VW Jetta TDI

tootight · January 2006

I just got my 20k checkup at the VW dealer today. The bill was over $300. Fuel filter $70.04, oil filter $36.99, they checked the brake pads, 5 quarts of oil, $2.25 epa waste and scrap disposal, $25.36 shop supplies and recycling, $100.00 labor. I asked them what they charge to replace the timing belt at 50k. Take a guess what that cost?

ruking1 · January 2006

1200-1600?

I am not sure of the difference between the 2005 and 2003 parts but the 2003's fuel filter is 25 to 35 dollars, the oil filter is 6.50. Oil I know has to be to a different standard than the 2003. I think one of the least endearing things about the VW is how much the VW dealer's charge. The one that is closest to me seems to have a take it or leave it attitude. I personally DIY except for complicated trouble shooting (knock on wood, it has been flawless) and the 100k scheduled TB change.

sebring95 · January 2006

You need a new dealer. Always get a quote before letting ANY dealer perform service. I learned this back in '92 with my 1992 Toyota Camry V6 which was quite a marvelous car at the time. I dropped it off and said "please perform the 30k mile service" and they said ok and charged me $275 for all kinds of garbage that was nowhere in the owners manual. Even though most of the items your dealer performed are recommended, they are charging substantially more than is justifiable.

If you go to this website: www.worldimpex.com and search for parts for your car you'll see how cheap many of these parts can be purchased as well as list price. A complete oil change kit (filter, 505.01 oil, and drain plug) is only $39.95 and a fuel filter is $30.29. These items are very easy to perform, I could talk my wife through them and she doesn't know anything about cars. Not sure those services are worth the dealers full labor rates, but that's what they're charging in addition to nearly double list price for the parts. They must have left you a couple nice wrenches based on the shop supply charge!

i4edge · January 2006

Hi,
I had the engine light come on (2004 Jetta TDI) with around 30k miles. Took it in to the dealer and they said it was the EGR Cooler? what the? and that it was damaged by using "green" antifreeze instead of the "pink".

jonpnj · January 2006

I am curious what that would cost (timing belt) as I am contemplating purchasing a 2006 model. Does the timing belt have to be changed so early at 50,000 miles? $300 sounds high for a 20,000 mile checkup. I guess I will have to ask these questions before I sign the dotted line.

sebring95 · January 2006

The timing belt is at least 100k miles on the newer models. I've seen/heard of dealers charging $500-$800 for them. By that time your warranty is up so you might as well find a good foreign mechanic or TDI specialist. You can get it done for $300-$500 and probably a better job. Generally speaking, dealers are not the best place to take a TDI. I'm sure they'll get better as time goes on and they have more experience, but many don't have a clue and just like to throw parts at them. I've seen/heard of quite a fewbotched up dealer timing belt jobs. It's not rocket science, but setting the timing on a TDI requires following specific steps using software and mechanical components. If not done exactly right, the car won't run right.

jkinzel · January 2006

Make sure you change the water pump at the same time. Im told it's right behind the timing belt and most of the cost is labor so best to do it all at once.

bpeebles · January 2006

The watercooled EGR leaking internally is a KNOWN issue for some 2003-2004 TDIs.

Using the incorrect antifreeze is not known to cause the EGR to leak.... but can plug up the cooling system and destroy the engine.

The BIG QUESTION is.... did anyone put NON-VW (green) antifreeze in your Volkswagen? (Perhaps because it was leaking in the first place!!!!!)

Also, dont EVER let the bonehead that put the wrong type of antifreeze touch your car again. You may have ended up with a BOAT ANCHOR for an engine.

BOTTOM LINE: The leak was there becasue of defective EGR before the wrong antifreeze was poured in. I would fight this with VW especially since leaking EGR is a KNOWN issue.

swimdad · January 2006

Help! My new job location has created a commute of 70 miles, mostly interstate. As a result, I'm looking for a good, reliable commuter car and have narrowed by choices to either the TDI or Pruis. So, any help would be appreciated. What are the pros & cons? Thanks!

gagrice · January 2006

Welcome to the Forum.

If it was me and my commute was that long on mostly 75 MPH highways I would go for the Jetta TDI. It is better handling not subject to cross winds as the Prius can be. Generally you have to change the tires on the Prius to get acceptable handling. The late model 2004 and newer VWs have much better reliability than a few ears back. I am going on a year with absolutely no problems with my 2005 Passat TDI. I love driving it because it is so rock solid handling. Exceptional brakes and safety come standard. The 2006 Jetta is the highest rated compact for side impact. You do not have to pay extra to get side airbags etc.

Good luck in your long drive each day.

PS get XM satellite radio, it is great.

vwinva · January 2006

I drive a TDI automatic, my wife drives a Civic Hybrid manual. Year and half on both. Comparisons:

MPG Civic gets 50, Jetta gets 42 (a manual would add 4mpg) She drives 50mi one-way, I do 40. 80% highway, 20% local both.
Acceleration: slow on both. TDI does better now that I have installed an Upsolute ECU
Fuel: Civic uses 87 octane - "regular". No additives. TDI uses diesel with 4-6oz of Powerservice Diesel Kleen per fill-up. Diesel is currently running $.25/gal more than regular.
Maintainance: TDI has longer maintainance intervals and no tune-ups.
Noise: TDI is noisier though no worse than a regular car.
General utility: TDI - hands down. TDI is a wagon with all the hauling capacity of one. Has trailer hitch. You can install roof racks as well. Civic has rear boot,nothing more.

bpeebles · January 2006

The Prius is said to be more efficent in stop-n-go driving where the regenerative-braking and batteries suppliment the gasoline engine. You suggest that you would be driving "mostly interstate". Interstate driving forces the Prius to run on the gas engine contiously. (not much benifet from the batteries)

My TDI (manual xmission) gets over 55MPG on the highway. Northern Vermont to Pittsburgh on one tank of fuel...with some left over! It takes at least 40K miles to fully break in the TDI engine and realize the full MPG potential.

Keep in mind that VWs new DSG xmission is said to be as efficent as a manual. Also, as mentioned above, the TDI is most efficent when a cetane-improving additive is used. (Due to crappy fuel in North America)

One thing about the VW TDI engine (Pumpe Duse)... it REQUIRES special engine oil. I only mention this because some folks that purchase one seem to be surprised about this fact.

sean9 · January 2006

Has anyone experienced problems with to fuel door on their 2006 Jetta TDI? Mine seems to be broken and will not close properly. I think the latch has broken. I am sure the dealership will take care of the problem when I take it in next week for the 8,000km maintenance schedule. Just wondering if I am the only one out there that has had this issue. :sick:

sean9 · January 2006

Does anyone know why the Canadian version of the Jetta '06 is lacking some of the great features compared to the U.S version. IE: Rain sensing wipers, XM Radio, Home Link. Or why the Canadian version has the "telephone button" on the steeringwheel that does not do anything? Is this going to be like a "On Star" product like GM has? :confuse:

jkinzel · January 2006

A few nights ago I followed a VW BORA on the way home.
If my research is correct, the VW BORA is the British version of the Jetta. Odd how that would end up in Gig Harbor, WA, USA. Nice looking car. Did not notice if it was a TDI.

sebring95 · January 2006

Obviously you're going to get some biased responses here! You've got to look at your personal situation and make some decisions.

Is reliability your #1 concern? While I've had nearly zero problems with my TDI in 140k miles, VW does not have the best reputation for reliability.

Will the dealer be doing all your service? If so, a TDI can be expensive to operate simply because many VW dealers are crooks and charge excessively. You have to be very careful what service you tell them to perform. The TDI does NOT require much maintenance, but telling a dealer to "perform the 20k mile service" may cost you a fortune. This applies to any dealer, however VW dealers charge more for labor and parts, so it's even more dangerous.

You need to drive both and compare closely. You're going to be sitting in the thing two or more hours a day. Buy the one you like the best.

IMHO if you don't really enjoy driving a VW and would be satisfied with something like a Prius, you may find a normal gas civic or even a Civic Hybrid more appropriate. You may not get 50mpg but they're much better cars than a Prius. I love the TDI engine, the way it drives, how the car handles and feels. But you need to shop for yourself. A TDI is not for everyone, and a Prius is more of a feel-good car as I don't think the price premium will be recouped compared to other options.

gagrice · January 2006

you may find a normal gas civic or even a Civic Hybrid more appropriate.

Good advice. The Accord 4 cylinder has a lower Total Cost to Own than the Prius. The Hybrid Civic is even lower. Drive them all and pick the one you feel most comfortable driving. 70 Miles a day is a long time on the road. Comfort is a BIG factor.

ruking1 · January 2006

I know what I did with a 50 mile per day R/T commute.

Uphot: 2003 VW Jetta (Golf, New Beetle) TDI, 47-51 mpg commute traffic. 44-62 mpg range.

2004 Honda Civic VP, 37-41 mpg commute traffic and range.

You will clock (just in commute miles app) 19,000 per year.

While the Honda VP is a very capable commuter and actually a trooper in cross country, (longest trip has been 1600 miles and 750 in one day) if you plan to do other than commute long distance miles the TDI is much more fun than the Honda Civic.

gsbar · January 2006

I am looking for the info if someone has installed an after-market water-separator (glass) on Jetta TDI (2002) in line before the factory fuel filter. It is very hard to drain water from the factory fuel filter drain.

Also please let me know where is the fuel temperature sensor on 2002 Jetta TDI and how to get to it. Roughly how much will it cost?
Thanks and much appreciated.

ruking1 · January 2006

Actually draining the water from the bottom of the factory fuel filter could not be any easier.

The problem is how it sits. Just loosen the hold down band (small to med philips) and then lift out the fuel filter to expose the bottom drain cock. Loosen the plastic drain cock over say a clear glass bottle drain app 1 to 2 oz and retighten and do the steps in reverse to put the fuel filter back in. Once you do it, the explanation is longer than the actual procedure.

I would not personally install and aftermarket water separator (glass) given the oem designed fuel filter.

I have drained the filters on the recommended cycles and in over 69,000 miles have never had water come out. I also probably should say I use Primrose 405C.

bpeebles · January 2006

I agree with the above appender.... it really is not difficult to get to the "water drain" and if you purchase fuel from a reputable place, you will likely NOT EVER find any water anyway.

As for the fuel temp sensor... there is one INSIDE the fuelpump on your 2002 TDI. There are detailed photo-assisted instructions how to replace available elsewhere on the internet. (Edmunds rules forbid me from posting the link here)

swimdad · January 2006

Thanks so much for your input. What is the situation with the new clean diesel due in Sept. and the Biodiesel I've been reading about? My salesman told me the '06 TDI will burn both. Reason I'm asking is I am concerned about emissions and our reliance on foreign oil and it seem from the literature that the new fuels will help with these issues and one article even suggested the Biodiesel actually is less polluting than Hybrids when you factor in all aspects of production/transportation. Thanks again for your input.

gagrice · January 2006

I would think getting biodiesel in TX would be easy. That is Willie Nelson country and he pushes biodiesel. It is not the perfect fuel. It is CO2 neutral and has no sulfur content. Make sure you buy from a reputable source and it should give good service. As the standards become uniform more manufacturers will accept biodiesel for their engines. DC fills the Liberty CRD with B5 biodiesel from the factory to encourage owners to use it.

agalas · January 2006

I own a 1994 Toyota Corolla that I will soon need to replace. A mechanic friends told me about the VW TDIs, specifically the Golf and Jetta. He claimed that VW has fixed the problems and they are now as reliable as any gas Honda or Toyota and that, if well maintained, will run for 300,000-500,000 miles.

I would appreciate your comments on the reliability of recent VW TDIs, are they really as good as my mechanic says? Do they pocess rock solid reliability? And do they really get 41 MPG combined, real world mileage?

Any replies will be greatly appreciated.

string · January 2006

YES!! 260K miles. only minor issues. 2 Water pumps, brakes, water heater (just wore out). routine items (timing belt, exhaust cleaning etc...) Luv the car. still getting >50 mpg. Used only Castrol Syntec for oil. Not sure why VW changed the mileage on the New jetta ~40 mpg. I think the new jetta's run ~22k$. compare comparable Toyota or Honda. The price difference may matter (how long do you plan to own?). Luv the jetta. However, I paid only 15K in 1998. not sure if the more expensive new jetta is really worth it.

edjet1 · January 2006

I have a 2004 Jetta GLS TDI and I just had my EGR Cooler replaced as well. Started out with my temp light coming on. They checked this when I got an oil change and they said it was just low coolant. When I took my vehicle back to get a recall done the light had come on again and this time it turned out the oil cooler had a leak. I got it replaced a couple days ago. We'll see how long that will last. I like my car, but in the last month I have had to take it in 5 times. After I got a new EGR cooler I had to take it back, today 01-27-06, because my car was making a whistling noise when I pressed on the accelerator.. kind of like when a timing belt is worn. Turns out some flange was broken(probably when they replaced the EGR)and exhaust was leaking out. Anyway, I have to take my car in next week, visit number 6 for 2006, and get it fixed again. Luckily it's still under warranty... what to do... what to do.... :confuse:

edjet1 · January 2006

I have a 2004 Jetta GLS TDI and I just had my EGR Cooler replaced as well. Started out with my temp light coming on. They checked this when I got an oil change and they said it was just low coolant. When I took my vehicle back to get a recall done the light had come on again and this time it turned out the oil cooler had a leak. I got it replaced a couple days ago. We'll see how long that will last. I like my car, but in the last month I have had to take it in 5 times. After I got a new EGR cooler I had to take it back, today 01-27-06, because my car was making a whistling noise when I pressed on the accelerator.. kind of like when a timing belt is worn. Turns out some flange was broken(probably when they replaced the EGR)and exhaust was leaking out. Anyway, I have to take my car in next week, visit number 6 for 2006, and get it fixed again. Luckily it's still under warranty... what to do... what to do.... :confuse:

edjet1 · January 2006

hey swimdad... I would honestly recommend if you REALLY want to save gas and have a reliable car... go for a honda hybrid. 49mpg average city! There are a couple of recalls on the 06 hondas(air bag probs for 2 door models and accelerator problems for some models). If you go look at these ask them about the accelerator problem. Im not sure this applies to all civic types, but find out. Anyway, the hybrid will run you about $21-23k and its a honda! Good thing about VW's though is that the factory warranty is the best in the industry with a 4yr/50k mi warranty.. the bad thing is that you might end up actually having to use it. Hope this helps.. let me know.... Ed

sebring95 · January 2006

I guess it depends on your definition of reliable. Never needing a repair? Not likely. Of course, neither is a newer Toyota. My best Toyotas were '92 and '94 models. Everything after that was disappointing. Not UNreliable, but just not AS reliable as the early 90's Toyotas. I've had great luck with my '00 TDI with around 140k miles. It's a manual and even with perforance mods and my fairly heavy foot averages 46mpg. I think the autos average 40mpg. That's for majority of hwy driving.

IMHO, if reliablity and never having to work on your car is the #1 priority in your life then I don't know that I could recommend VW. They're not terrible, but do require a bit more attention. Of course, you're not guaranteed 100% reliability with anything so when you get a bad Toyota it's really a bum deal. I love the way VW's drive and even with less reliability I'll take one over most any modern Toyota. If driving enjoyment isn't high on your list, I think overall a Corolla or Civic is cheaper to operate even if they don't get the terrific mpg.

gagrice · January 2006

go for a honda hybrid

Maybe the Honda Civic manual transmission or even the regular automatic. If you get the Hybrid with CVT, get a long warranty. They seem to be problematic. They seem to go out after 40k miles. After the regular warranty is gone.

sean9 · January 2006

I finally had my Jetta in to have the fuel door looked at. Apparently I am not the only one who has had this issue. Apparently alot of the n :P ew 2006 Jettas have a problem with the cable that opens and closes the fuel door, it sticks and needs to be replaced and lubricated. So my advice is that if you have any problems with the door get your dealership to replace the cable. Hey maybe it is the cold Canadian weather up here??

pruzink · January 2006

"I had the engine light come on (2004 Jetta TDI) with around 30k miles. Took it in to the dealer and they said it was the EGR Cooler? what the? and that it was damaged by using "green" antifreeze instead of the "pink"."

Thats pretty funny. The lameness of some VW dealers really never ceases to amaze me. The fact that these EGR coolers are failing at very high rates on the 04 PD's had nothing to do with your EGR cooler failing (I just had mine replaced at 26K miles), but the green coolant must have ate holes through this stainless steel heat exchanger (puhleeeeeeeese). You really don't want to put anything but G-12 red antifreeze in your Jetta because there are o-rings, seals and other things that might have their life shortened by it, but the EGR cooler certainly is not one of those items. This dealer should be ashamed of themselves for even suggesting it.

pruzink · January 2006

The timing belt change interval on the differant year TDI's vary quite a bit. Some of the earlier models required a 40K belt change (but there were upgrade belt kits that could be used to go 80K); the newer models go 100K before a belt change. One thing that I would highly recomend when you do your belt is changing everything that is driven or turns off of that belt including the water pump, tensioner and idler pulleys. If any of these items fail before your next timing belt, the odds are that they can take out your new timing belt and engine with it. Be aware that there are also certain stretch bolts on your engine mounts that cannot be reused when the TB is replaced also. TDI engines are interferance engines, if the timing belt breaks, or does not get replaced correctly it can easily cause the entire engine to get destroyed. I would suggest reading up on the subject at TDI club so you are more knowlegeable about what you really want done and while you are at it there are club members in some cities that can either do it themselves or recomend garages that will get it done right. Most cars today are all non-interferance engines, if you make a mistake changing the TB, or if a component like an idler roller fails 30K miles after the belt is changed its not that bad to correct the problem. This is not the case with these engines.

sgaines · January 2006

This may sound like a stupid question but how do you change the oil from under the hood? I have been changing the oil in my TDI and have never changed the oil plug, I just use an O ring and it seems to work well. But I do agree taking the fastners off is a pain. If there is an easy way I DO want to hear this and will try it.

bpeebles · January 2006

Basically, you suck the oil out thru the dipstick tube.

There are many oil-changing units available to do this. (Boats with "inboard" engines have no other choice... one does not drill a hole in the bottom of the boat to change the oil ;-) )

This is the Oil Changer which I use (got on sale for about 30 bucks)

Here is another example.

Also, you can use the oil-sucker to get the puddled oil out of the oil-filter housing too.

You can also used my oil-sucker to change differentail fluid, power-steering fluid , brake fluid and other fluids which have no drain.

mbg4778 · February 2006

Sounds to me like your fuel filter is in need of replacement. Have you had it replaced recently? The symptoms are consistent with those of a clogged fuel filter. I had this problem in a 2001 Golf TDI (which I no longer own, sadly), and it had the exact same symptoms, with the exception of the exhaust smell (not sure where that's coming from). I hope that helps!

tac2 · February 2006

Hi,new guy here. My 2002 TDI won't start after I shut it off. On four occasions I had just started the engine, it had run for only about one minute. I shut it off to go back in the house , came out to start again and it wouldn't. It would turnover but not start. Had to wait about 30 minutes to start it. Any suggestions? Thanx

bpeebles · February 2006

Dont start a diesel engine if you are not going to drive it.

By starting the engine then turning it off, you are confusing the onboard computer so much that it has troubles calculating the correct startup injection quantities.

You MAY be able to improve the situation by having your IQ checked. (Injection Quality) Also make sure all 4 of the glowplugs are functinoal.

sandman52 · February 2006

I purchased a Pela 6000 oil extractor as recommended on the TDI Club maintenance video, and used it to do the first oil change on my new 05.5 Jetta at just under 5000 miles, and used ELF 5W-40 505.01 oil and Mann filter.

I think the info on the video, and from the TDI club web site is correct that you can get more of the old oil out of the engine by placing the suction tube down into the oil cooler when the oil filter is removed. That oil doesn't come out by just letting the oil drain from the drain plug.

However, since I was installing the TDI Heater at the same time, and had the plastic skid plate removed anyway, just out of curiosity, I decided to remove the drain plug to see if there was any oil left in the pan.

After I had drained all the oil I could with the oil extractor, by putting it down both the dip stick tube, and the oil cooler body, I was surprised to get nearly 3/4 of a quart more out of the pan despite having made very sure the extractor tip was bottomed out in the pan through the dip stick tube.

Since I have 6ft deep grease pit in my garage that I can drive the car over to work on it, I didn't find taking the plastic skid plate off that big an inconvieniance. Getting that much more dirty oil out makes it worth the effort, so in the future I think I will use the drain plug to drain most of the oil, and the extractor to get out what remains in the oil cooler.

That was my observation. Now here is my question. Why does the drain plug need to be replaced after being removed? I wasn't aware of this, and put back the same plug I took out. I drove the car for about 15 minutes with the skid plate off then pulled back into garage and checked for coolant leaks from my TDI Heater installation, but also checked for oil leaks from the plug, and filter housing, and found none.

Thanks for any enlightening info you can provide.

:confuse:

pruzink · February 2006

I don't think that I have seen the oil change video doing on TDI club but I don't think they would tell you to replace the oil plug other than to reinstall it. I thinks its a good idea to replace the oil plug gasket every couple of changes but the oil plug itself should really never need to be replaced unless you decide to put in one of the plugs with a magnet on the end. I have an 04 PD TDI Jetta and I do both types of oil changes. At some point (particularly if you drive the car in the winter where it snows) you might want to consider replacing your plastic skid plate with an aluminum skid plate (there are a few options available to protect your pan if this applies to the 05's). I know on the 04 Jettas, the oil pan is aluminum and that plastic skid plate will not stop a chunk of frozen slush falling off of a truck wheel well from ripping up the plastic skid plate and putting a hole in your oil pan. I'm not sure if VW has gone back to a steel oil pan in the newer models. The other thing that you need to be carefull about with the aluminum oil pans is stripping the threads on the pan when you do the oil changes from underneath (I installed a Fumoto valve on my daughter's car to prevent this). I do a bottom side oil change for about every 2 or 3 topside changes. I also have found that no matter how hard I try to get it all out from the topside method, that I can usually get about 3/4 liter more out doing it from underneath (I just don't like having to remove my skid plate unless there are other things that I will be doing also). As far as the oil on these cars looking black and dirty, don't worry about that, someone at TDI club did an experiment and changed the oil 3 times in a row only running the engine long enough in between oil changes to flush it out and the oil after the last change still turned black immediately. I know that based on the wealth of data from used oil analysis at TDI club that the 10K oil change interval is quite adequate, so I just bump up my oil change interval to about 7,500 miles to compensate for that 3/4 liter that I don't get out when I do the topside extraction. If you want more peace of mind with your decisions, get set up to send a sample out for analysis when you do your change.

ruking1 · February 2006

Other folks have done essentially the same thing and gotten little to no residual.

I would suspect that truly while it might be "distressing" in fact it is not a big deal.

I say that because if you look at the "dry" fill vs the oil change, the math indicates some oil is indeed left, i.e., you CAN NOT get all the oil out unless you dismantle the engine etc!!

Point two. the owners manual describes a dipstick measuring procedure. What it does indicated is that the "correct" oil level will show different on the dipstick during the correct procedure parameters than measured "overnight" Overnight will measure of course higher than normal.

I hope this is clear. If not fire your questions away.

Elf and Mann stuff are good products!!

As for the "crush" washers, they recommend new ones each time to serve as a reference points, for who knows when a used washer will lose its holding abiity and let the oil leak?

bpeebles · February 2006

The reason that VW recommends REPLACING the oil-plug is because the gasket (crush washer) does not come off of the plug...thus, the entire assembly must be replaced to get a new one. (Since it is designed to "crush" when used, it should never be reused.)

As for the skidplate, one can chose either STEEL or ALUMINIUM. Obviously the steel is stronger... but is also heavier. Adding a skidplate makes the already-low clearance even worse.

Also, one needs to consider replacing the plastic SIDESKIRTS when installing a skidplate.

Here are some links to various skidplate options;
http://www.dieselgeek.com/skidplate.php
http://members.porchlight.ca/benad/skidplate.htm

drm2 · February 2006

This is my first post to the forum. I just bought a 2006 TDI and am very confused about the brand of oil to use in it. I know it must be a full synthetic oil that meets prescribed VW standards. Could someone out there tell me (in layman's language) which Castrol or Mobil product I should purchase? Thanks in adavance.

sandman52 · February 2006

Thanks for the useful info on the crush washer, I'll have to get a supply of plugs I guess.

Unfortunately the metal skid plates aren't shown as being available for the New Jetta's yet.

sandman52 · February 2006

The 505.01 designation required to meet VW's standards is not readily available at your local automotive parts stores ( at least not in rural northern Minnesota ).

If you do a Google search for 505.01 motor oil, you will come up with a number of brands (Elf, Motul, Pentosynth, Amzoil, Castrol, etc.), and online sources.

Hope this helps.

drm2 · February 2006

Thanks, Sandman. I ordered Elf this afternoon from tdiparts.

pruzink · February 2006

It is really important that you use the correct oil in the engines as the PD (pump deuse: unit injectors) injectors develop about 29,000 psi of pressure and there is a lot of sheer stress on the motor oil between the cams and the injectors. You can buy Castrol 505.01 oil from any VW dealer. You can buy Elf 505.01 from "www.elfusa.com", a new supplier just started selling it on Ebay. Currently "www.tdiparts.com" has 506.01 oil on sale at $13.50/liter (the 506.01 exceeds the 505.01 oil). You can get Motul 505.01 from "www.worldimpex.com". All of these sites are good sites that cater to TDIs.

wrightflyer · February 2006

Does anyone know how long it takes for VW to get their DriverGear updated? I want Stainless Exaust Tips for my 06 TDI and the VW people are no help on a timeline. Any ideas?

cosmo · February 2006

This is another resource for metal skid plates to replace the OEM plastic belly pans.

http://www.evolutionimport.com/Volkswagen_Skid_Plates_s/17.htm

I'd appreciate any shared wisdom based on actual experience with metal skid plates on a Jetta or Passat. (Toureg's excluded for obvious reasons.)

hagedorn · February 2006

I am a used car owner, and the previous owner took the car to the dealership and has no idea how to do the oil change. Since I have owned the car, I have gotten an oil change 3 times, but I really dont want to spend 96$ to get the oil changed every time. And since I drive quite a bit because i am a commuting student, i need to get the oil changed more frequently. I decided to buy the oil and filter myself, which cost quite a bit less, but I cant seem to find someone who knows how to do VOLKSWAGEN oil changes to show me how to do it. I need help. Please and thank you.

VW Jetta TDI

Comments

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles