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Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
I'll try to help, but you really should buy a manual. A dealer can order one or you can check eBay.
Also, if I hold down the gas to about 5,000 RPMs and try to keep it down to 6,000 RPMs it makes a clanking noise and the check engine light comes on. As soon as I let off the gas the noise stops and the light goes out. What could this be?
It could be severa things. You need to read the CEL code to know for sure.
There is also a beeping noise that comes on every so often. It is 3 soft beeps then it goes away and its fine. What is this?
Does it only do it in cold weather? It could be the freeze warning.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
I suggest you purchase an E36 Bentley Manual and then do a google search for some of the popular BMW enthusiast forums.
There's a wealth of knowledge out there and your car can be inexpensive and reliable, but only if you educate yourself and are willing to turn some wrenches yourself.
(CEL = Check Engine Light) you use a code reader to get the fault code, which will tell you what your problem is (typically fuel, ignition, or exhaust related).
The light on the clock (OBC) is a $0.02 part that is a pain in the rear to replace since you have to at least partially remove the OBC from the console. The Bentley manual and enthusiast forums are going to be your friend for this type of stuff (which you can plan on dealing with on a routine basis).
Good Luck!
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
after waiting 7 years and playing with my acura/honda, i've finally found my dream e46 m3 that I can afford. bmw inspection was done prior to purchase. i need to replace the euro valve and the power steering hose asap according to the dealer's inspection suggestion.
does anyone know how easy or difficult it is to replace this parts? any special tools needed? are the hose press fitted or just tighten by clamps like a honda?
dealer wants over $1500 parts/labor. It shouldn't be that hard to replace it myself, should it?
any advice wil be appreciated. thanks! :confuse:
http://www.amazon.com/BMW-E46-Service-Manual-1999-2005/dp/0837612772
What's a euro valve?
Power steering hose is easy (usually) but $$$. BMW power steering hose prices, for the pressure side at least, are really expensive for a quality item. Return lines don't cost too much, maybe $40-60 bucks.
Likw Mr. Shiftright, I have no idea what a "euro valve" is- and I've wrenched on Bimmers since 1982. And yes the Bentley Manual is the best E46 service resource.
are the hose press fitted or just tighten by clamps like a honda?
Depends on the hose. If the hoses are leaking at the power steering fluid reservoir you can usually fix the problem by removing the crimped on clamps and replacing them with regular worm gear clamps. Other hoses have threaded fittings and if one of those is leaking you will have to either buy a new one from the dealer or else remove it and have a local heavy equipment shop make up a replacement. You may need a flange or crowfoot wrench to reach some of the PS fittings.
dealer wants over $1500 parts/labor
Join the BMW Car Club of America. That will get you discounts at lots of dealers and independent shops. Local chapter members can point you to the best places for parts and service; sometimes the hot tip is the local dealer, other times it isn't.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
Are they referring to the oil separator- part #1 as shown in this diagram?
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
It's function is the same as a PCV valve, only "improved" by German ingenuity!
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
Well....okay I guess.
Ironically, the GM piece of pipe also costs $113 - $3 for the pipe and $110 for retiree pension plans. :P
If you have sound DIY skills and follow the Bentley manual you shouldn't have a problem. And if you are a BMW Car Club member you have access to several technical advisors as well.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
if the oem e46 m3 compression is not too high for supercharger, shouldn't it handle a turbo set up at the same psi assuming the CFI flow rate is the same with same size injector, tuned fuel map..etc?
At any rate, they might be right. Turbos create more heat than SCers and also more 'surge' of power. SCers run cooler and offer a wider power band.
So I could see this argument being correct in principle, although I could also see how the engineering of the particular kit could change the reliability factors either way.
I guess it also depends on what PSI both these systems run at.
Bottom line is that ANY bolt on kit, SC or turbo, is going to reduce engine life ultimately. You don't get something for nothing. You can take 10% right off the top on either application IMO.
Any advice will be appreciated. Thanks!
Like I said in post #114, join BMW CCA. You will then have online and phone access to the club's technical advisors.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
I took my car in to the dealer for a recall (2002 M3) and they told me I need the euro valve and the power steering hose changed because they are both leaking. They quoted me $900 for the euro valve and $650 for for the power steering hose. I came across your thread after doing some research the the web. Did you fix the problem your self? If yes, was it hard to change out? Thanks for your help in advance.
Thanks in advance!
If it were me, I'd:
1. Find out all the problem areas by doing research
2. Buy the BEST M3 you can afford. No projects, no question marks, no salvage titles, no cars with zero service history, no cars titles from Louisiana, Alabama or New Hampshire.
3. Have the car meticulously inspected by an M3 specialist.
Doing all this, you've improved your odds 90%. Is all this a guarantee of a happy life? No, it isn't but you are WAY ahead of the average buyer.
Here, this will get you started!
http://edgemotorworks.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=25&Itemid=55- #cooliris
What you must keep in mind is that you need to service any BMW by the book. Cutting corners on maintenance will end up costing more in the end.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
Now I am driving my M3 cautiously until I get it fixed. This is where I'm stuck and need help I need to change the oil separator, part # 11-15-7-830-948 and the new O-ring. I purchase the Bentley repair manual and join the BMWCCA as recommended. However, the manual did not have any torque specification for installing a new oil separator. Some of the TSA that I have contacted from BMWCCA either couldn't help me or told me to call a dealership. I was not able to get the info from a local BMW dealer either. I have the parts and the diagram. I'm sure I know how to do it right if I have the torque spec so I don't over or under tigten. And I really don't want to spend over $800 in labor if I can do it myself. If anyone know the specification or know who I can speak to that can help me, I would appreciate the assistance.
The M3 is a bloated, understeering land barge compared to the 911.
You might try posting your question on some other M3 forums. I'd also recommend joining the Yahoo E46 M3 group. If all else fails, you can always go to the BMW NA Online Tech site and pay $30 for 24 hours of access.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
True enough, but I have to agree with fedlawman in that the 911 is more agile and involving, primarily due to its lighter weight and compact size. Don't take it as a knock on your M3, as it's a great car. Still, given the choice I'd also go with the 911- assuming I didn't need a usable rear seat...
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
Is the M3 worth $20,000 more than a Honda Accord V-6?
"There are so options to improve the M3 with extra $20,000 that can make the M3 out perform the carerra"
There are so many options to improve the Accord with the extra $20,000 that can make the Accord outperform the M3.
"the M3 performance spec is pretty comparable if you put them side to side."
BMW E46 M3 - 3415 lb curb weight; 107.5" wheelbase; 0-60 in 4.8 secs; 1/4 mile in 13.6 secs
Porsche 911 - 3075 lb curb weight; 92.5" wheelbase; 0-60 in 4.3 secs; 1/4 mile in 12.8 secs
No comparison. The M3 is a Grand Tourer - the 911 is a Sports Car
I can only guess that GMonkies has never driven a Porsche.
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/porsche-911-history37.htm
I have to admit I have only been a passenger in a porsche and have not had the opportunity as a driver yet. But I'm not here to knock down porsche or saying that the M3 is better, I'm just expressing my personal believe, "what is more car for the dollar". And to tell the truth, since porsche and bmw are both german built, rear wheel drive car dedicated to racing, It's not so insane to compare the 2. But comparing a front wheel drive Japanese built honda accord is probably more absurd. When I first started in the import scene 10 years ago, our goals were to spend less and yet still be able to spank a porsche, vette, viper..etc. And yes, I know kids out there that had a turbo civic/integra and out ran Ferrari and Lambo on the street. So Yes, I can spend $20,000 to rebuild the motor and put a turbo into an accord so it can outrun the M3 and the porsche turbo easily in 1/4 miles. But as a front wheel drive car, it can only get enough traction with drag slicks, not street tire. But drag slick cannot handle road course. Lastly, there are some road course that favors front wheel drive car and some that favors rear wheel drive car. So comparing front wheel and rear wheel drive is hardly a fair comparison. Comparing the M3 to the new G37 for example is a fair comparison cause they are both rear wheel drive so they can fairly compete on the same road track. Several magazines had compared the s2000 to the porsche boxster. Yes the S2000 requires more effort then the boxster. But the lap time and 1/4 mile time is very competitive. So is up to individual's opinion which is a better car for the $ and if it's worth the extra $. I don't think there is a right or wrong answer to this.
As a Honda lover my I've spent enough $ building several civic and integra for drag and road course to have been able to buy a new m3 cash. I am still able to admit that there are other car more for the money. As much as I hate domestic, Dodge neon SRT 4 is a lot more car for the $ to "ME" than the acura rsx type s. But that's just my opinion.
I was told once by a wise man, opinion is like Ahole and everyone's got one. With that said, I will step off my soap box now and stand by my believes while others can do the same.
:shades:
There's simply a lot more to a car than magazine test numbers for 0-60 MPH and 1/4 mile acceleration.
If driving the Porsche is like swimming in a crystal clear swimming pool, the BMW, by comparison, is like swimming in maple syrup.
For now, I'm just happy to finally own the m3. As a novice with BMW, I join the forum to seek advice on fixing the M3 myself to save some $. Not to insult anyone or pick a fight.
p.s. I manage to replace the oil seperator thanks to everyone's advice. No leak so far. But then again, the old one did not have any signs of leaks at the seals either. Is it possible that it was leaking internally causing the vaccum to suck up oil, instead of air only, to the intake and that's why the dealer strongly advice immediate replacement to prevent lost of oil?
Now my next task is to climb under the car and replace the power steering hose. Any advice of caution or tips to make the job easier?
I've come a long way as a shadetree mechanic since joining the BMW cult, but I don't know if I could have done the job you did.
Any advice?
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive