ran two sets of Continentals and around 80k switched to the Nokians. I believe the last set went on around 130k miles and at 160k when the Jetta was totaled they still looked pretty good. So 50k miles would be a fairly reasonable number and I drive aggressive. The Jetta with Nokians felt like a tank in the snow. I got in some snow with the Civic the other day and 45mph was a bit scary as I was being tossed around a lot. I was really wishing I had my Jetta back (or my truck.....lol). I don't know about desert conditions with the Nokians but they felt very good in the summer in southeast/midwest states.
However, if you don't encounter snow regularly (i try to avoid it or drive something else, but I don't want to drive my truck all winter just in case.....) I'm not sure I'd bother with Nokians. Winter or lots of wet driving really is their forte but there are other tires that perform just as good in the dry.
As for the main reason why one would get Nokians (snow/ice), in CA here we have a pretty schizophrenic situation. If folks are interested or will indulge me, as the explanation is probably not on topic, I can do my best to explain. If not, I can delete or so can the host.
When there is snow (where I would most likely go) in the mountains, the worst conditions require passing a so called chain control station. Now while we are required to carry chains for so called category one conditions, (just short of a blizzard white out), the realities are they will close the roads before that happens, to even snow removal equipment. Next level down, they allow snow removal equipment and if they do not have problems, would require folow on vehicles to "chain" UP except for SUV (with 4WD's). You can be required to chain up even Nokian equipped, up to dedicated snow tires. As I have indicated, they will let SUV's with 4WD with ALL SEASONS tires go ( with no chains). I can use an SUV, so have no real NEED to consider or put up to dedicated snows on the Jetta ,unless I absolutely insist on taking only IT. In addition, I would have to buy snow cables or chains. If I do not, I risk being turned back at the chain control points! The SUV also fits all the inevitable junk you have to or find yourself taking driving in snow anyway.
The Nokian dealer indicator shows the nearest to me is app 160 miles R/T . Now I know if I search, I can probably get them delivered and mounted locally. Probably the best would be continue north to Oregon and get Nokian's mounted and balanced and tax free to boot! But at first research they appear to sell at a premium. So given my tire history, I would be looking to a min of 100k from a set. So my take is that is probably dreaming!?
The overwhelming majority of my mileage was done on dry to DESERT dry conditions. I can almost count on one hand max two hands, how many times I have driven in a driving rain.
I am getting a measured 56 MPG on the Nokian WRs. This is better than I was measuring with the original Michalins... but a TDI engine takes a long time to break in and may not have been fully loosened-up by the time they wore out. Also, I run about 35PSI in my tires to get the least rolling-resistance.
I was VERY disapointed with the wear-rate of the original Michalins that came on my Jetta. Replacing them with the same tire would have been quite expensive and Michalin tires DO NOT HAVE A MILAGE WARANTEE like most other tires on the market do.
Incase you were not aware, the Nokian WR is one of the rare tires on the market which carry the SEVERE SERVICE rating. which are suitable for use in snow. These are NOT the same as "all season" tires which are not rated for use in snow.
Also, it is not obvious from reading the literature about the WR... but the "high silica" compound really means that there is microscopic powderd "sand" imbedded into the rubber. Among other benifets, this allows the tires to "bite" into ice where plain rubber tires just slide around.
If you are not concerned with snow traction, perhaps somthing other than the WR would be more suitable for your driving conditions.
Did you ask about any "milage warantee" on those MXV4 s?
I did not mention this before but one reason I am running Nokian on all my vehicles (including 2 daughters cars) is because they HONOR their wearout warantee without questions. I used to drive a 4-wheel-drive Honda Civic which tended to EAT tires due to the full-time 4x4. Nokian must have supplied me with 3 sets of prorated tires for that car. (I never paid more than $40 for ALL FOUR tires!!)
Nokian also makes the best snow tire in the world. I once had vehicle with the Nokian "Hakkapeliitta" (studded) snowtires and it would go anywhere I pointed it. I could drive around cars which were spinning trying to get up hills.
Now, instead of having 2 sets of tires mounted on seperate rims. I just run the Nokian WR year round. (I wonder if Nokian realizes they lost a lot of snow-tire sales when they came out with the WR?)
Yes. No is the answer to specific mileage warranty's for the OEM and over the counter purchases of the MXV4's. There never has been any warranty for those tires (among the other oem's) The PRIMACY (which bears the same MXV4 designation) does have a 60,000 mileage warranty.
Costco does have a boiler plate generic 2/32 in warranty in 5 years or such
http://www.costco.com/Images/Content/Misc/PDF/TIRE.pdf
Thanks to Sebring95 and you the input. On the next trip to OR, I will check out a dealer that carries these. It's nice to have a spare set of rims, so if it happens great, if it doesn't I just carried the spare set of rims for no real reason. Current online pricing seems to be app 118 each.
I will have a new fuel filter put in asap. gisela