Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

VW Jetta TDI

1…8789919293

Comments

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    edited August 2011
    At 220,000, he may only go one more mile. Remember I'm just giving a "statistical" lifespan....it's like the statistical lifespan of people...sure, EVERYBODY knows people walking around who are well over 79 years of age, but you can't point to someone 88 and say "well, all people will live to be 88".

    In the same line of reasoning, the life expectancy of a VW TDI at 220,000 is probably (statistically) a whole lot shorter than one at 120,000.

    And of course, there is the entire rest of the car to worry about.

    So, to me, such high mileage claims, whether they can be proven or not, are pretty much irrelevant for most people's experiences with the car.

    If anything, the reputation of high-mileage cars probably causes more bad buying decisions to be made than normal.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    edited August 2011
    Again a very reasonable approach. However, the op is specifically speaking not of general statistics, but a SPECIFIC 1998 VW Jetta TDI, WITH 220,000 miles.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well then, I would advise him to have a cylinder leakdown test performed, and then to buy the car only on the basis of a huge deduction for mileage. And I would advise him to completely disregard claims of 450,000 miles because he has as much chance of seeing that as I do of dancing for the NYC ballet. Well, okay, he has *more* of a chance, but in the 20 years it'll take him, he may no longer be able to read the odometer! :P
  • gagricegagrice Member Posts: 31,450
    If the car is not damaged, according to Edmunds it has a private sale value of $1172 with that many miles. Trade-in of only $700. So after inspection $1000 would be max in my mind. For all practical purposes it has seen better days. Yet a person might squeeze another 100k out of it without major cost. It is a crap shoot at that age and mileage. I made the mistake once of having an engine overhauled on a Dodge Van. I then decided to sell and buy another vehicle. I could not get even what I had just put into the engine.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Sure with 220K on it, my advice would be "don't gamble more than you can afford to lose"---certainly $1,000 bucks is a fair gamble.

    I actually had a chance to buy a '98 VW Beetle diesel, clean car, very high miles (214,000) for $1,300, but I turned it down. It started hard (never a good sign on a diesel) and they have a pretty bad reputation for the overall car I mean.

    I already have an old German car to repair. :P
  • krd1155krd1155 Member Posts: 9
    the turn signals on my 2006 jetta tdi used to stay on for 5 or six 'clicks' when it was depressed just long enough to engage the signal (i.e. signaling for a lane change). for some reason that feature doesn't work anymore. has anyone else had this problem?
  • char411998char411998 Member Posts: 1
    My daughter has 2003 VW Jetta. Since she bought the car 9 months ago it has gone through 5 different starters. I have replaced each one personally. I am not a mechanic but am mechanically enclined. There has never been any issues about changing the starter but after doing so my daughter tells me that while driving her car she always seems to smell an electircal smell (not necessarily burning but just a smell, I have smelled it also and it really does smell electrical). After each time changing the starter the car will run for a period of time and either stall out (like many others have mentioned) and then not start or just simply not start after being parked. Each time the starter has tested bad after it fails to start but that is almost always after smelling the electrical smell. I can't imagine buying 5 bad starters in a row but who knows now days. The time span may be days to weeks before an issue happens. The car also may stall out while driving and then turn itself back on or simply die and not start again.

    I am wondering if there is any known issues of to much electrical power being generated within the Jetta causing the starter to short out?

    Of if there is some other issue that may be causing this the starter issue?

    Also what seems to cause the stalling issue, is it the MAF sensor that plays a role in the stalling?

    Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • gagricegagrice Member Posts: 31,450
    Is your daughter's the 1.8T gas engine. The diesel engine is a 1.9L. If you are giving the supplier the wrong engine number you could be getting a starter that is not adequate for the engine even if it fits. I have never heard of 5 starters going bad. Maybe worn teeth on the Flywheel are causing extra strain on the starter. So many possible issues.
  • eliaselias Member Posts: 2,209
    edited August 2011
    is the solenoid integral to the starter or a separately-swapped component?
    possibly swap it if it's separate, while also inspecting starter gear teeth and flywheel teeth for excessive wear, considering this idea:
    possibly all the symptoms could be explained if the solenoid sometimes wasn't retracting the starter gear, leaving the starter being spun by the engine after engine is running, and the smell being the starter bearings/windings cooking and/or from starter acting as a weak generator competing to set the voltage/potential different from the 13.8V the alternator/voltage-regulator is supposed to maintain.
    some of the electrical (ozone) smell may be from the alternator/voltage-regulator working to defeat the varying voltage induced by the starter motor running.
    Varying voltage could be observed via vag-com or other diag tool, and also could account for stalling.
  • cosmocosmo Member Posts: 203
    In addition to the above suggestions, I would inspect the operation of the ignition switch. Make sure that the key is returning all the way from the start position to the on position. Also, test to assure that all accessories are working when the key is in the on position. With the car running and in neutral, not park, listen for any slight clicking or grinding noises. If the action of the ignition switch feels sloppy or loose, connections may not be closing completely or consistently. Problems with ignition switches in old VW's and Audi's can manifest in varied and confusing ways. Please let us know when you resolve the problem.
  • soxfan47soxfan47 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Jetta TDI and I replaced my OEM battery with a red top Optima. I don't drive the car very often as I use mass transit and the reason I purchased the Optima was claims that it drains slower than other batteries. It didn't even last 3 years. I didn't have the receipt and the manufacture date was just over 3 years old so no warranty replacement. Don't waste your $$$$.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Too bad. Did the Optima have all the necessary ratings for diesel operation?
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    No, the Optima is not even designed for the TDI, aka longer and deeper glow plug current requirements. OEM of course each have their competitive offerings and 94R is normally the proper specification.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I have warned folks for years that the OPTIMA battery is not worth the cost. Dont get me wrong, it is a better technology than SLA (Sealed Lead Acid) but it is not worth the extra $$ they are asking for it.

    In reality, there are only about 2 or 3 battery manufactures left. EVERYONES batteries are made by those same manufacturers.

    "Interstate" Batteries has wharehouses all over the country and their batteries are no worse than anyone elses. They sell everything from celphone, laptop batteries all the way up to huge UPS (Unintuptable Power Supply) batteries and Solar-cell storage batteries.

    If you are on a low budget, they even sell refurbished car batteries. (fully tested and waranteed)

    I even take my rechargable power-tool batteries to "Interstate" to rebuild them. They open up the battery-pack and install matched cells.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    edited September 2011
    I have been following Corvette Z06 sites (10 years) and the Optima line is a constant issue of disappoint for what seems to be a higher percentage of dissatisfied folks. The Z06's current demands are no where NEAR the TDI's.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    If you own a diesel, you buy the best battery money can buy, is my advice.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    It is actually surprising the VW dealers offer oem specifications batteries at a very competitive price, and actually have a 60 month warranty they in fact honor.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I always thought dealers pawn you off on the battery company if you have a problem.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    I am sure that is the normal case.

    All I did was bring in the old battery, they gave me the prorate refund and settled up on the new replacement battery. They would have installed it but I just brought in the battery.
  • ndmike88ndmike88 Member Posts: 155
    Red tops and yellow tops are not what they used to be.
  • mi2kshopmi2kshop Member Posts: 19
    We are looking for a new wagon or an SUV. We have owned Hondas and Toyotas recently, but I am attracted by the Jetta TDI reviews I have seen. But I also have this impression that they are less reliable than the average car. But still it came as a shock when my mechanic (whom I trust) said that the one car he would not recommend to me would be the VW diesel line! According to him this car can be as expensive to repair as the Porsche.

    Has this car been more trouble prone lately? Has VW fixed anything in 2011 or 2012 models that should make me consider it despite my mechanic's advice?

    Thanks in advance.
  • gagricegagrice Member Posts: 31,450
    It is possible your mechanic does not have the proper equipment to work on the VW TDI engines. He may not want to lose a customer. If you keep cars beyond the extended warranty having a mechanic you can trust is useful. I would say you should talk to a shop that repairs VW TDIs on a regular basis. If none exist in your area and you do not want to work on your car after the warranty period, maybe the VW TDI is not for you. My 70 year old neighbor has a 1999 Beetle TDI that he maintains. It has close to 200k miles on it. His wife will not drive any other of their vehicles. She loves driving that car. He has not had any major failures to date. The driving experience of the German vs Asian or Domestic is MUCH BETTER.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    edited September 2011
    I think if you are concerned about the "FLEET" over all (numbers and percentages) of JSW TDI's, the good news and bad news are the (2011/2012) JSW TDI's are a very SMALL fleet indeed. (aka stay away from the VW Jetta TDI's)

