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DODGE DAKOTA QUAD CAB
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Comments
You'll find brake horror stories galore, almost incurable front end shimmys, piston slap, sqeaks n rattles, premature interior fabric wear and a heck of a lot of terrible Dealer service or non service, if you will.
BTW....This is NOT meant to start any kind of Dodge vs Toyota thing here, just relaying what the Toyota owners are alreay saying about their trucks.
That said, I still think they make a pretty good product, BUT they have NOT re-invented the wheel as some might have us believe.
One more thing... I have about 1500 miles before I change the oil so I was wondering what everybody's experience has been with this? Easy access to the filter, drain plug, etc? Thanks.
If you encounter the problem again, Your dealer should be able to connect a device to your truck that monitors all activity and "logs" any failures. (such as no-start condition)
The idea is that you drive around with this device connected to your truck for a week or so and then return to your dealer. The gathered information can then be "downloaded" to your dealers diagnostic computer and anaylized. Your data can even be fed to the "main office" for further diagnosis by engineers trained to do this kind of stuff.
A failing sensor, relay or solenoid should easilly be detected using this diagnostic method.
============
I know this sounds pretty HI-TECH but keep in mind that all Dodge dealers are supposed to have the diagnostic computer and training to do this.
(It is not a lack of TECHNOLOGY but an apparent hesitation to USE the available technology that all the Dodge dealers have at their disposal.)
I talked to mopar and they said they would
not be developing a chip. This sux because
the truck is sporty but is restricted to 100
mph. Now I don't drive around at or above
100 mph. But occasionally I might need to
exceed that limit. If anybody has heard of
some news on performance computer products
please let me know. oh by the way I have
25,000 miles on my truck and the only
complaint other than the lack of support
on the computer is the brakes squeak
occasionally.
1) Radio stays on with key out
2) Courtesy lights do not function when doors open
3) Lights on A/C control on when headlights are off, off when headlights are on
4) Cigarete/power adapter not functional when headlights are turned on, when turned off, they are functional. Eventually they stop working
5) Power door locks click at CTM, but no lock/unlock (Even with transmitter)
6) When you turn the key in between the Start and Off position, you can hear the blower motor make a whining type sound.
Anyways... Any ideas guys?
Thanks
william
I HAVE OWNED AND DESIGNED gm CARS AND TRUCK FOR THE PAST 18 YEARS., AND FRANKLY, I DON'T PLAN ON BUYING ANOTHER gm. BY FAIR, THIS IS BEST
4X4 I HAVE EVER HAD!!!!!IT IS A REAL PLEASURE TO DRIVE!!!
SO PLEASE, TAKE YOUR SALES PITCHES SOMEWHERE ELSE!
Love my QC... but like with this site.. I wouldnt go stand in a FORD dealership and complain about Ford products ( I own a 93 E150 conversion van) and how much better I like my QC ... my point is I also get tired of the complaints here about the Dakota and how brand X is soooo much better for one reason or another.
now: IMHO...The problems people experience are unfortunate of course, but also help the rest of us learn some technical info that will help with potential maintenance issues, but, for me anyway, with preventative maintenance, and understanding how this complicated engine/tranny actually work, and what aftermarket parts do or dont work, such as plugs, thermostats, brake parts, cold air intake mods and (mopar67.. thanks for the heads up.. I will follow the TB info closely)things like TB upgrades us shadetree mechanics would do.
Ok long post but had to add my .02 worth to agree with your post (1258)... Bill
THINGS THAT I HAVE DONE TO MY QC:ZIEBART UNDERCOATING, LINE-X BEDLINER, MOBIL 1 IN THE ENGINE, BOTH FRONT AND REAR DIFFERENTIALS AND THE TRANSFER CASE. I HAVE BEEN USING MOBIL1 SINCE 77...LOVE THE STUFF.
ALSO THANKS FOR YOUR SUPPORT FOR 1258.
CHRIS
Great forum you have here! I'm beginning my shopping for a Dakota quad cab, and I'm looking for opinions/advice about the engine combos. I'm leaning toward a 2wd 'cause I just don't see the need for 4wd here in suburban Maryland. Quick acceleration is important for me, so I need to decide which V8. The new(er) 4.7 is surely adequate, but what about the extra torque the bigger 5.9 can deliver? I'd like an automatic and I'm thinking the 3.92 rear will be more zippy than the 3.55. LSD is a must-have.
I'll look forward hearing from y'all!
BTW, I read someone's post mentioning a '5 star' dealership, where do you find the ratings for the dealers?
Thanks a lot!
Mike
Bookitty
no complaints. 4.7 acceleration has been great. My commute is on worst freeway in houston so mpg has been disappointing 13-14mpg.
Getting ready for first oil change. Can anyone give me insight to any paticular products ex: filters, oil ect....what is big advantage with using synthetic ?
Personally, I use purolator filters. I would stay away from Fram at all costs.
Your mileage will improve. 2 months you have had the truck; its just broken in! Give it time.
A few months ago, I posted a question here looking for grille inserts for the lower part of the front bumper. No one ever responded. So, I started surfing the web.
After searching thru several websites for a lower grille insert to protect my A/C condensor, I believe I finally found the right one. I ordered it today; should be here in @ 5 days. I'll keep everyone posted.
I found it @ grillcraft.com. Their price is $129.00. But, they are the manufacturer. They directed me to their distributor (MB Motorsports) in San Diego who sold it to me for $109.95 + $9.00 shipping. Saved a few bucks. Plus, they are very helpful and friendly.
The grille comes in silver or black. I got black b/c my upper grille is also black.
FYI: Grillcraft has detailed instructions on their website on how to install the grille. Looks simple enough. I like the Grillcraft b/c it seems to cover more area. The other makers' grilles leave small gaps on both sides of their grille; (ie. stones can deflect thru). Plus, most of the other makers' grilles snap on and/or are held in place by a sophisticated rubber band!
The Grillcraft has diamond-shaped holes instead of the horizontal bars. I prefer the horizontal bars; but, this setup will probably deflect more stones and/or debris.
I'll check back with a progress report.
Cheers!
Mike
I would also choose the 4.7L engine just for the new improved 5 speed auto transmission. The older transmission isn't a great one, either in function or reliability. I hear the new one is smoother shifting.
My '97 Ram was in the shop for the following in the nearly 3 years I leased it:
1. 24K - had to rebuild overdrive gear
2. 30K - had to fix leaky tranny pan
3. 24K - CD player died
4. 30K - Cd player died again
5. 30K - brake problems that Dodge dealers(3 of them) could not seem to diagnose or reproduce. Vehicle would sometimes (3 times at least) fail to stop quickly, pedal would go to floor, and truck would coast through intersections! Got rid of it right after that, after having Dodge inspect it for 3rd time and say it was fine.
Not perfect, but it never did leave me stranded. My biggest gripe would be mediocre dealer service, not the truck itself. One dealer put the brake pads on backwards, resulting in near total front brake failure! It had to be towed back.
2000 Toyota Tundra:. In 29,000 miles, the following problems have come up:
1. seatbelt retractor weak, replaced under warranty. A month later, it's weak again. Not worth another trip to fix.
2. 28K Oxygen sensor problem caused check engine light to come on. Part is on long-term back-order. Will require another visit to put it in when it arrives. Must be a common problem.
3. 24K brake light comes on. Fluid level slightly low(only maybe a mm or two below the line!), but rotors are also warped. Rotors turned and pads replaced at my cost. Rear drums also warped, but fixed under warranty and resurfaced at no charge.
4. Unlike my previous Toyotas with excellent paint, Tundra chips extremely easily.
Overall, a solid truck, but again, not perfect. I think the Toyota comes into its own only AFTER about 50,000 miles, when the Dodge products seem to have more serious problems with transmissions/brakes. But either is acceptable overall in my experience. The Dodge Ram safety problems were not acceptable, however.
If you've ever owned a German luxury brand, you'd consider fewer than 6 trips to the shop a year a great experience! And let's not talk about the $1,000 tire changes every year or so. Give me a simple truck any day. Anyone interested in a nice '98 BMW 540i 6 speed?
When I did vehicle repair anytime we got a complaint about the brake pedal going to the floor intermittently, we replaced the master cylinder. We never had a customer come back for the same complaint, either. Master cylinders can be intermittent, especially in cold weather.
We like our Toyota Avalon, but when we're over to the dealership I always notice a lot of Tundra's in for service then anything else. Lot's of brake and drive line problems according to our tech. The O2 sensors don't live too long, either. Watch out for severe engine sludging problems after 50,000. We're having that problem with ours.
Good luck,
Dusty
The Super Duty may be cheaper than you think, too.
that Dodge is the only manufacture that hasn't
fixed this safety issue? You can put the truck
in gear (auto) without pressing the brake pedal!!
I think this was a serious safety issue that has
been addressed by others. Of course I won't leave
my truck running with the pet dog or a child in
my truck, but there's is always someone that will
and has done that!! Try it, from Park to R or D
and don't press the brake!!! Be careful!!!
If you didn't know this, you do now.
I own a 2001 Dakota Quad. I love my truck!
mick
hot coffee in you lap at a drive thru,,,,,,,,
Just something to think about,,,,,,,,,,
mick
Goes with my constant observations to the wife of adults letting kids wander all over the vehicle as they drive.. I saw just yesterday a kid STANDING in the front seat drinking a Mc****ds soda. That parent should have been arrested for child endangerment!!!
Well just my .02 worth..
Oh yeah. another safety comment... my rear 2000 QC doors can ONLY be opened after MANUALLY unlocking.. Where the front has the standard handle pull unlocks setup. Great safety for the rear if u have the need.. but I now have older kids or adults but I CANNOT disable this feature.. an annoying thing now but I live with it. better safe that sorry I guess...
When I can keep my foot out of it I've gotten 19-20 MPG on the open road. My problem is if the traffic is open this truck cruise's at 70-80 real well and still gets 16-18 MPG depending on level or hills. Still running original brakes and clutch, live in San Diego Ca. and travel to Grand Junction Co. and Wa. state. So have been over some pretty good climb's.
One thing that I wasn't happy with was rearend whine at 40,000 mi's, Dealer rebuilt with all new gears and bearing's. Started whining again at 70,000 Dealer rblt again and I found out the Mechanic that had done the work the first time had fired for poor workmanship 2 month's after first rbld. No problems since.
I've had Toyota's (car's & trk's)& Nissan's ( 2trks) and had more problems with them then the Dodge veh's I've owned. So I'm a firm believer in LUCK!!!!!!! 2 Dodge trk's over 200,000 mi. 4 cars over 100,000 mi.
Sorry for the long post!!!!
Lee
Insurance companies are just like car dealers. They compete for business. Don't like your new rate? Get some quotes from some other's. If no reputable company can beat it, at least you have peace of mind.
Has anybody in this forum heard of anything coming out or allready on the market. In my searches I did find a jet plug in module but does not negate the 100 mph. limitation. Hey guys I enjoy reading the posts, it is very informative and I like to hear what other people are doing to the quad cab to make it even better.
I have a 2001 4.7 auto 2wd 3.55 lsd tire and handling Sport. It starts to spasm at 97 mph.
I am happy with the trans so far operating ok right down to -35 F(yes thats 35 below 0 ) .Takes about 6 miles at 65 before it goes into full lockup at that temp.Yes it's a little chilly here this week.
You'll have to take out your PCM to them for the flash, they told me it was a 2 day turn around time and cost $349 US.
I always put a shell on my trucks, so the regular cab will be fine. I'll have storage in the back.
I always advise friends to take test drives in any vehicle they may be considering, it's surprising how many people change their minds after they actually drive the vehicle that they thought was "perfect" before the test drive.
My brake light fuse blew this weekend and I was riding aorund without brake lights for who knows how long--until the lady that almost rear-ended me came up to my window and told me I didn't have any F%^&*( brake lights.
No problemo--go to parts store and get new one--NOT! No part stores carry the fuses that are under the hood of your Dak--dealer only! I'm talking about my 2001 QC. I suggest everyone go buy and extra one or two at the dealer in each amperage since you can't buy them in a parts store. They're about 4 bucks each. Maybe DC could use some of that hellatious profit and fix the frigging brake problems on these trucks.
I'm ready to trade this truck in for a Kia Sedona.
PS, I would avoid the V6 and go with the 4.7 V8
2001 4.7L 2wd auto quadcab t&h LSD Intense blue Sport