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VW Jetta TDI

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Comments

  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Why do you change oil in TDI at 5,000 miles??

    As long as you are using VW-approved oil and quality German-made filter...Here are several reasons to NOT do that;
    *) It costs more money to change oil and filter more frequently.
    *) It is wasting money to drain perfectly good oil out of the engine.
    *) It has been documented that most of the "wear" occours during the 1st 3000 miles after an oil change. (Hence - you are causing MORE wear to your engine by changing more frenquently)
    *) It has been documented that the VW-approved oils can actually go up to 20,000 OCI before oil-analsys show it is breaking down.
  • 50k50k Member Posts: 10
    shrifty,

    I have 61k on my 2009 Jetta TDI and had the same problem with the exhaust gas flapper valve. VW covered the repair (to my surprise).

    I have been doing my own oil and fuel filter changes, but have had to pay $350 for the DSG service.

    VW sent me a letter providing a warranty to 100k on the DSG, problem is I need to take the car past 120K.

    If I invest in a timing belt at 120k and all the DSG service, what happens when the DSG implodes at 110K ?

    I really like the car, but am thinking of dumping it while it's still worth something for a better high miler ( civic or corolla).

    The savings in fuel make up for the expensive maintenance, however if I would have had to pay for the exhaust gas flapper it would have been by by TDI.

    I drive all freeway here in Wisconsin as the car performs well in the snow and cold.

    It is interesting to see another TDI in the same mileage range as mine.

    Have you experienced or heard of any additional problems before 100k miles ?
  • colin_lcolin_l Member Posts: 591
    quote: It has been documented that most of the "wear" occours during the 1st 3000 miles after an oil change

    This is slightly misleading.

    The wear after an oil change primarily occurs at the very first start when there could be a brief delay in oil circulation, but we're talking like 1-2 seconds before the oil pump does its thing. However, it's not very significant in comparison to a normal cold start.

    I agreed with your post in general, however, and would like to add that VW uses a cartridge type of filter with a large element which enables longer change intervals.

    Synthetic oil can easily go far more than 3,000 miles, I agree, but in cars with a small spin-on filter you should change every 5,000 to 7,500 at least because the filter is shot. I am sure that VW's change interval is based on how long they expect the cartridge filter to last and I am quite confident that is far beyond 3,000 miles. When you are using a longer change interval, though, it is more important to check your dipstick and top-off if necessary. Every 3,000-4,000 miles is probably about right for that. (Checking every fuel stop is from an age when cars did consume a lot of oil. :))
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    edited August 2010
    (Colin_I) I am very aware of the 'dry' startup after an oil change can cause additional wear as the oil-filter fills with oil. On the TDI, this is easilly averted by PRE-FILLING the filter-housing with oil before screwing the cap on. Doesn't everyone do this anyway?

    Actually, my reference to wear in the 1st 3,000 miles was in reference to folks who regularly send in their oil to be "analyzed" for wear-particals. It has been noted that on the TDI engine, the wear-partical readings tend to stay high for about 3,000 miles... then settle down to a very low level after that as long as the oil is not changed and the filter does not plug.

    Changing the oil/filter has been shown to make the wear-particals spike up again for about 3,000 miles.
  • shriftyshrifty Member Posts: 255
    Nice, how did you manage to get that covered?? I have heard of a few other people with that problem, I wasn't as fortunate, quite pricey to have that fixed :mad:

    I have to agree about driving in the snow, the car does quite well. Not with the original tires, but put a decent set on and it is very decent. I have lost some heat on really cold days, but keeping it at speed helps a lot.

    I have had two other issues with the car, one recent. My left rear door lock has been giving me some problems, the door doesn't always want to lock. This is quite annoying as I usually find myself somewhere in Queens/Brooklyn on a weekly basis and not exactly in the nicest of areas. I would prefer to have my car locked and alarmed. Fortunately right now I have my door locked, and as long as I don't unlock it I'm ok... I just open my passenger doors manually (keep left rear closed at all times) so that I don't accidentally unlock and then run into the issue again. I'm sure it is definitely out of warranty (at 56K currently) so I don't really feel like having the expense of repairing it.

    My other issue oddly enough happened at 69 miles, my check engine light came on once I got home from the dealership. Drove for another day or two, and the coil light remained light as well. At 123 miles, the car had to be towed :cry: When I called VW 24 hr hotline, the woman asked me how many miles, and when I told her she said 123 thousand? I said no.... just 123. Turns out it was a loose fuel pump relay or something to that effect and the car has run fine since.

    Being my first diesel I don't have any experience beyond 56K, so it will be interesting to see what happens from here. I have the same extended warranty on the DSG as well, hope it will last longer than that!

    I wonder what the trade in /resale value will be at 100K in 2011? I'm sure it doesn't look good to have a car that is 2-3 years old with that mileage on it, but I heard diesels have a higher value than their gas counterparts. I think I'm going to risk keeping the car until it falls apart, which hopefully won't happen for quite some time.

    I've never been a big fan of driving a manual, but after I've driven a few manual diesels overseas this past year, I'd definitely consider one for my next vehicle in the future.
  • shriftyshrifty Member Posts: 255
    Does anyone know of a way to disable the DAC? I find it to be rather annoying when driving in a hilly area.

    As for Launch Control, I read in the manual that some Jettas have it, but I don't believe it applies to the TDI. I tried it one night, and followed the steps as my friend read it off to me. The engine revved to about 2.5K and then seemed to stall... Does anyone know which models have it?
  • fho2008fho2008 Member Posts: 393
    DSG Jettas have it.
  • shriftyshrifty Member Posts: 255
    My 09 sedan has the DSG, but I assume you mean just the gas versions? Or did I misread something when attempting to use it?
  • rrollntdirrollntdi Member Posts: 52
    shirfty: I was in for a regular service visit in 2009 and talking to the dealer about the resale value of an '09. He told me he just gave someone $13K for an '06 TDI with 100K miles on it. I think the car was about $22K new. That's only about $3K per year depreciation, assuming tax :mad: is a sunk cost. I'm interested in the stereo upgrades in the '11 TDIs, but the electric vehicles are coming soon too :shades: .
  • fho2008fho2008 Member Posts: 393
    DSG has launch control.....does it matter if its deisel or gas? Dunno....same size engine, gas or diesel, think about it, programming has to be there, and that diesel has some torque!

    I rarely use it, but when I do, its fun.
  • gagricegagrice Member Posts: 31,450
    I think that was a great trade-in value. I tried to trade in my 2005 GMC in 2007 for a new Tahoe. I paid $26k for a loaded Sierra Hybrid. With 12k miles the dealer only offered $17k in trade. I sold it myself on Craigslist for $22,500. A car with 100k miles is at the end of the line for me.
  • colin_lcolin_l Member Posts: 591
    edited August 2010
    That's only about $3K per year depreciation, assuming tax is a sunk cost

    Depreciation doesn't include taxes, and taxes aren't a sunk cost. Depreciation and taxes are both components of the Total Cost of Vehicle Ownership, sure. :)

    A sunk cost is a decision that's already been made and irrelevant for future decisions. Example:

    Repairs made to a car are a sunk cost. The book value of a car assumes that it is running properly in good order. It hurts your pride (and wallet) to fix a car and then sell/trade it, but at the time you decide to do that the repairs actually are irrelevant. It would have been relevant to sell the vehicle *before* it required repair, though. :)
  • shriftyshrifty Member Posts: 255
    Not bad for a 5? year old car up in the 6 digits, good to know there will be some value left when trading it in. I'm thinking of keeping the car until the wheels fall off, or when it starts to nickel and dime me. Kinda getting a bit concerned about the 120K service, I know that is a big one and about half way there now.

    As for electric, I definitely will not be considering it any time soon. I'm driving over to NYC tomorrow for work (almost 330 mi), then back on Friday which has been almost a weekly ritual now. With a very limited range on electric, I'd be running on gas probably 90%+ of the time. I don't think the hotels would appreciate a 100' extension cord running out the window so I can recharge... :)

    Diesel is way too convenient, I can fill up on the way out, and almost make it home before refueling again.
  • shriftyshrifty Member Posts: 255
    Completely agree with the torque, however when attempting to use Launch Control, I really couldn't rev much higher than 2500 before the engine almost stalled. I had ESC turned off, left foot on brake, transmission in Sport Mode, right foot on accelerator... and almost stalls. The manual simply says "if equipped", however I was not able to determine by any other means if it is or not.
  • longo2longo2 Member Posts: 347
    I wish the "VW Superior engineering" you mention didn't include all the grief that us owners of the Mk 5's have to live with, or the unexplained failure of the newer Mk 6 HPFP's that are costing up to $10,000 to replace.

    On a more down to earth point, I am amazed by the lack of 'superior engineering' on my 06' TDi's dip stick!

    You can't tell if your oil level is full, too full or in the operating range without wiping, testing, peering and then repeating several more times trying to get an acurate measure of typical used black diesel oil on a tiny BLACK plastic rod.
    I think another 30 seconds of R&D engineering common sense would have put that dip stick design in the junk bin and came up with something that made some sense.
    A typical Mk 5 VW TDI oil level reading is a total mystery, To add more confusion to the proceedure, the 'book' says you need to drive the car and then wait 3 or 4 min before checking the oil. If you check the level after it's been sitting for a few days, it reads way over full..or too soon and it reads down to the "Ad" mark...seems the VW diesel engine allows a lot of oil to dain back down into the pan.

    Where did that extra oil in the pan come from? Drained from the upper end, where all the Mk 5 damaged cams, lifters and bearing issues are created. :(
  • gagricegagrice Member Posts: 31,450
    Nothing like owning a vehicle to find out where it is weak. I only had my 2005 Passat TDI 13 months and no problems. I bought it below invoice and sold it at the peak of the market. Probably the only vehicle I will ever buy new and make $3000 a year later selling it.

    Sounds like I was lucky to sell it, with the problems that model has. I loved driving the little wagon. I hated getting in and out. That will be the last sedan I ever buy. I have all but given up on ever owning another diesel. Just too many obstacles and premiums to pay. Now they are being smogged in CA. If I drove a lot of miles it may be worth the hassles.
  • oli1oli1 Member Posts: 33
    I mentioned that exact nusance I have with the A3. It just didn't make sense to me, after 35 years of owning vehicles and working on them, for you to check the dip stick when it is warm. When it is cold you get an accurate measure of how much oil you have because 99% of it is in the crankcase.
  • roadmaster45roadmaster45 Member Posts: 13
    hello Members, I have heard when shutting A tdi down it is best to wait a minute or 2 so the turbos cool down and they will go longer without any defects or breaking down. If anyone is out there with some good advice and answers to this scenario would be greatly appreciated Thank You Roadmaster45
  • fho2008fho2008 Member Posts: 393
    While I dont have a TDI, I think this is what you needed to do in the past, with any turbo engine. With modern engines, I dont think you need to do this.
  • colin_lcolin_l Member Posts: 591
    edited August 2010
    In short, you are correct. Longwinded technical explanation coming up...

    Letting turbochargers cool was a necessity in the past because of 3 main reasons:

    1. They were not watercooled, oil-cooled only.

    Today's OE turbochargers are all oil and watercooled. This helps keep the center section temperature down considerably.

    2. They had sleeve bearings.

    Today's turbos have sealed ball bearings which are much more durable. They spin a lot better too, which helps efficiency.

    3. Significant improvements in oil technology, especially synthetics.

    I strongly advocate the use of full synthetic oil in all cars, but it is especially helpful in turbocharged vehicles as it will help prolong the life of the turbocharger.

    In summary, a modern turbo should last the life of the engine. I believe the TDI uses a Garrett variable vane turbo, which is very high tech. It will go well over 100k miles with no trouble on a stock engine.

    The only cooling I would advocate is after a very hard drive, such as 30+ minutes during steep mountain driving. And even then, you are fine after 2 minutes of driving out of boost at lower speeds or idling. This is completely unnecessary for normal travel or commuting.
  • alltorquealltorque Member Posts: 535
    edited August 2010
    Nothing to do with the TDi engine, specifically, just good practise for any turbocharged engine. Pulling into a service area, say, after a run down the motorway, (Interstate), the turbo will be very hot, (I've seen turbos on test-bed engines get to pale yellow and certainly beyond cherry red). The bearings are very small and only contain a minute amount of lube oil. They rely on a flow of oil to keep them cool, (relatively speaking). Just switching off the engine stops the oil flow and even the best of lube oils will eventually form coke, choke the bearings and .......... BANG ...... goodbye turbo. Allowing the engine to idle for 1 - 2 minutes allows the turbo to cool and fresh "cool" oil to flow through the bearings, so no coke formation.

    If, prior to reaching your destination you have a period of gentle running then the turbo will already have cooled sufficiently so this idling period is far less important.

    Idling before switch-off is a good habit to get into to help ensure your turbo enjoys a long life. The effects of abuse won't show up for quite some time but they will come and bite you - or the next owner - one day.

    AFAIK this idling procedure is strongly recommended, here in Europe, by all the manufacturers using turbos, whether gasser or diesel. VW, Audi, Skoda and SEAT certainly recommend it and everyone I know with a turbo engine uses it............and the vast majority of them drive diesels; Audi, VW, Vauxhall (GM), Ford, SAAB, BMW et al.

    Just my two penn'orth.

    ETA : I was writing my post whilst Colin was posting 4252. His is a better tech post but I think we're both singing from the same hymn sheet. Amen to the use of synthetics. The VW TDi's are fussy about lube but for reasons other than the turbo.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    You are mistaken! VW does not use "watercooled" turbocharger on TDI. This is one reason that synthetic oil is MANDATED for all VW turbocharged engines.

    Allowing turbocharger to cool down before turning off engine should be standard procedure.

    Note: This 'cooldown' can be as simple as driving gently for a mile or so. This is how most people drive anyway before arriving at their destination. The real concern would be pulling into a 'rest area' immedeatly after traveling 65+ MPH... this is when a specific cooldown should be performed.
  • m6userm6user Member Posts: 3,181
    This could be a dumb question but isn't traveling at a steady speed on the interstate at a low rpm somewhat running the engine gently? Is the turbo fully engaged when rolling down the interstate? I thought it was for boost under fairly heavy throttle.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    edited August 2010
    You are correct that the turbocharger gets hottest while under 'boost' However, NO ONE drives under 'boost' for more than a few seconds at a time. (boost = accellerating)

    I have a turbocharged Subaru... if I keep it under 'boost' for more than 12 seconds, I would be traveling over 90MPH. (I love the look on my wifes face when I pin her to the seat with raw accelleration)

    The heat in the turbocharger is directly related to the amount of exhaust-gas flowing thru it. While traviling on hiway at 65+ MPH, there is a lot of hot exhaust rushing thru the turbocharger. The oil-flow over the bearingis the only thing keeping the bearings alive. If you pull into a restarea and immedeatly shut off the engine. A phenomanon known as "heat soak" occours. You have stopped the flow of cooling-oil over the bearings while the turbocharger housing is still VERY hot. This latent heat can literally cook the stagnant oil which is sitting in the bearing-housing. This is called 'oil coking'

    On the other hand, if you get off that very same highway and drive a few miles to your destination... this allows enough oil to flow thru the turbocharger housing to carry the heat away. There is much less latent heat to 'soak' into the bearings.

    All VWs (turbocharged or not) have an oil/water heat-exchanger. This allows the hot oil to 'dump' its latent heat into the antifreeze... which then carries the heat to the radiator so it can be eliminated.

    VW uses OIL COOLED VNT (Variable Nozzle Turbocharger).... this type of turbocharger does not have a "wastegate" to route the hot exhaust gasses around the turbine. Instead, the VNT flows ALL the exhaust thru the turbine at all times. This is more efficent... but creates more heat too.

    Hence - I ALWAYS idle my TDI for 2 minutes if I pull off highway into a restarea

    Does this answer your question?
  • m6userm6user Member Posts: 3,181
    Yes, nice explanation. Is this somehting that VW points out in their owner's manual to do if it is intergral to engine or turbo life?

    Also, this is something that I wouldn't want to worry about everytime I pull off the interstate to a rest area or to get a bite to eat. It seems like a small thing but kind of a pain. I like to pull in and jump out especially if I have to use the john. I know it's a small price to pay for great mpg but those small prices start to add up...higher fuel cost per gallon, longer warm up for interior heat, loss of heat in stop/go traffic, oily hands at fueling, synthetic oil mandatory, hunting for stations that carry diesel(many don't in metro areas), higher intitial cost for vehicle. These things do add up to an overall experience which may or may not be fully offset by the money saved on fuel depending on the person. Just my thoughts.
  • fho2008fho2008 Member Posts: 393
    You could carry a second car key so it can idle and be locked. I'd love a TDI, hopefully someday, and there are two stations in my town I know that sell diesel, and a third that might, I rarely go to em.
  • eliaselias Member Posts: 2,209
    peebs, i'm pretty sure that for my x-country TDI cruises, the turbo was boosting for hours/days at a time. I think boost is necessary to go at highway speeds in desolate areas of I-80 (~100 mph).
    in these sorts of drives, ABSOLUTELY i would let the engine idle for maybe 30 seconds or a minute at most to help turbo cool down at a rest area after hundreds of miles of highspeed driving.
    I don't bother with a cool-down delay for the turbo on east coast highways since the speeds are closer to 75 than 100.
    ps - Those rest areas (outhouses) in the I-80 nevada desert are no prize.
  • fho2008fho2008 Member Posts: 393
    If it came with a boost guage (or you put one in yourself) we would know for sure, but as far as I know you use the turbo only when accelerating, not going along at a steady speed.....even 100mph or more.
  • eliaselias Member Posts: 2,209
    edited August 2010
    fho2k8 ,
    at each increasing steady-speed point, once a certain road-hp level is required of the engine, the turbo will be boosting from that speed all the way up to top steady-state speed.
    if that's not the case, please elaborate, and i'll make a note of it and will wake up Isaac Newton to let him know! :shades:
  • colin_lcolin_l Member Posts: 591
    Are you certain of that? What model number is the turbo... I seriously doubt a variable vane modern turbo would not have a watercooled center section.
  • andys120andys120 Member Posts: 23,388
    If it came with a boost guage (or you put one in yourself) we would know for sure, but as far as I know you use the turbo only when accelerating, not going along at a steady speed.....even 100mph or more.

    Very little power is required to maintain steady speeds on level roads which is why this type of cruising delivers high mileage even at high speeds. I can tell you after 100,00+ miles of watching the boost gauges on Saab Turbos that they only deliver boost above 3000RPM or so, way more than you'd cruise at.

    I can't recall whether the TDI Sportwagen I drove had a boost gauge but there was so much low RPM torque that I'd be surprised if the turbo was on boost except when you accelearate.

    2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93

  • fho2008fho2008 Member Posts: 393
    We basically said the same thing.......the turbo is used for acceleration (and fast acceleration at that, not gradual, unless going uphill), not when traveling at a constant speed, even if you are cruising at 80 or 100mph.
  • dwpcdwpc Member Posts: 159
    edited August 2010
    The potential result of a hot-turbo shut down is "coking"; oil flow stops in a near red-hot turbo and the oil bakes to a solid in the turbo's oil passage. Eventually, no oil gets through and the turbo welds itself together. At turbo speeds of 100,000 RPM, failure is instantaneous and very expensive replace.

    I've driven turbo cars for 30 years and its in my driving routine to idle for a few seconds after starting before loading the engine, and for about 30 sec. when I shut down. I did with ancient MB turbodiesels and I did it with my bi-turbo gasser Audi too, though it had water-cooled turbos and syn oil, and even a after-run waterpump to cool hot turbos after the engine was turned off. Its just a prudent habit with worth-their-weight-in-gold turbos. Turbos have better technology now, but are also a lot more complex than old school simple turbos (on diesels) that would go forever without much worry if you watched out for coking; I put 450K miles on one in a Mercedes. I think a few seconds at idle before shutdown is a good investment.
  • fho2008fho2008 Member Posts: 393
    Agreed, but as as said before by others, with newer turbos, most people are not using the turbo the last few miles before they get home, so it has plenty of time to get oil circulated, "cool down" etc.
  • eliaselias Member Posts: 2,209
    ~100 mph steady-state in my VW TDI requires "wind-out" RPM - 3500 rpm or so (?) - seems like we agree plenty of turbo at that RPM.
    100 mph is a moot speed here on the east coast, but was fun travelling fast like that in the desert. again, in the desert, at 100 mph, i sure did let the turbo cool down after cruising for many hours. and i have no doubt the turbo was working all those hours except maybe on some downhills. air resistance is incredible at high speeds; required "road horsepower" from the engine increases exponentially as speed goes up.
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 236,760
    I wouldn't assume that turbo use is a function of RPM..

    Once your car is up to speed, even 100 mph at 3500 rpm, your throttle position will be the determinant of how often the turbo is on... If you just need slight throttle pressure to maintain that speed, then the turbo will likely be taking a break..

    Of course, at that speed, even slight uphills will cause you to mash the throttle to maintain speed... but, on perfectly level ground? I think little turbo action...

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  • m6userm6user Member Posts: 3,181
    Is the turbo being used the only determinant in the amount of heat is present, hence a cool down period? Does VW recommend this cool down period in their owners manual? If not, why not if it is a proven method of increasing turbo longevity?
  • fho2008fho2008 Member Posts: 393
    No I do not agree, as our host said in the message after yours, "I wouldn't assume that turbo use is a function of RPM..

    Once your car is up to speed, even 100 mph at 3500 rpm, your throttle position will be the determinant of how often the turbo is on... If you just need slight throttle pressure to maintain that speed, then the turbo will likely be taking a break..

    Of course, at that speed, even slight uphills will cause you to mash the throttle to maintain speed... but, on perfectly level ground? I think little turbo action..."

    Just because your car has a turbo, you think you use it most of the time?
  • eliaselias Member Posts: 2,209
    hey there fho,
    100 mph is near the top speed of a 2006 TDI, and I continue to understand that the turbo is working/boosting plenty at that speed.
    Your final question is not so respectful, but the answer to it is "no".
    best regards , and let's find a new subject to discuss! :)
  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    edited August 2010
    How can 100mph be the top-end for an '06? My '00 would do 130 and don't ask how I know :P
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    edited August 2010
    You asked ==> "Are you certain of that? What model number is the turbo... I seriously doubt a variable vane modern turbo would not have a watercooled center section. "

    I am ABSOLUTELY CERTAIN that my TDI VNT turbocharger is not watercooled. It is fairly easy to "coake" the oil in an oilcooled turbocharger. This is one reason that VW specifies synthetic oil. (resistance to 'coaking')

    Since you asked ...It is a Garrett model number "VNT15"

    Note: Some newer TDIs use "VNT17"
  • gagricegagrice Member Posts: 31,450
    Really not that complex for what they charge to replace one. How much if you buy from a non VW auto parts store?

    Thanks for the lesson link.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    edited August 2010
    A turbocharger is over $800 (Just for the part)

    I would imagine it would take at least $300 of labor to R-n-R (Remove and Replace)

    It is FARRR easier to use the proper oil and think about the cool-down before shutting off engine.

    Also, do not forget that more TDI turbochargers are replaced because they are UNDER used... they plug up with soot. Always - ALWAYS use some full-throttle accelleration at least one time between filliups.

    After my wife drives the TDI for a week or so... I can get a puff of black smoke when I clean out the turbocharger with some aggressive accelleration. That is the soot being burned out of the turbocharger.
  • eliaselias Member Posts: 2,209
    here's an annoying maintenance item.
    the O-rings on the 06 TPMS valve stems dry out. probably can happen to some other vehicles/brands too, but most definitely can occur to 06 VWs with TPMS. refurbish kit/work is >$200. Or normal/non-TPMS valve-stems could be installed for $80, and the light would flash forever unless perhaps it could be VAG-COMed off permanently. I went with the new O-rngs for the TPMS valvestems, but naturally I am having valve-stem buyer's remorse regarding them.
  • gagricegagrice Member Posts: 31,450
    There is so much useless crap on cars today, like the TPMS, that I get the 7 year warranty. That should be covered I would think.
  • colin_lcolin_l Member Posts: 591
    It looks like that turbo hasn't been used the on the North American TDI in quite some time. I couldn't find any solid, conclusion information (like part numbers with pictures) but it appears that the current 2.0L common rail TDI uses a Borg Warner / KKK BV39 variable nozzle turbo.

    It's tiny, which I guess shouldn't surprise me given the horsepower output of the TDI. But it is oil and watercooled. ;)

    PS, maybe you should take it down a notch. I believe I replied to one message of yours a month or two ago and disagreed with one thing, and since then it appears you have made it your mission to reply hatefully to any message I post with some really sweet ALL CAPS emphasis. I have nothing against you, or anyone else in this forum. Chill out.
  • fho2008fho2008 Member Posts: 393
    If you are accelerating at 100, I agree, cruising at 100, I'd say you arent using it. Dont know how it was disrespectful, but I'll let it go.

    And a TDI doing 130.........I have no doubt it will go that fast, maybe faster.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Sorry you freel that way colin... I am only referring to the turbocharger in *my* TDI. Not once did I suggest I was speaking about turbocharger in your TDI.
  • bruceeppbruceepp Member Posts: 2
    Ok, I'm a newbie at diesel. Just got the TDI and really like it. I'm having trouble when I go to put fuel in it. The diesel hoses have a ring around the end and it doesn't fit securely into the filler pipe. I end up with fuel all over. What am I doing wrong?

    Thanks.
  • longo2longo2 Member Posts: 347
    The only thing I can think of is you picked a Diesel pump that the big truckers use.

    Those nozzles are a little bigger with a "ring" around the end and don't fit into the TDI car filler neck...

    (found this out the hard way once)
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