    So for example, one defect in a fleet of say 5,000 (JSW TDI's), will have far different numbers and percentages than say one defect in 200,000 each ( of Honda Accord/Toyota Camry) As you can see, that one defect can and has to happen many more times (10 TIMES more) in a Accord/Camry before numbers are even significant let alone labeled an issue, vs a JSW TDI.

    Others are a series of coded messages from your mechanic. What he is really saying: he has neither the equipment, expertise and practical experiences to service a diesel. In effect, you will be now on your own (after the VW warranty periods) should you chose the diesel. If he were to service YOUR diesel, statistically (all things being equal) he can not come close to the level a service a specialist in TDI's can. I am sure he would hate to lose you as a customer. (aka stay WITH the Honda/Toyota)

    So to answer your questions PRACTICALLY. VW's are really built to be repaired. This can be seen as a good thing OR a BAD thing. All but the diesel components are normal "CAR" repairs (a wheel and tire on a VW is a ...wheel and tire on a Honda/Toyota) Honda/Toyota's are really built to be appliance like, which oh by the way can be brought in to be fixed. Almost by necessity, I would seek out a specialist IN TDI's.

    I just recently clicked off a major tune cycle for both (110,000/120,000 miles, 100,000 miles) a 2004 Honda Civic and a 2003 VW Jetta TDI. At LIKE MILES, you will probably not guess which needed more maintenance AND cost more and was procedurally and technically more complicated and took more time. ;)

    sidebar: I can be VERY specific but don't wish to bore the general thread if that is not of real interest.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    edited September 2011
    In my opinion, the TDI is not any more trouble-prone than any other vehicle.

    Yes - it is DIFFERENT than a gasser. But the TDi actually has LESS things to fail.

    NO ignition system (coil, sparkplug wires, sparkplugs....etc) These things simply do not exist on a diesel engine.

    I have to agree with the other appender who suggested that perhaps your "trusted mechanic" is simply not familiar with the TDI engine and does not wish to lose a customer.

    Also, do not forget that ONLY the engine is different... the rest of the vehicle is the same as any other VW. Same brakes, same suspension...etc Hence, your mechanic should be able to handle most of the "standard" maintenance duties.

    My wife LOVES her Jetta TDI and prefers to drive it over my turbocharged Baja.

    On long roadtrips, (over 4 hours) the 56 MPG is unmatched by any other vehicle sold in North America. It gets over 750 miles per tank of fuel.

    ....and dont let ANYONE tell you that diesel fuel is "hard to find" or "too expensive" I can tell you that diesel is sold at most refuling stations.

    I have a spreadsheet totaling every drop of fuel ever pumped into my wife's TDI. The all-important COST PER MILE is $0.05 (over 125,000 miles)

    My motorcycle barely matches the cost-per-mile of the TDI!!
  • roccusroccus Member Posts: 6
    thought my 2009 TDI was perfect car...drive about 500 miles a week commuting....mostly highway.....just found out I need a new DPF(diesel particulate filter) and catalytic converter....$4000.00 estimate by dealer..yes THOUSAND.....called VW customer service and was told the DPF and catalytic converters are covered for 8yrs/80k miles....I was at 80,800...so sorry " nothing we can so" they did say they would send me a service voucher for $250.00...thanks.....also @ 90k a timing belt change is required maintanence*($1200-$1400 dealer estimate) so much for saving money driving a TDI... just be careful....I never missed a dealer servicing so I'm even more annoyed.....
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I think it would be more accurate to say that a diesel car has OTHER things to fail rather than FEWER things to fail.
  • roccusroccus Member Posts: 6
    recently had new glow plugs(750.00 dealer repair) and new door latch (450.00 dealer repair) can understand glow plugs after 80k.....so with the DPF and timing belt in a month or so I'm looking @ $6000.00 in repair costs for a car I bought less than 3 years ago for 25k . So much for VW Engineering.....thats above the expensive regular maintenance I had at the dealer.....
  • gagricegagrice Member Posts: 31,450
    If your state does not require smog check on diesels, maybe a different exhaust system that boosts power and better mileage. I think CA requires longer than 80k miles. That would ruin my day and give me unpleasant thoughts about VW. Have you always used high quality ULSD? Not all states are fully compliant on the ULSD mandate. The engine must have it.
  • roccusroccus Member Posts: 6
    yep...always high quality fuel ...NY metro area....won't pass emissions with check engine light...real dissappointed.....love the car...hate the unforseen expenses....does VW have to charge 4 grand for a poorly designed filter/catalytic converter? will the new one have to replaced in another 80K? really thought I would be driving it for years... doesn't seem to make sense putting that kind of money into it
  • gagricegagrice Member Posts: 31,450
    I wonder if you would take a full $4k hit as a trade-in on a new one? Might be worth a try at a different dealer.
  • roccusroccus Member Posts: 6
    not happy with the quality /engineering now...might be done with VW...just might cut my losses and buy something different....don't know what other problems might pop up despite my taking great care of the vehicle...can't see throwing good money after bad
  • longo2longo2 Member Posts: 347
    edited September 2011
    My first new VW was a '59 bettle, coldest, noisiest, most uncomfotable bucket of bolts on the road, next, a '62 Bettle, at least it had a gas gauge but not much else, then a '72 Super beetle we called 'Herman', it got run into 3 different times parked out side the house, next up a '74 "Sun Bug" well named because it had a sunroof (that wouldn't close) then a Rabbit or 2, one of those things was a diesel, 0 to 60 time trial is still going on, and finally after all those PIA's, a 2006 VW TDI.

    I am living proof of the old saying, you can't keep making the same mistake over and over, and expect a different result.
  • gagricegagrice Member Posts: 31,450
    What other indication do you get that the emissions system is broke?
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    edited September 2011
    It might be time to use local independent shops that specialize in TDI's. If you decide to stay with VW's. It would be hard to fault you after getting the - $4,000 news. So for another example, the VW recommendation for the 2009 TB/WP change is due @120,000 miles. This has been well known and documented in many places and also in the owners manual. This interval is UP from the 2003 (mk IV) interval of 100,000 miles. Using local guru's, while the parts cost slightly more than a Mk IV model, my last 100,000 miles TB/WP interval cost 600 total.

    This is not an excuse for the lack of durability for your emissions system, but I had app $4,600 in repair fees for a 1985 Toyota Camry. It was done at the time by a local Toyota dealer. Yes and like yours, a couple of miles outside the warranty. Looking back on it it can only be descrbed as a sludge monster with a whole bunch more issues. They actually as a good will move did a lot of OTHER things under their "secret customer service warranties" Needless to say Toyota reliability has been , even back then and remains... ledgendary.
  • roccusroccus Member Posts: 6
    thanks for the info....120k TB/WP change is great news...I guess the dealers service department didn't get the memo! car runs great so I'm in no hurry... maybe I'll find a TDI guru ....thanks again
  • longo2longo2 Member Posts: 347
    edited September 2011
    Had the TBWP service done on my 2006 Jetta TDI at 95,000 miles this summer.

    Dealerships are getting more competative about priceing shop work these days. The bill was $658.00 inc taxes.

    The old belt and idler pully that came off still looked to be in mint condtion.
  • fho2008fho2008 Member Posts: 393
    Wow only at 40k on my gas 2.0 but dealer said $1000 for tb wp at 110k.....theres a mechanic near where I work, works on lots of vw's, think I'll be talking to him.
  • 06tdibadcam06tdibadcam Member Posts: 10
    edited October 2011
    My 06 TDI Jetta camshaft and lifters just bit the dust at 118,000 miles. Faithfully used oil change and service at vw dealer. I bought this car to last 300k. My other car, 05 seinna has 278k right now. I maintain my cars as well as anyone, what the heck happened to my camshaft and lifters. One lifter has a hole completely through the top, bearings show copper.
    Dealer said I did not use correct oil, but they did the oil changes.
  • gagricegagrice Member Posts: 31,450
    Dealer said I did not use correct oil, but they did the oil changes.

    Dealers using the wrong oil in your engine is way too common. Problem is proving it. I would talk to the service manager first and bring all your paperwork. If they don't accept some responsibility I would get a hold of VWUSA. They are trying to improve their image. Good luck, and keep us posted.
  • 06tdibadcam06tdibadcam Member Posts: 10
    It appears that the correct oil has been used. I have been told that it is due to a batch of bad parts that VW used and I am just out $1600 plus. Not sure who or how to get in contact at VW. Seems like there were quite a few 06 TDI's with same problem on the vwclub forum.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    If you decide to do the repairs and keep the car, I would use no other oil than Mobil One 5w40 TDT.
  • 06tdibadcam06tdibadcam Member Posts: 10
    With a 1/2" hole thru one of the lifters and not sure where all metal is, plus indentation on the other 7 lifter faces, plus all of the copper wear on bearings, plus the wear on the camshaft, we do not know what to do. We took car to an independent vw shop in Tulsa and they replaced cam and $1600 of other parts. But how much damage was done to rest of engine with debris is a guess. VW knew about the cams in some of the 06 Jettas, we are screwed as far as this car.
    I wanted to post pictures but not sure how or if allowed on Edmunds.
    Thanks for your input on oil. I have used Mobil One in my gas cars for years, but warned by VW that warranty would be void if I did not use Castrol 505 01 from VW.
  • gagricegagrice Member Posts: 31,450
    If the right oil was used it sounds more like a defective design. The 2006 TDI was a transitional engine from the earlier models. I think the current TDI came out in 2008. I would contact VW USA for sure and complain.

    http://www.vw.com/en/contact_us/nav/contact_us.html

    You can post pictures. Make sure they are no wider than 640 pixels. You will need a photo server of some sort like Photobucket or Montypics.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    Might I ask the obvious? How good is/was the warranty when you DID use the Castrol 505.01 (BP product) bought from VW?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    It's a pretty well-known problem on certain '06 Jetta TDIs. My opinion is that it is a metallurgic defect and that you were doomed from the start. But I don't know for sure---just how it looks from the experiences of *many* other TDI owners of that vintage.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    edited October 2011
    Yes actually it was the PD design (pump duse) circa 2004-2006. VW stayed out of the US market for MY's 2007,2008 and got back into the TDI MY offering 2009- with a "improved new design".

    Upon repair, folks that have used the Mobil One 5w40 TDT oil have experience wear levels way below those using the recommended Castrol oils. I can link a series of UOA's that shows much lower wear levels at 20,000 + OCI's. on a repaired camshaft.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    edited October 2011
    One theory was that the PD design had cam lobes that were too narrow. I generally advise people to stay away from them unless they see a receipt for a new camshaft---and even then, I do wonder.

    Things like this don't necessarily hurt a car's reputation. I mean, look at the Volvo B18 and B20 engines from the 60s & 70s. These cars enjoy a good reputation for "running forever" but their camshafts were total junk. However once fixed (using IPD camshafts) they ran a long long time.

    So you just deal with it and move on.

    As for debris getting into the engine after severe camshaft wear, that's a touch and go thing---seems to me if nothing drastic happens in a few hundred miles, you're safe. I'd certainly do a 1,000 mile oil change though and make sure I have a magnetic oil plug.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    I am glad you agree with me. Yes, much is made of the "debris" circulating in the crankcase. However the oil filter will trap the larger particles that actually ARE circulating.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    You'd need a chunk big enough to stop up an oil galley, and any pieces THAT large will destroy an engine so fast you'll know immediately if you have a problem or not.
  • chuckycheesechuckycheese Member Posts: 13
    I have had occasion to contact VW regarding a wiring harness (RH front door) problem. Try this # 1-800-822-8987. The reps name was Darrell. Hope it helps. I have a'06 TDI but have not yet had this camshaft issue. I do have a rough idle occasionally after vehicle is shut off & restarted. Sometimes it is really rough & other times it is mild. Also have had times when I get smoke from tailpipe after restart as though an injector is leaking. Above problems are not constant & don't happen at same restart. I have @83,000 miles (yes the TB/WP have been replaced) & have used Amsoil Euro 5W40 since @ 10,000 miles on car. Any ideas?
Sign In or Register to comment.

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles