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VW Jetta TDI

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Comments

  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    Yes I would agree!! Let the dealer do it under warranty. Let us know what they find out.
  • inlarryinlarry Member Posts: 13
    Oh, I intend to let the dealer find out the problem, I was just wondering if any other TDI owners had experienced similar issues. I've never had a car with such issues at such relatively low mileage...I mean my '89 Benz with almost 200k miles is still smooth as silk with plenty of power and has had nothing major replaced that I'm aware of.

    As I mentioned, I tried some PowerService DieselKleen additive, which helped, but only short term (which was confusing). As for the question about the performance, the car is smooth until I hit ~2000RPM and remains smooth as long as I don't depress the pedal past maybe 1/4....at which point there is no power, the car feels like it does a bit of light jerking, etc. I can't even max out the tach with the car completely out of gear...completely in neutral the engine tops out 500RPM below redline and declines further from there (to up to 1500RPM below redline during the few seconds I was willing to test that theory).

    The other reason I'm asking for info from other owners is I want to know somewhat of what to expect from the dealer...mine seems to have a habit of "oh sorry, looks like we can't find an issue" or "well looks like there's been this done elsewhere, sorry but we can't help. Take it back to the other shop" syndrome.
  • chevy49chevy49 Member Posts: 1
    had the timing belt an all related parts replaced dec 27 2007....15 days later
    the tensioner roller spring snapped off......(back side of factory part looks cheap)
    so ..had the factory part replaced jan 15....same part broken again jan 26..
    its a great car...but high maint...im now checking for after market tensioner.
    any comments welcome
  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    Hmmm, one tensioner I can believe going bad even though it's rare. Two? Almost sounds like an install problem or other issue. Is this a dealer? They're not usually the best at timing belts on TDI's.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    As stated before, if I had to guess, it would be the MAF. In addition anyone one anywhere anytime can get a batch of bad fuel.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I would put my bet on the possibility that the tensionor was INSTALLED INCORRECTLY. There are several websites which discuss that the possibility that the tensionor can be installed in such a way that the spring is overwound. This has resulted in the type of failure which you describe.

    This is one of the MANY reasons it is highly recommended to have a SKILLED, KNOWLEGABLE and EXPERIENCED person perform the delicate task of replacing the timing belt and related components. (Most VW dealships do not fall into this category because they do not work on TDIs very often)

    I would also bet money that you will NOT find an aftermarket tensionor for a TDI engine. The VW-supplied part is very reliable when installed properly.
  • blundyblundy Member Posts: 15
    2002 jetta TDI with just over 100K. C Timing belt was changed. I drive it something like Mario but somewhere near the posted limits. No issue with power, when it runs. In Wisconsin and colder than a mother in law's kiss but it usually starts, breaths a little smelly smoke and goes right along. Battery went dead as Caesar;s ghost and I had to charge it. Radio security system had gone dead a day before that at a truck stop and I knew it was some bug built in by VW from the factory and I would have to take it to a dealer and pull the radio with special clips which I don't own. After the battery went dead, I charged it, (proper polarity by the way) It charged and all systems looked like they were Go but the immobilizer is now keeping it from running. Starts, runs 1/2 second and no fuel at the rails. All fuses good. Need a code to get it running. I am an hour north of the nearest VW shop. There is now a small yellow light that looks like a coil spring in the driver information panel. No information from the owner manual on what that light means. Any ideas?????
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Let me get this straight... you drive a TDI for 100K miles and you dont know what the "small yellow light that looks like a coil spring in the driver information panel" means?

    Please tell me you are joking that you do not know what the glowplug light is used for!

