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VW Jetta TDI

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Comments

  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I agree! It bears mentioning once again to ALWAYS purchase diesel fuel where it "flows like wine". Any place where you see big trucks filling up all day long is perfect.

    A backroad gas station which happens to also sell diesel fuel is NOT a good choice. As diesel ages, a nasty form of mold can grow in it and plug up your fuel filter quickly.

    This is NOT a problem with your fuel filter. In fact, it has done its job and should be retired with honor since it has saved your very expensive injection pump from becoming trashed.

    Also a friendly reminder to ALWAYS add diesel-fuel additive with every fillup. The benifets of diesel-additives have been proclaimend extensevly in these very forums.
  • jaxs1jaxs1 Member Posts: 2,697
    Things like that are why the new 2009 TDI is not going to be mainstream.
    Way too much maintenance. Frequent fuel filter changes, having to pour fuel additives in with every fillup, plus urea refilling.
    What a hassle.
    Diesel will be like Linux for cars.
  • siberiasiberia Member Posts: 520
    Woodhouse of Blair NE claims to sell more pickups than any other dealer in the US. They sell so many diesel Fords and Dodges to farmers that they hold free diesel seminars. They used to recommend buying all diesel fuel from large and busy truck stops but have changed their recommendation to buying it from newer stations that sell diesel and do not service semis. It is too easy to dump used oil into the diesel storage tanks and if a company wants to get rid of some substandard diesel it is in and out more quickly at a truck stop where the big rigs can handle it much better.
  • cosmocosmo Member Posts: 203
    "Way too much maintenance. Frequent fuel filter changes, having to pour fuel additives in with every fillup, plus urea refilling."

    Oil changes every 10K miles. Fuel filter changes every 20K miles. No fuel additive will be needed with common rail fuel injection and ULSD. No urea will be needed in the Jetta and New Beetle models.

    If the majority of Europeans are now buying cars that require that much maintenance, Americans should be able to eventually adapt.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    ..."Things like that are why the new 2009 TDI is not going to be mainstream.
    Way too much maintenance. Frequent fuel filter changes, having to pour fuel additives in with every fillup, plus urea refilling.
    What a hassle.
    Diesel will be like Linux for cars. "....

    I am not sure what mainstream means to you, but for sure that is absolutely true!! So if we start from the fact the US DIESEL passenger vehicle fleet is less than 2% (AFTER 30 years!!??) with most of that 2% being US 2/3 series trucks (250,350, 2500.3500) (251.4 M passenger vehicle fleet) there are indeed FEW (vol and %) VW diesels on the road ! Yearly overall new passenger vehicle fleet SALES are app 16-17 M. So the path from miniscule to mainstream (pick whatever % that means to you; and do the math) will be through the yearly sales vol & % that are diesel/s.

    If history is any gauge, (my) 100,000 miles on a diesel, I do 25,000 mile OCI's (very conservative I might add) vs more normal 3/5 k gasser OCI's. The math indicates 4/5 OCI's vs 20 to 34 OCI's. Fuel filters while I know the OEM recommendation of 20k, I @ 60,000 miles. As for fuel additives I do add them. I keep a 16 oz bottle in the compartment on the inside of the trunk right up against the fuel neck opening. but the oem does NOT recommend them.. The amount needed is like app 2 tablespoons so I just wing it like a swig from a pocket flask (not that I carry a pocket flask or swig fuel additives) Due to no fault of my own, fuel mileage is the highest it has ever been. :)

    MB has mentioned it chose the UREA route to over come short term considerations in the EPA approval process/procedures. Indeed my understanding is those with UREA are rent to leaseable only. VW's will not require UREA systems.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I really dont know or care about what "mainstream" means.... but how can you possibly say a TDI needs "Way too much maintenance"?

    Lets review for a moment;
    *) A TDI does not have an ignition system. This means NEVER EVER replacing a sparkplug or other ignition components that gassers need replaced.
    *) OilChangeInterval (OCI) as mentioned above are 10K miles.
    *)Fuel FIlter change is 20K miles
    *)With at least 700 miles per tank of fuel, Fuel stops are a monthly occourance for me. It is NOT a hassle to put a spash of additive in the tank once a month in order to maintain over 50MPG.

    If you feel it is a "hassle" to spend 30 seconds to add over 50 miles per tank of fuel - it is YOUR loss.... but certanly does not rise to the level of a "hassle".

    Your analagy of LINUX may be a good one. It costs signifinatly less than uSoft products... but is more secure, reliable and desirable to the folks that KNOW computer operating systems. Lets not forget it is UNIX based operating systems that run the entire internet. Sorta like Diesel trucks, locomotives and ocean Liners that keep the enconomy going.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    I lifted this link from a link in WWW.TDICLUB.com

    December 7, 2007

    First Drive: 2009 Volkswagen Jetta TDI

    2009 Volkswagen Jetta TDI. Click image to enlarge
    Review and photos by Greg Wilson

    Discuss this story in the forum at CarTalkCanada

    Photo Gallery:
    2009 Volkswagen Jetta TDI

    link title
  • brighterfuturebrighterfuture Member Posts: 2
    I read the other posts that are similiar to mine but I still can't start my car up. :cry: I bought this car a couple of weeks ago, it has 187,500 miles on it. It idled a little rough but other than that it ran great. So I made some "biodiesel" and drove it around, still ran great.

    Went to change out the fuel filter and I didn't have the right one so I just drained the old one and filled it back up with diesel. Tried to start the engine, won't start. Pumped the air out of the lines with a Mityvac, won't start. Pumped out the lines again and again and again. Still won't start. :mad:

    So now the battery is starting to run low... took it to Autozone to be tested and it passed but it has a low charge, left it there to charge up. Looked at the wires on the battery and there's some corrosion on the main connection to the fuse panel thing on top of the battery. So I'm going to clean those up, pick up the battery and try to start it again. I doubt it will work so any suggestions on what else I should do? Thanks in advance.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    You drained and reused the OLD fuel-filter??? Why-oh-why did you do that? You would have been better off to just leave the old filter in there.

    Now, you may have got some gunk into the injection pump (IP). Do you realize that even ONE DROP of water can ruin the IP or an injector? (Why do you think the fuel-filter is so huge?)

    *)First things first... INSTALL A NEW FILTER!
    *)Then, make CERTAIN there are no air leaks where the IP can suck air.
    *)Next make sure there is fuel in the loop between the filter and the IP.

    If there is no fuel in this loop, the IP can be destroyed by grinding dry without fuel for lubrication.

    And never-ever grind the starter for more than 20 seconds at a time without several minutes of cooldown. Otherwise you may be replacing starter soon.
  • vwinvavwinva Member Posts: 71
    TDIparts.com is offering .681 and .656 5th gears for manual transmissions. Orginal 5th gear is .756. I could see the benefit, any downside?
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    I have bought from them before and they are one of the vendors I trust. The original founder regularly attends local (west) GTG's.

    Make sure you get the job done by a TRUSTED local independent shop or guru that knows what they are doing. Do a search in www.TDICLUB.com for a more than comprehensive list. Hopefully this will increase the chances of the job being done correctly the first time.

    I actually want to do this upgrade at some point in my TDI ownership.

    The six speed manual option's upgrade pricing should be coming out soon also. I also understand that 5th& 6th speeds will both have gear size options. Indeed it is quaisi double overdrive type of situation.
  • trosertroser Member Posts: 2
    Hi All,

    I have a 2001 Jetta TDI with 150,000 miles.

    I've recently had a lot of problems starting the car over the past winter. I've been using an additive to counteract the cold weather diesel jelling and I've recently replaced the battery. Yesterday I got my 150K oil change and this morning the car refused to start, in fact it won't even click. The battery is charged, the radio and windows work and the fuel plug light turns on and off like it is supposed to; I'm stumped. :confuse:

    Any suggestions?

