Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Petroleum or Synthetic oil for my pickup truck?

245

Comments

  • gotribe1gotribe1 Member Posts: 81
    I remember when I was young and dumb instead of old and cheap; I added STP to my 67 Mustang. I think it said on the can to pour it into the engine while the motor was running. That fan blew all of that crap all over the engine compartment! It was FUBAR big time. Now that I'm old and cheap, if it don't need it, its not goin'in there.
  • steve234steve234 Member Posts: 460
    That is about the best discription. It was about that consistancy, but not slick like oil. I always poured it into a hot engine and then idled it for a few minutes. I used to race a 72 Comet and was always looking for more power and reliability. Had all the then current hot mods, dual exhaust with crossover pipe, flex fan, Offy 360 manifold and the first of the electronic ignitions, a Hayes Magnapulse. It took me three sets of plugs before I found out they had failed to include regapping the plugs from .032 to .045 in the instructions.
  • adc100adc100 Member Posts: 1,521
    You are throwing away good money and possibly harming your vehicle in the process by not having the proper viscosity. Probably also losing milage. Swith to synthetic oils. It's a no brainer. I use Mobil 1
  • wilcoxwilcox Member Posts: 582
    There's a word we don't see much these days. Are all motor oils high detergent unless the label says otherwise?

    Is Mobile 1 high detergent?
  • amoraamora Member Posts: 204
    INHO if you plan to turn in/trade-up in 2-5 years go with the Pepboys ProLINE oil/filters, if you
    intend to keep vehicle 10-100 years go with the
    Mobil 1/filters...
  • pocahontaspocahontas Member Posts: 802
    this discussion (aka: Petroleum or Synthetic... That is the question) has been moved from the Archived Pickups folder to this board. Happy Motoring!

    Pocahontas
    Host
    Pickups Message Board
  • drof01drof01 Member Posts: 9
    I've used Mobil 1 for 11 years in my 1990 F150. My 2001 F250 requires 5W20. What do I do now.? Do any of the synthetics come in a 5W20?
  • axle59axle59 Member Posts: 28
    I used to have an '84 civic that got 32mpg. I started using synthetic and my mileage went up to 36mpg. Ever since that time I have used nothing but synthetic oil. I just bought a 2k1 nissan frontier and will be putting synthetic in it after the inital 3k oil change. As for the additives I reccomend using prolong. I had a buddy put it in his sentra and he drove all the way from Barstow to San Diego in the middle of the summer with no oil. Not on purpose he just failed to check his oil before he left. No engine damage at all. One more thing on synthetics. If you are gong to use on I would only use the Mobil 1. I used to use Castrol Syntec but I found out that they changed their formula last summer. They are now using a modified petroleum base instead of a true synthetic base. Mobil took them court over it and the judge upheld Castrol's end stating that a modified base can be called synthetic because it has been altered. Funny thing too is the modified stock only costs about half as much to make but Castrol is still selling it for $4.25 a quart.
  • maestro1maestro1 Member Posts: 2
    I have always had good luck with Valvoline. Does anyone know about, or has anyone had any experience with Valvoline's synthetic product? Just curious.
  • f250loverf250lover Member Posts: 5
    I just bought a 2001 F250 Crew 4WD with the V10. They recommend the 5W-20 oil, I can't find Mobil1
    in that viscosity! Auto Zone had no oils AT ALL of that type!!!! HELP! I am sure I can substitute 5W-30 in Mobil1, but am worried my gas mileage will get worse than the 12mpg I now get?
    HELP!
  • erikheikererikheiker Member Posts: 230
    I've never heard of 5W20. Check your oil cap or the owner's manual. My guess is that Ford recommends 5W30, but I'm not a Ford man, so I can't say for sure.
  • davids1davids1 Member Posts: 411
    While yer-at-it, make sure yer running about 15 psi air pressure in yer tarz. Ford has always got to be different?? Go figure? Just don't make sense!
  • f250loverf250lover Member Posts: 5
    Oil cap and manual recommend 5W20! Very weird...
    I will probably use Mobile1 5W30 synthetic.

    If I could figure out where to E-Mail a Ford engineer about this I would!
  • z71billz71bill Member Posts: 1,986
    I am not 100% sure about this - can't even recall where I heard it - so take it or leave it.

    If you run lighter weight oil (5w20 VS 5w30) you will get a small increase in MPG. I heard Ford uses the 5w20 oil to improve MPG. Maybe someone who has used both oils can speak up.

    I know when I use 10w30 in my Silverado (instead of 5w30) it lowers my mileage by almost 1 MPG - I plan to stick with the 5w30 per the owners manual
  • mactheknife1mactheknife1 Member Posts: 6
    I have used Amsoil synthetics and their filters for over 11 years and would never consider anything else. Before I ever tried Amsoil I used Slick 50 in an '87 Merc Sable that had an electronic dashboard with a fuel economy computer built in. I was using Castrol 10W-40 and Fram filters. I was driving about 23,000 miles/year and was looking for an increase in gas mileage. The Slick 50 increased the milage from 25.9 mpg to about 26.5 mpg for the first 1,000 miles only. The milage dropped to about 26.0 mpg after that. The Slick 50 was $40/qt so I called Slick 50 to ask what happened. Their answer was that it works better in some car than in others. Needless to say I asked for my money back. Check out a site that did some research on Slick 50 type additives. Bottom line is a good motor oil doesn't need help. (Note the date here 1992.) http://www.bmwscruz.com/tech/tech003.html


    About 5 months later I decided to try Amsoil's motor oil (10W-40) and filter. Gas mileage up to 27.0 mpg and did not drop. That's a 4% increase. So I tried Amsoil's auotmatic transmission fluid and it went up to 28.3 mpg, another 4% boost. I did not have any problems with leaving the oil in for 23,000 miles either.

    The oil got dark but I had itchecked out with a company called Oil Analyzers, Inc.


    Check out this site for an interseting, pretty much non-scientific look at oil filters. http://members.nbci.com/minimopar/oilfilters.html

  • podchevyownerpodchevyowner Member Posts: 6
    I have a 2001 2500 HD with the 8.1 with 900 miles on it. I changed the oil to Mobil 1 5W-30 at 700 miles. Now when I start it up cold the engine has a knocking sound, like a diesel (lifters?). It also has very high oil pressure, approx. 65 PSI when cold and at hwy speeds. Both the noise and the oil pressure seem to go away after about 5 minutes and the engine warms up. The oil pressure at idleafter warm up is approx. 45 PSI. I have written to Chevy and talked to the local dealer and they have been more than useless. Has anyone else experienced these symptoms.
  • podchevyownerpodchevyowner Member Posts: 6
    I have a 2001 2500 HD with the 8.1 with 900 miles on it. I changed to Mobil 1 5W-30 at 700 miles. Now when I start it up cold, the engine has a knocking sound, like a diesel (lifters?). It also has very high oil pressure, approx. 65 PSI when cold and at hwy speeds. Both the noise and the oil pressure seem to go away after about 5 minutes and the engine warms up. The oil pressure at idle after warm up is approx. 45 PSI. I have written to Chevy and talked to the local dealer and they have been more than useless. Has anyone else experienced these symptoms.
  • minikinminikin Member Posts: 389
    kind of oil filter did you use?
    -- Don
  • arubawindarubawind Member Posts: 1
    I believe Amsoil may have one available in this weight. They carry a pretty wide selection. I've used their 5w30 in a 93 ranger and it performed great. Increased fuel mileage too. I put over 300,000 miles on that truck without any mechanical problems. I also used their Synthetic trans. fluid and rearend gear lube.
  • tkenny53tkenny53 Member Posts: 41
    Amsoil carries it, try www.koollube.com
  • bobistheoilguybobistheoilguy Member Posts: 270
    first, chev's have an inherent bottom end knock when first starting, i believe if i understand it correctly they are using a different type of coated bearing. now, if your noise is valve train tapping during startup then i'd suggest to replace your filter. filters have a one way check valve which if they get dirt stuck in it or if your using a fram type filters (the worst for this problem) then you'll experience this. the oil will drain back down thus when you first start it, the pump has to pump it back up,whereas it normally would be sitting up there already.

    as for the 5w20 issue on fords, they are using a sequence IIIe twice the normal for ensuring they have a quaility oil, which they don't want you to run anything more than just that. the big reason is CAFE, "corporate average fuel economy". the lighter the oil the less resistance giving you a better fuel effeciency. in honda's they state that if you don't have 5w20 you can substitute with 5w30. but to change back asap.

    lets understand, the difference between 5w20 and 5w30 is they both start out as a 5w oil, with viscosity improvers put in that when it gets to a 100deg C. the oil will take on the charateristics of a 20 or 30w. when the oil gets into what is known as a shear zone, the oil will shear back to a 5w in those areas and lubricate the same in either case. so if you cannot find a 5w20 suitable for your needs and 5w30 will suffice.

    hope that sheds some light on the subject.

    bob in jville fl.
    www.bobistheoilguy.com
  • modvptnlmodvptnl Member Posts: 1,352
    The 5-20 recommendation for the V10's would have no bearing on CAFE since the trucks they are installed in are exempt.

    I've been told that the clearances are tighter on the motors negating the need for higher viscosity. Besides, with all the auto companies scrambling to squeeze every last mpg for CAFE, wouldn't they all just say run the lighter oil???
  • tc93tc93 Member Posts: 19
    To my knowledge, currently Amsoil is the only synthetic 5W20 available to the man on the street. Mobil and all the others will soon have theirs out there, too. Pennzoil and the Motorcraft brand oil are currently available 5W20 conventional oils.

    My 2001 Civic owners manual says to use 5W20, and if 5W20 isn't available then 5W30 is acceptable, but to change back to the 5W20 "at the next oil change." It doesn't say to change back ASAP, but at the next oil change. The Honda recommended oil change intervals for "normal service" is 12 mos or 10,000 miles. Hmmm, what does that tell you? It tells me that the 5W20 recommendation is only to increase the CAFE ratings, not because of any changes to internal engine tolerances, etc.

    That's my $.02 worth.
  • modvptnlmodvptnl Member Posts: 1,352
    Why does that tell you it's for CAFE????? Once you own your vehicle, the manufacturers could care less what MPG you're getting(as far as CAFE is concerned)

    Again I'll repeat, The V10's at 8800+ GVW don't even have CAFE #'s.
  • tc93tc93 Member Posts: 19
    I think the reason the auto manufacturers are concerned about the CAFE is the fees they have to pay to the EPA, or some other federal agency, based on the CAFE numbers of the vehicles they manufacture - similar to the gas guzzler tax imposed on some vehicles. I THINK that's correct. It would seem, as modvptnl suggested, the manufacturers could care less about the MPG your vehicle is getting once the buyer signs on the dotted line.

    Are you sure the manufacturer of the V10's in the 8800+ GVW vehicles recommend the 5W20 in those vehicles? I don't know. Further, are you sure those vehciles don't enter into the CAFE "calculation?" I don't know that either.
  • modvptnlmodvptnl Member Posts: 1,352
    Not only does the V10 Ford ( which I have owned 2)recommend 5-20 but please visit ANY big 2 + dodge dealership and witness why the trucks which are over 8800 GVW HAVE NO EPA FUEL ESTIMATES on the maroney(sp?) sticker.

    I was also told on my '97 Cobra (4.6 DOHC 4 valve 7000 RPM motor that shares its heritage with the V10)by the dealer not to run over 30 wt. because of the smaller oil passages and tighter clearances. I mistakingly ran 5-50 on the Cobra's first oil change. The car received 2 oil changes in its first 1200 miles if for nothing but peace of mind.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Not having problems reading the number on the can are we? hehe
  • tc93tc93 Member Posts: 19
    modvptnl - What do the owner's manuals for the big trucks say about what to do when/if 5W20 isn't available? Are the instructions similar to that of the Honda?
  • modvptnlmodvptnl Member Posts: 1,352
    Actually it was trouble reading the owners manual!! I used to think the wider the range in oil, the better. Realize now it's just more additives to the base stock that widens the gap. Sort of like stubborn people that use premium fuel when their vehicle runs fine on regular, thinking their getting some magical increase in performance. LOL!!

    tc, the owners guide states;

    "SAE 5W-20 engine oil is recommended. Only use oils "Certified for gasoline engines" by the American Petrol............."

    Goes on to say not to use additives.....

    No mention of an alternate wt. oil.
  • frey44frey44 Member Posts: 230
    use petroleum and change it, with a good Fram or similar filter, often (every 3K or even SOONER if a lot of city cycle driving). buy the cheap stuff and run your vehicle 250 000 miles. UNLESS i live in a VERY COLD place, i wouldn't spend the money on 4 dollar per quart synthetic. you'd be better off spending the extra money on ExxonMobil stock ! they are the ones who are profitting from synthetics !
  • modvptnlmodvptnl Member Posts: 1,352
    Fram may be the worst filter out there!!!!


    http://members.nbci.com/minimopar/oilfilters.html

  • lake5lake5 Member Posts: 56
    ha ha, so are you still using premium? and you drive a truck?
  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Member Posts: 9,372
    As you see, a LOT of stuff had to be deleted. If you don't have anything to say on the topic, don't post. If the ONLY thing you're going to do it go after another user, don't post. If someone does post something that rubs you the wrong way do NOT retailiate.

    This nonsense needs to stop NOW.




    PF Flyer

    Host

    Pickups & News & Views Message Boards

  • oldharryoldharry Member Posts: 413
    on the oil additives, and I have seen that before linked from another topic. The teflon additives probably do more harm than good. As the site said, iron in the oil increased after adding the stuff. A slightly worn engine has less friction than a new one, so the additive may have just advanced the engine from the beginning of its life to the middle where it ahs less friction, but still doesn't leak compression. My brother in law is a petroleum chemist, his specialty was turbine and jet engine lubrication, but when I asked him about teflon additives he said he'd ask the internal combustion people at the lab. He said that they told him :

    Cylinder walls are made of cast metal because it is porous and soaks up oil that then feeds back to the surface if some small spot get missed by splash during one or more strokes. Polymer powders in suspension in the oil clog up these pores, and accellerate wear on the rings.

    Individual's experiences may report different results, but I'll take the words of lubrication experts, and not put that stuff in my engines.

    Harry
  • fltrsei2fltrsei2 Member Posts: 9
    I put Mobil 1 in my YXL and it also measures @65 PSI. I put Mobil 1 5W30 in my 85 350 Vette after installing a blower and the PSI was regularly @65 PSI. If anything at least you know the oil is getting pushed around to the top of the engine where everyone with the 8.1 (including me in my 3/4 YXL) is complaining about lifter noise. I think there is a oil quantity problem with this engine at various times of operation. After a 3000 mile highway trip trailering (after second oil change with Mobil 1 that was not done at the dealership), I decide to checked the oil after backing the truck out of the garage the next morning. It read down at least 2 quarts. I put in a quart, ran it, and measured it. Suddenly the oil measured as though I put in 2 quarts. Another strange thaing happened at the dealership at the first oil change when the mechanic came out and said out the blue that the engine takes 8 quarts of oil. The manual say 6.5 quarts. Does he know something that GM is not telling us?
  • modvptnlmodvptnl Member Posts: 1,352
    Just got back from Checker Auto parts today and bought Castrol GTX 5W-20. It was not on sale but @ $1.77 a quart it's still cheaper than the dealers Motorcraft. I will change it at every 3000 miles till Mobil comes out with a Synthetic 5w-20. Don't care for Amway oil er..Amsoil's marketing or price even though it is a great product.

    HAD to by a $10 filter though(K&N). It was either that or a Fram.
  • mgdvhmanmgdvhman Member Posts: 4,157
    dealer here says my 6.0 takes 6.5 quarts....book says 6. Both make it on the checkered range.

    There has been a problem with wrong dipsticks I read some place?..also heard that the 8.1 uses a quart a month?

    make me wonder about getting one....the cold start knock was something I had hoped to not get in the 8.1

    - Tim
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Tell me it isn't so....you got the cold knock?
  • mgdvhmanmgdvhman Member Posts: 4,157
    ...goes right away..

    Offered to replace the pistons....but I ain't letting nobody take apart my new engine when it's not doing any harm.

    - Tim
  • cowboyjohn1cowboyjohn1 Member Posts: 125
    Have about 1500 miles on my 8.1L since last oil change (Mobil 1). Can't hardly tell it has moved on the dipstick. No oil problems here.
    cowboyjohn
  • 4x4man4x4man Member Posts: 222
    I did run into a similar problem when checking my oil at the gas station the other day. When I checked it, it was showing about 3/4 low, not having any oil with me I didn't add any (thank god). Got home forgot about it, remembered the next morning and checked the oil before I had started the truck, oil was full!!! Not sure how long the oil takes to drain down to the pan, but it shocked the He** out of me.
    I haven't heard any cold knock either out of this thing....lucky maybe???
    Later

    Bob
  • minikinminikin Member Posts: 389
    Noticed this also. I'm used to just shutting the engine down, give it as long as it takes to fill the tank, and then check the oil. But my 5.3 seems to take a really long drain time to get a reasonably true oil reading.
    -- Don
  • bobsquatchbobsquatch Member Posts: 136
    Save the guesswork and ONLY check your oil level before you run your engine. Also, anywhere in the marked area of the dipstick is fine but a fanatic like me likes to keep it right to the max line. The only way to do this is by checking it cold. Do not exceed the full mark!!! This can do more damage than running a bit below the add mark.
  • mrurlmrurl Member Posts: 116
    Dipsticks vary. Change the oil, add 6 quarts, using half a quart to fill the filter, and the next morning check the dipstick. That will give you the exact full point.

    Peter
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    you forgot to tell him to mark the dipstick.
  • erikheikererikheiker Member Posts: 230
    When my 89 had 9000 miles on it I put in a quart of Slick 50 and switched over to Mobil 1. Over the years I used a couple of those Fram teflon oil filters. When I sold the truck earlier this year it had 111,000 miles on it and it still used no oil, and that was going 10,000 miles between oil changes during the last four or five years. I don't know if the teflon helped, but it sure didn't seem to hurt. I think it's how you treat your engine that has the most impact. I baby mine for the first few miles, until it gets up to operating temperature. As for my new truck, I made the decision to not use teflon products based on the potential to clog up oil channels. But I did switch to Mobil 1 when I did my first oil change. I had four thousand on that change when my "Change Engine Oil" message flashed on the message center. I checked the oil level before I changed it...still reading full.
  • minikinminikin Member Posts: 389
    message. I'm pretty much convinced whomever wrote the algorithm for that one owns a lot of oil company stock. GM's out there pitching 10K oil changes in the sales brochures and the light comes on at 3.5K to 4K miles under light duty conditions.
    -- Don
  • amoralesamorales Member Posts: 196
    UPF1218s since first change at 3,000 mi on my ole '00 C2500 5.7L. Change
    every 5K, magnetic drain plug is spotless, oil dark honey color at every change
    and dipstick is at full mark prior to change.

    97% freeway miles at avg speeds of 68-74 mph. Vehicle has 30K trouble free
    miles. Hope to keep 25 years or more. GM puts Mobil 1 in all 350 Vettes,
    if good enough for vette, should do fine for my lil pick-up
  • erikheikererikheiker Member Posts: 230
    One thing to do is to reset it every other time without changing the oil. That way you'll go 7000 to 8000 miles. For the first few years I may change mine every time, but as the truck gets older I'll start slipping the intervals, as you can see a few posts ago.
  • minikinminikin Member Posts: 389
    Here's a philosophical question for you -- Doesn't it become more rather than less important to change oil often as the engine gets older, builds up more crud, develops more blow-by, etc? Personally, I've stuck with 5K oil & filter changes for about the last 20 years for up to about 130K miles with pretty good luck.
    -- Don
This discussion has been closed.