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DODGE DAKOTA QUAD CAB

1192022242538

Comments

  • swampcollieswampcollie Member Posts: 87
    you have alleviated my mileage concerns..i can live with that... thing is, my dealer can only find one 5 speed in a 5 state area (im in missouri)... and it is not a color I want..
    learned today that if I join Farm Bureau, I get another $500 off. called FB and membership is $30... sounds like a good deal to me.. that is $2500 incentive so far..now if i could find a distant relative that works for DC and will get me in one of these friend and family programs..
    anyone have a nearby dealer with a lot full of 5 speeds?..
  • mopar67mopar67 Member Posts: 728
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    (mopar67) I have evaluated virtually EVERY ONE of the available packages that I could find for download.

    They each have strong points but one stood out as meeting my requirements the best. (I wanted to see reports and graphs of the MPG of each of my vehicles.)

    My favorate package is called "CAR CARE 2000" It seems to be the only one that offers graphing. It tracks repair history, replacement parts for each repair activity and even allows digital photos to be stored as part of the log. Multiple vehicles are supported too.

    Since my JOB is supporting software that tracks things for a large corporation. I feel that my assessment has more weight than other folks that are not involved in software development. I have seen what works (and what does not work)

    If anyone else has experience with Automobile tracking software, Please feel free to give mopar67 your assessment.
  • reed4reed4 Member Posts: 56
    I'm just a few weeks away from placing my order on a QC 4.7L 2WD. My debate is whether to go with the auto or the 5-Speed. I have previously owned two toyota PU trucks with 5 speed trannys and have always enjoyed them over vehicles with auto trannys. I have driven several QC's with auto trannys, however here in Southern Calif. 4.7's with 5-speeds are non-existant. Would love to get some input from owners with this configuration. Why you chose manual over auto, how smooth are the throws between gears, clutch engaugement and especially the "FUN" factor. Also, I'll frequently be pulling a twin jetski trailer (1500lbs. max) about 20 times per year and was wondering if going with the 3.92 instead of the 3.55 would be a good idea. I there much difference in fuel consumption?

    Thanks Much......Reed
  • dragonhawkdragonhawk Member Posts: 26
    Reed--

    I have a 4x4, 4.7 5-sp, 3.92 and would do the same if I had to do it over again. My wife really regrets not getting the auto, however. The good thing is that she stays with her car and I have exclusive use of the quad.

    It shifts well, though I admit I messed up on occasion early on (took me a while to nail the downshift from 5th to 4th). Definitely more fun to drive, IMHO. Being about $900 cheaper helped too, that savings alone pretty much paid for the RollnLock and Bed Rug.

    I don't think the 3.92 hurts mileage too much, based upon what others have posted in the past year. I usually get 17+ mpg, but am probably penalized more by the weight and resistance of the 4x4 drive train.
  • ritzoidritzoid Member Posts: 19
    Reed, I've got an '01 4.7/2wd/3.55 with the 5spd and love it. I've always driven a stick 'cause I like to stay involved while I'm driving. The clutch effort and pedal travel are quite reasonable. The shifter throw is longish, but it is a truck. Besides, I can always get the Hurst shifter ;) My normal mileage is around 18 mpg -- the high was 22. (My wife was driving and didn't feel compelled to pass everyone as I am wont to do.) Good luck with your choice. Steve
  • bookittybookitty Member Posts: 1,303
    Reed, we currently own 3 vehicles, all of them equipped with five speed manual transmissions. My 2000 Quad is 4X4, 4.7 and gives me great pleasure, mileage and service. In the northeast part of the U.S., vehicles are often called upon to operate in snow and ice conditions. An auto transmission is more difficult to control, especially when braking in low traction conditions (this is because it remains in gear and continues to pull. The other part is that I like manual transmissions over automatics. I have the 3.55 differential(s) and like the lower RPM that also delivers better MPG. For a 1500 pound payload, that should be more than sufficient. Unless you are constantly climbing long steep grades, I personally don't see the need or justification for the 3.92. Of course, that is only my subjective opinion. Whatever your choices, I wish you the best with your Dodge Dakota.

    Bookitty
  • txyank1txyank1 Member Posts: 1,010
    conditions, I too preferred the stick. The other thing I noticed was how having a louder exhaust was helpful because you can hear the change when you start to lose traction.
  • dskoczylasdskoczylas Member Posts: 22
    I have a 2001 quad with 4.7, 5 speed 392's. I find it a blast to drive. I also find with this setup that I hardly ever need to start out in 1st gear. Can also lug motor on hills down to nearly 1000 rpm and the 4.7 still pulls with no problem. Shifting is typical for a truck. I have noticed a clunking from the rear end when shifting from 2nd to 3rd, but dealer said it is normal. I don't know if any others with 5 speeds have noticed it. If I had to do it again, I would go with the 3.55's to rev a little lower at 65 on the highway. Also I have noticed when the AC is on and I am in 5th gear, I get a little bucking and surging when I take my foot off the gas, but that may be due to the 392's. I had a 98 Ram quad cab auto and hated the auto in that. It was always hunting for the right gear. That's why I went back to a stick with my Dak.
  • reed4reed4 Member Posts: 56
    Really appreciate the informative and CONVINCING replies! Do any of you have the HD Service Group?

    Reed
  • ford_biiford_bii Member Posts: 120
    I ordered the 5-speed in this truck blindly after only driving an automatic. I am completely satisfied with it. I hate automatics, and if you are a 'stick-man' then go ahead and grab the 5-speed, you won't be sorry.

    As for the 3.92s... I got the 3.55 rear, and it is ok, but if you don't care about gas mileage then go with the 3.92 and it will be even more peppy and fun to drive.

    Speaking of gas mileage, I have heard of very little difference between the two rears. Fact is, you're going to get between 14 and 19 with this truck (a little more if 2wd). Don't have any illusions that your truck will be different somehow and get better mileage. You are buying a V8, and you're going to get the mileage that a V8 brings. If you are going to do a lot of non-highway driving (and I don't mean stop-and-go city driving, but normal non-highway driving) you're going to get around 15/16 with this truck. If gas mileage is a huge concern, save yourself the trouble and don't buy this vehicle.

    I love my Quad but it sure is thirsty!

    On another note, I'm about an inch away from buying the Hurst shifter. Has anybody else gotten one since the buzz about them a month or so ago?
  • wpeng4wpeng4 Member Posts: 1
    I am going to order mine as soon as the rebate for 2002 is increased to $2000.
    4.7 quad, 2wd, 5sp 3.92. I test drove the 4.7 2wd auto, it feels much smoother
    than the R/T regular cab that I did on the same day. The acceleration is awesome.
    Many dakota enthusiastists said the 4.7, 5sp is actually faster than R/T.
    I was told by one of the dealers I went to that motorsport package is not gonna be
    available for 2002, anyone here heard the same story? I
  • steve234steve234 Member Posts: 460
    I have the auto and 3.92 and love it. I pull a 4500lb boat and the auto is best for that. However, if you are used to 5-spds and are not going to do heavy towing, go with the 5-spd. The gearing is academic. The 3.55 will do all you want. The 3.92 will give you a little more snap. If you can't live without the pleasure of performance, absolutely get the 3.92. Even assuming a 5% (extreme)mileage penalty, that is only $500 (est.) over 100k miles.
  • tuvtesttuvtest Member Posts: 237
    Reed-Since so many others have stepped up to convince you how good the 5-spd is, I'll just leave it that they speak for me as well. For your question on the HD service, I would recommend it, especially if you will be towing. To me it's always better to get the heavy duty gear when it's available, plus for what you get, it's really pretty cheap. Plus, since you are towing, I would also recommend getting the factory tow package (which includes the HD service) as opposed to a add-on hitch. I personally have more trust in a factory engineered option than Billy Bob and is one-size-fits-none tubing and crimp-connectors. (no offense to anyone named Billy Bob).

    Ford- I don't own the Hurst personally (yet) but another Dak owner in my car club had one in his and I have to admit it's a sweet shifter. His needed a bit of adjustment as it would just touch the dash on 3/5 upshifts, but the feeling of doing little more than twisting your wrist to change gears was nice. My problem is convincing myself I really need it after buying and chroming a factory shift rod and adding a Hurst T handle to it. No change in shifting, but it sure looks good.
  • reed4reed4 Member Posts: 56
    This is a $420. option from Dodge. Do any of you have this? Worth the $$$ or would my money be better spent in the aftermarket?

    Tire and Handling Group $420.00
    Stabilizer Bar € Rear
    Tires - P255/65R16 OWL All Season
    Wheels € 16"x8" Cast Aluminum

    Thanks......Reed
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    (reed4) Do not forget that this includes 5 full-size aluminum wheels and tires. (A real spare!)

    Although one COULD get all of this stuff in the aftermarket this price could not be matched. The 5 tires alone would cost this. (without wheels!)

    In fact, some folks buy this package anyway and plan on selling the tires/wheels to re-coup the cost of upgrading. (Should easilly get $400 for brand new tires/wheels) keep the rear antisway bar.
  • swampcollieswampcollie Member Posts: 87
    you have to replace the tires and wheels?
  • rjayrjay Member Posts: 15
    I'm in the market for a Quad, SLT-plu, leather, 4.7.

    Can anyone tell me what folks are paying compared to invoice these days?

    I've heard DOdge is offering a $2000 rebate on 2001 and a $1000 rebate on a 2002 order.

    Thanks for any info.
  • tjumptjump Member Posts: 14
    A few months ago me, my wife, and my Dak were involved in a "serious" altercation. I was cut-off by a motorist driving an old Toyota pickup (pre-Tacoma) - we ended up with my Dak t-boning her broadside at >45 Mph at impact. Her Toyo was totalled (2x360 spins and thrown 50+ feet laterally from original direction of travel. My Dak (with Manik guard) sustained "only" cosmetic damage. The front grille, guard, bumper, fenders, and hood were either replace or reworked. The only "internal" component affected was the radiator assembly, which was replaced. Neither the frame, suspension, nor engine were otherwise affected. Air bags did not deploy. I experienced trivial change of velocity and no change of direction on impact, and drove the Dak to work afterwards.

    Cost of repairs exceed $9000. I was amazed.

    Just another two data points - a) repair cost is obscene, b) I consider my truck one tough customer.

    PS: No problems or quirks noticed with the Dak since the repairs, BTW.
  • bobs5bobs5 Member Posts: 557
    Reed,
    I hate automatics with a passion so got the 5 sp.
    At the time of order there were no 5 speed in any of the dealers lots so bought on faith. It is a smooth shifter and the clutch is easy to operate.

    The truck has the 3.55 gears which is sufficient for my needs. If I had to tow a heavy trailer then would have gotton the 3.92. If snappier accelleration is needed, go with the 3.92. Probably a 1-2 mpg difference between the gear ratios. On STEEP inclines, I wish for the 3.92, but it pulls good anyway.

    T&H group.
    Like to have the bigger tires on trucks. A little more ground clearance for the camping trips. I had to replace 2 tires due to flats and them puppies are not cheap. Typically $140 each depending where you get them from.
    It is a good price for what comes with the package.
    Good luck,
    Bob
  • ahasherahasher Member Posts: 236
    of the T-bone without injury. However, one of your points got me concerned (after you said no injurys).. was that the air bags DID NOT deploy? at over 45 mph on impact.. ??? something sounds wrong there... a general question to all. what is the average mph to be triggered.. and if less than 45, WHY did they NOT deploy?
  • scoutxscoutx Member Posts: 10
    Y'all -

    Transfer Case. What's the difference between part-time and full-time shift-on-the-fly transfer cases? I have a 94 Dakota 4x4 with manual sotf, and it works fine for me. I'm leary of full-time electronic sotf -- i.e. a computer making decisions about when I'm in 2WD or 4WD...any opinions?

    Tires. Is the Tire & Handling Group a required option if you select 4WD? What does OWL stand for when referring to all-terrain tires?

    Anti-Spin Differential. Is this a must?

    Brakes. Do 4-wheel antilock brakes still imply discs on the front and drums on the rear?

    Thanks -
    ScoutX
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    (scoutx) To answer some of your questions about the different xfer cases.

    Fist off... the "shift on the fly" is the MANUAL xfer case. One can go from 2HI to 4HI while the vehicle is moving. I suspect you 94 Dak may have this already. (do you have to come to a complete stop before going from 2HI to 4HI or not?)

    The "FULL TIME" xfer case is NOT a fancy electronic unit... it is just a differential added to the xfer case. ALL mechanical 4WD! The only electronics about it are between the knob on the dashboard and the xfer case. YOU decide when to twist that knob.

    OWL on the tires is OUTLINED WHITE LETTERING.

    ANTI-SPIN diff... this is a LimitedSlipDifferential in the rear. It is not a "must" but makes a 4WD a true 3WD. (Because of the action of the front/rear open differentials a 4WD is actually a 2WD... adding LSD forces BOTH rear wheels to drive.)

    Brakes... The rear of the Dak is ALWAYS drums. (Drum brakes have better characteristics for a truck in the rear.)
  • saskquadsaskquad Member Posts: 24
    The T+H group is only $380 Can. for a 4x2 I wonder what the difference is I know when you order t+h on a 4x2 you don't get the fender flares that you do on the 4x4 . I had to order flares seperately , but I would really recommend them because the big tires actually stick out past the fenders, the truck also looks great with fat tires and flares.

    I have the auto and love it but if I was pulling a lot I would get the 5spd for sure. I just came back from a 2000 mile round trip with a 1500 lb trailer thru the mountains and the auto works pretty hard some hills it was down in 2nd gear and heating up pretty good. The 5spd would have handled it with little heat build up and less stress on the drivers nerves. I avg. 15 mpg round trip. That's 99 mpg downhill and 2 mpg. uphill. I have the 4.7 3.55.
  • ayrowayrow Member Posts: 99
    Hi everybody,


    As many of you know, I have done a few unique modifications to my QC. I have received a lot of questions on things like my sunroof and the bedliner and I always appreciate the compliments and input.


    I put some more pictures up with the new things I have added to my truck so you guys can check them out.


    One of the things added is a front brushguard. I can't decide if I like it or not and thought I would ask for your opinion on the matter. Please let me know what you think.


    You can find pics of the brush guard here:

    http://www.ayrow.com/brushguard.html


    All of the other mods are here:


    http://www.ayrow.com/truck.html


    Thanks,


    Ayrow

  • spike50spike50 Member Posts: 481
    dskoczylas - I have a '00 4.7, 4x4, 5 sp, 3.55 LSD, T/H Package that does clunk in 1st and 2nd gears when I get on or off the gas too quick or mis-handle my clutch duties in those same gears. There hasn't been any change in this since day-one so I've accepted it as normal.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    (spike50) Yup... I get the 'clunking' too.

    It is just 'slop' in the drivetrain. All of the mechanical connections between the engine and the rear wheels has some measure of backlash in it. This is pretty normal for a rear-wheel-drive.

    With the automatic xmission, this slop is usually taken up by inherant 'preloading' the drive components. Shifting from D-R-D will also shop this backlash with an automatic.
  • maringamaringa Member Posts: 36
    Noticed a new 2002 Dakota on a lot yesterday. From what I could tell, there was nothing unusual about it except that I noticed that Dodge listed the fuel economy of the the 2WD 4.7 liter engine at 15/20 which is a gallon better than last year. Also I think the hp of the engine gained 5 hp. Does anyone know for sure when they Dodge will be changing body style of the Dakota? According to truck trends - next year (2003). Also when the new hemi engines start coming out, I wonder if they will incorporate them to the Dakota line-up....I'm just trying to decide whether to buy one this year (2002) or wait until next year...
  • bobs5bobs5 Member Posts: 557
    I have it too. Been there since day 1. I just turn the stereo up to overide the sound. With proper engine rpm and clutch engagement/disengagement the sound can be pratically nullified. I find if I let the engine reduce in rpm before shifting, the clunk is at a minimum.
  • txqc2000txqc2000 Member Posts: 121
    The Dak QC is supposed to be due for an overhaul in 2003 model year by all accounts (magazines, dealer, Dakota websites, etc.).
  • rjayrjay Member Posts: 15
    I am about to order a new quad cab and need help
    deciding between full time AWD and Part Time 4WD.

    I assume that the gas mileage would be worse with full time AWD and that future repairs might be more costly as a result. Therefore I'm leaning toward the Part time 4WD. Won't really be towing anything, but I do live in the mountains (9000ft) so we get a lot of snow. Also think I'm leaning toward the 3.92 ratio axle for mountain driving.

    Anyone have any input on this issue??

    Thanks!
  • bookittybookitty Member Posts: 1,303
    Reed, I have never been an advocate of full time 4WD, and other than Quadratrac used in the Jeep, I cannot fathom why anyone would want it. At 9000 feet, you may need the extra grunt afforded by the 3.92 as there will be some power loss due to the breathing ability of the engine. You failed to mention which engine you were considering, but all of the engines would experience some minor power shortage at that altitude. You are correct that the full time 4WD will consume more fuel and could add extra cost if repairs were needed, but premature tire wear could also be a significant factor. This is only my personal opinion.

    Bookitty
  • marellano9324marellano9324 Member Posts: 1
    Hey folks, considering a buy on 2001 16x8's. Would just like to verify that there will be no problem placing on my 2000 slt with tow package.
    thanks in advance.
    makomako
  • rjayrjay Member Posts: 15
    I am about to order an 02 Quad Cab, 4.7, auto, whl pkg, and am deciding between the two axle ratios. I don't plan to haul or tow much, but I do live in the mountains (9000ft) and do a lot of mountain winter driving. I'm concerned about fuel economy but have read in earlier posts that there isn't much difference between the two (less than 1mpg) in that respect. I'm also considering the ltd slip diff. ANy input from this group is appreciated.

    Thanks
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    (marellano9324)
    Should bolt right up... Just make sure that the overall diameter of the tires does not change. Otherwise the onboard computer will need to be re-programmed to assure proper operation of the ABS system.
  • maceymacey Member Posts: 59
    This has been discussed many times in the past and I'm still confused on exactly how AWD works and what wheels are being driven with perfect traction and what wheels are being driven with bad traction...so, here we go again, I'm sure someone can verify the below: (sorry for asking again)

    AWD with perfect traction: only one rear wheel is driven, as there is no full time split of torque between front and rear, right? (if so, no extra tire wear?)

    AWD with perfect traction and limited-slip: Are both rear wheels ALWAYS provided torque full time?
    (If so, some extra tire wear but part-time 4WD with limited-slip would also have more tire wear?)

    AWD mode with bad traction: the wheel or wheels with the least traction, regardless of it being front or rear, get all the torque? It is possible in certain situations, for wheels on one axle to get the same amount of torque applied or even for all 4 wheels to get the same amount of torque?

    Ok, I've got AWD, from my experience in the rain, it's doing something right: pouring rain, red light turns green, right foot floors it, no wheel spin, a great launch, being thrown back into the seat...can a DAK in 2WD (or in just sloppy enough conditions that don't warrent 4WD) do this? Don't think so, hence to me, AWD is a benefit in regards traction and a sense of safety...re: wear and tear and/or replacing AWD parts, I'd be surprised if I keep the truck past it's standard warranty.

    Please correct me if I'm wrong or mislead re: anything above.

    Thanks...
  • namfflownamfflow Member Posts: 202
    I have both a 3.55 rear and a 3.92. (97 and 01 SLT CC) My personal opinion is get the 3.92 with LSD. It puts the engine in good power bands so you have good pickup in the hills and LSD pays for itself on any slick surface. 3.55 is good if you are always on the highway.
  • saskquadsaskquad Member Posts: 24
    Talking about more torque or less to individual wheels can be confusing but on a Dakota it's nothing fancy and there is no real magic to it .

    1. AWD has a diff. in the front axle a diff in the transfer case and a diff. in the rear (non lsd )
    this allows any 1 of four wheels to spin at a different speed then the rest. If one wheel is off the ground or on ice the other three wheels all get that same amount of force as applied to the the one with least traction. This is just like a hydraulic system where pressure is equal in all directions. An awd will spin a minimum of one wheel at one time

    2. Part time 4wd gets rid of the diff in the transfer case, this forces the front and rear driveshaft to have to turn at exactly the same speed. The force will be equal between the front two wheels. The force will be equal between the rear two wheels but if one front wheel is off the ground and spinning at least one of the rear wheels will have to turn also. This causes problems if the front and rear wheels are not all exactly the same size. The axle with the larger tires will have to spin (slip) in order to match the speed of the axle with the small tires . This would cause awful tire wear on dry pavement hence the name part time 4wd. Don't use it on dry pavement. A part time 4wd will spin a minumum of 2 wheels at one time.

    3. LSD. forces both rear tires to turn at roughly the same speed. If one tire is smaller than the other the larger tire will be forced to spin to match the speed of the other. A part time 4wd with lsd will spin a minimum of three wheels at one time even if one is off the ground.

    Clear as mud now, I hope this helps somewhat.
  • txqc2000txqc2000 Member Posts: 121
    I have a '00 QC with AWD. I generally love AWD vehicles and have had quite a bit of experience with different types of 4WD set-ups with my last 6 or so 4WD equipped vehicles. Those 4WD systems ranged from simple part time set ups to very sophisticated torque splitting systems.


    I have been very happy with the simple AWD system on the QC. However, if I were to do it again, I would probably opt for the 3.92 rear axle and part-time 4WD, partially to save gas (though going with the 3.92 may offset the fuel savings somewhat), but mostly to derive the utmost power and driving pleasure from my 5.9L engine. I particularly feel as if the AWD system is robbing me of power through the corners and off the line during dry conditions.

    I note that on a rainy day, I can floor it and I will not get any tirespin whatsoever. But one could just as easily engage the part-time 4WD on a rainy day and get the same results.


    Just my $0.02. Good luck on whatever you decide!


    '00 Quadcab SLT+ Garnet Red 4x4 (AWD) 5.9L 46RE 3.55 LSD. For list of modifications to my QC, see my profile:

    http://www.twistedbits.net/WWWProfile/dakota/Vof5jrNb0pR1M/


    For pictures of my QC & Accessories: http://www.geocities.com/txqc2000
  • ayrowayrow Member Posts: 99
    Ok, I am going to post this in a couple places in hopes that somebody out there knows the answer to this.


    I bought a nice car alarm for my truck which should arrive any day.

    It comes with a key fob that will take the place of my existing one and unlock and lock my existing automatic locks (no factory alarm).


    Here are my questions..


    1.) Does the 2001 QC have positive locks, or negative?

    2.) Where is the best/easiest place to tap into these wires to activate them?

    3.) What color are the wires?


    Thank you guys! I hope somebody out there has the answer so I don't have to go wire-hunting for hours.


    Ayrow


    http://www.ayrow.com/truck.html

  • tclemonstclemons Member Posts: 31
    I personally think it looks good. I don't have a truck -- yet (still in the lurking, looking, and BEGGING stage). Whatever I get may have to be used for car-pooling so I am definitely looking at the QC. Unfortunately, no matter what brand I purchase, I have to have an automatic -- my lovely and talented wife is a "left-foot-braker" thanks to my mother-in-law. I have tried repeatedly to teach her to drive a stick, but she refuses. Good thing she gives me an adequate allowance or I would trade her in. Yeah, right!
  • njdevilsnjdevils Member Posts: 2
    Hi guys & gals. I just visited my local dealer here in Philly. He had a left over 2001 Dak Quad Cab, 2x2, 4.7L Silver Motorsports edition. Very eye catching! I can get a good deal, but I'm a little worried that the truck would be a handful in the snow. Does anyone out there have experience with this truck in the snow? Should I just wait for better rebates and acquire a 2002?

    I also found a left over 2001 Dak QC 4x4, but it was a 3.9l V6 which felt very under powered. Granted I drive a 2000 Dodge Intrepid R/T daily, I didn't think the V6 Dak would be that sluggish.

    Thanks for any input!
  • eng6ineeng6ine Member Posts: 29
    Yo Philly, would not recommend the V6 with that size truck, way under powered. You live in Philly, so you do not get enough snow to warrant 4X4, waste of $$$$$$. But definately get the anti-slip rear for the occasional snow. I think I know what dealer you went to, #1 dodgeland, does that sound familiar? How about this, in beautiful Roxborough!, am I close? Just make sure you get what you want and nothing less, make them find the vehicle you want. Especially if you are pre-approved from your own bank with check in hand-----I would not recomend going with the check though-----you may end up with an impulse-buy, I would leave the check at home and go with your own bank or credit union(better rates) for the finance-----if you have to finance.
  • exocetexocet Member Posts: 1
    I just saw a new 2002 QC at my local dealer and notice the the HP ratings on the 4.7L are down to 230, was 235 last year. Torque remains unchanged. Also, the highway mileage rating for the 4x4, 5 speed are down to 18 MPG, it was 19 MPG last year. It's not encouraging when both the HP and MPG go down.
  • njdevilsnjdevils Member Posts: 2
    You are very perceptive. You from the area? I don't know if the truck has the anti-slip rear but I could add that later right?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    (exocet) These specification changes are due to the addition of the "Border state emmissions" Package" with its tripple-catalysts. Also some PCM re-programming that addresses idle and pinging concerns have bearing on this too.
  • iowabigguyiowabigguy Member Posts: 552
    You could add limited slip later however there are two reasons not to add it later instead of buying it now.
    1) Most dealerships can't set up a rear end properly. Your get improper meshing of the pinion/ring gear and resulting rear end whine.
    2) More important you will probably pay $500 or more for addon limited slip as opposed to factory $245 (what it was in 2000).
  • biglucybiglucy Member Posts: 140
    Hey Gang,

    Sorry for the prolonged absence . I took a trip to Bolivia for a few weeks and came home to find out that the Fiancee found a house in Hatboro for us to buy -there goes my truck accessory money!! See what happens when you leave the Woman alone for a few weeks?!? Work has been all consuming and I'm pulling in another Graduate class this semester . Big Lucy has been running great! At 8000 miles I FINALLY got a chance to get in a long test drive to the Adirondacks over Labor Day weekend for some great hiking. We burned up the NJ-NY highways, taking only 6 hours to get 380 miles from Philly to Keene Valley, NY. MPG was 20-21!!! EZ Pass Rules! I hope all is well with my good friends and new friends here on the board after a very long week.
  • mopar67mopar67 Member Posts: 728
    and you told me. Now I am wondering of there is a medium lucy?
  • txyank1txyank1 Member Posts: 1,010
    for a lot years with no posi-track rear end. Of course I didn' t have the horsepower that tday's pick-ups have. Still, I think if you put 300-400 lbs. in back and use common sense (no lead feet) I doubt you'd have any problem. BTW.....I drove my full sized x-cab 285 hp (5.3) Sierra to Ft. Worth over the weekend and got 20.9 mpg. (225 miles in 3.5 hrs) That's the main reason I shied away from a Dodge. The 4.7 is certainly an improvement, but they still need to do better on mpg. Do like that Dakota QC tough!
This discussion has been closed.