    Thanks in advance for your assistance.
  • siberiasiberia Member Posts: 520
    I think your hard starting problem during the winter took it's toll on your starting system that has been used a bit at 150k miles. Then, I think your new battery upped the voltage and current and finished something off. I don't think your oil change had anything to do with it. It usually boils down to the key switch, a starter relay or the starter itself.

    I recently purchased a Jetta TDI and I am not that familiar with the car yet. All I have done is change oil and all the filters. What I would do is make sure all the connections at the starter are tight including the mounting bolts and hook a voltmeter to the starter lead, set it where you can see it and turn the key switch. If you read 12+ volts the problem is with the starter. Some of the parts stores will test a starter for you for free if you remove it and bring it in. If there is no voltage at the starter then you would test for voltage at the starter relay (have no idea where it is located). If there is no voltage at the starter relay then it is maybe the key switch.

    It has been my experience that the key switch is the least likely and the starter itself is the most likely source of the trouble. Loose connections and starter bolts are also likely candidates. I hope this helps or someone jumps in with better advice.

    If it is a bad starter you might be shocked at how much better your car starts with an new starter and battery.
  • trosertroser Member Posts: 2
    Siberia,

    Thanks for the advice. I'll replace the starter this week and I'll post my results on the outcome.
  • jettajakejettajake Member Posts: 2
    I have 140,000 miles on my 1998 TDI. within the last couple of days it's been acting funny, it will rev up on it's own when i start it and the car also has been running a little sluggish. has anyone had this problem or does anyone know what to do?
  • jim314jim314 Member Posts: 491
    Don't replace the starter until you know that it is the problem. On my car (1991 Dodge Spirit) it was the ignition switch. Get one of those aftermarket repair manuals and it will show where the components like the starter relay are located, and shows the wires that are involved.

    I didn't want to think the thing out and so I first just changed the starter relay. Changing the relay is the simplest and cheapest repair so you hope it is the relay. But this was not it.

    The starter in this car was in an inaccessible place so I could not jump across the starter solenoid like I had done on older cars. So I could not test the solenoid directly.

    You want to do the right thing when messing with the relay because it is possible to blow fuses (no prob), but if you blow a "fusible link" then it will be trouble. it is also possible to do even more serious damage and even possible to burn yourself if you short the high current 12V line to ground. You really need a schematic.

    Basically the starter relay has four wires connected to it: (1) the (high current) 12V supply from the positive of the battery which will have +12V even with the key off, (2) the high current line to the starter solenoid which the relay connects (1) to when the relay is activated, (3) the lower current wire from the ign switch which has 12V only when the key is turned to the start position, (4) a ground for (3) which allows low current to pass through the activating coil of the relay..

    Briefly shorting (1) to (2) is OK because this is what the relay does when is is activated. But shorting (1) to the ground is not to be done. Damage or injury can result.

    Probing first with a voltmeter has little possibility for harm because a voltmeter or cheap 12V test light is a high resistance. It cannot short anything. If you want to I will explain the voltages you should see at the starter relay socket, but you have to tell me you want me to because it's a little bit of trouble and I'd have to know you are interested.

    If you can find it, the starter relay is a good place to start because it is usually accessible. There are different ways to test it. One way is to see if the ign switch switches on 12 V to the input which closes the relay. This tests the ign switch. If 12 V appears when you turn the key to the start position, then the switch is OK and something beyond it is not.

    To test the relay itself, remove the relay and use a piece of solid house wire say 12 gauge and jump across the two contacts that the relay would connect when the ign switch puts 12 V to the control contact of the relay. If the starter engages, it is the relay.
  • hooplahoopla Member Posts: 1
    First of all, just want to say thanks to everyone who has posted. I have learned a lot from reading on this forum. This is my first post and I have little mechanical knowledge.
    1 week ago my 110,000 mi. 03 Jetta TDI wont start. IT turns over once or twice but wont fire. Sounds like it is not getting any fuel. I change the fuel filter. i filled the filter with fuel and put everything back together.1 week and no problems. Then today, the exact same thing happens.

    Questions. Is air getting in the fuel system somehow?
    Why would it start and run for 1 week and then quit again?

    My father-in-law said their might be a built in air release valve for the fuel system?
    I don't know anything. Please help.
  • siberiasiberia Member Posts: 520
    Troser, here is a link with good pictures of how to remove the starter if you have determined that is what you need to do and you are doing it yourself:

    link title
  • driverberndriverbern Member Posts: 23
    I have been following the recommended oil change intervals of 10K but in talking to a friend who has worked on VW's he said I should be changing oil every 6000 miles. In addition he suggested I change the oil in the manual transmission every 30,000 miles. I'd like your thoughts. I have a 2006 TDI that I purchased new in July of 2007 and I have 38,000 miles on it.
    Thanks.
  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    I guess I would ask your friend what he's basing his "opinion" on. You only have to look at your owners manual to see what VW recommends. Those of us that have had our oil analzyed can tell you that if you're using the proper oil, VW's recommendation is quite conservative. I had tests at 12k mile intervals that were still well within normal levels. Did he work for a dealer by any chance? ;)
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    To add to Sebring's post. There are a number of things you do not state, so in the process of swagging, please correct where needed. I would swag the oem owners manual calls for VW 507.00 specifications. The range will be up to 30,000 miles or by olm indications and what the owners manual calls for ,% oil life remaining. Again read the oem owners manual, but If indeed M/T, it will probably call for 100,000 miles. Be CERTAIN to use oem M/T fluid.
  • driverberndriverbern Member Posts: 23
    While I appreciate your reply you will have to explain for me please.
    What is "swag," "olm," and "M/T."
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    swag= scientific WILD A-- guess

    olm= oil life monitor

    m/t manual transmission.
  • siberiasiberia Member Posts: 520
    Driverbern,

    Changing engine oil by the odometer is absurd, but what else can we do. I run a scangauge and GPS once in a while and monitor average speed. Even though I get up to 50 mph once in a while in town my average speed is around 15 mph. When I go on trips that are comparable to a daily highway commute I average around 60 mph even though I drive 65 to 70 most of the time. The point is, if I drive solely in town for 10k miles at 15 mph I will have run the engine for 666 hours. If I drive mostly on the highway I will have run the engine 167 hours in 10k miles. Split the difference and I am at 266 hours in mixed driving.

    Back in my aircraft maintenance daze the oil change specification on the planes I serviced was every 100 hours because the engines and oil had to be perfect on those models. Well, car engines and oil don’t have to be perfect (far from it), but if you drove 100 miles at 60 mph, that would be 6k miles. So in that sense 10k miles seems pretty reasonable if you average 60 mph. On the other hand, 10k miles seems pretty unreasonable if you drive all town since that use time could be 6 to 7 hundred hours. Would it make sense to make an estimate or measure of your average speed or install an hour meter and change the oil say every 200 hours?
  • jim314jim314 Member Posts: 491
    A simple and reasonable way to do this is to change oil after a certain amount of fuel has been run through the engine since the last change. Of course, you do have to keep track of your total fuel, but you could have a page on your vehicle log where you keep a running total of the fuel fillups. You wouldn't have to buy and install an engine time meter. And total fuel comsumed might be a better measure of oil degradation than time or distance.

    Here's how you would relate this to a distance interval. Assume that you think that it is acceptable to change the oil at 10,000 miles, if you were doing highway driving at 60 mph under conditions where your Jetta TDI would get 45 mpg. This means that you would change oil after using 222 gallons of fuel (10,000 mi / 45 mi/gal = 222 gal).

    Now suppose that in city driving the Jetta gets only 34 mpg. If you changed at 222 gal, then in the city you'd have traveled 7,550 miles (222 gal x 34 mi/gal = 7550 mi), which sounds like a reasonable interval for an oil change according to most guidelines.

    Total fuel use could be considered as a " proxy" for total engine run time or distance travelled, but the total amount of fuel run through the engine is a direct measure of how much combustion products could be in the oil.
  • siberiasiberia Member Posts: 520
    Jim314, that is an excellent idea, maybe the best I have heard in a while. I already track my fuel so it is a small step to do what you suggest. Sounds flawless in principle and makes a lot more sense than miles.
  • driverberndriverbern Member Posts: 23
    The more of your replys I read the more comfortable I feel changing at 10K. I generally put on about 4000 milles a month and 95% of that is highway which also means that I am putting on fewer hours that most over that number of miles.
    Thanks for all the input.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    Essentially this is what the software for most OLM's does. There are of course other variables they resolve, so as to get better data.

    The essentially HUGE problem is almost all oil change languages/terms are not stated as you outline.

    So for example a brave new world would involve 1. air filter flow resistance meter (CAT has such a product) which would indicate when to change air filters ONLY when it starts to show "significant resistance" Mileage would only matter as a reference. 2. bypass oil filters to catch those impurities etc. 3. pre oilers to keep so called "dry start" issues to an almost nil status (assumption is most of the "wear" is due to so called dry start issues. 4. OLM and hours of engine operation sensors triggering a signal to take an actual UOA 5. Further triangulation between sensor input and actual real world status could extend the life of these resources air filter, oil, & bypass oil filter, oil., etc :shades:

    Another huge problem: COSTS for increased equipment and testing!
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I am assuming that you are seeing air in the clear section of fuel-line between the filter and the injection pump. A small bubble or 2 is not uncommon... if all you see is air... that is your problem.

    Some people have reported the 2 O-rings on the thermostatic Tee to leak air. If this happens, after some time, enough air can get sucked into the fuel-system and starve the injection pump. The engine will quit running at that point due to no fuel.

    Do not forget that the 2 Orings are different sizes (and often different color when you install REAL German-made fuelfilter) Many folks have found that the cheap fuel-filters tend to have air-leakage problems at the Thermostatic Tee due to poor sealing.

    Try this, pull the Thermostatic Tee from the fuel-filter and inspect the O-rings. If OK, apply a thin layer of vasolene to the O-rings and reinstall.

    Then, bleed the fuel-filter of air again and see if the problem is resolved.

    Another GREAT tip is to tie a lengh of string from the mickeyMouse clip to somthing solid. That way, you will not ever accidently drop the mickeyMouse clip while replacing fuel-filter.
  • jim314jim314 Member Posts: 491
    There are actually some published algorithms on oil change interval which allow one to calculate an interval from information that the operator has access to, but the main contribution must be the volume of fuel since the last change, relative to the volume of oil in the engine, and factoring in the quality of the oil. Presumably the on-board computer OLM would do a significantly better job than some general algorithm. The on-board OLM is designed for that specific vehicle and it takes into account data from internal engine sensors (especially temperatures) that the owner cannot access.

    Just for comparison take my wife's 2007 gas engine SUV which requires 8 qtUS for a fill. I got the first oil/filter change done at 7251 miles at which the vehicle had consumed 385 gal of fuel for an average of 18.8 mpg. Of this 7251 mi, 1550 miles was a highway trip on which we averaged 23.2 mpg.

    As I recall, the recommended interval is 7500 miles and I sorta jumped the gun because I wanted to try Mobile1 0W-40 to see if that would give detectably higher mpg. Since the oil change she has driven 1715 miles and used 96.9 gal giving an average of 17.7 mpg. We have taken no extended trips in this time so we cannot compare this mpg to the first 7251 miles, but this result leaves open the possibility that the overall mpg is a little higher with the Mobil1 0W-40. .

    Concerning the wear on "dry startup" are you talking about the first startup after changing the oil or every cold startup? I had always heard that most engine wear occurs during startup, and I had naturally assumed that this wear was occurring in the first second or so it takes for oil pressure to rise at startup. But something I read recently indicated that the wear actually occurs throughout the several minutes it takes for the engine to reach operating temperature.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    I think your first paragraph calls into question the myth and folk lore that has grown up around the 3,000 mile oil change.

    ..."As I recall, the recommended interval is 7500 miles and I sorta jumped the gun because I wanted to try Mobile1 0W-40 to see if that would give detectably higher mpg. Since the oil change she has driven 1715 miles and used 96.9 gal giving an average of 17.7 mpg. We have taken no extended trips in this time so we cannot compare this mpg to the first 7251 miles, but this result leaves open the possibility that the overall mpg is a little higher with the Mobil1 0W-40. "...

    Well you have certainly established a good base line! Good to see you have an eye on how different conditions can and do affect results.

    ..."Concerning the wear on "dry startup" are you talking about the first startup after changing the oil or every cold startup? I had always heard that most engine wear occurs during startup, and I had naturally assumed that this wear was occurring in "...

    Cold start up- correct. I have read in several technical and non technical pieces that fully 60% of the engine wear due to "cold" start up. So the assumption here is a pre oiler would flow oil to those parts that wear, hence "not dry." Another reason for the ZERO W use, as Zero W circulates faster thus cutting down dry operation times for those without pre oilers which is MOST of the fleet.
  • jayvibejayvibe Member Posts: 2
    (2003 Jetta TDI)
    My wife recently somehow managed to shove the gas cover release button down into the door, where it cannot be reached!?! I'm running out of gas. How can I get the cover open? I tried to pry it open but was afraid to apply too much leverage lest I bend or break something.

    Any advice?
  • jim314jim314 Member Posts: 491
    It's plausible that "ZeroW" oil would reduce engine wear especially for engines which have a lot of cold starts, and I think it is well worth the extra cost. I don't know what is the cost of a "preoiler system" which I assume is something which establishes some oil pressure and flow before the engine is started, but I am skeptical that could be cost effective.

    It is my understanding that all modern cars have a checkvalve which prevents oil from draining into the crankcase backwards through the oil pump. So oil flow and pressure is very quickly established once the engine is started. The problem is that the oil is at ambient environmental temperature and does not flow as well as when the oil is at operating temperature. This is the source of the disproportionate wear following a cold start. The solution is to use 0W-30 or 0W-40 oil and in a very cold climate to use a block heater. That is, I think that warming up an engine before starting it would reduce wear much more cost effectively than a system which establishes oil pressure and flow before starting.

    Further, I gather that 0W-30 or 0W-40 is zero-weight base oil made into 0W- 30 or 40 oil by adding polymeric viscosity improvers which are coiled up and inactive at cold temperatures, but which uncoil and become active at operating oil temperature. This gives an oil which has the same viscosity at operating temp as 30W or 40W base oil. As oil degrades the viscosity improvers degrade and lose effectiveness so that the oil viscosity at operating temp decreases from 30 or 40 toward 0.

    In the case of my wife's gas engined SUV of the first 7251 mi (385.2 gal fuel) on the original oil 1550 mi (66.75 gal fuel) was a mostly interstate hwy trip. So the non trip mileage and fuel were 5701 mi / 318.45 gal fuel = 17.9 mpg. This is equal within expected variation to the 17.7 mpg obtained since changing to Mobile1 0W-40. I'll still stick to Mobile1 because I believe it may yield lower engine wear than conventional oil.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    I would say it is a good use!! M1 0w40, as you can still use it in your TDI and Suv.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    The 2003 Jetta TDI was aligned this weekend. The good news/bad news was @ 105,000 miles, it was NOT needed !! The nexus is the car has been driven on some of the worst roads in the nation!! (as ranked by transportation professions)

    The tech said it (drivers side) was a smiggen off, which could have been due solely to the control arm settling in and/or normal variance. He said he could have just taken it off the rack then and there and it would be good to go. However since it was already hooked up; he set it back to dead on.

    Since I just recently got the tires rebalanced, I will continue to use the oem tires till the next 10,000 mile rotation due @ 110,000 miles. I will check again for tread wear and depth. It took a tad to sink in when I mentioned in passing those (crappy) GY LSH's were oem since new. He did a double take, looked at me twice and examined the tires.

    This car is wearing well.
  • hopeful99hopeful99 Member Posts: 20
    JUST CHANGED FUEL FILTER AT 15,000 THERE WAS A VERY SMALL WASHER I COULD NOT FIND ANY WERE IT WAS USED. 2006 TDI CAR SEEMS TO BE RUNNING GOOD. THANKS.
  • siberiasiberia Member Posts: 520
    What tire pressure(s) do you run?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Do you mean the small rubber Orings that come with the diesel fuel filter?

    There should be 2 of these Orings. They are different sizes (and often different colors) They are intended to be installed on the Thermostatic Tfitting. (under the mickyMouse clip)
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    "What tire pressure(s) do you run? "

    38-36 psi fronts, 38-34 psi rears. (on 44 psi max sidewall)

    (2 psi range in front/rear- so I can ignore T/P readings for up to 2 months ;) ,also -2 psi in the rears to preserve the cars oversteer characteristics- additionally anything over 38 psi is a bit harsh for anything but what it as intended- full load.)

    Oem fuel cap sticker

    @ 26 psi F/R (half load)

    @ 30 psi F/41 psi F (full load)
  • hopeful99hopeful99 Member Posts: 20
    not the rubber ring this one is a small steel washer about 3/8 in wide
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I have never seen a steel washer come with a TDI fuelFilter....only the 2 small rubber Orings.

    What brand of TDI fuelFilter came with the steel washer?

    I always use German-branded filters (Mann/Bosch or Meyle)
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    I have also used 1 oem and Mann. I just opened the next fuel filter from Mayle and it has the 2 small rubber O rings, 1 black, 1 blue.
  • dragnbarondragnbaron Member Posts: 11
    In February i had flipped my jetta over in Vermont. It took two tow trucks, a winch, and alot of crossing my fingers. Amazingly, all i needed was a brake purge, and a front end alignment and i was good to go. I went to an autobody shop in New Jersey (that's where i live) to fix the door and front fender. Now, i haven't really gotten the car back yet, because of complications. The door doesn't open when first unlocked, it takes several attempts. once it opens once it's fine, but after every initial unlocking the door takes a small bit of effort to open. Also, i don't believe they put the sound insulation inside the door. In the diesel it can get LOUD over time, so i am very concerned about that. I was wondering if anyone had the schematic which shows the assemblage of the passenger door, or know where i can get one. I know Volkswagen has schematics for pretty much every part, even the side mirrors. Any help would be greatly appreciated, i just want to make sure i KNOW what is supposed to be there so if the autobody decided to cut corners and get lazy i can prove what is meant to be there.
  • altieri3altieri3 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2003 Jetta TDI with 71,000 miles on it. The local LA dealership wants $680 to replace a faulty EGR valve. [Car wouldn't start]. They are also recommending a new timing belt/water pump at $1000, though the manual indicates replacement at $100,000 mi. Since I bought the car, it has had bugs approximately every three months, mostly with the glow plugs and harness. I understand the 80k maintenance is expensive.. what other problems should I expect if I don't decide to throw in the towel on this car altogether? My previous car was a 1993 Honda Civic that now has 240K on it and the original clutch.
  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    First thing to realize is that a VW TDI is not a car for the masses. Second is that VW dealers are, generally speaking, the worst place you can take your TDI for service. It’s a small niche vehicle and most dealers have no clue what they’re doing and will charge dearly for this (lack of) service. If you’re not the type of person that can take care of these things yourself, it would be in your best interest to find a GOOD independent TDI mechanic. They’re out there and I’m sure there’s a decent selection in LA. They’ll charge a fraction of what a VW dealer will and they’ll actually do the work right. A timing belt change shouldn’t be more than $400-$500 and yes 100,000 would be the minimum for most TDI’s to need this service. But a dealer doesn’t make as much money by not being overprotective!! I think they already took you to the cleaners on the EGR “no-start” problem. Not sure what “80k maintenance” there is that you understand to be expensive. Pretty much the only scheduled maintenance on these is generally oil changes every 10k miles, fuel filters every 20k, and timing belt at 100k minimum. You have the owners manual from the sounds of it, so I’m not sure what you’re seeing that needs done.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    Let me add this to what Sebring95 has said.

    Here is a link you might find handy.

    link title

    Some to ALL of the 80k mile intervals is DIY.!!! I take it you do not have a VAG.com so you might want to do a search for those folks with a Vag.com in your area. You would only need this to check for codes. www.TDICLUB.com

    RUN do not walk from the dealer you mentioned!! You might do a further search for some trusted mechanics by state. There are some good ones in the LA area. However , almost everything I have heard has been universally good about this fellow's place (since you seem to be on the verge of calling 911)

    Harvieux (Leonard Harview)

    Wild Rose Motors Ltd
    148 Lloyd Ave # F
    Fullerton, CA 92833
    (714) 449-0485

    Another

    Euro-Tech Motors
    11407 W Washington
    Los Angeles, CA 90066
    (310) 915-7600, Jose

    Another

    link title

    My timing belt/water pump replacement was done at a local GTG and all toll it cost app $600. It was done by one of a select few "west coast gurus" I would trust with the 2003 Jetta TDI. I DIY'd the rest of the 100k mile interval.

    It would seem that you will not need a timing belt/water pump replacement for at least a year, more likely two. (14.2k per year/29= 2.04 years).

    All the best and let us know how you make out. We might even cross paths at a future TBD'd GTG!
  • dieselfitter1dieselfitter1 Member Posts: 42
    The EGR has a tendency to 'stick open' due to carbon. If you hit the top of it with your FIST it will probably close.This is the pot at the passenger side at the rear of the engine.

    I had the same problem keep occuring. I disconnected the vacum line that opens the EGR. END OF PROBLEM! Only problem is that the engine light will come on after about 25 miles. I found that my car runs better with the EGR dissabled!
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    Right and once you eliminate the "physical" problems you can do an EGR delete on the Vag.com....but I am only repeating as emissions are not to be messed with. :lemon: :shades:
  • blundyblundy Member Posts: 15
    2002 jetta tdi, vehicle starts, runs just fine. Was driving through small town and disregarded RPM's. 30mph in 5th. Noted low RPM's and quickly got back in tune with engine speed. Soon noted MIL small engine figure on dash information screen. Owner's manual that speaks mainly to gas powered units says this indicator is usually linked to emissions issues. Now the light goes on right between 20 and 25 seconds after starting the engine. It stays on and does not blink. Manual says if it blinks, it could be a catalytic issue. No blinking, steady light. No difference to operation of vehicle. I looked at all the hoses and lines I could see under the engine shroud. No disconnects visible. Any ideas?
  • dieselfitter1dieselfitter1 Member Posts: 42
    I did the same thing the other day.My glowplug light started to flash just after I stalled from being in 4th gear rather than 2nd gear. In a few days it will stop flashing.

    I am 'OLD SCHOOL'! when it comes to this stuff. Modern engines still work on the same principal. Got oil,Got oil pressure,not overheating,getting same mileage,getting same performance,then there is nothing wrong!
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