    BTW: You asked for ideas.... I think you need to start with a new battery. And perhaps re-program the keyfob.
  • blundyblundy Member Posts: 15
    Sorry I didn't recognize the little yellow spring. I bought this machine last July and it is now well below zero and it is the first time it ever lit. As far as reprogramming the key is concerned, both keys will not work and two VW techines and one foreign car specialist who works on Mercedes, which they say makes the security system for VW, say I need the entire computer re-flashed. They also tell me every time I disconnect the battery for any reason, like buying a new one or if it goes dead for any reason, I need to get it re-flashed. I was hoping the good German techies would not have had such a dream but the techies I talk to tell me they did. This little glitch wil only cost $250. Kind of stiff for a dead battery don't you think? I love my Dodge more every day.
  • cosmocosmo Member Posts: 203
    I have disconnected the batteries in my 2004 Passat and 2006 Jetta TDI's numerous times and have never experienced the problem you are describing. I know bpeebles knows the older model Jetta much better than I do, but my experience is that after re-connecting the batteries the on-board VW computers reset themselves to the most recent programming prior to disconnect.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Whoever you spoke to is incorrect. Re-programming a keyfob only requires you to stick one in the drivers-door and another keyfob in the ignition. I have never EVER heard of disconnecting the battery affecting keyfobs. However, the radio may go into "safe" mode.

    Lets talk about the glowplug lamp some more... I believe your original complaint was "Hard Starting in cold weather". It is the glowplug lamp which will FIX this problem. You should learn more about the glowplug lamp.

    NEVER EVER try to crank the engine while the glowplug lamp is lit. Not only will your engine be very hard to start... but you may destroy the battery by overloading it.

    Your owners manual should have a section which discusses starting the engine. It would not hurt you to read thru it.
  • nancydemellonancydemello Member Posts: 1
    Hi, a mechanic replaced the battery on my 450,000km 2001 jetta. The temp gauge and fuel gauge have not worked since. Also the air bag light is on. could he have overloaded the capacitors by charging the new dead battery from a charger while installed in the car? Any ideas apart from checking the electronic control for the gauges? Is it possible to dicharge or dump the capacitors? How do I check to make sure the grounds are functioning as they should?
    Nancy
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Charging a battery while it is installed in the vehicle using a hi-power charger may perminently damage the onboard computer. (and other devices) Lets hope this is not what happened to your car. If your "new" battery was dead and had to be charged up... then you purchased a bad battery. A lead-acid battery which has been discharged to the point of being "dead" will become internally damaged. Its lifespan will be severely reduced.

    The best battery to buy is one that is stored on the shelf "dry" with no acid in it. This way, it is fresh and truly "new" when the acid is added before installing in vehicle.

    As for capacitors becoming "overloaded".... I am college-trained in electronics and can tell you that the only way to damage a capacitor is to apply too high a voltage... at which point it will explode like a firecracker. I do not think this is your problem.

    Your only real way to diagnose the problem is to hook your car up to a diagnostic computer. (Like a laptop computer with VagCom)
  • inlarryinlarry Member Posts: 13
    Just putting my two cents in re: the re-flashing of the computer after a battery failure/disconnect. If you read the manual in some older TDI's (older as in pre-2004 for sure, not sure how far back you'd need to go but it is mentioned in my '05 manual), the newer radios, etc. will "remember" their vehicle in this circumstance. Older vehicles required you to enter the unlock code when this happened. Not sure about the vehicle completely losing the info though, that sounds like someone wanting to make some easy money.
  • blundyblundy Member Posts: 15
    Not sure what happened to last message but will try again.
    Thanks to all who responded to my inquiries. I appreciate the advice but none of it sorked so far. I am aware of the glow plug light ...now. However, after reading through the manual 3 or 4 times cover to cover, i cannot find mention of the light. The only thing in the manual about diesel is a 3 page spec sheet in the back. It's like it is an afterthought. I tried the key in the door and one in ght ignition. Nothing. The immobilizer light is blinking to show me the car thinks it is being stolen. No fuel to the engine is an indication the immobilizer is not turning on the pump. Typical of the system.
    It was not a problem of difficult to start in the cold. It has always been a problem of it just not starting at all. The only commonality is that the battery went dead dead dead. Even the little red dash lights would not even glow. I am going to spin a note off to VW techies and see if they have any bright ideas. If I learn anything, I'll post it. Thanks again.
  • blundyblundy Member Posts: 15
    I think we solved the problem. A few months ago, (6 or 7) I had a new key cut and programmed for the VW. That was because when I bought the car, it had only one key, a flip out laser cut key with the transponder in it. When the battery went dead, I tried my original key and the immobilizer thought it was the wrong key and it was being stolen. When VW put the new codes in my new key, they actually made the second key the master key. So, I put the new key into the ignition and turned it on and left it sit for 20 minutes with key on, not trying to start it, Went in the house for a cup of coffee and came back and the new key started the car and it runs just fine. Then I want back and got the old master key and it runs on that one too now. I have no idea what that computer is thinking but it reminds me of Hal from 2001 space odyssey. I had tried the new key without letting it sit and read itself and no start. I guess that's the VW preferred way of reprogramming the system albneit with the new master.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    It is good to hear that you resolved the problem. It sounds as if you must have tried a lot of things before you get to that point.
  • blundyblundy Member Posts: 15
    Sure did but thanks to this forum and the advice that the jokers at the dealerships might just be worong, I decided to keep trying every hint I could find. Finally stumbled on it. Watch out, Hall is watching.........
  • sandman52sandman52 Member Posts: 36
    I don't know if you have gotten your problem taken care of yet, but when you say it runs smooth up to 2000 rpm, but then no power, and some light jerking when you try to accelerate, it sounds very similar to my past experience which ended up being the fuel filter. The first one was at 18,000 miles. I was surprised when it needed replacement again at 27,000 miles. Only thing I can think of was that I possibly was unlucky enough to have filled my tank right after the station had it's tank refilled, and a lot of debris stirred up from the bottom of their tank ended up in mine.
    Anyway a new filter took care of it.
    If that is what it is, it won't be a warranty item, so you will pay the dealer unless you do it your self, which isn't difficult. Best thing you can do is buy a Bentley service manual for your model. They aren't cheap, but saving yourself one dealer service will more than pay for it, and after that it's all money in your pocket each time you are able to use it to do your own service.

    Good luck.
  • inlarryinlarry Member Posts: 13
    Actually it turned out to be a combination issue...about 90% fuel filter, and a faulty MAF sensor. The dealer's doing the sensor, but replacing the filter myself fixed most of the problem.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    ..."As stated before, if I had to guess, it would be the MAF. In addition anyone one anywhere anytime can get a batch of bad fuel. "...

    Glad we could help in the diagnoses. :)
  • ranhranh Member Posts: 2
    I changed the fuel filter in my 2001 Jetta TDI. Now the engine won't start. Is there is a bubble in the fuel pump? How do I get the engine started?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    You need to "purge" the air out of a new fuel-filter. I do this with my oil-sucker pump (The hand-operated vacuum pump I use to change the engine oil) You can also use a brake-bleeder hand vacuum-pump to do this.

    BTW: It is damaging to the starter to keep cranking the engine more than 10-15 seconds. Also, cranking the injection-pump without fuel could lead to a VERY expensive repair. (over $1000 for the injection pump!)

    To get engine started:
    1)pull hose off of new fuel-filter. (the one which feeds the fuel injection-pump with fuel.)
    2) apply slight vacuum to the nipple on the fuel-filter... this will pull fuel from the fuel-tank and fill the fuel-filter with fuel.
    3)When the fuel-filter is full, you will start to get diesel-fuel out of the nipple.
    4) Re-install the original hose to the fuel-filter.
    5) Start engine.

    If you are careful, you will be able to stop sucking fuel at step #3 and lose very little fuel.
  • ranhranh Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for replying.
    I sucked fuel until it came out the nipple. Presumably that means the filter is full. I also squirted some fuel down the hose to fill it. Reconnected the house. Engine still won't start.

    Is my next step is to pull it to a autoshop and let someone who knows what they are doing fix it? I thought I was so clever to replace the fuel filter myself. Duh.

