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I received a call from the adjustor in the afternoon, and he told me the only damage was to the front panel, and drivers door, nothing else could be wrong, and he was quoting $1200. I immediately asked questions about the suspension, alignment, etc, to which he said that couldn't of happened as it was a side impact, and not a front end collision. My mom just 2 months ago was in a side impact collision, and her car was totaled, so I knew this was BS. And for him to state nothing else could of happened is absurd, as the car was pushed sideways, an unnatural movement, 2 feet. I told him I would not accept this, and would get back in touch.
I immediately called the Honda dealer, and they said they thought more damage was done, but couldn't do anything unless I got a new battery, which I told them to go ahead and do at my cost. Just talking about the impact, Honda stated I at least would need 2 new tires, if not 4, and an alignment, which at cheapest would be $300 for 2 new tires and alignment (adjustor said only the panels could be damaged, YEA RIGHT!). I then called the auto body shop and told them the ordeal, and when I brought up how the door falls down when opening, he said the frame could of been bent (which the adjustor told me a) this car doesn't have a frame, it has a unibody (which is the same thing in a way), and b) that it might just need new hinges). The auto body shop was shocked, as they are the first to admit, they don't know how much damage there is until disassemble.
I let both Honda and the body shop know, my fear was that the car is a 97, 15 years old, and I knew it wouldn't take much to get up to a price where the insurance would just total the car, and I don't want anyone to waste their time on the car if that was the case. I kept trying to pry the adjustor to tell me what if more damage came then $1200, and he made it seem like I'd be on my own. I'm glad I didn't accept his claim, and will be hearing back from Honda and the Body shop on Tuesday for their estimates, then will be getting in touch with his boss.
Does anyone have any suggestions on how I should deal with this. I feel as if it's completely absurd that I'm having to fight this hard, when I did nothing wrong at all. I've never been in a car accident (knock on wood), yet my car now has...any advice would be appreciated.
However be aware that in some states it may be difficult to insure salvage title.
Also decision to total the car is based of the value of car plus overhead (car rental + fees) + how much can an insurance company get if you they part the car out.
Last two can be as high as 40% (this number is insurance co. dependent).
So if to fix the car > 60% of the value = Total the car.
IF your 4runner is valued at 25K ~ 30K
and if cost of fixing is >60% = 15K ~ 18K they may decide to total the car.
You may want to negotiate with the body shop to keep the cost below the "TOTAL VALUE"...They may be willing because bodyshop will not get any business if car gets totalled...unless body shop is in used parts business.
So choose your bodyshop carefully.
Who wants an almost new car with $10K of body work?
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While the front part of the Jeep appears untouched, the entire rear axel of the truck was broken and one of my tires was completely detached. There is significant damage to the back side and underneath the truck. Everyone who had seen the truck had told me it was beyond repairs and that I should insist on a new vehicle, as I would no longer want this one.
The driver who had hit the truck only had 25k worth of insurance to cover the damages to my car, another car and a fence which he had struck. For this reason, I had to go through my own insurance company, and after sending an assessor to look at my vehicle, they are telling me they can have it repaired.
Has anyone ever been involved in a similar situation? How was it handled? I really would like to insist on the vehicle being replaced by my insurance company, instead of being repaired, as I feel it would no longer be the same. Once the insurance company begins repairs, I'm afraid I'll be stuck with this vehicle which I do not want. Can anyone offer any advice?
Unfortunately, you have no say in this matter. Insurance companies have guidelines that they follow. And if the max threshhold is not reached, they will not total the vehicle.
Another consideration is that if they total the vehicle, depending on the type of policy you have, they may simply pay off the amount owed, and leave you with nothing. This is number 1 reason not to put large sums of money as a downpayment on a leased vehicle. Once it is totaled, you may get nothing.
If I were you, I would read the insurance coverage documents that they sent you in the mail when you signed up and read them very carefully. If you have the type of policy that only covers the amount owed on the vehicle, then you are SOL, since you will be without a car, and your $7,000 downpayment is down the drain.
If you do indeed have that type of coverage, it is in your best interest to have the vehicle repaired, drive it out the duration of the lease, and then simply walk away from it. And start saving money for a downpayment on the next vehicle now, since you will have nothing at the end of the lease.
Anyways, although the value was maybe $1000, I had many new parts, new carpet, and modified it to mount BMW Z3 leather seats. The damage I had was two dented in front fenders, bend front bumper, broken front lights, and a dented door. The adjuster cut me a check for $3500 and I got to keep my truck (not totaled).
It cost me maybe a couple hundred in parts both new and some from the wrecking yard.
So for now on I'm looking for the next idiot that is too preoccupied with their cell phone to look in a mirror to change lanes, screw up their insurance rating and throw me a few extra bucks. LoL
These "adjusters" are not your friend. They work for the insurance company and they want to save them money, or they may be out of a job. For example; if your car is worth $20k, they'll probably offer you $15.5k. Which you may see as more than fair. Your happy and the rep is happy for saving money for their employers.
Case in point (2000 BMW 528i): I recently had a friend that had someone run into his car, and they deemed it a total loss. The first rep offered about $9k, but then he went to his agent and got $800 more. Needless to say we found a replacement BMW a year newer (2001 530i), lower mileage, and very good condition. He's even happier with the colors vs his previous car.
kbb private party - good condition is 8.3
costco ameriprise insurance wants to pay 8.2
if you try searching the van you cant find it below 10k
i only had <70k miles on the van
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2015 Subaru Outback 3.6R / 2014 MINI Countryman S ALL4