    Any other ideas?
  • dieselfitter1dieselfitter1 Member Posts: 42
    When I replaced my filter,the parts jobber said to:Fill it up with diesel fuel first. I did that and there were no problems. I had over 132,000kms on the original filter. I filled up the old filter with solvent and let it sit and shook it. It still appeared to be usable. Dont forget this is a BIG FILTER and is able to trap a lot of garbage before it gets restricted.
  • sandman52sandman52 Member Posts: 36
    I have used that same method with my 2 fuel filter changes with out any problem with re starting after.
    I just did the 4th oil change on my 2005.5 ( new body style ) Jetta, and your post about using the vacuum extractor for oil changes made me remember to ask this question.
    Are you tilting your car with jacks or something to get all of your oil out with the extractor? Each of the times I have changed oil I have extracted all I could through the dip stick tube, then removed the filter, and removed all I could by getting the suction tube way down deep in the hole in the bottom of the filter housing.
    After I have gotten all I can from those 2 places by maneuvering the suction tube any way it will go, I have then removed the drain plug just to satisfy my self that I am getting all the old oil out with the extractor.
    Each time I have still gotten a considerable amount of oil from the pan when the plug is removed. This last time I collected the oil, and poured it back into an empty 1 liter oil bottle, and it measured nearly 800 ml. That is lot more than I am comfortable leaving in to contaminate the new oil.
    I do have a grease pit in my garage, so I am not jacking the front end up or driving it up on ramps, so was wondering if that angle is required to get all the oil to where the extractor tip can reach it.
    Just wondering if there is some trick to getting it all out with the extractor? :confuse:
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I am not aware of any "trick" to getting all the oil. I get as much as I can using the same tecnicques you describe. VW even condones using a sucker to replace the oil... so it is good enough for me.

    I can tell you that my oul-sucker has graduated marks on the side of it and I always get nearly all of the oil out using that as a guide. Perhaps since my driveway is slightly tilted twards the drivers side of the car it helps?
  • jetta7jetta7 Member Posts: 17
    If your TDI has a fuel filter about the size of a one pound coffee can, the air bubble is in the filter itself. Before installing the new filter, you must add fuel to it by pouring it into the filter, otherwise, you have all of that air in the system. This is called, " priming the filter."
    Now with the air already in the system, you can hold down the accelerator pedal while cranking the engine until the engine starts. This may take several minutes, but it will start.
    Jetta 7
  • jetta7jetta7 Member Posts: 17
    I do not use an extractor, I drive my jetta up on Rhino Ramps, which raises the front of the car about 5 to 6 inches. I then remove the drain plug from the oil pan to drain the oil, which drains very quickly. This get just about all of the oil out of the engine. I then remove the oil filter cartridge and replace with a new one. This is sufficient for a good oil change.
    Jetta 7
  • jetta7jetta7 Member Posts: 17
    It is not advisable to try to clean and reuse a fuel filter. Every mechanical part on the vehicle has a life cycle. Though parts may appear to be in good shape, they might not have much service left. It is a gamble as to how much farther you can go before a failure. You don't want to be on some dark back road and have a break down. It is better to change the parts when the manual calls for it.
  • jetta7jetta7 Member Posts: 17
    I have been reading a lot of messages about fuel filters, but I don't read about anyone periodically draining the water accumulation from the filter. This is done by loosening the filter clamp and raising the filter up so that the dain plug can be unscrewed. In doing so, the filter can be purged of water. This drain is located on the bottom of the filter. This should be done, especially before cold weather.
    Jetta 7
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    Upshot: do not worry too much about getting every last bit of oil out.

    Here is the backwards explanation.

    I do not have my (Jetta TDI 2003) Bentley's handy, but the difference between the so called "dry fill" and the normal replacement oil used (specified in the owners manual/Bentley's, are a reliable indication that unless you tear down the system back far enough, one will not remove close to ALL the oil. Be that as it may, the additional "problem" is hinted at; given the oem's owners manual on how to take a "proper" oil level reading. My oem manual indicates that upon shut down, I have "several" minutes to take a "reliable" oil level reading. So if I get a level between min and max, I am good to go. So if it does fall between min and max, it is easy to see there is some variance right there. I have come to rely more on the "overnight" reading that if you tend to check these things closely and make sure it is at full, the overnight level rises higher than the oem procedure of several mins after engine shut down and checking between min and max. Indeed overnight the level rises to the bottom of the crook in the dipstick if one tends to keep it close to max, using the oem recommended procedure. So here is the conundrum, if you drain it after heating up the oil, there is a portion that will not hit the oil pan until close to overnight has passed.

    So to make a long story short, I use the extractor. The measurements on the side of the extractor indicate I get out app 1.5 gals and have on every oil change. In addition since I recycle in "specified gal containers, I put out almost precisely 1.5 gals for the recycle truck. I put in 4 qtrs (1 gal) and back fill the .5 gal after I take the overnight measure. The other cue is I fill it to the crook of the dipstick.
  • sandman52sandman52 Member Posts: 36
    Thanks for the reply.
    I just thought I may have missed something in the extraction process that would have gotten more of the old oil out.
    Since I'm sticking with the recommended oil change interval of 10,000 miles, it's not something I'm doing frequently enough that spending the extra 5 minutes to remove & replace the skid plate, and pull the drain plug out is something I mind doing, especailly when I have the grease pit to drive over, so I guess I'll just keep on doing it that way, knowing that I've gotten that extra 20% the old oil volume out and save the extractor for other uses. I guess we all have our own little anal retentive issues. ;)
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    I am glad the perspective is useful, whether you alter your routine or not.

    Even after 102,000 miles, I am still amazed how nifty the extractor method of oil change remains . I have been and continue doing the required visual inspection cycles, so I STILL jack it up.
  • hypnosis44hypnosis44 Member Posts: 483
    My friends 2002 TDI failed to start one morning and was towed to her independent VW repair center. The car had returned two days earlier from a trip to Mammoth and back to LA. She usually runs 10% BD - but filled up in Mammoth with the usual diesel.

    So far the techs determined that "The system governing the glow plugs had failed and had burnt out the glow plugs". All replaced and repaired for about $450.00 It ran one day and then had the same problem - same towing.

    Now they have determined that there is air in the fuel system and are claiming to purge it from the gas tank forward saying this will take at least five hours = $350.00.

    Does this all sound Kosher?
  • jkinzeljkinzel Member Posts: 735
    Wow, long time I think. I have never purged a VW but a D398 Cat can be done in 30 minutes or less. Kind of Apples to oranges.
  • dieselfitter1dieselfitter1 Member Posts: 42
    Not starting the next morning sounds like the EGR Valve stuck open. What happens is that it gets carboned up.The reason it wont start is because air is bypassing the airflow sensor and going though the EGR valve. This causes the computer to think thatthere is no air,so it does not supply fuel. Looking from the front of the engine,it is located on the top of the engine on the left(passenger side) close to the firewall.A good tap with a piece of wood will more than likely unstick it. This kept happening on my '02 TDI and I disconnected the vacumn line that controlls it. If you do this,after about 40 kms the engine lite will come on,but so what. The EGR system just clogs up the intake box with carbon.You have to drive like Mario Andretti all the time to keep the carbon from building up. I have seen units so clogged up that the car starts to lose power. The cleaning job is about $400 to fix!!

    Thats my take on the EGR Valve. I think your friend got RIPPED OFF!
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    It is disheartening to hear dealers just throwing parts at the problem.
  • eliaselias Member Posts: 2,209
    a good-faith dealership would refund some or all of the money from the useless/misguided work they did, applying it towards whatever they try next,
    until they figure it out. at a minimum they should refund every dime of the markup on the new parts. aside from all that, the mechanics seem to be inept at fixing TDIs, probably it's best to find another mechanic at another dealer or independent shop.
    If I recall correctly, Leviticus did prohibit inept misdiagnosis of TDIs, so to answer the original question: no it is certainly not kosher.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    Yes, I am sure that after this episode gets corrected, the best thing to do is to research one's local VW TDI guru/independent shop for a minimum of TDI engine related to all future trouble shooting and/or scheduled and unscheduled maintenance.

    A good place to get on the trail is link title
  • hypnosis44hypnosis44 Member Posts: 483
    "Leviticus did prohibit inept misdiagnosis of TDIs, so to answer the original question: no it is certainly not kosher."

    Was that number 587 or 588?

    Thanks to everyone for the help. I will pass it along.
  • jettajanejettajane Member Posts: 3
    You mentioned that you had to call to find out which fuse was for the radio . . . the radio in my 2002 Jetta TDI hasn't been working for a couple months. Can you tell me what you found out about the fuse . . . hopefully where it is and how to get to it.
  • jettajanejettajane Member Posts: 3
    My radio stopped working about 6 weeks ago. I have posted a couple messages in terms of whether there is a fuse for the radio and where it is and have gotten several different answers. If anyone knows where the fuse is and how to get to it, I would appreciate the help!!
  • 1ofthegoodguyz1ofthegoodguyz Member Posts: 1
    My 04 VW Jetta TDI manual 5 spd. engine stalls when the brakes are applied. The problem is intermittent. Does anyone know what could be causing this?
    Thank you.
  • blundyblundy Member Posts: 15
    find the fuse panel on the left end of the dashboard. Pull the card that located fuse numbers. Pull fuse #42 and wait for 5 to 10 seconds. Replace the fuse. (Small minifuse. Use needle nose or plastic puller found in fuse panel clip.) If this does not work, the radio needs to come out with special clips. VW has them and so do radio specialty shops. There is a Tech Bulletin, Grpoup 91, number 02-01 dated January 14, 2002. VW should be able to fix it for free. if they don't, ask them to look up the TSB. It is not all that unusual. Sure is frustrating.....Good luck
  • blundyblundy Member Posts: 15
    I hope you will forgive a novice in VW diesels, but LA is a nice warm place. So what does she need glow plugs for? I am in Wisconsin and my little glow plug light doesn't even turn on until the temperature is in the baement (and our basement is pretty far down.) So if the glow plug circuit fails, will that stop the engine from running in otherwise warm weather? Is it maybe a case of a garage wanting to change the hydraulic muffler throwout bearing next? I could sure use some clarification here. Thanks.
  • goodjanegoodjane Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 Jetta TDI wagon, 145,000 km and I am driving with the yellow engine light on. Apparently the sensor on the turbo is malfunctioning and I am told that the repair is close to $2000.00.

    Any wise one out there with advice, experience.....I am currently about to negotiate with the VW Customer Care people and I would love to know what I should be saying.

    Many thanks!! :)
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    $2000!!! You could get a BRAND NEW turbocharger for that kind of moola.

    If it really is a "sensor" then the part cant be more than a could hundred bucks tops.

    My own personal thoughts.... they are full of cr@p because there are no "sensors" on the turbocharger. If they really mean that the VNT vanes on the turbocharger are sticking... there are ways to correct that situation for less than $2000.
  • eliaselias Member Posts: 2,209
    VW TDI does NOT need glowplugs to keep runnin but it sure will warm/run better after startup in cold weather with the glowplugs lit. in frigid Sconsin weather the glowplugs absolutely help to warm up engine near optimum temp much faster.
    also you Sconsonians are pretty advanced with the hydraulic mufller bearing,
    and with the throwout too. the workmanship is outstanding on those.
  • eliaselias Member Posts: 2,209
    on a TDI, practically no matter what the ailment, always change the fuel filter first.
    taillight burns out? change fuel filter. windshield washer low? change fuel filter. thursday? change fuel filter.
    really it is not uncommon to have to swap the fuel filter more often than the recommended interval.
    in your case its gotta be a fuel system problem. i've seen mention of same problem before being a clogged fuel-return line - the TDIs have fuel flowing in 2 directions at once, into and out of the tank. if the return line is blocked then sometimes the pressure in the forward line isn't always going to be adequate. I wonder if sludge is sold as diesel fuel in USA sometimes. and with the prices so ridiculous this winter, who knows what ancient tanks of 500 ppm crap diesel some retailers are unearthing.
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